date:20080513

I also like the term DSP Tracking Filter very much and wish it had been 
used initially instead of Roofing Filter so the K3 IF filtering 
technique would not have been confused with those receivers using a VHF 
first IF.


73,
Don W3FPR

Larry Phipps wrote:


Wayne, as you know from my private correspondence, I think the 
variable filters are the best way to go on this, as there are just not 
enough slots to get to an adequate level of protection for anyone who 
uses a lot of modes. Another example of thinking outside the box. I 
LOVE the use of the term tracking filter, BTW. You should use that 
term in all future references to the new filters. Any idea when they 
might be available?


73,
Larry N8LP



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Re: [Elecraft] Re: AGC Design of the K3

2008-05-13 Thread dj7mgq


Hi,

I am very curious about the variable filters, a concept which has been  
proved in the K2. However I also wonder if the non-linearity of the  
diodes (and on top of that the crystals) will not cause more problems  
in the K3 environment than they solve. In many modern receiver  
concepts with very strong front ends, the crystals in the filters have  
become the limiting factor.


I wonder if the 8 steps, which Wayne mentioned, mean that diodes will  
not be used but switched Cs...


It will be very, very interesting to see what Elecraft comes up with.  
If the IMD behavior is equal to that of the current filters, this will  
be really cool.


Fingers crossed, vy 73 de toby



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 BETA FIRMWARE RELEASE -- MCU rev 1.94

2008-05-13 Thread Paul Christensen

I'm not sure if this has been mentioned before, but after a F/W upgrade, I 
found that I need power down the K3, then re-press the power button. 
Otherwise, some anomalies exist, including elevated headphone hiss and 
slight clicks in the monitor when sending CW.I've now noticed this on at 
least the last two F/W upgrades.  Re-booting the power immediately after the 
flash has cleared the issue every time.


Paul, W9AC 


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[Elecraft] K3 BETA FIRMWARE RELEASE -- MCU rev 1.9

2008-05-13 Thread Raymond METZGER

Hi Elecrafters,

I have always loaded FW releases from the normal http:// Elecraft server.
To load the latest beta version, we are instructed to access an FTP server
(URL = ftp://ftp.elecraft...)
My Internet Explorer config does not allow me to access the FTP site.
What should I do ?

Thanks and 73
de Raymond, F4FNT

K3/100 # 615, K2/100 # 5,636 



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 BETA FIRMWARE RELEASE -- MCU rev 1.9

2008-05-13 Thread Dave Martin

My IE version 6 works fine, Raymond, but sometimes it takes a minute
for their FTP server to respond.  I thought that all recent IE
versions included FTP capability.  But I use Firefox.  I've found that
it's less annoying overall than IE.  If nothing else works, maybe you
could download Firefox and try it.  Or there's a number of free FTP
clients available on the web.

Dave  W5DHM

On 5/13/08, Raymond METZGER [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hi Elecrafters,

  I have always loaded FW releases from the normal http:// Elecraft server.
  To load the latest beta version, we are instructed to access an FTP server
  (URL = ftp://ftp.elecraft...)
  My Internet Explorer config does not allow me to access the FTP site.
  What should I do ?
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: new to wish-list - KEY OUT setting in menu (to be more like PTT OUT) for CW PTT mode


Lexa,

You have my full support on this item, in fact I have 'lobbied' in the 
past for having KEY OUT become active when PTT IN is asserted - but 
*only* in CW non-QSK state.  That should not require any additional menu 
items, only a change in behavior.


73,
Don W3FPR

Alexandr Kobranov wrote:


So wish is like that:

- possibility to set KEY OUT as real PTT OUT in CW when K3 is in PTT mode

it means no activity on KEY OUT without PTT IN or XMIT active (when K3 
is in PTT mode)


This wish is only about CW  PTT mode, in any VOX/QSK or SSB PTT it 
can be as it is.


Please comment this, please add your opinion and support for this 
request to make Elecraft sure that this is real wish. (maybe not :-()


Simply looking for supporters :-)

This was posted also on
http://www.zerobeat.net/smf/index.php/board,25.0.html


Thanks,
73!
Lexa, ok1dst
K3/10 #727
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.23.16/1428 - Release Date: 5/12/2008 7:44 AM
  

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[Elecraft] K3 Antenna 1/2 Operation

2008-05-13 Thread Craig D. Smith

This is a question and perhaps a request about the operation of the antenna
1/2 selection in conjunction with the KAT3 internal K3 antenna tuner.  

In my normal contest setup here I use two antennas on the same band.  One is
resonant so I don't need the ATU.  The other is a multi-band doublet that I
use the KAT3 to tune.  The beauty of this is that I can quickly switch from
one to the other with the K3 front panel ANT switch to select the one with
the stronger signal.  The problem is that the state of the ATU (bypass or
engaged) has to be reset each time I switch antennas.  This is an extra step
and one that can easily be forgotten in a contest situation.  Am I
overlooking something here?  That is, is there a way to set up the K3 so
that it remembers if the ATU is engaged or bypassed on a given antenna?
This would be a MUCH preferred mode of operation.  It has been awhile since
I've had my K2, but my recollection (which may be wrong) is that the K2 did
provide exactly this desired operation.  

Question:  Can I set up the K3 to do this?

If not, Request:  Can this be provided in a future firmware update?


Thanks and 73
... Craig   AC0DS 




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 BETA FIRMWARE RELEASE -- MCU rev 1.9

2008-05-13 Thread dj7mgq


Hallo,


My Internet Explorer config does not allow me to access the FTP site.
What should I do ?


There are many FTP clients available. If for some reason the poor  
implementatioon of the Internet Exploder is causing problems, just use  
another client.


On most Windows machines you should be able to do something like this:

Open a CLI Window (cmd) then

ftp ftp.elecraft.com
user: anonymous
passw: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
cd /K3/firmware/beta
bin
ls

use get to download the files you want.

I've not actually done this but in principle it should work.

vy 73 de toby


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 BETA FIRMWARE RELEASE -- MCU rev 1.9


Raymond,

I believe you should have several choices:  Change your IE 
configuration; or download another browser such as Mozilla Firefox; or 
use an FTP application to copy the files to a local folder on your 
computer and point K3 Utility to that folder.  I am certain these are 
only 3 of the workable solutions, there are many, many other ways to do it.


73,
Don W3FPR

Raymond METZGER wrote:

Hi Elecrafters,

I have always loaded FW releases from the normal http:// Elecraft server.
To load the latest beta version, we are instructed to access an FTP server
(URL = ftp://ftp.elecraft...)
My Internet Explorer config does not allow me to access the FTP site.
What should I do ?
  


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Re: [Elecraft] Buddipole vs. tuner and wire

2008-05-13 Thread David Yarnes


Brian and All,

Wire and a tuner is always good, particularly if you can get it up high 
enough.  And, it's cheaper  But I think a Buddipole could be a good 
choice unless you know in advance how you would be able to raise a wire 
antenna adequately to get good results.  I have a Buddipole system, and like 
it very much for many portable situations.  But I will tell you that more 
often than not I use mine as a vertical (like the Buddistick).  I almost 
always get better results using the system vertically, primarily because 
it's hard to get a Buddipole up high enough to really be effective.  Of 
course, it would be nice if you could raise the system up somewhat even if 
you do use it vertically.


The other advantage to wire and a tuner is that you can use it multiband 
more easily, assuming you also use balanced feedline.  With a Buddipole (or 
Buddistick) you have to keep changing the coil settings to change bands. 
That might be a hassle.  And if you do opt for the Buddistick idea, don't 
hesitate to use an extra rod or two under the coil, and a longer top section 
too.  And use more radials than they suggest if you can.  Any or all of 
these will give you better results usually.


I just got my June QST yesterday, and Rick Littlefield (a well known QRPer) 
has an article on a multiband wire antenna that is off center fed.  And it 
uses coax.  But to do so, you have to pass on the WARC bands--those bands 
always present a matching problem for coax fed multiband antennas.  The G5RV 
is a case in point.  There's a little work involved in constructing Rick's 
antenna, but once you do it, it looks like it would be fairly easy to 
transport.  I've never used an OCF antenna, but there are lots of good 
reasons to do so.


Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: Brian Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 9:57 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Buddipole vs. tuner and wire


I am heading out on a bit of a DXpedition in a month and will be  dragging 
the K2 along with me. I will be in St. Kitts (V4) and  Dominica (J7).


Thinking about antennas, I was planning to take my SGC-231 tuner and  some 
wire but am also looking at the Buddipole (which Elecraft sells  so that 
makes it on-topic here :-) as an alternative.


Would anyone care to comment on wire/tuner vs. Buddipole?

--

73 de Brian, WB6RQN
Brian Lloyd - brian HYPHEN wb6rqn AT lloyd DOT com



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[Elecraft] Beta Firmware 1.92 and Other Stuff

2008-05-13 Thread Tom Childers, N5GE


Congratulations to the software folks at Elecraft!  I haven't tried the rest of
it yet, but will as time allows.

The VOX operation is vastly improved.

On another note.  I really like the CW TX while in SSB.  You hit the nail right
on the head regarding it's use on weak signal work.  Now I can answer those that
say, Who's that sending CW here on the calling frequency? ;o)

Keep up the good work!

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

Those who would give up 
Essential Liberty to 
purchase a little Temporary 
Safety deserve neither 
Liberty nor Safety 

An excerpt from a letter 
written in 1755 from the 
Assembly to the Governor 
of Pennsylvania.

Support the entire Constitution, not 
just the parts you like.

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] Buddipole vs. tuner and wire

Hi Brian
It really depends on what you can find for
antenna supports.  A wire dipole cut to frequency
and up in the air higher than you are likely to
raise a Buddipole will do more for you.  The
Buddipole makes a nice fallback antenna, but
I'd try for an elevated wire antenna where possible.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Brian Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 9:57 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Buddipole vs. tuner and wire


 I am heading out on a bit of a DXpedition in a month and will be
 dragging the K2 along with me. I will be in St. Kitts (V4) and
 Dominica (J7).

 Thinking about antennas, I was planning to take my SGC-231 tuner and
 some wire but am also looking at the Buddipole (which Elecraft sells
 so that makes it on-topic here :-) as an alternative.

 Would anyone care to comment on wire/tuner vs. Buddipole?

 --

 73 de Brian, WB6RQN
 Brian Lloyd - brian HYPHEN wb6rqn AT lloyd DOT com



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[Elecraft] ERR TXG and power problems

2008-05-13 Thread Paul Ferguson

I have K3/100 #757 using firmware 1.94 MCU and 1.73 DSP. 

I have been getting an ERR TXG message when trying the Transmitter Gain Low-
Power Calibration on most bands. 80 meters was OK and 20 meters sometimes was 
OK.

I noticed my external power meter was showing 10 watts output while the K3 
power read only 2 watts. This caused me to go back to the K3 Low-Power 
Wattmeter Calibration procedure. In this procedure I was only able to adjust 
the power shown on my external meter to about 9 watts when the K3 showed 5 
watts. The WMTR LP parameter value shown in the VFO A slot ended up at its 
maximum value of 180. 

I redid the LP Transmitter Gain Calibration on all bands without any ERR TXG 
messages. So far so good except for my K3 saying 5 watts out and my meter 
saying 9 watts.

Next I try the High Power TX Gain Calibration. I get ERR TXG messages, so I 
take a look at my external power meter as I increase power. As the K3 changes 
from 12 to 13 watts, I hear the KPA3 relay click, and my external power meter 
shows power suddenly jumps from about 15 watts to 40 watts. Increasing K3 power 
more gets me 100 watts out while the K3 is showing only 20 watts. I then try 
the High Power Wattmeter Calibration. K3 is set to 50 watts. My external meter 
shows 120 watts, but adjusting the menu parameter does not reduce power.

I am using two different external power meters. One is a QRP meter and goes to 
10 watts max. The other has a 200-watt scale. They both have seemed fairly 
accurate from using them with other rigs.

Any ideas on how to fix this problem?


73,
Paul 
K5ESW


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[Elecraft] Dayton Specials?

2008-05-13 Thread Julius Fazekas


Are there any even more pleasant surprises in store at
Dayton this year?

73,
Julius

Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #3311
Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Antenna 1/2 Operation

Craig
On the antenna port where you would like
the ATU to be in BYPASS mode, instead load
that port into a 50 ohm load and run the ATU.
The other port can then match whatever antenna
you throw at it, but when you switch back to
the bypass port, you won't have to remember to
fuss with the ATU.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Craig D. Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 6:22 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Antenna 1/2 Operation


This is a question and perhaps a request about the operation of the
antenna
1/2 selection in conjunction with the KAT3 internal K3 antenna tuner.

In my normal contest setup here I use two antennas on the same band.
One is
resonant so I don't need the ATU.  The other is a multi-band doublet
that I
use the KAT3 to tune.  The beauty of this is that I can quickly switch
from
one to the other with the K3 front panel ANT switch to select the one
with
the stronger signal.  The problem is that the state of the ATU (bypass
or
engaged) has to be reset each time I switch antennas.  This is an
extra step
and one that can easily be forgotten in a contest situation.  Am I
overlooking something here?  That is, is there a way to set up the K3
so
that it remembers if the ATU is engaged or bypassed on a given
antenna?
This would be a MUCH preferred mode of operation.  It has been awhile
since
I've had my K2, but my recollection (which may be wrong) is that the
K2 did
provide exactly this desired operation.

Question:  Can I set up the K3 to do this?

If not, Request:  Can this be provided in a future firmware update?


Thanks and 73
... Craig   AC0DS




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RE: [Elecraft] K3: VFO CRS Coarse Tuning Rate

2008-05-13 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


 They are different for different modes:
 
 SSB1.0   2.5   5.0
 CW 0.5   1.0
 Data   0.1   1.0
 AM 5.0  10.0
 FM UNK

FM   5.0

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ken K3IU
 Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 12:01 PM
 To: Joe Word
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: VFO CRS Coarse Tuning Rate
 
 
 They are different for different modes:
 
 SSB1.02.5   5.0
 CW  0.5   1.0
 Data  0.1   1.0
 AM  5.0 10.0
 FM UNK
 
 73,
 Ken K3IU
 K3 #202
 
 Joe Word wrote:
  Can someone look at Menu VFO CRS (Coarse Tuning Rate) and 
 tell me what
  the choises are, I think they are 20, 10, 5, 1.
 
  The manual does not define, I am at work and can not get to my K3.
 
  Thanks,
 
  Joe N9VX
 
  K3 S/N 841
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 Date: 5/12/2008 7:44 AM
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Buddipole vs. tuner and wire


Brian,

Also remember that one cannot defeat the laws of physics.
A Buddypole is nothing but a piece of radiating 'wire' (OK, so it is a 
tube or whip, little difference) that is tuned by the inductor.  A piece 
of wire the same length as the Buddypole attached to a tuner should 
perform about the same. (you will still need the radials connected to 
the tuner 'ground').


The longer the wire, and the higher the wire, the better the radiation 
will be.


If you are looking for convenience, then the Buddypole or something 
similar is a good choice, but if you are striving for efficiency, a 
longer wire with a tuner or a dipole will be better.


73,
Don W3FPR

Robert Tellefsen wrote:

Hi Brian
It really depends on what you can find for
antenna supports.  A wire dipole cut to frequency
and up in the air higher than you are likely to
raise a Buddipole will do more for you.  The
Buddipole makes a nice fallback antenna, but
I'd try for an elevated wire antenna where possible.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Brian Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 9:57 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Buddipole vs. tuner and wire


  

I am heading out on a bit of a DXpedition in a month and will be
dragging the K2 along with me. I will be in St. Kitts (V4) and
Dominica (J7).

Thinking about antennas, I was planning to take my SGC-231 tuner and
some wire but am also looking at the Buddipole (which Elecraft sells
so that makes it on-topic here :-) as an alternative.

Would anyone care to comment on wire/tuner vs. Buddipole?

--

73 de Brian, WB6RQN
Brian Lloyd - brian HYPHEN wb6rqn AT lloyd DOT com




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Re: [Elecraft] Buddipole vs. tuner and wire

2008-05-13 Thread Matt Patterson

Brian,

Have you considered something like the YO-YO tenna?
www.hamradiofun.com/yoyodeluxe.html

They are very nice and compact dipole antenna and can be made to
resonant length by only spooling out the correct amount of wire that you
need for the particular band you want to work.  Hoist it up in a coconut
tree as high as you can get it and I think you'd be better off then with
the buddipole at ground level.

73 Matt
w5LL
On Tue, 2008-05-13 at 07:53 -0700, Robert Tellefsen wrote:
 Hi Brian
 It really depends on what you can find for
 antenna supports.  A wire dipole cut to frequency
 and up in the air higher than you are likely to
 raise a Buddipole will do more for you.  The
 Buddipole makes a nice fallback antenna, but
 I'd try for an elevated wire antenna where possible.
 73, Bob N6WG
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Brian Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 9:57 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Buddipole vs. tuner and wire
 
 
  I am heading out on a bit of a DXpedition in a month and will be
  dragging the K2 along with me. I will be in St. Kitts (V4) and
  Dominica (J7).
 
  Thinking about antennas, I was planning to take my SGC-231 tuner and
  some wire but am also looking at the Buddipole (which Elecraft sells
  so that makes it on-topic here :-) as an alternative.
 
  Would anyone care to comment on wire/tuner vs. Buddipole?
 
  --
 
  73 de Brian, WB6RQN
  Brian Lloyd - brian HYPHEN wb6rqn AT lloyd DOT com
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 BETA FIRMWARE RELEASE -- MCU rev 1.94

2008-05-13 Thread Bob Cunnings

Well, I have, and found that the lower the threshold, the less stable.
Using the beta version, with THR = 2 excursions of 20 Hz between
auto-spot invocations are not uncommon - yet on the same signal (S5 or
so) the 1.78 version performs very well. The side by side comparison
with two rigs using the same signal is telling. I'll play with it a
bit more this evening.

Bob NW8L

On Tue, May 13, 2008 at 8:56 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Bob,

 Try setting the threshold to 2 or 3 (CWT Hold).  With a fixed
 threshold, it seems very close to the previous performance on
 all but the strongest signals (and even the old FW was a bit
 touchy with S9+20 signals).

 73,

   ... Joe, W4TV



 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Cunnings
 Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 10:53 PM
 To: wayne burdick
 Cc: Elecraft Reflector
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 BETA FIRMWARE RELEASE -- MCU rev 1.94


 Unfortunately I see little improvement in the CW auto-spot feature,
 broken in the last release. It is still much less accurate than the
 original algorithm, and less consistent in it's behavior.

 Try this - tune in a good steady (S6 or S7) cw signal. Set tuning to
 FINE, enable CWT and then press SPOT repeatedly, observing the
 frequency display. The beta version (like 1.88) settles on a
 considerably different frequency almost every time - moving 5 Hz or
 more commonly, and sometimes as much as 20 Hz or more. There is a
 tendency to tune low. The original version, on the other hand, rarely
 moves more than 1 or 2 Hz with each auto-spot invocation, bearing out
 the fact that it is more accurate in general, or less likely to get
 confused (by noise, varying morse code speed etc.).

 Since I have two K3 units here, I set one up with 1.78/1.58 and the
 other with the beta firmware, and then compared their auto-spot
 behavior side by side on the same received signal using an antenna
 switch. The difference is quite pronounced. Here are some series of
 freqs (last three digits) resulting from 10 successive invocations of
 auto-spot on the same steady S7 signal on 40 meters (at 13 wpm or so,
 fortunately a long winded transmission):

 v178/158 (TEXT DEC threshold = AUTO)
 125, 125, 125, 129, 130, 130, 127, 128, 129, 129

 beta (TEXT DEC threshold = AUTO)
 115, 118, 124, 079 (!), 106, 106, 124, 107, 112, 100

 beta (TEXT DEC threshold = 5)
 124, 123, 109, 116, 118, 122, 117, 116, 120, 123

 The newer firmware version tends to bounce around more with a
 tendency to tune low, often requiring multiple invocations of
 auto-spot to hit the right pitch, whereas the original algorithm
 generally tunes right the first time. With threshold set to 5 in the
 beta version auto-spot is a bit better, but all too often it takes
 multiple tries to hit the right pitch, as it still tends low. If I set
 the threshold much higher, it doesn't want to tune at all for signals
 that the original algorithm handled easily.

 I'm not sure what the improvements to auto-spot introduced in 1.88
 were supposed to do, but IMO the feature is still negatively affected
 by the attempt. A side by side comparison of the two versions, on the
 same signal, is very revealing in this case  -  can someone else try
 this?

 Too bad, since I use the feature a lot it's back to 1.78/1.58 for now.
 It just works.

 Bob NW8L



 On Mon, May 12, 2008 at 7:08 PM, wayne burdick
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Thanks to your input on the last firmware release (1.88),
 we've made a
  number of important improvements.
 
  For the first time, we're posting new firmware as beta.
 Upgrading is
  optional: if you want to minimize your risk, you might want
 to wait until
  we've blessed it as a normal production firmware release.
 (Or until all your
  friends have it and you're a little jealous.)
 
  We'd love to have as many thrill-seekers as possible take
 the plunge and
  load the new firmware now. We think it's greatly improved,
 and it will
  certainly clear up many of the issues noted over the past
 week. Even though
  we're headed to Dayton in a couple of days, we'll be
 monitoring closely for
  any additional issues.
 
  For release notes and instructions on how to load beta
 firmware, please see:
 
   http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_software.htm
 
  The instructions (linked from within the release notes)
 explain how to
  create a separate folder for the beta revision. This will
 allow you to
  easily revert to an older revision if you find it
 necessary. Hopefully not!
 
  For your convenience I've also provide the release notes below.
 
  73,
  Wayne
  N6KR
 
  * * *
 
  MCU 1.94 / DSP 1.73, 5-12-08
 
   * VOX: Increased sensitivity. Typical VOX GN settings now ~30-50.
 
   * VOICE MONITOR: Eliminated scratchy artifacts with
 compression set to
  high levels.
 
   * FM DEVIATION ADJUSTABLE:  Use CONFIG:FM DEV menu entry
 (default: 5.0
  kHz).
 
   * Flash memory driver improved to prevent occasional
 receive dropouts, ERR

[Elecraft] K3: High-Power TX Gain Calibration - No Output

2008-05-13 Thread Joe Word

I am having problems with the 50 watt TX Gain Calibration, it shows 0
watts and gives the error ERR TXG. The Low-Power 5 watt test
worked fine and have low power output.

Anyone had and resolved this problem?

Running FW 1.88

Thanks,

Joe  N9VX

K3 #841
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Re: [Elecraft] Buddipole vs. tuner and wire

2008-05-13 Thread Brian Lloyd

Wow! Thanks for all the input. FWIW, I already own the SGC-231 tuner  
so it and wire cost me nothing. I would have to buy the Buddipole so  
it would have to be significantly easier/better to use to make it  
worth spending $400 on.


Again, thanks for all the input. I appreciate it.

Brian Lloyd
Granite Bay Montessori School  9330 Sierra College Bl
brian AT gbmontessori DOT com  Roseville, CA 95661
+1.916.367.2131 (voice)+1.791.912.8170 (fax)

PGP key ID:  12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0  CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C




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RE: [Elecraft] K3 BETA FIRMWARE RELEASE -- MCU rev 1.94

2008-05-13 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


Bob, 

Try setting the threshold to 2 or 3 (CWT Hold).  With a fixed 
threshold, it seems very close to the previous performance on 
all but the strongest signals (and even the old FW was a bit 
touchy with S9+20 signals). 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Cunnings
 Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 10:53 PM
 To: wayne burdick
 Cc: Elecraft Reflector
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 BETA FIRMWARE RELEASE -- MCU rev 1.94
 
 
 Unfortunately I see little improvement in the CW auto-spot feature,
 broken in the last release. It is still much less accurate than the
 original algorithm, and less consistent in it's behavior.
 
 Try this - tune in a good steady (S6 or S7) cw signal. Set tuning to
 FINE, enable CWT and then press SPOT repeatedly, observing the
 frequency display. The beta version (like 1.88) settles on a
 considerably different frequency almost every time - moving 5 Hz or
 more commonly, and sometimes as much as 20 Hz or more. There is a
 tendency to tune low. The original version, on the other hand, rarely
 moves more than 1 or 2 Hz with each auto-spot invocation, bearing out
 the fact that it is more accurate in general, or less likely to get
 confused (by noise, varying morse code speed etc.).
 
 Since I have two K3 units here, I set one up with 1.78/1.58 and the
 other with the beta firmware, and then compared their auto-spot
 behavior side by side on the same received signal using an antenna
 switch. The difference is quite pronounced. Here are some series of
 freqs (last three digits) resulting from 10 successive invocations of
 auto-spot on the same steady S7 signal on 40 meters (at 13 wpm or so,
 fortunately a long winded transmission):
 
 v178/158 (TEXT DEC threshold = AUTO)
 125, 125, 125, 129, 130, 130, 127, 128, 129, 129
 
 beta (TEXT DEC threshold = AUTO)
 115, 118, 124, 079 (!), 106, 106, 124, 107, 112, 100
 
 beta (TEXT DEC threshold = 5)
 124, 123, 109, 116, 118, 122, 117, 116, 120, 123
 
 The newer firmware version tends to bounce around more with a
 tendency to tune low, often requiring multiple invocations of
 auto-spot to hit the right pitch, whereas the original algorithm
 generally tunes right the first time. With threshold set to 5 in the
 beta version auto-spot is a bit better, but all too often it takes
 multiple tries to hit the right pitch, as it still tends low. If I set
 the threshold much higher, it doesn't want to tune at all for signals
 that the original algorithm handled easily.
 
 I'm not sure what the improvements to auto-spot introduced in 1.88
 were supposed to do, but IMO the feature is still negatively affected
 by the attempt. A side by side comparison of the two versions, on the
 same signal, is very revealing in this case  -  can someone else try
 this?
 
 Too bad, since I use the feature a lot it's back to 1.78/1.58 for now.
 It just works.
 
 Bob NW8L
 
 
 
 On Mon, May 12, 2008 at 7:08 PM, wayne burdick 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Thanks to your input on the last firmware release (1.88), 
 we've made a
  number of important improvements.
 
  For the first time, we're posting new firmware as beta. 
 Upgrading is
  optional: if you want to minimize your risk, you might want 
 to wait until
  we've blessed it as a normal production firmware release. 
 (Or until all your
  friends have it and you're a little jealous.)
 
  We'd love to have as many thrill-seekers as possible take 
 the plunge and
  load the new firmware now. We think it's greatly improved, 
 and it will
  certainly clear up many of the issues noted over the past 
 week. Even though
  we're headed to Dayton in a couple of days, we'll be 
 monitoring closely for
  any additional issues.
 
  For release notes and instructions on how to load beta 
 firmware, please see:
 
   http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_software.htm
 
  The instructions (linked from within the release notes) 
 explain how to
  create a separate folder for the beta revision. This will 
 allow you to
  easily revert to an older revision if you find it 
 necessary. Hopefully not!
 
  For your convenience I've also provide the release notes below.
 
  73,
  Wayne
  N6KR
 
  * * *
 
  MCU 1.94 / DSP 1.73, 5-12-08
 
   * VOX: Increased sensitivity. Typical VOX GN settings now ~30-50.
 
   * VOICE MONITOR: Eliminated scratchy artifacts with 
 compression set to
  high levels.
 
   * FM DEVIATION ADJUSTABLE:  Use CONFIG:FM DEV menu entry 
 (default: 5.0
  kHz).
 
   * Flash memory driver improved to prevent occasional 
 receive dropouts, ERR
  PL1, and
 FPF LOAD PENDING messages.
 
   * XMIT SWITCH IN MENU: Tapping XMIT while in menu 
 correctly starts/ends
  transmit.
 
   * PASSBAND SHIFT BELOW 0.00 CORRECTED: The SHIFT control 
 no longer allows
 continued rotation below 0.00. (This was occurring only 
 with sidetone
  pitch  500 Hz.)
 
   * SQUELCH/RF GAIN CONTROL CHANGES: By default, the RF/SQL 
 concentric pots
 control main and

Re: [Elecraft] K3 Antenna 1/2 Operation

2008-05-13 Thread Vic K2VCO


Craig D. Smith wrote:


In my normal contest setup here I use two antennas on the same band.  One is
resonant so I don't need the ATU.  The other is a multi-band doublet that I
use the KAT3 to tune.  The beauty of this is that I can quickly switch from
one to the other with the K3 front panel ANT switch to select the one with
the stronger signal.  The problem is that the state of the ATU (bypass or
engaged) has to be reset each time I switch antennas.


The ATU settings are per-antenna (and of course per-band). Just tune the 
ATU for each antenna and you will be fine.


Note that even when the ATU is set to BYPASS there are still some tuner 
components in the circuit, to compensate for stray reactance of the 
board traces, etc. BYPASS really means matched for a 50 ohm resistive 
load.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] Bal[un] (was: Buddipole vs. tuner and wire)

2008-05-13 Thread Brian Lloyd

OK, I am convinced - keep the tuner and the wire. So, that brings up a  
second question: balanced vs. unbalanced.


Wire antennas that do not require a counterpoise are usually loops or  
dipoles, i.e. inherently balanced even if not resonant. Most tuners  
offer an unbalanced output. SGC says, just connect up the antenna.  
Seems to me that a balun would improve things and keep RF off the coax  
and power leads to the tuner. But how well do baluns handle huge  
mismatch?


Just off the top of my head, it seems to me that the tuner at the top  
of a pole with two legs sloped down, i.e. inverted-V, would make a  
pretty good omni all-band antenna.


More thinking aloud.

Brian Lloyd
Granite Bay Montessori School  9330 Sierra College Bl
brian AT gbmontessori DOT com  Roseville, CA 95661
+1.916.367.2131 (voice)+1.791.912.8170 (fax)

PGP key ID:  12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0  CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C




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Re: [Elecraft] K3: High-Power TX Gain Calibration - No Output

Have you initialized the PA in the menu and turned the rig off and on 
a couple of times?



Dave Wilburn
K4DGW
K2/100 - S/N 5982
K3/100 - S/N 766

For those who fought for it, freedom has a flavor the protected will 
never know.



Joe Word wrote:

I am having problems with the 50 watt TX Gain Calibration, it shows 0
watts and gives the error ERR TXG. The Low-Power 5 watt test
worked fine and have low power output.

Anyone had and resolved this problem?

Running FW 1.88

Thanks,

Joe  N9VX

K3 #841
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[Elecraft] K3 - beta firmware release notes - print

2008-05-13 Thread N2TK

From the K3 utility I can go to HelpK3 Firmware Release notes and see the
release notes. But I can't print them. I get nothing when I right-click a
mouse. Is this normal?
I could not just click on  the ftp info from the  beta test firmware
instructions. I had to cut and paste the ftp info to the URL line and it
worked fine.
Tnx
N2TK, Tony 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Antenna 1/2 Operation

2008-05-13 Thread Windy Dankoff KM5Q


I have the same concern as Craig. The recommendation from Robert and Vic
don't work on my K3. 

Here's my scheme:
Ant. 1 is a non-resonant dipole. On 20m for example, SWR is 4.5:1. The ATU
brings it to 1:1.
Ant. 2 is a screwdriver vertical on tin roof, adjusted (with ATU bypassed)
to show 1:1.

I set the ATU for for either antenna, or one then the other, but it NEVER
auto-adjusts when I switch antennas. Never on any band or with any
(mis)tuning of my vertical, have I heard more than one relay click  when
switching ANT 1/2 (no ATU reset).

I'm running the new Beta FW now (no problem) and it's my third FW version.

Windy KM5Q
K3 #764
Santa Fe, NM
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/K3-Antenna-1-2-Operation-tp17208306p17212835.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] Bal[un]


Brian,

For portable operation at low power, you will typically not experience 
any ill effects from connecting the antenna directly to the tuner.  But 
a switchable 1:1/4:1 current balun (like the Elecraft BL2) can be used 
to effectively increase the range of the tuner - try both positions and 
see which one tunes more easily.


You might just want to have a balun in your portable kit just in case.

73,
Don W3FPR

Brian Lloyd wrote:
OK, I am convinced - keep the tuner and the wire. So, that brings up a 
second question: balanced vs. unbalanced.


Wire antennas that do not require a counterpoise are usually loops or 
dipoles, i.e. inherently balanced even if not resonant. Most tuners 
offer an unbalanced output. SGC says, just connect up the antenna. 
Seems to me that a balun would improve things and keep RF off the coax 
and power leads to the tuner. But how well do baluns handle huge 
mismatch?


Just off the top of my head, it seems to me that the tuner at the top 
of a pole with two legs sloped down, i.e. inverted-V, would make a 
pretty good omni all-band antenna.


More thinking aloud.

Brian Lloyd


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[Elecraft] Fwd: K3: High-Power TX Gain Calibration - No Output

2008-05-13 Thread Joe Word

Dave, PA is set to nor and have turned off/on multiple times.
Just checked the Circuit Breaker, it's making contact.

Joe

Dave wrote..
Have you initialized the PA in the menu and turned the rig off and on
a couple of times?


Dave Wilburn


-

-- Forwarded message --
From: Joe Word [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: May 13, 2008 11:28 AM
Subject: K3: High-Power TX Gain Calibration - No Output
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net


I am having problems with the 50 watt TX Gain Calibration, it shows 0
watts and gives the error ERR TXG. The Low-Power 5 watt test
worked fine and have low power output.

Anyone had and resolved this problem?

Running FW 1.88

Thanks,

Joe  N9VX

K3 #841
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Re: [Elecraft] Buddipole vs. tuner and wire

I borrowed a friends buddipole setup for a trip to Valdosta, GA with 
my K2/100.  It had an 8' mast.  My understanding is it perfoms 
significantly better with the 16' mast.  It did ok for what I was 
doing.  I had a 20m dipole strung low, and the buddipole did better 
than that.  The biggest plus for the buddipole is that it can be setup 
in many different configurations and you know what you have.


If on the other hand, you know you will be able to string something 
20' up in a tree and run with that, it is a different matter.


I did not play with the buddipole in the vertical configuration, but 
now wish I had.  I can't find the article, but the author twisted a 
coil in a wire, I think about 20' high, tied a coupe of guys and 3 
radials and worked stations all weekend while camping in the rv.



Dave Wilburn
K4DGW
K2/100 - S/N 5982
K3/100 - S/N 766

For those who fought for it, freedom has a flavor the protected will 
never know.



Brian Lloyd wrote:
I am heading out on a bit of a DXpedition in a month and will be 
dragging the K2 along with me. I will be in St. Kitts (V4) and Dominica 
(J7).


Thinking about antennas, I was planning to take my SGC-231 tuner and 
some wire but am also looking at the Buddipole (which Elecraft sells so 
that makes it on-topic here :-) as an alternative.


Would anyone care to comment on wire/tuner vs. Buddipole?

--

73 de Brian, WB6RQN
Brian Lloyd - brian HYPHEN wb6rqn AT lloyd DOT com



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Re: [Elecraft] Bal[un] (was: Buddipole vs. tuner and wire)

Hi Brian
I don't recall if you mentioned what power level you
would be using with your K2.  If it is running barefoot,
without the 100w PA, you could use one of the Elecraft
switchable baluns.  They switch between 1:1 and 4:1
ratios, giving you a good chance to match most balanced
feeds.

Even though the rig end of the line may be reactive, due
to impedance mismatches along the line, the switchable
balun can be used to reduce the amount of mismatch the
ATU then has to to cope with.

This makes a simple dipole with tuned feeders a nice
multiband antenna.  On a given band, try both switch
positions and see which one helps the ATU make the best
match.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Brian Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 8:37 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Bal[un] (was: Buddipole vs. tuner and wire)


 OK, I am convinced - keep the tuner and the wire. So, that brings up
a
 second question: balanced vs. unbalanced.

 Wire antennas that do not require a counterpoise are usually loops
or
 dipoles, i.e. inherently balanced even if not resonant. Most tuners
 offer an unbalanced output. SGC says, just connect up the antenna.
 Seems to me that a balun would improve things and keep RF off the
coax
 and power leads to the tuner. But how well do baluns handle huge
 mismatch?

 Just off the top of my head, it seems to me that the tuner at the
top
 of a pole with two legs sloped down, i.e. inverted-V, would make a
 pretty good omni all-band antenna.

 More thinking aloud.

 Brian Lloyd
 Granite Bay Montessori School  9330 Sierra College Bl
 brian AT gbmontessori DOT com  Roseville, CA 95661
 +1.916.367.2131 (voice)+1.791.912.8170 (fax)

 PGP key ID:  12095C52A32A1B6C
 PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0  CC09 1209 5C52 A32A
1B6C




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[Elecraft] K3 BETA FIRMWARE RELEASE -- MCU rev 1.94

2008-05-13 Thread Tom Childers, N5GE

On Tue, 13 May 2008 10:56:27 -0400, Joe, W4TV wrote:


Bob, 

Try setting the threshold to 2 or 3 (CWT Hold).  With a fixed 
threshold, it seems very close to the previous performance on 
all but the strongest signals (and even the old FW was a bit 
touchy with S9+20 signals). 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
[snip]

That worked very well here on #806

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

Those who would give up 
Essential Liberty to 
purchase a little Temporary 
Safety deserve neither 
Liberty nor Safety 

An excerpt from a letter 
written in 1755 from the 
Assembly to the Governor 
of Pennsylvania.

Support the entire Constitution, not 
just the parts you like.

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] Bal[un] (was: Buddipole vs. tuner and wire)

2008-05-13 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF

Last year I used an inverted V doublet, supported by a telescopic
carbon fibre pole (DK9SQ pole http://www.qsl.net/dk9sq and review at http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/1094)
and fed by a short length of ribbon (300 ohms I think, the clear
plastic type) via an SG237. The doublet was not cut for any particular
band and I did not use a balun or redials etc. I worked PY from
Southern France (~5000 miles) on 20m with 100W SSB from an FT-857.

I haven't tried it yet, but I plan on doing the same again with my K3,
but via a BL2 this time.

73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--
The universe is like a safe to which there is a combination. But the
combination is locked up in the safe.
-Peter De Vries, editor, novelist (1910-1993)

On 13 May 2008, at 16:37, Brian Lloyd wrote:

OK, I am convinced - keep the tuner and the wire. So, that brings up
a second question: balanced vs. unbalanced.

Wire antennas that do not require a counterpoise are usually loops
or dipoles, i.e. inherently balanced even if not resonant. Most
tuners offer an unbalanced output. SGC says, just connect up the
antenna. Seems to me that a balun would improve things and keep RF
off the coax and power leads to the tuner. But how well do baluns
handle huge mismatch?

Just off the top of my head, it seems to me that the tuner at the
top of a pole with two legs sloped down, i.e. inverted-V, would make
a pretty good omni all-band antenna.

More thinking aloud.

Brian Lloyd
Granite Bay Montessori School 9330 Sierra College Bl
brian AT gbmontessori DOT com Roseville, CA 95661
+1.916.367.2131 (voice)+1.791.912.8170 (fax)

PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0 CC09 1209 5C52 A32A
1B6C

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Antenna 1/2 Operation

I think I see the problem.

An ATU does not normally autoadjust.  You have
to tell it that you want it to run.

You first set up the ATU with ant1 at whatever frequency
you want to use.  Then switch to ant2 and again set it up.
Now both antennas are matched on that frequency.

From now on, you just switch between antennas and they
are already matched and ready to go.  The ATU remembers
its settings for each antenna until you change them.

If you switch to another band, you redo the matching, but
when you switch back to the first band, the memory remembers
the correct match for each antenna and resets itself accordingly.
And if you jump back to the second band again, the ATU remembers
the correct settings and is ready to go on that band.

Great feature.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Windy Dankoff KM5Q [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 9:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Antenna 1/2 Operation



 I have the same concern as Craig. The recommendation from Robert and
Vic
 don't work on my K3.

 Here's my scheme:
 Ant. 1 is a non-resonant dipole. On 20m for example, SWR is 4.5:1.
The ATU
 brings it to 1:1.
 Ant. 2 is a screwdriver vertical on tin roof, adjusted (with ATU
bypassed)
 to show 1:1.

 I set the ATU for for either antenna, or one then the other, but it
NEVER
 auto-adjusts when I switch antennas. Never on any band or with any
 (mis)tuning of my vertical, have I heard more than one relay click
when
 switching ANT 1/2 (no ATU reset).

 I'm running the new Beta FW now (no problem) and it's my third FW
version.

 Windy KM5Q
 K3 #764
 Santa Fe, NM
 -- 
 View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/K3-Antenna-1-2-Operation-tp17208306p17212835.html
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[Elecraft] roofing filter questions

2008-05-13 Thread Dick Green WC1M

Hi,

 

I'm looking for articles on how the new roofing filter designs work. I've
seen the PowerPoint on Rob Sherwood's site, but it doesn't answer all my
questions.

 

Questions came up in a discussion with a friend of mine who is considering
the INRAD roofing filter mod for his Kenwood TS-950SDX. He operates almost
100% CW, and doesn't hear any IMD products. His beef is noise from stations
that are just outside the passband of his cascaded IF crystal filters. He's
hoping the roofing filter will increase the selectivity of the radio.

 

My sense is that it will help, but not by providing additional selectivity.
My understanding is that it will improve the dynamic range within the
passband by keeping the hardware AGC in the downstream IF stages from being
triggered by loud adjacent signals. Is this the correct way to think about
it?

 

My friend maintains that the roofing filter would provide selectivity as
well, but my sense is that unless it's narrower and/or has steeper skirts
than the IF filters, it won't. I believe the Kenwood roofing filter mod is
only on the order of 2K-3K wide, so the selectivity shouldn't improve.

 

Even if the roofing filter was the same or narrower than his IF filters,
would it improve selectivity? Is there an analogy with cascaded IF crystals?
Typically, a filter in the final IF stage (e.g., in the 450KHz range)
outperforms a filter in an earlier stage (e.g in the 8 MHz range.) Is this
because it's easier to make better filters at lower frequencies, or because
it's more effective to filter after any amplification by previous IF stages?

 

Obviously, I don't know squat about this.

 

73, Dick WC1M

 

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RE: [Elecraft] Bal[un] (was: Buddipole vs. tuner and wire)

2008-05-13 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire

It would really help if we could drop the incorrect balanced/unbalanced
nomenclature, but it's ingrained in Ham lore and it causes
misunderstandings. 

A coaxial RF output to an antenna is *balanced*: the currents flowing out
into the coax are as well balanced (perhaps better balanced) than those
flowing in any open wire or parallel wire feedline. 

The real difference is that a so-called balanced output is isolated from
the rig ground. It does not mean it's inherently any more balanced than
the coaxial connector output. 

So what's the big deal? When feeding a balanced load such as a loop or
center fed wire antenna, it's easier to preserve the balance of currents
when using an RF output that is isolated from the rig ground.

Of course, preserving that balance does a couple of good things:

1) When using a parallel wire feedline (so-called open wire, ribbon or
similar feedline), isolating the RF from the rig ground helps ensure that
all the RF is flowing in the two wires to minimize feedline radiation (or
pickup). Parallel wire lines with balanced currents do not produce an RF
field since the fields produced the wires are opposite in phase and equal in
amplitude, so there is no net RF field produced around the feeder. All the
RF energy is kept in the feed line to be moved to the load, whether it's
energy picked up to be fed to the receiver or energy from a transmitter to
be moved to the antenna. 

2) A parallel wire feedline maintains the intended RF path at the antenna
without complications at the feed point that are found using coax. Consider
the center fed wire, fed with a coaxial line. RF flowing along the center
conductor of a coaxial line flows out along one wire, while the RF flowing
along the inside of the shield flows out along the other wire. But that
shield has an inside and an outside. For RF, the inside and outside of the
shield are *different* conductors since the RF flows only along the very
surface of a conductor, thanks to skin effect. In other words, the inside
and outside surface of the shield on a coax looks like two completely
different and isolated conductors to the RF. When the RF reaches the edge of
the shield where it is connected to one side of a center fed wire, the RF is
free to flow along the antenna wire *and* flow back along the outside of the
coax shield. That means that you have two conductors connected to one side
of your 'center fed wire' - one is the intended antenna wire and the other
is the outside of the coax shield. 

In most cases that current on the outside of the coax shield is not a
problem. However, it can be an issue if the electrical length of the
feedline produces a voltage loop (high impedance point) at the rig. Properly
connected to the rig, a coaxial line shield is unbroken, so the outside of
the coax is contiguous with the outside of the metal enclosure on the rig.
The currents flowing on the inside surface of the rig flow out only onto the
inside surface of the coax. But, if there is RF on the *outside* of the coax
it will flow onto the outside of the rig. If the rig is at a voltage loop
and if the rig doesn't have a good *RF* ground, the rig can appear hot
with RF. 

Even if you put a balun at the antenna end to stop RF currents from flowing
back along the outside of the coax, you can end up with RF on the outside of
the shield and so at the rig. That's because the coaxial line is a conductor
very close to the radiator. In spite of a choke balun at the feed point, the
RF field around antenna easily can induce significant RF currents on the
outside of the coax. Those currents can flow down the outside of the coax to
the outside of the rig. In that case, a choke balun at the rig can help.

So what's the big deal with parallel wire feedlines, if coaxial lines offer
balanced currents to the antenna as well? In a word: impedance. Practical
coaxial lines have a fairly low impedance, where practical parallel wire
lines have a fairly high impedance. A coaxial line with an impedance of,
say, 400 ohms, requires a rather large diameter - usually several feet!(The
impedance is based on a ratio between the diameter of the shield and the
center conductor) Similarly, a parallel wire line with an impedance of, say
50 ohms, requires very close spacing of the wires. 

Impedance is important to minimize the SWR extremes, hence the resistive
losses, in a system that might show a wide range of impedances to the
feedline, such as a center fed wire used on several bands. A center fed wire
antenna (doublet) might show something from about 50 ohms where it's 1/2
wavelength long, up to maybe 2,000 ohms or so where it's 1 wavelength long.
A 400 ohm feed line will show an SWR range of about 5:1 over that entire
range. However, a 50 ohm coax line will show an SWR of about 40:1 when
feeding an antenna showing a 2000 ohm impedance at the feed point. That 40:1
means very large RF currents at the current loops along the feed line, hence
large resistive losses. 

You are quite right,

Re: [Elecraft] roofing filter questions

2008-05-13 Thread aj9c

Tell him he should buy a K-3.


 Dick Green WC1M [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
 Hi,
 
  
 
 I'm looking for articles on how the new roofing filter designs work. I've
 seen the PowerPoint on Rob Sherwood's site, but it doesn't answer all my
 questions.
 
  
 
 Questions came up in a discussion with a friend of mine who is considering
 the INRAD roofing filter mod for his Kenwood TS-950SDX. He operates almost
 100% CW, and doesn't hear any IMD products. His beef is noise from stations
 that are just outside the passband of his cascaded IF crystal filters. He's
 hoping the roofing filter will increase the selectivity of the radio.
 
  
 
 My sense is that it will help, but not by providing additional selectivity.
 My understanding is that it will improve the dynamic range within the
 passband by keeping the hardware AGC in the downstream IF stages from being
 triggered by loud adjacent signals. Is this the correct way to think about
 it?
 
  
 
 My friend maintains that the roofing filter would provide selectivity as
 well, but my sense is that unless it's narrower and/or has steeper skirts
 than the IF filters, it won't. I believe the Kenwood roofing filter mod is
 only on the order of 2K-3K wide, so the selectivity shouldn't improve.
 
  
 
 Even if the roofing filter was the same or narrower than his IF filters,
 would it improve selectivity? Is there an analogy with cascaded IF crystals?
 Typically, a filter in the final IF stage (e.g., in the 450KHz range)
 outperforms a filter in an earlier stage (e.g in the 8 MHz range.) Is this
 because it's easier to make better filters at lower frequencies, or because
 it's more effective to filter after any amplification by previous IF stages?
 
  
 
 Obviously, I don't know squat about this.
 
  
 
 73, Dick WC1M
 
  
 
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Re: [Elecraft] roofing filter questions

2008-05-13 Thread Jack Smith



 


Questions came up in a discussion with a friend of mine who is considering
the INRAD roofing filter mod for his Kenwood TS-950SDX. He operates almost
100% CW, and doesn't hear any IMD products. His beef is noise from stations
that are just outside the passband of his cascaded IF crystal filters. He's
hoping the roofing filter will increase the selectivity of the radio.


 


73, Dick WC1M

 

  

Dick:

The question is the source of this noise - it could well be reciprocal 
mixing from the 1st LO in which case no post-mixer filtering is going to 
fix the problem. This is exactly how reciprocal mixing appears to the user.


Until the noise origin is pinned down, it's not possible to state with 
certainty that a narrower high IF  filter will do anything.


Jack K8ZOA
www.cliftonlaboratories.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Antistatic mat without electrical ground

2008-05-13 Thread Stephen Prior

Don, and others

In older houses in the UK the neutral is bonded to a real ground at the fuse
box, where the ground is usually a long copper rod just a few feet away.
There is rarely in my experience more than a volt or two on the neutral.

More modern houses use PME (protective multiple earthing) where the neutral
is bonded not at the house but locally at the final step-down transformer-
the argument being that this forms a higher quality ground I believe.  The
real danger with PME is that the neutral may well then rise above 0 volts,
but in normal circumstances, because plumbing inside the house is bonded to
'ground', no potential (!) exists for electrocution.  Until, that is, a ham
decides to ground his equipment 'properly' outside.  Then large amounts of
current can potentially flow!

There was an excellent piece on this in Radcom many years ago by Peter
Chadwick G3RZP I think.  Ian, GM3SEK will no doubt remember and also know
far more than me about the issue!

--
73 Stephen G4SJP

KX-1, K2, and K3 ordered Christmas Eve!



On 12/05/2008 23:13, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 David,
 
 Very good advice in general.
 In this particular case, the original poster was in the US which is much
 more relaxed about withholding mains power from older residences that do
 not conform to the newer electrical codes (grandfather clauses, etc.).
 In addition, here in the US, one side of the 120 volt receptacles is
 connected to neutral - and the neutral is connected to earth ground at
 the mains service entry point.  I believe in the UK, both sides of the
 240 volt service are isolated from ground which can create more exposure.
 
 In this specific case, there has to be an existing ground rod at the
 electrical mains entry, and rather than driving an additional ground
 rod, it would be safe practice to add a direct wire from that mains
 ground to the location where the anti-static mat and wrist strap are
 located - Warning - if an additional ground rod is driven, it must be
 connected to the service entry ground by a #6 or larger wire to comply
 with NEC code.  The actual ground rod may be buried under the surface of
 the earth since many building inspectors and power companies insist on
 it to keep the ground rod from being removed by the unaware homeowner
 who finds an 'ugly obstacle' which interferes with his lawn mowing
 efforts.  When I built my house, the building inspector strongly
 suggested that I sink my ground rod under the surface, but I explained
 my reasons for not doing so, and he backed off.  I like to check and
 tighten my ground rod clamps once a year.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 
 
 David Woolley (E.L) wrote:
 Apologies for breaking threading.
 
 Paul G4LNA wrote:
 
 Just run a wire to a rod outside, it doesn't matter how long the
 wire is, as you say it's not an RF ground. I wouldn't use the gas
 pipe for safety reasons.
 
 This advice is dangerous and doesn't even really achieve what one
 needs to achieve.
 
 It's dangerous because, if there is a fault which connects live to any
 exposed metalwork, you have introduced a low resistance path to earth
 into an environment where the the fault was much less dangerous
 because only high resistance return paths existed.
 
 What you are really trying to do make sure that all, even partially,
 conducting surfaces are at the same voltage, including you and the
 soldering iron tip.  Normally you can rely on internal surfaces being
 insulated or connected to mains earth, because that is what modern
 electrical codes require, so it is normally appropriate to connect the
 mat to mains earth.
 
 As far as I know, in the UK, you would have electricity supply refused
 if you had two wire mains sockets (shaver sockets are specially
 isolated), except for environments which are specifically designed to
 be earth free, in which case you would not be allowed to have anything
 connected to earth.
 
 If you only have two wire sockets, or, more generally, if you do not
 know how the mains earth is arranged, you really need to consult a
 competent electrician before doing anything that involves earthing at
 DC to mains frequencies.  You should treat any metal connected to true
 earth, and inside, as though it was at mains voltage, and you should
 treat any wires going to the outside, as being at mains voltage, when
 outside.
 
 My own guess is that you either need to completely rewire to include
 an earth wire and properly earth all relevant appliances and bond
 other conductive surfaces to that earth, or to establish a work area
 that is a body's length from any electrical outlet, or equipment,
 provide conductive flooring, bond all surfaces electrically and use a
 battery powered soldering iron.  (Your electrical codes may be more
 specific about the separation distance.)  I think there are variations
 on this that provide some mains power, but I wouldn't want to suggest
 anything without detailed knowledge of local electrical codes.
 
 In general, if you put in earth

[Elecraft] FW: 6 meter birdie

2008-05-13 Thread Ron Spencer

Heard at 50.045 or so here too. Serial number 867. VERY low but there. Has
to be internal as its there with no antenna connected.

Ron
N4XD

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 BETA FIRMWARE RELEASE -- MCU rev 1.94

2008-05-13 Thread Windy Dankoff KM5Q


I'm getting the same result as Bob. No matter how I set the threshold, 2,3,
Automatic, etc, I cannot get it to perform as well as the old 1.78 version
which was just amazing.

Windy KM5Q



Well, I have, and found that the lower the threshold, the less stable.
Using the beta version, with THR = 2 excursions of 20 Hz between
auto-spot invocations are not uncommon - yet on the same signal (S5 or
so) the 1.78 version performs very well. The side by side comparison
with two rigs using the same signal is telling. I'll play with it a
bit more this evening.

Bob NW8L

On Tue, May 13, 2008 at 8:56 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Bob,

 Try setting the threshold to 2 or 3 (CWT Hold).  With a fixed
 threshold, it seems very close to the previous performance on
 all but the strongest signals (and even the old FW was a bit
 touchy with S9+20 signals).

 73,

   ... Joe, W4TV
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/K3-BETA-FIRMWARE-RELEASEMCU-rev-1.94-tp17199166p17215426.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Antenna 1/2 Operation

2008-05-13 Thread Windy Dankoff KM5Q


Thanks Robert and Craig.

I got it! In fact, I had it all along. I had been manually resetting ATU
with every band change, not knowing it was doing it for me! I can't tell the
difference between hearing one relay click and numerous relays are clicking
simultaneously -- they sound like one click to me, not even perceptibly
louder. I didn't believe it was working until I made as variety of tests. 
My previous rig is 30 years old. I'm still in Rip Van Winkle mode. All join
now, as we proclaim by golly.

Windy KM5Q
K3 #764
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/K3-Antenna-1-2-Operation-tp17208306p17215573.html
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: K3: High-Power TX Gain Calibration - No Output

I would next open up the K3 update tool, and under the Configuration 
tab, select the click on the Edit Crystal Filters... button.  In what 
ever mode you were getting the TX error on, ensure that one of buttons 
on the bottom 4 (including FM if applicable) lines is selected for 
that mode.  As an example, in my case, the 2.70 filter is selected for 
Tx CW, Tx SSB, and Tx AM.



Dave Wilburn
K4DGW
K2/100 - S/N 5982
K3/100 - S/N 766

For those who fought for it, freedom has a flavor the protected will 
never know.



Joe Word wrote:

Dave, PA is set to nor and have turned off/on multiple times.
Just checked the Circuit Breaker, it's making contact.

Joe

Dave wrote..
Have you initialized the PA in the menu and turned the rig off and on
a couple of times?


Dave Wilburn


-

-- Forwarded message --
From: Joe Word [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: May 13, 2008 11:28 AM
Subject: K3: High-Power TX Gain Calibration - No Output
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net


I am having problems with the 50 watt TX Gain Calibration, it shows 0
watts and gives the error ERR TXG. The Low-Power 5 watt test
worked fine and have low power output.

Anyone had and resolved this problem?

Running FW 1.88

Thanks,

Joe  N9VX

K3 #841
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Antenna 1/2 Operation

2008-05-13 Thread Vic K2VCO


Windy Dankoff KM5Q wrote:

I have the same concern as Craig. The recommendation from Robert and Vic
don't work on my K3. 


Here's my scheme:
Ant. 1 is a non-resonant dipole. On 20m for example, SWR is 4.5:1. The ATU
brings it to 1:1.
Ant. 2 is a screwdriver vertical on tin roof, adjusted (with ATU bypassed)
to show 1:1.

I set the ATU for for either antenna, or one then the other, but it NEVER
auto-adjusts when I switch antennas. Never on any band or with any
(mis)tuning of my vertical, have I heard more than one relay click  when
switching ANT 1/2 (no ATU reset).


Adjust the screwdriver coil for 1:1 on (for example) 7.2 MHz in BYPASS, 
then switch the tuner on, and tap ATU TUNE.


Then if you switch to that antenna on 7.2 you should always get 1:1.

Keep in mind that a screwdriver has a narrow bandwidth on the low bands 
and so you may have to retune if you QSY. This is not automatic with the K3.


So, I see two possibilities: either you didn't turn the tuner on and 
retune after adjusting the screwdriver coil in BYPASS, or you are far 
enough away from the original frequency that the SWR is high.


I guess it's possible that there's something wrong with your tuner, but 
it's not a firmware issue.


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] Fwd: K3: High-Power TX Gain Calibration - No Output

2008-05-13 Thread Joe Word

I fixed the problem. Removed KPA3 and found a gray wire out of T1, at
the C1 end,  was under the  mounting bracket (KPA3 to RF Shield). The
K3 now puts out full power and the High Power Gain Calibration is
complete for all bands.

Thanks Gary at Elecraft for the excellent help.

And thanks to all of you for your comments and suggestions.

What a nice receiver!!!


73,

Joe  N9VX


-- Forwarded message --
From: Joe Word [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: May 13, 2008 11:28 AM
Subject: K3: High-Power TX Gain Calibration - No Output
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net


I am having problems with the 50 watt TX Gain Calibration, it shows 0
watts and gives the error ERR TXG. The Low-Power 5 watt test
worked fine and have low power output.

Anyone had and resolved this problem?

Running FW 1.88

Thanks,

Joe  N9VX

K3 #841
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Re: [Elecraft] roofing filter questions

2008-05-13 Thread Bill W4ZV




Dick Green WC1M wrote:
 
 
 My friend maintains that the roofing filter would provide selectivity as
 well, but my sense is that unless it's narrower and/or has steeper skirts
 than the IF filters, it won't. I believe the Kenwood roofing filter mod is
 only on the order of 2K-3K wide, so the selectivity shouldn't improve. 
 
 Even if the roofing filter was the same or narrower than his IF filters,
 would it improve selectivity? Is there an analogy with cascaded IF
 crystals?
 Typically, a filter in the final IF stage (e.g., in the 450KHz range)
 outperforms a filter in an earlier stage (e.g in the 8 MHz range.) Is this
 because it's easier to make better filters at lower frequencies, or
 because
 it's more effective to filter after any amplification by previous IF
 stages?
 

From Inrad regarding the 950 roofing filter:

http://www.inrad.net/product.php?productid=88

#
The TS-950 roofing filter mod consists of a 6-pole, 4 to 5 kHz wide filter
followed by a high dynamic range feedback amplifier. The amplifier provides
enough gain to override the filter insertion loss.

The IMD dynamic range will be improved 5 to 15 dB for some signal spacings.
Also, the blocking dynamic range will be improved up to 10 dB for close in
signals.

The roofing filter mod inserts a narrow band crystal filter between the RF
assembly and the IF board. Reducing the bandwidth at this point in the radio
helps to keep strong off-frequency signals out of the second mixer, where
they can cause intermodulation. Transmission is not changed, as it does not
pass through the roofing filter.
###

If he's being bothered by signals just outside the passband of his cascaded
IF crystal filters (presumably 500 Hz each), a 4-5 kHz roofing filter won't
help at all since the roofing filter is ~10X the bandwidth of his IF filters
and will continue to pass the signals bothering him.  If he had a narrow
roofing filter like the K3 (200-500 Hz), that would help IMD (intermod) and
BDR (desense) issues but would *not* reduce transmitted issues from a dirty
interfering TX signal.  Jack K8ZOA is right that it depends on the exact
nature of the interference (i.e. is it transmitted [phase noise or key
clicks] or internal to the receiver [IMD, BDR or LO phase noise]?)

73,  Bill  W4ZV
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/roofing-filter-questions-tp17213673p17216992.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 BETA FIRMWARE RELEASE -- MCU rev 1.9

2008-05-13 Thread Randy Downs

And FireFox has a nice Propagation plugin.
Randy
K8RDD
- Original Message - 
From: Dave Martin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 9:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 BETA FIRMWARE RELEASE -- MCU rev 1.9

My IE version 6 works fine, Raymond, but sometimes it takes a minute
for their FTP server to respond.  I thought that all recent IE
versions included FTP capability.  But I use Firefox.  I've found that
it's less annoying overall than IE.  If nothing else works, maybe you
could download Firefox and try it.  Or there's a number of free FTP
clients available on the web.

Dave  W5DHM

On 5/13/08, Raymond METZGER [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hi Elecrafters,

 I have always loaded FW releases from the normal http:// Elecraft 
server.
 To load the latest beta version, we are instructed to access an FTP 
server

 (URL = ftp://ftp.elecraft...)
 My Internet Explorer config does not allow me to access the FTP site.
 What should I do ?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Antenna 1/2 Operation

2008-05-13 Thread G4ILO


I am one of the people who requested that the ATU active / bypass settings
could be stored along with ANT 1 / 2. The reason was that the antenna I
don't want the ATU in circuit for is externally tuned. I still need to put
out a tuning signal, and I guess that having the ATU in circuit might
confuse the SWR readings when I am tuning. At the back of my mind I was
probably also thinking that the KAT would auto-retune in the presence of a
high SWR, like the external SGC tuners do.

Even though there is a workaround of tuning the ATU into 50 ohms, I would
still like to have the ATU in / out settings stored. The reason is that I
have to remember which of two TUNE buttons to press depending on which
antenna I am using. If I am using the externally tuned antenna and the ATU
is active and I press ATU TUNE instead of TUNE by mistake, the KAT will try
to match the antenna, and my previous adjustment of it into 50 ohms will be
lost. If the ATU is automatically bypassed when I select the antenna that
doesn't need it, nothing happens if I press the button in error. And believe
me, I often press things in error.

-
Julian, G4ILO  K3 s/n: 222 K2 s/n: 392
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/K3-Antenna-1-2-Operation-tp17208306p17217979.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] ARRL News Item Concerning China Quake


http://www.arrl.org/news/stories/2008/05/13/10095/?nc=1
--


Dave Wilburn
K4DGW
K2/100 - S/N 5982
K3/100 - S/N 766

For those who fought for it, freedom has a flavor the protected will 
never know.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Antenna 1/2 Operation

2008-05-13 Thread David Cutter


I agree completely

David
G3UNA




I am one of the people who requested that the ATU active / bypass settings
could be stored along with ANT 1 / 2. The reason was that the antenna I
don't want the ATU in circuit for is externally tuned. I still need to put
out a tuning signal, and I guess that having the ATU in circuit might
confuse the SWR readings when I am tuning. At the back of my mind I was
probably also thinking that the KAT would auto-retune in the presence of a
high SWR, like the external SGC tuners do.

Even though there is a workaround of tuning the ATU into 50 ohms, I would
still like to have the ATU in / out settings stored. The reason is that I
have to remember which of two TUNE buttons to press depending on which
antenna I am using. If I am using the externally tuned antenna and the ATU
is active and I press ATU TUNE instead of TUNE by mistake, the KAT will 
try
to match the antenna, and my previous adjustment of it into 50 ohms will 
be

lost. If the ATU is automatically bypassed when I select the antenna that
doesn't need it, nothing happens if I press the button in error. And 
believe

me, I often press things in error.

-
Julian, G4ILO  K3 s/n: 222 K2 s/n: 392 


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[Elecraft] Copyright images used on YouTube The Elecraft Band without permission

2008-05-13 Thread Dave G4AON

There are two videos currently on YouTube which use a sequence of 
Elecraft related still images taken from various web sites. Some are 
from my site and used without permission.


Other web site owners may wish to check out The Elecraft Band and The 
Elecraft Band II by LU1DZ on YouTube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adAlnXZlheA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_UI9fiGNXxg

73 Dave, G4AON
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Re: [Elecraft] Bal[un] (was: Buddipole vs. tuner and wire)

2008-05-13 Thread David Yarnes

The BL2 (switchable balun) will handle 250 watts!  That should be enough.

Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Brian Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft Reflector 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 9:54 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Bal[un] (was: Buddipole vs. tuner and wire)

Hi Brian
I don't recall if you mentioned what power level you
would be using with your K2.  If it is running barefoot,
without the 100w PA, you could use one of the Elecraft
switchable baluns.  They switch between 1:1 and 4:1
ratios, giving you a good chance to match most balanced
feeds.

Even though the rig end of the line may be reactive, due
to impedance mismatches along the line, the switchable
balun can be used to reduce the amount of mismatch the
ATU then has to to cope with.

This makes a simple dipole with tuned feeders a nice
multiband antenna.  On a given band, try both switch
positions and see which one helps the ATU make the best
match.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Brian Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 8:37 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Bal[un] (was: Buddipole vs. tuner and wire)

OK, I am convinced - keep the tuner and the wire. So, that brings up

a

second question: balanced vs. unbalanced.

Wire antennas that do not require a counterpoise are usually loops

or

dipoles, i.e. inherently balanced even if not resonant. Most tuners
offer an unbalanced output. SGC says, just connect up the antenna.
Seems to me that a balun would improve things and keep RF off the

coax

and power leads to the tuner. But how well do baluns handle huge
mismatch?

Just off the top of my head, it seems to me that the tuner at the

top

of a pole with two legs sloped down, i.e. inverted-V, would make a
pretty good omni all-band antenna.

More thinking aloud.

Brian Lloyd
Granite Bay Montessori School  9330 Sierra College Bl
brian AT gbmontessori DOT com  Roseville, CA 95661
+1.916.367.2131 (voice)+1.791.912.8170 (fax)

PGP key ID:  12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0  CC09 1209 5C52 A32A

1B6C

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Re: [Elecraft] Copyright images used on YouTube The Elecraft Band without permission

2008-05-13 Thread Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604

Shame!

And he even missed two of the better images I've seen- the one on the
wall of Bush House, and the one from N8S.

How many of you know where the two beach house photos near the end
were taken?  Have been there?  Have operated from there?

73, doug

   Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 22:35:10 +0100
   From: Dave G4AON [EMAIL PROTECTED]

   There are two videos currently on YouTube which use a sequence of 
   Elecraft related still images taken from various web sites. Some are 
   from my site and used without permission.

   Other web site owners may wish to check out The Elecraft Band and The 
   Elecraft Band II by LU1DZ on YouTube:
   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adAlnXZlheA
   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_UI9fiGNXxg

   73 Dave, G4AON
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: birdie on 50.045?

2008-05-13 Thread Dr. Werner Furlan

hi all, 

I have to add: 
it is only in CW, with PREamp on.
characteristic is that moving the shift alters the height of the tone.
I found one on 50.030, 50.046, 50.078, 50.094

VE3NFK schrieb am 13 May 2008 um 5:12:

 
 Nothing heard here  SN 709..
 73
 John VE3NFK
 
 DL5OCD wrote:
  
  No, in my case the reveiver is quiet on this frequency.
  
  73
  Michael
  


-- 
You know you're getting old when you stop to tie your shoes and wonder 
what else you can do while you're down there.


Email powered by Pegasus Mail free at http://www.pmail.com
Homepage: http://www.qsl.net/oe9fwv/
Fone +43 5522 75013
Fax +43 820 555 85 2621
Mobile +43 664 6340014
Elecraft K2 #5203 K3 #656


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[Elecraft] K3 Antenna 1/2 Operation

2008-05-13 Thread David Lankshear

Same for me.  I would like my (forthcoming) K3 to feature storable ATU bypass 
settings, as described by G4ILO.

DaveL  G3TJP

==

I agree completely

David
G3UNA



 I am one of the people who requested that the ATU active / bypass settings
 could be stored along with ANT 1 / 2. The reason was that the antenna I
 don't want the ATU in circuit for is externally tuned. I still need to put
 out a tuning signal, and I guess that having the ATU in circuit might
 confuse the SWR readings when I am tuning. At the back of my mind I was
 probably also thinking that the KAT would auto-retune in the presence of a
 high SWR, like the external SGC tuners do.

 Even though there is a workaround of tuning the ATU into 50 ohms, I would
 still like to have the ATU in / out settings stored. The reason is that I
 have to remember which of two TUNE buttons to press depending on which
 antenna I am using. If I am using the externally tuned antenna and the ATU
 is active and I press ATU TUNE instead of TUNE by mistake, the KAT will 
 try
 to match the antenna, and my previous adjustment of it into 50 ohms will 
 be
 lost. If the ATU is automatically bypassed when I select the antenna that
 doesn't need it, nothing happens if I press the button in error. And 
 believe
 me, I often press things in error.

 -
 Julian, G4ILO  K3 s/n: 222 K2 s/n: 392 
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[Elecraft] Re: Re:Re: KRX3 Invoice

2008-05-13 Thread Andrew Faber

Lisa,
 That's great. I'll see you then.
 73, andy, ae6y
- Original Message - 
From: Lisa Jones - Elecraft Sales [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Andrew Faber [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 3:26 PM
Subject: Re:Re: KRX3 Invoice

Andy,

I'll check with Ed, but for sure we will have yours ready around noon with 
a 500 filter.

Thanks,
Lisa

Andrew Faber wrote:

Hi Lisa,
  Thanks very much.  I'd just like to add a KFLA3-500, the 500 Hz 5-pole 
filter.
  Since we are leaving for Aruba on Tuesday the 20th, I'd rather come 
pick it up when it's ready, instead of having it shipped.  If Ed wants, I 
could also pick up his as well.
  Tomorrow circa lunch time could work for me, or late afternoon 
Thursday.  Are either times OK for you?

 73, andy, ae6y

- Original Message -
*From:* Elecraft. Inc. mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
*To:* [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
*Sent:* Tuesday, May 13, 2008 1:59 PM
*Subject:* KRX3 Invoice

Dear Andy,

We are ready to ship your KRX3. PLease confirm the attached invoice
and let us know if you require any additional filters or the KBPF3
General Coverage Module.

Thank you,

Lisa

 *To view your invoice*
Open the attached PDF file. You must have Acrobat® Reader®
http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html installed to
view the attachment.

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Re: [Elecraft] Bal[un] (was: Buddipole vs. tuner and wire)

2008-05-13 Thread Bob Tellefsen

You're right, Dave.
I have three of them.
Very handy little beasts.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: David Yarnes [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Brian Lloyd
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft Reflector
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 2:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Bal[un] (was: Buddipole vs. tuner and wire)

 The BL2 (switchable balun) will handle 250 watts!  That should be
enough.

 Dave W7AQK

 - Original Message - 
 From: Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Brian Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft Reflector
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 9:54 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Bal[un] (was: Buddipole vs. tuner and wire)

  Hi Brian
  I don't recall if you mentioned what power level you
  would be using with your K2.  If it is running barefoot,
  without the 100w PA, you could use one of the Elecraft
  switchable baluns.  They switch between 1:1 and 4:1
  ratios, giving you a good chance to match most balanced
  feeds.

  Even though the rig end of the line may be reactive, due
  to impedance mismatches along the line, the switchable
  balun can be used to reduce the amount of mismatch the
  ATU then has to to cope with.

  This makes a simple dipole with tuned feeders a nice
  multiband antenna.  On a given band, try both switch
  positions and see which one helps the ATU make the best
  match.

  Good luck and 73
  Bob N6WG

  - Original Message - 
  From: Brian Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 8:37 AM
  Subject: [Elecraft] Bal[un] (was: Buddipole vs. tuner and wire)

  OK, I am convinced - keep the tuner and the wire. So, that brings
up
  a
  second question: balanced vs. unbalanced.

  Wire antennas that do not require a counterpoise are usually
loops
  or
  dipoles, i.e. inherently balanced even if not resonant. Most
tuners
  offer an unbalanced output. SGC says, just connect up the
antenna.
  Seems to me that a balun would improve things and keep RF off the
  coax
  and power leads to the tuner. But how well do baluns handle huge
  mismatch?

  Just off the top of my head, it seems to me that the tuner at the
  top
  of a pole with two legs sloped down, i.e. inverted-V, would make
a
  pretty good omni all-band antenna.

  More thinking aloud.

  Brian Lloyd
  Granite Bay Montessori School  9330 Sierra College Bl
  brian AT gbmontessori DOT com  Roseville, CA 95661
  +1.916.367.2131 (voice)+1.791.912.8170 (fax)

  PGP key ID:  12095C52A32A1B6C
  PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0  CC09 1209 5C52
A32A
  1B6C

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[Elecraft] K3 Operating Tip: Combining noise blanking and noise reduction

The K3 has quite an array of tools for dealing with noise. At my QTH, I 
have a compromise antenna for the low bands that serves up every type 
of noise imaginable, so I get plenty of chances to put these tools to 
the test.


When I switch to 160 m, I often hear strong pulse noise, as well as a 
drifting hash every 15 kHz or so (likely from a switching power 
supply) *and* a high level of atmospheric noise. Here's a general 
approach to dealing with noise:


Atmospheric (white noise):

Noise varies from band to band, so the K3 saves both DSP and IF noise 
blanker settings on a per-band/per-memory basis.


73,
Wayne
N6KR

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[Elecraft] Re: K3 Antenna 1/2 Operation


Windy Dankoff KM5Q wrote:

I set the ATU for for either antenna, or one then the other, but it 
NEVER

auto-adjusts when I switch antennas. Never on any band or with any
(mis)tuning of my vertical, have I heard more than one relay click  
when

switching ANT 1/2 (no ATU reset).


Windy,

The relays on the KAT3 are very quiet. Multiple relays are definitely 
being switched when you go from one antenna to the other -- but they're 
all switched simultaneously, so it sounds like one relay.


Here's a way to prove it. Auto-tune both antennas at a given frequency 
(presumably both get close to 1:1). Then do a TUNE to check the SWR one 
ANT 1. Now switch to ANT 2 and do a TUNE to check its SWR. It should 
still be 1:1, because the relays *did* switch.


Another way to prove that the relays switched is to use the KAT3's LC 
SET mode (in the menu). This is normally used to manually adjust LC 
values for troubleshooting purposes, but you can also use it to check 
the ATU's present LC settings:


  1. Set the KAT3 for AUTO mode and tune up both antennas.
  2. Set CONFIG:KAT3 to LC SET and exit the menu.
  3. Tap ATU TUNE: It'll show you the L and C values as well as
 where the 'C' is (CT = xmit side of the L-network, CA = ant side).
  4. Tap ATU TUNE to clear the LC display.
  5. Set CONFIG:KAT3 to AUTO and exit the menu.
  6. Tap ANT to switch to the other antenna, then repeat steps 2-5;
 you'll see a different LC value in effect.

We're also going to add multiple ATU LC storage segments per band.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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[Elecraft] Re: K3 Operating Tip: Combining noise blanking and noise reduction

Sorry, folks, I hit send too soon on this. Work in progress -- ignore 
for now!


Wayne

On May 13, 2008, at 4:08 PM, wayne burdick wrote:


The K3 has quite an array of tools for dealing with noise




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[Elecraft] Re: K3 Antenna 1/2 Operation