Re: [Elecraft] Power pole for K3?

2008-04-19 Thread Ian White GM3SEK

David Cutter wrote:

Yes, the power cord parts are included with the K3 kit.  This is one 
item  that will require your soldering iron unless you have a good 
(ratcheting  type) crimper for the Anderson PowerPole connectors and 
know how to  properly crimp the connectors.


73,
Don W3FPR

Lisa tells me that if you ask, you can actually buy the ready-made 
cable from Elecraft at $10.  In my honest opinion you are well advised 
to order this with your kit.  If you order the ready-built K3, this is 
what you get.




It needs more than just a ratchet crimper - it has to be a hexagon 
crimper of exactly the right size. Otherwise it's out with the soldering 
iron, or pony up your $10.



--

73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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Re: [Elecraft] Buddipoles and KX1

2008-04-19 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy

David Woolley wrote:


Craig D. Smith wrote:


Most everyone I know (including me) who uses the BuddiPole as a vertical
uses a single quarter wave elevated radial or counterpoise wire.  This 
costs


That could equally be viewed as being a quarter wave, horizontal antenna 
with a vertical counterpoise.  In free space, the longer of the two would 
dominate.  Over a good ground, things get more complicated, and I'm not 
sure I can give a good intuitive analysis


Seemingly a quarter wave vertical with a quarter wave elevated horizontal 
radial was a popular antenna amongst hams in the 1930s, and continued to 
appear in the ARRL Antenna Handbook during the 1940s as the Up and Out 
antenna. In those days the antenna was viewed as a halfwave centre fed 
dipole with a 90 degree bend at the centre, although it was also used as a 
multiband antenna I believe. But as you point out things are a bit more 
complicated when the antenna is over ground. Without running a model, which 
might not give accurate results, my instinct suggests that both the length 
and angle of the 'horizontal radial' of a real single band antenna over 
ground might have to be adjusted to obtain a non-reactive feedpoint 
impedance for coax feeder - assuming that the vertical part is an electrical 
quarter wave. During the 1930s and 1940s open wire feeders and antenna 
matching units were of course the norm, which would probably make these 
adjustments to the 'radial' unnecessary.


73,

Geoff
GM4ESD



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[Elecraft] [K3] PSK etc via external unit and KB

2008-04-19 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Having just read the Waters  Stanton add in this months RadCom, I see  
on pg 2 an add for the Icom IC-7700 and its content :

Another first: built-in PSK31 and RTTY. Just add a USB keyboard

Apart from taking exception - it's not a first, the K3 was I believe  
(but no point complaining - K3 doesn't have a KB yet), this got me to  
thinking...


Would some bright spark like to produce a very small USB keyboard to  
paddle converter kit? I would guess a PIC that would produce the  
appropriate contact closures?
This is far beyond me in design, but while we wait for Elecraft to  
possibly add some form of keyboard interface, this would allow us to  
drive the built in PSK and RTTY in the K3 via the paddle input.


I know there is the NUE-PSK unit, but since most of the requirement is  
in the K3, I thought a small unit to convert key press to contact  
closure might be possible?


73 de M0XDF, K3 #174

--
God gives every bird his worm, but he does not throw it into the nest.
-Swedish proverb

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Re: [Elecraft] Power pole for K3?

2008-04-19 Thread Tom Childers, N5GE
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 07:06:27 +0100, you wrote:

[snip]
It needs more than just a ratchet crimper - it has to be a hexagon 
crimper of exactly the right size. Otherwise it's out with the soldering 
iron, or pony up your $10.

I'm not sure what you mean by hexagon.  The crimping dies I have (purchased
from West Mountain) are not hexagon shaped at all.  They are round with a raised
section that pushes the connector into the wire by making a dimple in the
connector sleeve.

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety 
deserve neither liberty nor safety.

--Benjamin Franklin 1775


Support the entire Constitution, not 
just the parts you like.

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE

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[Elecraft] re-two transceivers an one antenna

2008-04-19 Thread f9oj.7
I have used such a set up for many years - actually since I have been using 
the K2-10 watts, along with an IC 751. But I switch off the rig not in use, 
otherwise...! The switch is a faithful old Heathkit antenna  switch. I can 
even use a Heathkit  SB-220 with the Icom, provided the K2 is turned off.

73
Jacques 



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[Elecraft] Spectrogram v16 - FREEWARE

2008-04-19 Thread Ken K3IU

G'morning, all:

For those interested, Spectrogram is again available as Freeware. 
Richard's website, 
http://www.visualizationsoftware.com/gram/gramdl.html  says:


Version 16 is being made available as freeware to replace the older 
freeware versions of the software relied upon by the majority of 
Spectrogram users.  The download at left is a self-extracting setup 
program that will install Spectrogram on a single computer.


73,
Ken K3IU
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Re: [Elecraft] Power pole for K3?

2008-04-19 Thread AD6XY - Mike

Just solder them. Crimping is a bad idea unless you have EXACTLY the right
tool.

Mike



GM3SEK wrote:
 
 David Cutter wrote:
 
 Yes, the power cord parts are included with the K3 kit.  This is one 
item  that will require your soldering iron unless you have a good 
(ratcheting  type) crimper for the Anderson PowerPole connectors and 
know how to  properly crimp the connectors.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

Lisa tells me that if you ask, you can actually buy the ready-made 
cable from Elecraft at $10.  In my honest opinion you are well advised 
to order this with your kit.  If you order the ready-built K3, this is 
what you get.

 
 It needs more than just a ratchet crimper - it has to be a hexagon 
 crimper of exactly the right size. Otherwise it's out with the soldering 
 iron, or pony up your $10.
 
 
 -- 
 
 73 from Ian GM3SEK
 http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/Power-pole-for-K3--tp16779200p16782269.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] Power pole for K3?

2008-04-19 Thread Ian White GM3SEK

Tom Childers, N5GE wrote:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 07:06:27 +0100, you wrote:

[snip]

It needs more than just a ratchet crimper - it has to be a hexagon
crimper of exactly the right size. Otherwise it's out with the soldering
iron, or pony up your $10.


I'm not sure what you mean by hexagon.


Like the West Mountain 04 and 05 accessory dies - a hex crimp squeezes 
the terminal inward onto the cable from six sides.



The crimping dies I have (purchased
from West Mountain) are not hexagon shaped at all.  They are round with 
a raised

section that pushes the connector into the wire by making a dimple in the
connector sleeve.


The photo on the West Mountain website doesn't show this clearly, but 
the sketches on the Anderson website suggest four inward dimples - is 
that right?


Sorry I was being too restrictive about the types of crimps that will 
work with APPs. The point I was trying to make was that many of the most 
common kinds of crimpers will not work, because they squeeze the 
terminal out sideways, and then it won't fit into the housing.



--

73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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Re: [Elecraft] Power pole for K3?

2008-04-19 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tom,

You are correct - a hexagon shaped crimper die will not adequately crimp 
the APP barrel unless the wire size is large enough to fit *very* 
tightly into the barrel, and that is definitely not the normal situation 
(yes, I have tried it, with dismal failure).  The crimping die must both 
hold the barrel in the proper round shape and depress a dimple into the 
barrel.  BTW, the dimple side must be opposite the surface where the 
barrel is split to keep from deforming the barrel.


The proper tool used improperly will produce poor results - if in doubt, 
solder the connectors.


73,
Don W3FPR

Tom Childers, N5GE wrote:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 07:06:27 +0100, you wrote:

[snip]
  
It needs more than just a ratchet crimper - it has to be a hexagon 
crimper of exactly the right size. Otherwise it's out with the soldering 
iron, or pony up your $10.



I'm not sure what you mean by hexagon.  The crimping dies I have (purchased
from West Mountain) are not hexagon shaped at all.  They are round with a raised
section that pushes the connector into the wire by making a dimple in the
connector sleeve.

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

  

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Re: [Elecraft] Power pole for K3?

2008-04-19 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF

Yep, I confirm that.
And we seem to be opening up an old thread again, all this has been  
cover at least twice before and it available in the archives.

--
If you must play, decide on three things at the start: the rules of the
game, the stakes, and the quitting time. -Chinese Proverb

On 19 Apr 2008, at 12:06, Tom Childers, N5GE wrote:
I'm not sure what you mean by hexagon.  The crimping dies I have  
(purchased
from West Mountain) are not hexagon shaped at all.  They are round  
with a raised
section that pushes the connector into the wire by making a dimple  
in the

connector sleeve.

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[Elecraft] K3 2 meter transverter

2008-04-19 Thread L. D. Ingram

Werner,

snip
Hi Guys

Just was curious after reading about the 6 meter opening posts and how much
fun it can be and was wondering about 2 meters. Is there enough activity and
how wide use does it receive?
snip

I recently put the XV144 on the air using my K2 as the IF and an 11 
element beam at 50 feet to get started in weak signal VHF and have 
found a good bit of activity in my area in a 150 mile radius. I have 
heard stations in Mississippi and South Carolina but wasn't able to 
raise them with the 20W out of the XV144.


I think the excitement is in the hunt and am looking forward to 
spending more time tuned to 2 meters - I am currently building 
another K2 so I can keep this one monitoring 2M (and other bands in 
the future) and use the new on HF.


YMMV

73

Larry Ingram AG4NN

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[Elecraft] Low power out on 6 meters

2008-04-19 Thread K0EKL
After doing the full calibration multiple times (Synthesizer/Wattmeter/TX
Gain/ and TCXO) I find that I have lower than expected power output on 6m.
Firmware is 1.78 and I have the rig set to transmit through the 2.8 KHz
filter.
 
With the K3's power set to 100 watts I'm seeing 66.3 watts output to a dummy
load on my LP-100A wattmeter.  Set to 120 watts I see a maximum of 76 watts.
Is this normal behavior?
 
Thanks.
 
 
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[Elecraft] K3: Rob Sherwood's full text reply

2008-04-19 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
Okay...I sent out about a dozen private forwards around 0800z.  Just
got back on line, and my in box double that again.

So shown below is a cut/paste of the full text NCØB reply.  Nothing
earth-shattering.  I also received (from a separate source) a note
indicating that the 250hz filter (which, as mentioned below, is more
like 375hz) came in at 98, which seems to fit with what Rob is saying
(but Rob never told me 98).

ENJOY!

de Doug KR2Q


fromRob  Terri Sherwood [EMAIL PROTECTED]
to  DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL [EMAIL PROTECTED],
dateFri, Apr 18, 2008 at 10:27 PM
subject Re: K3 various roofing filters


Hi,
The results are on my web site now. http://www.sherweng.com/table.html

While I did not include the 250 Hz filter (which is more like 375 Hz),
it fits between the 200 and 400 in dynamic range (DR3).
They all work.  I doubt anyone could tell the difference on the air
from a DR3 standpoint.
One can certainly tell the difference from a bandwidth standpoint.
Personally I would use the 500 and 200.  One could also choose the 400
and the 200.
On SSB I think I would add the 2.1.  One can always set the DSP to 1.8
when needed.  If a contester only, maybe the 1.8 instead of the 2.1,
but I would have to evaluate that over time, and I did not have the
2.1, and I did not listen to the K3 in an SSB contest.

The 2.7 in my borrowed K3 had some passband tilt or ripple, and I
could never get LSB and USB to sound the same on noise.
Feel free to post any of this on the reflector.
73, Rob Sherwood, NC0B
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Re: [Elecraft] Low power out on 6 meters

2008-04-19 Thread Ken K3IU
I'm getting 100 watts out with 100 watts requested, 120 watts out with 
120 watts requested.

73,
Ken K3IU

K0EKL wrote:

After doing the full calibration multiple times (Synthesizer/Wattmeter/TX
Gain/ and TCXO) I find that I have lower than expected power output on 6m.
Firmware is 1.78 and I have the rig set to transmit through the 2.8 KHz
filter.
 
With the K3's power set to 100 watts I'm seeing 66.3 watts output to a dummy

load on my LP-100A wattmeter.  Set to 120 watts I see a maximum of 76 watts.
Is this normal behavior?
 
Thanks.
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Power pole for K3?

2008-04-19 Thread Tom Childers, N5GE
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:50:32 +0100, you wrote:

Yep, I confirm that.
And we seem to be opening up an old thread again, all this has been  
cover at least twice before and it available in the archives.

I agree.  Let's not start that all over again...
Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety 
deserve neither liberty nor safety.

--Benjamin Franklin 1775


Support the entire Constitution, not 
just the parts you like.

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE

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RE: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK etc via external unit and KB

2008-04-19 Thread Greg
I think K1EL has something similar to this called a K40?  It even has the
correct K designation.  :)  But...its output is setup only for the
straight key input and not paddle input.  So some mods would be required.

One of the items on the list is to accept input from the KEY jack as well as
the paddles.  When done, no mods to the above item would be necessary.

73
Greg
AB7R
Snowed in in APRIL!!!

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David Ferrington,
M0XDF
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 3:39 AM
To: Crafters
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK etc via external unit and KB


Having just read the Waters  Stanton add in this months RadCom, I see
on pg 2 an add for the Icom IC-7700 and its content :
Another first: built-in PSK31 and RTTY. Just add a USB keyboard

Apart from taking exception - it's not a first, the K3 was I believe
(but no point complaining - K3 doesn't have a KB yet), this got me to
thinking...

Would some bright spark like to produce a very small USB keyboard to
paddle converter kit? I would guess a PIC that would produce the
appropriate contact closures?
This is far beyond me in design, but while we wait for Elecraft to
possibly add some form of keyboard interface, this would allow us to
drive the built in PSK and RTTY in the K3 via the paddle input.

I know there is the NUE-PSK unit, but since most of the requirement is
in the K3, I thought a small unit to convert key press to contact
closure might be possible?

73 de M0XDF, K3 #174

--
God gives every bird his worm, but he does not throw it into the nest.
-Swedish proverb

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Re: [Elecraft] Power pole for K3?

2008-04-19 Thread David Cutter
The only thing not in the archive is that you can buy the ready-made cable 
from Elecraft for $10.


K3$2-3000
Cable$10

Ship, tar, ha'porth.

David
G3UNA



On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:50:32 +0100, you wrote:


Yep, I confirm that.
And we seem to be opening up an old thread again, all this has been
cover at least twice before and it available in the archives.


I agree.  Let's not start that all over again...
Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

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[Elecraft] SPE Expert 1K-FA Amplifer and K2 and K3

2008-04-19 Thread Chris Page
Is anybody using the SPE Expert 1K-FA amplifer with the K2 or K3, 
please?

I was wondering which CAT option the amplifier needs to be selected  
to enable it to receive band information from the K2 and K3?

Also, I would appreciate any advice on using the amplifier with the 
K2 and K3 in the light of other's experience.

Thanks and 73 de Chris, N4CJ (G4BUE)

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[Elecraft] Low power out on 6 meters

2008-04-19 Thread Dave G4AON

Dave

Mine gives very close to the expected power on 6m:

5W set, output 4.7W
50W set, output 52W
100W set, output 99W
120W set, output 119W

Measured on an LP100...

73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100 #80
--

After doing the full calibration multiple times (Synthesizer/Wattmeter/TX
Gain/ and TCXO) I find that I have lower than expected power output on 6m.
Firmware is 1.78 and I have the rig set to transmit through the 2.8 KHz
filter.

With the K3's power set to 100 watts I'm seeing 66.3 watts output to a dummy
load on my LP-100A wattmeter. Set to 120 watts I see a maximum of 76 watts.
Is this normal behavior?
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[Elecraft] K3 FS on QTH.COM

2008-04-19 Thread Dave G.
If anyone is interested...
K3/100 FS on qth.com 
Listing #660545 

Usual disclaimer
No Financial interest...
--
Dave G.   KK7SS
'65 MK III Sprite in Richland, WA
Two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity.
But I'm not so sure about the universe.  ... Albert Einstein.

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[Elecraft] RS-232 Question

2008-04-19 Thread DW Holtman
Hello,

 I have hooked up an old computer out in my shop. I made some cables and I'm in 
the process of trying to talk to my K2 via the computer. I have a KPA100 in the 
K2. The software I'm using is the K2 remote from the Elecraft web page. I have 
set it for comm port1 (the only port available on the computer) and get a 
message that no K2 can be found.

I have ohmed the cables and think they are good. They also have connectors for 
a KAT100 (which is backordered) and a XV50 (which I'm having other problems). 
So the only thing connected is the K2 and the computer.

Is there an easy way to determine if the problem is in the KPA100, the cables 
or the computer?

Thank you in advance for any help.

Best,
DW Holtman
WB7SSN
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[Elecraft] Dangerous Low Volage (WAS: Power pole for K3?)

2008-04-19 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I see you got plenty of answers about the APPs, Bill. You will need to
provide your own suitable connectors for the power supply end of the cable.

You mention having high-capacity batteries and a 70-amp Astron supply. It
sounds like you have experience with high-current supplies and understand
how dangerous they can be, but there are a lot of readers here who may not
have that background. 

I mention it because many Hams think 13.8 VDC is safe to handle. It's *NOT*.
It's not the voltage, of course, but the current. A short often produces a
flash of molten metal that may continue for a while if the resistance is
enough to avoid tripping a breaker or crowbar circuit.

It can take off a finger or a hand, or very severely injure a person in an
instant should a ring or watch band get across the supply line, immediately
transformed by the current into red-hot metal burning its way through flesh.
In my days working in the field as an aircraft radio/radar tech I knew some
who were missing fingers because they neglected to take off a wedding band
when working. It's not a nice way to lose a hand or finger. It's not always
quick. It can take a while, with the ring or watch band welded solidly to
the terminals by the current as the hot metal eats its way through a finger
or wrist. 

I've seen tempered steel screwdrivers literally explode into a spray of
molten metal blobs when dropped across a high-current, low-voltage supply -
blobs of molten steel that splatter the face and eyes of the unwary worker
not wearing protective gear. Less severe shorts can set wiring, and the
shack, on fire in short order, all without opening a breaker or tripping the
crowbar protective circuit in the power supply. Even a more moderate 35 Amp
supply can start a fire or cause a severe burn under the right conditions. 

Working on shipboard and aircraft systems using 12 to 28 VDC at high
currents, I've learned to treat such supplies with the same respect I do a
3KV high-voltage supply. The concerns and procedures needed to be safe are
different, but either a high voltage or a low-voltage, high-current supply
is dangerous in its own way. 

I use soldered-on ring terminals on my Astron supplies that provide large,
low-resistance contact areas with the lugs and which cannot be pulled loose
without physically breaking the wire, and I make very sure there are no
metallic objects (cabinets, connectors, other equipment, etc.) located where
they might be accidentally moved and make contact with exposed supply
terminals anywhere. And then I make sure the terminals on my power supply
(and anywhere else) are carefully covered and insulated from accidental
contact, just in case. 

Ron AC7AC 


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK etc via external unit and KB

2008-04-19 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
yes of course, what i basically need is a keyer - i hadn't thought  
that through.


I'll probably avoid that since it will just tempt me to us it instead  
of working on my morse.


--
The rung of a ladder was never meant to rest upon, but only to hold a  
man's

foot long enough to enable him to put the other somewhat higher.
-Thomas Henry Huxley, biologist and writer (1825-1995)

On 19 Apr 2008, at 15:17, Greg wrote:
I think K1EL has something similar to this called a K40?  It even  
has the

correct K designation.  :)  But...its output is setup only for the
straight key input and not paddle input.  So some mods would be  
required.


One of the items on the list is to accept input from the KEY jack as  
well as

the paddles.  When done, no mods to the above item would be necessary.

73
Greg
AB7R
Snowed in in APRIL!!!

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David  
Ferrington,

M0XDF
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 3:39 AM
To: Crafters
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK etc via external unit and KB


Having just read the Waters  Stanton add in this months RadCom, I see
on pg 2 an add for the Icom IC-7700 and its content :
Another first: built-in PSK31 and RTTY. Just add a USB keyboard

Apart from taking exception - it's not a first, the K3 was I believe
(but no point complaining - K3 doesn't have a KB yet), this got me to
thinking...

Would some bright spark like to produce a very small USB keyboard to
paddle converter kit? I would guess a PIC that would produce the
appropriate contact closures?
This is far beyond me in design, but while we wait for Elecraft to
possibly add some form of keyboard interface, this would allow us to
drive the built in PSK and RTTY in the K3 via the paddle input.

I know there is the NUE-PSK unit, but since most of the requirement is
in the K3, I thought a small unit to convert key press to contact
closure might be possible?

73 de M0XDF, K3 #174

--
God gives every bird his worm, but he does not throw it into the nest.
-Swedish proverb

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply.

2008-04-19 Thread ab2tc

And I have been using mine for well over three, first with my IC-718 and now
with my K3. No evidence of RF noise or hash whatsoever. In a QST comparative
test several years ago, the MFJ-4125 was found found to be one of the
quietest of all, regardless of price. The fan could be quieter but it's not
obnoxious.

Knut - AB2TC


zl4vv wrote:
 
 I have been using the MFJ 4125 for about two years, with my K2 and now the
 K3.  I have found no evidence of noise at all.
 
 73
 
 Max/ZL4VV
 
 

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/K3-power-supply.-tp16778829p16784311.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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RE: [Elecraft] Power pole for K3?

2008-04-19 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

 The only thing not in the archive is that you can buy the 
 ready-made cable from Elecraft for $10.

To make matters easy ... it looks like one could order part 
number KPCA-F (part number from the cable from the factory 
assembled K3). 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 



 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Cutter
 Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 10:24 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft Reflector
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power pole for K3?
 
 
 The only thing not in the archive is that you can buy the 
 ready-made cable 
 from Elecraft for $10.
 
 K3$2-3000
 Cable$10
 
 Ship, tar, ha'porth.
 
 David
 G3UNA
 
 
 
 On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:50:32 +0100, you wrote:
 
 Yep, I confirm that.
 And we seem to be opening up an old thread again, all this has been 
 cover at least twice before and it available in the archives.
 
 I agree.  Let's not start that all over again...
 Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq
 
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 power supply.

2008-04-19 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

MFJ now have a version of the 4125 with Anderson PowerPole 
connector on the front panel.  I believe it's the MFJ-4125P 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of ab2tc
 Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 11:25 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply.
 
 
 
 And I have been using mine for well over three, first with my 
 IC-718 and now with my K3. No evidence of RF noise or hash 
 whatsoever. In a QST comparative test several years ago, the 
 MFJ-4125 was found found to be one of the quietest of all, 
 regardless of price. The fan could be quieter but it's not obnoxious.
 
 Knut - AB2TC
 
 
 zl4vv wrote:
  
  I have been using the MFJ 4125 for about two years, with my 
 K2 and now 
  the K3.  I have found no evidence of noise at all.
  
  73
  
  Max/ZL4VV
  
  
 
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://www.nabble.com/K3-power-supply.-tp16778829p16784311.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
 

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RE: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK etc via external unit and KB

2008-04-19 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

Greg,

 I think K1EL has something similar to this called a K40?  It 
 even has the correct K designation.  :)  But...its output 
 is setup only for the straight key input and not paddle 
 input.  So some mods would be required.

K1EL's Keyboard to serial IC http://k1el.tripod.com/ATKBD.html 
comes close but the output is ASCII data at 1200 or 9600 bps and 
not paddle closures.  It would take a second PIC to convert 
the ASCII to paddle closures at a fixed WPM rate appropriate 
for data modes. 

It would sure be nice if the factory programming port - which, with 
its PCD (data), PGC (clock) and +5V signals looks suspiciously like 
a nonstandard i2C (PS/2) port - could be repurposed as a keyboard 
input for at least RTTY/PSK31 and maybe control of the keyer 
memories.

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
   




 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Greg
 Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 10:18 AM
 To: David Ferrington, M0XDF; Crafters
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK etc via external unit and KB
 
 
 I think K1EL has something similar to this called a K40?  It 
 even has the correct K designation.  :)  But...its output 
 is setup only for the straight key input and not paddle 
 input.  So some mods would be required.
 
 One of the items on the list is to accept input from the KEY 
 jack as well as the paddles.  When done, no mods to the above 
 item would be necessary.
 
 73
 Greg
 AB7R
 Snowed in in APRIL!!!
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David 
 Ferrington, M0XDF
 Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 3:39 AM
 To: Crafters
 Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK etc via external unit and KB
 
 
 Having just read the Waters  Stanton add in this months 
 RadCom, I see on pg 2 an add for the Icom IC-7700 and its 
 content : Another first: built-in PSK31 and RTTY. Just add a 
 USB keyboard
 
 Apart from taking exception - it's not a first, the K3 was I 
 believe (but no point complaining - K3 doesn't have a KB 
 yet), this got me to thinking...
 
 Would some bright spark like to produce a very small USB 
 keyboard to paddle converter kit? I would guess a PIC that 
 would produce the appropriate contact closures? This is far 
 beyond me in design, but while we wait for Elecraft to 
 possibly add some form of keyboard interface, this would 
 allow us to drive the built in PSK and RTTY in the K3 via the 
 paddle input.
 
 I know there is the NUE-PSK unit, but since most of the 
 requirement is in the K3, I thought a small unit to convert 
 key press to contact closure might be possible?
 
 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
 
 --
 God gives every bird his worm, but he does not throw it into 
 the nest. -Swedish proverb
 
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Re: [Elecraft] two transceivers and one antenna

2008-04-19 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Scott
Haven't done it myself, but I've read descriptions
where others have done it with relays.  One radio
would be connected to the feedline, and the other radio
would be connected to a dummy load.  At the throw
of a switch, their connections would be reversed.
That should provide all the protection you would need,
plus be more convenient just having a switch at the
operating position, instead of a manual coax switch
with three coax runs to it.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Scott McDowell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, April 18, 2008 7:55 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] two transceivers and one antenna


 Hi
 I need some ones opinion on something I am thinking about doing.
 I sure hate to have to say, I wish I hadn't done that!
 I have two transceivers and one multi-band yagis antenna.
 Switching the coax from one rig to the other gets to be a hassle.
 I've been thinking about getting a coaxial switch with
 two outputs and one input. Then connecting one transceiver
 to one output and the other transceiver to the other output.
 Then connect the input to the beam. Is there going to be
 enough seperation in the switch  to keep from damaging
 the transceiver that is turned off and switched out of
 the circuit? Has anyone done this?
 Any information appreciated.
 73
 Scott
 N5SM
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FS on QTH.COM

2008-04-19 Thread George Victor
What is the serial #?
What did you pay for it (less shipping)?
George


On Sat, Apr 19, 2008 at 10:39 AM, Dave G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 If anyone is interested...
  K3/100 FS on qth.com
  Listing #660545

  Usual disclaimer
  No Financial interest...
  --
  Dave G.   KK7SS
  '65 MK III Sprite in Richland, WA
  Two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity.
  But I'm not so sure about the universe.  ... Albert Einstein.

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK etc via external unit and KB

2008-04-19 Thread Robert Tellefsen
David
Some time back there was a QST article to build
a cw keyer into a keyboard.  I don't know if anyone
tried to make a commerical product out of it, but
the idea has been around for a while.
A little research might turn up a product that
already does this.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: David Ferrington, M0XDF [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Crafters Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 3:38 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK etc via external unit and KB


 Having just read the Waters  Stanton add in this months RadCom, I
see
 on pg 2 an add for the Icom IC-7700 and its content :
 Another first: built-in PSK31 and RTTY. Just add a USB keyboard

 Apart from taking exception - it's not a first, the K3 was I believe
 (but no point complaining - K3 doesn't have a KB yet), this got me
to
 thinking...

 Would some bright spark like to produce a very small USB keyboard to
 paddle converter kit? I would guess a PIC that would produce the
 appropriate contact closures?
 This is far beyond me in design, but while we wait for Elecraft to
 possibly add some form of keyboard interface, this would allow us to
 drive the built in PSK and RTTY in the K3 via the paddle input.

 I know there is the NUE-PSK unit, but since most of the requirement
is
 in the K3, I thought a small unit to convert key press to contact
 closure might be possible?

 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174

 -- 
 God gives every bird his worm, but he does not throw it into the
nest.
 -Swedish proverb

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[Elecraft] SPE Expert 1K-FA Amplifer and K2 and K3

2008-04-19 Thread Phil Debbie Salas
The SPE amp will respond to the K3 Band Data output exactly as the Yaesu 
Band Data Output.  The only issue is that the K3 uses open drain outputs.  I 
don't believe that the SPE amp has pull-up resistors on the Band Data 
inputs, so you may need to put 4.7K pull up resistors to 5V on the K3 band 
data outputs.  But you can put a voltmeter on one of the SPE band data 
inputs and see if it reads 5VDC.  If it does, then you are all set.


Remember that the SPE amp puts out full power with about 20 watts of drive, 
so adjust your K3 drive power accordingly (no ALC interface for the K3 yet).


Phil - AD5X 


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Re: [Elecraft] Dangerous Low Volage (WAS: Power pole for K3?)

2008-04-19 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Ron
One other precaution I've always used is to ensure
that all hot terminals are always female with no
exposed metal to accidentally allow a short.  I know
this is stating the obvious but it may not be to those
who are new to this.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 8:10 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Dangerous Low Volage (WAS: Power pole for K3?)


I see you got plenty of answers about the APPs, Bill. You will need to
provide your own suitable connectors for the power supply end of the
cable.

You mention having high-capacity batteries and a 70-amp Astron supply.
It
sounds like you have experience with high-current supplies and
understand
how dangerous they can be, but there are a lot of readers here who may
not
have that background.

I mention it because many Hams think 13.8 VDC is safe to handle. It's
*NOT*.
It's not the voltage, of course, but the current. A short often
produces a
flash of molten metal that may continue for a while if the resistance
is
enough to avoid tripping a breaker or crowbar circuit.

It can take off a finger or a hand, or very severely injure a person
in an
instant should a ring or watch band get across the supply line,
immediately
transformed by the current into red-hot metal burning its way through
flesh.
In my days working in the field as an aircraft radio/radar tech I knew
some
who were missing fingers because they neglected to take off a wedding
band
when working. It's not a nice way to lose a hand or finger. It's not
always
quick. It can take a while, with the ring or watch band welded solidly
to
the terminals by the current as the hot metal eats its way through a
finger
or wrist.

I've seen tempered steel screwdrivers literally explode into a spray
of
molten metal blobs when dropped across a high-current, low-voltage
supply -
blobs of molten steel that splatter the face and eyes of the unwary
worker
not wearing protective gear. Less severe shorts can set wiring, and
the
shack, on fire in short order, all without opening a breaker or
tripping the
crowbar protective circuit in the power supply. Even a more moderate
35 Amp
supply can start a fire or cause a severe burn under the right
conditions.

Working on shipboard and aircraft systems using 12 to 28 VDC at high
currents, I've learned to treat such supplies with the same respect I
do a
3KV high-voltage supply. The concerns and procedures needed to be safe
are
different, but either a high voltage or a low-voltage, high-current
supply
is dangerous in its own way.

I use soldered-on ring terminals on my Astron supplies that provide
large,
low-resistance contact areas with the lugs and which cannot be pulled
loose
without physically breaking the wire, and I make very sure there are
no
metallic objects (cabinets, connectors, other equipment, etc.) located
where
they might be accidentally moved and make contact with exposed supply
terminals anywhere. And then I make sure the terminals on my power
supply
(and anywhere else) are carefully covered and insulated from
accidental
contact, just in case.

Ron AC7AC


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[Elecraft] K3 power supply.

2008-04-19 Thread Phil Debbie Salas
I replaced the rear low-current connectors on the MFJ-4125 with two pairs of 
Anderson Powerpoles.  Info is in the Equipment Modifications section of my 
website at www.ad5x.com.


Phil - AD5X 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply.

2008-04-19 Thread David Yarnes
MFJ website says two pair of APP's, but they want $25 more.  I think you 
could rig up a couple of pigtails for a lot less than that.  No picture yet 
on the website.


Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: Joe Subich, W4TV [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: 'ab2tc' [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 9:02 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 power supply.




MFJ now have a version of the 4125 with Anderson PowerPole
connector on the front panel.  I believe it's the MFJ-4125P

73,

  ... Joe, W4TV


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply.

2008-04-19 Thread David Yarnes
Correction...guess it's only $15 more.  First price I saw for the 
standard version was on GigaParts.  Maybe they will discount the newer 
version as well.


Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: Joe Subich, W4TV [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: 'ab2tc' [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 9:02 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 power supply.




MFJ now have a version of the 4125 with Anderson PowerPole
connector on the front panel.  I believe it's the MFJ-4125P

73,

  ... Joe, W4TV



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of ab2tc
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 11:25 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply.



And I have been using mine for well over three, first with my
IC-718 and now with my K3. No evidence of RF noise or hash
whatsoever. In a QST comparative test several years ago, the
MFJ-4125 was found found to be one of the quietest of all,
regardless of price. The fan could be quieter but it's not obnoxious.

Knut - AB2TC


zl4vv wrote:

 I have been using the MFJ 4125 for about two years, with my
K2 and now
 the K3.  I have found no evidence of noise at all.

 73

 Max/ZL4VV



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RE: [Elecraft] K3 power supply.

2008-04-19 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

 I think you could rig up a couple of pigtails for a lot less than 
 that.  

Or modify the 4125 as shown by AD5X: 
  http://www.ad5x.com/images/Presentations/MFJ4125.pdf 
In any case, the factory built option is there for those 
who want it.  

I'm considering PowerPole modified Astron SS30 supplies to 
free up my bench supply. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 


 -Original Message-
 From: David Yarnes [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 1:10 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'ab2tc'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power supply.
 
 
 MFJ website says two pair of APP's, but they want $25 more. 
  I think you 
 could rig up a couple of pigtails for a lot less than that.  
 No picture yet 
 on the website.
 
 Dave W7AQK
 
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Joe Subich, W4TV [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: 'ab2tc' [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 9:02 AM
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 power supply.
 
 
 
  MFJ now have a version of the 4125 with Anderson PowerPole
  connector on the front panel.  I believe it's the MFJ-4125P
 
  73,
 
... Joe, W4TV
 

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Re: [Elecraft] SPE Expert 1K-FA Amplifer and K2 and K3

2008-04-19 Thread Stewart Baker
Hi Chris,
I am using my SPE amplifier with both my K2 and K3 and it works
very well. I have put an entry in the Wiki K3 which describes the
band information interfacing. So far I have only used the K3 with
this.

The only thing you have to watch is the input power to the
amplifier. I have my TUNE set at 5W and that is sufficient to get
a good SWR reading on the SPE meter. I use about 10-12W for max UK
legal out.

73
Stewart G3RXQ
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 14:31:13 -, Chris Page wrote:
 Is anybody using the SPE Expert 1K-FA amplifer with the K2 or
K3,
 please?

 I was wondering which CAT option the amplifier needs to be
selected
 to enable it to receive band information from the K2 and K3?

 Also, I would appreciate any advice on using the amplifier with
the
 K2 and K3 in the light of other's experience.

 Thanks and 73 de Chris, N4CJ (G4BUE)

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Re: [Elecraft] Dangerous Low Volage (WAS: Power pole for K3?)

2008-04-19 Thread Rick Dettinger

On Apr 19, 2008, at 10:06 AM, Robert Tellefsen wrote:

Hi Ron
One other precaution I've always used is to ensure
that all hot terminals are always female with no
exposed metal to accidentally allow a short.  I know
this is stating the obvious but it may not be to those
who are new to this.
73, Bob N6WG





  My TenTec 1340 QRP kit came stock with an RCA jack for the 12 volt  
supply.  I made the mistake of attaching the power cable to my Astron  
35 supply, first.  I didn't lose any body parts but did cause the  
supply to relay out when I made accidental contact with the aluminum  
chassis.  Not a good idea on TenTecs part, even though I didn't use  
good sense in not attaching the cable to the rig first.  For QRP, I  
should have used a small inline fuse in the positive cable lead.   I  
do now.  I also have changed the jack to K2 style.


73
Rick Dettinger K7MW 
  
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RE: [Elecraft] two transceivers and one antenna

2008-04-19 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


Although it's a bit on the wimpy side, MFJ makes an RF Safety Switch 
that does just this.  See: 
 http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-1703 

It is also possible to build your own - of much higher quality - 
by using a pair of Top Ten Devices A/BSS relays and some T 
connectors. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robert 
 Tellefsen
 Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 12:31 PM
 To: Scott McDowell; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] two transceivers and one antenna
 
 
 Hi Scott
 Haven't done it myself, but I've read descriptions
 where others have done it with relays.  One radio
 would be connected to the feedline, and the other radio
 would be connected to a dummy load.  At the throw
 of a switch, their connections would be reversed.
 That should provide all the protection you would need,
 plus be more convenient just having a switch at the
 operating position, instead of a manual coax switch
 with three coax runs to it.
 
 Good luck and 73
 Bob N6WG
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Scott McDowell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Friday, April 18, 2008 7:55 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] two transceivers and one antenna
 
 
  Hi
  I need some ones opinion on something I am thinking about doing.
  I sure hate to have to say, I wish I hadn't done that!
  I have two transceivers and one multi-band yagis antenna.
  Switching the coax from one rig to the other gets to be a hassle.
  I've been thinking about getting a coaxial switch with
  two outputs and one input. Then connecting one transceiver
  to one output and the other transceiver to the other output.
  Then connect the input to the beam. Is there going to be
  enough seperation in the switch  to keep from damaging
  the transceiver that is turned off and switched out of
  the circuit? Has anyone done this?
  Any information appreciated.
  73
  Scott
  N5SM
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FS on QTH.COM

2008-04-19 Thread Dave G.
George,

It's not mine !!! I just happened to see it on qth.com... Sorry  ;-(

On 19 Apr 2008 at 12:33, George Victor wrote:

 What is the serial #?
 What did you pay for it (less shipping)?
 George
 
 
 On Sat, Apr 19, 2008 at 10:39 AM, Dave G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  If
 anyone is interested...   K3/100 FS on qth.com   Listing #660545  
  Usual disclaimer   No Financial interest...   --   Dave G.   KK7SS
   '65 MK III Sprite in Richland, WA   Two things are infinite, the
 universe and human stupidity.   But I'm not so sure about the
 universe.  ... Albert Einstein.   
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--
Dave G.   KK7SS
'65 MK III Sprite in Richland, WA
Two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity.
But I'm not so sure about the universe.  ... Albert Einstein.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FS on QTH.COM

2008-04-19 Thread Jim Cox

It was SN 5XX and it has been sold.   Jim K4JAF

- Original Message - 
From: Dave G. [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: George Victor [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 FS on QTH.COM



George,

It's not mine !!! I just happened to see it on qth.com... Sorry  ;-(

On 19 Apr 2008 at 12:33, George Victor wrote:


What is the serial #?
What did you pay for it (less shipping)?
George


On Sat, Apr 19, 2008 at 10:39 AM, Dave G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  If
anyone is interested...   K3/100 FS on qth.com   Listing #660545  
 Usual disclaimer   No Financial interest...   --   Dave G.   KK7SS
  '65 MK III Sprite in Richland, WA   Two things are infinite, the
universe and human stupidity.   But I'm not so sure about the
universe.  ... Albert Einstein.   
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--
Dave G.   KK7SS
'65 MK III Sprite in Richland, WA
Two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity.
But I'm not so sure about the universe.  ... Albert Einstein.

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[Elecraft] FS K2/100

2008-04-19 Thread Wim K6TE

For sale Mint Elecraft K2-100 With the following options

-K2 -K2 HF Transceiver S/N 3553 (late serial already came from day one with
matched xtals, VCO temp compensation, pa shield etc)
- K2 and KPA100 built with the K2 toroid kit from The Toroidguy, AA3WF
- Filters Aligned with Spectrogram
-FT100 VFO knob 
-KIO2 -K2 AUX I/O RS-232 Interface
-KNB2 -K2 Noise Blanker
-KPA100 -Internal 100 Watt PA
-KSB2 -K2 SSB Option
- MH2 Elecraft microphone with Heil element
- K2DI  digital mode interface in the back (RTTY, PSK etc) by EA3BLQ
   No need to use or disconnect microphone to use the digital soundcard
modes
- Signalink SL1+ soundcard interface (just connect to line in/out of your
PC)
- serial rs232 computer interface cable, power cable

All manuals included. All in excellent shape and never around smoke. In 9 
out of 10 Condition, original builder owner
$1050 shipped CONUS   paypal OK
Wim Dewilder K6TE
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.nabble.com/file/p16786970/front_k2_small.jpg 
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Re: [Elecraft] RS-232 Question

2008-04-19 Thread Don Wilhelm

Do you have PORT set to ON in the secondary menu?
It may be instructive to check the port using the manual commands shown 
in the KIO2 manual and Hyperterm or some similar dumb terminal application.


Do you have any other devices that are known to work from a serial 
port?  An old external modem for instance?  If so, you could connect 
that to the computer port to check the port operation,

Can you move the K2 to another computer with a known good serial port?
It is a process of elimination.  If you have a 'scope and lots of 
patience, you can check the TXD and RXD signals to see which ones are 
working.  Check the web for information on RS-232 signalling to see what 
the expected signal levels are for both mark and space.


73,
Don W3FPR

DW Holtman wrote:

Hello,

 I have hooked up an old computer out in my shop. I made some cables and I'm in 
the process of trying to talk to my K2 via the computer. I have a KPA100 in the 
K2. The software I'm using is the K2 remote from the Elecraft web page. I have 
set it for comm port1 (the only port available on the computer) and get a 
message that no K2 can be found.

I have ohmed the cables and think they are good. They also have connectors for 
a KAT100 (which is backordered) and a XV50 (which I'm having other problems). 
So the only thing connected is the K2 and the computer.

Is there an easy way to determine if the problem is in the KPA100, the cables 
or the computer?

Thank you in advance for any help.

Best,
DW Holtman
WB7SSN
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Re: [Elecraft] Dangerous Low Voltage (WAS: Power pole for K3?)

2008-04-19 Thread AJSOENKE
Another low voltage power source that is in common use is the lead-acid  
storage battery used  on cars and especially the deep cycle marine battery  
favored by hams for backup.  Usually a ring or watchband is not a problem  
because 
of the terminal spacing at the battery, but the danger is very much  present at 
the other end of the cables where it may be connected to a terminal  strip 
etc. 
 
The added danger of these batteries is they can deliver as much as 800 amps  
depending on the internal resistance of the battery and cables.  If the  
internal resistance is as little as 1/10th Ohm at 14 volts that is 140 amps. 
The  
power generated in the battery under these conditions is 140X140/10 or 1960  
Watts.
 
2KW heating the acid contents of a battery can cause it to explode from  
steam pressure in a matter of seconds, thus spraying everything in the area 
with  
sulphuric acid and hot lead. When this happens in a car the result is usually 
a  totalled vehicle and seriously injured mechanic and passers-by. 
 
I never use a wrench  which has exposed metal surfaces long enough to  short 
a battery, and I always disconnect the negative terminal (- ground assumed  
here) and cap it before working around them.
 
Al WA6VNN
__
 
In a message dated 4/19/2008 8:11:26 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I see you got plenty of answers about the APPs, Bill.  You will need to
provide your own suitable connectors for the power supply  end of the cable.

You mention having high-capacity batteries and a 70-amp  Astron supply. It
sounds like you have experience with high-current supplies  and understand
how dangerous they can be, but there are a lot of readers here  who may not
have that background. 

I mention it because many Hams  think 13.8 VDC is safe to handle. It's *NOT*.
It's not the voltage, of  course, but the current. A short often produces a
flash of molten metal that  may continue for a while if the resistance is
enough to avoid tripping a  breaker or crowbar circuit.

It can take off a finger or a hand, or very  severely injure a person in an
instant should a ring or watch band get across  the supply line, immediately
transformed by the current into red-hot metal  burning its way through flesh.
In my days working in the field as an aircraft  radio/radar tech I knew some
who were missing fingers because they neglected  to take off a wedding band
when working. It's not a nice way to lose a hand  or finger. It's not always
quick. It can take a while, with the ring or watch  band welded solidly to
the terminals by the current as the hot metal eats its  way through a finger
or wrist. 

I've seen tempered steel screwdrivers  literally explode into a spray of
molten metal blobs when dropped across a  high-current, low-voltage supply -
blobs of molten steel that splatter the  face and eyes of the unwary worker
not wearing protective gear. Less severe  shorts can set wiring, and the
shack, on fire in short order, all without  opening a breaker or tripping the
crowbar protective circuit in the power  supply. Even a more moderate 35 Amp
supply can start a fire or cause a severe  burn under the right conditions. 

Working on shipboard and aircraft  systems using 12 to 28 VDC at high
currents, I've learned to treat such  supplies with the same respect I do a
3KV high-voltage supply. The concerns  and procedures needed to be safe are
different, but either a high voltage or  a low-voltage, high-current supply
is dangerous in its own way. 

I use  soldered-on ring terminals on my Astron supplies that provide  large,
low-resistance contact areas with the lugs and which cannot be pulled  loose
without physically breaking the wire, and I make very sure there are  no
metallic objects (cabinets, connectors, other equipment, etc.) located  where
they might be accidentally moved and make contact with exposed  supply
terminals anywhere. And then I make sure the terminals on my power  supply
(and anywhere else) are carefully covered and insulated from  accidental
contact, just in case. 

Ron AC7AC  


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**Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car 
listings at AOL Autos.  
(http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp0030002851)
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Rob Sherwood's full text reply

2008-04-19 Thread ab2tc

I currently only have the 2.7kHz 5-pole filter installed and experience
absolutely *no* difference in sound switching between USB and LSB on noise.
My DSP filter setting is 300-2700 which is my default when QRM is light. I
also watch the signal with the spectrum analyzer program SR5 and see my
slight high cut from the equalizer, but otherwise no tilt. If there was a
tilt, it would reverse when switching between USB and LSB. Maybe I have been
lucky. I have the 1.8kHz filter on back order for use during contests or
other extreme QRM conditions. Only time will show if it was worth the money.
The brick wall feeling of the DSP filters is something else! There is simply
absolutely *no* sign of a beat note on the wrong side of zero beat
whatsoever. Never experienced that with a non-DSP receiver.

Knut - AB2TC

DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
 
 Okay...I sent out about a dozen private forwards around 0800z.  Just
 got back on line, and my in box double that again.
 
 So shown below is a cut/paste of the full text NCØB reply.  Nothing
 earth-shattering.  I also received (from a separate source) a note
 indicating that the 250hz filter (which, as mentioned below, is more
 like 375hz) came in at 98, which seems to fit with what Rob is saying
 (but Rob never told me 98).
 
 ENJOY!
 
 de Doug KR2Q
 
 
 from  Rob  Terri Sherwood [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 toDOUGLAS ZWIEBEL [EMAIL PROTECTED],
 date  Fri, Apr 18, 2008 at 10:27 PM
 subject   Re: K3 various roofing filters
   
   
 Hi,
 The results are on my web site now. http://www.sherweng.com/table.html
 
 While I did not include the 250 Hz filter (which is more like 375 Hz),
 it fits between the 200 and 400 in dynamic range (DR3).
 They all work.  I doubt anyone could tell the difference on the air
 from a DR3 standpoint.
 One can certainly tell the difference from a bandwidth standpoint.
 Personally I would use the 500 and 200.  One could also choose the 400
 and the 200.
 On SSB I think I would add the 2.1.  One can always set the DSP to 1.8
 when needed.  If a contester only, maybe the 1.8 instead of the 2.1,
 but I would have to evaluate that over time, and I did not have the
 2.1, and I did not listen to the K3 in an SSB contest.
 
 The 2.7 in my borrowed K3 had some passband tilt or ripple, and I
 could never get LSB and USB to sound the same on noise.
 Feel free to post any of this on the reflector.
 73, Rob Sherwood, NC0B
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Re: [Elecraft] Spectrogram v16 - FREEWARE

2008-04-19 Thread Tom Hammond

Hi Ken, et al:

At 06:23 04/19/2008, Ken K3IU wrote:
For those interested, Spectrogram is again available as Freeware. 
Richard's website, 
http://www.visualizationsoftware.com/gram/gramdl.html  says:


Version 16 is being made available as freeware to replace the older 
freeware versions of the software relied upon by the majority of 
Spectrogram users.  The download at left is a self-extracting setup 
program that will install Spectrogram on a single computer.


Thanks a bunch for this info Ken...

but, please remember that the K1 and K2 alignment documentation written for
using Spectrogram to align your Xtal Filters is written for using Spectrogram
v5.1.7.  Version 16 will be considerably different from v5.1.7 so you will have
to deal with coming up with some of your own parameter settings (in 
Spectrogram)

since they will no longer match those specified for v5.1.7.

There will be NO HARM DONE by using v16, only some possible time lost getting
things set up.

Spectrogram v5.1.7 is still available on the K1- and K2-specific web pages at
http://www.n0ss.net... still free.

73,

Tom   N0SS 


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RE: [Elecraft] K3: Rob Sherwood's full text reply

2008-04-19 Thread Jim
Knut, no difference here either.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of ab2tc
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 4:20 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Rob Sherwood's full text reply


I currently only have the 2.7kHz 5-pole filter installed and experience
absolutely *no* difference in sound switching between USB and LSB on noise.
My DSP filter setting is 300-2700 which is my default when QRM is light. I
also watch the signal with the spectrum analyzer program SR5 and see my
slight high cut from the equalizer, but otherwise no tilt. If there was a
tilt, it would reverse when switching between USB and LSB. Maybe I have been
lucky. I have the 1.8kHz filter on back order for use during contests or
other extreme QRM conditions. Only time will show if it was worth the money.
The brick wall feeling of the DSP filters is something else! There is simply
absolutely *no* sign of a beat note on the wrong side of zero beat
whatsoever. Never experienced that with a non-DSP receiver.

Knut - AB2TC

DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
 
 Okay...I sent out about a dozen private forwards around 0800z.  Just
 got back on line, and my in box double that again.
 
 So shown below is a cut/paste of the full text NCØB reply.  Nothing
 earth-shattering.  I also received (from a separate source) a note
 indicating that the 250hz filter (which, as mentioned below, is more
 like 375hz) came in at 98, which seems to fit with what Rob is saying
 (but Rob never told me 98).
 
 ENJOY!
 
 de Doug KR2Q
 
 
 from  Rob  Terri Sherwood [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 toDOUGLAS ZWIEBEL [EMAIL PROTECTED],
 date  Fri, Apr 18, 2008 at 10:27 PM
 subject   Re: K3 various roofing filters
   
   
 Hi,
 The results are on my web site now. http://www.sherweng.com/table.html
 
 While I did not include the 250 Hz filter (which is more like 375 Hz),
 it fits between the 200 and 400 in dynamic range (DR3).
 They all work.  I doubt anyone could tell the difference on the air
 from a DR3 standpoint.
 One can certainly tell the difference from a bandwidth standpoint.
 Personally I would use the 500 and 200.  One could also choose the 400
 and the 200.
 On SSB I think I would add the 2.1.  One can always set the DSP to 1.8
 when needed.  If a contester only, maybe the 1.8 instead of the 2.1,
 but I would have to evaluate that over time, and I did not have the
 2.1, and I did not listen to the K3 in an SSB contest.
 
 The 2.7 in my borrowed K3 had some passband tilt or ripple, and I
 could never get LSB and USB to sound the same on noise.
 Feel free to post any of this on the reflector.
 73, Rob Sherwood, NC0B
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-- 
View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/K3%3A-Rob-Sherwood%27s-full-text-reply-tp16783407p1678
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Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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RE: [Elecraft] Dangerous Low Voltage (WAS: Power pole for K3?)

2008-04-19 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I never use a wrench  which has exposed metal surfaces long enough to  short

a battery, and I always disconnect the negative terminal (- ground assumed  
here) and cap it before working around them.
 
Al WA6VNN



Disconnecting power before working on the gear to remove/replace parts is
basic to both low and high voltage supplies.

My one up-close and frightening experience with low-voltage high-current
supply shorts occurred on an F-86 (Korean war era jet fighter) flight line
at Lockheed. It was the middle of the night and bitterly cold as I and
another tech worked on two fighters sitting side-by-side. They were powered
by ground  carts. We had lowered the canopies almost all the way down to
conserve a little heat in the frigid cockpits as we ran through the avionics
ground checks. 

Suddenly I heard one of the power carts groan under heavy load. It caused me
to look up and out of the cockpit to see what was going on. The plane next
to me had smoke billowing from the cockpit, coming out around the
almost-closed canopy. I could see the other tech's head lying against the
canopy. He was apparently unconscious. 

I hit the canopy button and clambered out as it slowly wound open, yelling
for help, very conscious that these planes were fully-fueled bombs sitting
wingtip to wingtip waiting for a fire to set them off. We got the guy out.
He was splattered with burns but the plane wasn't on fire.

Later we learned that he had discovered a defective circuit breaker. He had
a replacement with him, but decided he didn't want to open the canopy and
climb down to disconnect the power cart. The circuit breaker connected to
power by a wire with a lug on the end that attached with a screw into a
threaded hole in a large copper bus bar. As he was turning the screw, he
dropped the screwdriver and it fell touching the power bus bar and the
aluminum side of the console. He got a face full molten metal blobs as the
shaft of the tool literally exploded in his face. He instinctively stood
bolt upright in the cockpit, smashing his head against the closed canopy and
knocking himself unconscious. 

Lockheed management and the US Air Force were not impressed. They had a
badly damaged jet fighter with molten metal drooled down the side of the
console and cockpit and it could have been much, much worse. 

I think he found a new line of work.

Even minor short circuits can cause lots of grief. It's very easy to
instantly fry a PC board trace with a temporary short circuit. Those can
usually be fixed (once you find the break), but it's still a very
unnecessary and easily avoided damage by following simple safety protocols,
including removing power before touching the circuit to remove parts or
taking any other short-cuts.  

And for those of us who regularly work around equipment with high voltages -
a few hundred volts and up - allowing ourselves to be lulled into complacent
behavior by the low voltages in most gear today can be dangerous. One time I
was troubleshooting a receiver that had something that smelled hot so I was
gingerly touching resistors to see if one was overheating when I suddenly
remembered I was working on a tube-type receiver with a 250V supply!

Ron AC7AC

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[Elecraft] help getting first firmware update onto K3

2008-04-19 Thread Marin QRP
I am trying to do my first firmware upgrade of the K3 but am
unsuccessful at getting it installed.

I am using the USB to 9 pin rig cable.  I downloaded the Elecraft K3
Utility last night plus I've downloaded the latest drivers from the
Prolific website.  While I was successful getting the Elecraft K3
firmware onto my computer, I am not able to get it onto the K3.  I
have listed some things that may help someone understand where I am
stuck at and help me get the firmware onto my K3.   I apologize for
this being so long, but I'd rather not leave anything important out so
someone can recognize what's missing.

Per the instructions in Elecraft KUSB USB to Serial Adapter looking in
Device Manager and then under Ports, the Prolific USB to Serial Comm
Port is COM 5

The DRIVER Tab for the Prolific USB to Serial Comm Port Properties
says that I have the latest version 2.0.2.8

Under Port Settings of the same Comm Port Properties this is what it says -
Bits per second9600
Data Bits8
ParityNone
Stop Bits1
Flow ControlNone

If I click the ADVANCED Tab in the above, it lets me change the Com
Port #.It is still at 5 right now - the default.

On the K3, going to CONFIG then FW REVS sub menu it says my CURRENT
FIRMWARE installed is 01.69.

When I used the Elecraft K3 Utility to get firmware from the Elecraft
website the first time it downloaded 7 files onto my computer.  Then I
tried it later and it said it copied 1 file from Elecraft.

Also on the K3 Utility it stated, K3 Boot Loader is ready for MCU
Firmware load, RS232 38400 bps I got this message twice in a row.

I am still getting the message
MCU programming failed.  Verify file source and version
 Turn the K3 off and back on, then re-try the firmware load

Looking at the PORT tab of the K3 Utility and doing a test
communications for Port 5 - which is the port that the Prolific driver
says it's using I get - K3 is running main program, RS232 4800 bps
 If I try port 4 I get  K3 boot loader is ready for MCU firmware
load. RS232 38400 bps.

Because of the two BPS rates above and the different BPS rate for the
Prolific USB driver, should I change my bps in my driver settings or
elsewhere?  Also, I haven't saved any configurations in the K3 Utility
software. Should I, once I get things working?

So it looks like I keep running into the same stumbling block, I feel
like a bit of a thick head that I don't know why this isn't working.
I would appreciate help in getting the firmware installed on the K3.

Thanks,

Rem
K 6 B B Q
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Re: [Elecraft] Dangerous Low Voltage (WAS: Power pole for K3?)

2008-04-19 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hi Ron
I've noticed a lot of us OFs still have the reflex of
putting one hand behind us when the other goes
inside a piece of equipment.
Lot of us learned it the hard way. :-)
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 2:11 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Dangerous Low Voltage (WAS: Power pole for
K3?)


I never use a wrench  which has exposed metal surfaces long enough to
short

a battery, and I always disconnect the negative terminal (- ground
assumed
here) and cap it before working around them.

Al WA6VNN



Disconnecting power before working on the gear to remove/replace parts
is
basic to both low and high voltage supplies.

My one up-close and frightening experience with low-voltage
high-current
supply shorts occurred on an F-86 (Korean war era jet fighter) flight
line
at Lockheed. It was the middle of the night and bitterly cold as I and
another tech worked on two fighters sitting side-by-side. They were
powered
by ground  carts. We had lowered the canopies almost all the way down
to
conserve a little heat in the frigid cockpits as we ran through the
avionics
ground checks.

Suddenly I heard one of the power carts groan under heavy load. It
caused me
to look up and out of the cockpit to see what was going on. The plane
next
to me had smoke billowing from the cockpit, coming out around the
almost-closed canopy. I could see the other tech's head lying against
the
canopy. He was apparently unconscious.

I hit the canopy button and clambered out as it slowly wound open,
yelling
for help, very conscious that these planes were fully-fueled bombs
sitting
wingtip to wingtip waiting for a fire to set them off. We got the guy
out.
He was splattered with burns but the plane wasn't on fire.

Later we learned that he had discovered a defective circuit breaker.
He had
a replacement with him, but decided he didn't want to open the canopy
and
climb down to disconnect the power cart. The circuit breaker connected
to
power by a wire with a lug on the end that attached with a screw into
a
threaded hole in a large copper bus bar. As he was turning the screw,
he
dropped the screwdriver and it fell touching the power bus bar and the
aluminum side of the console. He got a face full molten metal blobs as
the
shaft of the tool literally exploded in his face. He instinctively
stood
bolt upright in the cockpit, smashing his head against the closed
canopy and
knocking himself unconscious.

Lockheed management and the US Air Force were not impressed. They had
a
badly damaged jet fighter with molten metal drooled down the side of
the
console and cockpit and it could have been much, much worse.

I think he found a new line of work.

Even minor short circuits can cause lots of grief. It's very easy to
instantly fry a PC board trace with a temporary short circuit. Those
can
usually be fixed (once you find the break), but it's still a very
unnecessary and easily avoided damage by following simple safety
protocols,
including removing power before touching the circuit to remove parts
or
taking any other short-cuts.

And for those of us who regularly work around equipment with high
voltages -
a few hundred volts and up - allowing ourselves to be lulled into
complacent
behavior by the low voltages in most gear today can be dangerous. One
time I
was troubleshooting a receiver that had something that smelled hot so
I was
gingerly touching resistors to see if one was overheating when I
suddenly
remembered I was working on a tube-type receiver with a 250V supply!

Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] help getting first firmware update onto K3

2008-04-19 Thread Vic K2VCO

Marin QRP wrote:

I am trying to do my first firmware upgrade of the K3 but am
unsuccessful at getting it installed.
I am still getting the message
MCU programming failed.  Verify file source and version
 Turn the K3 off and back on, then re-try the firmware load



Look at the directory that you have downloaded the files from elecraft 
into. You should have at least


DTBL0008.HEX
HDSP0158.HEX
hmcu0178.hex
TBOOT7.HEX

Make sure the K3 utility is set to use this directory.

Check the version of the K3 utility that you are using. Is should be at 
least 1.0.12.7, and the current version is 1.1.2.28.


I am just guessing but the error message sounds as though it is not 
finding the right files.



Because of the two BPS rates above and the different BPS rate for the
Prolific USB driver, should I change my bps in my driver settings or
elsewhere?  Also, I haven't saved any configurations in the K3 Utility
software. Should I, once I get things working?


The K3 utility figures out the correct baud rate, changes it to 38,400 
for the download and then changes it back. So you don't need to do anything.


You can save configurations if you are going to play with menu 
parameters and you want to be able to get back to a known setup.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] two transceivers and one antenna

2008-04-19 Thread w6jd
I've used an MFJ-1702C for a number of years and haven't
fried anything yet. One of the Alpha-Delta SPDT  switches
is somewhat pricer but a higher quality switch.

Doug
W6JD

-- Original message -- 
From: Scott McDowell [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 Hi 
 I need some ones opinion on something I am thinking about doing. 
 I sure hate to have to say, I wish I hadn't done that! 
 I have two transceivers and one multi-band yagis antenna. 
 Switching the coax from one rig to the other gets to be a hassle. 
 I've been thinking about getting a coaxial switch with 
 two outputs and one input. Then connecting one transceiver 
 to one output and the other transceiver to the other output. 
 Then connect the input to the beam. Is there going to be 
 enough seperation in the switch to keep from damaging 
 the transceiver that is turned off and switched out of 
 the circuit? Has anyone done this? 
 Any information appreciated. 
 73 
 Scott 
 N5SM 
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RE: [Elecraft] help getting first firmware update onto K3

2008-04-19 Thread Dick Dievendorff
Looks like COM5 is the right COM port, because of your results with Test
Communications.

You don't need to adjust the K3's RS-232 speed.  The K3 Utility should
discover the speed the K3 is set to (it does this by trying all 4 speeds).
Your results for Test Communications with COM5 are the expected results.
The K3 Utility tried 38,400, 19,200, 9600, and finally succeeded at 4800
bps.

After you've done test communications and see the K3 is running main
program, speed is 4800 bps, move to the firmware tab and click check
versions now.  It should display the firmware levels it finds in the
firmware folder (the available versions) and the firmware levels it finds
in the K3 (the installed in k3 versions).  If the firmware in the K3 is
older than that in the available column, you'll be informed that new
firmware is available.  You should be able to click Send All New and that
should do it.

Dick, K6KR




-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Marin QRP
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 2:24 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] help getting first firmware update onto K3

I am trying to do my first firmware upgrade of the K3 but am
unsuccessful at getting it installed.

I am using the USB to 9 pin rig cable.  I downloaded the Elecraft K3
Utility last night plus I've downloaded the latest drivers from the
Prolific website.  While I was successful getting the Elecraft K3
firmware onto my computer, I am not able to get it onto the K3.  I
have listed some things that may help someone understand where I am
stuck at and help me get the firmware onto my K3.   I apologize for
this being so long, but I'd rather not leave anything important out so
someone can recognize what's missing.

Per the instructions in Elecraft KUSB USB to Serial Adapter looking in
Device Manager and then under Ports, the Prolific USB to Serial Comm
Port is COM 5

The DRIVER Tab for the Prolific USB to Serial Comm Port Properties
says that I have the latest version 2.0.2.8

Under Port Settings of the same Comm Port Properties this is what it says -
Bits per second9600
Data Bits8
ParityNone
Stop Bits1
Flow ControlNone

If I click the ADVANCED Tab in the above, it lets me change the Com
Port #.It is still at 5 right now - the default.

On the K3, going to CONFIG then FW REVS sub menu it says my CURRENT
FIRMWARE installed is 01.69.

When I used the Elecraft K3 Utility to get firmware from the Elecraft
website the first time it downloaded 7 files onto my computer.  Then I
tried it later and it said it copied 1 file from Elecraft.

Also on the K3 Utility it stated, K3 Boot Loader is ready for MCU
Firmware load, RS232 38400 bps I got this message twice in a row.

I am still getting the message
MCU programming failed.  Verify file source and version
 Turn the K3 off and back on, then re-try the firmware load

Looking at the PORT tab of the K3 Utility and doing a test
communications for Port 5 - which is the port that the Prolific driver
says it's using I get - K3 is running main program, RS232 4800 bps
 If I try port 4 I get  K3 boot loader is ready for MCU firmware
load. RS232 38400 bps.

Because of the two BPS rates above and the different BPS rate for the
Prolific USB driver, should I change my bps in my driver settings or
elsewhere?  Also, I haven't saved any configurations in the K3 Utility
software. Should I, once I get things working?

So it looks like I keep running into the same stumbling block, I feel
like a bit of a thick head that I don't know why this isn't working.
I would appreciate help in getting the firmware installed on the K3.

Thanks,

Rem
K 6 B B Q
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Re: [Elecraft] Dangerous Low Voltage (WAS: Power pole for K3?)

2008-04-19 Thread Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604
And not obvious, unless you're seen the results, but removing
conductive jewelry, including your wedding ring, is a highly
desireable.  I have seen a person who totally lost the use of the
appropriate finger because his wife wouldn't let him take it off.

Dual-battery setups require particular care, too.
73, doug

   From: Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2008 14:39:44 -0700

   Hi Ron
   I've noticed a lot of us OFs still have the reflex of
   putting one hand behind us when the other goes
   inside a piece of equipment.
   Lot of us learned it the hard way. :-)
   73, Bob N6WG

   - Original Message - 
   From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
   Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 2:11 PM
   Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Dangerous Low Voltage (WAS: Power pole for
   K3?)


   I never use a wrench  which has exposed metal surfaces long enough to
   short

   a battery, and I always disconnect the negative terminal (- ground
   assumed
   here) and cap it before working around them.

   Al WA6VNN

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[Elecraft] Using a Softrock Lite 6.2 as a K2 Panadapter

2008-04-19 Thread Jack Smith
I've completed a detailed analysis with measured data using a Softrock 
Lite 6.2, K2 IF version as a panadapter.


The details are at a new web page: 
http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/using_softrock_as_a_panadapter_for_the_k2.htm


The measured data shows that the Z1 buffer amplifier is quite 
efficient at handling the Softrock's LO leakage and also that setting 
the Z1 buffer amplifier to provide around net 0 dB gain (1 uV into 
the antenna port at, say 7 MHz, corresponds to 1 uV out of the Z1 IF 
sample port at 4915 KHz) is about right with the Softrock. Some may 
prefer a slight bit more gain, which may be achieved by a different gain 
setting resistor in the Z1. The need  for additional gain may be 
more important for VHF/UHF work, or quiet band conditions. In my tests 
with  both lab  gear and listening on 40 meters, I did not find 
additional gain necessary.


Jack K8ZOA
www.cliftonlaboratories.com

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[Elecraft] NK8Q on AT with KX1 Now! 7:51pm

2008-04-19 Thread Edward R. Breneiser
Hello all,

Grab Mark, NK8Q on 10.106mhz. He's on the Appalachian Trail in PA.

72,
Ed , WA3WSJ

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[Elecraft] Mark...NK8Q on 10106.2 now with KX-1 on AT in PA.

2008-04-19 Thread John
He was solid 569 here in AL, near the Gulf.

73 John K4NP
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FW: [Elecraft] Mark...NK8Q on 10106.2 now with KX-1 on AT in PA.

2008-04-19 Thread DeniseWerner
No copy in Michigan. Thought my antenna was gone but then I worked PR7AR
just up freq fairly solid.
I copied Ron 589.
Must be on the wrong side of the mountain.

Werner N8BB

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 8:10 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Mark...NK8Q on 10106.2 now with KX-1 on AT in PA.


He was solid 569 here in AL, near the Gulf.

73 John K4NP
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-- 
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.2/1386 - Release Date: 4/18/2008
5:24 PM


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[Elecraft] Tomorrow night is RFTB !!!

2008-04-19 Thread Larry Makoski W2LJ
Tomorrow night is Run For The Bacon night.  The monthly QRP Sprint sponsored 
by the Flying Pigs QRP Club International.

For full details, please visit http://www.gentzow.com/fpqrp/fpqrprun.php

73 de Larry W2LJ
FP #612

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RE: [Elecraft] Dangerous Low Voltage (WAS: Power pole for K3?)

2008-04-19 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Yep. I still do that too!

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Robert Tellefsen [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 2:40 PM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dangerous Low Voltage (WAS: Power pole for K3?)


Hi Ron
I've noticed a lot of us OFs still have the reflex of
putting one hand behind us when the other goes
inside a piece of equipment.
Lot of us learned it the hard way. :-)
73, Bob N6WG

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[Elecraft] Firmware installed - thank you

2008-04-19 Thread Marin QRP
Thanks to everyone who contacted me about my inability to get the K3
to take the firmware revision from my computer hard drive.

I didn't have any aha moments as to what made the thing work later,
it could have been a matter of having the wrong thing turned on
or hooked up first or maybe that I decided to save again the place
where I want the downloaded files kept and retrieved from.  The K3
Utility already specified the same place I resaved it to tonight, but
after that things changed as I got a pop up box listing the contents
of the
different upgrades.

I went from firmware version 01.69 to 01.78.

Thank you again for all of your help.

Rem
K 6 B B Q
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