Re: [Elecraft] Begali and K2

2006-03-25 Thread Paul Heller

Vic K2VCO wrote:
keyers in my Elecraft K2 and TS850s. This problem can be described as 
an intermittent 'misfire', in which there is a delay before dot or 
dash generation starts after the contacts are closed.  
Aha (a light goes on ...).  I've had a Begali Signature for about a 
year, and from time to time I've noticed this, at least with dots when 
using the Begali with a Microkeyer.  My theory was that the contact 
might be dirty, since it felt like the dots were reluctant to start at 
random times.  My Profi doesn't do this - now I understand why.   Time 
to send a note to Piero about new contacts, I guess ...


/Paul
W3PH

--

Paul Heller
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Elecraft] Begali and K2

2006-03-25 Thread Rich McCabe

Paul,

My signature did come with the gold contacts and work great !

I guess your choice is buying contacts from Piero which are not going to be 
cheap and appear to be a time consuming install (not sure) or one of 
MicroHams debouncer cables.


I have the debouncer cable here but think I am going to send it back. Not 
sure what I think about a cable that requires a watch battery :)


73,

Rich
kd0zv

- Original Message - 
From: Paul Heller [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2006 6:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Begali and K2



Vic K2VCO wrote:
keyers in my Elecraft K2 and TS850s. This problem can be described as an 
intermittent 'misfire', in which there is a delay before dot or dash 
generation starts after the contacts are closed.
Aha (a light goes on ...).  I've had a Begali Signature for about a year, 
and from time to time I've noticed this, at least with dots when using the 
Begali with a Microkeyer.  My theory was that the contact might be dirty, 
since it felt like the dots were reluctant to start at random times.  My 
Profi doesn't do this - now I understand why.   Time to send a note to 
Piero about new contacts, I guess ...


/Paul
W3PH

--

Paul Heller
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] KSB2 Missing parts

2006-03-25 Thread Stephen John Farthing
Hi, I have just checked my inventory for the KSB2 and seem to be short 
of all of the components for mounting on the front panel board, i.e. : -


P1, c4-c8,q3,rp3,rbias and R13,

It seems to me that the parts must all have been in 1 envelope and this 
was omitted from my kit. Before I contact Elecraft for replacements I 
wonder if someone could confirm this so I can check the shack to see if 
the envelope has been stolen by the underpants gnomes.


Thanks,

Steve G0XAR
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RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 Missing parts

2006-03-25 Thread Don Wilhelm
Steve,

Unless something has changed at Elecraft packaging recently, those parts are
mixed in with all the rest (not packaged in a separate envelope).  So if you
have sorted all the parts and they are still not present, a note to
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] would seem to be in order.

Unless of course, you had extracted them earlier and already installed them
on the front panel board - check for the mic header on the back of the Front
Panel board.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Hi, I have just checked my inventory for the KSB2 and seem to be short
 of all of the components for mounting on the front panel board, i.e. : -

 P1, c4-c8,q3,rp3,rbias and R13,

 It seems to me that the parts must all have been in 1 envelope and this
 was omitted from my kit. Before I contact Elecraft for replacements I
 wonder if someone could confirm this so I can check the shack to see if
 the envelope has been stolen by the underpants gnomes.

 Thanks,

 Steve G0XAR
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[Elecraft] magnet wire

2006-03-25 Thread Jeremiah McCarthy
The magnet wire that Mouser sells is heat strip-able (Beldsol insulated), but 
not all magnet wire is heat strip-able...The magnet wire RS used to sell was 
not heat strip-able...The insulation on this wire is called Formvar and is 
suited for high temperature applications such as electric motors and power 
transformers...It must be mechanically or chemically stripped...Heat strip-able 
wire would fail under the high heat conditions encountered in some electric 
motors, like in power saws...The commutator connections in these motors are not 
soldered, they are swagged...

Jerry, wa2dkg
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[Elecraft] Missing KSB2 Parts?

2006-03-25 Thread F and J
Steve -

I'm building K2 # 5422 now, and am doing the Front
Panel board.

I believe the parts you are referring to, belong with
the KSB2 option, when and if you ever install one.

Fred Osborne
N3CSY

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[Elecraft] kx1 display flicker?

2006-03-25 Thread tom martin
happy weekend all. I am building Kx1 #1406. Have worked thru thr first build 
stage, everything is working well. Don't know if the display, that flickers and 
also shows a slight lighting after display is off is normal?  thanks.   

 Tom   km4cu
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[Elecraft] Missing (2) 3/4 Long Spacers?

2006-03-25 Thread F and J
I'm building K2 #5422, doing Front Panel board now!

I seem to be MISSING the two (2) 3/4 (19mm) LONG
SPACERS mentioned on page 26, for putting over leads
of each backlight LED shown in figure 5.9?

No were to be found, as far as I can see.  WHAT DO
THEY LOOK LIKE?  Paper?  Plastic? 

There are no spacers mentioned in appendix of
photos for this front panel board either?

Help
Thanks, 73's
Fred N3CSY
Spring Hill, FL

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Re: [Elecraft] Missing (2) 3/4 Long Spacers?

2006-03-25 Thread Nick Waterman
F and J wrote:
 I seem to be MISSING the two (2) 3/4 (19mm) LONG
 SPACERS mentioned on page 26, for putting over leads
 of each backlight LED shown in figure 5.9?
 
 No were to be found, as far as I can see.  WHAT DO
 THEY LOOK LIKE?  Paper?  Plastic? 

Aren't they the ones made out of little strips of PCB? I think they come
attached to the RF probe board, each one is just a little strip of PCB
with 2 holes in? It's used for switch-spacing first, then you break them
off and stick the LED leads through to use as the LCD spacers?

-- 
Nosey Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209.
use Std::Disclaimer;[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sweater, n.: A garment worn by a child when its mother feels chilly.
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[Elecraft] LCD Diffuser SPACERS? K2 # 5422?

2006-03-25 Thread F and J
I'm building K2 #5422, doing Front Panel board now!

I seem to be MISSING the two (2) 3/4 (19mm) LONG
SPACERS mentioned on page 26, for putting over leads
of each backlight LED shown in figure 5.9?

No were to be found, as far as I can see.  WHAT DO
THEY LOOK LIKE?  Paper?  Plastic?  Temporary?
Home made?

There are no spacers mentioned in appendix of
photos for this Front Panel PCboard either?

Help
Thanks, 73's
Fred N3CSY
Spring Hill, FL

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Re: [Elecraft] LCD Diffuser SPACERS? K2 # 5422?

2006-03-25 Thread PAøPJE

Fred,

They are part of the pieces PC board that is seen in fig. 5-1
That is the switch spacing tool. Part of it are the spacers.

73,
Peter PA0PJE

F and J schreef:

I'm building K2 #5422, doing Front Panel board now!

I seem to be MISSING the two (2) 3/4 (19mm) LONG
SPACERS mentioned on page 26, for putting over leads
of each backlight LED shown in figure 5.9?

No were to be found, as far as I can see.  WHAT DO
THEY LOOK LIKE?  Paper?  Plastic?  Temporary?
Home made?

There are no spacers mentioned in appendix of
photos for this Front Panel PCboard either?

Help
Thanks, 73's
Fred N3CSY
Spring Hill, FL

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Re: [Elecraft] LCD Diffuser SPACERS? K2 # 5422?

2006-03-25 Thread Peter - PAøPJE

Oh and btw, Fred,
This is on the same page;

quote

Locate the Spacer Set PC board (Figure 5-1). Using long-nose

pliers, carefully break out the pushbutton switch spacing tool and

the four backlight LED spacers. Break the material only at the four

indicated points. Note: The switch spacing tool doubles as the PC

board for the RF probe, which will be assembled later.

unquote

73,

Peter



- Oorspronkelijk bericht - 
Van: PAøPJE [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Aan: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Verzonden: zaterdag 25 maart 2006 17:47
Onderwerp: Re: [Elecraft] LCD Diffuser SPACERS? K2 # 5422?



Fred,

They are part of the pieces PC board that is seen in fig. 5-1
That is the switch spacing tool. Part of it are the spacers.

73,
Peter PA0PJE

F and J schreef:

I'm building K2 #5422, doing Front Panel board now!

I seem to be MISSING the two (2) 3/4 (19mm) LONG
SPACERS mentioned on page 26, for putting over leads
of each backlight LED shown in figure 5.9?

No were to be found, as far as I can see.  WHAT DO
THEY LOOK LIKE?  Paper?  Plastic?  Temporary?
Home made?

There are no spacers mentioned in appendix of
photos for this Front Panel PCboard either?

Help
Thanks, 73's
Fred N3CSY
Spring Hill, FL

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[Elecraft] Stupid Englishman confesses all

2006-03-25 Thread Stephen John Farthing
My only excuse is that my construction time is limited and it must have 
been 9 months or so since i soldered the missing parts on the control 
board and forgot to tick them off in the KSB2 manualas i am only 53 
does this count as a senior moment?.

Thanks to Don for pointing me in the right direction.

When will I ever learn to follow instructions?

Regards,

Steve
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RE: [Elecraft] Filter adjustments

2006-03-25 Thread Don Wilhelm
Tom,

Are those numbers filter widths (i.e. 1.60, 0.80, 0.40 and 0.20), or are
they ham bands?  You terminology was a bit confusing to me.

Assuming they are filter widths, first know that a 10 or 20 Hz shift in the
tone when changing filters is normal.  While that slight shift can be
disconcerting when heard, it will usually pose no problem in actual
operation.

You can try changing the width of the filter and the BFO setting by one
'click' or so to force new values to be written into the EEPROM, ome folks
have reported that they have eliminated the pitch shift in that manner.  If
the BFO frequency is on the edge of one of the digital value steps, forcing
it to the next value will help, but this is trial and error, so I offer no
guarantee.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Following the excellent advice on this forum, I set my cw filters
 using spectrogram.

 However, no matter how careful I am, my widest setting (at 160)
 always comes up a bit off - that is to say that when I tune in a
 signal to exactly zerobeat my 610 hz sidetone, the signal is spot
 on (so to speak) in the 80, 40 and 20 filters, but a bit off in 160.

 Probably just my anal nature, but I would love them to all be on.

 Any way to adjust just one of the filters without affecting them
 all - I have tried just doing the 160, saving that and
 restarting, but then the rest are out.

 TIA,  es 73

 Tom, KJ3D


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Re: [Elecraft] Filter adjustments

2006-03-25 Thread Vic K2VCO

Don Wilhelm wrote:


You can try changing the width of the filter and the BFO setting by one
'click' or so to force new values to be written into the EEPROM, ome folks
have reported that they have eliminated the pitch shift in that manner.  If
the BFO frequency is on the edge of one of the digital value steps, forcing
it to the next value will help, but this is trial and error, so I offer no
guarantee.


I do it like this:  Let's say the 400 Hz filter setting results in a 
pitch slightly different from the others.  Then I change the filter 
width to be either 380 or 420 Hz. and move the BFO setting one click to 
recenter it.  I have always been able to get them all the same by this 
method.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] RE: K2 40 tTr VCO lock

2006-03-25 Thread Don Wilhelm
Cary,

That means that your 40 meter band is not tuning at all.

I believe you have the K60XV option installed - enter the menu and set D19
to 'y' and re-check the voltage at the left end of R30 for all band edges.
With the K60XV installed, the usual extreme points can be found at 4000 kHz
and 5300 kHz - if you get these in range, the others will normall fall into
place properly provided the capacitors and varactors in the VFO range select
area are correct.

73,
Don W3FPR
  -Original Message-
  With the exception of the 40 meter band, the VCO alignment went by the
book -  7000 and 7300 Mhz both read 7.92 volts  and it does not vary as I
tune  between those frequencies.  I have checked the parts which were
replaced in adding the mods noted above and re-heated C-71 through 75 and
D-19  20.  Hooked it up for testing and it's still a rock solid 7.92 volts
on 7000 through 7300.

  L-30 is the correct inductor; T5 (wound by Mychael) and D21-26 all worked
the first time around on the VCO alignment so I doubt there's a problem
there.

  Does anyone on the reflector have any idea where I should look next?  If
so, I 'd appreciate it!

  73,
  Cary, K4TM
  Lynchburg, VA
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[Elecraft] Plug wiring for Model CMOS-4 Keyer

2006-03-25 Thread Gary H Evans
I would like to use my CMOS-4 keyer with my KX1. Can anyone help with the 
wiring of the cable between the keyer and the KX1? Thanks...Gary - AA6R
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Re: [Elecraft] magnet wire

2006-03-25 Thread John Young

I just checked the wire I got from http://www.qrpkits.com/magnetwire.html
 IS heat strip-able.  800F works fine.

John
WA8KNE


Jeremiah McCarthy wrote:

The magnet wire that Mouser sells is heat strip-able (Beldsol insulated), but 
not all magnet wire is heat strip-able...The magnet wire RS used to sell was 
not heat strip-able...The insulation on this wire is called Formvar and is 
suited for high temperature applications such as electric motors and power 
transformers...It must be mechanically or chemically stripped...Heat strip-able 
wire would fail under the high heat conditions encountered in some electric 
motors, like in power saws...The commutator connections in these motors are not 
soldered, they are swagged...

Jerry, wa2dkg
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[Elecraft] K2 AGC

2006-03-25 Thread John [K7SVV]
I have got the habit now on my K2 of turning off the AGC, cranking up the AF
gain and then using the RF gain to control the volume because the AGC has
too much effect on the receiver.  I thumbed through the manual and didn't
find any obvious way of adjusting the it.  How would I go about reducing the
AGC's effect?  The current AGC setting has little or no effect on the noise
when, with an antenna connected and no signal, I turn the AGC off and on but
it has a large effect on moderate and strong signals.

--
John   [K7SVV]
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[Elecraft] FS: Unbuilt KPA100

2006-03-25 Thread Larry Makoski W2LJ

Guys,

About a year ago I built a KPA100, fully intending to turn my K2 into a 
K2/100.  It hasn't happened and I doubt it's going to any time soon.  I 
am very, very happy being a QRP station! So it sits there in the box, 
going unused, which seems a shame.


So .. I have for sale this unbuilt KPA100 in it's original 
packaging, which I have to open because there's a 160 Meter module in 
there that I do want to keep.


It sells for $369.00 from Wayne and Eric.  I'll let this one go for 10% 
(or thereabouts) off. $330.00 plus UPS Ground shipping to your door 
(Sorry, USA only).


I accept PayPal for your convenience.

73 de Larry W2LJ

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[Elecraft] FS: UnBUILT KPA100

2006-03-25 Thread Larry Makoski W2LJ
About a year ago I bought a KPA100, fully intending to turn my K2 into a 
K2/100.  It hasn't happened and I doubt it's going to any time soon.  I 
am very, very happy being a QRP station! So it sits there in the box, 
going unused, which seems a shame.


So .. I have for sale this unbuilt KPA100 in it's original 
packaging, which I have to open because there's a 160 Meter module in 
there that I do want to keep.


It sells for $369.00 from Wayne and Eric.  I'll let this one go for 10% 
(or thereabouts) off. $330.00 plus UPS Ground shipping to your door 
(Sorry, USA only).


I accept PayPal for your convenience.

73 de Larry W2LJ

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[Elecraft] FW: K2 40 tTr VCO lock

2006-03-25 Thread H. Cary III
Problem solved!  Turned D19 in secondary menu to on' and all bands are now 
within the spec'd VCO range.  My thanks to Don, W3FPR, for suggesting this!!
73,
Cary, K4TM   K2 #5266



From: H. Cary III
Sent: Sat 3/25/2006 4:36 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: K2 40 tTr VCO lock


K2 #5266 aligned beautifully after I fixed C-6 which the Cheap 'N Dirty Signal 
Tracer found in about 2 flat.  I had it on the air and made about 100 cw 
contacts before adding some mods:  DSP, SSB, NB, 160 meters and 60 meters. I 
had a problem which was resolved but involved a master reset...so I started on 
a complete re-alignment today.
 
With the exception of the 40 meter band, the VCO alignment went by the book - 
 7000 and 7300 Mhz both read 7.92 volts  and it does not vary as I tune  
between those frequencies.  I have checked the parts which were replaced in 
adding the mods noted above and re-heated C-71 through 75 and D-19  20.  
Hooked it up for testing and it's still a rock solid 7.92 volts on 7000 through 
7300.
 
L-30 is the correct inductor; T5 (wound by Mychael) and D21-26 all worked the 
first time around on the VCO alignment so I doubt there's a problem there.
 
Does anyone on the reflector have any idea where I should look next?  If so, I 
'd appreciate it!
 
73,
Cary, K4TM
Lynchburg, VA
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[Elecraft] KXB3080 HELP KX1 will not turn on

2006-03-25 Thread Chuck Gehring
I have just finished Part I Modify the KX1 PCB section and now I am
attempting the steps for Alignment and Test -Part II for receiver alignment
to confirm that the modifications have been correctly installed.  Obviously
I messed something up.  Nothing happens during power up.  I get power up to
the power switch but when I turn on the switch nothing happens, no LED no
relays clicking nothing.  I had a KXB30 installed and completely removed the
KXB30 board and all wires.  I would really appreciate some help
troubleshooting this problem.
73 KI4DGH

Chuck Gehring
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RE: [Elecraft] KXB3080 HELP KX1 will not turn on

2006-03-25 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Chuck, KI4DGH asked:

I have just finished Part I Modify the KX1 PCB section and now I am
attempting the steps for Alignment and Test -Part II for receiver alignment
to confirm that the modifications have been correctly installed.  Obviously
I messed something up.  Nothing happens during power up.  I get power up to
the power switch but when I turn on the switch nothing happens, no LED no
relays clicking nothing.  I had a KXB30 installed and completely removed the
KXB30 board and all wires.  I would really appreciate some help
troubleshooting this problem. 

-

Do you have a metal screw holding the final amplifier mounting hardware
together, Chuck? 

If you put a metal screw in the final amp without the heat sink, you're
shorting the B+ to ground! 

Right off hand that's all I can think of at this point. All you've done is
remove the KXB30 module and reconfigure the receiver input circuit. That
doesn't involve any direct connections to the B+ circuitry. 

If it's not the 'screw in the final amplifier' bit (which probably half of
the KX1 owners have done with the unit open, including me!) I'd look very
closely for a solder bridge somewhere around the components you just
replaced or the transformer you added. 

Ron AC7AC

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RE: [Elecraft] KXB3080 HELP KX1 will not turn on

2006-03-25 Thread Chuck Gehring
Ron,
Thanks, That is exactly what I did.  I put the screw in there to hold the
nylon shoulder in place while I worked on everything.  I removed the screw
and power came on.  Its nice to know that I am in good company.  BTW I
noticed that if I had gone to the KX1 Manual for trouble shooting that the
manual would have told me what I did and could have spared myself the public
humiliation.

Thanks again
73 KI4DGH

Chuck Gehring

-Original Message-
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2006 7:05 PM
To: 'Chuck Gehring'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KXB3080 HELP KX1 will not turn on


Chuck, KI4DGH asked:

I have just finished Part I Modify the KX1 PCB section and now I am
attempting the steps for Alignment and Test -Part II for receiver alignment
to confirm that the modifications have been correctly installed.  Obviously
I messed something up.  Nothing happens during power up.  I get power up to
the power switch but when I turn on the switch nothing happens, no LED no
relays clicking nothing.  I had a KXB30 installed and completely removed the
KXB30 board and all wires.  I would really appreciate some help
troubleshooting this problem.

-

Do you have a metal screw holding the final amplifier mounting hardware
together, Chuck?

If you put a metal screw in the final amp without the heat sink, you're
shorting the B+ to ground!

Right off hand that's all I can think of at this point. All you've done is
remove the KXB30 module and reconfigure the receiver input circuit. That
doesn't involve any direct connections to the B+ circuitry.

If it's not the 'screw in the final amplifier' bit (which probably half of
the KX1 owners have done with the unit open, including me!) I'd look very
closely for a solder bridge somewhere around the components you just
replaced or the transformer you added.

Ron AC7AC
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RE: [Elecraft] KXB3080 HELP KX1 will not turn on

2006-03-25 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Chuck KI4DGH wrote:

Thanks, That is exactly what I did.  I put the screw in there to hold the
nylon shoulder in place while I worked on everything.  I removed the screw
and power came on.  Its nice to know that I am in good company.  BTW I
noticed that if I had gone to the KX1 Manual for trouble shooting that the
manual would have told me what I did and could have spared myself the public
humiliation.



Super. Those of us with the ready answers are usually those who have done
the same thing ourselves. 

Humiliation? Hardly. Just being human. I used to work on ships in port,
fixing things Sparky couldn't get right at sea. One of the first things
I'd say to Sparky when I went aboard was that he was going to be rather
irritated (P-O'd were the actual words) when I found the problem because
he'd know he had been looking at it all along. That was often true.
Sometimes it just takes a second pair of eyes to see what's under our noses
G 

Any other questions, please holler! I've probably already made the mistake.
It's called experience. 

Ron AC7AC

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[Elecraft] F/S K2 w/KPA100 KAT100 in EC2 Case

2006-03-25 Thread Mark Baugh
I have K2 s/n 4719, KPA100/KAT100 in EC2 case, KSB2
SSB OPTION, KIO2 RS232 I/F, K160RX 160 METER, KNB2
NOISE BLANKER, KAF2 AUDIO FILTER,  FDIMP FINGER
DIMPLE. All cables and manuals included. Price is
$1600 shipped.  Picture available upon request.

73,
Mark Baugh
W5EZY
Grenada MS

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[Elecraft] LP-100 Digital Vector Wattmeter kit

2006-03-25 Thread Larry Phipps


Just a reminder that Monday is the last day to get a guaranteed slot in 
the first production run of these unique kits. To order (or just peruse) 
visit www.telepostinc.com.


73,
Larry N8LP
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Re: [Elecraft] LP-100 Digital Vector Wattmeter kit

2006-03-25 Thread Alexandra Carter
If I were you, I'd not expect much enthusiasm until I listed some 
prices and how to order on the web page, I'd have one on order already 
if this were the case.


73 de Alex NS6Y

On Mar 25, 2006, at 7:17 PM, Larry Phipps wrote:



Just a reminder that Monday is the last day to get a guaranteed slot 
in the first production run of these unique kits. To order (or just 
peruse) visit www.telepostinc.com.


73,
Larry N8LP


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Re: [Elecraft] LP-100 Digital Vector Wattmeter kit

2006-03-25 Thread Vic K2VCO

Alexandra Carter wrote:
If I were you, I'd not expect much enthusiasm until I listed some prices 
and how to order on the web page


I found it at http://www.telepostinc.com/lp100.html, etc.  Click the 
links above the pictures of the units.  Very interesting.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] LP-100 Digital Vector Wattmeter kit

2006-03-25 Thread Alexandra Carter
OK looks like it's down there, in the grass. but there. Im more 
interested in the handheld unit, - at least the seller is right 
regarding PayPal, charge an extra fee, PayNotYourPal only wants 10% of 
all you make now, and 100% of all you have next week! 74 de NS6Y Alex.


On Mar 25, 2006, at 8:25 PM, Vic K2VCO wrote:


Alexandra Carter wrote:
If I were you, I'd not expect much enthusiasm until I listed some 
prices and how to order on the web page


I found it at http://www.telepostinc.com/lp100.html, etc.  Click the 
links above the pictures of the units.  Very interesting.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] LP-100 Digital Vector Wattmeter kit

2006-03-25 Thread Larry Phipps
The handheld unit will be for sale shortly. I will be showing both at 
Dayton, BTW. I haven't been assigned a booth number yet, but I'll post 
it when I have. I'll also be at QRP-ARCI vendor night with the handheld 
unit. There's also link to a comparison page with a good comparison of 
the three wattmeter products.


73,
Larry N8LP



Alexandra Carter wrote:
OK looks like it's down there, in the grass. but there. Im more 
interested in the handheld unit, - at least the seller is right 
regarding PayPal, charge an extra fee, PayNotYourPal only wants 10% of 
all you make now, and 100% of all you have next week! 74 de NS6Y Alex.


On Mar 25, 2006, at 8:25 PM, Vic K2VCO wrote:


Alexandra Carter wrote:
If I were you, I'd not expect much enthusiasm until I listed some 
prices and how to order on the web page


I found it at http://www.telepostinc.com/lp100.html, etc.  Click 
the links above the pictures of the units.  Very interesting.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] LP-100 Digital Vector Wattmeter kit

2006-03-25 Thread Alexandra Carter

OK that's OK, I have some Elecraft stuff to build!

I put a credit card order in to Universal Radio over a week ago, and a 
mailed-in order with a personal check in to Elecraft in yesterday's 
mail - which do you think Ill have in my hands first? I'm betting the 
Elecraft order will be here and built by the time I find out what's 
happened to my money at Universal Radio, much less have thing thing I 
ordered, if I get it from them. Once my 2nd KX1 etc is built, I can 
look at watt meters 73 de Alex NS6Y


On Mar 25, 2006, at 9:20 PM, Larry Phipps wrote:

The handheld unit will be for sale shortly. I will be showing both at 
Dayton, BTW. I haven't been assigned a booth number yet, but I'll post 
it when I have. I'll also be at QRP-ARCI vendor night with the 
handheld unit. There's also link to a comparison page with a good 
comparison of the three wattmeter products.


73,
Larry N8LP


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Re: [Elecraft] LP-100 Digital Vector Wattmeter kit

2006-03-25 Thread Larry Phipps


Well, the timing should be perfect then ;-) Enjoy the KX1 build.

73,
Larry N8LP


Alexandra Carter wrote:

OK that's OK, I have some Elecraft stuff to build!

I put a credit card order in to Universal Radio over a week ago, and a 
mailed-in order with a personal check in to Elecraft in yesterday's 
mail - which do you think Ill have in my hands first? I'm betting the 
Elecraft order will be here and built by the time I find out what's 
happened to my money at Universal Radio, much less have thing thing I 
ordered, if I get it from them. Once my 2nd KX1 etc is built, I can 
look at watt meters 73 de Alex NS6Y





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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2006-03-25 Thread Kevin Rock

Good Evening (it is nearly Good Morning :)
   It is very late here but I will get this out before I hit the hay.  
Long day fighting with software, hardware, weather, tc.  I was not able 
to get as much done as I would like but lately that seems to be normal.  
My to do list rapidly outpaces my ability to do.  However, I do see some 
progress and that is a plus.  Trouble is my projects each tend to generate 
two more projects producing scaling problems.  There seems to be only one 
of me.  Where do I truncate this never ending tree of projects?  Maybe I 
should look at one of those game algorithms for a hint at a limiting depth 
;)
   It looks like spring is gradually moving up the mountain.  The earliest 
flowers have ceased blooming at around 1000 feet to be replaced by the 
next set.  The snow in my yard is almost entirely gone though the 
surrounding higher elevations still hold their cover.  Each time the sun 
comes out to melt some the resulting evaporation causes the cloud cover to 
increase so the effect is self limiting.  According to the GOES satellite 
we are in a cloud stream.  The area near the mouth of the Columbia River 
is often where this stream remains for weeks at a time.  The difference in 
my weather and downtown Portland is often quite surprising.  I drive out 
of pouring rain only to be met by bright sunshine and dry roads.  By the 
time I get off the train the temperature can be 20 to 30 degrees warmer 
than when I started my commute.  My fellow passengers must wonder why I am 
dressed so warmly.
   Forty meters was very good two evenings this week.  Those were the only 
times I tested though so it may have been good all week.  A few skeds at 
0300z went on until we called it quits.  Light QSB was not a problem.  On 
Friday night we did have to deal with our neighboring SSB stations.  
Occasionaly they would wipe out a word or two but since human language is 
redundant we don't need to hear all the words to make sense of a 
sentence.  Unless, of course, that word is the principle verb or noun :)  
Context is everything and it is fun to work my friend so I dig that much 
deeper.
   If you  are not busy tomorrow evening why don't you join us on either 
twenty or forty meters?  You are welcome to join us on both.  I will be 
there.


Please join us:
Sunday 2300z (Sunday 3pm PST) 14050 kHz
Monday 0200z (Sunday 6pm PST)  7045 kHz

Hasta mañana,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS

Soon we should move back to 2400z and 0300z.
   KJR
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