Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Main vs. Config Menus

2009-01-28 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Yes, mine:
PF1 = B-A
PF2 = SPKR+PH (I keep phones in rear, but sometimes just listen  
without them)

There are a couple of others I use - VOX GN and ANTIVOX (I haven't  
quite got that right yet) that I'd like on PF keys, but as per  
previous posts, I want to use M1-M4 and REC buttons for KDVR3, so that  
limits me to 2 PF keys.
Still noting what I use most from CONFIG, will probably want to switch  
from RF gain to Squelch when I've built using the XV144, could find  
myself changing that quite a bit.
And still tweaking ALC, so IF we had an assignable menu, they would  
have been on it at present, but not forever.
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
-- 
Hofstadter's Law: The time and effort required to complete a project are
always more than you expect, even when you take into account  
Hofstadter's
Law.

On 28 Jan 2009, at 07:07, Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU wrote:

 Wayne n6kr wrote:
 I attempted to make a distinction between operating menu entries
 (MAIN) and configuration/test menu entries (CONFIG). It's  
 possible I didn't get this right in some cases, in hindsight. But I  
 have noticed that as the firmware and options near completion, the  
 average operator needs CONFIG menu entries less often.

 I can move menu entries around if there's a compelling reason. So  
 far I haven't seen one :)


 I kept this in mind for a few days and here's my results:
 I've been using two PF keys for MIC and SPKR settings, a suggestion  
 I read on the list here.

 PF1 (RIF) - Spkrs 1/2 (toggles nicely)
 PF2 (XIT) - Mic Sel (Front, Rear)

 Once per-mode equalization (TX/RC) is in the firmware (or even if  
 it's possible to limit it to SSB modes only) I will not need to use  
 Menu or Config in normal operation.
 Leigh/WA5ZNU
 K3#51
 K2#3121
 KX1#712



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[Elecraft] Help on understanding receiver performance

2009-01-28 Thread AD6XY

Where I live there are several amateurs with a mile and we are all members of
the same club. During club contests we all suffer splatter, my question is
to do with what level of splatter is reasonable to expect from a station a
mile away line of sight running 100W on 6m.

I can do the path loss calculations easily enough - what I am trying to
understand is the maximum level that a clean SSB signal say 10kHz or more
away can be before receiver generated IMDs become more of a problem than the
ones from the transmitter. I.e. the power input in dBm on 6m on the K3 that
will cause a noticeable increase in the IMDs - not the 3rd order ones, but
the 5th, 7th 9th 11th etc. For example, if the transmitter 5th order is x dB
down, what signal level will the receiver cope with until the receiver
generated IMDs increases x by 3 dB.

For example I seem to suffer more splatter on my K6 than the other station
does from me on their IC756/FT726/IC706 (depending who it is). That could be
their IMDs or it could be my K3 receiver being overloaded.   


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Tuning aid on digi mode

2009-01-28 Thread Julian, G4ILO



W7BRS wrote:
 
 
 Really could very much use a MENU setting that quells VFO-B from reverting 
 to anything other than decoded message when decoding is enabled.  My short 
 term memory has it's own QSB and after the other station wizzes by, if I 
 don't copy it I lose it.  I hate losing it. Maybe I already lost it.. Who 
 are you again?
 
 

Yes, since you mention it I would find that handy, too. My memory is
hopeless, if I don't write something down the instant I heard it I've
forgotten it.



 I fully appreciate the intent of the original design.  I don't wish to 
 take away the original design, just request that if so configured, the 
 decoded message remains un-changed by the apparent time-out to bring back 
 whatever the DISP writes to VFO-B.
 
 And for release MCU 4+, maybe pause, rewind and replay in text only, not 
 KDVR-style.  I don't know if Elecraft realizes how bees knees the decoder 
 widget we made for fun turns out to be.  It's cool. Make it cooler!
 
 And to nip it in the bud, I will not use a PC to 'cw-get'.  I operate the 
 K3 and just the K3.
 

Yes, I've been extremely impressed with how good the CW decoder is. I have
run it in parallel with Fldigi and I could not say one is better than the
other.

Any feature to preserve the decoded text would be useful for the RTTY and
PSK decoders too. Although I guess you don't want to use a computer, I hope
one day to be able to get the decoded text from the K3 and display it on the
PC screen in KComm. (I know the firmware updater can do that, but it isn't
possible to do that and get other info from the radio at the same time,
which a logging program needs to do.)

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack   http://www.ham-directory.com/ Ham
Directoryhttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 
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Re: [Elecraft] Mods documentation requests, please

2009-01-28 Thread Robert Naumann
I have a new K3 (s/n 2542).

How can I find out what mods and updates were included in the construction
of my radio? 

Bob W5OV

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Doug Faunt N6TQS
+1-510-655-8604
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 11:46 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Mods documentation requests, please

Hi, I've found that the mods are named inconsistently:

On the instructions, it says:
Elecraft K3 AF Stage Upgrade Instructions (LINE OUT and Speaker
Amplifier),

but on the Notes page, its called K3 AF Mod kit.

Since there's another mod called K3 AF Output Mod Kit, it's a little
confusing.

Ideally they'd have numbers to make it easier to tell them apart.

And I wonder if we can get a set of schematics made available with the
changes on them?  I'm sure the documentation exists inside Elecraft,
and it'd be good to have them available to us.

Thanks and 73, doug
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Re: [Elecraft] Mods documentation requests, please

2009-01-28 Thread David Pratt
In a recent message, Robert Naumann w...@w5ov.com wrote ...

I have a new K3 (s/n 2542).

How can I find out what mods and updates were included in the construction
of my radio?

Bob - Have a read through the various mod sheets for the K3 at
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/

Most of them will tell you how to recognise whether your K3 has them 
already.

73
-- 
David G4DMP
Leeds, England, UK
--


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Re: [Elecraft] Mods documentation requests, please

2009-01-28 Thread Bill W4ZV



Robert Naumann wrote:
 
 I have a new K3 (s/n 2542).
 
 How can I find out what mods and updates were included in the construction
 of my radio? 
 
 Bob W5OV
 

http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_app_notes.htm

73,  Bill

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[Elecraft] Ham band expansions in Norway

2009-01-28 Thread Jon K Hellan
The Norwegian FCC equivalent is going to propose some additional and expanded 
ham radio bands.

In the 160-6 m range, the changes are:

60m: 5260-5410 - not channelized.
12m: lower limit moves down to 24740.

We're also getting a 500 kHz band and a 70 MHz band.

These changes haven't taken effect yet, but hopefully Elecraft will take note, 
so that any necessary firmware
updates and mods are ready in time.

Those of you who are able to decipher Norwegian can find more info at 
http://nrrl.no/NewsArticle.asp?id=296;.
Google translate's English version is entertaining, but more or less 
comprehensible.

73
Jon LA4RT
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Re: [Elecraft] Ham band expansions in Norway

2009-01-28 Thread Darwin, Keith
12 meters?  There is a 12 meter band?  I thought ham was only 40 and 80
CW.  Oh, and 30 on contest weekends.

Wow!

- Keith N1AS -
- K3 711 - 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jon K Hellan

60m: 5260-5410 - not channelized.
12m: lower limit moves down to 24740.

73
Jon LA4RT
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Re: [Elecraft] Mods documentation requests, please

2009-01-28 Thread Robert Naumann
Thanks Bill, Dave and others.

I'll check the list, and take the top cover off (again) to see what's
included.

-Bob

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill W4ZV
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 6:09 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Mods documentation requests, please




Robert Naumann wrote:
 
 I have a new K3 (s/n 2542).
 
 How can I find out what mods and updates were included in the construction
 of my radio? 
 
 Bob W5OV
 

http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_app_notes.htm

73,  Bill

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 input voltage and TX IMD

2009-01-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jim,

You mention that the TX IMD gets worse when run at 120 watts.
The K3 is specified at 100 watts.  If you run at 120 watts, it is 
entirely possible  that the TX IMD will then not be as specified.

I don't understand why hams expect performance when a transmitter is 
pushed beyond it specifications. 

Why should I expect a transmitter specified for 100 watts to operate 
within its other specs at 120 watts?  I don't because that is 
unreasonable!  Trying to squeeze the last drop of power from a 
transmitter has long been known to create splatter and distortion 
products.  Please don't do that.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jan Erik Holm wrote:
 Rick, and others

 Just to clarify things a bit.
 First of all when I did get the bad IMD report on the
 air I was at a different QTH and used a another PS, in
 this case I do not know exactly what voltage K3 got or
 voltage drop.
 Then I did bring K3 home to a PS that had 13.9V RX and
 13.5V at TX, didn´t reflect much about this. I then started
 to measure IMD on the K3 and it didn´t look all that
 bad up to 80W but at 120W it was much worse.
 After that I started to rant about different things here
 on the reflector, did get more or less zilch help from
 Elecraft sorry to say.
 Received some good ideas from some nice people here on the
 reflector. That together with some studies of my own
 led to bias adjustment on the KPA100 and also I did
 turn up PS voltage to 14.9V at RX. Also made area of cable
 between PS and K3 much much larger, at TX I now have
 14.6V at the K3 display. My IMD measurements now looks
 very good up to 100W and at 120W only slightly slightly
 worse.
 Since I didn´t get much help from Elecraft I don´t feel I owe
 them anything but still to be fair to Elecraft it actually
 looks slightly better now compared to the known good
 FT-1000D. You can look at these analyzer pictures,
 Ft-1000D at 200W and K3 at 100W. It actually looks very
 good.
   

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 input voltage and TX IMD

2009-01-28 Thread Ian Maude
Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Jim,

 You mention that the TX IMD gets worse when run at 120 watts.
 The K3 is specified at 100 watts.  If you run at 120 watts, it is 
 entirely possible  that the TX IMD will then not be as specified.

 I don't understand why hams expect performance when a transmitter is 
 pushed beyond it specifications. 

 Why should I expect a transmitter specified for 100 watts to operate 
 within its other specs at 120 watts?  I don't because that is 
 unreasonable!  Trying to squeeze the last drop of power from a 
 transmitter has long been known to create splatter and distortion 
 products.  Please don't do that.
   
This was what I was saying in my post the other day Don.  If the rig 
does not have good IMD over 100W and Elecraft say we should not run it 
over 100W, why does the radio allow me to turn it up?  IMHO, the power 
level on SSB should stop at 100W.  It is fine probably on CW to run 120W 
but on SSB and possibly datamodes, it should stop at 100W.  It is only 
software.

73 Ian
 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Jan Erik Holm wrote:
   
 Rick, and others

 Just to clarify things a bit.
 First of all when I did get the bad IMD report on the
 air I was at a different QTH and used a another PS, in
 this case I do not know exactly what voltage K3 got or
 voltage drop.
 Then I did bring K3 home to a PS that had 13.9V RX and
 13.5V at TX, didn´t reflect much about this. I then started
 to measure IMD on the K3 and it didn´t look all that
 bad up to 80W but at 120W it was much worse.
 After that I started to rant about different things here
 on the reflector, did get more or less zilch help from
 Elecraft sorry to say.
 Received some good ideas from some nice people here on the
 reflector. That together with some studies of my own
 led to bias adjustment on the KPA100 and also I did
 turn up PS voltage to 14.9V at RX. Also made area of cable
 between PS and K3 much much larger, at TX I now have
 14.6V at the K3 display. My IMD measurements now looks
 very good up to 100W and at 120W only slightly slightly
 worse.
 Since I didn´t get much help from Elecraft I don´t feel I owe
 them anything but still to be fair to Elecraft it actually
 looks slightly better now compared to the known good
 FT-1000D. You can look at these analyzer pictures,
 Ft-1000D at 200W and K3 at 100W. It actually looks very
 good.
   

 
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-- 

Ian J Maude, G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC DX Cluster
Member RSGB, GQRP, FISTS
K2 #4044 |K3 #455
http://www.amateurradiotraining.org 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: shift granularity: suggestion

2009-01-28 Thread Ignacy

To me the current granularity with SHIFT/WIDTH  (50 Hz) is fine.  With LO/HI
it is 100Hz, which is too high for LO. Also, LO often changes from 0.00 to
0.20 in one step, and taking it to 0.10 takes an extra step. Seems like a
bug.
Ignacy 




DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
 
 Wayne said,
 We're planning to improve SHIFT granularity (etc.) in a future firmware
 release.
 
 I hope that this will be an added option in the CONFIG. menu.  I like
 it the way it is now (fast)...at least for cw.  I am really not
 looking forward to having to spin that tiny knob to move in 10hz
 steps.
 
 de Doug KR2Q
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[Elecraft] Config:Wattmeter

2009-01-28 Thread John Huffman
Using the latest 2.80 firmware, I find a problem I didn't have with 
prior versions.  It may be unrelated to the firmware change.  I have 
only been using the radio for two weeks.

TECH MD set to ON and select CONFIG: WMTR LP or HP.  The display shows a 
three digit number.  When I hold TUNE, the display changes and shows 
SWR.   The VFO A knob does nothing. 

I had set the wattmeter calibration earlier and all went as described in 
the manual.

Firmware bug??  Operator error??

73 de K1ESE
John




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Re: [Elecraft] Ham band expansions in Norway

2009-01-28 Thread AD6XY

This is good news. Especially 4m. When can I expect to work you and is there
now a market for my old 28-70MHz transverter or my XV50 conversions?

Mike

Jon K Hellan wrote:
 
 The Norwegian FCC equivalent is going to propose some additional and
 expanded ham radio bands.
 
 In the 160-6 m range, the changes are:
 
 60m: 5260-5410 - not channelized.
 12m: lower limit moves down to 24740.
 
 We're also getting a 500 kHz band and a 70 MHz band.
 
 These changes haven't taken effect yet, but hopefully Elecraft will take
 note, so that any necessary firmware
 updates and mods are ready in time.
 
 Those of you who are able to decipher Norwegian can find more info at
 http://nrrl.no/NewsArticle.asp?id=296;.
 Google translate's English version is entertaining, but more or less
 comprehensible.
 
 73
 Jon LA4RT
 ___
 
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 input voltage and TX IMD

2009-01-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
Ian,

Your comment is worthy of consideration, but OTOH, I am of the 'old 
school' - amateur radio operators traditionally have not been bound by 
power limits imposed by the firmware, and many would be quite displeased 
if it were limited in the K3.

We are supposed to share the bands as gentlemen and operate our 
equipment in such a manner as not to annoy our fellow hams.  That does 
require a knowledge of our equipment, especially its limitations.

I am fully aware that there are more and more 'appliance operators' on 
the ham bands who do not know the limits of their transmitters, and the 
only thing they seem to understand is the upper limit of the power 
knob.  There is a name for those operators - I call them LIDS.  While 
that term is usually applied to those who practice bad operating 
protocol, I choose to apply it also to those who operate their equipment 
improperly.  RTFM is a requirement to know your equipment, but then I 
was schooled as a young engineer and made to understand that is a VERY 
important task

73,
Don W3FPR

Ian Maude wrote:
 Don Wilhelm wrote:
   
 Jim,

 You mention that the TX IMD gets worse when run at 120 watts.
 The K3 is specified at 100 watts.  If you run at 120 watts, it is 
 entirely possible  that the TX IMD will then not be as specified.

 I don't understand why hams expect performance when a transmitter is 
 pushed beyond it specifications. 

 Why should I expect a transmitter specified for 100 watts to operate 
 within its other specs at 120 watts?  I don't because that is 
 unreasonable!  Trying to squeeze the last drop of power from a 
 transmitter has long been known to create splatter and distortion 
 products.  Please don't do that.
   
 
 This was what I was saying in my post the other day Don.  If the rig 
 does not have good IMD over 100W and Elecraft say we should not run it 
 over 100W, why does the radio allow me to turn it up?  IMHO, the power 
 level on SSB should stop at 100W.  It is fine probably on CW to run 120W 
 but on SSB and possibly datamodes, it should stop at 100W.  It is only 
 software.

 73 Ian
   

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Tuning aid on digi mode

2009-01-28 Thread Greg
I believe one thing that is still planned is to be able to scroll back a
certain number of characters to see what was displayed.  I don't know how
large the scroll back buffer will be or when it will make its way to the top
of the list.

73
Greg


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]on Behalf Of Julian, G4ILO
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 3:57 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Tuning aid on digi mode





W7BRS wrote:


 Really could very much use a MENU setting that quells VFO-B from reverting
 to anything other than decoded message when decoding is enabled.  My short
 term memory has it's own QSB and after the other station wizzes by, if I
 don't copy it I lose it.  I hate losing it. Maybe I already lost it.. Who
 are you again?



Yes, since you mention it I would find that handy, too. My memory is
hopeless, if I don't write something down the instant I heard it I've
forgotten it.



 I fully appreciate the intent of the original design.  I don't wish to
 take away the original design, just request that if so configured, the
 decoded message remains un-changed by the apparent time-out to bring back
 whatever the DISP writes to VFO-B.

 And for release MCU 4+, maybe pause, rewind and replay in text only, not
 KDVR-style.  I don't know if Elecraft realizes how bees knees the decoder
 widget we made for fun turns out to be.  It's cool. Make it cooler!

 And to nip it in the bud, I will not use a PC to 'cw-get'.  I operate the
 K3 and just the K3.


Yes, I've been extremely impressed with how good the CW decoder is. I have
run it in parallel with Fldigi and I could not say one is better than the
other.

Any feature to preserve the decoded text would be useful for the RTTY and
PSK decoders too. Although I guess you don't want to use a computer, I hope
one day to be able to get the decoded text from the K3 and display it on the
PC screen in KComm. (I know the firmware updater can do that, but it isn't
possible to do that and get other info from the radio at the same time,
which a logging program needs to do.)

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack   http://www.ham-directory.com/ Ham
Directoryhttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3
--
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1] - Display dead after 30m/80m install

2009-01-28 Thread David Wilburn
Ok Don.  Will do.  I have been helping him remotely.  I will get over 
there and take a look at it.  Just as a follow-up, he got his test 
readings to me.  Here they are;

Resistance Table

U1 Called for 1k
Pin 1 - .582
Pin 20 - .582
Pins 3, 4, 8, and 19 all had correct readings.


D2  D3 s1 on 1k

D2  D3 s1 off 10k

Voltage Checks U1
1 - ok
2 - 0v (S/B 5v)
3 - 2.5v (S/B 4.6v)
4 - 2.5v (S/B 4.9v)
5 - 4.14 (S/B 4.9v - this is likely close enough)
6 - 4.90 (S/B 3.4v)
7 - 12 good readings
13 - 00v (S/B 5.0v)
14 - 2.46v (S/B 00v)
15 - 20 good readings
21 - .1v (S/B 5.0v)
22 - .1v (S/B 5.0v)
23 - 28 good readings

U2
8 - 2.91v (S/B 1.32v)
14 - 1.27v (S/B 00v)

I asked John to describe where the shoulders of the U1 chip were, in 
relation to the seats in the holder.  He said the wide part of the 
pin, was seated all the way down in the socket.  I am going to try to 
get by his place to give the thing a visual, but it sounds like he has 
good solder and U1 well seated.

Dave Wilburn
NM4M

Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Dave,
 
 It sounds like U1 is not plugged in securely.  When U1 is inserted into 
 the socket, most of the narrow part of the IC pins are fully into the 
 socket.  It does take a bit of pressure to seat U1 in the machine pin 
 socket.  Make certain all the pins are started into the socket pins and 
 then apply pressure with both thumbs on the IC body, fingers under the 
 board and squeeze until the leads seat completely.
 
 If that does not cure the problems, look critically at the soldering.  
 The solder should flow out to an almost invisible edge on both the 
 solder pad and the component lead at each connection.  If there is a 
 defined edge to the solder, insufficient heat was applied during the 
 soldering process.  I am not certain why, but from the number of KX1 
 repairs that I have done, soldering problems are more common with the 
 KX1 than other Elecraft kits.  Perhaps builders are more hesitant to 
 apply sufficient heat due to the more dense component placement, but 
 somehow that does happen.  If the solder connections look more like ' 
 balls' than 'mountains' having a concave fillet, you can be certain 
 insufficient heat was used during the soldering process, and the only 
 cure is to wick away the excess solder and apply good solder using 
 sufficient heat (700 to 750 deg F).
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 David Wilburn wrote:
 I'm helping a friend troubleshoot a KX1.  Unit was fine after build. 
 Took unit apart and installed 30m/80m.  Then 3rd digit did not work on 
 display.  He re-flowed some pins on the unit (I do not know which ones 
 and he does not recall) and now the display is not functional at all.

 I started him checking through the resistance checks on page 26 of the 
   document.  Pins 1  20 of U1 has about 500 ohm on it, whether U1 is 
 installed or not.

 We have been all through the voltages with D3/D2, U8, and U9.  All the 
   regulators seem good.  Though I did caution him about running from a 
 wall wart.  His 12v seems a bit low.  Around 11.5v.

 As a result of this, the voltage on pin 4 of U1 is a bit low at 3.5v. 
   Also pin 14 is at 2.5v where it is supposed to be low.

 I find little odds and ends here that are not right, but if the 
 display is not functional I would expect bigger issues.  Some voltage 
 off on clock inputs wouldn't seem the culprit.  Also the ATU was not 
 plugged in.

 We have worked through the troubleshooting tree, problem 00,  I need 
 to review with him where he is on problem 20.  We looked through 
 problem 26.  No pins are bent on U1.  All of the voltages were good 
 except the 2 mentioned.

 I have not built a KX1, but built a K2.  My thoughts are to go through 
 the various resistance and voltage checks for the 3 build sections and 
 see if we can make any sense of it.

 Am I headed in the right direction?  Am I missing anything obvious 
 since I am not familiar with the KX1?

 I'm hoping my friend (John, K6OWD) got setup on the list today.

 Dave Wilburn
 NM4M
 K2/100 S/N 5982
 K3/100 S/N 766
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 input voltage and TX IMD

2009-01-28 Thread Bill Johnson
I thought as HAMs we would know how to operate a rig within specs and not
rely on manufacturing.  I have been an amateur for 49 years and I learned
early on that is was my responsibility to know how to operate and control my
own signals regardless of rigs.  That is why we learn theory.  We have a mic
gain control... just turn up your mic gain beyond its recommended settings
and splatter all over the band... there's no difference than operating at
120 watts for a rig that is designed to operate at 100.  (Do we buy an amp
capable of 2500 w and operate it there?  I hope not.)  Besides, what good is
it to run at 120 watts anyway?  No noticeable difference at the receiving
end.  Let me control my rig, not Elecraft. 

73,

Bill
K9YEQ
K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods


-Original Message-


 Why should I expect a transmitter specified for 100 watts to operate 
 within its other specs at 120 watts?  I don't because that is 
 unreasonable!  Trying to squeeze the last drop of power from a 
 transmitter has long been known to create splatter and distortion 
 products.  Please don't do that.
   
This was what I was saying in my post the other day Don.  If the rig 
does not have good IMD over 100W and Elecraft say we should not run it 
over 100W, why does the radio allow me to turn it up?  IMHO, the power 
level on SSB should stop at 100W.  It is fine probably on CW to run 120W 
but on SSB and possibly datamodes, it should stop at 100W.  It is only 
software.

73 Ian
 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Jan Erik Holm wrote:
   
 Rick, and others
 Then I did bring K3 home to a PS that had 13.9V RX and
 13.5V at TX, didn´t reflect much about this. I then started
 to measure IMD on the K3 and it didn´t look all that
 bad up to 80W but at 120W it was much worse.


-- 

Ian J Maude, G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC DX Cluster
Member RSGB, GQRP, FISTS
K2 #4044 |K3 #455

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 input voltage and TX IMD

2009-01-28 Thread Wes Stewart



--- On Wed, 1/28/09, Ian Maude i...@gb7mbc.net wrote:

  
 This was what I was saying in my post the other day Don. 
If the rig  does not have good IMD over 100W and Elecraft say we should not run 
it over 100W, why does the radio allow me to turn it up? 

 IMHO, the power level on SSB should stop at 100W.  It is fine probably on CW 
 to run 120W but on SSB and possibly datamodes, it should stop at 100W. 

 It is only software.
 
 73 Ian


 Precisely.


  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 input voltage and TX IMD

2009-01-28 Thread R. Kevin Stover
It's simple,

The manual says this.

Note: The K3 is capable of up to 120 W output on some bands. However, 
IMD and spurious products are specified at 100 W. This is the 
recommended maximum.

You run your rig out of spec don't complain to Elecraft about it's 
performance. Maybe that particular sentence should be in a bigger font 
and bold. Obviously it isn't getting read.

Of course that wouldn't do a thing about those folks who run their rigs 
all knobs full right.


Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Ian,
 
 Your comment is worthy of consideration, but OTOH, I am of the 'old 
 school' - amateur radio operators traditionally have not been bound by 
 power limits imposed by the firmware, and many would be quite displeased 
 if it were limited in the K3.
 
 We are supposed to share the bands as gentlemen and operate our 
 equipment in such a manner as not to annoy our fellow hams.  That does 
 require a knowledge of our equipment, especially its limitations.
 
 I am fully aware that there are more and more 'appliance operators' on 
 the ham bands who do not know the limits of their transmitters, and the 
 only thing they seem to understand is the upper limit of the power 
 knob.  There is a name for those operators - I call them LIDS.  While 
 that term is usually applied to those who practice bad operating 
 protocol, I choose to apply it also to those who operate their equipment 
 improperly.  RTFM is a requirement to know your equipment, but then I 
 was schooled as a young engineer and made to understand that is a VERY 
 important task
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR

 

-- 
R. Kevin Stover, ACØH
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 input voltage and TX IMD

2009-01-28 Thread Ian Maude
Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Ian,

 Your comment is worthy of consideration, but OTOH, I am of the 'old 
 school' - amateur radio operators traditionally have not been bound by 
 power limits imposed by the firmware, and many would be quite displeased 
 if it were limited in the K3.
   
With respect Don, it is already limited :)  It is limited to 120W.  What 
is the point of doing that if the radio should not be used at that power?
 We are supposed to share the bands as gentlemen and operate our 
 equipment in such a manner as not to annoy our fellow hams.  That does 
 require a knowledge of our equipment, especially its limitations.
   
I do not disagree with that at all, in fact I applaud it!

73 Ian

-- 

Ian J Maude, G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC DX Cluster
Member RSGB, GQRP, FISTS
K2 #4044 |K3 #455
http://www.amateurradiotraining.org 

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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1] - Display dead after 30m/80m install

2009-01-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
Dave,

Without the display operating, the voltages on U1 pins 3, 4, 5, and 21 
through 28 will not be as expected, and who knows what the 
microprocessor is trying to do under those conditions.
It is beginning to sound like a case of 'too much solder' creating 
solder bridges and covering up inadequately heated connections.  You 
might suggest that he review the soldering tutorial on the Elecraft 
Builder's Resource page and compare his solder connections to the 
figures in that document.  If there is too much solder, the only way I 
know to cure the problems is to remove it with solder wick or a 
de-soldering iron.  That task takes 2 hours or more on a KX1 if it is 
required.

73,
Don W3FPR

David Wilburn wrote:
 Ok Don.  Will do.  I have been helping him remotely.  I will get over 
 there and take a look at it.  Just as a follow-up, he got his test 
 readings to me.  Here they are;

 Resistance Table

 U1 Called for 1k
 Pin 1 - .582
 Pin 20 - .582
 Pins 3, 4, 8, and 19 all had correct readings.


 D2  D3 s1 on 1k

 D2  D3 s1 off 10k

 Voltage Checks U1
 1 - ok
 2 - 0v (S/B 5v)
 3 - 2.5v (S/B 4.6v)
 4 - 2.5v (S/B 4.9v)
 5 - 4.14 (S/B 4.9v - this is likely close enough)
 6 - 4.90 (S/B 3.4v)
 7 - 12 good readings
 13 - 00v (S/B 5.0v)
 14 - 2.46v (S/B 00v)
 15 - 20 good readings
 21 - .1v (S/B 5.0v)
 22 - .1v (S/B 5.0v)
 23 - 28 good readings

 U2
 8 - 2.91v (S/B 1.32v)
 14 - 1.27v (S/B 00v)

 I asked John to describe where the shoulders of the U1 chip were, in 
 relation to the seats in the holder.  He said the wide part of the 
 pin, was seated all the way down in the socket.  I am going to try to 
 get by his place to give the thing a visual, but it sounds like he has 
 good solder and U1 well seated.

 Dave Wilburn
 NM4M

 Don Wilhelm wrote:
   
 Dave,

 It sounds like U1 is not plugged in securely.  When U1 is inserted into 
 the socket, most of the narrow part of the IC pins are fully into the 
 socket.  It does take a bit of pressure to seat U1 in the machine pin 
 socket.  Make certain all the pins are started into the socket pins and 
 then apply pressure with both thumbs on the IC body, fingers under the 
 board and squeeze until the leads seat completely.

 If that does not cure the problems, look critically at the soldering.  
 The solder should flow out to an almost invisible edge on both the 
 solder pad and the component lead at each connection.  If there is a 
 defined edge to the solder, insufficient heat was applied during the 
 soldering process.  I am not certain why, but from the number of KX1 
 repairs that I have done, soldering problems are more common with the 
 KX1 than other Elecraft kits.  Perhaps builders are more hesitant to 
 apply sufficient heat due to the more dense component placement, but 
 somehow that does happen.  If the solder connections look more like ' 
 balls' than 'mountains' having a concave fillet, you can be certain 
 insufficient heat was used during the soldering process, and the only 
 cure is to wick away the excess solder and apply good solder using 
 sufficient heat (700 to 750 deg F).

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 David Wilburn wrote:
 
 I'm helping a friend troubleshoot a KX1.  Unit was fine after build. 
 Took unit apart and installed 30m/80m.  Then 3rd digit did not work on 
 display.  He re-flowed some pins on the unit (I do not know which ones 
 and he does not recall) and now the display is not functional at all.

 I started him checking through the resistance checks on page 26 of the 
   document.  Pins 1  20 of U1 has about 500 ohm on it, whether U1 is 
 installed or not.

 We have been all through the voltages with D3/D2, U8, and U9.  All the 
   regulators seem good.  Though I did caution him about running from a 
 wall wart.  His 12v seems a bit low.  Around 11.5v.

 As a result of this, the voltage on pin 4 of U1 is a bit low at 3.5v. 
   Also pin 14 is at 2.5v where it is supposed to be low.

 I find little odds and ends here that are not right, but if the 
 display is not functional I would expect bigger issues.  Some voltage 
 off on clock inputs wouldn't seem the culprit.  Also the ATU was not 
 plugged in.

 We have worked through the troubleshooting tree, problem 00,  I need 
 to review with him where he is on problem 20.  We looked through 
 problem 26.  No pins are bent on U1.  All of the voltages were good 
 except the 2 mentioned.

 I have not built a KX1, but built a K2.  My thoughts are to go through 
 the various resistance and voltage checks for the 3 build sections and 
 see if we can make any sense of it.

 Am I headed in the right direction?  Am I missing anything obvious 
 since I am not familiar with the KX1?

 I'm hoping my friend (John, K6OWD) got setup on the list today.

 Dave Wilburn
 NM4M
 K2/100 S/N 5982
 K3/100 S/N 766
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Re: [Elecraft] Mods documentation requests, please

2009-01-28 Thread Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604
Each of the mods has a way to find out if your radio has that mod
installed.  You can usually tell visually, but sometimes it requires
an ohmmeter.

73, doug

   From: Robert Naumann w...@w5ov.com
   Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 06:00:28 -0600

   I have a new K3 (s/n 2542).

   How can I find out what mods and updates were included in the construction
   of my radio? 

   Bob W5OV

   -Original Message-
   From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
   [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Doug Faunt N6TQS
   +1-510-655-8604
   Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 11:46 PM
   To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
   Subject: [Elecraft] Mods documentation requests, please

   Hi, I've found that the mods are named inconsistently:

   On the instructions, it says:
   Elecraft K3 AF Stage Upgrade Instructions (LINE OUT and Speaker
   Amplifier),

   but on the Notes page, its called K3 AF Mod kit.

   Since there's another mod called K3 AF Output Mod Kit, it's a little
   confusing.

   Ideally they'd have numbers to make it easier to tell them apart.

   And I wonder if we can get a set of schematics made available with the
   changes on them?  I'm sure the documentation exists inside Elecraft,
   and it'd be good to have them available to us.

   Thanks and 73, doug
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 input voltage and TX IMD

2009-01-28 Thread Bill W4ZV



Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
 
 
 You mention that the TX IMD gets worse when run at 120 watts.
 The K3 is specified at 100 watts.  If you run at 120 watts, it is 
 entirely possible  that the TX IMD will then not be as specified.
 
 I don't understand why hams expect performance when a transmitter is 
 pushed beyond it specifications.
 

Typical Citizen Band mentality (knobs fully to the right) plus some on
this list are well known QRO types (i.e. VERY big amps need more drive than
legal amps).

73,  Bill



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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 input voltage and TX IMD

2009-01-28 Thread Simon (HB9DRV)
- Original Message - 
From: Bill W4ZV btipp...@alum.mit.edu

 Typical Citizen Band mentality (knobs fully to the right) plus some on
 this list are well known QRO types (i.e. VERY big amps need more drive 
 than
 legal amps).


... a remark tossed off by Ian Gillan of Deep Purple during a concert in 
Japan: Could we have everything louder than everything else?

Probably an RTTY contester?

Simon Brown, HB9DRV
www.ham-radio-deluxe.com 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 input voltage and TX IMD

2009-01-28 Thread Paul Christensen
 With respect Don, it is already limited :)  It is limited to 120W.  What
 is the point of doing that if the radio should not be used at that power?

I can't speak for the K3 designer(s), but not all modes elevate or produce 
IM at the upper end of the output power curve.  CW is one such mode, 
although other non-IM artifacts may be possible above 100W.

There are times when driving a low-gain, GG amplifier (e.g., 3CX1200 w/ 
untuned input) when the operator wants to drive it to its maximum capability 
but in order to do so, something a bit more than 100W is required.  It's not 
worth getting into a discussion as to whether the added power increase from 
the extra drive is worth it -- but some ops want to utilize their amps to 
the fullest capability when conditions permit.

But that same op needs to understand that in IMD-generating modes like SSB, 
the K3's power needs to be throttled back to specified limits.  When running 
an amp, s/he may safely achieve 1500W in CW, but must then settle for 
something less (e.g., 1300W) in SSB mode.

Paul, W9AC 

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[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar: Feb 2009

2009-01-28 Thread Ken Newman


~
N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR
February 2009
~
80 METER FOXHUNT (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
Each Tuesday to Mar 24 
9 PM to 10:29 PM Eastern Time USA
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/
~
40 METER FOXHUNT (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
Each Thursday to March 26
9 PM to 10:29 PM Eastern Time USA
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/
~
EPC WW DX Contest (BPSK125) ... 10W LP
Jan 31, 1200z to Feb 1, 1200z
Rules: http://www.epcwwdx.srars.org/index.php/contest-rules.html
~
QRP ARCI Fireside Sprint (SSB) ...QRP Contest!
Feb 1, 2000z to 2359z
Rules: http://www.qrparci.org/
~
Adventure Radio Spartan Sprint (CW) ... QRP Contest!
EST: Feb 2, 9 PM to 11 PM (First Monday each month)
UTC: Feb 3, 0200z to 0400z 
Rules: http://arsqrp.pbwiki.com:80/Spartan+Sprints
~
Vermont QSO Party (CW/Ph/Dig)
Feb 7, z to Feb 8, 2400z
Rules: http://www.w1bd.org/
~
10-10 Int. Winter Phone QSO Party ... QRP Category
Feb 7, 0001z to Feb 8, 2359z
Rules: http://www.ten-ten.org/Forms/QSOPartyRulesRevised.pdf
~
Black Sea Cup International (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category
Feb 7, 1200z to 2400z
Rules: http://bscc.ucoz.ru/index/0-21
~
Worldwide Peace Messenger Cities (CW/SSB)... 
Feb 7, 1200z to Feb 8, 1200z
Rules: http://www.s59dcd.si/english/
~
Minnesota QSO Party (All) ... QRP Category
Feb 7, 1400z to 2359z
Rules: http://www.w0aa.org/
~
FYBO Winter QRP Field Day (CW/SSB) ... QRP Contest!
Feb 7, 1400z to 2400z
Rules: http://www.azscqrpions.org
~
AGCW Straight Key QSO Party (CW 80M) ... QRP Category
Feb 7, 1600z to  1900z
Rules: http://www.agcw.org/en/?Contests:Straight_Key_Party
~
British Columbia QSO Challenge (CW/PH/Dig) ... QRP Category
Feb 7, 1600z to Feb 8, 0359z
Rules: 
http://www.deltaamateurradio.com/BC%20QSO%20CONTEST.htm
~
New Mexico QSO Party (CW/PH/Dig) ... QRP Category
Feb 7, 1700z to Feb 8, 2350z
Rules: http://pages.swcp.com/~n5zgt/nmqsoparty/index.html
~
Delaware QSO Party (All) ... QRP Category
Feb 7, 1700z to Feb 8, 0500z
Feb 8, 1300z to Feb 9, 0100z
Rules: http://www.fsarc.org/DEQSO.html
~
MEXICO RTTY INTERNATIONAL CONTEST 
Feb 7, 1800z to Feb 8, 1759z
Rules: 
http://www.fmre.org.mx/concursos/2009/rtty/rules-rtty-2009-eng.pdf
~
SKCC Weekend Sprintathon (Straight Key CW) ... QRP Category
Feb 8, z to 2359z
Rules: http://www.skccgroup.com/sprint/wes/
~
NAQCC Straight Key/Bug Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
EST: Feb 10, 8:30 PM to 10:30 PM
UTC: Feb 11, 0130Z to 0330Z
Rules: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/contests.html
~
North American Sprint (CW) ... QRP Category
Feb 8, z to 0400z
Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/sprintrules.php 
~
Valentine Sprint (PODXS) (PSK-31) ... QRP Category
Feb 13, 2000 to Feb 16, 0200 LOCAL TIME
Rules: http://www.podxs070.com/
~
CQ WW RTTY WPX Contest ... Low Power Category
Feb 14, z to Feb 15, 2400z
Rules: http://www.cqwpxrtty.com/
~
Northern New York Section QSO Party (All)
Feb 14, z to Feb 15, 2359z
Rules: http://www.nnyara.org/
~
New Hampshire QSO Party (Ph/CW/Dig) ... QRP Category
Feb 14, 0001z to Feb 15, 0001z
Rules: http://www.w1fz.org/
~
Dutch PACC Contest (SSB/CW) ... QRP Category
Feb 14, 1200z to Feb 15, 1200z
Rules: http://pacc.veron.nl/
~
Louisiana QSO Party (Ph/CW/Dig) 
Feb 14, 1500z to Feb 15, 0300z 
Rules: http://www.qsl.net/kd5wdy/LAQSO_/laqso_.html
~
FISTS Winter Sprint (CW of course) ...QRP Category
Feb 14, 1700z to 2100z
Rules: http://www.fists.org/sprints.html

Re: [Elecraft] AC supply for KX-1

2009-01-28 Thread Bob Nielsen
I have not experienced any noise issues with mine, but possibly there  
are variations between units (not an unknown occurrence with MFJ  
equipment).  I have mainly used it on 20 meters and up so don't know  
how it might do on 160 or 80 (noise issues are often worse on the  
lower bands).

Milestone Technologies (N1FN) sells the CUP36, a similar supply which  
is popular among QRP operators http://www.mtechnologies.com/cup/.   
The web site indicates their tests showed it to be pretty clean, but  
the only review on eham.net mentions noise problems with that supply.

I searched a bit before buying my MFJ-4102 in 2004, hoping to find  
one that put out a little higher voltage so I could use it only to  
charge the internal battery in my K2 (which would avoid hash issues),  
but was unable to find a suitable supply at that time.

73,
Bob, N7XY

On Jan 27, 2009, at 10:49 PM, Sante - IK0HBN wrote:

 The comments on Eham.net are very bad, due to the noise and hash that
 PS develops (MFJ-4103).
 Hope this help.
 Sante


 At 03.33 28/01/2009, you wrote:

 On Jan 27, 2009, at 4:41 PM, dbellw...@aol.com wrote:

 I'm looking for a very small, lightweight 110/220 supply for the
 KX-1.  Suggestions?

 I have the MFJ-4103 switcher which weighs 10 oz.  I use it with my
 K2, but I'm sure it would be fine with a KX-1, as well.

 Bob, N7XY
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[Elecraft] Need Help with XG1

2009-01-28 Thread Pete Smith
I have an XG-1 Receiver Test Oscillator which I must have accidentally 
zapped with RF somehow (I don't know when) because the output resistors 
R6-8 were fried.  I replaced them, as well as R4 and R5, C4 and the 
transistor.  The slide switch in the output tests ok.

When I turn the XG-1 on, I can very faintly hear its signal, so it appears 
that the oscillator is working, but the output level is nowhere near what 
it should be. Voltage at the top of C3 is 1.23 volts.  Anyone have any 
ideas where else I could look?  Elecraft tech support was helpful but 
ultimately gave up.

73, Pete N4ZR
the World Contest Station Database is back, and updated daily
www.conteststations.com


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Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with XG1

2009-01-28 Thread Pete Smith
Thanks for the idea - I removed both D1 and D2 from the circuit - no 
improvement.  The signal is quite audible (in the 50 uv switch position, 
and barely audible in the 1 uV position, but doesn't move an S-meter that 
was formerly tested with it and registered S9.

Anyone else?  I know that if I had a scope I could measure the p-p voltage 
coming out of the oscillator, but I don't.

73, Pete N4ZR

At 11:49 AM 1/28/2009, Philip Carter wrote:
See if maybe you shorted the protection led.



--- On Wed, 1/28/09, Pete Smith n...@contesting.com wrote:

  From: Pete Smith n...@contesting.com
  Subject: [Elecraft] Need Help with XG1
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Date: Wednesday, January 28, 2009, 11:19 AM
  I have an XG-1 Receiver Test Oscillator which I must have
  accidentally
  zapped with RF somehow (I don't know when) because the
  output resistors
  R6-8 were fried.  I replaced them, as well as R4 and R5, C4
  and the
  transistor.  The slide switch in the output tests ok.
 
  When I turn the XG-1 on, I can very faintly hear its
  signal, so it appears
  that the oscillator is working, but the output level is
  nowhere near what
  it should be. Voltage at the top of C3 is 1.23 volts.
  Anyone have any
  ideas where else I could look?  Elecraft tech support was
  helpful but
  ultimately gave up.
 
  73, Pete N4ZR
  the World Contest Station Database is back, and updated
  daily
  www.conteststations.com
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 input voltage and TX IMD

2009-01-28 Thread Gil Cross
It would be interesting to check the voltage drop from the APP on the 
K3 to the cathode of D11 ( component of KPA3) when under a 100 watt load.

73 Gil   K8EAG
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Shindley 
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 11:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 input voltage and TX IMD


  A solid state linear RF PA will generate more IMD if the supply voltage sags 
on current peaks. How much distortion vs voltage change depends on the 
amplifier design and components used.

   

  Someone reported here that he increased the supply voltage a bit and noted a 
1 to 2 dB reduction in TX IMD.  He also reported a 400 mV drop in the supply at 
the back of his K3/100 during Tx.  Increasing the supply voltage but still 
having a 400mV droop and yet seeing a slight reduction in TX IMD hints at the 
sensitivity of the relationship between supply voltage and TX IMD.

   

  I measured the voltage drop at the Power Pole connector at the back of my 
K3/100 while transmitting 100W CW out on 14.350 MHz into a dummy load. I found 
a 270mV drop due to the standard length power cable from Elecraft (IR loss) and 
20mV due to the supply (Astron RM-35) load regulation capability for a total 
droop of 290mV.

   

  So on SSB voice peaks or CW at 100W there is at least a 290 mV (and some say 
400mV) drop in the supply voltage to the radio.  It may even be a bit more 
inside the rig at the PA due to connector contact resistance and trace routing 
on the PCB. The slight drop in voltage will contribute to the amount of 
distortion in the output.  Could this be the cause of the reported variations 
in measured TX IMD among rigs?

   

  Rick 

  KC0OV



--


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Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with XG1

2009-01-28 Thread David Wilburn
I don't have mine in front of me, but it is the SMA device that is on 
there that you need to replace.  It gets blown out.  I'll grab the 
docs real quick and follow-up.

Dave Wilburn
NM4M

Pete Smith wrote:
 I have an XG-1 Receiver Test Oscillator which I must have accidentally 
 zapped with RF somehow (I don't know when) because the output resistors 
 R6-8 were fried.  I replaced them, as well as R4 and R5, C4 and the 
 transistor.  The slide switch in the output tests ok.
 
 When I turn the XG-1 on, I can very faintly hear its signal, so it appears 
 that the oscillator is working, but the output level is nowhere near what 
 it should be. Voltage at the top of C3 is 1.23 volts.  Anyone have any 
 ideas where else I could look?  Elecraft tech support was helpful but 
 ultimately gave up.
 
 73, Pete N4ZR
 the World Contest Station Database is back, and updated daily
 www.conteststations.com
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with XG1

2009-01-28 Thread Joe Planisky
Have you checked for any damage to the circuit board traces?  If  
enough power was applied to fry those resistors despite D1  D2  
being in the circuit, maybe some of the traces were damaged as well.   
I would think it would be visually obvious, but maybe not.

73
--
Joe KB8AP
On Jan 28, 2009, at 8:19 AM, Pete Smith wrote:

 I have an XG-1 Receiver Test Oscillator which I must have accidentally
 zapped with RF somehow (I don't know when) because the output  
 resistors
 R6-8 were fried.  I replaced them, as well as R4 and R5, C4 and the
 transistor.  The slide switch in the output tests ok.

 When I turn the XG-1 on, I can very faintly hear its signal, so it  
 appears
 that the oscillator is working, but the output level is nowhere near  
 what
 it should be. Voltage at the top of C3 is 1.23 volts.  Anyone have any
 ideas where else I could look?  Elecraft tech support was helpful but
 ultimately gave up.

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[Elecraft] Wanted: LP-Pan

2009-01-28 Thread John Huffman
Wanted: LP-Pan

Please respond off list to hjohnc at gmail dot com

73 de K1ESE
John
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Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with XG1

2009-01-28 Thread David Wilburn
It appears I was thinking of another device.  I would first suspect Q1.

Dave Wilburn
NM4M

David Wilburn wrote:
 I don't have mine in front of me, but it is the SMA device that is on 
 there that you need to replace.  It gets blown out.  I'll grab the 
 docs real quick and follow-up.
 
 Dave Wilburn
 NM4M
 
 Pete Smith wrote:
 I have an XG-1 Receiver Test Oscillator which I must have accidentally 
 zapped with RF somehow (I don't know when) because the output resistors 
 R6-8 were fried.  I replaced them, as well as R4 and R5, C4 and the 
 transistor.  The slide switch in the output tests ok.

 When I turn the XG-1 on, I can very faintly hear its signal, so it appears 
 that the oscillator is working, but the output level is nowhere near what 
 it should be. Voltage at the top of C3 is 1.23 volts.  Anyone have any 
 ideas where else I could look?  Elecraft tech support was helpful but 
 ultimately gave up.

 73, Pete N4ZR
 the World Contest Station Database is back, and updated daily
 www.conteststations.com


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Re: [Elecraft] SHIFT pitch

2009-01-28 Thread GM0ELP

Hi Don,
Thanks for info, I have tried it and have let it do the math as you
suggested. The problem comes when you are operating in a contest and QRM
both above and below is constantly changing. Having both LO and HI CUT to
tweek during RX periods ONLY is just too restrictive and no-one I have
spoken to in the above situation uses LO and HIGH CUT for this reason. If
the primary function of NORM didn't change the roofing filter as well or
adjustment were allowed during tx then the situation would be better.
Cancelling any redundant settings of  LO and HIGH CUT in one button push
would be more easily accomplished and would become useable for contests.
Everyone I have spoken to are working around these firmware quirks by using
the harder to get at secondary feature of the NORM button to select a known
SHIFT and WIDTH setting during RX whilst simultaneously trying to type
calls. It's a hassle and detracts from the operating enjoyment of the K3 and
is why I mentioned it.

Doug GM0ELP


Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
 
 Doug,
 
 I always use the HiCut/LoCut for SSB and just forget about the NORM 
 settings.
 The center frequency will be automatically set and it is quick to turn 
 the HI knob just enough to reduce interference - the roofing filters 
 will switch in automatically as required to support the DSP bandwidth.
 
 

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/SHIFT-pitch-tp2226432p2233936.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 input voltage and TX IMD

2009-01-28 Thread Paul Christensen
 It would be interesting to check the voltage drop from the APP on the K3 
 to the cathode of D11 ( component of KPA3) when under a 100 watt load. 73 
 Gil   K8EAG

Cascading APP connectors can add up to relevant IR loss.   For example, in 
my installation, the power supply and a 55-AH gel-cell battery (back-up) are 
routed to West Mountain PowerGate.  The PowerGate feeds an 8-port APP 
manifold.  One manifold port feeds the K3.  That's 5 (count 'em) APP 
connector sets in the power supply path.

At ~ 20A, the voltage drop at the K3 is nearly one volt when using #10 AWG 
wire -- and the reason why I am now using an industrial-grade power supply 
with remote sensing terminals that makes up for the IR loss on demand.  The 
other devices on the manifold can easily withstand the variation.

Paul, W9AC

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Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with XG1

2009-01-28 Thread John
At 10:53 AM 28/01/09, you wrote:
and barely audible in the 1 uV position, but doesn't move an S-meter that
was formerly tested with it and registered S9.

Do you mean you used to get S9 with a 1uV signal? I would think the 
1uV signal would be close to the noise level.

John
k7up 

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Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with XG1

2009-01-28 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Of course, change the interconnecting cable or adapter between the XG1 and
your rig. Coincidental failures are rare, but not impossible. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Pete Smith
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 9:54 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with XG1

Thanks for the idea - I removed both D1 and D2 from the circuit - no 
improvement.  The signal is quite audible (in the 50 uv switch position, 
and barely audible in the 1 uV position, but doesn't move an S-meter that 
was formerly tested with it and registered S9.

Anyone else?  I know that if I had a scope I could measure the p-p voltage 
coming out of the oscillator, but I don't.

73, Pete N4ZR

At 11:49 AM 1/28/2009, Philip Carter wrote:
See if maybe you shorted the protection led.



--- On Wed, 1/28/09, Pete Smith n...@contesting.com wrote:

  From: Pete Smith n...@contesting.com
  Subject: [Elecraft] Need Help with XG1
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Date: Wednesday, January 28, 2009, 11:19 AM
  I have an XG-1 Receiver Test Oscillator which I must have
  accidentally
  zapped with RF somehow (I don't know when) because the
  output resistors
  R6-8 were fried.  I replaced them, as well as R4 and R5, C4
  and the
  transistor.  The slide switch in the output tests ok.
 
  When I turn the XG-1 on, I can very faintly hear its
  signal, so it appears
  that the oscillator is working, but the output level is
  nowhere near what
  it should be. Voltage at the top of C3 is 1.23 volts.
  Anyone have any
  ideas where else I could look?  Elecraft tech support was
  helpful but
  ultimately gave up.
 
  73, Pete N4ZR
  the World Contest Station Database is back, and updated
  daily
  www.conteststations.com
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with XG1

2009-01-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
Pete,

Do you have the proper voltage on Q1?  Check for 1.22 volts at the 
cathode of U2.  Also check the value of R3 and R3 with your ohmmeter.

It sounds like you have replaced everything important, but if you had 
enough RF to fry the resistors, you may have damaged the switch contacts 
at the same time.  You should be able to determine the resistance 
through the switch with your ohmmeter.  Do that for both poles, and both 
switch positions.

73,
Don W3FPR

Pete Smith wrote:
 Thanks for the idea - I removed both D1 and D2 from the circuit - no 
 improvement.  The signal is quite audible (in the 50 uv switch position, 
 and barely audible in the 1 uV position, but doesn't move an S-meter that 
 was formerly tested with it and registered S9.

 Anyone else?  I know that if I had a scope I could measure the p-p voltage 
 coming out of the oscillator, but I don't.

 73, Pete N4ZR
   

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Re: [Elecraft] AC supply for KX-1

2009-01-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
Dave,

I don't know what your intended use is, but may I be bold enough to 
suggest you use a small SLA battery and keep it topped off with a low 
current battery charger.  I know that does not conform to lightweight, 
but it certainly will provide all the power the KX1 will need, and it 
should be good clean power.

73,
Don W3FPR

dbellw...@aol.com wrote:
 I'm looking for a very small, lightweight 110/220 supply for the 
 KX-1.  Suggestions?
  
 73, Dave, W6AQ
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[Elecraft] A plug for Nifty! accessories

2009-01-28 Thread wayne burdick
Hi all,

I just purchased two items from Nifty! that are really outstanding: the 
Band Ops Guide and the DX Field Reference. Yes, you can get this info 
off the web or from various other sources. But their guides are 
compact, easy to read, and very well organized.

   http://www.niftyaccessories.com/

(Elecraft has no financial or other ties to Nifty! Accessories. I just 
like their stuff.)

73,
Wayne
N6KR

---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] K1 build Alignment and Test Part II

2009-01-28 Thread John Wiener
Just did all the resistance checks after visual inspection.

About to do DC measurements and I note BLANK LCD...it is lit but no  
error message.

Had the LCD working during Alignment and Test Part I

Where should I begin my  quest   ?

Thanks

John
AB8O
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 build Alignment and Test Part II

2009-01-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
John,

The most obvious is to begin looking critically at your soldering.  
Things that worked the last time it was tried and now do not work 
usually add up to a bad or intermittent connection.  Check the front 
panel board over carefully, and examine pin 1 of each IC, the round 
solder pad at the pin 1 location is often skipped and later found 
unsoldered.

73,
Don W3FPR

John Wiener wrote:
 Just did all the resistance checks after visual inspection.

 About to do DC measurements and I note BLANK LCD...it is lit but no  
 error message.

 Had the LCD working during Alignment and Test Part I

 Where should I begin my  quest   ?

 Thanks

 John
 AB8O
   

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[Elecraft] Antenna switching [K3]

2009-01-28 Thread Mike Scott
I put up a vertical yesterday to begin playing with diversity mode.

When I installed the sub receiver I opted to connect the Aux RF BNC
connector. Now I am not sure I made the right decision for me as I want to
be able to easily switch transmit and receive antennas. Of course then my
20M dipole and my 6 M vertical would be just sitting there unconnected and
to switch bands I have to plug new cables in. I have more antennas planned
for the future and I may try some kind of low noise receive-only antenna.

In the old days a simple antenna switch would be all I need but now I have
multiple simultaneous antennas to switch and I need to make sure I don't
transmit out of Antenna 1 into the Aux Rx port ;-)

So now I am considering building some kind of well isolated Antenna switch
matrix. I am interested in what others are doing. If I use relays, how does
one build for good cross-talk isolation between antennas? Maybe all I need
is two or three simple antenna switches.

Mike Scott - AE6WA
Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA)
K3-100 #508/ KX1  #1311


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[Elecraft] A plug for Nifty! accessories

2009-01-28 Thread Ken Kopp
Wayne has beaten me to commenting about Nifty! accessories. (:-))
Had planned to post the following anyway ... (:-)

Rose has just received several samples of Bernie's products to use
in investigating the possibility of offering a case or wallet-like 
carrier
for his publications.

They -are- nicely done!

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
  elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
  http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5 


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Re: [Elecraft] CW activation while in USB mode...

2009-01-28 Thread Lance Collister
Hi Don,

Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Lance,
 
 Getting CW+SSB to work with PTT applied is on the list, but may be 
 some time in coming.
It is encouraging to learn that the feature will eventually be available to 
those 
of us who use footswitches and/or sequencers to enable the XMIT on the K3.  I 
probably won't have a need for this feature until summer Es season anyway, so I 
am 
happy to wait on this one.
 
 Although it may not help with the current CW+SSB situation, you might 
 want to consider starting your sequencer with the K3 KEYOUT and use TX 
 INH to hold off RF until the sequencer finishes.  Doing so will allow 
 you to begin the sequence with the normal K3 outputs rather than an 
 isolated 'start sequencer' signal from a footswitch or a manual switch 
 (i.e. normal PTT or VOX to the K3 would start the sequencer, but the K3 
 would not tramsmit RF until the sequencer completes).
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
Yes, that certainly seems like another way to do it, although somewhat 
indirect. 
I think rather than rewire everything in the shack, I will keep the current 
standard sequencer setup so I can use my IC746 on 2m EME without blowing things 
up.

I look forward to the updated firmware that will permit the SSB+CW mode while 
in 
the PTT mode ;-)  MNI TNX and VY 73, Lance

 
 Lance Collister wrote:
 Hello Don,

 Thank you very much for the clarification.  I guess I just dont' have 
 that option available to me, since I use a sequencer to activate the 
 PTT line of the K3.

 Don Wilhelm wrote:
  
 Lance and all,

 I was mistaken (I was prompted to try it with CW+SSB).
 CW in SSB seems to only work using the hit the key method.  Once 
 PTT is active, it will not work at all, only the SSB inputs work.
 

 Too bad for me, I guess :-(
  
 I cannot duplicate your setup since I do not have your sequencer 
 controls here.  Are you using TX INH as well as the PTT input to the 
 K3 from your sequencer?

 73,
 Don W3FPR
 

 No, I am just using the sequencer to activate the K3 PTT after all the 
 other relays and equipment.  It might have something to do with which 
 was the grounded side of my KEY that was inserted into the KEY jack in 
 the back of the rig, but I don't know for sure about that.  I will try 
 to experiment with that when I have a chance.

 Thanks very much for your clarification.  Anyway, the K3 is working 
 properly for digital modes input in through the mic jack again now 
 that I have opted out of the SSB+CW option.

 TNX and VY 73, Lance
  
 Don Wilhelm wrote:

 Lance,

 Do you have your K3 set to PTT or VOX?  If you have it set to PTT, 
 then the PTT must be closed before keying can begin - that is true 
 whether in CW+SSB or not.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Lance Collister wrote:
  
  
 I am not sure if this is a bug or I am just doing something wrong, 
 but I selected the + option yesterday to be able to send CW while 
 in the USB mode, and plugged my external keyer into the KEY jack on 
 the back of the K3.   I tried it, but never could seem to get the 
 rig to send CW while I was in USB mode.

 However, today when I started up trying to run a 6m EME sked, I 
 found that when the PTT line was closed by my sequencer, the K3 
 started transmitting immediately and I heard a sidetone in the 
 speaker.  All while the tones from the computer also were coming 
 through to the mic input.  It was as if the rig was trying to send 
 a CW carrier at the same time as SSB or something!  I finally 
 figured out that it was nothing in the latest firmware download, 
 but that I could get things back to normal by changing the CW 
 option back to -.

 Anybody have any idea what is going on?  TNX and VY 73, Lance
 
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-- 
Lance Collister, W7GJ (ex: WN3GPL, WA3GPL, WA1JXN, WA1JXN/C6A, ZF2OC/ZF8)
P.O. Box 73
Frenchtown, MT  59834  USA
QTH: DN27UB
TEL: (406) 626-5728   URL: http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj
2m DXCC #11, 6m DXCC #815


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Re: [Elecraft] SHIFT pitch

2009-01-28 Thread Tony Fegan VE3QF
Hi Doug and Don,
This is one aspect of the K3 on SSB that I think can be improved. I 
agree that in a contest there is just not enough time to tweak the SSB 
filters for maximum intelligibility.
HI CUT without an accompanying LO CUT does not work very well to 
improve intelligability. It would help if the WIDTH control would move 
the centre frequency down/up by a fraction of the bandwidth change 
(approx. 25Hz per KHz).
I suggested some time ago that the XFIL button was not much use on SSB. 
Personal choice SSB filter settings could be saved and be recalled by 
repeated pressing of the XFIL button.
For general listening I use macros and the K3 Utility to recall any 
number of filter settings. I would rather not go to the computer to 
accomplish this.
My fingers just could not control those little knobs for filter 
adjustment (poor eyesight and insensitive fingers) so I fitted 2 larger 
knobs (3/4 in dia and 7/8 in long). They are a bit big but I no longer 
nudge the VFO knob. I would also have preferred a positive detent on the 
filter encoders.

73
Tony Fegan VE3QF
K3 #137



GM0ELP wrote:
 Hi Don,
 Thanks for info, I have tried it and have let it do the math as you
 suggested. The problem comes when you are operating in a contest and QRM
 both above and below is constantly changing. Having both LO and HI CUT to
 tweek during RX periods ONLY is just too restrictive and no-one I have
 spoken to in the above situation uses LO and HIGH CUT for this reason. If
 the primary function of NORM didn't change the roofing filter as well or
 adjustment were allowed during tx then the situation would be better.
 Cancelling any redundant settings of  LO and HIGH CUT in one button push
 would be more easily accomplished and would become useable for contests.
 Everyone I have spoken to are working around these firmware quirks by using
 the harder to get at secondary feature of the NORM button to select a known
 SHIFT and WIDTH setting during RX whilst simultaneously trying to type
 calls. It's a hassle and detracts from the operating enjoyment of the K3 and
 is why I mentioned it.
 
 Doug GM0ELP
 
 
 Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
 Doug,

 I always use the HiCut/LoCut for SSB and just forget about the NORM 
 settings.
 The center frequency will be automatically set and it is quick to turn 
 the HI knob just enough to reduce interference - the roofing filters 
 will switch in automatically as required to support the DSP bandwidth.


 

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Re: [Elecraft] SHIFT pitch

2009-01-28 Thread wayne burdick

On Jan 28, 2009, at 1:32 PM, Tony Fegan VE3QF wrote:

 I suggested some time ago that the XFIL button was not much use on SSB.
 Personal choice SSB filter settings could be saved and be recalled by
 repeated pressing of the XFIL button.

You can use the I/II floating presets if you have two crystal 
filter/DSP filter setups you prefer during contests. They were intended 
for exactly this purpose -- quickly adjusting the passband to 
accommodate changing conditions.

Just hold I/II to switch between them (adjust DSP controls as required 
for each one). These settings are saved per-mode.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 input voltage and TX IMD

2009-01-28 Thread David Cutter
Have you measured the transient response time?  Should be easy to see a 1V 
transient with a modest scope.

David
G3UNA




 It would be interesting to check the voltage drop from the APP on the K3
 to the cathode of D11 ( component of KPA3) when under a 100 watt load. 73
 Gil   K8EAG

 Cascading APP connectors can add up to relevant IR loss.   For example, in
 my installation, the power supply and a 55-AH gel-cell battery (back-up) 
 are
 routed to West Mountain PowerGate.  The PowerGate feeds an 8-port APP
 manifold.  One manifold port feeds the K3.  That's 5 (count 'em) APP
 connector sets in the power supply path.

 At ~ 20A, the voltage drop at the K3 is nearly one volt when using #10 AWG
 wire -- and the reason why I am now using an industrial-grade power supply
 with remote sensing terminals that makes up for the IR loss on demand. 
 The
 other devices on the manifold can easily withstand the variation.

 Paul, W9AC

 
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[Elecraft] FSK problem with my K3

2009-01-28 Thread n2uz
Hi all,

First of all, I prefer to use FSK instead of AFSK.  ASFK works fine.

My problem is that I have the wrong polarity coming out of my rtty
program (fldigi under linux). It is hooked up to pin 1 of the ACC 15 pin
connector. It is changing polarity fine (looking at it with my oscope.
How can I invert it in the K3?  I tried the CONFIG param FSK POL  and
that does not do it.  I read an email on the archives saying that the
config item FSK POL  does not work.  If that is the case, when will it
be fixed?
I have the latest code 2.78.

On the air I get no print from other hams.  As a test I use my K2 with
another pc to check and ASFK is fine by garbage with FSK.


Jerry, N2UZ

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Re: [Elecraft] FSK problem with my K3

2009-01-28 Thread wayne burdick
Hi Jerry,

If your program doesn't provide any way to invert the polarity, I'll 
try to get FSK POL working for you. It had fallen off the radar because 
all the applications in use had a way to do this.

tnx
Wayne
N6KR

On Jan 28, 2009, at 1:47 PM, n2uz wrote:

 Hi all,

 First of all, I prefer to use FSK instead of AFSK.  ASFK works fine.

 My problem is that I have the wrong polarity coming out of my rtty
 program (fldigi under linux). It is hooked up to pin 1 of the ACC 15 
 pin
 connector. It is changing polarity fine (looking at it with my oscope.
 How can I invert it in the K3?  I tried the CONFIG param FSK POL  and
 that does not do it.  I read an email on the archives saying that the
 config item FSK POL  does not work.  If that is the case, when will it
 be fixed?
 I have the latest code 2.78.

 On the air I get no print from other hams.  As a test I use my K2 with
 another pc to check and ASFK is fine by garbage with FSK.


 Jerry, N2UZ

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna switching [K3]

2009-01-28 Thread WILLIS COOKE
Mike, take a look at Array Solutions and see if they don't have an offering 
that either fits your needs or gives you some ideas to work with.

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ


--- On Wed, 1/28/09, Mike Scott m...@paxsen.com wrote:

 From: Mike Scott m...@paxsen.com
 Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna switching [K3]
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Wednesday, January 28, 2009, 12:30 PM
 I put up a vertical yesterday to begin playing with
 diversity mode.
 
 When I installed the sub receiver I opted to connect the
 Aux RF BNC
 connector. Now I am not sure I made the right decision for
 me as I want to
 be able to easily switch transmit and receive antennas. Of
 course then my
 20M dipole and my 6 M vertical would be just sitting there
 unconnected and
 to switch bands I have to plug new cables in. I have more
 antennas planned
 for the future and I may try some kind of low noise
 receive-only antenna.
 
 In the old days a simple antenna switch would be all I need
 but now I have
 multiple simultaneous antennas to switch and I need to make
 sure I don't
 transmit out of Antenna 1 into the Aux Rx port ;-)
 
 So now I am considering building some kind of well isolated
 Antenna switch
 matrix. I am interested in what others are doing. If I use
 relays, how does
 one build for good cross-talk isolation between antennas?
 Maybe all I need
 is two or three simple antenna switches.
 
 Mike Scott - AE6WA
 Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA)
 K3-100 #508/ KX1  #1311
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna switching [K3]

2009-01-28 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
So is a KRC2 in order?
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--  
Don‘t complain. Nobody will understand. Or care. And certainly don‘t try
to fix the situation yourself. It‘s dangerous. Leave it to a highly
untrained, unqualified, expendable professional.

On 28 Jan 2009, at 22:14, WILLIS COOKE wrote:

 Mike, take a look at Array Solutions and see if they don't have an  
 offering that either fits your needs or gives you some ideas to work  
 with.

 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
 K5EWJ


 --- On Wed, 1/28/09, Mike Scott m...@paxsen.com wrote:

 From: Mike Scott m...@paxsen.com
 Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna switching [K3]
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Wednesday, January 28, 2009, 12:30 PM
 I put up a vertical yesterday to begin playing with
 diversity mode.

 When I installed the sub receiver I opted to connect the
 Aux RF BNC
 connector. Now I am not sure I made the right decision for
 me as I want to
 be able to easily switch transmit and receive antennas. Of
 course then my
 20M dipole and my 6 M vertical would be just sitting there
 unconnected and
 to switch bands I have to plug new cables in. I have more
 antennas planned
 for the future and I may try some kind of low noise
 receive-only antenna.

 In the old days a simple antenna switch would be all I need
 but now I have
 multiple simultaneous antennas to switch and I need to make
 sure I don't
 transmit out of Antenna 1 into the Aux Rx port ;-)

 So now I am considering building some kind of well isolated
 Antenna switch
 matrix. I am interested in what others are doing. If I use
 relays, how does
 one build for good cross-talk isolation between antennas?
 Maybe all I need
 is two or three simple antenna switches.

 Mike Scott - AE6WA
 Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA)
 K3-100 #508/ KX1  #1311

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Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with XG1

2009-01-28 Thread Missouri Guy
I have an XG-1 Receiver Test Oscillator which I must have accidentally 
zapped with RF somehow (I don't know when) because the output resistors 
R6-8 were fried.  I replaced them, as well as R4 and R5, C4 and the 
transistor.  The slide switch in the output tests ok.

When I turn the XG-1 on, I can very faintly hear its signal, so it
appears 
that the oscillator is working, but the output level is nowhere near what

it should be. Voltage at the top of C3 is 1.23 volts.  Anyone have any 
ideas where else I could look?  Elecraft tech support was helpful but 
ultimately gave up.

Pete, try replacing D1 and/or D2.  One or both is
probably shorted.

73,
Charlie, N0TT___
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Re: [Elecraft] A plug for Nifty! accessories

2009-01-28 Thread Craig D. Smith
I wish you would stop doing stuff like this Wayne.  I just visited their
site and ended up ordering 5 items  ;)

  73
   Craig  AC0DS


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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna switching [K3]

2009-01-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
Mike,

Relays are the answer IMHO.
Take a look at the A Low-Cost Remote Antenna Switch by Bill Smith 
KO4NR in QST April 2005.
ARRL measured the isolation at 60 dB except for the two innermost ports 
which were 50 dB at 28 MHz.

FAR circuits has boards for this project.

I built 3 for switching my many HF antennas down to 3 runs of coax into 
the shack (not all the ports are used, I have only 12 HF antennas to switch.

As for preventing transmit out of one K3 antenna port into your Aux Rx 
port, rotary control switches will likely help since a simple rotary 
switch will only activate one relay of any set.   If you have more than 
one set of remote relays and you connect any one antenna to 2 or more of 
the remote switches, then you could transmit back into the receiver, so 
connect any one antenna to only one relay port and make all the other 
arrangements with switches to the relay coils.

Yes, when I get around to completing the complete system, the KRC2 will 
control the selection from the K3 automatically - the ACC outputs select 
between 3 sets of antennas.

73,
Don W3FPR

Mike Scott wrote:
 I put up a vertical yesterday to begin playing with diversity mode.

 When I installed the sub receiver I opted to connect the Aux RF BNC
 connector. Now I am not sure I made the right decision for me as I want to
 be able to easily switch transmit and receive antennas. Of course then my
 20M dipole and my 6 M vertical would be just sitting there unconnected and
 to switch bands I have to plug new cables in. I have more antennas planned
 for the future and I may try some kind of low noise receive-only antenna.

 In the old days a simple antenna switch would be all I need but now I have
 multiple simultaneous antennas to switch and I need to make sure I don't
 transmit out of Antenna 1 into the Aux Rx port ;-)

 So now I am considering building some kind of well isolated Antenna switch
 matrix. I am interested in what others are doing. If I use relays, how does
 one build for good cross-talk isolation between antennas? Maybe all I need
 is two or three simple antenna switches.

 Mike Scott - AE6WA
 Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA)
 K3-100 #508/ KX1  #1311


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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
 Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.15/1921 - Release Date: 1/28/2009 
 6:37 AM

   
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Re: [Elecraft] SHIFT pitch

2009-01-28 Thread Bill Johnson
This is what I do on SSB.  Works great here.


73,

Bill
K9YEQ
K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods


On Jan 28, 2009, at 1:32 PM, Tony Fegan VE3QF wrote:

 I suggested some time ago that the XFIL button was not much use on SSB.
 Personal choice SSB filter settings could be saved and be recalled by
 repeated pressing of the XFIL button.

..
Just hold I/II to switch between them (adjust DSP controls as required 
for each one). These settings are saved per-mode.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] A plug for Nifty! accessories

2009-01-28 Thread Barbara Maloney
What about the Nifty K3 operating manual?   Anyone use it who 
can comment or recommend?   Might be handy for portable operation.
Mike, AC5P

--- On Wed, 1/28/09, wayne burdick n...@elecraft.com wrote:

From: wayne burdick n...@elecraft.com
Subject: [Elecraft] A plug for Nifty! accessories
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Wednesday, January 28, 2009, 1:52 PM

Hi all,

I just purchased two items from Nifty! that are really outstanding: the 
Band Ops Guide and the DX Field Reference. Yes, you can get this info 
off the web or from various other sources. But their guides are 
compact, easy to read, and very well organized.

   http://www.niftyaccessories.com/

(Elecraft has no financial or other ties to Nifty! Accessories. I just 
like their stuff.)

73,
Wayne
N6KR

---

http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Ham band expansions in Norway

2009-01-28 Thread Johnny Siu
Hello Group,
 
This is also a possibility of 70Mhz in Hong Kong.  I am looking forward to a 
conversion kit for turning XV50 into XV70.
 
cheers,
 
Johnny Siu VR2XMC

--- 2009年1月28日 星期三,AD6XY m.j.wil...@rl.ac.uk 寫道﹕

寄件人: AD6XY m.j.wil...@rl.ac.uk
主題: Re: [Elecraft] Ham band expansions in Norway
收件人: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
日期: 2009 1 28 星期三 下午 9:41

This is good news. Especially 4m. When can I expect to work you and is there
now a market for my old 28-70MHz transverter or my XV50 conversions?

Mike

Jon K Hellan wrote:
 
 The Norwegian FCC equivalent is going to propose some additional and
 expanded ham radio bands.
 
 In the 160-6 m range, the changes are:
 
 60m: 5260-5410 - not channelized.
 12m: lower limit moves down to 24740.
 
 We're also getting a 500 kHz band and a 70 MHz band.
 
 These changes haven't taken effect yet, but hopefully Elecraft will
take
 note, so that any necessary firmware
 updates and mods are ready in time.
 
 Those of you who are able to decipher Norwegian can find more info at
 http://nrrl.no/NewsArticle.asp?id=296;.
 Google translate's English version is entertaining, but more or less
 comprehensible.
 
 73
 Jon LA4RT
 ___
 
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 input voltage and TX IMD

2009-01-28 Thread Nick-WA5BDU
I did my own little unscientific IMD check yesterday.  I connected the 
K3 to my Cantenna and monitored with my IC-706IIg on the same desk and 
same power supply.  I used a bit of wire in the 706's antenna terminal 
sufficient to give an S9 or higher received signal strength.  Had the K3 
at 100 watts and mic gain to hit 100W on peaks.  Then tuned up and down 
from my signal several kHz each way on the 706 listening for splatter as 
I transmitted.  Didn't hear any, unless it was faint.  Of course, I hear 
my signal changing in pitch and diminishing in strength as I moved the 
receiver away, but I hope I know what that sounds like.

I did this on 40 meters and 15 meters, and with CMP on and off.  I did 
it again at 50 and 80 watts and didn't notice any difference.  Also 
checked at 13.8V and 14.5V supply voltage and didn't notice a difference.

I checked my voltage drop on the K3's internal meter.  From receive to 
100 watts CW key down, I got 0.7 VDC drop.  I note that the MFJ switcher 
provided 0.19V of that.  Today I soldered my crimped lugs at the P/S end 
and noticed no difference when I did the measurement check again.

73-Nick, WA5BDU



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[Elecraft] Upgrade question

2009-01-28 Thread Jim Giercyk
Hello all,I've been out of the loop for a while, but I am looking to fire up the soldering iron and digging in again. My K2, #1998, was one of the earlier kits. It is a revision A. Right now it has the 160 board, internal battery and NB options, but it is strictly CW.I want to get the rig back 'up to snuff' and do whatever mods need to be done to make it current. I plan to add the SSB module, and eventually ditch the battery and add the amp, but for now, what are the critical drop-dead mods I need to do so that I am starting on a level playing field? I sold my big-rig last year and so the K2 is my one-and-only.I also noticed that there is a lot of documentation on soldering, but none on desoldering. Any good ideas would be appreciated since I see a lopt of that in my future. Thanks guys and gals,Jim___
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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question

2009-01-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jim,

Download the A to B instructions from the Elecraft website and look at 
the list of mods included with that document - then download the 
instructions for each of those mods.  Then you can compare those mods 
with your physical K2 to see if any have already been installed.  Order 
the mod kits required and the K2ATOBKT.  That will bring your K2 up to date.

On de-soldering, if you have a desoldering iron such as the Hakko 808, 
then use it to remove components.  If you lack de-soldering equipment, 
the best way to remove components is to clip off the leads (in some 
cases it is necessary to destroy the component - use pliers to crush 
it), and then remove the leads one at a time.  Clean the holes with 
solder wick, and if solder remains in the hole, it may be cleared while 
heated with a toothpick or a stainless steel needle.  By all means, 
preserve the board, it is more valuable than any one component.

73,
Don W3FPR



Jim Giercyk wrote:
 Hello all,

 I've been out of the loop for a while, but I am looking to fire up the 
 soldering iron and digging in again.  My K2, #1998, was one of the 
 earlier kits.  It is a revision A.  Right now it has the 160 board, 
 internal battery and NB options, but it is strictly CW.

 I want to get the rig back 'up to snuff' and do whatever mods need to 
 be done to make it current.  I plan to add the SSB module, and 
 eventually ditch the battery and add the amp, but for now, what are 
 the critical drop-dead mods I need to do so that I am starting on a 
 level playing field?  I sold my big-rig last year and so the K2 is my 
 one-and-only.

 I also noticed that there is a lot of documentation on soldering, but 
 none on desoldering.  Any good ideas would be appreciated since I see 
 a lopt of that in my future.  Thanks guys and gals,

 Jim
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question

2009-01-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jim,

I forgot to mention - for all K2s with serial numbers less than 2560, 
replace the IF crystals too - the filter will improve dramatically.  A 
set of 7 matched crystals is only $10 from Elecraft and if the KSB2 is 
installed, a set of 14 matched crystals is only $15.  There is no need 
to match the KSB2 crystals to that used in the K2 IF filter, 2 matched 
sets of 7 crystals will work nicely too (if you purchase a KSB2 option, 
you will receive a matched set of 7 crystals with the kit.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jim Giercyk wrote:
 Hello all,

 I've been out of the loop for a while, but I am looking to fire up the 
 soldering iron and digging in again.  My K2, #1998, was one of the 
 earlier kits.  It is a revision A.  Right now it has the 160 board, 
 internal battery and NB options, but it is strictly CW.

 I want to get the rig back 'up to snuff' and do whatever mods need to 
 be done to make it current.  I plan to add the SSB module, and 
 eventually ditch the battery and add the amp, but for now, what are 
 the critical drop-dead mods I need to do so that I am starting on a 
 level playing field?  I sold my big-rig last year and so the K2 is my 
 one-and-only.

 I also noticed that there is a lot of documentation on soldering, but 
 none on desoldering.  Any good ideas would be appreciated since I see 
 a lopt of that in my future.  Thanks guys and gals,

 Jim
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Request for NR and NTCH inside AGC loop

2009-01-28 Thread W7TEA

I've found that adjusting AGC THR makes quite a difference.  I normally have
THR at 4 but when I need the NR, I adjust THR to 6 or even 7.  I set NR at
2-1 or 2-2.  With this setting, I normally do not have to turn AF gain up.  

73,  Gary W7TEA




I am not the first one writing that NTCH is outside the AGC loop and that NR
reduces the signal strength. With NR, less on strong signals but much on
weak signals. For example, signals that are buried in noise seem to be
brought to life with NR 3-3 but the AF gain needs to be all the way up, or
more.
Ignacy   


John Lemay wrote:
 
 Ignacy
 
 Maybe your rig has a problem. NR does not affect the signal strength at
 all.
 It does however reduce the audio level, depending on how aggressive the
 setting is.
 
 Regards
 
 John G4ZTR
 
 

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[Elecraft] K3 and PSK

2009-01-28 Thread Ron W3ZV
Setting up my K3 for PSK31. Using PC with on board sound. (Intel 
Integrated Audio). Stereo cable from K3 to sound card.  I am looking to 
adjust  ALC for 4 bars using the line in adjustment. I find that a level 
change of one unit on K3 (i.e. 5 to 6) changes ALC from zero bars 
showing to 5 bars showing. Adjusting sound card levels move the onset 
point but doesn't change the behavior. Am I missing something or do I 
have something wrong with my setup?

Ron W3ZV


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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question

2009-01-28 Thread Guy Olinger, K2AV
I did all the A to B upgrades and other mods on my K2 #1239, including the 
matched crystals, and then added the KDSP2.  What a difference.

It is a 10W version and I keep a battery in it, so I added the KIO2 to talk 
to the computer and the key line mod for amp keying for contesting use. I 
can drive my pair of 4X150's with it for 400-500 watts QRO if I want.

It took a while to work through it, and getting the xtal and dsp skirts to 
match on CW took some getting used to, but when I got it all done, the work 
turned the K2 into a red-hot box.

I did a 160 contest QRP with it and the RX was never overloaded. The first 
two CW dsp and xtal filter settings are set to give me a 400 and a 250 Hz 
resultant. Skirts keep going straight down out of my measurement 
capabilities.

Yes, you can run on 160 using QRP. Going up the band to the land of ugly SWR 
is not a problem, just use the auto-tune.  Then again, maybe it's the mojo 
that makes the run.

I  carry the K2 out to an antenna, use the KAT2 to match it at the feed and 
it tells me what it used to do it. That has been ever so handy.  Never gets 
fooled by close BC stations.  Have used it with a 2m rubber duckie to sniff 
out an HF feedline break.

73, Guy K2AV
K2/K3 #1239

- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: j...@giercyk.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question


 Jim,

 I forgot to mention - for all K2s with serial numbers less than 2560,
 replace the IF crystals too - the filter will improve dramatically.  A
 set of 7 matched crystals is only $10 from Elecraft and if the KSB2 is
 installed, a set of 14 matched crystals is only $15.  There is no need
 to match the KSB2 crystals to that used in the K2 IF filter, 2 matched
 sets of 7 crystals will work nicely too (if you purchase a KSB2 option,
 you will receive a matched set of 7 crystals with the kit.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Jim Giercyk wrote:
 Hello all,

 I've been out of the loop for a while, but I am looking to fire up the
 soldering iron and digging in again.  My K2, #1998, was one of the
 earlier kits.  It is a revision A.  Right now it has the 160 board,
 internal battery and NB options, but it is strictly CW.

 I want to get the rig back 'up to snuff' and do whatever mods need to
 be done to make it current.  I plan to add the SSB module, and
 eventually ditch the battery and add the amp, but for now, what are
 the critical drop-dead mods I need to do so that I am starting on a
 level playing field?  I sold my big-rig last year and so the K2 is my
 one-and-only.

 I also noticed that there is a lot of documentation on soldering, but
 none on desoldering.  Any good ideas would be appreciated since I see
 a lopt of that in my future.  Thanks guys and gals,

 Jim
 

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 Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
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 1/28/2009 6:37 AM


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Re: [Elecraft] FSK problem with my K3

2009-01-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jerry,

I just looked at the fldigi files on the web, and it appears that fldigi 
does not do FSK, but all its RTTY operation is in AFSK.  If that is the 
case, you will need to connect the soundcard to the line in and line out 
connectors on the K3 rather than connecting to the ACC connector pin 1.
See http://www.w1hkj.com/FldigiHelp/RTTYFSK.html for the source of my 
information it states that All of the modem signals that fldigi 
produces are audio signals.

If you have implemented the circuit shown in 
http://www.w1hkj.com/FldigiHelp/PseudoFSK.html to produce Pseudo FSK, it 
does state that you may have to invert the sense of the keying signal.  
A second 2N stage like the one shown should accomplish the inversion.

73,
Don W3FPR

n2uz wrote:
 Hi all,

 First of all, I prefer to use FSK instead of AFSK.  ASFK works fine.

 My problem is that I have the wrong polarity coming out of my rtty
 program (fldigi under linux). It is hooked up to pin 1 of the ACC 15 pin
 connector. It is changing polarity fine (looking at it with my oscope.
 How can I invert it in the K3?  I tried the CONFIG param FSK POL  and
 that does not do it.  I read an email on the archives saying that the
 config item FSK POL  does not work.  If that is the case, when will it
 be fixed?
 I have the latest code 2.78.

 On the air I get no print from other hams.  As a test I use my K2 with
 another pc to check and ASFK is fine by garbage with FSK.


 Jerry, N2UZ

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and PSK

2009-01-28 Thread Lyle Johnson
 Setting up my K3 for PSK31. Using PC with on board sound. (Intel 
 Integrated Audio). Stereo cable from K3 to sound card.  I am looking to 
 adjust  ALC for 4 bars using the line in adjustment. I find that a level 
 change of one unit on K3 (i.e. 5 to 6) changes ALC from zero bars 
 showing to 5 bars showing. Adjusting sound card levels move the onset 
 point but doesn't change the behavior. Am I missing something or do I 
 have something wrong with my setup?

5 bars is OK.  The adjustment is a bit coarse - and the display a bit 
tight! - for some combinations of sound card levels.

73,

Lyle KK7P
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and PSK

2009-01-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
Ron,

I would suggest that you reduce the soundcard output level and increase 
the K3 line in setting for smoother control of the audio level.  I run 
my K3 line in at 12 to 13 and adjust the soundcard level to achieve the 
proper number of ALC bars (4) - my soundcard controls are at the 
mid-point when it is adjusted correctly.
I am using an internal SoundBlaster Live 24 soundcard. Your results may 
depend on your particular soundcard as well as the K3 settings.

73,
Don W3FPR

Ron W3ZV wrote:
 Setting up my K3 for PSK31. Using PC with on board sound. (Intel 
 Integrated Audio). Stereo cable from K3 to sound card.  I am looking to 
 adjust  ALC for 4 bars using the line in adjustment. I find that a level 
 change of one unit on K3 (i.e. 5 to 6) changes ALC from zero bars 
 showing to 5 bars showing. Adjusting sound card levels move the onset 
 point but doesn't change the behavior. Am I missing something or do I 
 have something wrong with my setup?

 Ron W3ZV
   

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 input voltage and TX IMD

2009-01-28 Thread Alan Bloom
If they do that (limit SSB power to 100W) they really should vary the
limit based on power supply voltage.  For example, the K3 is specified
down to 11V, but you can't get 100W at that voltage.  If you try you'll
get horrible distortion.  It's up to the operator to be aware of these
limitations and set the power accordingly.

I think Elecraft's philsophy is to assume the operator is competent and
not to limit any capabilities unnecessarily.

Al N1AL


On Wed, 2009-01-28 at 06:25, Ian Maude wrote:
 Don Wilhelm wrote:
  Ian,
 
  Your comment is worthy of consideration, but OTOH, I am of the 'old 
  school' - amateur radio operators traditionally have not been bound by 
  power limits imposed by the firmware, and many would be quite displeased 
  if it were limited in the K3.

 With respect Don, it is already limited :)  It is limited to 120W.  What 
 is the point of doing that if the radio should not be used at that power?
  We are supposed to share the bands as gentlemen and operate our 
  equipment in such a manner as not to annoy our fellow hams.  That does 
  require a knowledge of our equipment, especially its limitations.

 I do not disagree with that at all, in fact I applaud it!
 
 73 Ian

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[Elecraft] K3/100 power supply voltage and current [was: K3/100 input voltage and TX IMD]

2009-01-28 Thread Alan Bloom
On Tue, 2009-01-27 at 21:15, als...@nc.rr.com wrote:
...
 Interesting thing is the current draw at each power level was 
 not what I expected.  I expected the higher voltage to lower 
 the current at each power level.  It did but a miniscule amount.  
 At 10 watts the difference was 0.03 amps.  At 100 watts the 
 difference was 0.02 amps.   I expected a lot more.
   
 The endpoint voltage for the long cable was 12.7 V. 
 For the short cable is was 13.9 volts.  I kind of expected 
 the 100 watt amperage to decrease as the ratio of these two 
 voltages.  Doing the math, the expected current draw would 
 have been 1.6 amps versu the 20 milliamps.  
 
 Can someone explain this anomoly?
 Brian/K3KO

Interesting.

I believe the power supply voltage affects the maximum possible power
but has very little effect on the current at any given power level.

It makes sense if you think about it.  Because there is a fixed
impedance transformation ratio between the PA transistors and the
antenna, the current in the transistors tends to be directly
proportional to the current in the antenna.

In a tube-type amplifier with a PI matching network, you can re-adjust
the impedance matching for maximum efficiency.  So for the same power
level, higher PS voltage results in lower current.

Al N1AL


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[Elecraft] 10w K2 external keying line?

2009-01-28 Thread Sam Morgan
Is there a mod for an external keying line from a stock K2 QRP 10 w version?
I found a number of links but they refered to moding a K2 for the KPA100 in an 
external box. I want to add a keying line for a different amp other than the 
KPA100.
-- 
GB  73
KA5OAI
Sam Morgan
Linux, the lifetime learning experience.
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Re: [Elecraft] AC supply for KX-1

2009-01-28 Thread djmd

I have to second this idea - dollar for dollar you aren't going to get any
cleaner power than a little battery. I use a 7.2ah battery for my KX1, which
I can bring outside, bring on the trail, or use anywhere in the house...
will last nearly forever. Even a small 3ah would last a heck of a long time,
and would also be useful for other radios/projects. I use a battery tender
plus, but I'm sure you could get a cheaper charger to do the job.



Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
 
 Dave,
 
 I don't know what your intended use is, but may I be bold enough to 
 suggest you use a small SLA battery and keep it topped off with a low 
 current battery charger. 

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/AC-supply-for-KX-1-tp2229341p2236876.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] 10w K2 external keying line?

2009-01-28 Thread Don Wilhelm
Sam,

Look at www.n0ss.net to find your answer.  Tom has (or had) a kit to do 
exactly that task.

73,
Don W3FPR

Sam Morgan wrote:
 Is there a mod for an external keying line from a stock K2 QRP 10 w version?
 I found a number of links but they refered to moding a K2 for the KPA100 in 
 an 
 external box. I want to add a keying line for a different amp other than the 
 KPA100.
   
 


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[Elecraft] K2 PTT Problem

2009-01-28 Thread Arthur Lewis
I have a K2/100 on the bench that seems to operate well on receive, but will 
not go into tune. Relays do not engage. I did not build this unit, but it seems 
to be built reasonably well. I have not worked on a K2 in about four years. 
Think I am out of practice. Hi Hi

How do I do a master reset and where would I find a list of all the Menu 
functions both 1 and 2? The PA is on, but perhaps there is something else I am 
missing. I do hear the relay engage at about 15 watts when I turn the power 
setting up.

  Thanks
   Art
 WA8VSJ

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 PTT Problem

2009-01-28 Thread Mark Bayern
 How do I do a master reset and where would I find a list of all the Menu

Sounds like you need to read the manual. Electronic copies can be
obtained from the Elecraft website.

Be careful with that master reset. It should have no effect on any PTT
problems, but it will loose all the filter settings. Look at it this
way -- a master reset will return the radio to factory defaults. But
this radio did not leave the factory in a working condition! g

Mark  AD5SS
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Re: [Elecraft] FSK problem with my K3

2009-01-28 Thread wayne burdick
I've already completed the FSK POL menu entry, too, in case that is  
needed. I've sent it to a few testers.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Jan 28, 2009, at 7:01 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

 Jerry,

 I just looked at the fldigi files on the web, and it appears that  
 fldigi
 does not do FSK, but all its RTTY operation is in AFSK.  If that is the
 case, you will need to connect the soundcard to the line in and line  
 out
 connectors on the K3 rather than connecting to the ACC connector pin 1.
 See http://www.w1hkj.com/FldigiHelp/RTTYFSK.html for the source of my
 information it states that All of the modem signals that fldigi
 produces are audio signals.

 If you have implemented the circuit shown in
 http://www.w1hkj.com/FldigiHelp/PseudoFSK.html to produce Pseudo FSK,  
 it
 does state that you may have to invert the sense of the keying signal.
 A second 2N stage like the one shown should accomplish the  
 inversion.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 n2uz wrote:
 Hi all,

 First of all, I prefer to use FSK instead of AFSK.  ASFK works fine.

 My problem is that I have the wrong polarity coming out of my rtty
 program (fldigi under linux). It is hooked up to pin 1 of the ACC 15  
 pin
 connector. It is changing polarity fine (looking at it with my oscope.
 How can I invert it in the K3?  I tried the CONFIG param FSK POL  and
 that does not do it.  I read an email on the archives saying that the
 config item FSK POL  does not work.  If that is the case, when will it
 be fixed?
 I have the latest code 2.78.

 On the air I get no print from other hams.  As a test I use my K2 with
 another pc to check and ASFK is fine by garbage with FSK.


 Jerry, N2UZ

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 -- 
 --


 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
 Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.15/1921 - Release Date:  
 1/28/2009 6:37 AM


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