RE: [Elecraft] KX1 #1403 Antenna Project
-Original Message- Jack wrote: I have been following the antenna threads since I started building the KX1. These experiments are based on that thread, the ARRL Handbook 2004, previous research into commercial verticals and my own experience. The goals are to find the best antenna for the KX1 under various operating conitions. 1. Smallest, lightest, easiest to set up 4 band backpacking antenna. 2. Smallest, lightest, easiest to set up for 1, 2, or 3 bands for backpacking. 3. Most efficent antenna for 4 bands but still backpackable. 4. Most efficent 1, 2, or 3 band antennas but still backpackable. 5. Learn Antenna Theory and Practice. Formulas, Software, Instruments - Good goals Jack. I'll note that 1 and 2 are exclusive of 3 and 4. I've seen backpackable 2-element quads built of lightweight telescoping tubes and collapsing poles that certainly qualify as the most efficient but they are definitely not the smallest, lightest and easiest to set up. Indeed, it's the tradeoff between the various issues that each of us are willing to live with that defines what we ultimately call our favorite portable antenna. Number 5 is always an excellent investment of your time and it'll demonstrate clearly that *where* you backpack has a great deal to do with your antenna choices. Steep mountain trails have a wholly different set of conditions and opportunities than, say, the seashore, which offers opportunities for getting excellent performance from some antennas that can't be duplicated anywhere else without a great deal of added complexity. Hopefully the genuine enjoyment will come out of learning about all those things and, in the process, you may well become one of those who offers some insights for the rest of us to use. After all, learning how to make something work better, and occasionally learning how to make something work that no one thought would is what Amateur Radio is all about. That's what Marconi did, and he liked to call himself the ...first radio amateur. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 #1403 Antenna Project
I have been following the antenna threads since I started building the KX1. These experiments are based on that thread, the ARRL Handbook 2004, previous research into commercial verticals and my own experience. The goals are to find the best antenna for the KX1 under various operating conitions. 1. Smallest, lightest, easiest to set up 4 band backpacking antenna. 2. Smallest, lightest, easiest to set up for 1, 2, or 3 bands for backpacking. 3. Most efficent antenna for 4 bands but still backpackable. 4. Most efficent 1, 2, or 3 band antennas but still backpackable. 5. Learn Antenna Theory and Practice. Formulas, Software, Instruments STARTING CONDITIONS DUMMY LOAD BAT FREQUENCY POWER SWR 12.43.5005 3.0 1.0 12.43.5600 3.5 1.0 12.47.0005 2.9 1.0 12.47.0580 2.9 1.0 12.410.1005 4.2 1.0 12.410.1495 4.2 1.1 12.414.0005 2.5 1.0 12.414.058002.4 1.0 38' TRAPPED , FLAT TOP DIPOLE, CUT FOR 7.040 PLUS/MINUS,40' HIGH. FEEDPOINT IS NEAR THE MAST FOR MY CUSHCRAFT MA5B. I REPLACED SOME OF THE GUYS FOR THE MAST WITH ROPE TO REDUCE AS MUCH INTERACTION AS POSSIBLE. WHEN I TAKE THE MAST DOWN AT THE END OF SUMMER FOR MAINTENANCE I PLAN TO REPLACE ALL GUYS WITH KEVLAR. BAT FREQUENCY POWER SWR 12.47.0005 4.2 1.2 12.47.0125 4.0 1.1 12.47.0255 3.5 1.0 12.47.0400 3.3 1.0 12.47.0580 3.0 1.0 NOTE: I HAVE MADE SEVERAL QSOS ON THIS ANTENNA WITH THE KX1 ALREADY. FIRST BACKPACKING ANTENNA. #534 WIREMAN TEFLON COATED ANTENNA WIRE. 29'6 RADIATOR. 2-29'.6 RADIALS. THIS WAS BASED ON THE RECOMMENDATIONS OF ELECRAFT IN THE KAT1 MANUAL BUT WITH 2 LONGER RADIALS. I INTENDED TO TRY BOTH ONE AND TWO RADIALS IN THE FIELD BUT IT STARTED TO SPRINKLE SO I QUIT BEFORE I COULD DO THE ONE RADIAL TEST. THE LENGTH OF THE RADIALS WAS BASED ON THE ARRL HANDBOOK RECOMMENDATION OF QUARTER WAVELENGTH RADIALS. 29' WAS CLOSE TO THE 1/4 WAVE LENGTH FOR 80 METERS. FUTURE TEST WILL INCLUDE MULTIPLE RADIALS FOR EACH BAND. I TOOK THE GEAR TO THE TOP OF STRAWBERRY HILL (AN ISLAND IN STOW LAKE HERE IN SAN FRANCISCO) AND HUNG THE ANTENNA AS A 45 DEGREE SLOPER FACING THE NORTH. BAT FREQUENCY POWER SWR 12.43.5600 ? 9.9 12.47.0400 3.5 1.1 12.410.025 4.3 1.1 12.414.000 2.9 1.3 12.414.020 2.9 1.3 12.414.040 2.9 1.2 12.414.058 2.9 MY FIRST FIELD QSO WITH KX1. 449 FROM WA!!! As this note took longer to write than I expected I'll leave my guesses as to what the figures mean till later. Now it's time for food and then some air time! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 #1403 Antenna Project
I have been following the antenna threads since I started building the KX1. These experiments are based on that thread, the ARRL Handbook 2004, previous research into commercial verticals and my own experience. The goals are to find the best antenna for the KX1 under various operating conitions. 1. Smallest, lightest, easiest to set up 4 band backpacking antenna. 2. Smallest, lightest, easiest to set up for 1, 2, or 3 bands for backpacking. 3. Most efficent antenna for 4 bands but still backpackable. 4. Most efficent 1, 2, or 3 band antennas but still backpackable. 5. Learn Antenna Theory and Practice. Formulas, Software, Instruments Starting Conditions. DUMMY LOAD BAT FREQUENCY POWER SWR 12.43.5005 3.0 1.0 12.43.5600 3.5 1.0 12.47.0005 2.9 1.0 12.47.0580 2.9 1.0 12.410.1005 4.2 1.0 12.410.1495 4.2 1.1 12.414.0005 2.5 1.0 12.414.058002.4 1.0 38' TRAPPED , FLAT TOP DIPOLE, CUT FOR 7.040 PLUS/MINUS,40' HIGH. FEEDPOINT IS NEAR THE MAST FOR MY CUSHCRAFT MA5B. I REPLACE SOME OF THE GUYS FOR THE MAST WITH ROPE TO REDUCE AS MUCH INTERACTION AS POSSIBLE. WHEN I TAKE THE MAST DOWN AT THE END OF SUMMER FOR MAINTENANCE I PLAN TO REPLACE ALL GUYS WITH KEVLAR. BAT FREQUENCY POWER SWR 12.47.0005 4.2 1.2 12.47.0125 4.0 1.1 12.47.0255 3.5 1.0 12.47.0400 3.3 1.0 12.47.0580 3.0 1.0 FIRST BACKPACKING ANTENNA. #534 WIREMAN TEFLON COATED ANTENNA WIRE. 29'6 RADIATOR. 2-29'.6 RADIALS. THIS WAS BASED ON THE RECOMMENDATIONS OF ELECRAFT IN THE KAT1 MANUAL BUT WITH 2 LONGER RADIALS. I INTENDED TO TRY BOTH ONE AND TWO RADIALS IN THE FIELD BUT IT STARTED TO SPRINKLE SO I QUIT BEFORE I COULD DO THE ONE RADIAL TEST. THE LENGTH OF THE RADIALS WAS BASED ON THE ARRL HANDBOOK RECOMMENDATION OF QUARTER WAVELENGTH RADIALS. 29' WAS CLOSE TO THE 1/4 WAVE LENGTH FOR 80 METERS. FUTURE TEST WILL INCLUDE MULTIPLE RADIALS FOR EACH BAND. I TOOK THE GEAR TO THE TOP OF STRAWBERRY HILL (AN ISLAND IN STOW LAKE HERE IN SAN FRANCISCO) AND HUNG THE ANTENNA AS A 45 DEGREE SLOPER FACING THE NORTH. BAT FREQUENCY POWER SWR 12.43.5600 ? 9.9 12.47.0400 3.5 1.1 12.410.025 4.3 1.1 12.414.000 2.9 1.3 12.414.020 2.9 1.3 12.414.040 2.9 1.2 12.414.058 2.9 MY FIRST FIELD QSO WITH KX1. 449 FROM WA!!! As this note took longer to write than I expected I'll leave my guesses as to what the figures mean till later. Now it's time for food and then some air time! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Serial # 5600
Darwin, Keith wrote: Come to think of it, who ever decided that keeping track of SNs was a good idea? I've seen interest in SNs with other rigs but only to identify new vs. old and whether a rig has the latest mods or not. But then I guess Elecraft is not like other rigs. That makes them almost like collector's items, doesn't it? number 5209 of 5600 made, only problem being they're increasingly less limited editions :-) -- Nosey Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209. use Std::Disclaimer;[EMAIL PROTECTED] IBM: I Blame Mathematics ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] How to test noise blanker
KD1E added to another comment: The NB was optimized to block out ignition noise from UPS trucks. Proper testing requires you order more stuff from Elecraft so UPS will return. Actually, it was quite tricky coming up with a circuit to block out the ignition noise from a diesel engine I would hate to imagine what the running costs are of that petrol cement lorry N3CSY blanked out - they probably have the most dear product around! I believe there was mention in the past that the K2's NB was optimized to some extent on a VW Transporter (replace with model name used in your market) of vintage I have forgotten. The state of motor vehicle ignition systems in NA must have deteriorated significantly in the past 20 years, as here in maintenance-prevention-not-preventative-maintenance Asia it's not much worse than back there back then it's other noise (like power) where a NB gets the most use. Or presumably there are a lot of VW-based buggies or other less quiet petrol internal combustion engine powered devices to be encountered in the great NA outdoors nowadays. Remember, there is nothing wrong with the NB - you just need to have the right noise. Perhaps it would be better to call it something else, as NB does imply something of what it will do based on what other rigs' NBs do (unlike AUX I/O ;^). Then there would not need to for the ever repeating defend-the-NB thread here, usually starting with somebody wondering in a post if their recently completed NB works as it doesn't seem to behave as they expected it to (read last sentence of last paragraph again). 73, VR2BrettGraham ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Iambic Myth
I've done a couple of read's through that article. While it has many good points, it also has some glaring errors which make it somewhat uncredible to me. E.g. when listing the letters that benefit from squeeze technique, the list is limited to C, F, K, L, Y, Q and R. When listing the letters that are most commonly used and then identifying those that are squeezable, R is left off the list. So instead of 1 in 12 being squeezable, the right number is 2 in 12, thus doubling the efficiency. If we're willing to accept the idea that squeezing with thumb and index finger is more efficient than rocking the hand back forth, then we can add A and N to the list as they can be sent with one squeeze motion. Now the list of squeezable chars climbs to 4 in 12. Other thoughts like If you force yourself to squeeze every possible character, you will expend more time and effort in learning to do that, than any possible efficiency savings are not universally true. I suppose if I were an experienced bug user trying to learn Iambic it may have some validity but in my case I went to Iambic from a straight key and had no built-in bias against Iambic. I don't have to force myself to do anything with the keyer. Squeeze keying comes naturally as it is all I've ever known. Sending with a Cootie key - now that is something I have to think about! The other mentioned disadvantage of Iambic is that it has a speed ceiling where sending faster than 40 wpm or so is too difficult. I have a ceiling on receiving that kicks in long before 40 wpm so that is absolutely not an issue. Just because the speed champs use non-iambic does not make that method better any more than a race car is better than a mini-van. The article is very interesting and a good read, much like a 20/20 report. Bottom line? Don't let the attempt to bust a myth steal your fun. If you like Iambic, go for it (A or B - your choice). If you think it's stupid, fine, use a single paddle key, bug, cootie or join me and use a straight key! It's not so much how you send, but THAT you send, Yes? 73! - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411 - -Original Message- http://www.morsex.com/pubs/iambicmyth.pdf ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: first checks resist kx1
Hi Andy and Paul, I just completed my KX1 about a week ago. I don't have any suggestions for you, but I can say that all of my resistance checks for part 1 (page 26) were within the specifications listed in the manual. With a few hours of actual on-air use logged I can now say the KX1 is a great little rig. So keep at it and good luck! 73 Paul - N8XMS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 4-sale (new #5422)
For Sale: Brand new, most recent K2 # 5422: - K2 # 5422 (latest version K2, May 2006) - KSB2 SSB Option (May 2006) - Ten Tec 701 Mobile Mike - KNB2 NB Noise Blanker (June 2006) - Dimple - Toroid-Guy TOROID SET (K2, KSB2, KNB2) - 100% low ros - Kester Solder (mil std) - CW/SSB Filters - aligned Spectrogram 5.7 All tests, alignments to spec. Dummy load SSB checked. Built by a EE/Ham with tons of building experience. A brand new K2, with CW SSB Noise Blanker. Full set of Toroid-Guy Toroids, throughout! Built with best Kester solder. Please contact off-line. We are building another ham project. $800 total, incl. SH and insurance, to mainland U.S. All Elecraft manuals docs. Fred, N3CSY [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cape Vincent, NY 6/29/2006 __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FOR SALE: KX1 1447 WITH FOUR BANDS TUNER AND PADDLE
I have for sale KX1 serial #1447. It's about two months old. Included options are: KXB3080 Four Band Board KXAT1 Auto Internal Tuner KXPD1 Paddle Six Slightly Used Lithium batteries The radio works and looks like new. I have built three K2s, a K1, two KX1s, two Elecraft transverters, and just about all the options. I enjoy the building process. I will sell the radio and options listed above for what they cost me, $502.00 + $8.00 shipping in the US. So you get a KX1 for the Elecraft price, built for free. Please respond off list. Thanks, Roger Marrotte, W1EM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Iambic Myth
KD1E: I've done a couple of read's through that article. While it has many good points, it also has some glaring errors which make it somewhat uncredible to me. Some good points Keith. If someone wanted to analyze this to death they would weight the analysis by frequency of occurrence of letters in ordinary conversation. Of course this is not an issue in the HST tests since they send random 5 letter code groups. The other mentioned disadvantage of Iambic is that it has a speed ceiling where sending faster than 40 wpm or so is too difficult. I have a ceiling on receiving that kicks in long before 40 wpm so that is absolutely not an issue. Competition is the ultimate measure of efficiency IMHO. Believe me, most competitors would learn to send standing on their heads if they felt it would improve their results. The simple fact is that the non-iambic single-paddle method has been proven better in QRQ competition. Just because the speed champs use non-iambic does not make that method better any more than a race car is better than a mini-van. I agree completely. Just because some claim iambic is more efficient, does not make it better. Non-iambic has been proven better for QRQ speeds or for people whose hand coordination (for squeeze timing) may not be good due to age or other disabilities such as palsy, MS, etc. My good friend N4SU (now SK) had to give up his hobby of some 70 years because his trembling hands could not send due to Parkinson's disease. I didn't realize it at the time or I would have suggested he stop trying to send iambic with dual-paddles and switch to a single-paddle key, which is much more forgiving of timing errors. My point is don't always take conventional wisdom as as gospel. Sometimes we simply need to find what works best for us individually (as you said). 73, Bill W4ZV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Wanted Kent Single Paddle Key
Want to buy clean Kent Single Paddle key. Bob W7WO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] American Morse Paddle?
I have one too and don't plan to give it up, BTW rather than screwing down the nuts and hoping they'll stay, I use washers for shims and just tighten it all down, it stays put, the paddle's a bit rattly but I like it. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jun 28, 2006, at 7:50 PM, Sam Binkley wrote: Anyone have a American Morse Paddle gathering dust in their pile of 'I never use this thing I should get rid it' ~ Steve/n0tu - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 #1403 Antenna Project
Well, it's probably the Pac-12. Add 1-2 more of those sections to the part below the coil, use plenty of radials, and try something I saw someone set up, they just use the 40m coil with a jumper with an E-Z Hook on it to select turns for higher bands. It's a nice antenna! 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jun 28, 2006, at 10:39 PM, Jack Regan wrote: I have been following the antenna threads since I started building the KX1. These experiments are based on that thread, the ARRL Handbook 2004, previous research into commercial verticals and my own experience. The goals are to find the best antenna for the KX1 under various operating conitions. 1. Smallest, lightest, easiest to set up 4 band backpacking antenna. 2. Smallest, lightest, easiest to set up for 1, 2, or 3 bands for backpacking. 3. Most efficent antenna for 4 bands but still backpackable. 4. Most efficent 1, 2, or 3 band antennas but still backpackable. 5. Learn Antenna Theory and Practice. Formulas, Software, Instruments ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Remoting at T1
Folks, My HF antenna consists of a 28 ft vertical with eight 20-foot elevated radials. I use an SGC autotuner at the feedpoint for multiband coverage and I'm very satisfied with the setup. Coax from the shack to the antenna is buried. When my K2 is completed later this summer I will complete my conversion to 100% QRP by selling my Yaesu FT-857 and the SGC tuner, but this wasn't intended to be a For Sale message. I'll replace the SGC with an Elecraft T1 (I want to use it on an FT-817 as well). I like the idea of installing the tuner at the antenna feedpoint, hence my question: Has anyone remoted a T1 before? I was thinking of doing this by bringing the Tune switch contacts to a small jack on the side of the case (assuming there's room) and plugging in a relay that I could energize from the shack, i.e., closing the relay contacts would replace pushing the Tune button. I'll see the results on my SWR meter, so the LEDs on the T1 wouldn't be missed. The T1 would be installed in a weatherproof cabinet, which could also house the relay...and the slick way to do the switching would be to send 12V down the coax. I assume that this configuration would work better than using the T1 in the shack for multiband operation, but maybe I'm wrong. Good idea? Dumb idea? Has it been done? Thanks and 73, Ken Alexander VE3HLS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Remoting at T1
Ken Alexander wrote: When my K2 is completed later this summer I will complete my conversion to 100% QRP by selling my Yaesu FT-857 and the SGC tuner Most of the SGC tuners will work at 5 watts. I think the T1 is neat, but why bother replacing the SGC, waterproofing the T1, etc? You can still build a T1 and use it for portable operations! I assume that this configuration would work better than using the T1 in the shack for multiband operation, but maybe I'm wrong. You're right. On those bands where the SWR and reactance are high, having the tuner at the antenna base is an advantage. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FW: Re: Iambic Keying
Bill, I can really empathize with you; I was there about a year ago. Not quite the 807 generation, I was the 6146 generation (early 60s) and still have the straight key I used as novice. When I build my K1, I had all the same questions you did. For example: which paddle do I use for the di and for the dah? Like a bug (di on the thumb, I think) or reverse? If reverse, why? It seems that the instructions with the K1 assumes the builder already knows this. I started relearning the code after a few decades absence by using a free code course by K7QO. You learn the letters at a high speed but with lots of space in between. Before long, I was back up to 8 wpm, then 10wpm, and now about 14wpm. You can get the same course on a CD by visiting http://www.fists.org/hamsite.html and following the directions. Its really very good (and challenging!) Like you, I wondered about iambic keying and what all the bother was about. I prefer the use of keyers because it makes it easier for me to send good CW that can be copied at the other end. Using a K1 as well as FT-1000mp, I do as much practice sending and I do receiving so that it is smooth. Im also pursuing ARRL Code Proficiency at 15 wpm (now have 10 wpm) and using the ARRL Code programs starting at 35 wpm (can anyone REALLY copy that fast? Wow ) downward and the Bulletins at 18 ½ wpm. Am doing a lot of practice? You bet. Others may want to practice on the air; my preference is do it off-line until I am at a proficiency level that Im comfortable with, and Im almost there! Like you, I wondered about the iambic fuss. Since I do not have several decades of use as a CW op, I started to learn iambic. Im probably not squeezing like I should (for C, L, etc), and perhaps I never will, but Im delighted when I do. It sounds so cool to have the di and dah in a C so perfectly timed; it does take practice, though. Im starting to listen in on the ECN (see the message from Kevin). Ive tried only once to break in and havent made it yet. Putting up a new antenna this weekend might cure that. The Elecraft folks are so kind, so join in. Finally .if you EVER want to find a home for your Lionel key, I hope you keep me in mind. The other hobby I have is Lionel model railroading 73, Clark Macaulay, ke4rq ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] How to test noise blanker
-Original Message- Can anyone recommend a way to test my new K2 noise blanker? The simplest way to test the KNB2 is to rub a screwdriver across Q21 - the RF Preamplifier- a metal case transistor which is visible when the K2 top is removed. That will generate the kind of noise that it is supposed to suppress. Search the archives with keywords q21 noise and you will find more about this test. Good luck! 73 Sverre LA3ZA http://www.qslnet.de/la3za/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Remoting at T1
Hi, Ken! It's very easy to remote a T1. There already exists a 3.5mm stereo jack on the side of the T1's case. Get a 3.5mm Stereo phone plug and wire the normally open contacts of your relay across the ring and ground connection on the jack (no connection to the tip). This will duplicate the functionality of the PWR/Tune button on the front of the T1. 73, Brian Broggie - W6FVI Elecraft Parts Ken Alexander wrote: Folks, My HF antenna consists of a 28 ft vertical with eight 20-foot elevated radials. I use an SGC autotuner at the feedpoint for multiband coverage and I'm very satisfied with the setup. Coax from the shack to the antenna is buried. When my K2 is completed later this summer I will complete my conversion to 100% QRP by selling my Yaesu FT-857 and the SGC tuner, but this wasn't intended to be a For Sale message. I'll replace the SGC with an Elecraft T1 (I want to use it on an FT-817 as well). I like the idea of installing the tuner at the antenna feedpoint, hence my question: Has anyone remoted a T1 before? I was thinking of doing this by bringing the Tune switch contacts to a small jack on the side of the case (assuming there's room) and plugging in a relay that I could energize from the shack, i.e., closing the relay contacts would replace pushing the Tune button. I'll see the results on my SWR meter, so the LEDs on the T1 wouldn't be missed. The T1 would be installed in a weatherproof cabinet, which could also house the relay...and the slick way to do the switching would be to send 12V down the coax. I assume that this configuration would work better than using the T1 in the shack for multiband operation, but maybe I'm wrong. Good idea? Dumb idea? Has it been done? Thanks and 73, Ken Alexander VE3HLS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS: American Morse Paddles
Now that I've got the American Morse paddles out and dusted them off, would anyone like to buy them for $45 delivered conus. Used very little since I got the Palm paddles. Bob Baxter aa7eq ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] w0rw/pm KX1 at USNO Tonight
i will be operating pedestrian mobile using my KX1 on a 10 foot whip from the US Naval Observatory tonight (Thus) at z on 14,060z. USNO is in Washington D.C. Have you ever worked the 51st State? 'Taxation Without Representation' is on their license plates. Paul w0rw/3/pm ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Remoting a T1
Thanks everyone for pointing out that Elecraft has already taken care of controlling the T1 remotely! Needless to say that was all it took to push me over the edge...my order went in about a half hour ago! 73 and thanks again, Ken VE3HLS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Remoting a T1
Ken ... Good decision! Actually, you may not even need to use a relay, but just remote a switch to your operating position with a twisted pair cable. I'm planning on doing a similar thing with my vertical setup this summer, although my cable run is a lot shorter than yours will be. 73 ... Craig AC0DS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 #1403 Antenna Project
The whole concept of radials is to improve the conductivity path for return current to the base of the vertical antenna, when the antenna is not a complete half wave dipole, (and therefore, balanced and a complete radiator unto itself). You are replacing always lossy (to some degree), earth or rock, with copper conductors. The vertical of whatever length produces return currents that flow to couple into the earth, from the high tip of the antenna. There is some curvature of these return current paths, but generally speaking the tip current will traverse a path and reach ground (earth) about the same distance out from the base of the antenna, as the antenna element length or less due to the curvature of current paths. Therefore, there is probably no reason to make the radials a quarter wave long exactly, if the radiator element is not a quarter wave long. In addition, the presence of radials close to earth couples with capacitance such as to detune the electrical length of the physical radial. That quarter wave length you cut will not be electrically a quarter wave lying upon the ground. When you are backpacking, you may be upon stony ground in one place and good earth somewhere else. (Good in terms of RF character). You will have differing amounts of earth coupling. To get the full benefit of quarter wave radials, then, they would need to be elevated some distance above earth. Fortunately, with elevated radials, you get some benefit as to length and it has been found you no longer need a physical quarter wave length. Thus, if you pick an antenna length for its being easy to backpack, and at least 60 per cent of the full resonant antenna length, you get a shorter load to carry, but also you benefit from the current return path being no taller height than your antenna, such that radials can be less than quarter wave and still provide a good current return to the base of the antenna. SWR can be good as being near one to one, and you can still have a lossy vertical or other antenna. Don't get too wrapped up with seeking 1:1. A good quarter wave vertical is not 50 ohms, ever. And thus, if the vertical is quarter wave resonant, you will never have 1:1 SWR. But, that is OK. The goal is maximum field strength. The character of the surrounding terrain 2 to 5 waves out from the antenna will have more effect on reflections that could give you reflection gain, and help your antenna work well in terms of skip. In every back packer's kit should be a simple field strength meter, which can consist of a miniature meter movement, a diode and a RF bypass capacitor. This detector and a short whip can be used at some standard distance from your antenna over flat terrain to establish a normal field reading. Then, when you set up in a camp, you can quickly check if the antenna is radiating as well as it did when you first tested it under controlled conditions. Note the meter reading or mark the scale where your antenna tuned up best on your standard antenna range, and you will be able to ensure you are getting out if that mark is reached by the field strength during backpacking operations. -Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KX1 #1403 Antenna Project
What Stuart says about radials is quite true, but there is another important reason for a tuned radial (or other ground connection) other than to improve the efficiency of an end-fed wire. Consider the end-fed dipole; it's probably the most extreme example of what I'm talking about. Fed at the end, a dipole (1/2 wave radiator) presents a very high impedance to the source. Hence, the RF voltage at the feed point will be very high. Without a ground on the ATU and rig, the whole rig will tend to float at a high RF voltage. At QRP you may not notice any RF bites or burns (although you certainly can get burns at less than 5 watts under the right conditions) but other problems abound. RF gets into the controllers and other logic in the rig causing erratic operation, and just touching the rig may detune the whole system, because of your body capacity to ground. An electrically 1/4 wave long radial connected to the rig ground can prevent these problems since a 1/4 wave wire has an impedance of only 35 ohms. That means that the rig case and ground will see an impedance of only 35 ohms, maximum, to ground even though the feed point at the hot side of the antenna connection may be looking into thousands of ohms. The Elecraft ATUs, like most tuners, can't handle the very high impedance of an end-fed dipole. Still, they can match to a sufficiently-high impedance that RF on the rig can easily become a problem, as many have reported here on the reflector. Usually a 1/4 wave long wire, elevated a few feet off the ground (over 6 feet if it's where people might walk into it) is a good investment. Another approach, as Stuart observed, is a wire on the ground that will capacitively couple to it and help hold the RF voltage on the rig down. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft]linux and elecraft
On Wed, 2006-06-28 at 08:28 -0400, Tom Althoff wrote: Here are three roughly equivilent Linux terms for Macafee AV and Symantec/Norton AV.. F-Prot RAV (Reliable Anti Virus) Clam AV. Those aren't really equivalent. Those may run on Linux, but they are generally used on mail servers and file servers to protect Windows clients from viruses. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 #1403 Antenna Project
Good points Ron. I usually call those RF control radials, an RF counterpoise, as sometimes you can use one cut for each band of concern and run it around the baseboard of a shack. I like to think of a radial as an outside wire, and counterpoise as an insulated inside the shack RF control aid. But, the word counterpoise seems not to have as good a general meaning as radial has come to mean to hams. Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Antennas for KX-1
I've been following the 4-band antennas for KX-1 thread. Interesting and a real challenge for field operations. K2HYD's idea of a 51 foot antenna and counterpoise was helpful. Some additional thoughts- the ATU in the KX-1 is a little limited, as compared to other larger ATUs with more combinations, so we need antenna lengths which are relatively close to 50 ohms and nonreactive. The G5RV has already been done, but I am thinking of getting out my MFJ bridge thingie and trying flattop/feeder, or antenna/counterpoise length combinations (other than the G5RV) that will work well, and repeatably with the KX-1 internal ATU. Seems to me there have to be many flattop/feeder or antenna/counterpoise length combinations. 73 Jay W6CJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Antennas for KX-1
In an earlier post, I mentioned using a small inductor - such as some enameled wire wound on a plastic 35-mm film can - with a number of tap points to add inductance to the antenna. It goes in series with the hot side of the KX1 output. That will usually let you adjust the electrical length of the antenna to bring it within range of the ATU without having to go out and fiddle with the length of the radiator itself. The KX1 ATU is more limited than the other Elecraft ATUs but it still has a very useful range. It's not necessary to be close to 50 ohms non-reactive for the KXAT1 to provide a good match. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I've been following the 4-band antennas for KX-1 thread. Interesting and a real challenge for field operations. K2HYD's idea of a 51 foot antenna and counterpoise was helpful. Some additional thoughts- the ATU in the KX-1 is a little limited, as compared to other larger ATUs with more combinations, so we need antenna lengths which are relatively close to 50 ohms and nonreactive. The G5RV has already been done, but I am thinking of getting out my MFJ bridge thingie and trying flattop/feeder, or antenna/counterpoise length combinations (other than the G5RV) that will work well, and repeatably with the KX-1 internal ATU. Seems to me there have to be many flattop/feeder or antenna/counterpoise length combinations. 73 Jay W6CJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KSB2 R15
I am building the KSB2, and R15 (180 ohms) is missing. Can I substitute a 220 ohm resistor for this? It is the attten signal on the Mic AF. Mike AI4NS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
