[Elecraft] Thanks: CfP QST May 1981, p. 43, Belrose, John, VE2CV

2008-05-28 Thread Heinz Bärtschi
QST Article received this morning.
Thanks to everybody for the great support!

73 es gl,
Heinz  HB9BCB

K2/QRP #1350, #5917
K1-4  #0793, #2460
KX-1  #392

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Re: [Elecraft] SV: Getting Ready For The 2nd RX

2008-05-28 Thread Bill W4ZV



Lennart Michaëlsson wrote:
 
 
 Actually, changing filters in the second rx is harder. To change the
 filter in rx 1, you can just lift rx 2 out of the way. But to change the
 filter in rx 2, you must remove it and take the board out of the shield
 box to get at the screw that holds the filter!
 --
 73,
 Vic, K2VCO
 Fresno CA
 
 ... and what filters do the test pilots recommend?
 Presently I have 6, 2.8, 0.4 and 0.25 kHz - all being 8 pole.
 Would a 2.8 and a 0.4 be enough to keep cost down for a non FM/AM man?
 Len/SM7BIC
 

That should be fine Len.  There are also a couple of other issues people
should be aware of, especially if you plan to use diversity:

1.  I would not mix filters of different types that are near the same
bandwidth (i.e. a 2.7k 5-pole with a 2.8k 8-pole).  Use both 5-poles or both
8-poles, not one of each.  The reason is that you want the passband shape
and filter offset to match as closely as possible.

2.  If you have 5-pole filters, it may be necessary to get matched sets from
Elecraft.  The reason is that there will be a frequency difference in
diversity if the filters don't have the same offset.  If you have two 500 Hz
5-pole filters with slightly different offsets (e.g. -0.89 and -0.85), it
may be possible to set them both to -0.87.  Elecraft needs to do some more
testing and will provide more information about this issue.

3.  Because of 1 and 2 above, 8-pole filters may be preferable to 5-pole
filters if you plan to use diversity.  Now that there is only $25 difference
between the 5-pole and 8-pole filters, this may be a good reason to consider
8-pole filters when placing your order.

73,  Bill

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[Elecraft] Widertuning range wanted on K1

2008-05-28 Thread Curron HILL
I'm wanting to spread out my tuning on my K1 enough to get to 7.120. I have 
it now only tuning 80.   I don't really care to make it 150.  The kit came 
with two caps, one for 80 and one for 150 tuning.  I don't want to make it 
two wide and so sensitive.  Is there a way anyone has found?


Also the manual suggests with the 4 band module to select the 80 tuning cap 
why?   would stretching it out to get 7.120 cause my 4 band module to work 
as well?


Thanks in advance for any help,

73 de KB3DRW


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[Elecraft] KX1 3080 module part 1 test

2008-05-28 Thread Trevor Smithers
I've just completed part 1 of the 3080 build and re-done the alignment. All 
appears well, 
40/20 rx working as expected.
However I've noticed that the rf gain control (R1) appears to now have very 
limited range 
in fact it hardly seems to make any difference at all - is this because the 
rest of the build 
has yet to be completed or does it indicate a possible problem. When I did the 
resistance check of R1 I got around 900 ohms.

73 to all
Trevor  G0KTN 
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Re: [Elecraft] SV: Getting Ready For The 2nd RX

2008-05-28 Thread Bill W4ZV



Lennart Michaëlsson wrote:
 
 
 ... and what filters do the test pilots recommend?
 Presently I have 6, 2.8, 0.4 and 0.25 kHz - all being 8 pole.
 
 

One more issue Len.  In your example above, you should only use diversity in
the WIDTH range where identical filters will be in use.  You would want to
avoid using diversity with bandwidths where you would have filters of two
different bandwidths in use (e.g. above 2800 and below 400).

BTW, on another issue,  I assume you know the 250 Hz is actually ~370 Hz and
the 400 is actually ~435 Hz according to measurements provided by Elecraft:

http://www.zerobeat.net/mediawiki/index.php/K3_Roofing_Filters

If it were me, I might consider removing the 250 while you have the radio
open to do the KRX3 installation.  You could sell it and use the proceeds to
help pay for the second 400 to use in the KRX3.  There is so little
difference in actual BW between the 400 and 250 that I believe having
both may be redundant. 

73,  Bill
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s in WPX M/S - WOW!

2008-05-28 Thread David Woolley (E.L)

Vic K2VCO wrote:


It's not in the manual. They are two different types of DSP filters. I 
think FIR has slightly less ringing, but IIR has...something else. 
Anyway, some people may prefer the sound of one to the other.


FIR means finite impulse response and IIR means infinite impulse 
response.  Impulse response is how the output responds to a sudden 
change in input.  Ringing is an impulse response.  FIR filters have an 
output that only depends on the last n samples, so ringing cannot last 
any longer than that.  IIR filters have feedback and, give or take 
rounding errors and getting lost in the noise, the effect of an input 
change lasts for ever, although it will normally get vanishingly small. 
 If IIR filters ring, they will ring for ever, like analogue filters.


FIR filters can also have a frequency independent group delay, which is 
good for digital modes.


The disadvantage of FIR filters is that you need much more computing 
power to create an equally sharp filter, as you have to add 
contributions from the many more previous sample times.


A simple IIR filter (although one that doesn't ring) would be an 
exponential average, where you combine a fixed proportion of the 
previous output with (1 - that proportion) times the current input.


A simple FIR filter would be a rolling average, where you average the 
last n samples.  Note that this requires n calculations, whereas the 
exponential average only requires a couple.



--
David Woolley
The Elecraft list is a forum for the discussion of topics related to 
Elecraft products and more general topics related ham radio

List Guidelines http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_list_guidelines.htm
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[Elecraft] WA3WSJ's PA QRP Hike

2008-05-28 Thread Edward R. Breneiser
Hello all,

Well I hiked 27-miles in four days and met a bunch of interesting
people. In fact I met a ham at the ATC Headquarters in Boiling Springs
and another ham on the trail. I hiked from Duncannon, PA to Boiling
Springs, PA and had a real blast.  I also took my pimped-out KX1 with
me and made contacts along the Appalachian Trail. This hike was the
first in a series of four hikes I'm calling my Footsteps into Maryland
Series of hikes. I started this PA AT Hike a few years ago and hope to
finish off Pennsylvania soon. The scenery was just awesome! The weather
was great and the AT just fabulous for this hike. If anyone wants to
view pictures of my hike, just click on the link below.

http://www.wa3wsj.homestead.com

72,
Kangaroo Ed, WA3WSJ

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[Elecraft] K3 wish - instant AGC setup recall

2008-05-28 Thread KM0O

Different band and QRM conditions can require different combinations of AGC
parameters (HLD, SLP, THR, and decay rate). Thanks to Elecraft for allowing
us to access and adjust all of these to our liking.

But wouldn't it be even finer if we were able to program a few different
combinations of settings for different conditions, and recall them with just
one or two switch taps? I believe that I can program the I/II button to give
me instant access to change the settings for one parameter, but this would
go well beyond that.

Would do folks think about this? Wayne, can it be added to your list?

Tony
KM0O, XU7MWA
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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with 15 Meters

2008-05-28 Thread Don Wilhelm

Cory,

Your problem is with the 2 band board only - the K1 works on 80 meters, 
so the base K1 is working OK.


Yes, it would seem that you have a problem with the bandpass filter - it 
should not attenuate the signal as much as you reported.  Check all the 
components, and especially check the soldering - in fact, check the 
soldering at least 3 times with a break between each check.  If you can 
have another pair of eyes look it over, that may reveal something that 
you missed.  If you are not certain what a good solder joint looks like, 
I refer you to the soldering tutorial on the Elecraft website Builder's 
Resource page (or is it application notes, my memory fades...).


73,
Don W3FPR


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I am having problems after installing my 2 band filter module for 80 and 15 
meters. 80 meters works perfect, puts out 5 watts without any problem, however, 
when I switch to 15 meters, the power is severly reduced to 1/10th of a watt. 
Coils L3 L4 L7 and L8 tuned fine. From the RF bandpass filters the RF coming 
out is half of what is going in. Has anybody had this problem before??

73 DE N1URA
-Cory
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.24.1/1469 - Release Date: 5/27/2008 1:25 PM
  

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[Elecraft] K3 Filter selection

2008-05-28 Thread Jim Miller
I keep seeing talk of the 400(435) or 500 combined with the 250(370).  I see
very little talk about the 200.  My thought was to use the 400 and the 200.
Maybe the decision should include the 500/200 combination.  Is the 200 just
too narrow or why don't I see more apparent use of it?  I know, what is my
use?  I want to be able to operate most all modes except AM and FM where I
have very little interest at this time.  Will the 400 cut out RTTY?

The other configuration I was considering was the 500 and the 250 but hadn't
added the filters to my order yet as I was trying to make up my mind but
comments here aren't really helping with my decision.

Thanks es 73, de Jim KG0KP

- Original Message - 
From: Bill W4ZV [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 6:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SV: Getting Ready For The 2nd RX





Lennart Michaëlsson wrote:


 ... and what filters do the test pilots recommend?
 Presently I have 6, 2.8, 0.4 and 0.25 kHz - all being 8 pole.



One more issue Len.  In your example above, you should only use diversity in
the WIDTH range where identical filters will be in use.  You would want to
avoid using diversity with bandwidths where you would have filters of two
different bandwidths in use (e.g. above 2800 and below 400).

BTW, on another issue,  I assume you know the 250 Hz is actually ~370 Hz and
the 400 is actually ~435 Hz according to measurements provided by Elecraft:

http://www.zerobeat.net/mediawiki/index.php/K3_Roofing_Filters

If it were me, I might consider removing the 250 while you have the radio
open to do the KRX3 installation.  You could sell it and use the proceeds to
help pay for the second 400 to use in the KRX3.  There is so little
difference in actual BW between the 400 and 250 that I believe having
both may be redundant.

73,  Bill
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[Elecraft] WPX K3 impressions..

2008-05-28 Thread cx7tt
WPX contest with K3/Acom 1000 and 3 ele Steppir @ 40ft.a lot of fun 
although condx were pretty poor here in the 'southern cone' for a little 
pistol station. Mi amigo, CX6VM aka CW5W, did very FB job from his nice 
contest station about 400km from here. I listened to his pileup several 
times and he was working Qs that were ESP here...but then he has tall 
towers and big iron...Congrats, Jorge.
The K3 was a pleasure to operate in this contest. I generally did SP as 
I could not get anything going with Cqing...the exception was Sat 
afternoon when had very nice EU pileup on 10m then later 15m. About the 
RIT...I dont particularly care for using the RIT when running a 
pileup...my preference is work split. The K3 was very easy to do this 
with: AB, Split, then call CQ...that way I can use the big knob to fine 
tune the callers which are off frequency (happens a lot).


My request for firmware change is to have a method to Lock VFO B so I 
dont 'bump' the knob and lose my pileup. How about when Split 
activated, Lock applies to VFO B?


A tip of the cap to Windy, KM5Q (I think it was you) who suggested 
using CWT to fine tune the RF gain control...worked super! Major 
'Ah-Ha'. There were times when PRE not needed at all and others when PRE 
with RF gain backed off made the difference in working guys or not.


No AGC issue here with strong stations as the 1 skip zone falls in PY 
land...the very few Monster stations were easily taken out with the 
DSP...I have the 1.8, 500 and 250 roofing filters.


Finally, I also have a Orion II and can do A/B test between the two 
rigscw is not even close...although the O II is a fine rig, there is 
an annoying hiss which is much louder than the background noise of the 
K3; have to almost constantly move the RFGain control to stay on top of 
that with the O IIthe NR is STILL a work in progress w/TenTec...way 
too much distortion at even a 2 rating. With the K3, I never use NR on 
cw as the DSP does FB job. The O II is fatiguing to listen too compared 
to the K3. OTOH, I do like the SSB sound of the O II better...it seems 
much 'fuller' than the K3. Not that important to me as I do not do much 
SSB. I probably need to delve into the K3 RX equal settings and play 
with that...anybody got recommended RX settings for SSB?


73
Tom
CX7TT
K3 #250
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[Elecraft] Shipping Status

2008-05-28 Thread Jim Cox
How about an updated shipping status on the K3s and second receiver? 

Jim K4JAF
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Filter selection

2008-05-28 Thread Bill W4ZV



Jim Miller-14 wrote:
 
 I keep seeing talk of the 400(435) or 500 combined with the 250(370).  I
 see
 very little talk about the 200.  My thought was to use the 400 and the
 200.
 Maybe the decision should include the 500/200 combination.  Is the 200
 just
 too narrow or why don't I see more apparent use of it?  I know, what is
 my
 use?  I want to be able to operate most all modes except AM and FM where I
 have very little interest at this time.  Will the 400 cut out RTTY?
 
 The other configuration I was considering was the 500 and the 250 but
 hadn't
 added the filters to my order yet as I was trying to make up my mind but
 comments here aren't really helping with my decision.
 

Here are the options you are considering:

400 and 250:  A waste of money IMHO.  Since the 400 is actually 435 and the
250 is actually 370, there is only 65 Hz difference in this combination and
you'll probably never notice the difference between them (370/435 = only 15%
narrower).  Total cost $250.

500 and 250:  The 500 (actually 565) is a nice BW for contests since you can
hear callers who are off-frequency.  The 250 (actually 370) is 35% narrower
so you'll notice a little more difference than above.  Total cost $225.

500 and 200 (mine is ~210 Hz):  This is my choice.  I like the 500 since it
is wide enough for off-frequency callers and yet the 200 is great for
severe contest QRM situations like the bottom end of 40m was during CW WPX
or 160m during one of the 160 contests.  Having used the 200 in several 160
contests, I wouldn't consider being without it.  Total cost $200.

RTTY/PSK considerations:  I'll let someone else address since I don't use
either.

Diversity considerations:  If you choose 5-pole filters the offsets need to
be matched but I believe Elecraft will provide some alternatives for this. 
For CW filters, it should be possible to split the difference in minor
offset differences and any passband shape differences are not as critical as
on SSB (i.e. probably not an important consideration for CW filters).

IMD differences:  Negligible as Inrad, Sherwood and Ten-Tec have previously
stated, and as shown in Elecraft's own IMD measurements on the roofing
filter page previously cited.

You'll probably get N different opinions from N different users so you'll
have to decide for yourself!

73,  Bill


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Re: [Elecraft] Shipping Status

2008-05-28 Thread David Pratt

In a recent message, Jim Cox [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote ...

How about an updated shipping status on the K3s and second receiver?


How about it, Jim?  The existing information on the Elecraft web site 
looks perfectly clear.  By several weeks, I understand to mean about 
four.


They are now due to arrive here late this week (5/9).

We will pause for several weeks after the first shipment to make sure 
there are no problems in the field with the first units and then we will 
resume shipping in full volume. (We will be building KRX3s during this 
period.)


73
--
David G4DMP
Leeds, England, UK
--


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Re: SV: [Elecraft] Getting Ready For The 2nd RX

2008-05-28 Thread Vic K2VCO

Lennart Michaëlsson wrote:


... and what filters do the test pilots recommend?
Presently I have 6, 2.8, 0.4 and 0.25 kHz - all being 8 pole.
Would a 2.8 and a 0.4 be enough to keep cost down for a non FM/AM man?


It depends on what you want to use the 2nd receiver for. I am primarily 
interested in using it for finding the correct spot in a CW pileup to 
call a DX station, so I will mostly be using a relatively wide 
bandwidth. Therefore I chose to use a single 2.8 kHz filter in the sub 
(I have 400 Hz, 1 kHz and 2.8 kHz in the main rx).


I am also interested in experimenting with diversity reception. If I 
were to do this seriously I might want another 400 Hz to match the one 
in the main. Also, for diversity reception it's best for the filters to 
have the same offsets (which is why I swapped the 2.7 in sub receiver 
for a 2.8 to match the one in my main rx).

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] WPX K3 impressions..

2008-05-28 Thread Bill W4ZV



Tom CX7TT wrote:
 
 My request for firmware change is to have a method to Lock VFO B so I 
 dont 'bump' the knob and lose my pileup. How about when Split 
 activated, Lock applies to VFO B?
 

You can lock VFO B independently from VFO A.  Use A/B or use BSET to lock
only VFO B.  I operate the same as you with Split when running stations. 
RIT has been an unused function on my rigs since I got a TS-930S in 1984. 
Why twiddle that dinky RIT knob when you can use the large one by operating
split?

73,  Bill

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Re: [Elecraft] SV: Getting Ready For The 2nd RX

2008-05-28 Thread Jerry Flanders




Lennart Michaëlsson wrote:


 ... and what filters do the test pilots recommend?
 Presently I have 6, 2.8, 0.4 and 0.25 kHz - all being 8 pole.




I am getting only the standard 2.7 for my second 
receiver. You can use the DSP to narrow the 
response to whatever you need even though you 
only have the 2.7 roofing filter installed. The 
DSP works so well in this way on the K3 I have at 
present that I see no reason to spend money on a 
narrower filter to be used in an _auxiliary_ receiver.


Jerry W4UK 


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Fwd: Re: [Elecraft] SV: Getting Ready For The 2nd RX

2008-05-28 Thread Bill Tippett
Hi Orin,

Copying this to the list since others may have a similar situation.

On Wed, May 28, 2008 at 9:08 AM, ORIN G. HELVEY,JR. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

On the filters, I had planned to only install a 0.500 in the second
 receiver as I thought I would probably only be using it on 160 cw. I
 already have these two filters.  One is -.85 and one is -.84. Would you
 advise sending one back for an exact match, or is this close enough?

In my opinion that's close enough (i.e. 10 Hz offset
difference or 2% which you'll never notice out of 560 Hz total
bandwidth) but you must set both to the same number when you set up
your KRX3 if you plan to use diversity (i.e. both either -0.85 or
-0.84).  If you didn't do this, you would hear a warble or frequency
difference when attempting to SYNC both RXs to the same VFO.  Elecraft
will eventually publish some instructions regarding 5-pole filters for
diversity, but my understanding is that the peak variation between 500
Hz filters is a maximum of 50 Hz.  My guess is that they'll simply
tell us to split the difference on the 500s and not worry about it.
If the 200 Hz has total variation of  50 Hz, then it might require
more careful matching (since 50/210 is a significant percentage of
total BW), but I've not seen any variation numbers on the 200 yet.

  73,  Bill  W4ZV
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[Elecraft] K3 Filter selection

2008-05-28 Thread Dave G4AON

Jim

I've been using 2.8 KHz and 400 Hz 8 pole filters for about 6 months and 
find they work just fine. I've not found a need for a narrower filter. 
The dynamic range of the K3 is good enough to not worry too much about 
needing a roofing filter for every occasion. I run CW, SSB and data 
modes (including RTTY). I will probably add a second receiver with those 
two filters as well, especially in view of the possible need to match 
filters for diversity reception.


No doubt if you ask 10 owners for their suggested set of filters, you 
would get 10 different answers!


73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100 #80


I keep seeing talk of the 400(435) or 500 combined with the 250(370). I see
very little talk about the 200. My thought was to use the 400 and the 200.
Maybe the decision should include the 500/200 combination. Is the 200 just
too narrow or why don't I see more apparent use of it? I know, what is my
use? I want to be able to operate most all modes except AM and FM where I
have very little interest at this time. Will the 400 cut out RTTY?

The other configuration I was considering was the 500 and the 250 but hadn't
added the filters to my order yet as I was trying to make up my mind but
comments here aren't really helping with my decision.

Thanks es 73, de Jim KG0KP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Filter selection

2008-05-28 Thread Leigh L. Klotz, Jr.
I have the 400/200 and have been happy with it for CW and digital modes, 
though I added the 1KHz for CW tuning and wide digital modes (not RTTY).

Leigh/WA5ZNU

Jim Miller wrote:

I keep seeing talk of the 400(435) or 500 combined with the 250(370).  I see
very little talk about the 200.  My thought was to use the 400 and the 200.
Maybe the decision should include the 500/200 combination.  

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[Elecraft] K3 - HAGCMDKT mod kit

2008-05-28 Thread N2TK

Went to install the HAGCMDKT kit on #311. Interesting but all was already
done except for shorting R33 and R40. Maybe there were interim fixes for
this mod?

By the way, C222 had already been changed to .1 uF for the CW Keying Rise
Time Reduction. I needed to add the RXA board to the KXV3.


N2TK, Tony
#311
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 3080 module part 1 test

2008-05-28 Thread Trevor Smithers
Hi Don, thanks for the reply.

check the green winding, it is easy to pull the leads too 
much and end up with a badly tinned lead.
Absolutely correct - that was the problem, RF gain now restored.

73
Trevor  G0KTN


 Original Message 

Trevor,

An RF Gain with severely limited range is normally an indication that 
there is something wrong with T2 - check the toroid leads for good 
tinning.  If you cannot see a bit of tinned lead on the toroid side of 
the board, it probably was not tinned close enough to the core - 
especially check the green winding, it is easy to pull the leads too 
much and end up with a badly tinned lead.

73,
Don W3FPR

Trevor Smithers wrote:
 I've just completed part 1 of the 3080 build and re-done the alignment. All 
 appears well, 
 40/20 rx working as expected.
 However I've noticed that the rf gain control (R1) appears to now have very 
 limited 
range 
 in fact it hardly seems to make any difference at all - is this because the 
 rest of the 
build 
 has yet to be completed or does it indicate a possible problem. When I did 
 the 
 resistance check of R1 I got around 900 ohms.

 73 to all
 Trevor  G0KTN 
   



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - HAGCMDKT mod kit

2008-05-28 Thread F5VJC

I installed the HW AGC mod yesterday on K3 325, it was not fitted.
I opted for the SMD components, and all went fine but I decided to use the
standard LED as I was unsure of the cathode marking on the supplied SMD LED.
This ought to be indicated on the instruction sheet I think.

Also fitted the KXV3 RXA mod. All now back together and working just fine.

Waiting for the second RX now and debating filter options.

73
Deni, F5VJC



Went to install the HAGCMDKT kit on #311. Interesting but all was already
done except for shorting R33 and R40. Maybe there were interim fixes for
this mod?

By the way, C222 had already been changed to .1 uF for the CW Keying Rise
Time Reduction. I needed to add the RXA board to the KXV3.


N2TK, Tony
#311


-
73, Deni F5VJC

K2 1188   K3  325 

For a Ham Radio friendly holiday in France...
Visit www.mycottageinbrittany.com
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/K3---HAGCMDKT-mod-kit-tp17517042p17517381.html
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 - HAGCMDKT mod kit

2008-05-28 Thread N2TK
Interesting that the mod levels of the board aren't reflected by the serial
number.  

Yes, I am waiting for the second receiver too. Going with the stock 2.7KHZ
filter for the moment as the main use I have for the second receiver is
listening to the split frequency.

73,
N2TK, Tony

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of F5VJC
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 1:01 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - HAGCMDKT mod kit


I installed the HW AGC mod yesterday on K3 325, it was not fitted.
I opted for the SMD components, and all went fine but I decided to use the
standard LED as I was unsure of the cathode marking on the supplied SMD LED.
This ought to be indicated on the instruction sheet I think.

Also fitted the KXV3 RXA mod. All now back together and working just fine.

Waiting for the second RX now and debating filter options.

73
Deni, F5VJC



Went to install the HAGCMDKT kit on #311. Interesting but all was already
done except for shorting R33 and R40. Maybe there were interim fixes for
this mod?

By the way, C222 had already been changed to .1 uF for the CW Keying Rise
Time Reduction. I needed to add the RXA board to the KXV3.


N2TK, Tony
#311


-
73, Deni F5VJC

K2 1188   K3  325 

For a Ham Radio friendly holiday in France...
Visit www.mycottageinbrittany.com
-- 
View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/K3---HAGCMDKT-mod-kit-tp17517042p17517381.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - HAGCMDKT mod kit

2008-05-28 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft

Hi Tony,

Nothing was required on your part. That is the factory version of the 
change that already has very low value SMD resistors installed for R33 
and R40.


73, Eric  WA6HHQ


N2TK wrote:

Went to install the HAGCMDKT kit on #311. Interesting but all was already
done except for shorting R33 and R40. Maybe there were interim fixes for
this mod?

By the way, C222 had already been changed to .1 uF for the CW Keying Rise
Time Reduction. I needed to add the RXA board to the KXV3.


N2TK, Tony
#311

  

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[Elecraft] FS: K3 microKeyer cable

2008-05-28 Thread WA6L


I have a cable for sale to connect your K3 to a microHAM microKeyer or
microKeyer 2.  The part number is DB37-EL-K3.

$50 shipped to any USA location.  Paypal or check/money order.  Contact me
off-list for additional details.

I will also be selling the microKeyer either separately or as part of a
deal.  Let me know if you are interested.

Thanks and 73,

John, WA6L
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

-- 
View this message in context: 
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Filter selection

2008-05-28 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Keep in mind that the working selectivity for shaving off QRM is provided
by the adjustable DSP filter in the 2nd I.F. 

The crystal filters in the K3 are actually pre-filters whose primary
function is to avoid overload from extremely strong signals. 

Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - DKSP2

2008-05-28 Thread Don Wilhelm

Robert,

Tom Hammond has scans of most of the K1 and K2 boards on his website.
Go to http://n0ss.net/elecraft_pcb_scans.htm and you will find images of 
the KDSP2 board.


I can;t help with the black contrasty schematic, but if you download the 
KDSP2 manual in .pdf format, you can enlarge the schematic and print it.


73,
Don W3FPR

Robert Clutson wrote:
I need a photo of the KDSP2 pcb both sides BEFORE  the componenets are mounted. 
I have a problem - the LED stays on and with the assembly complete the components cover the labels.


A nice black contrasty circuit diagram which can be enlarged would be helpful 
too
Robert (g0who)

  




No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.24.1/1469 - Release Date: 5/27/2008 1:25 PM
  

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[Elecraft] K3 ship status info is stale by 5 days

2008-05-28 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
Not that it hasn't been a wild ride with Dayton and allbut that
will be two weeks ago, well, today!
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Re: [Elecraft] SV: Getting Ready For The 2nd RX

2008-05-28 Thread Gary Hembree
On Wed, May 28, 2008 at 11:49 AM, Bill Tippett btippett at alum.mit.edu wrote:

Elecraft will eventually publish some instructions regarding 5-pole filters for
diversity, but my understanding is that the peak variation between 500
Hz filters is a maximum of 50 Hz.  My guess is that they'll simply
tell us to split the difference on the 500s and not worry about it.
If the 200 Hz has total variation of  50 Hz, then it might require
more careful matching (since 50/210 is a significant percentage of
total BW), but I've not seen any variation numbers on the 200 yet.

Bill,
The variation in filter offsets must be larger than you think.  My KFL3A-500 
has an offset of -0.75 kHz, which is 90-100 Hz higher than the values cited by 
Orin.  The offset of my KFL3A-200 is -0.95 kHz, which oddly enough matches the 
offset of my KFL3A-2.7K, not that it matters.
Thanks for the heads up on filter matching for diversity receiving.
73, Gary, N7IR
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Power Problem

2008-05-28 Thread Don Wilhelm

Larry,

It is difficult to judge what the output should be with the N-gen - 
there are just too many variables to draw any valid conclusions from 
that information.


I suggest that you back up a bit and align the bandpass filters in 
transmit at a power level of 1 to 2 watts.  Use the band order specified 
in the manual.


Once you have done that, check the maximum transmit power available on 
all bands.  If any bands are low AND draw excessive current, then check 
the low pass filter for that band.


Once you have good output power on all bands, then you can evaluate the 
receive knowing that the bandpass and the lowpass filters are OK.  (Do 
NOT readjust the bandpass - the transmit peaking is the final adjustment 
and if it is peaked for transmit, it will also be peaked for the receive 
condition).
I know this is a bit 'backwards' from the manual, but at the point where 
you are stuck, this is the best path forward.


73,
Don W3FPR

Larry KA0PLW wrote:



I have continuned to test, using the Elecraft N-Gen the reciever 
80M loud

40M very light
30M loud
20M slightly less than 80/30  but more than 40
18M same as 20M
15M same as 20M
12M very light
10M very light

(I have to get the parts and build the signal gen in the manual) before I
can go on with the trace. All are with in limits until I got the the LPF/BPF
 TR and Mixer IF Amp, and Crystals but I think that some decrease maybe due
to not enough signal strenght from the N-Gen.. 



-
Larry KA0PLW
K1 2530
K2 work in process
  
  

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 - HAGCMDKT mod kit

2008-05-28 Thread N2TK
Eric,
Tnx for  the info. I just measured R33 and R40 - 6.3 ohms. At this stage
does it matter whether I leave the shorts in place or should I solder these
two resistors back?

N2TK, Tony 

-Original Message-
From: Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 1:18 PM
To: N2TK
Cc: 'Elecraft Reflector'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - HAGCMDKT mod kit

Hi Tony,

Nothing was required on your part. That is the factory version of the 
change that already has very low value SMD resistors installed for R33 
and R40.

73, Eric  WA6HHQ


N2TK wrote:
 Went to install the HAGCMDKT kit on #311. Interesting but all was already
 done except for shorting R33 and R40. Maybe there were interim fixes for
 this mod?

 By the way, C222 had already been changed to .1 uF for the CW Keying Rise
 Time Reduction. I needed to add the RXA board to the KXV3.


 N2TK, Tony
 #311

   

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - HAGCMDKT mod kit

2008-05-28 Thread Tom Childers, N5GE
On Wed, 28 May 2008 13:08:35 -0400, N2TK [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Interesting that the mod levels of the board aren't reflected by the serial
number.  


[snip]

When I ordered the mod kits for my factory built unit (806) by email, they wrote
me back and said I didn't need the changes.  Apparently they DO know which
serial number factory rigs have the mods.

73,

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

Those who would give up 
Essential Liberty to 
purchase a little Temporary 
Safety deserve neither 
Liberty nor Safety 

An excerpt from a letter 
written in 1755 from the 
Assembly to the Governor 
of Pennsylvania.

Support the entire Constitution, not 
just the parts you like.

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] SV: Getting Ready For The 2nd RX

2008-05-28 Thread Bill W4ZV



Gary Hembree wrote:
 
 On Wed, May 28, 2008 at 11:49 AM, Bill Tippett btippett at alum.mit.edu
 wrote:
 
 Elecraft will eventually publish some instructions regarding 5-pole
 filters for
 diversity, but my understanding is that the peak variation between 500
 Hz filters is a maximum of 50 Hz.  My guess is that they'll simply
 tell us to split the difference on the 500s and not worry about it.
 If the 200 Hz has total variation of  50 Hz, then it might require
 more careful matching (since 50/210 is a significant percentage of
 total BW), but I've not seen any variation numbers on the 200 yet.
 
 Bill,
 The variation in filter offsets must be larger than you think.  My
 KFL3A-500 has an offset of -0.75 kHz, which is 90-100 Hz higher than the
 values cited by Orin.  The offset of my KFL3A-200 is -0.95 kHz, which
 oddly enough matches the offset of my KFL3A-2.7K, not that it matters.
 Thanks for the heads up on filter matching for diversity receiving.
 73, Gary, N7IR
 

The 50 Hz total variation I quoted for 500 Hz filters came directly from
Wayne N6KR so I'm sure Elecraft will look at this more carefully before
giving us some guidance.  In some cases it may be necessary to return or
exchange filters, but in others (like Orin's) that will probably be
unnecessary.

Note that it's not as critical that both RX filters be matched between
bandwidths (e.g. a 2.7k and 500) as within bandwidths (e.g. one 500 to the
other 500).  Also remember if you aren't planning to use diversity, it makes
no difference at all as long as you don't assign both RXs to the same VFO
frequency.

73,  Bill
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 PA and 232 problem

2008-05-28 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bob,

Other than cutting traces or removing chips, there is no easy way to 
check for such a shorted condition.


I do suspect that the MAX1406 chip (U4) is the one to remove first 
because it is the most likely culprit.  The EL5146 chip (U6) is also on 
the suspect list.


Before desoldering, remove U1 from its socket and see if the 5 volt 
output is restored to normal.


If you do not have adequate desoldering tools, I suggest that you order 
both ICs and a regulator, clip the leads on both ICs and remove the 
leads one at a time - remove the excess solder with solder wick and 
clear the hole with a round toothpick or a stainless steel needle.  The 
replacement ICs are much more inexpensive than the entire board, so it 
is prudent to just replace the ICs wholesale rather than tearing up the 
board in an attempt to preserve the suspect components.


73,
Don W3FPR

Bob G3PJT wrote:

Hi

My CAT just stopped working and I have found that there appears to be 
a low resistance on the 5v rail which supplies the PIC / 232 interface 
chips. This pulls the 5V rail down to 1 v with the result that the PIC 
and 232 interface chips are not operating and the 78L05 at U3 is 
rather hot and bothered.
Before I get the PA board off the heatsink and start desoldering chips 
has anyone any idea of checks I could do to localise the problem


73 and thanks for any info

Bob G3PJT


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Re: [Elecraft] My KX-1 do crazy things...

2008-05-28 Thread Don Wilhelm

Panos,
Can you create the same conditions when driving a dummy load?
If it happens only when using an antenna, then yes, your body may be 
acting as part of the antenna system and can cause strange behavior.


73,
Don W3FPR

Panos wrote:

Operating my KX-1 for 8 months now I was more happy I could ever dream.

 


Since I put the KXPD1 key on it and start to do crazy things:

 


1.  Some times I have output power some no or less power.
2.  It start to tune while I transmitting

 


 I figure out that maybe it is something with my body effect (now with that
key I have to hand the KX1).

 


Any ideas? Hints? Suggestions?

 


73, Panos, SV1COX
  


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Re: [Elecraft] RE: K2: 80m 17m Weak RX, no TX

2008-05-28 Thread Brian Lloyd


On May 27, 2008, at 9:28 PM, John Frerichs wrote:

Duhh!  I'm so stupid!  I remember reading in the manual that some  
caps are marked with a zero and some aren't.


 I still reversed Caps: 12/15 and 35/31.  Cap 12/15 values are  
560.  Cap 35/31 are marked 560.  Guess what I did?  Yup.  I read  
value 560 and placed MARKING 560 in its place.  Argh!  What an  
idiot I am!


 Now I have to re-reverse them, so 80/17 will work right.  Yipes!   
At least they're easy to get to!


 I'm kicking myself HARD for that idiotic blunder!


Don't feel bad about that. A couple of times the students pulled that  
one on me when we were assembling the K2. Fortunately I caught it and  
was able to rectify the problem before we went any further. This is  
why I would insist that two students work together with one stuffing  
the board and the other reading parts values. That way everything got  
looked at twice. It helped a lot but there were still errors.


Brian Lloyd
Granite Bay Montessori School  9330 Sierra College Bl
brian AT gbmontessori DOT com  Roseville, CA 95661
+1.916.367.2131 (voice)+1.791.912.8170 (fax)

PGP key ID:  12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0  CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C




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[Elecraft] CW TX FREQ.

2008-05-28 Thread py5eg
Dear folks
I operated 80 meters SOSB with the K3, only with the 2,7 filter and the 
equipment is really fb!!!
I noticed a problem on my tx frequency. Normally 100 hz upper.
I know that I made some mistake on the config, but probably some of our friends 
have already had similar problem.
Best regards
Oms PY5EG
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Re: [Elecraft] SV: Getting Ready For The 2nd RX

2008-05-28 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Now I'm curious.
When I installed my 400 Hz filter, it had no
offset info on it.  Is this normal?
73, Bob N6WG
K3 #811

- Original Message - 
From: Gary Hembree [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SV: Getting Ready For The 2nd RX


On Wed, May 28, 2008 at 11:49 AM, Bill Tippett btippett at
alum.mit.edu wrote:

Elecraft will eventually publish some instructions regarding 5-pole
filters for
diversity, but my understanding is that the peak variation between 500
Hz filters is a maximum of 50 Hz.  My guess is that they'll simply
tell us to split the difference on the 500s and not worry about it.
If the 200 Hz has total variation of  50 Hz, then it might require
more careful matching (since 50/210 is a significant percentage of
total BW), but I've not seen any variation numbers on the 200 yet.

Bill,
The variation in filter offsets must be larger than you think.  My
KFL3A-500 has an offset of -0.75 kHz, which is 90-100 Hz higher than
the values cited by Orin.  The offset of my KFL3A-200 is -0.95 kHz,
which oddly enough matches the offset of my KFL3A-2.7K, not that it
matters.
Thanks for the heads up on filter matching for diversity receiving.
73, Gary, N7IR
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Re: [Elecraft] SV: Getting Ready For The 2nd RX

2008-05-28 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft

Yes. All of the 8 pole filters have a zero offset.

Its the 5 pole filters that have varying offsets.

73, Eric  WA6HHQ
-

Bob Tellefsen wrote:

Now I'm curious.
When I installed my 400 Hz filter, it had no
offset info on it.  Is this normal?
73, Bob N6WG
K3 #811

  

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 PA and 232 problem

2008-05-28 Thread Bob G3PJT

Hi Don
I was just about to send something to the reflector. Both the 1406 and 
the 5146 had failed but I do not know why.

However the solution was :-
- find out which chip was crowbarring the 5v line. Pull the PIC - it was 
OK in my case. Cut  pin 16 on the 1406, check and resolder if OK (it was 
OK in my case) Do the same with pin 7 of the EL5146 which showed that it 
was that chip which had failed. Extract the 5146 by cutting the pins and 
clean up the board with desoldering tape. Sacrifice the chip not the 
PCB. Replace with a 8 pin socket as EL5146 is discontinued here. Use 
almost any op amp with the same pinout except for pin 8 and clip off pin 8.
- I determined which channels of the 1406 were not working using a 
prototype board type interface and then rewired the 1406 to use the 
unused 232/TTL interfaces, only the pin5/12 circuit had failed in my case

- replace the 78L05 as its not clear how much abuse it had suffered.

73 Bob G3PJT


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 PA and 232 problem

2008-05-28 Thread David Cutter

Nice work, Bob.

I've seen 78 series regulators die with over voltage but never over current 
or temperature, they have excellent protection for those.


David
G3UNA





- replace the 78L05 as its not clear how much abuse it had suffered.

73 Bob G3PJT



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 PA and 232 problem

2008-05-28 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bob,

Great work. 

The EL5146 can be ordered from Elecraft, and if it has been discontinued 
in the DIP package, the SMD equivalent will be supplied mounted on a 
carrier board to adapt it for thru-hole use.
If you have the K60XV installed in your K2, the use of a non tri-state 
op amp will interfere with the K60XV transceiver output power control.


I really don't know the cause of these failures, I just don't have 
enough information about the circumstances of operation when the failure 
takes place.  I have seen a few of them, but it is a small percentage - 
you were one of the unlucky ones.


73,
Don W3FPR

Bob G3PJT wrote:

Hi Don
I was just about to send something to the reflector. Both the 1406 and 
the 5146 had failed but I do not know why.

However the solution was :-
- find out which chip was crowbarring the 5v line. Pull the PIC - it 
was OK in my case. Cut  pin 16 on the 1406, check and resolder if OK 
(it was OK in my case) Do the same with pin 7 of the EL5146 which 
showed that it was that chip which had failed. Extract the 5146 by 
cutting the pins and clean up the board with desoldering tape. 
Sacrifice the chip not the PCB. Replace with a 8 pin socket as EL5146 
is discontinued here. Use almost any op amp with the same pinout 
except for pin 8 and clip off pin 8.
- I determined which channels of the 1406 were not working using a 
prototype board type interface and then rewired the 1406 to use the 
unused 232/TTL interfaces, only the pin5/12 circuit had failed in my case

- replace the 78L05 as its not clear how much abuse it had suffered.

73 Bob G3PJT


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Re: [Elecraft] FS: K3 microKeyer cable

2008-05-28 Thread WA6L


Sold now -- thanks!


WA6L wrote:
 
 
 I have a cable for sale to connect your K3 to a microHAM microKeyer or
 microKeyer 2.  The part number is DB37-EL-K3.
 
 $50 shipped to any USA location.  Paypal or check/money order.  Contact me
 off-list for additional details.
 
 I will also be selling the microKeyer either separately or as part of a
 deal.  Let me know if you are interested.
 
 Thanks and 73,
 
 John, WA6L
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 

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[Elecraft] K3 2nd Receiver Filter

2008-05-28 Thread Jerry Lockett
Does the 2nd receiver option for the K3 come with at least one filter,
or does one have order that additional with the 2nd receiver?

Jerry -n6jp-

--

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Filter selection

2008-05-28 Thread Arie Kleingeld PA3A
My choice:

Main RX: 2.7  / 2.1  / 500 / 200
Sub RX : 2.7  / 400


73
Arie PA3A

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 2nd Receiver Filter

2008-05-28 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF

comes with 2.7KHz as standard
--
Man is the best computer we can put aboard a spacecraft and the only one
that can be mass produced with unskilled labour.
-Wernher von Braun, rocket engineer (1912-1977)

On 28 May 2008, at 21:14, Jerry Lockett wrote:


Does the 2nd receiver option for the K3 come with at least one filter,
or does one have order that additional with the 2nd receiver?


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Re: [Elecraft] K2: A small milestone!

2008-05-28 Thread Mike K8CN


TF3KX wrote:
 
 
 Now, do you give any insights on how this was achieved?  Working contests,
 odd hours, simply lots of time on the air, using announcements of
 DXpeditions, clusters, studying propagation, etc.?
 
 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX
 
 
 

Hi Kristinn,

Although I've been a ham for 41 years, I was totally unfamiliar with QRP
until late August 2007 when I completed the K2 construction and put it on
the air.  Thus, my observations about how this small (and I do emphasize
small) achievement came about will not be great secrets revealed to those
who have practiced QRP for many years. Indeed, I have local friends with
more than 250 countries worked QRP, so this advice from a newbie is given
rather self-consciously:

(1) Location helps, and don't be afraid of contests.
The Northeast U.S. has easy access to the many countries of EU on several
bands.  I had not even thought of attempting QRP DXCC until a brief entry
into the CQ WW CW test last fall convinced me that I could work DX in QRP
mode.  I've not yet begun a thorough log analysis to see how the long
doublet helped, but my recollection is that I worked more than 50 DXCC
entities on the 20 meter attic dipole, and many of them in that single
contest.  I attribute this good fortune to location and to the skilled
contesters on the other end who worked hard to dig my signal from the
QRN/QRM.  The ARRL DX test this spring added another 20 or so entities with
just 9 hours of activity -- contests definitely are more time-efficient as a
harvesting tool!

(2) Study propagation.
I had only been casually active on the bands before completing the K2, and
my knowledge of best times/bands to reach certain parts of the world was
superficial.  I began listening more frequently with the K2, even if only
for a few minutes, at various times during the day on several bands just to
hear what might be coming in.  If a station seemed loud, I would try a call. 
Eventually I built up a sense of just how loud a DX station needed to be so
that I might have a chance to be heard there.  I didn't take advantage of
propagation prediction tools, but would have done so had I not been more
concerned with using limited hobby time for on-air listening/making QSOs.

(3) Re-arrange schedules if possible.
I didn't have a lot of on-air time available to me because of work and
family responsibilities, but I did shift those around as best I could to
take advantage of propagation patterns that became evident over time.  I
didn't consider the hours odd -- I tried to be active in the early mornings
for grey line propagation into the South Pacific, weekend mid-mornings to
EU, mid-to late afternoons for Africa and the Middle East when I could get
away early, and early evenings for whatever was still open in the
Z-0300Z interval.  Can't recall doing any really late night operation
even during contests -- those other duties still beckoned the next morning!

(4) Use DX spotting clusters off-line.
I didn't use clusters in real-time, and still don't do so.  However, I did
find them to be a tremendous help in discerning when, and on which bands, to
be on the air for particular DX regions.  I looked for reporter callsigns
from the Northeast U.S. to learn what they were working at various times of
the day and on which bands they were finding DX entities of interest to me. 
If I hoped to find a regularly active DX station from a particular region, I
would search for that callsign in the cluster archives and determine the
most probable bands and times-of-day to listen for that station.

(5) Put up more than one antenna if you have room.
Both of my antennas run North/South.  I could reliably work NZ/AU stations
on 40 meter grey line propagation, but battled to pull out a few Caribbean
stations that should have been easy pickings.  I'll be adding an East/West
oriented wire this summer!

(6) Be persistent - QRP builds character!
I say this from experience: after fighting for large portions of several
weekends over the span of nearly 3 months to put up the long doublet high
and in the clear above many overhanging tree branches, I learned a new
patience and persistence that I didn't have previously.  The same may be
said of the on-air experience -- I kept calling, refined my timing of calls
in pileups, and tried the trick of calling slightly off frequency from the
previous station who worked the entity I was chasing.  Eventually the log
filled up..

73,
Mike, K8CN


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[Elecraft] 2nd Receiver K3 Pictures?

2008-05-28 Thread paul hendershott
Hi Folks - I was wondering if there were any more detailed pictures of the 2nd 
receiver board with the RF plate removed? 
Thanks! Paul w9bbr
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[Elecraft] K3 Impressions...Locking VFO B for split ops

2008-05-28 Thread cx7tt
Many tnx to Tom, N0SS for guidance on how to setup the split ops and 
locking VFO B.

Here goes:

A  B; hold SPLIT; hold B SET; hold LOCK; hold B SET to return upper 
display to VFO A.

Now VFO A can be used as big boy RIT without bumping (moving) xmit freq.

If QRM drives you to another freq, just move VFO A to clear freq and hit 
A  B and VFO B follows while still being locked...this works if you 
even QSY to another band...pretty neat...


To return to normal ops: hold B SET, hold LOCK, B SET, hold SPLIT.

73
Tom
CX7TT
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Impressions...Locking VFO B for split ops

2008-05-28 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Yep, but that's NORMAL operation for me, a legacy of using a separate TX and
RX.

ODD operation is messing with the RIT knob. I avoid it. 

The LOCK feature is important: it's pretty easy to bump the VFO B knob. One
had to really flail about to hit the VFO knob on a transmitter in a separate
box ;-)

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
Many tnx to Tom, N0SS for guidance on how to setup the split ops and 
locking VFO B.
Here goes:

A  B; hold SPLIT; hold B SET; hold LOCK; hold B SET to return upper 
display to VFO A.
Now VFO A can be used as big boy RIT without bumping (moving) xmit freq.

If QRM drives you to another freq, just move VFO A to clear freq and hit 
A  B and VFO B follows while still being locked...this works if you 
even QSY to another band...pretty neat...

To return to normal ops: hold B SET, hold LOCK, B SET, hold SPLIT.

73
Tom
CX7TT

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[Elecraft] K3: Getting Ready For The 2nd RX

2008-05-28 Thread ORIN G. HELVEY,JR.
Thanks, Bill, for the good info. I'm learning something new from this.

73
Orin   N5ORT

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: ERR VCO Problem Activity Log Turn on problems

2008-05-28 Thread Dick Roth KA1OZ

Dick Roth KA1OZ wrote:

Greg wrote:

Try this...

Starting with the power OFF.  Turn it ON but HOLD the power button for 
about 10 seconds...till you see MCU LD on the LCD.  The LCD will not 
be lit.  This is a forced MCU load state.  No using your K3 utility 
program in advanced mode, load JUST the MCU file by putting a check 
just in that box, nothing else.  Then click on send checked items to K3.


After the MCU file loads and the radio resets, then upload the DSP1, 
FPF and DSP data table files.


Standing by
- Original Message - From: Dick Roth KA1OZ 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: ERR VCO Problem Activity Log



Greg wrote:

hahahaha... No problem Dick.  Good night.

Sounds like you may be OK now.  Start using your new rig but let us 
know if the power problem creeps back in.


73
Greg
AB7R

- Original Message - From: Dick Roth KA1OZ 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Greg [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: ERR VCO Problem Activity Log



Greg wrote:
Don made a good point.  When you assembled the power pole, did you 
make sure
when inserting the pins that you heard a distinct click?  If not, 
they may
not be completly seated.  Try pushing them in more to see if they 
click.


Greg


-Original Message-
From: Dick Roth KA1OZ [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 6:55 PM
To: Greg
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: ERR VCO Problem Activity Log


Greg wrote:
So Dick...what is it doing now?  When the VCO CAL went slowly and 
the

speeding up some toward the end is correct behavior.

Are you hearing normal signals now?  Have you done the REF CAL 
and TX Gain

CAL?

Greg


{snip}

I successfully ran the REF CAL and TX Gain last night while the radio
was in its glory.  Now if I can only turn it on and off when I want
to...(pardon the whine).

What else can I do to provide hints of the radio's health?




--
73,
Dick ka1oz
Middleborough, MA

K3/100(Kit) SN 000859
Titan-DX (to come)


I started with DC.  APP connectors are firm in their sockets and no 
wiggling causes outages.  When I installed the front panel, I was 
keenly aware from list traffic that great care had to be taken 
during this process.  I looked at each connecting point of each 
connector.  I've also given the baby therapeutic taps to see if 
anything was loose.


If you guys don't mind...its 2317 here and I rise at 0500 to pay 
the mortgage, so I'll follow up tomorrow.


ttfn 

--
73,
Dick ka1oz
Middleborough, MA

K3/100(Kit) SN 000859
Titan-DX (to come)


--
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Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.10/1421 - 
Release Date: 5/7/2008 5:23 PM






Well I still have the turn on problem.  After I read what I sent you 
last, I thought better of taking the front panel connections for 
granted, so after I got home from work tonight I removed the front 
panel and exercised the various connections and put everything back 
together.


It wouldn't turn on.  So I did some random gefinger poken and just as 
randomly the radio turned on.


Let me review what I know about this nuisance:

1. When pushing the Power button, I hear a small relay click and my 
power supply indicates that the rig is drawing about an amp.


2. However, no panel leds light and there is nothing on the LCD display.

3. No tapping, nudging, or any other therapeutic man handling of 
any parts appears to improve the situation.


4. And then with a random push of the Power button...voila, the 
radio comes to life.


5. I reloaded the firmware code a couple of times at least.  I'm 
using the KUSB adapter from Elecraft and it is running the latest 
driver from Prolific.


I don't know what else to mention, but I'm afraid to turn the rig off 
because I'm afraid I'll never be able to turn it on again!


ttfn 
--
73,
Dick ka1oz
Middleborough, MA

K3/100(Kit) SN 000859
Titan-DX (to come)


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Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.14/1425 - 
Release Date: 5/9/2008 12:38 PM








Well, I've been keeping a low profile for the past couple of days for 
fear of waking the poltergeist that kept my K3 from turning on.  As of 
two days ago the radio has turned on upon command.  I've been afraid of 
jinxing the situation, but I finally did the last of the assembling and 
calibrating.  It is now a full fledged 100w K3.  I just got notice that 
the antenna mount shipped today.  I've been using a long wire to 
retraining my hearing.  I tried loading the wire, but my xyl came 
arunnin' to tell me that I'm being received real well on the family TV, 
so I went qrt.  With any luck I'll have the vertical mounted this 
weekend or next and try again with low-pass filter installed.


Thanks for everyone's offers of help.  This is a great group to be a 
part of.


ttfn 



Well it seems 

[Elecraft] K3 - HAGCMDKT mod kit

2008-05-28 Thread David and Dianne on Comcast

Hi Everyone,

I own K3 #371 and have entirely delighted with it and the Elecraft 
experience to date.


But I do have a small nit to pick with the HACG mod and some comments 
posted earlier today.


After doing a lot of pre-modification research on my #371, I determined 
that the mod had been done, only partially, before it was shipped to 
me.  The R33 and R40 were still in place and not removed or jumpered as 
the mod instructed. They both appeared to be 1K ohm SMD resistors. 

Before proceeding further with the mod, an inquiry to K3 Support at 
Elecraft instructed me that my board only had a 'portion' of this mod 
performed and that R33 and R40 should definitely be removed or shorted. 
When I discussed my situation with several of you privately no one was 
sure why my K3 had only a portion of the mod performed before its shipping.


So away I go last weekend and proceed remove the two SMD resistors and 
replace them with jumpers per the HAGC instructions.


Now, today, I read Eric's post indicating that this was indeed a 
'factory mod' and the removal of the R33 and R40 is optional, ok either way.


Here's my issue.

In removing the SMD devices (which I undertook as suggested by first 
cutting them in half with miniature dikes to avoid the necessity of 
using too much heat to the pads on the pc board) I very briefly applied 
heat from a 20 watt iron and solderwick for a fraction of a second to 
remove the remnants of the devices.  Not only did the remnants come off 
but so did one of the solder pads from the pc board. So much for my 
introduction to SMD de-soldering.


While these boards are indeed elegant in design and construction, they 
are apparently quite fragile and do not lend themselves to ANY excesses 
in heat. Frankly I was unpleasantly surprised. 

So I had to scrape off the solder resist back along the trace and solder 
the jumper back on the trace away from the now missing pad. All's well 
and the K3 runs fine BUT my once elegant pc board now is a bit butchered 
around where R40 once resided.


Now today I read that this step in the mod was not needed to be done. I 
only wish I had known that before I started this adventure.


So should R33 and R40 be left in place or removed?  I do not understand 
how it does or does not make a difference either way.  IMO that should 
have  been addressed in the HAGC mod instructions.


Had I read today's post earlier I would never have undertaken this mod. 
I wish I had received the entire story from K3Support earlier on.


Really not a big deal but it irked me a bit.

Morale of my story is proceed very carefully in undertaking soldering on 
these boards.  They can be unforgiving.


BTW the 'CW rise time mod' was not performed on my unit. That was done 
with no problem. I used the through hole capacitor on this one.


In closing how's my K3 you ask?  IMO the finest transceiver I have ever 
used. Bar none.


73 de N1LQ-Dave



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[Elecraft] K3 Bandswitching-My experiences to Date

2008-05-28 Thread David and Dianne on Comcast

Hi Everyone,

In hanging around the K3 booth in Dayton this year (some would say I was 
'lurking' around the booth) I overheard several K3 prospective owners 
pressing Wayne on the absence of dedicated bandswitches and bandstacking 
registers.


Having been a user of Icom and Ten Tec gear for many years, I too admit 
that this was one of my reservations when first considering my K3 
purchase over a year ago.


Now after almost four months of K3 use, I wanted to past a comment 
directed at those considering a K3 who believe that this issue may be a 
deal breaker.


IMO it is not.

It takes a bit of time and study to adapt to this approach of Elecraft's 
UI, but the K3 has some remarkable and flexible alternatives.


Over the years I have never had much use for transceiver memories as 
implemented by most JA manufacturers, but he K3' approach to memories 
and their flexibility is awesome once you master them. Between general 
memories, memories assignable to the number keys and the 'within band' 
memories you can quickly replicate something very similar to dedicated 
bandswitches. One of the best tutorials on this is found on the K3 Wiki 
website. If you have not discovered it you should look it up.


Having now programed the K3's number keys as memories for a portion of 
each band and the 'within band' memories (M1-M4) to another portion of 
the same band, I have something approaching dedicated bandswitches.  It 
took a while to discover how to do this but now changing bands is second 
nature. I almost never use the K3 up and down bandswitch any more, The 
programmable memories are just that much quicker.


I had a talk with Wayne about this at Dayton. He asked if I would 
consider sharing my personal comments on the reflector. Thus my post here.


If at some time in the future when the K3 wish list has shrunken down, 
should Elecraft develop an outboard combination keypad/bandswitch along 
the lines of what Icom offered for the venerable IC-751A way back, I'm 
sure some of us would welcome it but until then I find the use of 
programmed memories for bandswitching to be just fine.


My $.02

YMMV

73 de N1LQ-Dave




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Re: Re: [Elecraft] My KX-1 do crazy things...

2008-05-28 Thread Fred Jensen

Don Wilhelm wrote:


Can you create the same conditions when driving a dummy load?
If it happens only when using an antenna, then yes, your body may be 
acting as part of the antenna system and can cause strange behavior.




I had the same problem as Panos when I was trying to operate K6DGW/MM 
with my KX1 from a cruise ship balcony on a Panama Canal trip in 2005. 
There wasn't much room for my wire antenna and it was obvious I was part 
of it ... likely the dummy part of the load :-)  I had the counterpoise 
grounded to the ship, but it was about 2.75 meters long.  I discovered 
that if I grounded the radio itself directly to the ship [fortunately, I 
had a couple of short clip leads with me and I managed to get the teeth 
of one through the paint on the rail [there is a LOT of white paint on 
ships], the problem went away.  www.foothill.net/~andreaj/Ham43.htm


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2008 Cal QSO Party  4-5 Oct 08
- www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - HAGCMDKT mod kit

2008-05-28 Thread Bill W4ZV


Hi Dave,

Dave you indeed had an unfortunate experience!

After doing a lot of pre-modification research on my #371, I determined 
that the mod had been done, only partially, before it was shipped to 
me.  The R33 and R40 were still in place and not removed or jumpered as 
the mod instructed. They both appeared to be 1K ohm SMD resistors. 

Rather than using visual inspection, I recommend everyone use a VOM to
actually measure R33 and R40.  Apparently the factory mod uses SMD resistors
with very low resistance instead of an actual short.  Most SMD resistors are
marked with 3 numbers such as 333  The first two digits are the first two
significant digits and the second is a power of 10 multiplier.  Thus 333
signifies 33 x 10^3 = 33k ohms.  I'm actually not sure what markings are on
the factory SMD shorts but they should include that in the mod instructions. 
I've sometimes seen 000 used for SMD shorts but the safest thing is to
measure them, and both R33 and R40 can be accurately measured in-circuit,
so trust your measurements.  

Here's my issue.

In removing the SMD devices (which I undertook as suggested by first 
cutting them in half with miniature dikes to avoid the necessity of 
using too much heat to the pads on the pc board) I very briefly applied 
heat from a 20 watt iron and solderwick for a fraction of a second to 
remove the remnants of the devices.  Not only did the remnants come off 
but so did one of the solder pads from the pc board. So much for my 
introduction to SMD de-soldering.

Rather than removing R33 and R40, another alternative is to simply place a
short across them.  This can be done easily by soldering a small piece of
component lead wire bent into a U across the existing resistors.

So should R33 and R40 be left in place or removed?  I do not understand 
how it does or does not make a difference either way.  IMO that should 
have  been addressed in the HAGC mod instructions.

It doesn't matter as long as they are shorted, either with a piece of wire
across the existing resistors or by replacing them with SMD resistor
shorts.  A short is a short.  I always check my work by checking with a
VOM/DMM across adjacent traces (i.e. in series with the SMD pads).

Morale of my story is proceed very carefully in undertaking soldering on 
these boards.  They can be unforgiving.

If you've never done this before, I suggest practicing with some scrap SMD
boards first.  Most of us have some old scrap SMD boards in our junk box and
this is a good way to practice your technique before touching the K3.

BTW the 'CW rise time mod' was not performed on my unit. That was done 
with no problem. I used the through hole capacitor on this one.

I wonder how you determined that since SMD capacitors are *NOT* marked?  The
only way I know is to use a capacitance meter which does give a correct
reading in-circuit.  Unmodified units use 1 uF and modified units use
0.1uF, but they look identical visually.  Again, trust your measurements and
not visual inspection.

Someone earlier mentioned the SMD LED orientation.  The correct orientation
is with the two tiny green dots toward the front of the K3 (thanks W4WFB).

Sorry you had a bad experience and I hope this helps others!

73,  Bill
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bandswitching-My experiences to Date

2008-05-28 Thread n4lq

Dave: (Another fine LQ)
I'd still prefer the ICOM/TenTec method of bandswitch but maybe once we get 
the LP-Pan and PowerSDR running full time, band changing will be 'point and 
click'. I plan to use a dedicated PC for the K3 and a separate PC for 
internet and other forms of entertainment. I know many people who have Flex 
rigs do the same. If this system works as it should, the K3 would like using 
a Flex5000 but with a cw transmitter that works as it should. The LP-PAN 
should provide even more entertainment as a separate receiver although I'm 
not sure how one will switch the tuning between the K3 and the PAN. Perhaps 
this will all come clear once we get these gadgets hooked up.

Steve Ellington
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message - 
From: David and Dianne on Comcast [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 9:04 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Bandswitching-My experiences to Date



Hi Everyone,

In hanging around the K3 booth in Dayton this year (some would say I was
'lurking' around the booth) I overheard several K3 prospective owners
pressing Wayne on the absence of dedicated bandswitches and bandstacking
registers.

Having been a user of Icom and Ten Tec gear for many years, I too admit
that this was one of my reservations when first considering my K3
purchase over a year ago.

Now after almost four months of K3 use, I wanted to past a comment
directed at those considering a K3 who believe that this issue may be a
deal breaker.

IMO it is not.

It takes a bit of time and study to adapt to this approach of Elecraft's
UI, but the K3 has some remarkable and flexible alternatives.

Over the years I have never had much use for transceiver memories as
implemented by most JA manufacturers, but he K3' approach to memories
and their flexibility is awesome once you master them. Between general
memories, memories assignable to the number keys and the 'within band'
memories you can quickly replicate something very similar to dedicated
bandswitches. One of the best tutorials on this is found on the K3 Wiki
website. If you have not discovered it you should look it up.

Having now programed the K3's number keys as memories for a portion of
each band and the 'within band' memories (M1-M4) to another portion of
the same band, I have something approaching dedicated bandswitches.  It
took a while to discover how to do this but now changing bands is second
nature. I almost never use the K3 up and down bandswitch any more, The
programmable memories are just that much quicker.

I had a talk with Wayne about this at Dayton. He asked if I would
consider sharing my personal comments on the reflector. Thus my post here.

If at some time in the future when the K3 wish list has shrunken down,
should Elecraft develop an outboard combination keypad/bandswitch along
the lines of what Icom offered for the venerable IC-751A way back, I'm
sure some of us would welcome it but until then I find the use of
programmed memories for bandswitching to be just fine.

My $.02

YMMV

73 de N1LQ-Dave




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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
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5:33 PM


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Re: [Elecraft] SV: Getting Ready For The 2nd RX

2008-05-28 Thread Alan Bloom
I have a somewhat similar philosophy.  I ordered the second receiver
without additional filters.  When/if Elecraft introduces their
variable-bandwidth CW filter I will order one to replace the 500 Hz
filter I now have in the main receiver, and put the 500 Hz filter in the
second receiver.

Al N1AL


On Wed, 2008-05-28 at 08:34, Jerry Flanders wrote:
 
 Lennart Michaëlsson wrote:
  
  
   ... and what filters do the test pilots recommend?
   Presently I have 6, 2.8, 0.4 and 0.25 kHz - all being 8 pole.
  
  
 
 I am getting only the standard 2.7 for my second 
 receiver. You can use the DSP to narrow the 
 response to whatever you need even though you 
 only have the 2.7 roofing filter installed. The 
 DSP works so well in this way on the K3 I have at 
 present that I see no reason to spend money on a 
 narrower filter to be used in an _auxiliary_ receiver.
 
 Jerry W4UK 
 


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[Elecraft] K3 Need for compressor

2008-05-28 Thread n4lq
It seems that without the compressor it is difficult to obtain full SSB 
output. I'm listening to a guy right now on 160m in QSO. He had is 
compression on and as can be expected, was picking up plenty of fan noise 
from his amplifier.  He was advised to turn off the compression. This he 
did and the fan noise went away but he complained about insufficient drive 
to his amp and his K3 was only putting out 38 watts now.
I don't have a decent peak reading wattmeter but I think weak RF output is a 
common complaint. I just wonder if Elecraft expects everyone to run some 
degree of compression? Or are we interpreting the PWR meter on the K3 
incorrectly?

Steve Ellington
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3s in WPX CW at P40L

2008-05-28 Thread hank k8dd


Ed Muns, W0YK wrote:
 
 
 10. Another issue, already on “The List”, is the inability to adjust many
 of
 the controls during transmit.  This is VERY limiting in a contest
 environment. 
 

Yes, very.  And if you press most any of the buttons while there is a CW
signal being transmitted the CW will sound really strange, the PTT delay 
goes away causing the amp relay to operate with every element.  And it
does this until the PTT goes away with the end of the memory from the PC,
or you hit the ESC key.
If I remember right, RIT and the Speed  Mic gain controls are about the 
only ones that work while transmitting.

I was very impressed with the receiver in WPX!

73HankK8DD


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bandswitching-My experiences to Date

2008-05-28 Thread W6NEK

Hi Steve,
With LP-PAN, Ham Radio Deluxe and PowerSDR, K3 rig control is indeed point 
and click  You can change bands on the K3 buy clicking on the associated 
band buttons in PowerSDR.  In addition, PowerSDR provides 3 band registers 
per band (aka Icom).  You can change modes and frequency by pointing and 
clicking in the panadapter display or you can click and drag and watch the 
K3 change frequency.  Any displayed signal in the panadapter that enters the 
green vertical column represents the selected passband of the K3 and can 
be heard on the K3 speaker.  To switch tuning from PowerSDR to the K3 
requires NO action because rig control is full duplex.  Turn the freq dial 
on the K3 and the PowerSDR panadapter display is updated in real time.  You 
can change bands, modes, etc on the K3 and PowerSDR is updated.  On top of 
all that, PowerSDR is a full featured SDR dual channel receiver.  Connect a 
set of speakers to your computer sound card and you can listen to 3 in-band 
frequencies at once (one on the K3 and two via PowerSDR).  PowerSDR also 
provides variable bandwidth, Noise Reduction, Noise Blanking and popular 
modes on it's built in SDR receiver.  If you already own a shack computer 
for logging, then the addition of LP-PAN and PowerSDR is very worthwhile. 
As you say, it's like having a Flex5000 with a K3 control panel, truly the 
best of both worlds!


LP-PAN: http://www.telepostinc.com/LP-PAN.html
PowerSDR/IF Stage: http://www.wu2x.com/sdr.html#powersdr
Ham Radio Deluxe: http://www.ham-radio-deluxe.com/

We owe a lot to the people who have created the outstanding software 
programs linked above.  Thank you Messer's Scott McClements and Simon Brown! 
And of course Larry Phipps (N8LP) for his LP-PAN hardware.  Let's see, did I 
miss somebody?  Of course, the entire team at Elecraft for designing the K3 
which has brought back the fun in my HAM radio operating!


Best 73,
Frank - W6NEK

- Original Message - 
From: n4lq [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: David and Dianne on Comcast [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 6:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bandswitching-My experiences to Date



Dave: (Another fine LQ)
I'd still prefer the ICOM/TenTec method of bandswitch but maybe once we 
get the LP-Pan and PowerSDR running full time, band changing will be 
'point and click'. I plan to use a dedicated PC for the K3 and a separate 
PC for internet and other forms of entertainment. I know many people who 
have Flex rigs do the same. If this system works as it should, the K3 
would like using a Flex5000 but with a cw transmitter that works as it 
should. The LP-PAN should provide even more entertainment as a separate 
receiver although I'm not sure how one will switch the tuning between the 
K3 and the PAN. Perhaps this will all come clear once we get these gadgets 
hooked up.

Steve Ellington


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Keying software improvement suggestion (was: Logging programs and internal keyer)

2008-05-28 Thread Carl Clawson

Thanks again to all who responded on- and off-line to this subject.

Two things I learned here: There are external keyers that provide superb
support for high performance contest software, but also, great software can
indeed produce great CW over serial or parallel ports without the extra
hardware. The lower-performing programs don’t because they use loops,
timers, or other task-dependent features to send the CW.

One of my objectives is to minimize the number of cables and boxes on my
desktop. If it could be made to work right, DTR/CTS keying would do the job.
Here are the problems, though. First, it keys your radio when the computer
reboots. This is a deal breaker for me. I’m too scatterbrained to remember
to disable it when I’m not using it. Second, there’s no feedback from the
radio to the software. When you touch a paddle or key, you want the software
to stop sending. So two improvements are needed to make this work great: 1.
An RS232 command to enable/disable DTR keying so that it’s enabled only when
your contest program is running. 2. An auto-info response that sends an
event to the computer when a key or paddle is touched. Then if we can get
the software authors to implement it, and keep the internal keyer at the
same speed as the software, I think this would work very neatly. Plug your
key into the rig, the rig into the computer, and off you go.

Thanks for listening!
Carl WS7L
K3 #486
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[Elecraft] Test

2008-05-28 Thread Hank Kohl
Only a test
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[Elecraft] K2/10: #6483 is online!

2008-05-28 Thread John Frerichs
After messing around with some 56/560 pF caps that were installed in opposite 
places I now have a fully functional K2/10 CW rig on my desk.  I'm listening to 
the wonderful sounds of CW on 20m with it.  This radio rocks!
   
  Many thanks to those that responded to my question about the 80m/17m problem. 
 They went way beyond the call of duty to help me.
   
  -- John
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[Elecraft] K3: too easy to overwrite dial memories

2008-05-28 Thread Leigh L. Klotz, Jr.
For about the 3rd or 4th time I've tapped V-M, selected a memory (on of 
the 60m spot frequencies, the only global memories I have), rotated the 
VFO dial, and then tapped V-M again and overwrote the memory with the 
current VFO setting. 

Once the 2nd RX gets out it would be nice to get some attention paid to 
the memories; channel mode, especially for 60m but probably also for 
general use (think mobile ops; another K3 owner has suggested the VFO B 
knob for this.), making it harder to overwrite, etc.


Leigh/WA5ZNU

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bandswitching-My experiences to Date

2008-05-28 Thread KM5Q
I posted this idea on May 9. I got several favorable replies and  
thanks for it. I still find it very efficient, so I offer this again.  
There is plenty more memory space left to add data bands.


-

A complete BAND SWITCHING scheme using 23 memories

I tried using the quick memories 0-9 to store band data, modes,
filters, and other parameters (Douglas Zweibel's message of March 10).
Then I thought about how most bands are split into CW and phone sub-
bands that need separate mode and filter settings. So, I took it a
step further. I offer this as a universal band management scheme.

I assigned each CW and phone band to a separate memory number,
starting with memory 10. These are selected by VFO A (with the help of
text labels). I set VFO A to the bottom of the (CW or phone) sub-band,
and VFO B to the top of that sub-band. That enables band scanning
(Manual p. 37). And of course, I set modes and filters appropriately.

I labeled each memory like this, starting with #10:

10.  160C   -- the 160m CW portion
11.  160S   -- the 160m (SSB) phone portion
12.   80 C
13.   80 S
14.   *60  1  -- on 60m, the last digit is the channel number (1-5)
15.   *60  2The *asterisk sets up channel-hop scanning
(Manual p.37)
 (not yet enabled in firmware)
... etc.,
ending with:
33. 6  S   -- the 6m phone band

Quick memories M1-M4 supplement these entries PER-BAND. For 20-10m, I
set the DX beacon frequencies to M4. M1-M3 are open for quick entries,
nets, etc.

This set-up took me about an hour, but it's good learning practice! I
now have instant reference to ALL my band boundaries, right on my K3
screen.

So, how does it play? Tap MV and the big knob becomes a super band
switch (without detents). You want speed? Duplicate just your favorite
bands onto any quick memories 0-9. Memories 10-33 remain, keeping ALL
the bands stored for you. If (when) you tap VM by mistake and
override a quick memory (!) you can find it again, with all your
settings, and transfer it back to the quick memory.

2. To hop bands with instant return to the same frequency, don't
forget the original BAND switch!

56 non-quick memories remain available. I set one for CB (11m USA
Citizen's Band) -- Why not? I can scan it to check for 10m skip. I can
use others for SWL bands or favorite broadcast stations (one on VFO A
and another on VFO B).

Now I fully enjoy the navigation capability of the K3.

Windy KM5Q
Santa Fe, NM 
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