Re: [Elecraft] Soldering PL-259s (WAS: Fw: RG-213 BNC connector)
In a message dated 11/21/06 9:58:43 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: At HF frequencies, loss is not the issue. (Even at 144 MHz the loss is not significant if the connectors are mounted/installed correctly. Above that, at UHF frequencies, things go downhill pretty fast. That must be why they call 'em UHF connectors. Uh, yeah.) Back when the UHC connector was invented, anyhting above 30 MHz was considered the ultrahighs. 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] My display problem :)
Thanks to you guys who've replied. I forgot to mention that the backlight works. I tried resetting the radio (i.e. holding down 4,5, 6 while turing the K2 on) and the display shows Info 201. So, something inthere works. But still get nothing other than that. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] My display problem :)
Clark, If you have any display at all, even INFO 201 then the Fromt Panel may be OK. That means the problem is likely on the Control Board or at the connectors to the RF Board - and the most likely source of the problem is a bad solder connection. Soldering problems are the most common form of failures. Check the soldering, then re-check the soldering, and when you have finished that, check the soldering! 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Thanks to you guys who've replied. I forgot to mention that the backlight works. I tried resetting the radio (i.e. holding down 4,5, 6 while turing the K2 on) and the display shows Info 201. So, something inthere works. But still get nothing other than that. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Source of poor solder joints?
Looks like poor soldering joints is the #1 problem with rigs we build. While building my KSB2 I was wondering about and came up with an idea. I wonder if many poor solder joints occur because of the lead moving as the soldering tip is removed. In the case of an IC, while I'm applying heat, I'm pushing against the chip's lead. When I remove the soldering iron, the lead is going to spring back just a bit (i.e. move) as the solder connection is cooling. Could this be a major contributor to poor solder joints? - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Source of poor solder joints?
Nahhh .. assuming you're using adequate heat, the solder hasn't set up yet. The time elapsed between the tip pulling away and whatever mechanical stress relief might happen would be very short, a few milliseconds ... $.02 de w1rt/john On 11/22/06, Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Looks like poor soldering joints is the #1 problem with rigs we build. While building my KSB2 I was wondering about and came up with an idea. I wonder if many poor solder joints occur because of the lead moving as the soldering tip is removed. In the case of an IC, while I'm applying heat, I'm pushing against the chip's lead. When I remove the soldering iron, the lead is going to spring back just a bit (i.e. move) as the solder connection is cooling. Could this be a major contributor to poor solder joints? - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Source of poor solder joints?
I agree with Don. Just the smallest, un-noticable motion of the joint while the solder is solidifying can produce a cold solder joint. That's why I always re-flow the connections that were done first to hold a component in place, like the corner pins on an ic. In fact, I often will go back and re-flow all the connections on a device after things have cooled off completely. It means taking twice as long to do the soldering but that's no problem because with an Elecraft kit the building process is at least half the fun. Craig Miller K3OOL K2/100 4790 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Source of poor solder joints?
Hi Keith: In my limited experience, most poorly soldered joints come from: (not necessarily in order of importance) 1) applying to little heat, 2) applying ample heat, but not for long enough to allow the solder to 'flow' properly, 3) applying too little solder If ample heat was properly applied, AND for an adequate length of time, merely removing the tip of the iron from the soldered joint should leave more than ample residual heat to allow the joint to properly solidify. I've seen 'newbie' builders 'peck' at the joint being soldered with their soldering iron tip, rather than leaving it in one spot long enough for the heat to be transferred to the pad wire and solder. They'll 'warm' up the joint... melt a bit of solder onto the tip of the iron and then 'dab' at the joint, instead of applying enough for the solder to FLOW onto and throughout the components of the connection. This is most often evidenced by looking at the joint thru a magnifier. You can readily see that 1) the solder never 'flowed' in and around the joint, 2) often there's NO SOLDER inside the plated-thru hole at all, just a small 'blob' on one side of the PC board pad, and possible a bit on the wire lead. 'Cold joints' resulting from the builder's having accidently moved the component lead after the heat's been removed are much less frequent than poorly soldered joints from the two above causes. Take yer time, folks... this is NOT a race... apply the heat long enough that the solder will flow smoothly, AND apply at least enough that the solder flows down and INTO the hole of the plated-thru connection. 73, Tom HammondN0SS At 07:45 AM 11/22/2006, Darwin, Keith wrote: Looks like poor soldering joints is the #1 problem with rigs we build. While building my KSB2 I was wondering about and came up with an idea. I wonder if many poor solder joints occur because of the lead moving as the soldering tip is removed. In the case of an IC, while I'm applying heat, I'm pushing against the chip's lead. When I remove the soldering iron, the lead is going to spring back just a bit (i.e. move) as the solder connection is cooling. Could this be a major contributor to poor solder joints? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Source and causes of poor solder joints?
Colleagues, In keeping with this thread I wonder if the tools used are as much at fault as the technique? I use a Weller WTCPN station with 60/40 solder and a fine tip, and find that the plated tips seem to lose their tinning and have to be swiped through the sponge and a bit of solder applied. Given that time has moved on is there a better, moderately-priced instrument available for this type of construction? 230v of course ;-) From my own experience I've found that the eyes aren't what they used to be and I too find myself going over joints. Having recently invested in an illuminated magnifier lamp I find I don't have to do this as much as I used to, but its still a problem. Is our aging profile in the hobby also contributing to this? Ron - Ron Hahn - EI2JP Grid: IO62TG CQ: 14 ITU: 27 IOTA: EU-115 FISTS: 10883 QRP-ARCI: 12584 G-QRP: 11968 Club Web Site: http://www.ei1karg.com QSL Info: http://www.qrz.com/detail/EI2JP Keeper, EI7KYR Mob. +353-86-600-5499 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] building K2
Ditto here... Just completed the first test last night while listening to the 5A7A pileup on my k1. I am really impressed with the implementation of the DVM/freq counter within the unit. That is really over the top!! There have been alot of comparisons made between Elecraft Heatkit, but with all due respect to the Benton Harbor folks, The Elecraft stuff is alot more rigorous design, even accounting for the advances in technology, than my HW-8 (which still holds a spot on my bench and heart). If only Elecraft would supply a plastic red nut driver/alignment tool thingey with their kits- my last one is worn out! ;) Happy Thanksgiving, all, 73s Pete From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2006/11/21 Tue PM 04:43:37 CST To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] building K2 Hi Sure is nice when the initial test goes exactly as it is supposed to. 73 Scott N5SM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com Pete Axson WD4LST 17901 NE 18th Ave Citra, FL 32113 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 - the next TenTec Argonaut.
My first modern rig was a used Argonaut 515 I bought in 1985. Nice on CW, wide on SSB, 2 watts out was pretty light. But it was the top of the line QRP rig and I loved it for that. Time moves on. TenTec struggles, transitions to a direct-sales company and eventually produces a truly top-level contest rig. They certainly benefited from the move to direct-sales. But what of the Argo line? They have an Argo V these days, and it is cheaper than the K2 with options, but I have a K2. I sometimes think about getting an Argo because they're the top of the QRP rigs ... then it occurs to me. No, the K2 is the top. I guess I don't really view the K2 as a QRP rig :-) It is too good to be just a QRP rig, but in reality it is. So I say the title of King of QRP has passed from TenTec to Elecraft. Yea, I suppose y'all already knew this but it is a relief for me to realize it. I can quit thinking about getting an Argo V. - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.dsp - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] OT: QSL reply to a SWL Enthusiast
Chuck, By all means send the Swiss SWL your card. I used to do that long before I was ever licensed in PA, and it was a great treat to receive a response to my SWL card. It will also be a treasured card to add to your file for your KX1. Simply add whatever notes to your card seem appropriate to express your thanks for receiving it. As for the Solar Cycle, from what I read on propogation messages, it seems (and we all hope) that the bottom of the current cycle is quite close...perhaps in mid-2007. Nevertheless, there are still opportunities for QSOs on 15m and 17m. You have to be on your toes, however, to keep exchanges short if you run your rig(s) at low power levels. Steve Banks K0PQ K2 S/N 1599 KX1 S/N 00267 ...and K2 S/N 5615 under construction -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 4:05 PM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] OT: QSL reply to a SWL Enthusiast I received a QSL card from a SWL Enthusiast in Switzerland, he copied my KX1 2 watt QSO and has requested a QSL card. Since this has never happened to me before I am not sure what to put on the QSL card. Should I fill out the QSL information with my contacts information and then add my comments to him in the remarks section? I apologize for the band width but I would like to send the card with the appropriate info, and this is a first for me. 73 K2CG Chuck G. This is the bottom of the Solar Cycle isn't it? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Source and causes of poor solder joints?
Hi Ron: In keeping with this thread I wonder if the tools used are as much at fault as the technique? I use a Weller WTCPN station with 60/40 solder and a fine tip, and find that the plated tips seem to lose their tinning and have to be swiped through the sponge and a bit of solder applied. As a matter of procedure, I 'swipe' the tip of my iron every time I pick it up to solder a joint... though I may solder several connections in a single pass (e.g. an IC). I don't use a sponge, however. I use a 'curly' stainless steel kitchen pot 'scrubbie' and need only to plunge the tip down into the scrubbie to clean it off without losing any of the tip temp to the moisture of a damp sponge. See: http://www.n0ss.net/soldering_iron_tip_cleaner.pdf Given that time has moved on is there a better, moderately-priced instrument available for this type of construction? 230v of course ;-) Though I personally prefer the Hakko 936-x series of T/C irons, I can't think of a single reason that the WTCPN should be entirely adequate for the job. From my own experience I've found that the eyes aren't what they used to be and I too find myself going over joints. Having recently invested in an illuminated magnifier lamp I find I don't have to do this as much as I used to, but its still a problem. Is our aging profile in the hobby also contributing to this? To some extend... IF we don't recognize where a little 'help' can be used to our advantage, it probably is. Cheers, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Display problem fixed... it was (surprise)...
Poor solder joints! Imagine that. Thanks to everyone who chimed in, it took about an hour to get straightened out this morning with a fresh perspective. Have a great Thanksgiving, I hope to be transmitting by Christmas! Clark KI4GYT ps- it'd be sooner, but I still have 3 weeks of med school before the winter break. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: QSL reply to a SWL Enthusiast
In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], Gil Stacy [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes More power to the SWLer--after all, he was reading CW. 73, Gil NN4CW Very true, my all time favourite QSL card is from an SWL in ZL some 30 plus years ago. He gave me a 339 report on 160m using a Trio 9R59DE and indoor rotary loop antenna! If you know the radio you can see why I was/am happy :-) Trev G3ZYY -- Trevor Day Sunny Saltash ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Source and causes of poor solder joints?
snip I don't use a sponge, however. I use a 'curly' stainless steel kitchen pot 'scrubbie' and need only to plunge the tip down into the scrubbie to clean it off without losing any of the tip temp to the moisture of a damp sponge. = FWIW Maplins (the uk equivalent of radioshack) sell a commercial equivalent Based on recycled brass swarf. Anyone with access to a lathe cold easily turn one up. Regards Steve G0XAR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Source of poor solder joints?
I agree with all Tom has stated, but to add a bit more(I didn't see mention of this), after cleaning the tip well I will dab just a touch of solder to the right before touching the joint to establish a bridge. This helps the transfer of heat quickly to the joint so that you're not applying heat too long to that high quality but fragile circuit board. Too much heat for too long is a disaster to any pcb. My $.02 73, Mark Baugh W5EZY Grenada MS Sponsored Link Mortgage rates near historic lows: $150,000 loan as low as $579/mo. Intro-*Terms https://www2.nextag.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Source of poor solder joints?
Wiping the tip (clean iron tip, well tinned) before each joint is made when doing pads and wetting the tip with the tip of the wire solder are key steps. Touch the tip with fresh solder just before starting to solder the joint. Apply the solder wire to the junction of the lead, pad, and iron tip. Hold steady until you see full wetting action, then get the heated tip off the joint in a smooth motion. Also, use smaller diameter solder when you are doing just a pin of a active IC/ transistor, larger solder when doing shield can soldering, etc. Make the solder fit the work. Proper heat and tip size has been mentioned. A high intensity light for older eyes and a lighted magnifier make inspection of each joint a faster process. The light helps insure you got solder all around a pad, wire lead, device lead, etc. Practice with a heat controlled iron, or a smaller constant wattage iron, makes perfect solder joints. Inspection though, is still needed just in case you get in a hurry. Check the tightness of your element and tip before you fire up the iron. Stop working when you are tired, or eyesight gets fuzzy. Don't rush an assembly job. Check off each step, read it first, understand before you do anything. Double check that you have the right value part, check off each step after inspecting the joints and the parts used in that step. Read the manuals through before starting a kit. Clarify any unclear points. This forum is very helpful as there are a lot of experienced builders of the same units here as the one you may be assembling. GL and 73, Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Source of poor solder joints?
You should not be pushing the iron against the IC lead so hard it springs at all. For ICs, usually you spring the leads open a bit more than factory out of package, and they hold themselves in the board. You spread component leads to hold themselves into pads or hold the component with a finger tip of one hand while applying soldering iron with other. Sometimes, I have to wrap a coil of solder on a finger, so I can use one hand to both hold the component, with one finger, and another finger applies the solder wire where it should go. It takes some practice, but if you have had adequate sleep and steady hand, then it can be done. When my hands are less steady, I use my magnifier stand with clips to hold the board in such a way that gravity might assist in steadying the component and its leads. That may mean the board is vertical and you have to apply the solder and iron from one side. But, bending the component leads, or taking advantage of the crimp in some leads may be all you need do. Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] W1 wattmeter
Just received, built, tested the W1. It is great! I don't have a calibrated reference, but the power and SWR readings agree with what I have. I may remote several parts so that I can mount the unit in a nice case for permanent use. Run, don't walk to your nearest Elecraft page and order one. Jim, W5MHL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Re: Source of poor solder joints?
That's a critical point you made Mark: never solder with a dry tip. It must be wet with a little solder. The wiping is to remove excess solder and any burned rosin or other debris, not to dry the tip off completely. That's one of the reasons it's so important to use the right size tip on the iron. It's not just a matter of the tip reaching the joint without touching other parts, but a big tip will take too much solder to wet it, and when you heat the joint that solder may flood a small solder pad, but without the rosin needed for a well-flowed joint. The right size tip allows a small drop for good transfer, then more fresh solder is added with rosin to complete the joint. I use Don's technique for checking my iron temperature too: between 2 and 3 seconds for good solder flow over the joint. When I've worked on gear in the field (ships, etc.) I'm often in a situation where I'm working on delicate PCBs, even replacing SMDs at times, without a soldering station. I use my butane powered Port-A-Sol pen iron. It's hot enough to burn a hole in a PCB or de-bond traces almost instantly, but it has a fuel-flow control that adjusts the temperature and has selectable tips. For fine work I install a 1.5mm tip and crank down the heat, setting it to produce good solder flow between 2 and 3 seconds after applying the tip to the work. I've never damaged a PCB or component with it following that rule. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I agree with all Tom has stated, but to add a bit more(I didn't see mention of this), after cleaning the tip well I will dab just a touch of solder to the right before touching the joint to establish a bridge. This helps the transfer of heat quickly to the joint so that you're not applying heat too long to that high quality but fragile circuit board. Too much heat for too long is a disaster to any pcb. My $.02 73, Mark Baugh W5EZY Grenada MS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] HI CUR and 160 Meters
While waiting for parts to fix my KPA100 and KAT100, I was checking out my K160RX. The situation is that at 12W out the K2 (KSB2, KNB2, KDSP2, K106RX, KIO2) draws 2.5 amps. With power set at anything above that, it exceeds 4.5 amps and I get a Hi CUR warning (limit set at 4.5 amps). Current is a bit higher than expected on 80 meters at 3.2 amps max output. Other bands 2.9 - 2.9 amps. I wonder what would cause the jump? 73 de K1ESE John ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] k2 antenna connector
Today I purchased a BNC to SO-239 adapter at Radio Shack for $5.49. 73 Dale kc9cwb ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soldering PL-259s (WAS: Fw: RG-213 BNC connector)
If you have the 1950's style Weller or Wen Soldering guns that were about 100 watts, (some were more), you can take off the tips and use the shanks to butt up to the PL 259 type UHF inner shell, when you solder the little holes to the shield of the coax. You should pretin the shield where the holes are going to be over that area, to give something for the added solder wire to easily adhere to when it reaches the plastic, (Eutectic) state. Get both shanks onto the shell near the hole you are soldering to rapidly heat up the shell. Let the shell /hole edge melt the solder. Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Source of poor solder joints?
I'm currently building a KPA100, and have noticed on several joints after I apply the solder, and then remove the iron, the solder bubbles around the lead, and then usually the solder joint looks bad. What is happening here? I don't recall this happening when I was building the base K2, but it's been quite a while. -Ben K1NT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Source of poor solder joints?
Ben, Good eyes - keep looking at your soldering that way. The bubbling is the result of flux trapped inside the solder boiling. It is also an indication that your soldering temperature is a bit too low - the joint definitely did not receive adequate heating. Yes, such behavior will result in a bad solder connection. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I'm currently building a KPA100, and have noticed on several joints after I apply the solder, and then remove the iron, the solder bubbles around the lead, and then usually the solder joint looks bad. What is happening here? I don't recall this happening when I was building the base K2, but it's been quite a while. -Ben K1NT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Oscillator reads strangely?
Hi guys, Went through and went over every solder joint. Took several hours, but now I get a reading on the Freq Probe at TP3 for the 4.000 MHz adjustment. Problem is: It reads 9.050 MHz, and I can get the tone on my other receiver (@9.050) with the antenna wire wrapped around the 4MHz crystal on the control board. Any ideas? Thanks, Clark ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ: KX1 Mini Speaker
Interesting idea. I think I have one of those speakers. I'm going to try mounting it in a small metal utility box that, with rubber feet, should be about the same height as the KX-1. If I can get the phone plug mounted in the right place it would plug right in. Conceivable to even put an lm380 type amp in there with a couple of AA batteries. But first, see if there is enough energy the way it is. 73, Doug -- K0DXV Edward R. Breneiser wrote: Hello all, I've been playing around with adding a speaker to my KX1. I think I've found a great little speaker that works pretty good. As I type this, I'm copying a cw signal and it sounds fine. The speaker measures 1.38 x .634 x .29. I just soldered the speaker on to a 3.5mm stereo plug and then put a small screen over the front it to protect the speaker. I now can just plug-in my speaker to listen without headphones. I'll have pictures on my website soon. If anyone is interested in a KX1 Speaker Kit, send me an email. If there's enough interest, I'll make up a kit that should cost around $10.00 72, Ed,WA3WSJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 parts Un-identified object
Help! In my sealed package of parts for the RF probe there is a component that doesn't appear to be part of the probe, but I could be mistaken. It appears to be yellow and is on leads like a small resistor. The print on it is so small that I have trouble reading it even with a powerful, lighted magnafying glass. It appears to have 10J with A1 just under that and is 1/8 inch long, and 3/32 inch diameter. The other components in the package were the .01uf c1, 4.7 Mohm R1, 1n34A diode, along with a couple wire end connectors and a couple of banana plugs. Anyone know what it is and if it is part of the RF probe? And how do they make print that small Thanks Scott N5SM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] XV-144 bandwidth
Hi Stan If i have got it right in my setup, that seems to work ok in the VHF contest in Denmark, you need to specify what the K2 display should show when the K2 are on the freq you have setup in IF setting. Ie if 28 Mhz are set in IF setting and and 144 in RF setting. The K2 will show 144 when running at 28 MHz to/from the XV144. That is how mine are set up. Spec on XV144 say input freq from 28-30 Mhz. The rolloff you see is not new to me. I have had fun with that as well. I have asked here some time ago. Clearly the issue are the preformances of the 28 Mhz band. If you check there you will proberly see the freq roll off as you approach 29 Mhz Or in my case quite much before that. As I understood from the answers here. That is quite normale. Br Michael - Original Message - From: Stan Rife [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 5:05 AM Subject: [Elecraft] XV-144 bandwidth I have a question about setting up the K2 RF value in the menu setting trans2 for the XV-144. The K2 manual nor the XV manual state anything about a specific setting. On initial power up the K2 freq readout was indicating 38xxx.xx. I went in the trans2 settings and set the RF setting for 145, the center of the band. Is this correct? And after setting the RF value, I still had to do a direct entry of 145000 to get the readout on the K2 to indicate this frequency. I am confused by all this. Can someone clue me in on the procedure to set the RF value correctly? And do I need to go back through the alignment again? I noticed that the power starts dropping off around 144200 at the low end, and 145500 at the top end of the band. Shouldn't I get full out put across the bandwidth of the unit? I feel like I have set it up improperly and am not getting best performance. I get full power out at the center of the band, and I have it set back to 10 watts maximum out to drive my old Mirage B1016 amplifier. Also, as I tune toward the band edges, the gain seems to diminish as indicated by a loss of noise from the speaker. Stan Rife W5EWA Houston, TX K2 S/N 4216 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com Jeg beskyttes af den gratis SPAMfighter til privatbrugere. Den har indtil videre sparet mig for at få 200 spam-mails Betalende brugere får ikke denne besked i deres e-mails. Hent en gratis SPAMfighter her. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Happy Thanksgiving
On behalf of the Flying Pigs QRP Amateur Radio Club International and the North American QRP CW Club, I would like to wish all of you a very Happy Thanksgiving. Thank you for participating in our sprints throughout the year. I hope your Holiday is filled with good times with your friends and family, good food and a lot of very happy memories! -- Larry W2LJ QRP - When you care to send the very least! http://www.w2lj.qrpradio.com http://w2lj.blogspot.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] HI CUR and 160 Meters
Different problem when he doesn't have a KPA100 though. Tom At 04:53 PM 11/22/2006, Fred Jensen wrote: John Huffman wrote: The situation is that at 12W out the K2 (KSB2, KNB2, KDSP2, K106RX, KIO2) draws 2.5 amps. With power set at anything above that, it exceeds 4.5 amps and I get a Hi CUR warning (limit set at 4.5 amps). Parasitic? I had that problem on 40m with the KPA100 and KAT100. Ran OK at lower power (~15W - 25W) but went berserk at higher power. It even blew the 12V DC line fuse once. Gary fixed it but I'm not sure what he did. Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Oscillator reads strangely?
Clark, The 9.050 frequency is not coming from the 4 MHz reference oscillator, but from the PLL Reference oscillator. Since you have a separate receiver and have its antenna wire wrapped around the 4 MHz crystal - tune the receiver to 4 MHz and adjust C22 until the frequency received is exactly 4 MHz. You can use an alternate method later to calibrate the 4 MHz oscillator after you can receive WWV. Getting it approximately on 4 MHz is all that is required at this point. Now, the real question is - why is the frequency that you are reading 9.050 instead of in the vocinity of 12.090? That frequency is coming from the PLL Reference Oscillators with a crystal at 12.096 MHz. Since you can hear the same frequency on your separate receiver, I have to believe it is a real oscillation, and the probe is not to blame. Look at the Schematic sheet 1 of 4 in the upper left corner you will see the PLL Reference Oscillator (the components to the left of U4). Check all these associated components for good solder connections and proper values. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hi guys, Went through and went over every solder joint. Took several hours, but now I get a reading on the Freq Probe at TP3 for the 4.000 MHz adjustment. Problem is: It reads 9.050 MHz, and I can get the tone on my other receiver (@9.050) with the antenna wire wrapped around the 4MHz crystal on the control board. Any ideas? Thanks, Clark ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] HI CUR and 160 Meters
John, How much power is actually being produced? What does the K2 meter indicate in TUNE? What is your power supply voltage under this 4.5 amp load? If the voltage drops significantly, the current will go up - the K2 tries to provide the requested power out, and if the voltage drops, the current must increase. If you can eliminate power supply voltage drop problems, then you could have some sort of oscillation present. The K2 is quite stable if all the components are correct. You could start by checking T1, T2 and T4 (especially T4). The only other thing that I can think of right now are the components in the base circuit of Q7 and Q8, but I cannot relate to a jump in current draw if those components were at fault. Check th evoltage on the base of Q7 and Q8 when transmitting - it should be 0.6 volts or very close. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- While waiting for parts to fix my KPA100 and KAT100, I was checking out my K160RX. The situation is that at 12W out the K2 (KSB2, KNB2, KDSP2, K106RX, KIO2) draws 2.5 amps. With power set at anything above that, it exceeds 4.5 amps and I get a Hi CUR warning (limit set at 4.5 amps). Current is a bit higher than expected on 80 meters at 3.2 amps max output. Other bands 2.9 - 2.9 amps. I wonder what would cause the jump? 73 de K1ESE John ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 Change Frequency Board
Hi All, I purchased a K1 some time ago on Ebay and it works fine. It has 2 Filter Boards and the antenna tuner. The two band board is 30 and 40 meters, and I want 40 and 80 meters. Whats the easyest fix ? I'm not real good with delicate work, so I need to trade or have some one make the modifications. Any suggestions .. Thanks, Bob ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KXB3080 - Same output power on 40m as 20m - How to fix?
Hi, All. Thanks to all who responded about the power output being the same between 20m and 40m. I was able to run some tests with a recently calibrated HP8591A spectrum analyzer, and I thought I'd share my results. (I also had a chance to calibrate the KXAT1 it was reading about 0.25W high). My battery voltage was: 9.1V key-up and 8.2V key down. I was hooked up to the analyzer through a recently certified precision 10dB attenuator and a recently certified low loss coaxial feedline. (I've adjusted the fundamental power below by 10dB for the pad). Fundamental 2nd 3rd 4th 5th BandPowerHarmonic Harmonic HarmonicHarmonic (Adjusted Pad)Delta Delta DeltaDelta 80m 30.6dBm (1.15W) -45dB -66dB-76dB -76dB 40m 29.4dBm (0.87W) -39dB -52dB -59dB-64dB 30m 30.4dBm (1.09W) -40dB -70dB -72dB-71dB 20m 30.1dBm (1.02W)-60dB -66dB -70dB-69dB Observations: The harmonic rejection is within specification, at least at 1W out. I assume that the level of harmonic suppression (delta) will remain the same regardless of the power out, I'd be interested in comments on that assumption as I did not have the right connector to run the radio on 12V to hand when I made the measurement. I do NOT have the 20m power being 0.3-0.6W lower than 40m (any more - it was before the KXB3080 mod), in fact I have almost the opposite (0.15W more power on 20m than 40m), and I assume that difference would be more pronounced at higher output powers. The manual states that my harmonic rejection may therefore be sub-optimal: If both bands have adequate output power but 20 meters is higher, you should adjust the windings of toroidal inductor L2. To do this, squeeze the turns of L2 together slightly so that they occupy only about 70% of the core's circumference. With L2 at its optimal turns spacing (for best harmonic rejection), 20 meter output will be about 0.3 to 0.6 watts lower than 40 meters. The worst case harmonic rejection seems to be 40m with the 1st harmonic being -38.7dB down from the fundamental, but that's close enough to the specification (-40dB) I think. Should I be trying to squeeze my turns to improve it? I'm not sure. I did compare my results to John AE5X's measurements for his KXB30 KX1: KX12nd 3rd4th 5th OwnerBandHarmonic Harmonic HarmonicHarmonic Delta Delta DeltaDelta AE5X40m -40dB -53dB -60dB-66dB VA3SIE 40m -39dB -52dB -59dB-64dB AE5X 30m -35dB -63dB -71dB-68dB VA3SIE 30m -40dB -70dB -72dB-71dB AE5X 20m -58dB -60dB -73dB-70dB VA3SIE 20m -60dB -66dB -70dB-69dB So the KXB3080 low pass filters apparently offer superior harmonic rejection compared to the KXB30 except on 40m where it's slightly worse, although in practice the 1dB difference is probably close enough. Perhaps I could improve the 40m harmonic rejection by squeezing turns, but it probably isn't worth it for 1dB. I hope others can benefit from these measurements. 73 Martin. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Source of poor solder joints?
I wonder why it only happens once I remove the iron? Seems to me, a boiling action would cause bubbling while the heat is being applied. Unless solder has some kind of skin like water has, and removing the iron breaks the skin at which point the bubbles could escape? -Ben K1NT Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ben, Good eyes - keep looking at your soldering that way. The bubbling is the result of flux trapped inside the solder boiling. It is also an indication that your soldering temperature is a bit too low - the joint definitely did not receive adequate heating. Yes, such behavior will result in a bad solder connection. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I'm currently building a KPA100, and have noticed on several joints after I apply the solder, and then remove the iron, the solder bubbles around the lead, and then usually the solder joint looks bad. What is happening here? I don't recall this happening when I was building the base K2, but it's been quite a while. -Ben K1NT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Source of poor solder joints?
On Wednesday 22 November 2006 18:13, Tom Hammond wrote: A 'dry' soldering iron tip WILL eventually transfer the heat, BUT a 'wetted' tip will accomplish the heat transfer MANY TIMES FASTER and with less chance of 'frying' something in the process (component OR PC board trace). I always clean my soldering tip on a DAMP sponge, not wet. And I add a touch of solder to the tip, considering that it is a molten tip, not transferring solder to the intended joint, but transferring the heat efficiently. I built my K2 with a 15 Watt Antex soldering iron that I bought in 1971 - no temperature control - just experience, probably such as Don's timing tips. If anyone would like to look at my soldering, http://www.opus131.com/ijs/infra.html Click on the pictures for detail - they are modest resolution scans of prints from an Olympus OM4. These days a digital camera could produce much more detail - maybe I'll update the page one day. Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 4962 -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] New Elecraft Gift Buying Guide; New Gift Certs
For those of you that like to leave subtle (or not-so-subtle..) gift hints for your spouse, friends, kids etc., we've just updated the Elecraft Gift Buying Guide for Non-Hams on the Elecraft web page. It covers everything from stocking stuffers, like our mini-module kits, to items that are much larger. (K1, K2 etc.) See: http://www.elecraft.com/buyers_guide/Elecraft%20Options8a.htm This guide also includes our latest new products, including the W1 Computer Readable LED Watt-Meter, the AT1 41 dB switched Attenuator and the AF1 Audio Filter kits. The Guide is written with an eye for non-hams, but it is a great list of ideas for your more technical friends too. The last section includes a 'I want this!' checklist you can innocently leave lying around in sight of others. :-) We're also offering Elecraft Gift Certificates this year than can be purchased in increments of $25. Contact [EMAIL PROTECTED] or call us at 831-662-8345 for details. 73, EricWA6HHQ http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
