Re: [Elecraft] Transverter for 70cm?

2005-05-26 Thread Nanko
BTW, I think DEM plugs Elecraft as well and offers tips on interfacing 
Elecraft with their transverters.  I first heard about Elecraft while 
going throught he DEM website.  I thought who the heck is Elecraft, 
never heard of them but eventually I figured it out! 

Mark , George
Be carefull with the DEM EKT1 interface , is has no Vrfdet circuit.
K2 does not work well without it , ofcourse no power regulation with
the K2 power potmeter , but also CW sounds bad .
Better to use the original K60XV.

73  Nanko  PA0V
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[Elecraft] Elecraft Growth Metric

2005-05-26 Thread Mike Walkington
Hi All,

Sunspot count is low and I'm at a bit of a loose end. Latest version of QST
arrived.  Check the Elecraft advertisement - it has grown again. So my
question is: How long do you think it will be before Elecraft needs/has a
full page advertisement?

Mike
VK1KCK
K2 # 2599


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[Elecraft] antenna suggestions?

2005-05-26 Thread We5f
Brian:

If you have ANY metal nearby (e.g., railing), you could use the vise-grips 
mount and a hamstick, or better an Outbacker.  The mount is basically a set of 
pliers with a stud welded on the tip.  Using the Outbacker gives you the 
freedom to change bands simply by changing taps.

This portable antenna system is easy to set up and move, works well, and is 
relatively inconspicuous.  The great advantage is that it will be resonant on 
your operating frequency and not require a tuner.

73, Jim K5HO

-
Nunquam Secundum



  snip
So - any antenna suggestions? Preferably something inexpensive and easy
to build as I have almost no tools here. Some ideas I've been thinking
about are a random wire (using the tuner), a homebrew buddipole, perhaps
a magnetic loop to stick by the window, or a shortened vertical.

Brian, VE7NGR
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[Elecraft] KPA power out

2005-05-26 Thread Indy
Had never checked the power out for my KPA-100, so did so.  Took the KAT-100 
out of the chain for the test, using dummy load.  Startled by the results:

band  K2  KPA-100KPA-100  
   thru ATU no ATU
160 --- 10.7 -100 - 100
  80 --- 15.0 -100 - 100
  40 --- 14.1 -  90 -   90
  30 --- 14.2 -  80 -   80
  20 --- 14.5 -  50 -   50
  17 --- 14.4 -  60 -   60
  15 --- 14.5 -  60 -   60
  12 --- 14.1 -100 -   40
  10 --- 14.7 -100 -   25

Dunno what to make of it.

73

Fred
kt5x
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Re: [Elecraft] MH2 Microphone Discontinued

2005-05-26 Thread Don Brown
Hi

The TenTec handheld microphone works great with the K2. It comes with a 4 
pin connector that you will need to change to the 8 pin connector for the 
K2. This mike works fine with the 5.6K bias resistor from the 5 volt supply 
to the AF pin, just like the MH2.

I have also used the TenTec desk mike on the K2, however it really needs 8-9 
volts rather than the 5 volts provided by the K2. You can use the internal 9 
volt battery or jumper over to the 8 volt supply in the K2.

Don Brown

KD5NDB


- Original Message - 
From: Paul Saville [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2005 9:42 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] MH2 Microphone Discontinued


 The MH2 is now listed as discontinued. Will there be an Elecraft-branded 
 replacement for those who don't fancy pop star type microphones?

 73 Paul ZL3IN

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[Elecraft] PwrAntenna

2005-05-26 Thread john . brewer
 All this talk about 800W amps is interesting, however, due to oil prices
 the power company here has had to shove up the price per kWh to about 27c
 US.  I'll stick with more and better high level aluminium which sucks as
 well as blows.  Less potential TVI too.

Sometines it's really nice to have both!

John K5MO

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[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar May 28 - June 29, 2005

2005-05-26 Thread Ken Newman

~~
N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR
May 28 - June 29, 2005 
~~

CQWW WPX Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
May 28, z to May 29, 2400z
Rules: http://home.woh.rr.com/wpx/
~~
QRP ARCI Hoot Owl Sprint (CW) ... QRP Contest!
May 29, 2000z to 2400z
Rules: http://www.qrparci.org/contest.htm
~~
Michigan QRP Memorial Day Sprint (CW) ... QRP Contest!
May 29, 2300z to May 30, 0300z
Rules: http://www.qsl.net/miqrpclub/contest.html
~~
Wake-Up! QRP Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
Jun 4, 0400z to 0600z
Rules: http://ruqrp.narod.ru/index_e.html
~~
VK/trans-Tasman Contests (80M CW) ... QRP Category
Jun 4, 0800z to 1400z
Rules: http://home.iprimus.com.au/vktasman/RULES.HTM
~~
IARU Region 1 Fieldday (CW) ... QRP Category
Jun 4, 1500z to Jun 5, 1459z
Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/iarur1fd.htm

QRP TACtical Contest (CW/SSB/PSK) ... QRP Contest!
Jun 4, 1800z to 2359z
Rules: http://www.n3epa.org/Pages/TAC-Contest.htm

Adventure Radio Spartan Sprint (CW) ... QRP Contest!
Jun 7 , 0100z to 0300z  (First Monday 9 PM EDT)
Rules: http://www.arsqrp.com/

GACW WWSA CW DX Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Jun 11, 1500z to Jun 12, 1500z
Rules: http://gacw.no-ip.org/contest.html

ARRL June VHF QSO Party   QRP Portable Category
Jun 11, 1800z to Jun 13, 0300z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2005

NAQCC WEEKNIGHT 40/80-METER SLOW SPEED SPRINT (CW) ... QRP Contest!
Jun 15, 0030z to 0230z
Rules: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/sprint_0506.html

West Virginia QSO Party (SSB/CW)... QRP Category
Jun 18, 1600z to Jun 19, 0200z
Rules: http://www.qsl.net/wvarrl/wvqp.html

Quebec QSO Party (All) ... QRP Category
Jun 18, 1700z to Jun 19, 0300z
Rules: http://www.raqi.ca/qqp/regs.html

Run For The Bacon (CW) ... QRP Contest!
Jun 20, 0100z to 0300z
Rules: http://fpqrp.com

SP QRP Contest (CW) ... QRP Contest!
Jun 25, 1200z to Jun 26, 1200z
Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/spqrp.htm

Marconi Memorial Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Jun 25, 1400z to Jun 26, 1400z
Rules: http://www.qsl.net/ik6ptj/

ARRL Field Day (CW/SSB/RTTY)... QRP Category
Jun 25, 1800z to Jun 26, 2100z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2005

QRP ARCI Milliwatt Field Day (ALL)... QRP Contest!
Jun 25, 1800z to Jun 26, 2100z
Rules:  http://www.qrparci.org/contest.htm

QRP BARBERSHOP QUARTET CONTEST (CW QRP)... QRP Contest!
Jun 29, 9PM to 11PM EDT  
Rules: http://www.io.com/~n5fc/barbershop_contest.htm

~~~
Thanks to SM3CER, WA7BNM, N0AX(ARRL), WB3AAL and others 
for assistance in compiling this calendar. 


Please foreward the contest info you sponsor to [EMAIL PROTECTED] and
we will post it and give it more publicity.
Anyone may use this N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar for your website,
newsletter, e-mail list or other media as you choose.  
(Include a credit to the source of this material of course.)

72 de
Ken Newman - N2CQ 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

http://www.amqrp.org/contesting/contesting.html
http://www.n3epa.org/Pages/Contest/contest.htm



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[Elecraft] G3YCC missing files

2005-05-26 Thread Thom R LaCosta
It would seem that the G3YCC site and all of the memorial sites that several 
of us maintain are missing two filespitank.gif and ccsys.jpg


I beleive pitank.gif was hand drawn by G3YCC, it is referenced in the file
oxo.htm


ccsys.jpg may have been in the SPRAT issue referenced in the ccsys.html file

Controlled Charge System for Nicads

Rudi, DL2RM described his charger for nicad batteries in Sprat number 79. It 
incorporates a mains timer programmed as follows:


If anyone has eithr  graphic, I'd appreciate it to update the G3YCC memorial 
site at http://www.zerobeat.net/g3ycc/index.htm



Thanks

73,Thom-k3hrn
www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,
Free Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel
Elecraft Owners Database
www.tlchost.net/  Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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RE: [Elecraft] KPA power out

2005-05-26 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Fred KT5X wrote:

Took the KAT-100 out of the chain for the test, using dummy load.  Startled
by the results:

band  K2  KPA-100KPA-100  
   thru ATU no ATU
160 --- 10.7 -100 - 100
  80 --- 15.0 -100 - 100
  40 --- 14.1 -  90 -   90
  30 --- 14.2 -  80 -   80
  20 --- 14.5 -  50 -   50
  17 --- 14.4 -  60 -   60
  15 --- 14.5 -  60 -   60
  12 --- 14.1 -100 -   40
  10 --- 14.7 -100 -   25

Dunno what to make of it.

--

Something isn't right in both the KPA100 and ATU from the looks of it, Fred!


I can't speak to the ATU issue of poor efficiency on 10/12 meters since I
don't have a KAT100. The droop on 30-15 meters from the KPA100 suggests an
issue with the bandpass filters. The KPA100 typically exceeds 100 watts
output quite easily. The fact that yours doesn't suggests low supply voltage
or a measurement error that is showing a slightly low output across the
board. 

Suggest you look very closely at your bandpass filter components for the low
bands. The KPA100 manual also has a procedure for checking the bandpass
filters using an antenna analyzer, if you have access to one. 

Just for the record, here's what my K2/100 delivers at full power into a
dummy load:

160: 112 watts

 80: 108 watts

 60: 110 watts (legal limit on this band is 50 watts erp, of course)

 40: 112 watts

 30: 107 watts
 
 20: 105 watts

 18: 111 watts

 15: 106 watts

 12: 104 watts

 10: 106 watts at 28 MHz, 46 watts at 29.5 MHz

That roll-off at the upper limit of 10 meters is normal I believe. Of course
the difference between 100 watts and 112 watts in what another Ham will hear
on the air is completely insignificant, but it demonstrates that the KPA100
will meet the 100 watt transmit specification across the HF bands. 

Ron AC7AC 



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[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar Correction

2005-05-26 Thread Ken Newman

~~
QRP ARCI Hoot Owl Sprint (CW) ... QRP Contest!
May 29, 2000 to 2400 Local Time
Rules: http://www.qrparci.org/contest.htm
~~

Ken Newman
Woodbury, NJ
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] KPA800/1500 Power Question

2005-05-26 Thread Jim Harris
Well, just to complain a little the KPA800 was not
shown to the regular attendees at the Elecraft booth
at Dayton.  Darn, really wanted to eyeball it!!  I
hope my money is as good as that of the next guy.  I
was even considering how to squeeze it into my budget.

Now my real question.  Does anyone know what the AC
power requirements are for both models.  I'm bringing
more power into my shack this summer and it would be
great to know what power is required.  I've heard a
figure of 70+ percent efficiency but my thinking is
closer to 40-50 percent.

Thanks and have a great day!

Jim, AB0UK
K2 #4787



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[Elecraft] S/N 5000

2005-05-26 Thread Jeremiah McCarthy
Got it straight from the horse's ?--- S/N 5000 is going to Smithsonian... :-)

Jerry, wa2dkg
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[Elecraft] BL-1 and BL1-1 Balun Questions

2005-05-26 Thread David F. Reed

Greetings folks;

I started building the balun kit, and I am suffering a bit of confusion, 
that I hope to get some help straightening out here.


  1. In my ignorance, I cannot tell whether I am building a 4:1 or 1:1
 balun; though the included instruction sheets are almost the same
 (the BL1 refers to a Binocular Balun core - I assume the ferrite
 core with parallel holes, the BL1-1 does not in the parts lists,
 both refer to winding the balun.  They both refer to winding three
 turns around the balun core.

 So, ignoring the question of what I ordered for a minute, how do I
 tell which I am building?

  2. There seems to be no way to get three turns around the core with
 the wire length provided; the instructions show what appears as
 the wires starting on one side of the core, through, around so on,
 so that you end up with 3 windings visible around the outside edge
 of the core, starting at one side and finishing at the other.

 I seem to be only able to get 2 turns, leaving 1 on one side, and
 about 2 at the other, with the windings pressed fairly tightly to
 the core.

 If I take the prescribed 10 length, subtract the 1 off both
 ends, I am left with 8 with which to get the 3 turns, the
 circumference of which calculates for me to be 3*3 or 9...  (I
 am assuming each turn takes 1 through, about .5 to make the
 turn, another 1 around, and another .5 to make the turn to go
 in, making 3 per turn) -.5 because the last winding need not
 turn and another .5 because the first through need not turn
 either,  so 9 - 1, = 8, the remaining length, so it would seem
 to be in theory possible.

But in practice, I am failing to be able to perform this feat.  I am 
hoping there is some simple if you know it trick to get me rolling again.


Thanks in advance!

--Dave

--
David F. Reed  - W5SV - cell: 512 585-1057

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Re: [Elecraft] PwrAntenna

2005-05-26 Thread Paul Gates
I may be missing something but I had 2 homebrew amps running 813s, another 
one running 4-572B's by Dentron and recently since 1997 had a Ameritron 
AL80B till 2004. I sold all amps because I am satisfied with 100 watts from 
the Icom 706 and my QRP rigs. BUT, my point is I never noticed any increase 
in my utility bills!
Paul Gates
Elecraft K1 #231
XG1
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
An idle mind is the devil's workshop.
And the devil's name is Alzheimer's!


- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 10:22 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] PwrAntenna


  All this talk about 800W amps is interesting, however, due to oil prices
  the power company here has had to shove up the price per kWh to about 
  27c
  US.  I'll stick with more and better high level aluminium which sucks as
  well as blows.  Less potential TVI too.

 Sometines it's really nice to have both!

 John K5MO

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Re: [Elecraft] S/N 5000

2005-05-26 Thread David F. Reed

Jerry,

beauty is in the eye of the beholder and I think we all agree these 
are beautiful things, these K2s, don't we?


There is precedence for this in some of the industrial products that 
have joined the MOMA (the Museum of Modern Art) collection and been 
exhibited, right?  So how about a QRP station in the MOMA?  after all, 
at the Smithsonian (a fine institution, most particularly the Air  
Space Museum) we expect a lot of techno-geeks through, but at the MOMA 
we might get a wider audience interested in this nice combination of art 
and science we practice.


OK, so I am dreaming, but...

Thoughts?

--Dave--

Jeremiah McCarthy wrote:


Got it straight from the horse's ?--- S/N 5000 is going to Smithsonian... :-)

Jerry, wa2dkg


--
David F. Reed  - W5SV - cell: 512 585-1057

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Re: [Elecraft] S/N 5000

2005-05-26 Thread Paul Gates
Jerry this is great since I volunteer at the American History Museum part of 
the Smithsonian where I run the Ham station... NN3SI. I wonder if the K2 is 
only for display or will they let us use it in the ham station?
Paul Gates
Elecraft K1 #231
XG1
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
An idle mind is the devil's workshop.
And the devil's name is Alzheimer's!


- Original Message - 
From: Jeremiah McCarthy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 12:37 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] S/N 5000


 Got it straight from the horse's ?--- S/N 5000 is going to Smithsonian... 
 :-)

 Jerry, wa2dkg
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RE: [Elecraft] BL-1 and BL1-1 Balun Questions

2005-05-26 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Hi David:

You asked about how to get the three turns on the BL-1 core. Three turns
means that you see TWO loops of cable going down the outside to of the core
on each side. (Remember, turns are *always* counted by the number of passes
through the center of the core). For each hole, the wire starts at one end
of the core, goes through the hole (that's turn 1), loops around the
outside, back through the same hole (turn 2), around the outside the second
(and last time) then goes back through the same hole (turn 3) one last time.
Where it starts at one end you'll strip and solder to the terminals on the
board near the coaxial input connector and where it ends at the opposite end
you'll strip and solder the wires to the terminals at the output end of the
BL1 board. 

I have a hunch you're trying to see three loops of wire around the core on
the outside: that's why it won't fit and there isn't enough wire. That would
make four turns! 

You wanted to know if you were building the 1:1 or 4:1 version. The ONLY
difference between them is how the windings are connected at the output end
of the board. If you hook the red and white leads to the circuit board pads
as shown on the board - white leads to white pads and red leads to red pads,
you'll have a 4:1 balun.

If you want a 1:1 balun, connect the two white leads together and connect
them to the pad marked WHITE nearest the edge with a number 2 on the board,
then connect the two red leads together and connect them to the pad marked
RED at the edge with the number 1 on the board. The inner white and red
pads are not used. That's the only difference between the 1:1 and 4:1
versions.

Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] BL-1 and BL1-1 Balun Questions

2005-05-26 Thread David F. Reed

Ron,

thanks very much for the clear explanation; that was exactly what I was 
doing; I can get 2 visible turns around the outside just fine, and you 
explanation of the phasing making the ratio makes sense to me.


Again, many thanks.

--Dave--

Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:


Hi David:

You asked about how to get the three turns on the BL-1 core. Three turns
means that you see TWO loops of cable going down the outside to of the core
on each side. (Remember, turns are *always* counted by the number of passes
through the center of the core). For each hole, the wire starts at one end
of the core, goes through the hole (that's turn 1), loops around the
outside, back through the same hole (turn 2), around the outside the second
(and last time) then goes back through the same hole (turn 3) one last time.
Where it starts at one end you'll strip and solder to the terminals on the
board near the coaxial input connector and where it ends at the opposite end
you'll strip and solder the wires to the terminals at the output end of the
BL1 board. 


I have a hunch you're trying to see three loops of wire around the core on
the outside: that's why it won't fit and there isn't enough wire. That would
make four turns! 


You wanted to know if you were building the 1:1 or 4:1 version. The ONLY
difference between them is how the windings are connected at the output end
of the board. If you hook the red and white leads to the circuit board pads
as shown on the board - white leads to white pads and red leads to red pads,
you'll have a 4:1 balun.

If you want a 1:1 balun, connect the two white leads together and connect
them to the pad marked WHITE nearest the edge with a number 2 on the board,
then connect the two red leads together and connect them to the pad marked
RED at the edge with the number 1 on the board. The inner white and red
pads are not used. That's the only difference between the 1:1 and 4:1
versions.

Ron AC7AC
 


--
David F. Reed  - W5SV - cell: 512 585-1057

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[Elecraft] (no subject)

2005-05-26 Thread Paul Gates
Hi all... I think I have a problem! With K1 I am having a problem and I 
think it is setting the power up for 5 watts. Without touching anything 
right now I have a SWR 1.1 and a output of 1.9 watts when I adjust the 
internal tuner. I have a 3KW tuner in the circuit and am using the bypass 
switch on the tuner and using the internal turner in the K1. I have read and 
re-read the manual on Page 54 where it tells how to set the power out put 
but possibly am not doing it right. I know I am using the out menu to adjust 
power.  When I send CW however, I see 6 bars on the S-meter so I assume I am 
getting full output?? Any help will be appreciated. Right now I am going to 
the Panera Bread Restaurant and drown my tears in a 1/2 Greek Salad and 
sandwich! g BTW, I am using a 27 AMPHR battery which I use with my 706, 
and it is at present charged to 13.2 volts.
Paul Gates
Elecraft K1 #231
XG1
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
An idle mind is the devil's workshop.
And the devil's name is Alzheimer's! 
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Re: [Elecraft] MH2 Microphone Discontinued

2005-05-26 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Heil discontinued the hand mic. Yes, we are working on a new one, but it will be 
a little bit before we get them to market.


73, Eric


Paul Saville wrote:

The MH2 is now listed as discontinued. Will there be an Elecraft-branded replacement for 
those who don't fancy pop star type microphones?

73 Paul ZL3IN

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[Elecraft] KX1 Voltage

2005-05-26 Thread mvamis

On page 62 of the manual, right side top, it states:

You can connect any 7-14 V DC power supply or battery to 
J1, although you should use the minimum recommended 
voltage (8 V) when possible...


Why does Elecraft recommend that the KX1 only be run with 
8 volts? That's even less that a new set of Lithium 
batteries would produce.  Any comments?


Matt - K7OE
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RE: [Elecraft] PwrAntenna

2005-05-26 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Paul wrote:

I may be missing something but I had 2 homebrew amps running 813s, another 
one running 4-572B's by Dentron and recently since 1997 had a Ameritron 
AL80B till 2004. I sold all amps because I am satisfied with 100 watts from 
the Icom 706 and my QRP rigs. BUT, my point is I never noticed any increase 
in my utility bills!

---

The big current drain only happens when the key is down or on
instantaneous voice peaks. 

Hopefully, no one puts a brick on their key at a kilowatt output! 

Electric rates vary widely around the country too. Here our little local
Utility charges a bit under 3 cents/kilowatt hour (our power comes from the
Columbia River hydroelectric dams) and other places have quoted over 20
cents/kilowatt hour. 

It's tempting to run a kilowatt to a poor antenna in an attempted to get
out better, but keep in mind that short antennas, such as one tends to have
in cramped quarters, produce HUGE RF voltages, even at low power levels. 

Back in the 1950's some famous (or infamous) mobilers experimented with
kilowatt mobile rigs.  Keep in mind this was in the days of vacuum tubes.
Such setups often used several generators attached to the automobile engine
and a whole back seat area of the car filled with equipment (and the stories
of stalling the engine by hitting the transmit button were true!). One of
their frequent problems was that a huge corona discharge would often leap
off of the tip of the antenna, producing huge distortion on the signal. You
would never want to see that inside of an apartment or your attic! 

Another issue is the electromagnetic field itself. There are valid concerns
with the effects on human health of strong electromagnetic fields, including
the possibility of causing cancer. The ARRL has a lot of good data on this
subject and it's covered in all recent ARRL Handbooks. 

In any case, the fields produced by QRO operation with indoor/temporary
antennas are likely to cause very serious problems with all other appliances
including lights, radios, televisions (even battery powered portables),
microwaves, computers - you name it. At QRO levels, if a device runs off of
electricity it's likely to be severely affected by a nearby antenna! 


Ron AC7AC


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[Elecraft] Elegant PSK interface (KPSK2)

2005-05-26 Thread Daniel Reynolds
Hi Everyone,

I'm curious if anyone has considered building a PSK interface into their K2
with a couple audio jacks coming out the back of the K2 (e.g. where the
transverter is supposed to go on my #3421)? What I'm thinking about is building
an interface that ties into the K2 (bypassing the front mike connection) with a
more sensitive VOX built in - and with line-level type audio input/output. My
aim is to avoid the messy cable situation I currently have with my PC laptop
where I must use a USB-serial adapter to key an outboard interface, and a bunch
of audio cables. Instead, it will be similar to the Ten Tec Argonaut V - and
only require two audio patch cords between my laptop and the radio - with the
rig being keyed by the built-in interface, and audio levels being controlled
only on the laptop.

73,
Daniel AA0NI

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA800/1500 Power Question

2005-05-26 Thread Vic Rosenthal

Jim Harris wrote:


Now my real question.  Does anyone know what the AC
power requirements are for both models.  I'm bringing
more power into my shack this summer and it would be
great to know what power is required.  


I don't know the actual power requirements, Jim, but I would expect 
overall efficiency of around 50%, taking into account the power supply 
and amplifier efficiency.  However, if you are installing ANY high power 
amplifier, it's generally thought that a 20-amp 240V circuit is 
appropriate.  This is probably more than you will need for a KPA800, 
which would probably work fine with 15 or perhaps even 10 amp service at 
240V, but (depending on the length of the line to your service entrance) 
it probably means no. 12 wire, which is not a big deal.  An electrician 
can tell you what you need to do to meet code in terms of wire size, 
type of conduit, type of receptacles, etc.


What I did was install 20 amp breakers and use no. 10 wire to ensure the 
minimum voltage drop under load.  I brought out 4 wires:  two hots, one 
neutral, and one ground.  The neutral is ONLY connected to the ground at 
the service entrance, noplace else.  Most amplifiers only need the two 
hot leads and ground (there are exceptions).  I use the hot-to-neutral 
connections to provide two 120v circuits for other shack equipment.


I would not run a 1KW amp on a 120v line if I could avoid it, due to the 
greater voltage drop that would be incurred.  I understand that the 
KPA800 is capable of 1000w or more output on CW (it's limited to 800w on 
SSB due to increased IMD at higher power levels).


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] PwrAntenna

2005-05-26 Thread Vic Rosenthal

Paul Gates wrote:

I may be missing something but I had 2 homebrew amps running 813s, another 
one running 4-572B's by Dentron and recently since 1997 had a Ameritron 
AL80B till 2004. I sold all amps because I am satisfied with 100 watts from 
the Icom 706 and my QRP rigs. BUT, my point is I never noticed any increase 
in my utility bills!


I sent the following in response to the original mention of power costs, 
but forgot to forward it to the list:


EricJ wrote:

 My electric bill came today and it worked out to 11.7 cents/kwh.

Let's say you have a 1.5KW amplifier.  Overall efficiency might be 50%, 
so it draws 3KW key down.  Now let's say you operate 2 hours a day, 5 
days a week.  During that time, you QSO 50% of the time.  During a QSO, 
you transmit 50% of the time and listen 50% of the time.  You use CW, so 
your duty cycle is 50%.  This will cost you 3KW * 10h * 0.5 * 0.5 * 0.5 
= 3.75KWH, or, at the specified rate, about 48 cents a week, or $25 a 
year if you always use the amplifier and don't take a vacation. SSB will 
be cheaper.


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] PwrAntenna

2005-05-26 Thread Vic Rosenthal

Vic Rosenthal wrote:
Now let's say you operate 2 hours a day, 5 
days a week.  During that time, you QSO 50% of the time.  During a QSO, 
you transmit 50% of the time and listen 50% of the time.  You use CW, so 
your duty cycle is 50%.  This will cost you 3KW * 10h * 0.5 * 0.5 * 0.5 
= 3.75KWH, or, at the specified rate, about 48 cents a week, or $25 a 
year if you always use the amplifier and don't take a vacation. SSB will 
be cheaper.


Oops, I forgot a factor: 3KW * 10h * 0.5 * 0.5 * 0.5 * 0.5 = 24 cents a 
week!


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] PwrAntenna

2005-05-26 Thread n2ey
 Quoting K2VCO:
 
Let's say you have a 1.5KW amplifier. Overall efficiency might be 50%, so it 
draws 3KW key down. 
 
What does it draw key-up? 
 
Now let's say you operate 2 hours a day, 5 days a week. During that time, you 
QSO 50% of the time. During a QSO, you transmit 50% of the time and listen 
50% of the time. You use CW, so your duty cycle is 50%. This will cost you 
3KW * 10h * 0.5 * 0.5 * 0.5 = 3.75KWH, or, at the specified rate, about 48 
cents a week, or $25 a year if you always use the amplifier and don't take a 
vacation.
 
Actually a bit more.
 
If the amplifier draws, say, 250 W key up (to keep the heaters hot, fans 
turning, and B+ caps charged) then you have an additional 8.75 hours x .25 = 
about 2.2 kWH. So the weekly total is really more like 70 cents a week.
 
Of course in most cases merely leaving a few lights on a few hours each day 
will use more kWH in the course of a year. 
 
 
SSB will be cheaper.
 
How do you figure? The duty cycles are about the same. SSB may even have a 
higher duty cycle if you turn the processor on.
 
btw, the duty cycle of CW is about 44%: Consider the standard word PARIS. 
With all the spaces, it's 50 time units long. But the key is down only 22 of 
those times. 
 
73 de Jim, N2EY  
 
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[Elecraft] QRO precautions ??

2005-05-26 Thread Able2fly
With the possible eminent presentation of a VERY QRO amplifier to  the 
Elecraft family, there is certain to be a number of us, with only  QRP 
experience, 
jumping in and playing with gobs of RF energy for the very  first time. Let's 
hear it from those with experience, some  do's, don'ts and caveats that go 
along with running the legal limit. I  hate learning stuff the hard way...
 
Thanks,
 
Bill  K3UJ
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RE: [Elecraft] KPA power out

2005-05-26 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Correction! 

Don, W3FPR, kindly brought to my attention that in my comments below I
mistakenly referred to the KPA100 output filters as bandpass filters. They
are actually low-pass filters. 

The problem seems to be in the KPA100's low-pass output filters, NOT in the
K2's bandpass output filters. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 7:52 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA power out


Fred KT5X wrote:

Took the KAT-100 out of the chain for the test, using dummy load.  Startled
by the results:

band  K2  KPA-100KPA-100  
   thru ATU no ATU
160 --- 10.7 -100 - 100
  80 --- 15.0 -100 - 100
  40 --- 14.1 -  90 -   90
  30 --- 14.2 -  80 -   80
  20 --- 14.5 -  50 -   50
  17 --- 14.4 -  60 -   60
  15 --- 14.5 -  60 -   60
  12 --- 14.1 -100 -   40
  10 --- 14.7 -100 -   25

Dunno what to make of it.

--

Something isn't right in both the KPA100 and ATU from the looks of it, Fred!


I can't speak to the ATU issue of poor efficiency on 10/12 meters since I
don't have a KAT100. The droop on 30-15 meters from the KPA100 suggests an
issue with the bandpass filters. The KPA100 typically exceeds 100 watts
output quite easily. The fact that yours doesn't suggests low supply voltage
or a measurement error that is showing a slightly low output across the
board. 

Suggest you look very closely at your bandpass filter components for the low
bands. The KPA100 manual also has a procedure for checking the bandpass
filters using an antenna analyzer, if you have access to one. 

Just for the record, here's what my K2/100 delivers at full power into a
dummy load:

160: 112 watts

 80: 108 watts

 60: 110 watts (legal limit on this band is 50 watts erp, of course)

 40: 112 watts

 30: 107 watts
 
 20: 105 watts

 18: 111 watts

 15: 106 watts

 12: 104 watts

 10: 106 watts at 28 MHz, 46 watts at 29.5 MHz

That roll-off at the upper limit of 10 meters is normal I believe. Of course
the difference between 100 watts and 112 watts in what another Ham will hear
on the air is completely insignificant, but it demonstrates that the KPA100
will meet the 100 watt transmit specification across the HF bands. 

Ron AC7AC 



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RE: [Elecraft] S/N 5000

2005-05-26 Thread EricJ
I'm withholding my MOMA nomination until the K2 has countersunk cabinet
screws like the more beautiful K1.

Eric
KE6US 

K1 #1976
K2 #567


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
David F. Reed
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 8:48 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] S/N 5000

Jerry,

beauty is in the eye of the beholder and I think we all agree these are
beautiful things, these K2s, don't we?

There is precedence for this in some of the industrial products that have
joined the MOMA (the Museum of Modern Art) collection and been exhibited,
right?  So how about a QRP station in the MOMA?  after all, at the
Smithsonian (a fine institution, most particularly the Air  Space Museum)
we expect a lot of techno-geeks through, but at the MOMA we might get a
wider audience interested in this nice combination of art and science we
practice.

OK, so I am dreaming, but...

Thoughts?

--Dave--

Jeremiah McCarthy wrote:

Got it straight from the horse's ?--- S/N 5000 is going to 
Smithsonian... :-)

Jerry, wa2dkg

-- 
David F. Reed  - W5SV - cell: 512 585-1057

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RE: [Elecraft] KX1 Voltage

2005-05-26 Thread EricJ
Elecraft isn't recommending only 8V. They are recommending that you never go
BELOW 8 volts. Consider 8V the MIMINUM.

Eric
KE6US

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 9:41 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KX1 Voltage

On page 62 of the manual, right side top, it states:

You can connect any 7-14 V DC power supply or battery to J1, although you
should use the minimum recommended voltage (8 V) when possible...

Why does Elecraft recommend that the KX1 only be run with
8 volts? That's even less that a new set of Lithium batteries would produce.
Any comments?

Matt - K7OE
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Fw: [Elecraft] Elegant PSK interface (KPSK2)

2005-05-26 Thread Pauli Nunez EA3BLQ

Hi Daniel,

Greetings from Barcelona, Spain

Please pay a look to my website: www.qsl.net\ea3blq Menu - English -
Digital Interface. Hope you'll like my setup.

Best 73

Pauli, EA3BLQ
K2/100 # 1044
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
URL: www.qsl.net/ea3blq


- Original Message - 
From: Daniel Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 6:31 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Elegant PSK interface (KPSK2)



Hi Everyone,

I'm curious if anyone has considered building a PSK interface into their 
K2

with a couple audio jacks coming out the back of the K2 (e.g. where the
transverter is supposed to go on my #3421)? What I'm thinking about is 
building
an interface that ties into the K2 (bypassing the front mike connection) 
with a
more sensitive VOX built in - and with line-level type audio 
input/output. My
aim is to avoid the messy cable situation I currently have with my PC 
laptop
where I must use a USB-serial adapter to key an outboard interface, and a 
bunch
of audio cables. Instead, it will be similar to the Ten Tec Argonaut V - 
and
only require two audio patch cords between my laptop and the radio - with 
the
rig being keyed by the built-in interface, and audio levels being 
controlled

only on the laptop.

73,
Daniel AA0NI

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Re: [Elecraft] S/N 5000

2005-05-26 Thread Steven Pituch

Hi Eric,
Ah, but I love the retro look of all those knobby screws.  Truly a work 
of art.


Regards,
Steve, W2MY

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.  ;o)

EricJ wrote:

I'm withholding my MOMA nomination until the K2 has countersunk cabinet
screws like the more beautiful K1.

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[Elecraft] KX1 30m module - Hand capacitance effect?

2005-05-26 Thread Martin Gillen
Hi.

I noticed last night that if I am listening to 30m and
I place my hand on the case of the KX1 (anywhere on
the
case but especially over the 30m module), that the
signals get a bit quieter.

I'm wondering if it's a capacitive effect since the
30m module components are separated from the case
by only a thin rubber foot...

I have 26ft wire connected as an antenna and about
15ft
as a counterpoise.

I wondered if the 30m module wasn't grounded properly
but I don't suppose it would work at all if the ground
wire was broken (mind you if I remember correctly
there
are two ground hookups - maybe one has given out).

Can someone else with a KX1 confirm this behaviour?

It doesn't happen on 20m/40m.

Thanks,
Martin.
VA3SIE.





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RE: [Elecraft] QRO precautions ??

2005-05-26 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Bill, K3UJ wrote:

With the possible eminent presentation of a VERY QRO amplifier to  the 
Elecraft family, there is certain to be a number of us, with only  QRP
experience, 
jumping in and playing with gobs of RF energy for the very  first time.
Let's 
hear it from those with experience, some  do's, don'ts and caveats that go 
along with running the legal limit. I  hate learning stuff the hard way...

-

I'd start with the observation that any part of the antenna circuit of a QRO
rig should be treated with the same respect you'd give the inside of your
household mains circuit breaker box.

The RF from a QRO amplifier won't likely kill you like touching the
terminals behind the safety cover of a circuit-breaker box will, but if you
get onto high voltage RF you may wish you were dead. 

The pain of serious RF burns is deep and long-lasting. Permanent nerve
damage is not unusual. 

Once I was working with a guy installing a large, self-supporting antenna on
a ship when he got a burn on his hand from induced RF from a nearby
broadcast station. We were using a container crane to position the antenna
for bolting to the ship. I was on the ship and he was riding the crane
with the antenna. When he reached across to position to base so I could drop
the bolts in place, I saw the glow of an RF arc between the brass antenna
base and the ship. He let out a howl that would have done the Wolf-man
proud. I later figured out that the 200-foot high container crane, grounded
at its base on it's metal tracks to ensure workers are absolutely safe from
electrical shock, formed a giant loop antenna with the ship sitting in salt
water. We were only a few hundred meters from the broadcast towers. It made
a black mark about two inches long on his palm in a fraction of a second. 

He was in such severe pain for several weeks that is was very difficult to
use that hand at all.

Remember, that was just the induced RF from a nearby antenna. No direct
connection at all. Several hundred watts from a Ham rig can be at least as
destructive if you touch it.  

Also, I've seen arcs 6 inches and longer erupt from high-impedance points of
a kilowatt transmitter antenna system across a dirty insulator. They not
only pose a serious injury hazard, they can and will start fires. Temporary
or indoor antennas are no place for QRO power levels. 

Like all high voltages the voltages resulting from high RF power levels need
not be dangerous or harmful if treated with respect. Good insulators, decent
distance between people and the antenna, and good safety procedures when
working around the equipment make a kilowatt no more dangerous than QRP. 

Ron AC7AC



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Re: [Elecraft] PwrAntenna

2005-05-26 Thread Tom Arntzen


- Original Message -  Let's say you have a 1.5KW amplifier. 
Overall efficiency might be 50%,
so it draws 3KW key down.  Now let's say you operate 2 hours a day, 5 days 
a week.  During that time, you QSO 50% of the time.  During a QSO, you 
transmit 50% of the time and listen 50% of the time.  You use CW, so your 
duty cycle is 50%.  This will cost you 3KW * 10h * 0.5 * 0.5 * 0.5 = 
3.75KWH, or, at the specified rate, about 48 cents a week, or $25 a year 
if you always use the amplifier and don't take a vacation. SSB will be 
cheaper.


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA


SO :-)
This meen some of us can afford to talk higher and longer
I suggest that everyone that buys a KPA800/1500 found a club together.

The  FOR A HANDFIST OF DOLLARS DXCLUB.
We pay!!! YOU better listen.

I think I could like that club.   hehe.

CQCQCQ this is LA1PHA/KPA800 come! Everyone please!

Well just a tought :-)

If Santa is good to me next year I would love to have a KPA800 warming my 
feets during DX.


73 de Tom LA1PHA / LI1PHA


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RE: [Elecraft] KX1 30m module - Hand capacitance effect?

2005-05-26 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Martin, VA3SIE asked:

I noticed last night that if I am listening to 30m and
I place my hand on the case of the KX1 (anywhere on
the
case but especially over the 30m module), that the
signals get a bit quieter.

I'm wondering if it's a capacitive effect since the
30m module components are separated from the case
by only a thin rubber foot...

I have 26ft wire connected as an antenna and about
15ft
as a counterpoise.

I wondered if the 30m module wasn't grounded properly
but I don't suppose it would work at all if the ground
wire was broken (mind you if I remember correctly
there
are two ground hookups - maybe one has given out).

Can someone else with a KX1 confirm this behaviour?

It doesn't happen on 20m/40m.

-

I'd suspect you are detuning your antenna by touching the case. A 15 foot
'counterpoise' isn't an especially effective ground, so adding your body
capacity often has a significant effect. If you were running high power, you
might complain that the rig 'bites' with RF when you touch it while
transmitting.

Those effects are very frequency-dependent, which is why you only notice it
on one band.

Ron AC7AC 



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RE: [Elecraft] S/N 5000

2005-05-26 Thread Craig Rairdin
 Ah, but I love the retro look of all those knobby screws.  Truly a 
 work of art.

Then why aren't they all knobby? 

While the Elecraft radios are very sharp looking compared to other kits,
they look like kits compared to commercially built radios. I'm not
complaining; just saying they're far from MOMA material.

OTOH beauty is in the eye of the beholder. In Elecraft's case, in the eye of
the builder.

Craig
K1 #1966
K2 #4941

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Re: [Elecraft] antenna suggestions? (was Re: kpa800 question)

2005-05-26 Thread Stuart Rohre
Brian,
With a window you could deploy a homemade version of the BW window loaded
antenna.  It was a whip as long as you dare, and a base loading coil, which
you can wind and tap for various bands.  Put a counterpoise wire for say 33
feet on ground side of feedpoint at base of coil.  Tap up on coil with coax
to find 5 0 ohm match.  A jumper shorts out parts of coil for various bands.
If the whip is 6 feet you will find collapsible ones at some radio outlets.
72,
Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] S/N 5000

2005-05-26 Thread Joe Malloy

Steven Pituch wrote:

Hi Eric,
Ah, but I love the retro look of all those knobby screws.  Truly a work 
of art.


Regards,
Steve, W2MY

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.  ;o)

EricJ wrote:


I'm withholding my MOMA nomination until the K2 has countersunk cabinet
screws like the more beautiful K1.


You know, those screws almost kept me from getting a K2 since I equated 
sticking-out screws with somebody's homebrew work.  Now, as an aside, 
I didn't doubt the performance of the K2, I know screws aren't going to 
affect how it performs, but it just seemed sorta messy.


Well, I figured, darn the screws and full speed ahead!  As a result, I 
have no. 01299 modified (but for the KPA-100) to the hilt and absolutely 
*love* the way it performs.  Just shows to go ya, you shouldn't judge a 
book by its cover.  Besides, the screws sticking out like that, well, it 
sorta grows on you!


73,

Joe, W2RBA\
K2 no. 01299
K1 no. 01005
KX1 no 0020



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RE: [Elecraft] antenna suggestions?

2005-05-26 Thread Charles Mabbott
Got some folks around SE MI that use this setup and hit parks around lunch
time [ever notice how ham activities seem to involve food?] and just clamp
it on with ham sticks also.  The Outbacker would allow for more available
bands...

-- 
Chuck  AA8VS
===\
Racial interaction is described by Physics, for every 
action there is an opposite reaction.  We hate them, they 
hate us, and we hate them back. And there you are, we 
are trapped by mathematics.

 -Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 8:11 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] antenna suggestions?

Brian:

If you have ANY metal nearby (e.g., railing), you could use the vise-grips

mount and a hamstick, or better an Outbacker.  The mount is basically a set
of 
pliers with a stud welded on the tip.  Using the Outbacker gives you the 
freedom to change bands simply by changing taps.

This portable antenna system is easy to set up and move, works well, and is 
relatively inconspicuous.  The great advantage is that it will be resonant
on 
your operating frequency and not require a tuner.

73, Jim K5HO

-
Nunquam Secundum



  snip
So - any antenna suggestions? Preferably something inexpensive and easy
to build as I have almost no tools here. Some ideas I've been thinking
about are a random wire (using the tuner), a homebrew buddipole, perhaps
a magnetic loop to stick by the window, or a shortened vertical.

Brian, VE7NGR
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FW: [Elecraft] S/N 5000

2005-05-26 Thread Dan Barker
I never really thought about the screws not being countersunk. That would
certainly look nice. What I do remember very vividly is being struck by the
ingenious elegance of the whole 2D fastener idea. That a very good, solid
case can be created with only 3 bends in the metal, and allow any of 6 (or
seven) sides to be pulled independently of the other 5 (or 6).

I'll take the screws sticking out any day. Engineering like that on the case
gives a good hint at what's to go inside that case.

If that's not a Wayne or Eric original idea, please hit CTRL-D.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

snip
You know, those screws almost kept me from getting a K2 since I equated
sticking-out screws with somebody's homebrew work.
/snip

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RE: [Elecraft] kpa800 question

2005-05-26 Thread Bill NY9H

at the hotel demosletting the smoke out was mentioned ,
that is why the rf modules will already be constructed, with the devices 
all tightened just the right amount...
wouldn't want any smoke to sneak out from between the heat sink and the 
output devices


and the PS  module will be built also, to avoid letting smoke out of the 
operator,



bill  ny9h

At 10:00 PM 5/25/2005, EricJ wrote:


Definitely. It should be fun. And when you let the smoke out, you REALLY let
the smoke out. Hi.

73, Johnny


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RE: [Elecraft] S/N 5000

2005-05-26 Thread EricJ
The K1 uses the same cabinet design with 2D fasteners...but with countersunk
screws. Either way, I also really like the enclosure design. The internal
access for BOTH rigs is exceptional because of it. I don't hesitate to open
either one of them up to check on something. With my TS-950S, except for
getting the top cover off, I can't figure out how to access ANYTHING. My
TS-430S has a lot of fold-out assemblies that make access possible for a
normal ham, but I still dread having to get into it.

Eric
KE6US

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Dan Barker
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 12:37 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: FW: [Elecraft] S/N 5000

I never really thought about the screws not being countersunk. That would
certainly look nice. What I do remember very vividly is being struck by the
ingenious elegance of the whole 2D fastener idea. That a very good, solid
case can be created with only 3 bends in the metal, and allow any of 6 (or
seven) sides to be pulled independently of the other 5 (or 6).

I'll take the screws sticking out any day. Engineering like that on the case
gives a good hint at what's to go inside that case.

If that's not a Wayne or Eric original idea, please hit CTRL-D.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

snip
You know, those screws almost kept me from getting a K2 since I equated
sticking-out screws with somebody's homebrew work.
/snip

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 30m module - Hand capacitance effect?

2005-05-26 Thread Chuck Mabbott
Did you cover up the speaker??  Sorry don't know why I asked 
that.

Have a great and safe Memorial Day weekend to one and all!!

73  Chuck AA8VS

- Original Message - 
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 3:14 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KX1 30m module - Hand capacitance effect?


Martin, VA3SIE asked:

I noticed last night that if I am listening to 30m and
I place my hand on the case of the KX1 (anywhere on
the
case but especially over the 30m module), that the
signals get a bit quieter.

I'm wondering if it's a capacitive effect since the
30m module components are separated from the case
by only a thin rubber foot...

I have 26ft wire connected as an antenna and about
15ft
as a counterpoise.

I wondered if the 30m module wasn't grounded properly
but I don't suppose it would work at all if the ground
wire was broken (mind you if I remember correctly
there
are two ground hookups - maybe one has given out).

Can someone else with a KX1 confirm this behaviour?

It doesn't happen on 20m/40m.

-

I'd suspect you are detuning your antenna by touching the case. A 15 foot
'counterpoise' isn't an especially effective ground, so adding your body
capacity often has a significant effect. If you were running high power, you
might complain that the rig 'bites' with RF when you touch it while
transmitting.

Those effects are very frequency-dependent, which is why you only notice it
on one band.

Ron AC7AC



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Re: [Elecraft] S/N 5000

2005-05-26 Thread Mike Markowski
Joe Malloy wrote:
 [...] Besides, the screws sticking out like that, well, it
 sorta grows on you!

A great rig warts and all, you might say...  :-)-- Mike AB3AP
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[Elecraft] K2 #4913

2005-05-26 Thread Jim Sheldon
Ken, KG0WX now has his new K2 #4913 on the air -- worked him on 7.040 just a
few minutes ago for his first K2 to K2 contact.  I'm sure he is really
appreciative of all the help the elecrafters gave him in getting it going.
He bought his after seeing mine at a local hamfest, and he commented to me
that he still can't believe what the receiver can hear, even on a dead band
as 40 is right now. 

Jim - W0EB
K2 #4338

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[Elecraft] K1 Problem with Power Out on 30/40m

2005-05-26 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi there,

I have a problem with my K1-4 on 30/40m. First I have to say that it was
working before and I don't know what happened.

Here is what I know:

- Power out on 15/20 is ok.
- Power out on 30/40 is 0.1W, probably less
- I am losing the signal between DRV (1.5Vpp) and PA (0.1Vpp). Measured with
Oscilloscope.
- To be precise the signal is present at the base of Q7, but is extremely
weak at the collector.

- I checked Relays K7 and K8 manually. They work.
- I checked T4. Ok.
- I have a dummy load attached. Measured 50Ohms.
- I checked L4-L6. 0Ohms.
- Of course I checked solder joints/bridges

What else can I do or check?

What could be the problem?

Thanks in advance!


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de






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Re: [Elecraft] S/N 5000

2005-05-26 Thread Steven Pituch

Hi All,
I think I have always liked it because it looks more military heavy 
duty with the round head screws.  Reminds me of those what are they? 
ARC-5 receivers I think made of aluminum plate and plenty of screws.


I honestly wouldn't like the K-2 styling one bit if it was put in a say 
a Kenwood TS-2000 like sleazy plastic case.


Also I can't imagine the case with flat head screws.  Alignment would 
need to be perfect or a sharp edge of a screw head would be exposed.  I 
guess I just appreciate the practicality of the design of the entire 
shell. The screws are an integrated part of the design.  I like it so 
much that I bought an EC-2 for my KAT10 and KPA100.


Steve
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[Elecraft] re:KX1 Hand capacitance effect

2005-05-26 Thread Mike KL7R
I have not noticed that effect.

I have noticed that the VFO encoder
is pretty noisy as you change frequencies
on some bands but not others.

Maybe you are getting encoder or synthesizer noise?
Does the noise go away when the antenna is disconnected?
Does the noise only happen when you change frequencies?
Does the noise go away when you take the rig outside?
Does it go away with a different counterpoise length?

Mike
KL7R

When in danger, or in doubt, run in circles, scream and shout.
-- Robert A. Heinlein



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA800/1500 Power Question

2005-05-26 Thread N2EY
In a message dated 5/26/05 12:38:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:


 , it's generally thought that a 20-amp 240V circuit is 
 appropriate.  This is probably more than you will need for a KPA800, 
 which would probably work fine with 15 or perhaps even 10 amp service at 
 240V, but (depending on the length of the line to your service entrance) 
 it probably means no. 12 wire, which is not a big deal.  

General rule for house wiring:

#14 for up to 15 amps
#12 for up to 20 amps
#10 for up to 30 amps

You can use heavier wire for less drop. The cost of the wire is usually 
insignificant compared to the cost of installing it.

---

Many amplifiers have a dual-primary transformer whose windings can be 
connected in series for 240 and in parallel for 120. If you ever use one of 
these, do 
NOT connect the neutral to the point where the two windings are connected in 
series - just connect the outer ends.

73 de Jim, N2EY
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Re: [Elecraft] PwrAntenna

2005-05-26 Thread Fred Jensen
50 watts from a Harvey-Wells TBS50 Bandmaster to a Webster Band Spanner 
in a 1953 Plymouth powered by a PE-103 dynamotor caused enough corona on 
10m for me that on a dark night parked at the observatory in Griffith 
Park, I attracted the attention of several cops with flames leaping 
from my antenna.  First and only time since I've been approached by a 
cop with his gun drawn.


Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw


Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

One of their frequent problems was that a huge corona discharge

 would often leap off of the tip of the antenna, producing huge
 distortion on the signal.


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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 13, Issue 30 On 70 cm Transverter Thought

2005-05-26 Thread Wa6bfh
PA0V, I'm sorry but, I did not understand your transverter thought or  
question. Could you elaborate?
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[Elecraft] (no subject)

2005-05-26 Thread Mike Serio
Unsubscribe

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[Elecraft] MD2 mike with Ten Tec?

2005-05-26 Thread John Huffman

I'd like to use my MD2 Elecraft/Heil microphone with both my
K2/100 and Ten Tec Pegasus.

Have not had luck with getting info from Heil.

Ten Ten Pegasus has 4 pins -
1 audio
2 ground
3 PTT
4 9v

K2/100 has 8 pins including -
1 audio
2 PTT
6 5v
7 ground
8 ground

Anyone had success with such a setup?  In testing with the
Pegasus, I've tried just connecting the corresponding pins
and while PTT does work, no audio.

73 de NA8M
John


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Re: [Elecraft] antenna suggestions?

2005-05-26 Thread Larry Makoski W2LJ



So - any antenna suggestions? Preferably something inexpensive and easy
to build as I have almost no tools here. Some ideas I've been thinking
about are a random wire (using the tuner), a homebrew buddipole, perhaps
a magnetic loop to stick by the window, or a shortened vertical.

Brian, VE7NGR
 


PAC-12 - - - - -  very easy to homebrew and has given me excellent results!

http://www.njqrp.org/pac-12/index.html

73 de Larry W2LJ

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[Elecraft] KAT2 vs LDG AT-100 Pro

2005-05-26 Thread Ken Bessler

Before my K2 was even completed, I decided to sell
off my LDG AT-100 Pro and use the cash to get a KAT2.

This was based on ease of use/carrying plus W0EB's
point that the KAT2 is better.

My LDG tuner had trouble on 20  12 with my R7000
and trouble on 17, 12  10 with my 40m dipole, fed with
coax going to 50' of 450 ohm ladder line.

The KAT2 flat blows the LDG out of the water, folks! It
tuned almost as fast when returning to a freq and it's about
half as noisy. It handled with EASE all the antenna/freq
combo's I threw at it. LDG is a good product but the KAT2
is clearly superior.

Wow.!

Just my 2¢ worth... 73's es gd dx de Ken KGØWX
Grid EM17ip, Flying Pigs #1055, Digital On Six #350,
 Proud builder  owner of Elecraft K2 #4913 




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[Elecraft] QRO in a QRP Society

2005-05-26 Thread Fred Jensen
A good point was raised in the KPA800/KPA1500 threads -- those in this 
community (probably many) who are accustomed to QRP power levels and 
have never messed around with QRO need to beware.  We sure don't want 
any of our ham brothers/sisters hurt, and trust me, it does hurt (As a 
kid, I wasn't the fastest learner, but I did learn).  I think the RF 
actually cooks your tissues and the effects take months to heal.  And, 
it's always on your fingers ... those things you use the most.


I would not consider an inside antenna with QRO power levels, and even 
at 100W, the voltages can be truly astounding.  I once strung some bell 
wire around the living room of an apartment near the ceiling in a 
U-shape on push pins, and fed it with my S-line and a tuner.  The end of 
the wire was at the top of the wood moulding around the sliding door 
that opened onto the patio.


At first tune-up, a 2 RF arc jumped from the end of the wire to a 
drywall screw covered by paint screwed into the metal stud, and started 
the corner of the wood moulding on fire.  Andrea and I were newly 
married.  Everything you can possibly imagine about her reaction to this 
example of physics is both true, and also quite insufficient to describe 
the ensuing discussion about my radio habit, the safety of living with 
me, and how the kids we had yet to make might survive to adulthood with 
me in the house.


Theoretically, the voltage at the un-fed end of an antenna is infinite, 
and Ohms law tells us the impedance is infinite too.  Infinities don't 
really happen in our everyday world, but an impedance of perhaps 5,000 
ohms on a lossy inside antenna is quite reasonable.  800 watts in 5K 
ohms yields 2KV at the end of the antenna.  Beware!


73,


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RE: [Elecraft] S/N 5000

2005-05-26 Thread EricJ
Not to beat the subject to death, but the K1 uses flush screws and there are
absolutely no alignment problems or sharp edges. The workmanship on the K1
case is top quality. I can't imagine Elecraft accepting anything less. The
K1 case goes together exactly the same way as the K2. Identical hardware.
The panels are just smaller and the holes are properly countersunk. The
reason the K2 has humongous, bulbous screw heads sticking out everywhere and
the K1 doesn't has nothing to do with quality or design concerns. I believe
Eric or Wayne said on here a few months ago that it is that way because they
like it that way. Can't argue with that! I have both, a K1 and a K2. I've
learned to accept things as they are. None of us are perfect.

BTW, a few K2 owners who appreciate the MOMA-quality aesthetics of the K1
have countersunk the holes in their K2 panels and installed K1 screws.
Elecraft has them packaged, P/N FLTSCRKT. The description SAYS they are for
the K1, but everyone knows they are packaged for K2 owners who quietly want
to emulate the classic beauty of the K1. 

Eric
KE6US

K1 1976
K2 567

-Original Message-


Also I can't imagine the case with flat head screws.  Alignment would need
to be perfect or a sharp edge of a screw head would be exposed.  I guess I
just appreciate the practicality of the design of the entire shell. The
screws are an integrated part of the design.  I like it so much that I
bought an EC-2 for my KAT10 and KPA100.

Steve
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Re: [Elecraft] MH2 Microphone Discontinued

2005-05-26 Thread Paul Saville
Thanks for that information OM, I will be CW only until
the new hand mike comes on the market. Take as long as
you like!

73 Paul ZL3IN
 
 Heil discontinued the hand mic. Yes, we are working on a
 new one, but it will be a little bit before we get them
 to market.
 

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Re: [Elecraft] PwrAntenna

2005-05-26 Thread Paul Gates
Fred... Back in the 60s I used 2 hustler ant. on the rear of the car or 
station wagon as the case might be  to a Drake TR4 On a trip to Fla from 
Tenn. I secured a florescent tube vertically to the 2 antennas. I did not 
get stopped by the police at night whenever I talked they lit up!
Paul Gates
Elecraft K1 #231
XG1
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
An idle mind is the devil's workshop.
And the devil's name is Alzheimer's!


- Original Message - 
From: Fred Jensen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PwrAntenna


 50 watts from a Harvey-Wells TBS50 Bandmaster to a Webster Band Spanner
 in a 1953 Plymouth powered by a PE-103 dynamotor caused enough corona on
 10m for me that on a dark night parked at the observatory in Griffith
 Park, I attracted the attention of several cops with flames leaping
 from my antenna.  First and only time since I've been approached by a
 cop with his gun drawn.

 Fred K6DGW
 Auburn CA CM98lw


 Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
  One of their frequent problems was that a huge corona discharge
   would often leap off of the tip of the antenna, producing huge
   distortion on the signal.


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[Elecraft] EPA QRP Club TAC Sprint 2005

2005-05-26 Thread Ron Polityka

Hello,

In one week the EPA QRP Club's TAC Sprint 2005 will be held on June 4th 
which is a Saturday.


Two new changes to the scoring.

#1 - If you are running QRPp you can add 500 points to your final score.

#2 - If you are portable or out on any trail you can add 750 points to your 
final score.


The National Trail Days in on June 4th so you will need to be out from your 
QTH to be portable or on a trail. http://www.americanhiking.org/events/ntd/


You can send all logs via e-mail to N3EPA. I will do the scoring for you so 
you don't even have to try to figure it out. I will let you know your score 
when I tally you points up for you. I check everyone entry and I do find 
many mistakes since the scoring is complicated.


72
Ron de N3EPA
EPA QRP Club El Presidente'
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.n3epa.org 



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[Elecraft] Hello lisa

2005-05-26 Thread k4zm
Lisa:

Please toss my hat in the ring to build K2 SN:5000.Lots of chatter on the 
list about itLOL

Jim K4ZM
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[Elecraft] K2 # 4864 Lives!

2005-05-26 Thread richard.arland
Took K2 # 4864 to Dayton with me to finish up the final assembly and install 
the options. Everything is working per manual(s) EXCEPT for the internal ATU. 
For some reason I cannot get the unit to null and cal correctly. HOwever, it 
works well with the ATU disconnected (for a short time) and feeding the RF 
output into a LDG Z-11 feeding my 40M EDZ at 45 ft. (At Dayton, Eric advised me 
to contact Gary at the plant for help in nulling and calibrating the ATU, which 
I will do as soon as the dust settles from our return from the Hamvention).

Great radio, Wayne $ Eric. 

Thanks for making my surgery recovery a whole lot less boring!

vy 73 

Rich K7SZ

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Re: [Elecraft] S/N 5000

2005-05-26 Thread Steven Pituch

Hi Eric,
Sounds good.  I need to look at the K1 case.  Yes, bulbous or flat, what 
a difficult decision.


Amen,

Steve, W2MY
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Re: [Elecraft] QRO precautions ??

2005-05-26 Thread Charles Greene

Hello,

I recently reactivated a Swan linear and an older Hallicrafter HT33A,  When 
I exceeded about 500 watts on 40 or 80, the GFI breaker in the upstairs 
bathroom would trip and the electric bed also upstairs would start 
running.  (A real No-No if the XYL was in it).  I had a lot of bothersome 
RF in the shack from a 135' OCF antenna that didn't cause any problems at 
100 watts.  I also had a little TVI in the TV upstairs.  Using an old 
linear, you miss QSK.  However I solved all of these problems.  On the GFI 
breaker, I replaced it; the new ones are RF resistant.  I used an AC line 
filter I had in the shack and that fixed the electric bed problem.  On the 
RF, I used all standard fixes: short grounds, better ground on the coax 
shield before coming into the shack.  All helped but  but it took a dozen 
or so turns of RG8X on a 2 gallon chlorix bottle where the coax came into 
the house to get rig of it completely.  I installed two LPF filters in the 
coax from each linear to its tuner and that took care of the TVI.  For QSK, 
I reactivated a QSK1500 external switching unit on the Swan and Omni-VI 
that gave me back QSK at anything less than 1500 watts.On the newer 
linears, some of them have QSK built in, so if you want QSK, buy a linear 
with it build in.  I'm assuming the Elecraft linear has it.  It goes 
without saying that you need heavy duty coax switches, RG8 or at least RG8X 
coax and even LMR-400 on long runs.  You need high power antenna tuners, 
lightning arresters, heavy duty grounds and adequate power to the shack.  I 
have a separate 220 v circuit going to the shack.  Operating, you don't 
need a linear most of the time, especially on CW.  Sometimes it's helpful 
on SSB particularity on 20, 40 and 80.  Frankly, If I had to buy a new 3K 
linear (dollars), I'm not sure it would be worth it.  You have to see what 
kind of operating you do.  Of course, from Elecraft's point of view, if 
there are linears to be sold, a good, relatively inexpensive kit has a lot 
of potential.


At 01:31 PM 5/26/2005, you wrote:

With the possible eminent presentation of a VERY QRO amplifier to  the
Elecraft family, there is certain to be a number of us, with only  QRP 
experience,
jumping in and playing with gobs of RF energy for the very  first time. 
Let's

hear it from those with experience, some  do's, don'ts and caveats that go
along with running the legal limit. I  hate learning stuff the hard way...

Thanks,

Bill  K3UJ
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73,  Chas,  W1CG 


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