[Elecraft] KPA-100 Problems

2006-07-27 Thread David Walker
Hi Guys,

I am having problems with the KPA-100.  80m reports of distorted audio, like a 
vibrating effect associated with it.  And even when I have the PO adjusted to a 
max of 15 watts it seems to transmit up to 60w out.  I know it's not RF 
feedback caused by antenna because I have the same problem with a dummy load.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Dave
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[Elecraft] de-sensitizing C22

2006-07-27 Thread Vern Kollas
Good morning to all

First of all my K2 (base CW) is finally complete and
has passed all of the basic tests with flying colors. 
Now that I can receive on all bands, I decided to go
back and do a more thorough calibration of the 4MHz
reference clock and then start on the filters before
moving on to build the SSB module and the 100W amp. 
After reading through some of the reflector archives,
checking some of other resources on the Elecraft site
and passing some emails back and forth with Tom, N0SS,
I finally got a good understanding of how the
calibration works and what needed to be done.  I am
able to get pretty close, in fact I had it within 50Hz
to start with, and at one point had it at about 23Hz
off.  However, that is about as good as I have been
able to get it. Once I get to a certain point, just
breathing seems to move the frequency when adjusting
C22.  I know I am really close, but I would love to
see if I can really get it closer.  So my question for
the group here is there any way to make C22 not so
sensitive to even just touching it with an alignment
tool??  I have read where some have added a cap in
parallel with C22 to extend the range, but would
this also help it to not be so touchy to adjust??  Or
should I just look to replace C22 entirely with a
different cap??

I know I shouldn't be quite so picky, but hey, that is
the fun of building the radio.  You can tweak things
and make it do what you need/want it to do.  I also
must say that I am REALLY impressed with this radio so
far.  It does receive very well, and the filters seem
to be working VERY well with just the default
alignment.  I am really getting excited to see how
well it will work once I get Spectrogram and do it
right.

Anyway, thanks for letting me ramble on here and
thanks in advance for the help!!

73!

Vern -- KC8YOH  

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[Elecraft] General SMD Soldering Question

2006-07-27 Thread Wyn Hughes
This is distantly related to the mainstream of QA on this net.I intend to use 
my new K2 to drive a Icom IC-2KL amplifier. Please imagine for now, there is an 
intermediate amp between the K2 and the 2KL.

One of the twin PA boards on the 2KL ( a backup, I have 2 of them) is 
unfortunately, smoked. My immediate task is to solder a pair of 1KV Syfer  
ceramic SMD 0.1 mfd caps between two troubled pcb tabs in the PA output 
coupliing stage, where the previous incumbents were vaporized, by previous 
owner. I think he/she ran it into a low R/high C load on 80 or 160.

This is a heavy solder job at least as heavy as the KPA100 (judging from the 
manual). I think I may need to solder extension tabs to the caps, which are 
about 5mm wide, to bridge a 10-15mm gap between the tabs on the PA board. Of 
course, I need to clean up all the carbon residu on the PA board and tidy up 
the tabs first.

How does one go about this task? Is a solder iron loke a Hakko 936 the best 
tool or should I use a hot air SMD soldering unit or even an oven? Should I use 
solder paste or ordinary 63/37 Kester 44? What temps shuld one use? I normally 
run the Kester 44 at 750F, as per the recommendation on their website.

Comments  much welcomed.

Wyn, VR2AX

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RE: [Elecraft] de-sensitizing C22

2006-07-27 Thread Don Wilhelm
Vern,

Use a long slender metal screwdriver that nicely fits into the cap slot and
you will find it much easier to adjust.  If you are using the alignment tool
supplied with the K2, it is too flexible for precise adjustment.  If you
mounted C22 the right way 'round, the adjustment slot should be grounded, so
you can use a metallic screwdriver without changing the capacitance.

I must admit that it is still a bit 'touchy', but it is much less so with a
solid tool.

I believe it was John Grebenkemper KI6WX who wrote something up on changing
the range of C22 a while back - it should take a  smaller capacitor in
series with the trimmer (change C21) as well as adding a cap in parallel
with the trimmer to get the total capacitance value back where it should be.
It might be on the LA3ZA mod list.
http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/K2/mod.html , but you could experiment
with the values to get the trimmer range that you want.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 First of all my K2 (base CW) is finally complete and
 has passed all of the basic tests with flying colors.
 Now that I can receive on all bands, I decided to go
 back and do a more thorough calibration of the 4MHz
 reference clock and then start on the filters before
 moving on to build the SSB module and the 100W amp.
 After reading through some of the reflector archives,
 checking some of other resources on the Elecraft site
 and passing some emails back and forth with Tom, N0SS,
 I finally got a good understanding of how the
 calibration works and what needed to be done.  I am
 able to get pretty close, in fact I had it within 50Hz
 to start with, and at one point had it at about 23Hz
 off.  However, that is about as good as I have been
 able to get it. Once I get to a certain point, just
 breathing seems to move the frequency when adjusting
 C22.  I know I am really close, but I would love to
 see if I can really get it closer.  So my question for
 the group here is there any way to make C22 not so
 sensitive to even just touching it with an alignment
 tool??  I have read where some have added a cap in
 parallel with C22 to extend the range, but would
 this also help it to not be so touchy to adjust??  Or
 should I just look to replace C22 entirely with a
 different cap??

 I know I shouldn't be quite so picky, but hey, that is
 the fun of building the radio.  You can tweak things
 and make it do what you need/want it to do.  I also
 must say that I am REALLY impressed with this radio so
 far.  It does receive very well, and the filters seem
 to be working VERY well with just the default
 alignment.  I am really getting excited to see how
 well it will work once I get Spectrogram and do it
 right.

 Anyway, thanks for letting me ramble on here and
 thanks in advance for the help!!

 73!

 Vern -- KC8YOH


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[Elecraft] KPA100 spurs

2006-07-27 Thread Marteinn Sverrisson
Hi

I just installed a new X1 XTAL 18.432, as a part of upgrading
the KPA100. I used components obtained locally.
Stability of KPA100 is improved, at least it stopped oscillating
on 17m band when I use SSB.

But Now I find lots of spurs.

Here is a list:

18.080, 21.415, 24.903, 24.984, 28.015, 28.260, 28.671, 29.314

these are definetly from X1 as the freq shifts when PA is turned on
by setting the power 10w.

Any suggestions

73, Matti
-- 
   Marteinn SverrissonTF3MA
  Langitangi 2Internet: tf3ma [at] raunvis [dot] hi [dot] is
270 Mosfellsbær   http://www.raunvis.hi.is/~tf3ma
   Iceland
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RE: [Elecraft] General SMD Soldering Question

2006-07-27 Thread Don Wilhelm
Wyn,

If you have the hot air gun or oven and solder paste and know how to use it,
by all means go that route, but if not, then just use the Hakko - you will
be soldering two widely spaced tabs on the capacitors rather than finely
spaced leads like are encountered on SMD ICs.  Yes, the Kester 44 will work
just fine if the diameter is small enough to properly control the amount of
solder applied.

If the copper area is large, crank the heat on the Hakko a bit higher or use
a larger iron.

Since you have a 15 to 20 mm gap on the PC board, why not use capacitors
with leads rather than the SMD variety (unless you already have the SMD caps
in hand).  The extension tabs that you add will likely have just as much
inductance as the capacitor leads.  Of course, if this amp is for use at
VHF/UHF, then  any extra inductance may matter, but likely not for HF.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 This is distantly related to the mainstream of QA on this net.I
 intend to use my new K2 to drive a Icom IC-2KL amplifier. Please
 imagine for now, there is an intermediate amp between the K2 and the 2KL.

 One of the twin PA boards on the 2KL ( a backup, I have 2 of
 them) is unfortunately, smoked. My immediate task is to solder a
 pair of 1KV Syfer  ceramic SMD 0.1 mfd caps between two troubled
 pcb tabs in the PA output coupliing stage, where the previous
 incumbents were vaporized, by previous owner. I think he/she ran
 it into a low R/high C load on 80 or 160.

 This is a heavy solder job at least as heavy as the KPA100
 (judging from the manual). I think I may need to solder extension
 tabs to the caps, which are about 5mm wide, to bridge a 10-15mm
 gap between the tabs on the PA board. Of course, I need to clean
 up all the carbon residu on the PA board and tidy up the tabs first.

 How does one go about this task? Is a solder iron loke a Hakko
 936 the best tool or should I use a hot air SMD soldering unit or
 even an oven? Should I use solder paste or ordinary 63/37 Kester
 44? What temps shuld one use? I normally run the Kester 44 at
 750F, as per the recommendation on their website.

 Comments  much welcomed.

 Wyn, VR2AX



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[Elecraft] FS: KX1 built and tested

2006-07-27 Thread Andrew Moore
For Sale:
Selling because I am going to build my own QRP rig.

KX1 #1046
with KXPD1 paddles
with KXB30 module (30 meters)
with KXAT1 internal auto tuner

Clean, high quality build.
Original owner.  Works perfectly,
on 20/30/40 meters.
Comes with all documentation.

$450 plus shipping at actual cost.
Payment by US postal money order.
Shipments to US only.

http://www.photogs.org/out/kx1/kx1.jpg

http://www.photogs.org/out/kx1/kx1all.jpg



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RE:[Elecraft]KSB2

2006-07-27 Thread Richard Kent
Before you send it off. Check the diodes. I installed 1 backwards and got
the same issues. I am referring to the switching diodes on both ends of the
crystal filter.

 

Richard Kent, WD8AJG

 

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Fw: [Elecraft] 4 mHz and C22 bandspread mod

2006-07-27 Thread Mike Harris
G'day,

Time flies, I didn't realise it was so long since this was posted.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO

- Original Message - 
From: KEN BROWN [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net


| From: John, KI6WX [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 20:51:50 -0700
| Subject: [Elecraft] 4 MHz Oscillator Mod for Easier Adjustment
| The reflector traffic seems to indicate that some folks are having
| trouble
| setting their 4 MHz oscillator to the desired frequency.  I added the
| following changes to my K2 4 MHz oscillator about 2  years ago to 
improve
| both its settability and its frequency stability.  The mod increases the
| bandspread of C22 and significantly reduces the drift in the oscillator.
| The drift reduction will only effect the K2 frequency accuracy if you do
| a
| CAL PLL at a different temperature than when you first set the 4 MHz
| oscillator frequency.  I haven't tested this change on any other K2 so I
| don't know if it will work for all 4 MHz Xtals.
|
| The change requires two 10pF N750 capacitors.  Replace C21 with one of
| the
| 10pF capacitors.  Solder the other 10pF capacitor across X2, the 4 MHz
| Xtal.
| With this change, the correct frequency is obtained with C22 in about 
the
| middle of its range.  If you don't need the frequency stability
| improvement,
| you can use 10pF NPO capacitors.
|
| If this change doesn't work in your K2, it can easily be backed out by
| removing both capacitors and re-installing the original C21.
|
| -John
| KI6WX

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[Elecraft] Blown R58 relpaced, still no power out, does anyone have any hints?

2006-07-27 Thread Stephen John Farthing

Hi Guys,

A few weeks ago I managed to induce a fault into my K2 by transmitting 
into no load when testing the top band option. I found that R58, the 180 
ohm, half watt resitior at the far end of T4 had been damaged and had a 
value of 4 ohms. So I replaced it and reassembled the K2 and I still 
have no power out. Before I remove all of the options (ATU, Top Band and 
SB) and take it back to basics, which will take time will not have for a 
month or so, can anyone suggest other components I might 
check.everything else seemed ok including the PA Transistors..


Also, what is the purpose of R58? Sorry guys but i am just not as clever 
as the rest of you, I do software for a living, not electronics...but I 
am learning..


Regards,

Steve G0XAR
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[Elecraft] test, disregard

2006-07-27 Thread PE1E
My emails bounce, I try again.
Peter,PE1E


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RE: [Elecraft] Blown R58 relpaced, still no power out, does anyone have any hints?

2006-07-27 Thread Don Wilhelm
Steve,

With R58 almost a direct short, there is a possibility that the PA
transistors were conducting too hard and caused their untimely demise.  But
it would be best to check the RF voltages first before drawing any drastic
conclusions like that.  There actually could be any number of guesses about
what has failed (everything in the transmit chain) and you need to narrow
the field a bit.

If you do not have one, build the RF Probe shown in the K2 manual
(Troubleshooting appendix, page 9).  Then set the K2 power to 5 watts and
check the RF Voltages at the points indicated on page 14 of the Transmit
Signal Tracing starting with th Xmit Mixer Output - if you are lucky enough
to have a signal greater than that indicated continue along the steps until
you find the stage where the signal drops significantly.  OTOH, if you don't
have enough RF at the Xmit Mixer Output, move back to page 12 second column
and do the steps properly from the beginning.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 A few weeks ago I managed to induce a fault into my K2 by transmitting
 into no load when testing the top band option. I found that R58, the 180
 ohm, half watt resitior at the far end of T4 had been damaged and had a
 value of 4 ohms. So I replaced it and reassembled the K2 and I still
 have no power out. Before I remove all of the options (ATU, Top Band and
 SB) and take it back to basics, which will take time will not have for a
 month or so, can anyone suggest other components I might
 check.everything else seemed ok including the PA Transistors..

 Also, what is the purpose of R58? Sorry guys but i am just not as clever
 as the rest of you, I do software for a living, not electronics...but I
 am learning..

 Regards,

 Steve G0XAR


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[Elecraft] K2: Can't get frequency counter to work on TP2

2006-07-27 Thread Spence Wilhelm

Hi,

I finished construction of my K2 (serial #5400) last month and all was
working well.  At the time of construction all of the filter alignment went
well.  It has been lots of fun... I'm selling my Yaesu.  :-)

Since then I decided to calibrate the VFO on my K2 to get the frequency
better aligned.  I don't have an accurate frequency generator so followed
the instructions in the manual and used WWV as my source.  That all went
fine but when I went into Cal Fil and wanted to make a change to one of the
filters got an 'info 230' message.  I searched the list and found that was
related to the microprocessor not seeing the BFO frequency during a CAL
FIL.  I verified that the frequency probe works by doing a CAL FCTR with the
probe on TP1.  When I move it to TP2 it always shows 0.00.  When I first
aligned it last month it worked but not now.

So... I checked the following...  I verified that Q24 is getting turned on
via V ALC when CAL FCTR is enabled.  I see 7.26V DC when V ALC is on, zero
otherwise.

Used my RF probe to find the following RMS voltages for Q24.

V ALC On
Q24  drain5.99 V
Q24  source  2.02 V
Q24 gate  0 V

V ALC off
Q24  drain 9 mv
Q24  source 15 mV
Q24  gate   0 V


It looks like the FET is turning on and off according to V ALC.  I used my
scope to look at TP2 and can see a nicely formed wave form at around 4Mhz,
But can't detect it with the internal frequency counter and probe.  So to
verify the probe and counter works I used the frequency probe to verify
04913.34 MHz on pin 6 of U11  but it shows 0.00 when moved back to TP2
Really confusing...

Nothing jumps out at me.  Its been years since I did any serious
troubleshooting. :-)  Anybody have any ideas about what I can do?

73,

Carroll (W7CSW)
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RE: [Elecraft] KPA-100 Problems

2006-07-27 Thread Steve Kavanagh
A few recent units have shown problems that at least
sound similar to this one. See, for example:

http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2005-03/msg00676.html

http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2005-12/msg00408.html

These two, at least, were due to the KSB2 ALC circuit
having insufficient attenuation range to control the
output of K2/100's with above-average overall transmit
gain on the lower bands.  The fix involves adding a
resistor and changing another in the KSB2.  Gary
Surrency at Elecraft was able to provide me the
necessary details.

73,
Steve VE3SMA



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[Elecraft] Building the XG-3

2006-07-27 Thread Dr. Dan Swartling
While building the K1, I had to come up with a signal source for alignment 
on 30m and 17m. The Norcal tuner upper for 30m (10116 kHz)  works great as 
a signal source, but I had to resort to a noise generator for 17m.


So I figured I could build myself an XG-3, the WARC band signal generator. 
I ordered another XG-2, and replaced the 20m, 40m and 80m crystals with the 
following:


X1 - 24906 kHz (12m)
X2 - 18096 kHz (17m)
X3 - 10106 kHz (30m)

I could have used the 18100 kHz crystal left over from building the K1 for 
X2, and the 10116 kHz crystal stolen from a second Tuner Upper kit for X3. 
I purchased the crystals I used from Expanded Spectrum Systems for $2.55 
each. It seems to works just fine!


The last thing to do was place little labels over the silk screened numbers 
on the board. Put a 12 sticker over the 20, a 17 sticker over the 40, 
and a 30 over the 80.


One final sticker - place a XG3 WARC sticker over the XG2 on the board.

If I am not the first to do this, then I apologize for the waste of 
bandwidth. Otherwise, feel free to build your own or bug Eric and Wayne 
into making this an official kit.


Dan

-
KX1 #1507
K1   #
K2  #  


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[Elecraft] TEST....IGNORE

2006-07-27 Thread Ken J.

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Re: [Elecraft] General SMD Soldering Question

2006-07-27 Thread Wyn Hughes

Thanks, Don:

I have a larger iron and will try that approach first. I could also have 
tried to source other caps but instinctively went first for something 
similar to what was there before.


Again, greatly appraciate your advice,

73
Wyn, VR2AX
- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Wyn Hughes [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:29 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] General SMD Soldering Question



Wyn,

If you have the hot air gun or oven and solder paste and know how to use 
it,

by all means go that route, but if not, then just use the Hakko - you will
be soldering two widely spaced tabs on the capacitors rather than finely
spaced leads like are encountered on SMD ICs.  Yes, the Kester 44 will 
work
just fine if the diameter is small enough to properly control the amount 
of

solder applied.

If the copper area is large, crank the heat on the Hakko a bit higher or 
use

a larger iron.

Since you have a 15 to 20 mm gap on the PC board, why not use capacitors
with leads rather than the SMD variety (unless you already have the SMD 
caps

in hand).  The extension tabs that you add will likely have just as much
inductance as the capacitor leads.  Of course, if this amp is for use at
VHF/UHF, then  any extra inductance may matter, but likely not for HF.

73,
Don W3FPR



-Original Message-

This is distantly related to the mainstream of QA on this net.I
intend to use my new K2 to drive a Icom IC-2KL amplifier. Please
imagine for now, there is an intermediate amp between the K2 and the 2KL.

One of the twin PA boards on the 2KL ( a backup, I have 2 of
them) is unfortunately, smoked. My immediate task is to solder a
pair of 1KV Syfer  ceramic SMD 0.1 mfd caps between two troubled
pcb tabs in the PA output coupliing stage, where the previous
incumbents were vaporized, by previous owner. I think he/she ran
it into a low R/high C load on 80 or 160.

This is a heavy solder job at least as heavy as the KPA100
(judging from the manual). I think I may need to solder extension
tabs to the caps, which are about 5mm wide, to bridge a 10-15mm
gap between the tabs on the PA board. Of course, I need to clean
up all the carbon residu on the PA board and tidy up the tabs first.

How does one go about this task? Is a solder iron loke a Hakko
936 the best tool or should I use a hot air SMD soldering unit or
even an oven? Should I use solder paste or ordinary 63/37 Kester
44? What temps shuld one use? I normally run the Kester 44 at
750F, as per the recommendation on their website.

Comments  much welcomed.

Wyn, VR2AX






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[Elecraft] Looking for Web Sites

2006-07-27 Thread Ron Polityka

Hello,

I am working on updating the EPA QRP Club Web site.

If you have a QRP related web site of your own, please send me the link.

I will place it on the EPA QRP Club web page.

72 and Thanks,
Ron Polityka
WB3AAL
www.wb3aal.com 
www.n3epa.org


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[Elecraft] K2 lowest power output

2006-07-27 Thread Siu Johnny


Hi Don,

I do not have any power meter which can measure any RF power output less 
than 1 watt.  Could you please advise the minimum output power level of K2 
with the power knot fully CCW?


BTW, under the SEC menu of K2, the transverter output (without the 
installation of KV60) can be lowered to 0.1 watt.  Would this be the lowest 
level output of K2?


I encounter some problems in building my XV144 and am in communication with 
Gary.  He is very responsive and helpful.  Upon solving the problem, I 
shall come back to this reflector again and let other members know my 
experience.


TNX  73

Johnny Siu VR2XMC


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