[Elecraft] kat2 tuner

2005-02-02 Thread earl baillley
Professionally assembled, new,  complete with cover and speaker the 20 watt 
auto tuner Never used as switched to a 100 watt tuner for the K 2

Or, suggestion for a waterproof box to outdoor mount and control the KAT2 from 
100 ft away an  ancient Hy Gain Hy Tower.

Offers, please

Earl W7TK   Hansville WA
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[Elecraft] Proper resistance for Q7 collector

2005-02-02 Thread Neal Campbell and Sarah Ferrell
I am progressing through debugging the bad resistance reading between 
ground and the collector of Q7 on the RF board. I have it up to 900 
ohms now. The manual says '500' is a passing resistance. What is 
'normal'? Is 900 ohms a sign that all is well?


73 de Neal

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[Elecraft] SO2R

2005-02-02 Thread William E. Twaddell

SO2R must only befor the young and agile!!!
Uus older guys have enough trouble with one rig Hi Hi.
73
Bill
N2DH

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[Elecraft] SO2R setup

2005-02-02 Thread Neal Campbell and Sarah Ferrell
Its an obvious direction that 2 K2s (KK4?) would be a great, 
desktop-friendly SO2R setup. Anyone with recommendations on the best 
way to do this (or to simulate the 2 RX/1TX capability of the 7800, 
Orion, FTDX9000)?


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Re: [Elecraft] SO2R setup

2005-02-02 Thread Larry Phipps
N1MM logger has a nice SO2R implementation for 2 radios. It supports 
7800, Orion and K2 via Kenwood protocol. It's also free if you want to 
try it.


Larry N8LP


Neal Campbell and Sarah Ferrell wrote:

Its an obvious direction that 2 K2s (KK4?) would be a great, 
desktop-friendly SO2R setup. Anyone with recommendations on the best 
way to do this (or to simulate the 2 RX/1TX capability of the 7800, 
Orion, FTDX9000)?


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Re: [Elecraft] SO2R setup

2005-02-02 Thread ab7r
I used a TopTen DX Doubler to interface the PTT and mic audio between the two 
rigs.  Works fine.

Greg
AB7R


-- Original message -- 

 N1MM logger has a nice SO2R implementation for 2 radios. It supports 
 7800, Orion and K2 via Kenwood protocol. It's also free if you want to 
 try it. 
 
 Larry N8LP 
 
 
 Neal Campbell and Sarah Ferrell wrote: 
 
  Its an obvious direction that 2 K2s (KK4?) would be a great, 
  desktop-friendly SO2R setup. Anyone with recommendations on the best 
  way to do this (or to simulate the 2 RX/1TX capability of the 7800, 
  Orion, FTDX9000)? 
  
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RE: [Elecraft] SO2R setup

2005-02-02 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Just as a reminder to those of you who are contemplating SO2R operation with
the K2 - the stock K2 cannot properly use PTT for steering between the
transceivers when in CW mode because the PTT line is the same as the DOT
input.  If the SO2R enabled program steer CW by switching the keying, things
will work fine, but I believe there are some that key both rigs and depend
on the PTT routing to select the proper transceiver.  I am investigating the
methods used by various programs right now.

There is a 'cure' - take a look at my 'PTT for CW' article on my website
www.qsl.net for the schematic.  The photos currently have my 'haywired'
prototype, but I am working on a dressed up version that I should have
completed in about 3 weeks.  No changes to the electrical operation, but a
much 'prettier' packaging arrangement.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]


 I used a TopTen DX Doubler to interface the PTT and mic audio
 between the two rigs.  Works fine.

 Greg
 AB7R





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[Elecraft] Re: Sounds Sweet Alternative

2005-02-02 Thread Robert C. Abell

Tom,

Suggest you look on the www.elecraft.com website under Tech Notes, SP2 
Companion External Speaker for the K2, by Dave White VE6DRW.
As one of  Dave's  Product Testers I highly recommend this speaker for 
your consideration. I intend building one myself sometime this winter.
Dave's design really improves the audio reproduction of the K2 for my 
partial deafness.


73, Bob  VE3XM
K2  S/N  02676
K2/100  S/N  04031
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RE: [Elecraft] Proper resistance for Q7 collector

2005-02-02 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Neal,

The exact reading depends on your particular DMM.  The only real way to tell
is to use your DMM on another K2 and compare (or find someone else using the
same DMM).
With my K2, I read about 600 ohms when I first apply the test leads and
climbs to about 1000 ohms after a time - then reversing the probes, the
reading starts out at 600 ohms again and climbs to about 3K ohms after a
time.

If you remove the control board, you should see a more steady reading - in
my case about 1k with the probes in one direction and about 3K in the other.
With the control board installed, the readings vary as above largely due to
C28 charging through R16.

Actually, your 900 ohm reading may be just fine, but be aware that it will
be meter dependent.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 I am progressing through debugging the bad resistance reading between
 ground and the collector of Q7 on the RF board. I have it up to 900
 ohms now. The manual says '500' is a passing resistance. What is
 'normal'? Is 900 ohms a sign that all is well?

 73 de Neal

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[Elecraft] 4570 on the air

2005-02-02 Thread R K Johnson
My thanks to a super Elecraft team - #4570 is up and running, and I
couldn't be more pleased.

The person who posted the suggestion to put parts on a piece paper
with tape has my gratitude - I had everything except the resistors
(and big parts) stuck to about 10 sheets of stiff paper, and it was so
easy to find parts, in addition to which it made the inventory
checkoff procedure easier.

I found the toroids to be bearable, but a little bit on the tedious
side for shaky hands. If fine stuff isn't your bag, I'm sure the
toroid guy's price is well worth it.

--
Bob
--
R K Johnson/W4MKO
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[Elecraft] K2 build time vs. K1

2005-02-02 Thread Craig Rairdin
I just finished K1 #1966. I hadn't touched a soldering gun since about 1972
when I built a Heathkit HW 16. The K1 took me just under 30 hours with the
4-band filter board and the ATU. I'm contemplating building a K2 (I'm
finding building is addictive -- they should call it Ele-crack) and I'm
curious about what kind of build time to expect. I'd be doing the 100W SSB
version with the external ATU.
 
Craig
WB0GUU
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 build time vs. K1

2005-02-02 Thread Andrea Borgia
On Wed, February 2, 2005 17:21, Craig Rairdin said:

 finding building is addictive -- they should call it Ele-crack) and I'm

LOOOL, that's why I'm building my KX1 one bit at a time and the last two
modules are slated for this sunday.

B73,
Andrea.

-- 
Homepage: http://andrea.borgia.bo.it /Amateur radio: IZ4FHT
A: Because it messes up the order in which people normally read text.
Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing?
A: Top-posting.
Q: What is the most annoying thing on usenet and in e-mail?


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RE: [Elecraft] Strange K2 Failure Mode

2005-02-02 Thread Jim Brown
On Mon, 31 Jan 2005 10:33:18 -0800, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

Re: Frequency readout.  Assuming you aren't in SPLIT mode (in which case you
should see the xmit frequency on the K2 when you transmit), I'd run CAL PLL
and see how it behaves. If the firmware has been changed without doing that,
all sorts of strange tuning behavior can occur.

Not split -- checked that first. Further tests showed that the problem is only 
on 40 
meters. Then tried CAL PLL on 40 meters, and got INFO 232. Tried it again on 30 
meters, INFO 232 again.   

Re: Noisy RF Gain. Sounds like an abused pot. 

I'll replace the pot.

Thanks for the detailed rundown on the shaft stiffness. 

Jim K9YC




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Re: [Elecraft] Strange K2 Failure Mode

2005-02-02 Thread Jim Brown
On Wed, 2 Feb 2005 18:02:43 +0100, Tom Arntzen wrote:

If the frequency counter cabel isn't connected to TP1 you will get 
the info 232 message.

Thanks. It WAS connected from the counter to TP1.

Jim 


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[Elecraft] K1 KBT1 option question

2005-02-02 Thread Michael Babineau

Can the KBT1 option be easily removed and the
original K1 top cover and speaker re-installed?
I would like to be able to easily switch back and forth.

I did have a KBT1 a while back but sold it without
installing it and I seem to recall the the battery pack was
to be hard-wired in.

Perhaps the addition of a small molex connector
or something like that would allow for easy removal?

Has anyone done this or something similar?

Michael VE3WMB

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Re: [Elecraft] SO2R setup

2005-02-02 Thread Hank Kohl K8DD

In CT, CTWin, NA contesting programs the PTT delay is
used to immediately key the radio (and amp, if used), delay
the keying from the program for a user defined time, send
the CW from the PC buffer and quickly drop the PTT. 
PTT delay will not work with the K2 because it is common

to the dit line, or it will key the radio to full power, depending
on how the keying is set up.

I'm not sure about N1MM WroteLog and TRLog, but I believe
they are the same.

I have a box with a couple relays and a transistor to use LPT1
pin 14 to switch the keying line, amp relay line and eventually
(when I get around to it) switch RX audio.

Probably by the time I'm done with my homebrew box I'll have
the price of a DX Doubler and then some in it!

73HankK8DD



W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote:


Just as a reminder to those of you who are contemplating SO2R operation with
the K2 - the stock K2 cannot properly use PTT for steering between the
transceivers when in CW mode because the PTT line is the same as the DOT
input.  If the SO2R enabled program steer CW by switching the keying, things
will work fine, but I believe there are some that key both rigs and depend
on the PTT routing to select the proper transceiver.  I am investigating the
methods used by various programs right now.

There is a 'cure' - take a look at my 'PTT for CW' article on my website
www.qsl.net for the schematic.  The photos currently have my 'haywired'
prototype, but I am working on a dressed up version that I should have
completed in about 3 weeks.  No changes to the electrical operation, but a
much 'prettier' packaging arrangement.

73,
Don W3FPR

 


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]


I used a TopTen DX Doubler to interface the PTT and mic audio
between the two rigs.  Works fine.

Greg
AB7R



   




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--


'Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their 
level then beat you  with experience.'   -anon 


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 KBT1 option question

2005-02-02 Thread Tony Wells

Hi Michael,

snip Perhaps the addition of a small molex connector or something like 
that would allow for easy removal?snip


I did just that with my K1. I found a small racing car type battery 
connector plug  socket and wired that in.


Regards

Tony
G7IGG 


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[Elecraft] Remoting the KPA100 without a KI02 in the K2

2005-02-02 Thread Sverre Holm
I now have my newly assembled KPA100 running in a separate EC2 enclosure
without a KIO2 in the K2.  For me it is a temporary solution until I get a
KIO2, but at least the setup described below actually works.


73

Sverre
LA3ZA
http://www.qsl.net/la3za/
 

-Original Message-
From: Sverre Holm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 8. desember 2004 12:09

 I am building a KPA100 and intend to remote this into a separate EC2 
 enclosure along with the KAT 100 My K2 does not have a K102 control 
 board.
 Can I do the remote installation using the K102 on the pa board ? The 
 notes I downloaded seemed to suggest that the k102 needs to be in the K2 .

I looked at this also, as I am in the process of building a KPA100 which I
intend to remote. I don't have the KIO2 in my K2.

When the KPA100 is in a separate enclosure, the RS232 interface in the
KPA100 will not work as it doesn't get the data in/out from the K2's
processor. Instead the KIO2 does the translation to RS232. Therefore,
without the KIO2, you can get the KPA100 to work remotely, but you will not
get an RS232 interface.

If all you want is to get the KPA100 to work, you will have to do the
following:

- Install an RS232 connector in the K2/QRP lid
- Connect GND to pin 5
- Connect AUXBUS to pin 6 (KIO2 has 15 uH in series and 0.001 uF to GND)
- Connect VRFDET to pin 7
- Connect 12V to pin 8
- Connect 8R to pin 9 (KIO2 has 3.9k in series)

These connections shall be taken from connector P4 (Aux I/O) on the K2's
control board. Alternatively, if the KAT2 is installed, all but 8R can be
taken from it.

I haven't tried this myself, but there shouldn't be too many uncertainties
in this. However, the cost/effort of getting an KIO2, is not that much
greater than doing the above, so I am still debating with myself whether it
is worth trying. 


73

Sverre
LA3ZA
http://www.qsl.net/la3za/
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 KBT1 option question

2005-02-02 Thread Sandy
My K1 originally had the KBT1.
I fitted a small two pin Molex plug/socket to the cable on the battery box to 
allow it to be removed easily.  Ultimately, I went back to the standard
cover, as the loudspeaker in the battery box cover didn't have enough
oomph, and the batteries were a royal pain in the arse to remove charge and
reinstall.  It was the only addition to the K1 I didn't like very 
much.
73,
Sandy W5TVW 
K1 #1178 
- Original Message - 
From: Michael Babineau [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 11:48 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 KBT1 option question


| Can the KBT1 option be easily removed and the
| original K1 top cover and speaker re-installed?
| I would like to be able to easily switch back and forth.
| 
| I did have a KBT1 a while back but sold it without
| installing it and I seem to recall the the battery pack was
| to be hard-wired in.
| 
| Perhaps the addition of a small molex connector
| or something like that would allow for easy removal?
| 
| Has anyone done this or something similar?
| 
| Michael VE3WMB
| 
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| 
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| 
| 
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 KBT1 option question

2005-02-02 Thread Sandy
Speaking of K1 battery packs.Checkout the 2 battery 12 volt SLA
battery pack and carrying case at Sportsman's Guide.  It's $41.95 and really
nice!  4.5 A/H with 120 vac charger and patch cable to charge it
via you auto cigarette lighter/accessory outlet!
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Tony Wells [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Michael Babineau [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 KBT1 option question


| Hi Michael,
| 
| snip Perhaps the addition of a small molex connector or something like 
| that would allow for easy removal?snip
| 
| I did just that with my K1. I found a small racing car type battery 
| connector plug  socket and wired that in.
| 
| Regards
| 
| Tony
| G7IGG 
| 
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| 
| 
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[Elecraft] KSB2 Question

2005-02-02 Thread Jeff Hetherington
Hello Everybody.

I've begun to look at my KSB2 kit.  The parts are inventoried and the board
is in the vise ...

My question is regarding the current Rev. F. as compared to my Rev. D.  I
noticed that some component values are different, but the board layout looks
the same.  I assume that the values have been optimized.

Is this an accurate assessment?  Can I simply change the values to the Rev F
values?  Should I just stick with the Rev D values that originally came in
my kit?

My firmware is Ver 1.04.

Thanks for the help.
73/72
  Jeff - VA3JFF
  K2 #3375
  KX1 #631
  Canadian QRP Award:  http://www3.sympatico.ca/wjhetherington/cqa.htm
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Re: [Elecraft] Proper resistance for Q7 collector

2005-02-02 Thread Neal Campbell and Sarah Ferrell
Well, just in case anyone searching the archives for hints on a similar 
situation, I had a solder bridge on the top of the RF board between the 
case of Q5 and the lead from R44 that fed from the bottom, just 
impossible to see without magnification, etc.  Probably no one will 
make the same mistake but just in case, thats what caused this one.


Neal
On Feb 2, 2005, at 10:30 AM, W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote:


Neal,

The exact reading depends on your particular DMM.  The only real way 
to tell
is to use your DMM on another K2 and compare (or find someone else 
using the

same DMM).
With my K2, I read about 600 ohms when I first apply the test leads and
climbs to about 1000 ohms after a time - then reversing the probes, the
reading starts out at 600 ohms again and climbs to about 3K ohms after 
a

time.

If you remove the control board, you should see a more steady reading 
- in
my case about 1k with the probes in one direction and about 3K in the 
other.
With the control board installed, the readings vary as above largely 
due to

C28 charging through R16.

Actually, your 900 ohm reading may be just fine, but be aware that it 
will

be meter dependent.

73,
Don W3FPR


-Original Message-

I am progressing through debugging the bad resistance reading between
ground and the collector of Q7 on the RF board. I have it up to 900
ohms now. The manual says '500' is a passing resistance. What is
'normal'? Is 900 ohms a sign that all is well?

73 de Neal

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Question

2005-02-02 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Off List Reply Follows - copied to the reflector

Hi Jeff.  I don't have the schematics in front of me but some of the crystal
filter capacitors were changed in the later revisions to widen the response
from about 2.1 KC (actually measured about 1.9 at 6 dB down points on mine)
to about 2.4 KC.  These caps are a part of the xtal lattice filter and are
identified on the schematic as  CA, CB, etc.

The old standard was the approximate 2.1 kc width and the new standard
is the 2.4 kc width (maybe it was 2.3 - something like that).

As I recall, a couple of other changes were made - a couple of resistors and
an electrolytic capacitor - and additionally, enhanced xtals were available
and still are as matched sets.

Just my 2 cents but I'd change the xtal lattice caps to the new values now
during initial construction.  Removing those caps is a real pain later -
this from experience as I've done it a total of 3 times to get various
widths.  All in all, the 2.4 width is very nice!  As for the matched xtal
set, I did change out mine and noticed no difference at all.  Others have
reported that it did make a big difference.  Hope that helps - 73 es have
fun --Don N4HH K2/100/KAT100 #2028, etc, etc


 My question is regarding the current Rev. F. as compared to my Rev. D.  I
 noticed that some component values are different, but the board layout
looks
 the same.  I assume that the values have been optimized.

 Is this an accurate assessment?  Can I simply change the values to the Rev
F
 values?  Should I just stick with the Rev D values that originally came in
 my kit?

   Jeff - VA3JFF
   K2 #3375
   KX1 #631
   Canadian QRP Award:  http://www3.sympatico.ca/wjhetherington/cqa.htm



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Re: [Elecraft] It Works, but Not Inst Message

2005-02-02 Thread Christian Adamec

Hello,

I would like to thank everyone for responding. Unfortunately, I still 
do not have this problem solved. Very frustrating! After some more 
poking around, here is what I can say about this. It only happens when 
I press 'Menu', not when pressing 'Display'. It is intermittent, 
although it happens more often than not. After pressing 'NB', it seems 
to go away for a while. I have checked all my soldering on each board. 
I could not find any solder bridges anywhere, nor any globs of solder 
not on a pad. I checked the direction of all diodes and the are all 
correct. H...


Thanks,
Chris KC9GSV

On Feb 1, 2005, at 11:21 PM, Dale Wiese wrote:


Chris,

It was a while back, but I think I had this same issue.  The problem 
turned out to be a diode installed backwards on the control board.


73,

Dale, N9XD


On Jan 31, 2005, at 5:43 PM, Christian Adamec wrote:


Hello,

Well, I got up to the power on test for K2 #4718 and it worked! Very 
exciting. Prior to this, the only electronics that I had built were 
Elecraft's noise generator and test oscilator, which I plan to use 
with the K2.


The issue, though, is that when I tap the menu button or the display 
button, not inst will flash for a second before the menu is 
displayed. All tests checked out after power up, except the keyer, 
since I don't have a paddle. Let me add that at this point, I am 
missing one pushbutton switch, S16, which I am waiting on a 
replacement for.


Is this message a problem or something to worry about? Like I said, 
everything seems to be working just fine, except for this message 
that flashes occaisionally. I couldn't find anything in the manual 
regarding this.


Thanks,
Chris KC9GSV

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RE: [Elecraft] SO2R setup

2005-02-02 Thread Gary Hembree
My solution for the K2 PTT problem in CW with CT and the Top Ten DX
Doubler: unplug the mic connectors!  It's worked fine for 4 years so far.
On the other hand I have only operated SO2R in CW contests at QRP and 100
watt levels so far (no external amps).  IARU and other mixed-mode contests
would require Don's solution.
73
Gary, N7IR

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RE: [Elecraft] SO2R setup

2005-02-02 Thread Gary Hembree
Thanks Ed for pointing out the ambiguity: I meant the K2 mic connectors.
The TTDXD interface connectors also carry headphone audio and keying
signals to the tranceivers.
73
Gary, N7IR


At 04:26 PM 2/2/05 -0500, you wrote:


gary:
Unplug which mike connectors - in K2 or ten ten dx doubler
Ed, AE4EC

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 KBT1 option question

2005-02-02 Thread Sandy
Whoops!  The price should read $14.95  My error in typing!

- Original Message - 
From: Sandy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Tony Wells [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Michael
Babineau [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 2:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 KBT1 option question


| Speaking of K1 battery packs.Checkout the 2 battery 12 volt SLA
| battery pack and carrying case at Sportsman's Guide.  It's $41.95 and really
| nice!  4.5 A/H with 120 vac charger and patch cable to charge it
| via you auto cigarette lighter/accessory outlet!
| 73,
| Sandy W5TVW
| - Original Message - 
| From: Tony Wells [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Michael Babineau [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 1:47 PM
| Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 KBT1 option question
|
|
| | Hi Michael,
| |
| | snip Perhaps the addition of a small molex connector or something like
| | that would allow for easy removal?snip
| |
| | I did just that with my K1. I found a small racing car type battery
| | connector plug  socket and wired that in.
| |
| | Regards
| |
| | Tony
| | G7IGG
| |
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| |
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|
|

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RE: [Elecraft] It Works, but Not Inst Message

2005-02-02 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Chris,

The 'not inst' message is normal when the NB or ANT1/2 bttons are tapped -
it is NOT normal for that message to appear when the MENU or DISPLAY buttons
are tapped or pressed.

First check the orientation of RP1 on the Front Panel board - the dot (or
stripe) on the R-PAK (RP1) must be at the pin 1 end (look for the round
solder pad at the pin 1 end - the rest are square pads).  After that, check
for any solder 'bridges' at the pins of RP1 and the pins of U2.  Also be
certain that RP1 is the correct value (100K - look for a  '104' somewhere
within the R-Pak labeling).  Check especially for shorts between pins 2 and
3 of RP1 and pins 4 and 5 of RP1 - a short between either or both of these
pins wouuld cause the symptoms you are reporting.

Since you say that it happens mainly when MENU is tapped, the short between
pins 2 and 3 are the most likely culprit - you may want to check this with
an ohmmeter.  If all is well, you should measure approximately 200k with one
probe on RP1 pin 2 and the other probe on RP1 pin 3 - if it is significantly
lower than 200k, you are on the path of the problem (short or high
resistance leakage path).

Bottom line - either something is shorted to something it should not be or
there is some sort of 'sneak path' reulting from incorrect orientation of
RP1. Refer to the schematic of the Front Panel for verification of my
analysis.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 I would like to thank everyone for responding. Unfortunately, I still
 do not have this problem solved. Very frustrating! After some more
 poking around, here is what I can say about this. It only happens when
 I press 'Menu', not when pressing 'Display'. It is intermittent,
 although it happens more often than not. After pressing 'NB', it seems
 to go away for a while. I have checked all my soldering on each board.
 I could not find any solder bridges anywhere, nor any globs of solder
 not on a pad. I checked the direction of all diodes and the are all
 correct. H...

 Thanks,
 Chris KC9GSV




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[Elecraft] 40 Trans alignment

2005-02-02 Thread Kevin Stover

Hi all.

I'm in the home stretch on K2 #4884.
Doing the 40m transmitter alignment.
The question I have is where should the max output be when adjusting L1 
and L2?
If I keep turning either one to the bottom of the can the PO goes up 
till I get a High Current warning. Should I stop at 2 Watts or go as 
high as possible without getting the warning?


Thanks.


--
R. Kevin Stover ACØH

Reclaim Your Inbox!
http://www.mozilla.org/products/thunderbird

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[Elecraft] K2 #4684 passes final test and alignment

2005-02-02 Thread Kevin Stover

Hello all.

#4684 has passed stage III test and alignment.
I'm getting anywhere from 10.2 to 10.4 W out on all bands when the K2 
power control is set for 10W. Now onto final assembly and installation 
of the KPA100, SSB adapter, and 160m adapter.


Thanks for all the help so far.

--
R. Kevin Stover ACØH

Reclaim Your Inbox!
http://www.mozilla.org/products/thunderbird

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[Elecraft] AGC setting - reality check please

2005-02-02 Thread nz7c
Hi folks -
After reviewing the reflector archives regarding AGC setting and volume I 
decided to set my AGC in the manner Don Wilhelm describes. I took a quiet band 
and adjusted R1 just down to the point where I hear no difference in the band 
when I turn the AGC off  and on.  I made sure that I went no further then I had 
to and checked all bands. AFTER that I looked at the voltage measured on U2 pin 
5 because I did not want the suggested 3.8v to cause me not to believe my ears 
- so to speak. The AGC is now set perfectly per Don's instructions and the 
voltage reading is 3.3v. Reality check -  that's a fair bit awy from 3.8 - is 
that acceptable or does it suggest something is wrong? Thanks you in advance.
73/Tim NZ7C

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[Elecraft] K2 a problem solved

2005-02-02 Thread Bill Scovell
A couple of weeks back I sought help for a problem encountered at the first 
stage of 40 Meter Transmitter alignment (Page 75).
The problem was uncontrollable output power.
Specifically:-
   Holding 'Tune' after requesting 2.0W output yielded a 'Hi 
Current' display and an indicated power of 19.1W.

Don / W3FPR came to my assistance explaining how the K2 compares requested 
power with detected power to develope the required signals to adjust the drive 
to get the output power to the requested level. With Don's guidance we explored 
all the circuitry associated with this process but found everything to be OK 
which led Don to the conclusion that the high output was resultinfg from 
spurious oscillation.

At this juncture Gary took over and the first issue was to determine whether 
the oscillation was inherent in the transmitter chain itself or a fault in the 
t-r switching circuitry. The answer to this question was provided by removing 
link W1, which immediately stopped the oscillation --- almost certainly the 
problem lay in the t-r circuitry --- a systematic 'trouble shoot' around 
Control Board Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4 and RF Board Q23 established that Q4 (2N7000) was 
the culprit.

Tiresome though it was for a while, the nice part of this exercise was that by 
taking it slowly and getting good advice from Don and Gary I was able to 
achieve a result without any unnecessary 'invasive surgery' --- I only had to 
'pull' one component, the faulty one --- left to my own devices I don't think 
the boards would have still looked as attractive as they do.   

A final word --- this is the second 2N7000 that has brought me undone on this 
build --- earlier on Q5 deprived me of sidetone for a while, obviously these 
mosfets are rather fragile devices --- whilst I did not use a mat during the 
build I did diligently wear a wrist band whilst assembling sensitive devices 
although at the time I thought that with our relative humidity being quite high 
that this was probably 'guilding the lily' --- I shall be more circumspect in 
the future.

With continuing appreciation of this reflector and particular thanks to Don and 
Gary I''ll stop chewing up bandwidth.

Bill Scovell / VK4SQ  
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