Re: [Elecraft] Antennas for KX-1

2006-06-30 Thread Paul - VE1DY

I was out of town on a business trip this week, which gave me a good
opportunity to try the antenna suggested by Bruce.  I used his 68'
with the 33' counterpoise.  The kx1 obtained a flat match on 20, 30
and 80, but 40 was 1.9.

I then tried Ron's suggestion.  I had a 13' piece of wire so I wrapped
it around my glasses case, which was approx 1.5 x 2.5, and this gave
me a flat match on 40, but drove the swr up on the other 3 bands.
It's not much trouble to clip/unclip the glassed case coil, so I was
quite pleased.  I will now make a small coil and keep it with the
antenna.

This set up worked very well for me.  Thanks Bruce and Ron.

Paul



On 6/29/06, J. Coote [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I've been following the 4-band antennas for KX-1 thread.  Interesting and a
real challenge for field operations.  K2HYD's idea of a 51 foot antenna and
counterpoise was helpful.

Some additional thoughts-  the ATU in the KX-1 is a little limited, as
compared to other larger ATUs with more combinations, so we need antenna
lengths which are relatively close to 50 ohms and nonreactive.

The G5RV has already been done, but I am thinking of getting out my MFJ
bridge thingie and trying flattop/feeder, or antenna/counterpoise length
combinations (other than the G5RV) that will work well, and repeatably with
the KX-1 internal ATU.

Seems to me there have to be many flattop/feeder or antenna/counterpoise
length combinations.

73
Jay
W6CJ

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--
QRP-L #2507,  SKCC #91
www3.ns.sympatico.ca/ppike
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[Elecraft] New K2

2006-06-30 Thread Paul Mayo
Looks like Christmas has arrived early as my K2 S/N 5627arrived last week...   
As soon as I get over jet lag, will be time to play some hooky from work and 
start building it.

Paul W4MAY
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RE: [Elecraft] K2FCTR instructions

2006-06-30 Thread Don Wilhelm
The instructions for the frequency counter probe are on page 45 of the Rev F
K2 manual and the RF probe schematic is shown on page 9 of Appendix E.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Where are the instructions for building the K2FCTR/Frequency Probe ?  I
 have the kit but can't seem to find how to build.


 thanks
 kw5tx
 steve


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Re: [Elecraft] Antennas for KX-1

2006-06-30 Thread Alexandra Carter

(1) Wire up in a tree,
(2) Pac-12.

Between those two, you're taken care of with the KX1. 73 de Alex NS6Y.

On Jun 29, 2006, at 6:20 PM, J. Coote wrote:

I've been following the 4-band antennas for KX-1 thread.   
Interesting and a
real challenge for field operations.  K2HYD's idea of a 51 foot  
antenna and

counterpoise was helpful.

Some additional thoughts-  the ATU in the KX-1 is a little limited, as
compared to other larger ATUs with more combinations, so we need  
antenna

lengths which are relatively close to 50 ohms and nonreactive.

The G5RV has already been done, but I am thinking of getting out my  
MFJ
bridge thingie and trying flattop/feeder, or antenna/counterpoise  
length
combinations (other than the G5RV) that will work well, and  
repeatably with

the KX-1 internal ATU.

Seems to me there have to be many flattop/feeder or antenna/ 
counterpoise

length combinations.

73
Jay
W6CJ

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[Elecraft] OT - iMac Macintosh G5 for sale

2006-06-30 Thread Alexandra Carter
Is this OK to post? I have an iMac G5, a little over a half a gig of  
ram, 17 inch screen, works great, photos on request, $700, rather see  
someone on the EleList get it, tired of the flakes on Craigs List, 73  
de Alex NS6Y.


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RE: [Elecraft] KXAT1 calibration

2006-06-30 Thread Don Wilhelm
Mike,

You are doing the steps correctly - EXCEPT - after you see 'CAL' in the K2
menu, exit the menu by tapping the menu button twice (be certain you get
back to the frequency display).  The ATU will now be locked into the CAL
state.

Then press the MENU and BAND buttons together to enter tune mode - the
display should indicate the power output with the KXAT1 installed (it shows
'tun' with only the base KX1).

Tap any button to exit the TUNE mode.

After you are done with the calibration, go back into the menu and set the
KXAT1 to tun so it will tune the antenna when you press the MENU and BAND
buttons.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 Following my interpreation of the calibration steps, I tap menu
 to gain ATU. I rotate the VFO switch to find CAL.  Now my
 understanding is to hold both Menu and Band while still in CAL to
 enter TUNE.  If that's correct I have a problem.  I can not
 access Tune while in CAL.  I can use the VFO to go to TUNE, but
 that's not using the Menu and Band switches, which I interprate
 as no longer being in CAL.  Is that correct??  Boy, am I
 confused.  Any help would be appreciated.  73 Mike K4ELV



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RE: [Elecraft] first checks resist. kx1

2006-06-30 Thread Don Wilhelm
The '1k' means that any resistance reading between 1k and infinity is
acceptable.  Readings below 1k are an indicator of a problem.

Similarly, '50' means any resistance below 50 ohms are good, but anything
above 50 is not good.

Substitute other numbers for the '1k' and '50' as required.

You often find better results if you use a fixed range on your DMM rather
than using the auto-ranging.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 The more than and less than are a bit confusing to me
 so can someone tell me if the following are within
 tolerence?



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[Elecraft] KSB2 and microphone gain

2006-06-30 Thread Piet Meindertsma
I just completed a number of mods for the SSB module, described by KI6W 
('Improving the Performance of the KSB2'), by DF7KHK (increase of audio 
compression) and by DJ3FR (change R8 and R10 to 560 Ohm). After these 
modification I played a bit with the radio. During a contest last 
weekend I noticed that the SSB signal is fine. When listening to my own 
microphone signal (SSBA set to BAL), I noticed that the audio level 
varies by the band chosen (listening to the audio with a headphone). As 
with the SSBA set to BAL the output of the KSB2 is directly fed into the 
IF of the K2 receiver, I would expect a more constant level. My test 
results (using the S-meter as an indication for the signal strength) below:


band  signal strength
160m  S9+40
40m  S9
30m  S9
20m  S7
17m  S8
15m  S9
12m  S9
10m  S9

As you can see:
the signal is very strong when the K2 is set to 160 meters and 
relatively weak at 20 meter. I am not (yet) complaining, just very 
curious how this difference can be explained.
(When I have some time again I want to perform the same tests, but than 
transmitting into a dummy oad and using an Icom 706 as a monitor receiver).


Piet, PA1PM

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[Elecraft] K2/100SSB partial disassembly/assembly help

2006-06-30 Thread Mark
I just received a terrific pre-built K2/100/SSB unit.  It works wonderfully, 
but it
would appear that I need to get inside and fiddle with the front panel jumpers
to configure the microphone.  I have an appropriate kenwood 8-pin mic and 
when plugged-in - it simply ignores it.  I have checked the firmware menu 
settings and they appear good.

However, being fat fingered and mechanically incompetent, I am reticent to start
pulling modules out.  I took out enough screws out  to get the top cover loose, 
and the front panel loose, but I can't determine from the manual(s) if the 
front panel pulls UP or pulls OUT from the main assembly.  The rig seems to 
work so beautifully that I'm terrified of pulling out wires, etc. and never 
getting it back into working shape.  I noticed that the little machined 
rectangular screw holders came loose and I had to
get my hemostat out and gingerly get them back into place before I could get 
all the
covers screwed into place.

Anyone want to point me in the direction of disassembling enough of the radio 
so I
can configure the microphone jumpers?Yes, the manual is a good place to 
start, 
but it just says to take the front cover off and set the jumpers...

Regards,

Mark Stevens - N5EAT
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RE: [Elecraft] K2/100SSB partial disassembly/assembly help

2006-06-30 Thread Darwin, Keith
P 40  41 of the K2 manual walks you through the process of hooking the
display  control boards together and to the main (RF) board.  Use that
as the final guide.

To get the display off, you'll have to take a few screws out and just
pull forward.  Make sure you remember to get the screw that holds the
control board to the display board.  If you have the DSP or AF, that may
have to be unplugged / unscrewed as well.

- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 - 

-Original Message-
From:  Mark

I just received a terrific pre-built K2/100/SSB unit.  It works
wonderfully, but it would appear that I need to get inside and fiddle
with the front panel jumpers to configure the microphone.  
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RE: [Elecraft] K2/100SSB partial disassembly/assembly help

2006-06-30 Thread Don Wilhelm
Mark,

OK, there needs to be a document 'How to disassemble your K2' for those who
purchased the K2 already built.  Sure the instructions are there in the
manual, but they are spread out over the entire manual since that is
something that is learned in pieces during the build process.

Try this set of instructions:
-
The process to get to the mic configuration header is to remove the top
cover or KPA100 (6 screws).

Next, check to see if it has the KDSP2 or KAFT2 installed (to the left,
oriented vertically, behind the control panel) - if so, remove the screw
located near the center of that board (if it is the KDSP2, you will have to
remove the outer board first to get to the fastening screw - just pull that
out of the header pins observing proper anti-static procedures).  After
removing the screw, you can pull the board out by moving it toward the rear
of the K2.

There are two screws holding the control board to the front panel - if you
look down between the two boards, you will see the hex standoffs - remove
the screws from inside the K2 (or 1 screw and 1 standoff if you had the KAF2
or KDSP2 installed).

Now remove the 4 screws holding the Front Panel (located on the outside
covers) and pull the Front Panel and its board straight out to the front.
The mic configuration header is located on the back of the front panel near
the mic jack.

It takes more effort to put the process in words than to do it.  Do it once
and you should be a pro, it is not difficult.

Compare the mic header wiring with the listing of common ham mics in the
KSB2 manual.  If you did not receive documentation with your K2, you can
download the manuals from the Elecraft website as .pdf files.  Be aware that
many Icom mics have electret elements and need a resistor from 5 volts to
the AF mic pin - this resistor is commonly soldered to the back of the mic
jack if it is needed.

You will have to determine the properties and pinout for your particular mic
(it would be nice if they were 'standard', but alas, there is a large
variety of differences).  I can only help on the K2 side.


73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 I just received a terrific pre-built K2/100/SSB unit.  It works
 wonderfully, but it
 would appear that I need to get inside and fiddle with the
 front panel jumpers
 to configure the microphone.  I have an appropriate kenwood 8-pin mic and
 when plugged-in - it simply ignores it.  I have checked the
 firmware menu settings and they appear good.

 However, being fat fingered and mechanically incompetent, I am
 reticent to start
 pulling modules out.  I took out enough screws out  to get the
 top cover loose, and the front panel loose, but I can't determine
 from the manual(s) if the front panel pulls UP or pulls OUT from
 the main assembly.  The rig seems to work so beautifully that I'm
 terrified of pulling out wires, etc. and never getting it back
 into working shape.  I noticed that the little machined
 rectangular screw holders came loose and I had to
 get my hemostat out and gingerly get them back into place before
 I could get all the
 covers screwed into place.

 Anyone want to point me in the direction of disassembling enough
 of the radio so I
 can configure the microphone jumpers?Yes, the manual is a
 good place to start,
 but it just says to take the front cover off and set the jumpers...

 Regards,

 Mark Stevens - N5EAT


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[Elecraft] K2 VFO band to band accuracy?

2006-06-30 Thread Solosko, Robert B (Bob)

I recently added a CW tuning indicator to my K2 (a very useful addition). The 
other night I was listening to W1AW code practice and wanted to see how well I 
picked it up one each of the bands on which code practice is sent. Tuning to 
W1AW on 160m, the side tone of the W1AW signal was essentially right at 600 Hz, 
as indicated by the CW tuning indicator. Switching to 80m and tuning to the 
W1AW frequency, there was a slight but noticeable difference in side tone and I 
had to tune up about 20 Hz to be in the center of the CW tuning indicator band 
width. On one of the other bands on which I could pick up W1AW (either 20m or 
40m, I don't recall which one), the difference in side tone when tuned to the 
W1AW frequency was even more noticeable, and the CW tuning indicator didn't 
even light up until I tuned up about 40Hz. So, either W1AW's transmitting 
frequency accuracy isn't very good (not likely), or there is this noticeable 
variation in VFO frequency display accuracy from band to !
 band in my K2. The difference is not very large (max of about 40 Hz) and is 
really not a problem, but it's enough that it's clearly detectable, both 
audibly and with the CW tuning indicator. Has anyone else noticed this, and is 
there anything I can do to get the tuning accuracy better across all of the 
bands?

Thanks

Bob 
W1SRB
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100SSB partial disassembly/assembly help

2006-06-30 Thread Joseph Reed
Don,
 
You are so correct and most of us who have built them are all to framiliar with 
the process.  Since Mark is going to use a Kenwood microphone there might not 
be any need to pull the front panel,  just the control board.  (Unless the 
builder soldered the jumpers.)
 
Taking a leap of faith, it should (hopefully) be  just pulling off the existing 
header and jumpering across the pins with standard jumpers that are available 
at Radio Shack everywhere.
 
Regards,
Joe N9JR

- Original Message 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mark [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 1:33:39 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2/100SSB partial disassembly/assembly help


Mark,

OK, there needs to be a document 'How to disassemble your K2' for those who
purchased the K2 already built.  Sure the instructions are there in the
manual, but they are spread out over the entire manual since that is
something that is learned in pieces during the build process.
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 VFO band to band accuracy?

2006-06-30 Thread Darwin, Keith
I remember the day when 1000 Hz readout was considered very good.  That
got you close enough that you could find the net or your scheduled QSO.
Xtal calibrators told us where the band edges were and we were in good
shape.

Then came digital displays with resolution to 100 Hz.  Wow!  Was that
slick.  Now our rigs display frequency to 10 Hz.

I'm not convinced having that additional resolution is worthwhile.  It
may even be distracting.  We tune WWV, the display says 9.999.94 and
somehow we feel we're off frequency.

Do you remember the days when we tuned in a signal based on how it
sounded rather than based on what the display said?

- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -

-Original Message-
From: Solosko, Robert B (Bob)

... Switching to 80m and tuning to the W1AW frequency, ... I had to tune
up about 20 Hz to be in the center of the CW tuning indicator band
width. On one of the other bands ... the difference ... was even more
noticeable, ... about 40Hz. 
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 VFO band to band accuracy?

2006-06-30 Thread Don Wilhelm
Robert,

First, W1AW frequencies may vary from time to time - I have found the
frequency on 14 MHz off as much as 40 Hz from their nominal frequency in the
past few months - I don;t know if they have corrected that yet or not.

40 Hz accuracy is not too bad at all!  It has not been long ago when we had
analog dials, and if the accuracy was 1 kHz or better we considered that it
was quite accurate.  Transceiver dials are just not precision frequency
counters (my precision frequency counter cost more that a K2 and it was
used).

Due to digitizing steps and the fact that the dial readout is limited to 10
Hz steps, the best expected dial accuracy for the K2 should be in the
vicinity 20 to 30 Hz.  It is even possible to get it within 10 Hz with a lot
of work.  Add to that the region of uncertainty for the CW tuning indicator
(which will vary with signal strength - mine is about 30 Hz wide) and you
can easily add up a 40 Hz uncertainty error with only a 10 Hz inaccuracy in
the K2 dial reading.

If you want to try to improve your K2 dial accuracy, check out the K2 Dial
Calibration article on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com - that will give
you several resources as well as the procedure for accurately setting the K2
dial.

The variation from band to band comes as a result of the K2 displaying the
calculated result of the VCO setting that is stored in EEPROM.  The K2 does
not actually measure the frequency on a real-time basis.  The calibration
process (CAL PLL and CAL FIL) determines the dial readings, and these are in
turn dependent on the accuracy you achieved when setting the 4 MHz reference
oscillator.  Use the N6KR method for the greatest accuracy, but you must
tune the reference standard station in exactly to be successful.  Note that
the 4 MHz oscillator only needs to be accurate during the CAL PLL and CAL
FIL process, it does not have to remain stable for subsequent accurate dial
readings because the dial readings do not depend on the 4 MHz reference for
a real-time reference.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 I recently added a CW tuning indicator to my K2 (a very useful
 addition). The other night I was listening to W1AW code practice
 and wanted to see how well I picked it up one each of the bands
 on which code practice is sent. Tuning to W1AW on 160m, the side
 tone of the W1AW signal was essentially right at 600 Hz, as
 indicated by the CW tuning indicator. Switching to 80m and tuning
 to the W1AW frequency, there was a slight but noticeable
 difference in side tone and I had to tune up about 20 Hz to be in
 the center of the CW tuning indicator band width. On one of the
 other bands on which I could pick up W1AW (either 20m or 40m, I
 don't recall which one), the difference in side tone when tuned
 to the W1AW frequency was even more noticeable, and the CW tuning
 indicator didn't even light up until I tuned up about 40Hz. So,
 either W1AW's transmitting frequency accuracy isn't very good
 (not likely), or there is this noticeable variation in VFO
 frequency display accuracy from band to !
  band in my K2. The difference is not very large (max of about 40
 Hz) and is really not a problem, but it's enough that it's
 clearly detectable, both audibly and with the CW tuning
 indicator. Has anyone else noticed this, and is there anything I
 can do to get the tuning accuracy better across all of the bands?

 Thanks

 Bob
 W1SRB
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 Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.7/379 - Release Date: 6/29/2006



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[Elecraft] K2 disassembly Instructions - Thanks for the excellent replies

2006-06-30 Thread Mark
All:

I appreciate so much the thoughtful replies to my request to help me jumper my
K2 so I can use a mic.   The original owner had put the DSP module in as well, 
and 
I was surprised to see how full the radio was when I took the top off.  He 
also
said he thinks he set it up in the default Kenwood mode, but the mic I have (an 
MC-43s) is completely ignored by the radio.  Some of the other past posts have 
led me to believe that the mic is not wired for the rigs config vs. something 
being wrong with the
radio.

Thanks again.  

Mark Stevens - N5EAT
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[Elecraft] K1 Ready!

2006-06-30 Thread Krister Eriksson
Now my K1 #2215 is ready, working fine but yet need some fine tuning..
I have reactivated an old blog, http://krerik.blogspot.com/ there
you can see a few pics...  More to come when i have been on air later
this summer!

73 / CU de SM5KRI Krister Chris
-- 
[ [EMAIL PROTECTED] ]



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[Elecraft] subscription cancellation

2006-06-30 Thread Stokest977
please remove me from list
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[Elecraft] KX1 Transmitting Problem

2006-06-30 Thread Jason Davis

Hey Guys,

So last weekend I posted an message asking for help with my KX1.
After taking the top off, I thought I found the problem so I corrected it.
It appears I did not fix the problem for long.  Yesterday, after calling CQ
a few times, the same problem reared its ugly head again.

The problem:  The radio will sporadically transmit (almost constantly) a
series of dahs for no apparent reason.  After this happened last
weekend, I opened the case, and I thought the leads for the key jack ( J3 )
were not trimmed enough causing a short when the case was closed.  So I
trimmed the leads and all was well for a week.

I have had the rig for about a month now and it has operated flawlessly for
several weeks ( made several contacts ).  So it appears this problem has
developed over time.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Jason
n9avg
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[Elecraft] Resistor Types on control board

2006-06-30 Thread hobergenix
Are the 1% resisrors R7, R8, R9, R10 metal film resistors?

Mike N6IMF
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RE: [Elecraft] Resistor Types on control board

2006-06-30 Thread Don Wilhelm
Mike,

I cannot give an absolute answer, but since most 1% resistors are metal-film
type, the answer I can give is 'quite probably'.

I am just wondering why you have asked.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 Are the 1% resisrors R7, R8, R9, R10 metal film resistors?

 Mike N6IMF


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[Elecraft] Another KX1 is on the air

2006-06-30 Thread Lou Laderman
KX1 s/n 1517 with a KXAT1, my first kit in many years, was built over
several evenings and days a few hours at a time. I even rolled my own
toroids.  Worked like a champ the first time!  I'm hooked!

73,

Lou, WØFK


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[Elecraft] K2 Power Control Settings Using a QRO Amp

2006-06-30 Thread Roy Morris
The K2/100 has two ALC circuits.  One is found on the K2 Control Board 
(MAX534).  This ALC works in the CW mode.  The other is found on the KSB2 Board 
and works in the SSB mode.  This is the Tracking Automatic Level Control 
(TALC).  Tuning up a QRO amp by holding the K2 TUNE and RF/ALC buttons (in any 
mode) produces the correct amount of CW RF power from the K2/100 for the 
desired QRO output.  To obtain the same desired SSB peak power output it is 
necessary to turn the POWER control down.  
I have the PSK31 KSB2 ALC Time Constant Change Mod installed, but John 
Grebenkemper (KI6WX) says he does not think the change in time constant would 
be an issue.  He says this mod was designed to increase the hold time for the 
TALC to what is used in most transceivers.
I understand the complexities of measuring peak sideband power so it can be 
assumed there is a certain amount of error in the reading.  With that said I 
still wonder why these two ALC circuits don't more closely track each other for 
the same POWER control setting.  Thirty five watts in the CW mode results in 
1000 watts of output in my case.  Fifteen watts of modulated SSB results in 
1000 peak watts.  I would like to know if others using QRO amps find similar 
amount of variance in the POWER control.  Thanks.  Roy Morris  W4WFBNo virus found in this outgoing message.
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Re: [Elecraft] Another KX1 is on the air

2006-06-30 Thread Thom R LaCosta

On Fri, 30 Jun 2006, Lou Laderman wrote:


KX1 s/n 1517 with a KXAT1, my first kit in many years, was built over
several evenings and days a few hours at a time. I even rolled my own
toroids.  Worked like a champ the first time!  I'm hooked!


Congratulations!  You might want to add it to the Elecraft Online Database at
http://www.zerobeat.net/qrp/k2data.html

73,Thom-k3hrn
www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring,
QRP IRC channel, Drake IRC Channel, Elecraft Owners Database
www.tlchost.net/hosting/  ***  Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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