Re: [Elecraft] A plug for Nifty! accessories

2009-01-29 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF

It's great
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--
There is no limit to what you can accomplish if you don't care who
gets the credit. --Ronald Reagan

On 29 Jan 2009, at 00:17, Barbara Maloney wrote:


What about the Nifty K3 operating manual?   Anyone use it who
can comment or recommend?   Might be handy for portable operation.
Mike, AC5P


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Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with XG1

2009-01-29 Thread Pete Smith
Thanks Don.  Unfortunately, all those variables test OK.  I've gotta fix my 
old scope!

I think that voltage must be an indication that the transistor oscillator 
is at least drawing the right amount of current through R9.  I'm going back 
to recheck all my work on the default output attenuator.  Must be something 
there, particularly since the additional stage of attenuation when I switch 
in the 1 Uv position seems to be working properly.

73, Pete

At 02:30 PM 1/28/2009, Don wrote:
Pete,

Do you have the proper voltage on Q1?  Check for 1.22 volts at the cathode 
of U2.  Also check the value of R3 and R3 with your ohmmeter.

It sounds like you have replaced everything important, but if you had 
enough RF to fry the resistors, you may have damaged the switch contacts 
at the same time.  You should be able to determine the resistance through 
the switch with your ohmmeter.  Do that for both poles, and both switch 
positions.

73,
Don W3FPR

Pete Smith wrote:
Thanks for the idea - I removed both D1 and D2 from the circuit - no 
improvement.  The signal is quite audible (in the 50 uv switch position, 
and barely audible in the 1 uV position, but doesn't move an S-meter that 
was formerly tested with it and registered S9.

Anyone else?  I know that if I had a scope I could measure the p-p 
voltage coming out of the oscillator, but I don't.

73, Pete N4ZR


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Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with XG1

2009-01-29 Thread Pete Smith
No, sorry - I meant that in the 50uv position it generated an S9 
reading.  In the 1 UV position it was easily audible, but no S meter 
deflection at all.

73, Pete

At 01:41 PM 1/28/2009, John wrote:
At 10:53 AM 28/01/09, you wrote:
 and barely audible in the 1 uV position, but doesn't move an S-meter that
 was formerly tested with it and registered S9.

Do you mean you used to get S9 with a 1uV signal? I would think the
1uV signal would be close to the noise level.

John
k7up

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Re: [Elecraft] Request for NR and NTCH inside AGC loop

2009-01-29 Thread Ignacy

It reminds me of methods to receive weak signals with other radios. Adjust
crystal filters for a single peak, reduce RF gain, play with ATT K3
makes these steps unnecessary. 

All what K3 needs for NR (and NTCH) is to put them inside the AGC loop, like
for instance in IC7000.

NR at level 1 or 2 does not reduce the signal strength too much but also
does not bring signals out of the mud.

Ignacy

 


I've found that adjusting AGC THR makes quite a difference.  I normally have
THR at 4 but when I need the NR, I adjust THR to 6 or even 7.  I set NR at
2-1 or 2-2.  With this setting, I normally do not have to turn AF gain up.  

73,  Gary W7TEA




Ignacy wrote:
 
 I am not the first one writing that NTCH is outside the AGC loop and that
 NR reduces the signal strength. With NR, less on strong signals but much
 on weak signals. For example, signals that are buried in noise seem to be
 brought to life with NR 3-3 but the AF gain needs to be all the way up, or
 more.
 Ignacy   
 
 
 John Lemay wrote:
 
 Ignacy
 
 Maybe your rig has a problem. NR does not affect the signal strength at
 all.
 It does however reduce the audio level, depending on how aggressive the
 setting is.
 
 Regards
 
 John G4ZTR
 
 
 
 

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Request-for-NR-and-NTCH-inside-AGC-loop-tp2160153p2239028.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question

2009-01-29 Thread Jim Giercyk
Thanks guys!  I purchased all of the updates from A to B.  It looks like there 
are some substantial improvements, and I can't wait to get it up and running 
again to hear what the new and improved rig sounds like.  I also bought a new 
set of XTALs, but I am dreading taking the old ones out.  Any tips on removing 
them without damaging the board?  Since they are up against the board it's 
impossible to cut the leads, and since the xtal basically acts as a heat sink, 
I'm thinking it would take a lot of heat to get it out.  Thanks again,

Jim
N2SUB



--- olin...@bellsouth.net wrote:

From: Guy Olinger, K2AV olin...@bellsouth.net
To: d...@w3fpr.com,   j...@giercyk.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 21:58:21 -0500

I did all the A to B upgrades and other mods on my K2 #1239, including the 
matched crystals, and then added the KDSP2.  What a difference.

It is a 10W version and I keep a battery in it, so I added the KIO2 to talk 
to the computer and the key line mod for amp keying for contesting use. I 
can drive my pair of 4X150's with it for 400-500 watts QRO if I want.

It took a while to work through it, and getting the xtal and dsp skirts to 
match on CW took some getting used to, but when I got it all done, the work 
turned the K2 into a red-hot box.

I did a 160 contest QRP with it and the RX was never overloaded. The first 
two CW dsp and xtal filter settings are set to give me a 400 and a 250 Hz 
resultant. Skirts keep going straight down out of my measurement 
capabilities.

Yes, you can run on 160 using QRP. Going up the band to the land of ugly SWR 
is not a problem, just use the auto-tune.  Then again, maybe it's the mojo 
that makes the run.

I  carry the K2 out to an antenna, use the KAT2 to match it at the feed and 
it tells me what it used to do it. That has been ever so handy.  Never gets 
fooled by close BC stations.  Have used it with a 2m rubber duckie to sniff 
out an HF feedline break.

73, Guy K2AV
K2/K3 #1239

- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: j...@giercyk.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question


 Jim,

 I forgot to mention - for all K2s with serial numbers less than 2560,
 replace the IF crystals too - the filter will improve dramatically.  A
 set of 7 matched crystals is only $10 from Elecraft and if the KSB2 is
 installed, a set of 14 matched crystals is only $15.  There is no need
 to match the KSB2 crystals to that used in the K2 IF filter, 2 matched
 sets of 7 crystals will work nicely too (if you purchase a KSB2 option,
 you will receive a matched set of 7 crystals with the kit.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Jim Giercyk wrote:
 Hello all,

 I've been out of the loop for a while, but I am looking to fire up the
 soldering iron and digging in again.  My K2, #1998, was one of the
 earlier kits.  It is a revision A.  Right now it has the 160 board,
 internal battery and NB options, but it is strictly CW.

 I want to get the rig back 'up to snuff' and do whatever mods need to
 be done to make it current.  I plan to add the SSB module, and
 eventually ditch the battery and add the amp, but for now, what are
 the critical drop-dead mods I need to do so that I am starting on a
 level playing field?  I sold my big-rig last year and so the K2 is my
 one-and-only.

 I also noticed that there is a lot of documentation on soldering, but
 none on desoldering.  Any good ideas would be appreciated since I see
 a lopt of that in my future.  Thanks guys and gals,

 Jim
 

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[Elecraft] FSK-D/sub-rx

2009-01-29 Thread Brian Alsop
Anybody out there successfully configure the SUB-RX for HI tones (2125Hz 
mark)in FSK-D?

I can't seem to do it.  A-B all doesn't work.  BSET apparently doesn't 
recognize the pitch control used to set this.

Spectrogram clearly shows low tone audio being output.

Firmware 2.8x being used here.  Other lower versions didn't work either.

73 de Brian/K3KO
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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question

2009-01-29 Thread John R. Lonigro
Jim:
I don't think that should be a problem.  The crystal has only 2 leads, 
so if you can pull it a little while heating up one of the leads, the 
end you are heating will break loose.  Do the same with the other lead 
and it should come out painlessly.  Then clean up the holes in the PCB.  
You probably won't even damage the old crystals.  If you want to remove 
a component with more than 2 leads, then it gets trickier because the 
multiple leads that aren't being heated are enough to hold the component 
in place.  That's when it's usually best to destroy the component and 
remove the leads one at a time.  Not so with a crystal (or other 2 lead 
components).

Good luck and 73's,
John AA0VE

 Jim Giercyk wrote:
 Thanks guys!  I purchased all of the updates from A to B.  It looks like 
 there are some substantial improvements, and I can't wait to get it up and 
 running again to hear what the new and improved rig sounds like.  I also 
 bought a new set of XTALs, but I am dreading taking the old ones out.  Any 
 tips on removing them without damaging the board?  Since they are up against 
 the board it's impossible to cut the leads, and since the xtal basically acts 
 as a heat sink, I'm thinking it would take a lot of heat to get it out.  
 Thanks again,

 Jim
 N2SUB


   
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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question

2009-01-29 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jim,

To remove the crystals, first clip off the ground lead.  Then most 
likely you can heat one of the pins while putting a bit of pressure 
against the side of the crystal.  As soon as you feel it move, heat the 
other pin and repeat.  It will get easier after 2 or 3 passes, and you 
can get the crystal out one lead at a time.

Alternately, if you have 2 soldering irons, you can heat both pins at 
once.  The leads are not connected to the case, so the case will not act 
as a big heat sink.

Be gentle so you do not damage the board.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jim Giercyk wrote:
 Thanks guys!  I purchased all of the updates from A to B.  It looks like 
 there are some substantial improvements, and I can't wait to get it up and 
 running again to hear what the new and improved rig sounds like.  I also 
 bought a new set of XTALs, but I am dreading taking the old ones out.  Any 
 tips on removing them without damaging the board?  Since they are up against 
 the board it's impossible to cut the leads, and since the xtal basically acts 
 as a heat sink, I'm thinking it would take a lot of heat to get it out.  
 Thanks again,

 Jim
 N2SUB


   

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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question

2009-01-29 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Jim,

I've had good results using a GC Electronics Solder Popper (part #  
12-2157).  It's a 30W soldering iron with a built-in spring loaded  
solder sucker.  While it's certainly not equal to something like a  
Hakko 808, it's adequate for occasional use.  And at less than $40,  
it's about 1/4 the cost.

Note, however, that it seems to run hotter than a normal iron, so you  
have to be careful not to linger on PC board connections. It would be  
a good idea to try it on some junk PC boards to get a feel for it  
before using it on your K2.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jan 29, 2009, at 6:41 AM, Jim Giercyk wrote:

 Thanks guys!  I purchased all of the updates from A to B.  It looks  
 like there are some substantial improvements, and I can't wait to  
 get it up and running again to hear what the new and improved rig  
 sounds like.  I also bought a new set of XTALs, but I am dreading  
 taking the old ones out.  Any tips on removing them without damaging  
 the board?  Since they are up against the board it's impossible to  
 cut the leads, and since the xtal basically acts as a heat sink, I'm  
 thinking it would take a lot of heat to get it out.  Thanks again,

 Jim
 N2SUB



 --- olin...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 From: Guy Olinger, K2AV olin...@bellsouth.net
 To: d...@w3fpr.com, j...@giercyk.com
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question
 Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 21:58:21 -0500

 I did all the A to B upgrades and other mods on my K2 #1239,  
 including the
 matched crystals, and then added the KDSP2.  What a difference.

 It is a 10W version and I keep a battery in it, so I added the KIO2  
 to talk
 to the computer and the key line mod for amp keying for contesting  
 use. I
 can drive my pair of 4X150's with it for 400-500 watts QRO if I want.

 It took a while to work through it, and getting the xtal and dsp  
 skirts to
 match on CW took some getting used to, but when I got it all done,  
 the work
 turned the K2 into a red-hot box.

 I did a 160 contest QRP with it and the RX was never overloaded. The  
 first
 two CW dsp and xtal filter settings are set to give me a 400 and a  
 250 Hz
 resultant. Skirts keep going straight down out of my measurement
 capabilities.

 Yes, you can run on 160 using QRP. Going up the band to the land of  
 ugly SWR
 is not a problem, just use the auto-tune.  Then again, maybe it's  
 the mojo
 that makes the run.

 I  carry the K2 out to an antenna, use the KAT2 to match it at the  
 feed and
 it tells me what it used to do it. That has been ever so handy.   
 Never gets
 fooled by close BC stations.  Have used it with a 2m rubber duckie  
 to sniff
 out an HF feedline break.

 73, Guy K2AV
 K2/K3 #1239

 - Original Message -
 From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
 To: j...@giercyk.com
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 8:15 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question


 Jim,

 I forgot to mention - for all K2s with serial numbers less than 2560,
 replace the IF crystals too - the filter will improve  
 dramatically.  A
 set of 7 matched crystals is only $10 from Elecraft and if the KSB2  
 is
 installed, a set of 14 matched crystals is only $15.  There is no  
 need
 to match the KSB2 crystals to that used in the K2 IF filter, 2  
 matched
 sets of 7 crystals will work nicely too (if you purchase a KSB2  
 option,
 you will receive a matched set of 7 crystals with the kit.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Jim Giercyk wrote:
 Hello all,

 I've been out of the loop for a while, but I am looking to fire up  
 the
 soldering iron and digging in again.  My K2, #1998, was one of the
 earlier kits.  It is a revision A.  Right now it has the 160 board,
 internal battery and NB options, but it is strictly CW.

 I want to get the rig back 'up to snuff' and do whatever mods need  
 to
 be done to make it current.  I plan to add the SSB module, and
 eventually ditch the battery and add the amp, but for now, what are
 the critical drop-dead mods I need to do so that I am starting on a
 level playing field?  I sold my big-rig last year and so the K2 is  
 my
 one-and-only.

 I also noticed that there is a lot of documentation on soldering,  
 but
 none on desoldering.  Any good ideas would be appreciated since I  
 see
 a lopt of that in my future.  Thanks guys and gals,

 Jim
 

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 Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
 Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.15/1921 - Release Date:
 1/28/2009 6:37 AM


 

Re: [Elecraft] A plug for Nifty! accessories

2009-01-29 Thread Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604
It's very useful, but at the rate things are changing, it's always
going to be a bit out-of-date.  Combined with an electronic copy of
the current manual and the firmware notes, you've got everything
covered.

Mine is less thn 6 months old, but reflects MCU firmware 2.22, and I'm
running 2.78.

73, doug

   From: David Ferrington, M0XDF m0...@alphadene.co.uk
   Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 08:00:12 +

   It's great

   On 29 Jan 2009, at 00:17, Barbara Maloney wrote:

What about the Nifty K3 operating manual?   Anyone use it who
can comment or recommend?   Might be handy for portable operation.
Mike, AC5P
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Re: [Elecraft] FSK-D/sub-rx

2009-01-29 Thread wayne burdick
Brian,

The main and sub receivers cannot be set differently on this parameter. 
This is one of several things on my list for future revisions that 
allow band independence for the sub.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Jan 29, 2009, at 6:49 AM, Brian Alsop wrote:

 Anybody out there successfully configure the SUB-RX for HI tones 
 (2125Hz
 mark)in FSK-D?

 I can't seem to do it.  A-B all doesn't work.  BSET apparently doesn't
 recognize the pitch control used to set this.

---

http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] A plug for Nifty! accessories

2009-01-29 Thread Jim
rate things are changing, it's always
going to be a bit out-of-date.

My thoughts also.

Jim
KE4WY

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Doug Faunt N6TQS
+1-510-655-8604
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 10:40 AM
To: m0...@alphadene.co.uk
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A plug for Nifty! accessories

It's very useful, but at the rate things are changing, it's always
going to be a bit out-of-date.  Combined with an electronic copy of
the current manual and the firmware notes, you've got everything
covered.

Mine is less thn 6 months old, but reflects MCU firmware 2.22, and I'm
running 2.78.

73, doug

   From: David Ferrington, M0XDF m0...@alphadene.co.uk
   Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 08:00:12 +

   It's great

   On 29 Jan 2009, at 00:17, Barbara Maloney wrote:

What about the Nifty K3 operating manual?   Anyone use it who
can comment or recommend?   Might be handy for portable operation.
Mike, AC5P
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[Elecraft] TEST ignore

2009-01-29 Thread Greg Buhyoff
Trying to sort out a mail problem ... Greg K2UM
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Re: [Elecraft] A plug for Nifty! accessories

2009-01-29 Thread Jim Miller
Yes, mine is out of date also.  But, it is small and handy.  You get one
free or reduced cost update if I remember correctly and I am waiting until
later to order my update.

He can only include what IS not what ISN'T.  I am glad I got what I did when
I did.

73, de Jim KG0KP

- Original Message - 
From: Jim ke...@zoomtown.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A plug for Nifty! accessories


 rate things are changing, it's always
 going to be a bit out-of-date.

 My thoughts also.

 Jim
 KE4WY

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Doug Faunt N6TQS
 +1-510-655-8604
 Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 10:40 AM
 To: m0...@alphadene.co.uk
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A plug for Nifty! accessories

 It's very useful, but at the rate things are changing, it's always
 going to be a bit out-of-date.  Combined with an electronic copy of
 the current manual and the firmware notes, you've got everything
 covered.

 Mine is less thn 6 months old, but reflects MCU firmware 2.22, and I'm
 running 2.78.

 73, doug

From: David Ferrington, M0XDF m0...@alphadene.co.uk
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 08:00:12 +

It's great

On 29 Jan 2009, at 00:17, Barbara Maloney wrote:

 What about the Nifty K3 operating manual?   Anyone use it who
 can comment or recommend?   Might be handy for portable operation.
 Mike, AC5P
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and PSK

2009-01-29 Thread Robert Hall
Is there somewhere where I might find a more exhaustive step by step
discussion of seting up sound levels on the pc while connected to the K3. I
may be a little dense and have not felt entirely comfortable with what I
have read in the manual. Maybe this discussion might include config menu
items and what the different settings would do to effect the way the K3
behaves with different modes?

A good example of this is the idea of setting the number of bars for pc
output, correct? Would this be done for actual rf output or would this be
done via setting tx to test?

thank you,

Rob KE7VHF

Robert Hall
www.RobertHall.com


On Wed, Jan 28, 2009 at 8:20 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Ron,

 I would suggest that you reduce the soundcard output level and increase
 the K3 line in setting for smoother control of the audio level.  I run
 my K3 line in at 12 to 13 and adjust the soundcard level to achieve the
 proper number of ALC bars (4) - my soundcard controls are at the
 mid-point when it is adjusted correctly.
 I am using an internal SoundBlaster Live 24 soundcard. Your results may
 depend on your particular soundcard as well as the K3 settings.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Ron W3ZV wrote:
  Setting up my K3 for PSK31. Using PC with on board sound. (Intel
  Integrated Audio). Stereo cable from K3 to sound card.  I am looking to
  adjust  ALC for 4 bars using the line in adjustment. I find that a level
  change of one unit on K3 (i.e. 5 to 6) changes ALC from zero bars
  showing to 5 bars showing. Adjusting sound card levels move the onset
  point but doesn't change the behavior. Am I missing something or do I
  have something wrong with my setup?
 
  Ron W3ZV
 
 
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[Elecraft] K3 Menu-Config

2009-01-29 Thread Ken Roberson
Hello All,

Where can i get an up to date Document 
of all the changes in the menu/config ??

Also can the Tuning aid (CWT) be set by 
Mode. I only use it in the CW mode.

Thanks for all ur help
73 Ken K5DNL


  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 feature request: Save Menu's states

2009-01-29 Thread wayne burdick
We originally did this, Bill, but here's the problem. Those new to the 
K3 sometimes forget that VFO B scrolls the menu entry and VFO A 
modifies the parameters. If the last-selected menu entry is in effect 
on power-up, you can inadvertently change something important by 
spinning VFO A. We initialize the menus to benign entries (MAIN:LCD BRT 
and CONFIG:FW REVS) so there's no consequence of mixing up the two 
knobs.

There are many subtleties to user interface design, and it'll never be 
perfect for everyone. I feel that this is an important design choice 
that should remain in place.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

Bill Johnson wrote:

 Could the state of the Menu's be left at last position when turning 
 the rig
 on and off?  Right now it appears they revert back to the beginning.  I
 would like to resume where I left off when I turn the rig on.

---

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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question

2009-01-29 Thread Sam Morgan
Joe Planisky wrote:
 Hi Jim,
 
 I've had good results using a GC Electronics Solder Popper (part #  
 12-2157).  It's a 30W soldering iron with a built-in spring loaded  
 solder sucker.  While it's certainly not equal to something like a  
 Hakko 808, it's adequate for occasional use.  And at less than $40,  
 it's about 1/4 the cost.
 
I made a homebrew version of that using:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731
removed the rubber bulb and added a piece of clear tubing and:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062745
total cost about $20.00

I used it for removing the 14 xtals in my K2 just a few weeks ago
worked just fine. If you have a little solder left in the hole that doesn't 
want 
to come out (after the xtal is removed) just add a little solder to the hole, 
then use the sucker again, and it will remove it all, resulting in a clean hole.

-- 
GB  73
KA5OAI
Sam Morgan
Linux, the lifetime learning experience.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and PSK

2009-01-29 Thread Lyle Johnson
 Is there somewhere where I might find a more exhaustive step by step 
 discussion of seting up sound levels on the pc while connected to the 
 K3...

Not that I am aware of.

Best to learn by doing.  Put the radio in TX TEST mode and play with the 
LINE IN GAIN and the PC soundcard program.  Don't get too worried about 
the ALC bars.  4 or 5 bars is fine. In some cases the bars fluctuate a bit.

When things look good, get out of test mode and goon the air :-)

73,

Lyle KK7P
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and PSK

2009-01-29 Thread Don Wilhelm
Robert,

I don't know of any step-by-step instructions, the whole picture is 
complicated because of the variety of computer soundcards that could be 
used.  As far as the K3 is concerned, the procedure is simple - adjust 
the line-in gain setting, much as you would with the mic gain.

Yes, the level can be set using TX TEST - and it is best if you do it 
that way because you don't both other hams with on-the-air signals.

Normally there are two controls to work with - the LINE gain setting 
in the K3 and the Line-out soundcard controls on your PC.  The output 
from soundcards vary, so you will just have to manipulate them and see 
what happens.  For starters, I would suggest setting the soundcard 
line-out level at the slider midpoint, then adjust the LINE gain setting 
on the K3.  You should strive for settings that will allow you some 
later adjustment room if possible, but if your soundcard output level is 
very low or very high, that may not be possible.

You want to have a maximum of 4 bars of the ALC meter illuminated.  5 
bars is where the 'real' ALC comes into operation, and the bars below 
the 5th act more like as a 'VU meter'.  You want the level as high as 
possible without actually driving it into the ALC region (5th bar).

Robert Hall wrote:
 Is there somewhere where I might find a more exhaustive step by step 
 discussion of seting up sound levels on the pc while connected to the 
 K3. I may be a little dense and have not felt entirely comfortable 
 with what I have read in the manual. Maybe this discussion might 
 include config menu items and what the different settings would do to 
 effect the way the K3 behaves with different modes?
  
 A good example of this is the idea of setting the number of bars for 
 pc output, correct? Would this be done for actual rf output or would 
 this be done via setting tx to test?
  
 thank you,
  
 Rob KE7VHF
  
 Robert Hall
 www.RobertHall.com http://www.RobertHall.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with XG1

2009-01-29 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Wow, Pete, what a puzzle! 

You might make up a little probe consisting of a wire connected to your rx
antenna input that you can touch to the circuit parts. If it has to be a
long lead, use a bit of coax so random signal pickup won't confuse things.
If your rx input is grounded for d-c, put a small cap in series - anything
from .001 to .1 should be FB - to provide d-c isolation. Then touch it to
the collector of Q1. You should find your S-9 signal. If not remove coupling
cap C4 and try again. 

If you now have signal, there's a ground somewhere in the attenuator that is
killing the signal. If not, you have a defective transistor (although that
is high unlikely given that you've established that the voltage on the
collector is correct.)

Once you have the signal at the collector, start working through the
attenuator until you lose it.

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Pete Smith
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 3:15 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with XG1

Thanks Don.  Unfortunately, all those variables test OK.  I've gotta fix my 
old scope!

I think that voltage must be an indication that the transistor oscillator 
is at least drawing the right amount of current through R9.  I'm going back 
to recheck all my work on the default output attenuator.  Must be something 
there, particularly since the additional stage of attenuation when I switch 
in the 1 Uv position seems to be working properly.

73, Pete

At 02:30 PM 1/28/2009, Don wrote:
Pete,

Do you have the proper voltage on Q1?  Check for 1.22 volts at the cathode 
of U2.  Also check the value of R3 and R3 with your ohmmeter.

It sounds like you have replaced everything important, but if you had 
enough RF to fry the resistors, you may have damaged the switch contacts 
at the same time.  You should be able to determine the resistance through 
the switch with your ohmmeter.  Do that for both poles, and both switch 
positions.

73,
Don W3FPR

Pete Smith wrote:
Thanks for the idea - I removed both D1 and D2 from the circuit - no 
improvement.  The signal is quite audible (in the 50 uv switch position, 
and barely audible in the 1 uV position, but doesn't move an S-meter that 
was formerly tested with it and registered S9.

Anyone else?  I know that if I had a scope I could measure the p-p 
voltage coming out of the oscillator, but I don't.

73, Pete N4ZR


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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question

2009-01-29 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
These are inexpensive and effective desoldering tools, but be aware they are
*not* temperature controlled. The tip temperature can soar to well over
800F, especially while sitting on the cradle, then drop too low if you are
removing parts from board that includes a fair-sized ground plane. Such heat
extremes - too high or so low the iron is on the board too long - can easily
debond (lift) circuit traces and do other nasty stuff. 

That's why Elecraft calls for a temperature-controlled iron in all the
manuals and mod instructions. It's the temperature control that causes most
of the price difference. 

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Sam Morgan
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 9:27 AM
To: Joe Planisky
Cc: elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question

Joe Planisky wrote:
 Hi Jim,
 
 I've had good results using a GC Electronics Solder Popper (part #  
 12-2157).  It's a 30W soldering iron with a built-in spring loaded  
 solder sucker.  While it's certainly not equal to something like a  
 Hakko 808, it's adequate for occasional use.  And at less than $40,  
 it's about 1/4 the cost.
 
I made a homebrew version of that using:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731
removed the rubber bulb and added a piece of clear tubing and:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062745
total cost about $20.00

I used it for removing the 14 xtals in my K2 just a few weeks ago
worked just fine. If you have a little solder left in the hole that doesn't
want 
to come out (after the xtal is removed) just add a little solder to the
hole, 
then use the sucker again, and it will remove it all, resulting in a clean
hole.

-- 
GB  73
KA5OAI
Sam Morgan
Linux, the lifetime learning experience.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and PSK

2009-01-29 Thread Julian, G4ILO



Robert Hall - KE7VHF wrote:
 
 Is there somewhere where I might find a more exhaustive step by step
 discussion of seting up sound levels on the pc while connected to the K3.
 I
 may be a little dense and have not felt entirely comfortable with what I
 have read in the manual. Maybe this discussion might include config menu
 items and what the different settings would do to effect the way the K3
 behaves with different modes?
 
 A good example of this is the idea of setting the number of bars for pc
 output, correct? Would this be done for actual rf output or would this be
 done via setting tx to test?
 
 

It really would be impossible to do this because the output level and input
sensitivity of different sound cards will vary. The output even varies from
one program to another.

The receive side is easy enough, and can be adjusted until you see a faint
moving background on the waterfall with a quiet band, and the signals stand
out clear.

On transmit I would suggest that you just increase the audio going in to the
radio using a combination of the slider on the PC mixer and the MIC control,
until the output on the power meter reads the power you want. Ideally you
should do this while getting the software to send a Tune signal - a pure
tone, and aim for 50W or less. A modulated PSK signal should give a reading
of less than half the peak power, so no more than three bars on the power
scale.

I'm unhappy with the advice to set the level to 4 or 5 bars on the ALC scale
because when I do this my K3 puts out twice the power set on the POWER
control making it far too easy to overdrive the PA. I prefer to adjust the
input level until the output power matches what it says on the power
control. Then I can use the power control intuitively to set the power the
same way it works in CW and SSB modes. For me, the amount of input needed to
do this is some way below the point at which ANY ALC blobs appear.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack   http://www.ham-directory.com/ Ham
Directoryhttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-and-PSK-tp2236491p2240350.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] Impossible mission? USB with the 13khz filter for PSK31 on Digipan

2009-01-29 Thread Thomas Tumino
Hi there,
 
I am running my K3 with Digipan computer software on PSK 31.  I also have a 
full complement of 5 filters in the K3, with the widest being the 
KFL3B-FM 13Khz filter.
 
Because Digipan can receive many PSK signals at once (Multichannel Window), I 
would like to set my K3 to receive USB through the 13Khz filter.  
 
Unfortunately, despite specifically enabling the KFL3B-FM 13Khz filter in USB 
mode, I cannot get 13Khz of bandwidth in USB receive.  As a matter of fact, I 
cannot seem to get much more then 4Khz of receive in USB receive mode.  I can 
get the XFIL display to tell me I am receiving through the 13Khz filter, but 
only about 4Khz of audio will pass through (perhaps the DSP??).
 
Am I missing something here, or is this just an oversight in firmware design?  
Multichannel simultaneous receive of a massive chunk of bandwidth is a great 
feature of Digipan that I would love to take advantage of with my K3.  
 
Does someone know how to receive USB at a 13Khz bandwidth with the K3?
 
73,
Tom-N2YTF___
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and PSK

2009-01-29 Thread Robert Hall
Don, Lyle, Greg,

You guys are fabulous!

Thank you. I would really like to make sure I have things tied down for Feb.

73's

Rob

KE7VHF


Robert Hall
www.RobertHall.com


On Thu, Jan 29, 2009 at 10:42 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Robert,

 I don't know of any step-by-step instructions, the whole picture is
 complicated because of the variety of computer soundcards that could be
 used.  As far as the K3 is concerned, the procedure is simple - adjust the
 line-in gain setting, much as you would with the mic gain.

 Yes, the level can be set using TX TEST - and it is best if you do it that
 way because you don't both other hams with on-the-air signals.

 Normally there are two controls to work with - the LINE gain setting in
 the K3 and the Line-out soundcard controls on your PC.  The output from
 soundcards vary, so you will just have to manipulate them and see what
 happens.  For starters, I would suggest setting the soundcard line-out level
 at the slider midpoint, then adjust the LINE gain setting on the K3.  You
 should strive for settings that will allow you some later adjustment room if
 possible, but if your soundcard output level is very low or very high, that
 may not be possible.

 You want to have a maximum of 4 bars of the ALC meter illuminated.  5 bars
 is where the 'real' ALC comes into operation, and the bars below the 5th act
 more like as a 'VU meter'.  You want the level as high as possible without
 actually driving it into the ALC region (5th bar).

 Robert Hall wrote:

 Is there somewhere where I might find a more exhaustive step by step
 discussion of seting up sound levels on the pc while connected to the K3. I
 may be a little dense and have not felt entirely comfortable with what I
 have read in the manual. Maybe this discussion might include config menu
 items and what the different settings would do to effect the way the K3
 behaves with different modes?
  A good example of this is the idea of setting the number of bars for pc
 output, correct? Would this be done for actual rf output or would this be
 done via setting tx to test?
  thank you,
  Rob KE7VHF
  Robert Hall
 www.RobertHall.com http://www.roberthall.com/ 
 http://www.RobertHall.com http://www.roberthall.com/


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Re: [Elecraft] Impossible mission? USB with the 13khz filter for PSK31 on Digipan

2009-01-29 Thread Julian, G4ILO



Thomas Tumino wrote:
 
 Hi there,
  
 I am running my K3 with Digipan computer software on PSK 31.  I also have
 a full complement of 5 filters in the K3, with the widest being the
 KFL3B-FM 13Khz filter.
  
 Because Digipan can receive many PSK signals at once (Multichannel
 Window), I would like to set my K3 to receive USB through the 13Khz
 filter.  
  
 Unfortunately, despite specifically enabling the KFL3B-FM 13Khz filter in
 USB mode, I cannot get 13Khz of bandwidth in USB receive.  As a matter of
 fact, I cannot seem to get much more then 4Khz of receive in USB receive
 mode.  I can get the XFIL display to tell me I am receiving through the
 13Khz filter, but only about 4Khz of audio will pass through (perhaps the
 DSP??).
  
 Am I missing something here, or is this just an oversight in firmware
 design?  Multichannel simultaneous receive of a massive chunk of bandwidth
 is a great feature of Digipan that I would love to take advantage of with
 my K3.  
  
 Does someone know how to receive USB at a 13Khz bandwidth with the K3?
  
 

I don't use Digipan but I doubt if it is capable of displaying that big a
slice of bandwidth. The maximum that can be received is half the sampling
rate the software uses. Many of the older digimode programs use a sampling
rate of 8KHz or 11.025KHz. So my first question is what sampling rate are
you using?

My second question is, what is the point anyway? All the PSK31 activity here
takes place in a bandwidth of about 3KHz. So a 4KHz waterfall would show you
all you wanted to see. If it covered any wider then stations operating close
together would be hard to tell apart.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack   http://www.ham-directory.com/ Ham
Directoryhttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Impossible-mission--USB-with-the-13khz-filter-for-PSK31-on-Digipan-tp2240355p2240400.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 feature request: Save Menu's states

2009-01-29 Thread Bill Johnson
Wayne,

Thank you for the info.  

Makes sense to leave it where it is. There is so much to learn with rigs
these days it can be difficult to remember it all.  I cannot tell you how
much I appreciate the quality of the radio.  I haven't turned on my other HF
equipment because of the K3. (I do use the ts2000 for independent VHF UHF
monitoring.  That will change once the independent VFO on separate bands
becomes a reality for the K3. Then I will probably add the Xverters, etc., 


73,

Bill
K9YEQ
K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods

-Original Message-
From: wayne burdick [mailto:n...@elecraft.com] 


There are many subtleties to user interface design, and it'll never be 
perfect for everyone. I feel that this is an important design choice 
that should remain in place.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

Bill Johnson wrote:

 Could the state of the Menu's be left at last position when turning 
 the rig
 on and off?  Right now it appears they revert back to the beginning.  I
 would like to resume where I left off when I turn the rig on.


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Re: [Elecraft] A plug for Nifty! accessories

2009-01-29 Thread David Gilbert


I just bought one a couple of weeks ago and it shows firmware revs up 
through 2.67.

73,
Dave  AB7E


Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604 wrote:
 It's very useful, but at the rate things are changing, it's always
 going to be a bit out-of-date.  Combined with an electronic copy of
 the current manual and the firmware notes, you've got everything
 covered.

 Mine is less thn 6 months old, but reflects MCU firmware 2.22, and I'm
 running 2.78.

   
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[Elecraft] K3, Mixw, Rigexpert, and Vista problem

2009-01-29 Thread Kenneth Waites
I'm trying to get things going on VISTA.
I downloaded the VISTA version of the RE and MIXW driver.
I used VISTA Device Manager to set USB Serial port to be 13, 4800 baud.
I used MIXW to set Kenwood, K2 model, com 13, 4800 baud.
When I bring up MIXW I get message indicating com13 is already in use.
Has anyone gone thru this?

Ken K5WK___
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Re: [Elecraft] A plug for Nifty! accessories

2009-01-29 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Yes, true, but they do update pages - just not sure if there are any  
available yet.
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
-- 
I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but  
I am not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant.
- Robert McCloskey, State Department spokesman (attributed)

On 29 Jan 2009, at 15:40, Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604 wrote:

 It's very useful, but at the rate things are changing, it's always
 going to be a bit out-of-date.  Combined with an electronic copy of
 the current manual and the firmware notes, you've got everything
 covered.

 Mine is less thn 6 months old, but reflects MCU firmware 2.22, and I'm
 running 2.78.

 73, doug

   From: David Ferrington, M0XDF m0...@alphadene.co.uk
   Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 08:00:12 +

   It's great

   On 29 Jan 2009, at 00:17, Barbara Maloney wrote:

 What about the Nifty K3 operating manual?   Anyone use it who
 can comment or recommend?   Might be handy for portable operation.
 Mike, AC5P

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Re: [Elecraft] Impossible mission? USB with the 13khz filter for PSK31 on Digipan

2009-01-29 Thread Tom-N2YTF

I don't use Digipan but I doubt if it is capable of displaying that big a
slice of bandwidth. The maximum that can be received is half the sampling
rate the software uses. Many of the older digimode programs use a sampling
rate of 8KHz or 11.025KHz. So my first question is what sampling rate are
you using?

Thanks for the advice.I am running at 12Khz, giving me a 6Khz receive
limit on the computer...good point.  Still, I can only get about 4Khz out of
the K3 even though I have the 12Khz filter, and I wouldn't be surprised to
find other software out there that will go much wider.

My second question is, what is the point anyway? All the PSK31 activity here
takes place in a bandwidth of about 3KHz.

I guess a lot of the time that is true, but certainly during the PSK 31
contests things broaden out a bit.

 So a 4KHz waterfall would show you all you wanted to see. If it covered any
wider then stations operating close together would be hard to tell apart.

I don't understand what you mean by that.  Why would they be harder to tell
apart if I had more bandwidth?  I don't want to run broadbandwidth all the
time, just long enough to find somthing interesting and then I want to
narrow down to 50Khz (I also have the 200hz filter) to peak it up. 
Actually, that brings up another point, I wish the filter shift would move
in increments smaller than the current increment so that I could really zero
in on psk31 signals, as they are so close sometimes, and I like to operate
in the smallest bandwidth possible.

Thanks again,
Tom-N2YTF


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and PSK

2009-01-29 Thread Lyle Johnson
 I'm unhappy with the advice to set the level to 4 or 5 bars on the ALC scale
 because when I do this my K3 puts out twice the power set on the POWER
 control making it far too easy to overdrive the PA. I prefer to adjust the
 input level until the output power matches what it says on the power
 control. Then I can use the power control intuitively to set the power the
 same way it works in CW and SSB modes. For me, the amount of input needed to
 do this is some way below the point at which ANY ALC blobs appear.

If you really must do this, you should probably set CONFIG:TX ALC OFF 
once you've adjusted your power level using the PWR control. Otherwise 
the ALC system will see the Tx output not being what was requested and 
will increase the gain, leading to power creep and all sorts of other 
problems.  And a side effect is that when you next request power, you'll 
get alot more than you asked for because the ALC loop now believes the 
Tx chain gain is far less than it actually is.  The ALC 5 bar level is 
the level to which all transmit system gains are balanced -- at least 
those that use any sort of audio as the ultimate source.

In the latest Beta code I tried very hard to balance levels so that 
CONFIG:TXG VCE can be set to 0.0dB.  This might have been affecting your 
power control issues.

I did extensive testing with Olivia (125/8 through 2000/64) and WSPR to 
be sure the power levels are as requested and stable.  At least on my 
K3, they seem to be.

73,

Lyle KK7P
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Re: [Elecraft] Impossible mission? USB with the 13khz filter for PSK31on Digipan

2009-01-29 Thread Barry N1EU



Joe Subich, W4TV-4 wrote:
 
 
 
 Unfortunately, despite specifically enabling the KFL3B-FM 
 13Khz filter in USB mode, I cannot get 13Khz of bandwidth in 
 USB receive.  As a matter of fact, I cannot seem to get much 
 more then 4Khz of receive in USB receive mode. 
 
 You will not see more than 4 KHz of audio in any mode.  The 
 DSP includes a brickwall cut-off at 4200 Hz in SSB, DATA, 
 AM and FM with a lower (2800 Hz) cutoff in CW. 
 

With LP-PAN and PowerSDR or Winrad you can open up the audio bandwidth
(20Khz?)

73,
Barry N1EU

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Re: [Elecraft] Impossible mission? USB with the 13khz filter for PSK31on Digipan

2009-01-29 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


 Unfortunately, despite specifically enabling the KFL3B-FM 
 13Khz filter in USB mode, I cannot get 13Khz of bandwidth in 
 USB receive.  As a matter of fact, I cannot seem to get much 
 more then 4Khz of receive in USB receive mode. 

You will not see more than 4 KHz of audio in any mode.  The 
DSP includes a brickwall cut-off at 4200 Hz in SSB, DATA, 
AM and FM with a lower (2800 Hz) cutoff in CW. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
   
 



 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Thomas Tumino
 Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 12:59 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Impossible mission? USB with the 13khz 
 filter for PSK31on Digipan
 
 
 Hi there,
 
 I am running my K3 with Digipan computer software on PSK 31.  
 I also have a full complement of 5 filters in the K3, with 
 the widest being the KFL3B-FM 13Khz filter.
 
 Because Digipan can receive many PSK signals at once 
 (Multichannel Window), I would like to set my K3 to receive 
 USB through the 13Khz filter.  
 
 Unfortunately, despite specifically enabling the KFL3B-FM 
 13Khz filter in USB mode, I cannot get 13Khz of bandwidth in 
 USB receive.  As a matter of fact, I cannot seem to get much 
 more then 4Khz of receive in USB receive mode.  I can get the 
 XFIL display to tell me I am receiving through the 13Khz 
 filter, but only about 4Khz of audio will pass through 
 (perhaps the DSP??).
 
 Am I missing something here, or is this just an oversight in 
 firmware design?  Multichannel simultaneous receive of a 
 massive chunk of bandwidth is a great feature of Digipan that 
 I would love to take advantage of with my K3.  
 
 Does someone know how to receive USB at a 13Khz bandwidth with the K3?
 
 73,
 Tom-N2YTF
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question

2009-01-29 Thread Jim Giercyk
All,

Believe it or not, I already own both of the RS items.  I abandon the 
desoldering iron because of the temperature issue Ron mentioned.  I feel that 
the sucker doesn't really cut it as far as vacuum power.  I was planning on 
using my Weller WES50 station and the trusty old Sold-a-pult.  I guess I panic 
whenever there is a chance the a board could get destroyed.  It seems the 
consensus is that the rock-and-pull method should work without a problem 
assuming the temperature is kept low enough.

I guess the next logical question would be, What's the difference between the 
old and new crystals?.  Were the older crystals of inferior quality?  Thanks 
to everyone,

Jim

--- r...@cobi.biz wrote:

From: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
To: 'elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 09:58:47 -0800

These are inexpensive and effective desoldering tools, but be aware they are
*not* temperature controlled. The tip temperature can soar to well over
800F, especially while sitting on the cradle, then drop too low if you are
removing parts from board that includes a fair-sized ground plane. Such heat
extremes - too high or so low the iron is on the board too long - can easily
debond (lift) circuit traces and do other nasty stuff. 

That's why Elecraft calls for a temperature-controlled iron in all the
manuals and mod instructions. It's the temperature control that causes most
of the price difference. 

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Sam Morgan
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 9:27 AM
To: Joe Planisky
Cc: elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question

Joe Planisky wrote:
 Hi Jim,
 
 I've had good results using a GC Electronics Solder Popper (part #  
 12-2157).  It's a 30W soldering iron with a built-in spring loaded  
 solder sucker.  While it's certainly not equal to something like a  
 Hakko 808, it's adequate for occasional use.  And at less than $40,  
 it's about 1/4 the cost.
 
I made a homebrew version of that using:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731
removed the rubber bulb and added a piece of clear tubing and:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062745
total cost about $20.00

I used it for removing the 14 xtals in my K2 just a few weeks ago
worked just fine. If you have a little solder left in the hole that doesn't
want 
to come out (after the xtal is removed) just add a little solder to the
hole, 
then use the sucker again, and it will remove it all, resulting in a clean
hole.

-- 
GB  73
KA5OAI
Sam Morgan
Linux, the lifetime learning experience.
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Re: [Elecraft] dB Gain -- was RE: [K3] FLx GN Adding Db gain

2009-01-29 Thread Bill NY9H
my wife's car stereo has an adjustment for CDs it optionally 
reduces the dynamic range to you CAN hear it in the car, with all 
that ambient.

bill

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Re: [Elecraft] Impossible mission? USB with the 13khz filter for PSK31on Digipan

2009-01-29 Thread Greg - AB7R
LP Pan and WinRad are using the K3's IF, not the audio output from the K3.


-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065


On Thu Jan 29 11:02 , Barry N1EU  sent:




Joe Subich, W4TV-4 wrote:
 
 
 
 Unfortunately, despite specifically enabling the KFL3B-FM 
 13Khz filter in USB mode, I cannot get 13Khz of bandwidth in 
 USB receive.  As a matter of fact, I cannot seem to get much 
 more then 4Khz of receive in USB receive mode. 
 
 You will not see more than 4 KHz of audio in any mode.  The 
 DSP includes a brickwall cut-off at 4200 Hz in SSB, DATA, 
 AM and FM with a lower (2800 Hz) cutoff in CW. 
 

With LP-PAN and PowerSDR or Winrad you can open up the audio bandwidth
(20Khz?)

73,
Barry N1EU

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Impossible-mission--USB-with-
the-13khz-filter-for-PSK31-on-Digipan-tp2240355p2240701.html
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Re: [Elecraft] Impossible mission? USB with the 13khz filter for PSK31on Digipan

2009-01-29 Thread Thomas Tumino
 Unfortunately, despite specifically enabling the KFL3B-FM 
 13Khz filter in USB mode, I cannot get 13Khz of bandwidth in 
 USB receive.  As a matter of fact, I cannot seem to get much 
 more then 4Khz of receive in USB receive mode. 

You will not see more than 4 KHz of audio in any mode.  The 
DSP includes a brickwall cut-off at 4200 Hz in SSB, DATA, 
AM and FM with a lower (2800 Hz) cutoff in CW. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
Joe,I wonder why they setup the radio that waythatsa limiting factor when 
using programs like CW skimmerwhich like Digipan decodes a 3Khz+ swath of CW 
stationsall at once..73-Tom-N2YTF   
 



 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Thomas Tumino
 Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 12:59 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Impossible mission? USB with the 13khz 
 filter for PSK31on Digipan
 
 
 Hi there,
 
 I am running my K3 with Digipan computer software on PSK 31.  
 I also have a full complement of 5 filters in the K3, with 
 the widest being the KFL3B-FM 13Khz filter.
 
 Because Digipan can receive many PSK signals at once 
 (Multichannel Window), I would like to set my K3 to receive 
 USB through the 13Khz filter.  
 
 Unfortunately, despite specifically enabling the KFL3B-FM 
 13Khz filter in USB mode, I cannot get 13Khz of bandwidth in 
 USB receive.  As a matter of fact, I cannot seem to get much 
 more then 4Khz of receive in USB receive mode.  I can get the 
 XFIL display to tell me I am receiving through the 13Khz 
 filter, but only about 4Khz of audio will pass through 
 (perhaps the DSP??).
 
 Am I missing something here, or is this just an oversight in 
 firmware design?  Multichannel simultaneous receive of a 
 massive chunk of bandwidth is a great feature of Digipan that 
 I would love to take advantage of with my K3.  
 
 Does someone know how to receive USB at a 13Khz bandwidth with the K3?
 
 73,
 Tom-N2YTF
 

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[Elecraft] K2 low resistance at pin 8 U6 rf board.

2009-01-29 Thread John
Hello all K2 users.
I'm trying to track down a problem on the rf board.
Pin 8 of U6 shows a resistance of approx 50 ohm when it's supposed to be 
greater than 100 ohms.
I've gone ahead and assembled the rest of the kit and I am not happy with the 
amount of current 
it draws, approx 240 mils.
I notice that when listening to WWV at 10 megs if I hit the dit key, the 
current drops to 160 mils.
Anyone else see that?
I wonder what part of the circuit is dropped when the key is closed and if it's 
the 8B line, (where I'm
seeing the low resistance.)
I know I can use it the way it is but it's really not what I'd like to use if 
it draws more current than it's 
supposed to.
Don and Gary have offered advice and I wonder if anyone else could shed more 
light on 
locating the problem of low resistance.
Nothing is getting overly warm, that I can find.
Thanks.
John.

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Re: [Elecraft] Impossible mission? USB with the 13khz filter for PSK31on Digipan

2009-01-29 Thread Barry N1EU



Greg - AB7R wrote:
 
 LP Pan and WinRad are using the K3's IF, not the audio output from the K3.
 
I didn't see that requirement in the original post's question: Does someone
know how to receive USB at a 13Khz bandwidth with the K3?

Actually, I tried it and it seems that PowerSDR is limited to 10Khz and
Winrad less than that, so LP-PAN evidently won't get you there either at
this time.

73,
Barry N1EU

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Re: [Elecraft] Impossible mission? USB with the 13khz filter for PSK31on Digipan

2009-01-29 Thread Lyle Johnson
The K3 audio channel is designed for communications audio in a bandwidth 
of 5 kHz or less.  There are a number of reasons for this.

Using the 13 kHz roofing filter doesn't change that.  It does widen the 
IF passband and make the radio more susceptible to nearby, very strong 
signals.  Think of it as a way to emulate the performance of high-IF 
radios with wide roofing filters :-)

In addition, most PSK31 activity takes place in a 3 kHz or less window 
on most bands since that is what most SSB filters will pass in most radios.

I almost always narrow the passband once I have a QSO in progress since 
a strong station coming on can activate the AGC and push down the signal 
I am trying to copy, or affect the soundcard input, etc.

73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] AC supply for KX-1

2009-01-29 Thread djmd

Yeah - Batteries Plus is a good source for AGM batteries. You may have one in
town, else you could order online. The battery I have is the Werker 7.5ah:

http://www.batteriesplus.com/pc-32634-32634-WKA12-7.5F.aspx

You can get quite a smaller capacity model as well to save weight and $$$.
They sell Werker brand AGM battery chargers, you will find those on there as
well. However I have a Battery Tender Plus which is a bit pricier, but I use
it for my motorcycle batter as well.


djmd wrote:
 
 I have to second this idea - dollar for dollar you aren't going to get any
 cleaner power than a little battery. I use a 7.2ah battery for my KX1,
 which I can bring outside, bring on the trail, or use anywhere in the
 house... will last nearly forever. Even a small 3ah would last a heck of a
 long time, and would also be useful for other radios/projects. I use a
 battery tender plus, but I'm sure you could get a cheaper charger to do
 the job.
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Upgrade question

2009-01-29 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jim,

The 'old' crystals were used in K2s prior to SN 2560, so if your SN is 
higher, you have the newer crystals.
The old crystals quality was not inferior - as quality is normally 
measured for crystals used for oscillators and such.  However, Elecraft 
tightened the specs on the motional parameters with the crystal 
manufacturer, and the new crystals are more tightly controlled for the 
parameters that matter most in a crystal filter.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jim Giercyk wrote:
 I guess the next logical question would be, What's the difference between 
 the old and new crystals?.  Were the older crystals of inferior quality?  
 Thanks to everyone,

 Jim
   

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - RF Board part 2

2009-01-29 Thread djmd

Thanks Don, this did the trick!

Unfortunately I can't test it again on the dipole... mother nature decided
to dump an inch of ice on us which weighted down the antenna and took down
the mast holding up one end of it. booo... I'm still a little bit
concerned about the strange noises I was hearing on and off throughout the
band when I was connected to the big antenna. But I think I am just going to
start part 3.





Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
 
 The first thing you should do when you get back to it Thursday is to put 
 the bottom cover on (using all 6 screws) if it is not already mounted, 
 and then run CAL PLL.  That should set your tuning straight. 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Impossible mission? USB with the 13khz filter for PSK31on Digipan

2009-01-29 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

 I wonder why they setup the radio that waythats
 a limiting factor when using programs like CW skimmer
 which like Digipan decodes a 3Khz+ swath of CW stations
 all at once..

It looks like DigiPan will run/display up to 5500 Hz - 
that doesn't seem to be a significant benefit above 
the K3's 4200 Hz limit.  

CW Skimmer requires separate I/Q sources in order to do 
broadband decoding and that's not available from the 
K3 audio interface (Line Out).  

I don't know the DAC clock rate is but if possible 
it would be nice to be able to sretch the response to 
5500 or 6000 Hz for occasional use with AM/SWL/etc. 
However, I'd rather see per mode EQ and some extensions 
to the CAT interface first. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 



 -Original Message-
 From: Thomas Tumino [mailto:thomastum...@yahoo.com] 
 Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 4:35 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; li...@subich.com
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Impossible mission? USB with the 
 13khz filter for PSK31on Digipan
 
 
  Unfortunately, despite specifically enabling the KFL3B-FM
  13Khz filter in USB mode, I cannot get 13Khz of bandwidth in 
  USB receive.  As a matter of fact, I cannot seem to get much 
  more then 4Khz of receive in USB receive mode. 
 
 You will not see more than 4 KHz of audio in any mode.  The 
 DSP includes a brickwall cut-off at 4200 Hz in SSB, DATA, 
 AM and FM with a lower (2800 Hz) cutoff in CW. 
 
 73, 
 
... Joe, W4TV 
 
 Joe,
 I wonder why they setup the radio that waythats
 a limiting factor when using programs like CW skimmer
 which like Digipan decodes a 3Khz+ swath of CW stations
 all at once..
 73-Tom-N2YTF   
  
 
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
  [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Thomas Tumino
  Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 12:59 PM
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: [Elecraft] Impossible mission? USB with the 13khz 
  filter for PSK31on Digipan
  
  
  Hi there,
  
  I am running my K3 with Digipan computer software on PSK 31.
  I also have a full complement of 5 filters in the K3, with 
  the widest being the KFL3B-FM 13Khz filter.
  
  Because Digipan can receive many PSK signals at once
  (Multichannel Window), I would like to set my K3 to receive 
  USB through the 13Khz filter.  
  
  Unfortunately, despite specifically enabling the KFL3B-FM
  13Khz filter in USB mode, I cannot get 13Khz of bandwidth in 
  USB receive.  As a matter of fact, I cannot seem to get much 
  more then 4Khz of receive in USB receive mode.  I can get the 
  XFIL display to tell me I am receiving through the 13Khz 
  filter, but only about 4Khz of audio will pass through 
  (perhaps the DSP??).
  
  Am I missing something here, or is this just an oversight in
  firmware design?  Multichannel simultaneous receive of a 
  massive chunk of bandwidth is a great feature of Digipan that 
  I would love to take advantage of with my K3.  
  
  Does someone know how to receive USB at a 13Khz bandwidth 
 with the K3?
  
  73,
  Tom-N2YTF
  
 

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[Elecraft] Help with Freq. memory!

2009-01-29 Thread JIM DAVIS
 From a Greenhorn,

What I want to do is get a frequency (50.125mhz) into the quick memory, which I 
suppose is M1-M4
circular config on the right-hand side of the rig like when using CW on any 
particular band and
recording a CW macro-msg. Some quick method of getting that particular freq. 
into it, so that
whatever other band I'm on when I want 50.125mhz I'd hit (1) button!!!

Can anybody out here help me with a STEP-BY-STEP LESSON to accomplish the 
goal???

Regards,

Jim/nn6ee

PS,
Looking thru the manual it did'nt realy explain that particular PROCEDURE or 
else I missed 
something!
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Re: [Elecraft] Impossible mission? USB with the 13khz filter for PSK31on Digipan

2009-01-29 Thread Barry N1EU
On Thu, Jan 29, 2009 at 11:02 PM, Leigh L. Klotz, Jr. WA5ZNU
le...@wa5znu.org wrote:

 Since PowerSDR was origianally designed for the even wider SDR devices,
 I'd expect that it would be able to show you more than 10Khz.  Maybe it's
 a setting?  Perhapshe LP-PAN yahoo group would be the place to look.


Leigh, we're talking about audio output, not panadapter diplay width.
Besides a panadapter display, the LP-PAN software will demodulate any
displayed signal under user control and provide demodulated audio
output.

73,
Barry N1EU
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 low resistance at pin 8 U6 rf board.

2009-01-29 Thread Don Wilhelm
John,

240 ma is quite normal for receive current on a K2.
However, I just measured the resistance from RF board U6 to ground on 2 
K2s and found the normal resistance is about 240 ohms.

I also tried checking the current draw when the dit key is held down 
(power set to zero and the keying input set to HAND) - the current 
increase is a bit over 20 ma., so I can't explain why you are seeing 
only 160 ma - unless your keying input is set to paddles, and then it is 
possible that the changing display numbers are not settling fast enough 
to give you a valid reading.

73,
Don W3FPR

John wrote:
 Hello all K2 users.
 I'm trying to track down a problem on the rf board.
 Pin 8 of U6 shows a resistance of approx 50 ohm when it's supposed to 
 be greater than 100 ohms.
 I've gone ahead and assembled the rest of the kit and I am not happy 
 with the amount of current
 it draws, approx 240 mils.
 I notice that when listening to WWV at 10 megs if I hit the dit key, 
 the current drops to 160 mils.
 Anyone else see that?
 I wonder what part of the circuit is dropped when the key is closed 
 and if it's the 8B line, (where I'm
 seeing the low resistance.)
 I know I can use it the way it is but it's really not what I'd like to 
 use if it draws more current than it's
 supposed to.
 Don and Gary have offered advice and I wonder if anyone else could 
 shed more light on
 locating the problem of low resistance.
 Nothing is getting overly warm, that I can find.
 Thanks.
 John.

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[Elecraft] PowerSDR-IF

2009-01-29 Thread Sam Morgan
Here is my question:
If anyone is using this PowerSDR-IF software
with a Softrock as an IF for a K2..

What IF Frequency(s) have you entered on that Softrock IF Stage tab.
for LSB, USB and CW ?

About 3 pages down from:
http://www.wu2x.com/sdr.html#gettingstarted

you will find an image of the Softrock IF Stage tab:
http://www.wu2x.com/images/setup2.jpg

http://www.wu2x.com/sdr.html
-- 
GB  73
KA5OAI
Sam Morgan
Linux, the lifetime learning experience.

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Re: [Elecraft] PowerSDR-IF

2009-01-29 Thread Barry N1EU



Sam Morgan-3 wrote:
 
 Here is my question:
 If anyone is using this PowerSDR-IF software
 with a Softrock as an IF for a K2..
 
 What IF Frequency(s) have you entered on that Softrock IF Stage tab.
 for LSB, USB and CW ?
 
It will be in the neighborhood of 6000hz, as indicated in the manual.  The
IF Freq will vary slightly if your roofing filter offset frequencies vary as
you change modes and selectivity on your K3.

FYI, there's an LP-PAN Yahoo User's Group.

73,
Barry N1EU

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[Elecraft] K2 C22 ID

2009-01-29 Thread djmd

Hi - 

Just a quick check here. C22 calls for a 3.3pf, manual says it should be
labeled 2R7, 3, 3.3, or 3R3. I have none of those - but do have one labeled
2.7C... just wanted to make sure this was the guy. Thanks!! 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 C22 ID

2009-01-29 Thread Don Wilhelm
Use it, it is correct for a 2.7 pf capacitor. 
The number of ways a capacitor can be marked are too numerous to cover 
in a brief description in a parts list.  Sorry that the manual is 
confusing on issues like this, but there is no good way to prevent it.
If you want to become familiar with the various markings used for 
capacitors, the ARRL Handbook is a good resource, but even their lengthy 
discussion is not complete.

73,
Don W3FPR

djmd wrote:
 Hi - 

 Just a quick check here. C22 calls for a 3.3pf, manual says it should be
 labeled 2R7, 3, 3.3, or 3R3. I have none of those - but do have one labeled
 2.7C... just wanted to make sure this was the guy. Thanks!! 

   

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Re: [Elecraft] PowerSDR-IF

2009-01-29 Thread Don Wilhelm
Sam,

I am not using a Softrock with the K2, but the principle is the same as 
that indicated in the article you referenced.  The K2 IF center is close 
to 4913 kHz, but will vary from K2 to K2, and the CW center frequency 
will be different than the SSB filter center.

Your softrock receiver will have its own center frequency.  So do 
exactly as the article says - subtract them and enter that into PowerSDR 
as your initial trial.  That will get something on the screen at 
approximately the frequency indicated by PowerSDR.  That can be refined 
by using a signal of known frequency.

73,
Don W3FPR

Sam Morgan wrote:
 Here is my question:
 If anyone is using this PowerSDR-IF software
 with a Softrock as an IF for a K2..

 What IF Frequency(s) have you entered on that Softrock IF Stage tab.
 for LSB, USB and CW ?

 About 3 pages down from:
 http://www.wu2x.com/sdr.html#gettingstarted

 you will find an image of the Softrock IF Stage tab:
 http://www.wu2x.com/images/setup2.jpg

 http://www.wu2x.com/sdr.html
   
   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3, Mixw, Rigexpert, and Vista problem

2009-01-29 Thread W2XB

Hello Ken,
If your using rigexpert with the mixw software you have to set the soundcard
to rigexpert first. then when you go to cat interface it will show the
rig expert.
I had it working great. I now use a Navigator interface. But the rigexpert
was all I needed..

Don...w2xb


 

Kenneth Waites wrote:
 
 I'm trying to get things going on VISTA.
 I downloaded the VISTA version of the RE and MIXW driver.
 I used VISTA Device Manager to set USB Serial port to be 13, 4800 baud.
 I used MIXW to set Kenwood, K2 model, com 13, 4800 baud.
 When I bring up MIXW I get message indicating com13 is already in use.
 Has anyone gone thru this?
 
 Ken K5WK
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[Elecraft] K2 freq calibration...

2009-01-29 Thread Brett Gazdzinski
I am having a hard time getting the frequency calibration on my K2 closer 
than 80 Hz.
I set the osc to exactly 4Mhz, plus or minus a Hz on the pro3 switching 
between usb and lsb, it also agrees with the HP spectrum analyzer, I then 
run the cal pll, and the bfo calibration, and when tuning in ssb signals, 
they sound normal 80 or more Hz higher than they should (as tuned in on the 
pro 3).

Is this as good as it gets on ssb?
I have compared CW signals between the two rigs and they are very close, 
within about 10 Hz on 80 meters anyway.

It seems the freq counter, pll cal, and bfo all sort of interact, but if the 
freq counter calibration is spot on, why the 80 Hz difference?
(80 Hz is as close as I have gotten it in many attempts)

Also, is it normal for the non ssb filters to look SO bad on spectrogram??

I got the ssb option on Tuesday, it was done Tuesday night, the antenna 
tuner was done Wednesday, no problems with them, no missing parts, no 
issues, I made my first ssb contact yesterday on 80 meters using the hand 
mic from the pro 3.
SSB from the K2 sounds good in the pro 3, the report I got said it sounded a 
bit restricted, the hand mic sounds poor on the pro 3...

What would be a nice sounding microphone to use with the K2?

Also, I have been thinking of taking down the home made G5RV and trying an 
alpha delta dx-lb plus (160 through 10), the G5RV does not seem to work as 
good as the 40 meter dipole on 40, and its likely worse on other bands...

Anyone got anything bad to say about the dx-lb plus, I know its not as good 
as a full size 160 m antenna, but I have about 110 feet max between trees.

I sure am enjoying the K2!


Brett
N2DTS




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 freq calibration...

2009-01-29 Thread Don Wilhelm
Brett,

You ask several questions, and I will delay on all of them except the 
one about calibration.
You are relying on too many variables when setting the 4 MHz reference 
oscillator.
To reduce those variables, use the N6KR method that is documented at 
http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/K2%20C22%20Adjust%20App%20Note.pdf.  If you 
can tune WWV accurately, all other variables are cancelled out by that 
method.

You may also find helpful information in the K2 Dial Calibration article 
on my website www.w3fpr.com.  For your restriceted SSB audio, consider 
the comments in that article about the low frequency corner of the SSB 
filter passband carefully - 300 Hz is the 'magic' frequency.

After you get the dial calibration correct (within 20 Hz or less), ask 
about the other items.

73,
Don W3FPR


Brett Gazdzinski wrote:
 I am having a hard time getting the frequency calibration on my K2 closer 
 than 80 Hz.
 I set the osc to exactly 4Mhz, plus or minus a Hz on the pro3 switching 
 between usb and lsb, it also agrees with the HP spectrum analyzer, I then 
 run the cal pll, and the bfo calibration, and when tuning in ssb signals, 
 they sound normal 80 or more Hz higher than they should (as tuned in on the 
 pro 3).

 Is this as good as it gets on ssb?
 I have compared CW signals between the two rigs and they are very close, 
 within about 10 Hz on 80 meters anyway.

 It seems the freq counter, pll cal, and bfo all sort of interact, but if the 
 freq counter calibration is spot on, why the 80 Hz difference?
 (80 Hz is as close as I have gotten it in many attempts)

 Also, is it normal for the non ssb filters to look SO bad on spectrogram??

 I got the ssb option on Tuesday, it was done Tuesday night, the antenna 
 tuner was done Wednesday, no problems with them, no missing parts, no 
 issues, I made my first ssb contact yesterday on 80 meters using the hand 
 mic from the pro 3.
 SSB from the K2 sounds good in the pro 3, the report I got said it sounded a 
 bit restricted, the hand mic sounds poor on the pro 3...

 What would be a nice sounding microphone to use with the K2?

 Also, I have been thinking of taking down the home made G5RV and trying an 
 alpha delta dx-lb plus (160 through 10), the G5RV does not seem to work as 
 good as the 40 meter dipole on 40, and its likely worse on other bands...

 Anyone got anything bad to say about the dx-lb plus, I know its not as good 
 as a full size 160 m antenna, but I have about 110 feet max between trees.

 I sure am enjoying the K2!


 Brett
 N2DTS
   

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[Elecraft] K3 and Windows 7

2009-01-29 Thread Adam Koczarski

Took a bit of fiddling to get LP_Bridge to create virtual com ports, but
everything is now working with Windows 7. LP_Bridge sees the K3. PowerSDR
works with my 0202 USB Sound card. HDR connects too. The K3 utility works as
I was able to backup my K3.

The first two installations of Windows 7 failed with a blue screen at the
final reboot. It turns out the two USB to serial interface drivers were
hanging things up. I simply unplugged the hardware, did the install, then
plugged them back in. They run fine now. Not sure why they hosed the
install?? I guess the install doesn't like the drivers, but Windows 7 has no
problem after it's running.

I can't say exactly what was hanging up LP_Bridge the first few times I
installed it. On about the third install I tried installing it to 'My
Documents' rather than 'Program Files'. Worked fine then. Vista has new
security models for the 'Program Files' DIR which is what I suspect to be
causing the issues. However, after the successful install to the 'My Docs' I
was able to uninstall and reinstall to the 'Program Files' DIR. Go
figure.

Adam - ka7ark



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[Elecraft] Watt Meter Behavior

2009-01-29 Thread Jim - W6VAR

My watt meter seems to behave strangely in SSB. I've run all the calibrations
and have it hooked to the Elecraft W1 watt meter and 50 ohm dummy load. When
set for 100 watts, I get 100 watts on both the K3 and the W1 on CW key down.
On SSB, the K3 meter regularly exceeds 100 watts, pegging the 120 lines
while the W1 peaks out at 100 watts. I've noticed this for several revision
of firmware. 

I also just downloaded verson 2.8 and tried setting the SMTR PK to ON, but
the peak reading doesn't seem to work anymore.

Anyone else have this experience?

Jim - W6VAR
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Re: [Elecraft] K3, Mixw, Rigexpert, and Vista prob

2009-01-29 Thread Kenneth Waites
The problem was a mixture of two versions of mixw.
Now the only thing I still have to get working is the PTT so ESC key will 
toggle between TX and RX,  I have it set up in the cat interface, but so far 
its not working.  Now I think I may have to change something in the K3 PTT 
config items.

Ken K5WK___
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