[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net announcement

2013-09-29 Thread Phil Shepard
The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet Sunday (9/29/13) at 1800z on 14.3035 MHz. 
 I will be net control from western Oregon.  See you there.

73,
Phil, NS7P


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Re: [Elecraft] mods to K2

2013-09-29 Thread Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft
We've beaten this subject to death with lots of good info. 

Thread now closed in the interest of improving list SNR :-)

73,

Eric
You're intrepid Elecraft list moderator, who is waiting for his flight home at 
Heathrow. I hate jet lag..

elecraft.com
---
Sent from my iPhone 5S

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Re: [Elecraft] Eric Flies Home

2013-09-29 Thread Geoffrey Downs
Happy Landings Eric. Thanks for coming to the UK National Hamfest. It was 
very good for so many of us here to be able to meet you in person and to 
have the opportunity to hear your interesting talks.


73

Geoff
G3UCK

-Original Message- 
From: Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft


Eric
You're intrepid Elecraft list moderator, who is waiting for his flight home 
at Heathrow. I hate jet lag..



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[Elecraft] MH2 Microphone forsale

2013-09-29 Thread ed
Excess to my needs selling my Elecraft Mh2 mic for 45 dollars shipped non
smoking shack or swap for MH3

 

Ed

Reply to w...@tampabay.rr.com

 

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[Elecraft] KXPD3 and single-lever paddles

2013-09-29 Thread Dennis L. Haarsager
Although I've been licensed since 1965 and able to put some sort of HF
signal on the air during almost all of that time, my activity level was
relatively low (a couple of hours a year) from 1977 through 2011 due to
career and family.  For the past two years, I've been semi-retired and
getting my activity level up, but I'm frustrated that my CW sending without
mistakes has plateaued in the low 20s whereas my receiving ability is still
over 30 wpm.  At first I thought I was just out of practice but, believe
me, I've done a lot of off-the-air practice.

I have a nice K8RA dual lever paddle that I use with my K3 and the KXPD3
for my KX3, which of course is an iambic paddle.  I have the same problem
sending with both and have experimented with a number of settings.  The
KXPD3 was initially worse, but the Elecraft mod kit was an improvement so
it's now on a par with the K8RA paddle.

Recently LA3ZA posted here and included a link to his excellent blog.
 There I found an article on single-lever paddles and their use by many
high speed operators (tusen takk, Sverre).  
http://la3za.blogspot.com/2013/06/the-advantage-of-single-lever-paddle.html
 I see, too, that Begali's HST model for high speed work is single lever.

This led me to think that maybe what's caused my sending to decline in the
last 35 years is that I've gotten old -- more specifically, that I've
gotten arthritis which is fairly pronounced in my right forefinger (it now
takes a dogleg to the left and there's a nodule on the joint nearest the
tip).  So my ability to squeeze the paddles as fast as my CW brain is
working  is probably impaired over what it was back in the day.

So that leads to some questions.  Does this theory make sense to anyone
else?  Has anyone switched from iambic to single-lever because of this?
 Improvements?  Has anyone put a non-iambic paddle on Elecraft's wish list?
 Does anyone besides Begali make a single-lever paddle for the KX3 (I'm
tempted by its Adventure Mono model)?

73,
Dennis Haarsager, N7DH
Hillsboro, Virginia
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[Elecraft] QRP

2013-09-29 Thread Tony Castellano
Last evening I had my best CW QRP contact yet. Running 0.1 Watts (100 milli 
Watts) to my wire antenna (OCF) I worked Japan, JA7BXS and received a 559 
signal report. My QTH is in Hopewell Juction, NY which is close to 
Poughkeepsie, so this equates
to 67,105 miles per Watt. I was using my KX3 by the way.
I only work CW QRP, and to date, I have 182 countries.  

Tony Castellano W1ZMB
tcaste...@optonline.net
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6
N401TC
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD3 and single-lever paddles

2013-09-29 Thread Jim Hoge





Dennis,

I have a number of keys, both single lever and iambic and I most certainly 
understand the arthritis comments. If I have been in the shop or out in the 
yard and working with my hands, I am definitely QLF for a time afterwards.  I 
don't know that it really makes a difference whether I am on a single lever or 
iambic key but I have found that either wider spacing between the thumb and 
finger pieces or a wide single lever seems to be better suited to my stiff 
hands. Try something as simple as a stick on footpad or rubber bumper to get 
wider spacing and see how it feels. From there, you can fabricate a permanent 
solution if it is to your liking. I intentionally omitted naming what I use, 
choosing to focus on the width of the fingerpiece(s). 

73,
Jim W5QM
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Re: [Elecraft] QRP

2013-09-29 Thread stan levandowski
Nice going, Tony.  And you were still only 30 dB (approx 5 S Units) down 
from  a 100 watt station! 

 72, Stan WB2LQF
 
 
 On Sun, Sep 29, 2013 at 10:49 AM, Tony Castellano wrote:
 
  Last evening I had my best CW QRP contact yet. Running 0.1 Watts (100 
milli Watts) to my wire antenna (OCF) I worked Japan, JA7BXS and 
received a 559 signal report. My QTH is in Hopewell Juction, NY which is 
close to Poughkeepsie, so this equates

to 67,105 miles per Watt. I was using my KX3 by the way.
I only work CW QRP, and to date, I have 182 countries.
Tony Castellano W1ZMB
tcaste...@optonline.net
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6
N401TC
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[Elecraft] Antenna Suggestions

2013-09-29 Thread Chuck Smallhouse
Vic, have you considered a Spider beam ?  They are light and small in 
diameter and volume.  It might fit within the constraints or your 
apartment/shack roof top, and wouldn't have to be raised very 
high.  DXpedition stations seem to favor them.


GL es 73,  Chuck  W7CS

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

2013-09-29 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy

Hello Vic,

If you have not done this already, it would be wise to include in any model 
all nearby metallic objects such as gutters, downpipes, etc, *before* you 
cut any wire.  Such objects can have a profound effect on the horizontal or 
vertical pattern (or both) of an antenna, as I am sure you know.  If the 
surface of the roof is metal, then a metal grid can be used to represent the 
roof.  If the roof is made of concrete, brick or stone, the roof becomes 
more difficult to model.  I am not certain that I know how to model 
concrete, brick or stone objects correctly.


73,

Geoff
LX2AO


On September 28, 2013 at 6:47 AM, Vic, K2VCO wrote:


I am moving to an apartment on the top floor of a 10 story building. I 
have access to the roof which has a 30' x 10' flat space. On one edge of 
this space is a building 9' high with a flat roof of about 10' x 20'. I 
can put up antennas on top of this little building and on the flat area 
mentioned above.


snip

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Re: [Elecraft] National Hamfest, Newark Showground

2013-09-29 Thread Dave
I was there as well and, after listening to the Flexradio talk later on, 
decided to get a KX3 from the dealer located next to the Elecraft 
demonstration area. Well, it wasn't just Elecraft but if you were there you 
would know where I meant.


I had a bit of a surprise when I got home in that I had not realised that I 
had bought the KX3-K rather than what I now realise I should have asked for, 
the KX3-F, that being the ready built version!


However, after getting an anti-static mat and wrist band (I had been meaning 
to get these for some time) I started to work through the instructions and 
finished it at about 3pm this afternoon  I could have been quicker but I 
decided to make sure I had done everything correctly.


I'm pleased to say that it switched on and worked first go and I'm now 
working through the instruction manual to learn about what it can do.  I 
also need to put the paddles together as I decided to get those rather than 
the microphone.


So, KX3 #5111 is alive and hopefully will soon be heard on the air!

Oh, BTW, if there are any FISTS or CWops members on here, I hope to be more 
active on their frequencies than I have been up until now.


Dave (G0DJA)

- Original Message - 
From: David G4DMP

Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2013 8:57 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] National Hamfest, Newark Showground



I had the privilege of attending Eric's excellent presentation on the
KX3, etc, at the National Hamfest today. It was very well attended, the
entire lecture room being filled and people standing at the back. It was
good to hear first hand about the development of the KX3 from its early
beginnings to final production and beyond.

I note that several people were 'filming' the proceedings on their cell
phones. Doubtless some of these will appear on Youtube in due course.

Good work Eric.

73 de David G4DMP


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[Elecraft] K2 Mic Configuration

2013-09-29 Thread Steve Anne Ray
K2 mic configuration.   I use computer jumpers for the mic headers (get them
at Radio Shack), you don't need the  resistor in the 5V on the mic header
unless you are using a electrodynamic mic, like a computer mic.  I normally
leave the 5V line unjumpered.   I have some old computer boards, so I found
a 1K surface mount resistor on one of the old boards, took a jumper and used
my Dremel tool to cut away the short, then soldered the 1K surface mount
resistor to the jumper.   I then checked to make sure I had the 1K
resistance across the jumper.   This was how I got a resistor for the
jumper, for use with a electrodynamic mic.  All the other pins are jumpered
across, with unmodified jumpers (direct shorts).  Realize I created the
jumper with the resistor to bias the 5V line for experimentation when I was
trying various mics.   I now only use my HC5 element in an old Kenwood MC50
Mic.   There is no need for a bias resistor with the standard Heil Mics.
Heil does make a mic for Icom rigs which requires a bias resistor.

 

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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD3 and single-lever paddles

2013-09-29 Thread Bob



Hi Dennis,

 Here is a single lever paddle for your consideration:

http://www.americanmorse.com/bushwhacker.htm

73,
Bob
K2TK   ex KN2TKR (1956)  K2TKR




On 9/29/2013 10:25 AM, Dennis L. Haarsager wrote:


So that leads to some questions.  Does this theory make sense to anyone
else?  Has anyone switched from iambic to single-lever because of this?
  Improvements?  Has anyone put a non-iambic paddle on Elecraft's wish list?
  Does anyone besides Begali make a single-lever paddle for the KX3 (I'm
tempted by its Adventure Mono model)?

73,
Dennis Haarsager, N7DH
Hillsboro, Virginia
__



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[Elecraft] FW: RE: K2 Mic Configuration

2013-09-29 Thread Gary W. Hvizdak
On Sun Sep 29 2013 at 12:06:52 EDT Steve wrote ...

K2 mic configuration.  I use computer jumpers for the mic headers ...

--- - - - ---

Steve,

If you are going to be experimenting, then I suggest the Rework
Eliminator(TM) K2 Internal Mic Adaptor (IMA).  It supports jumper
configurable wiring of the pin-out as well as seven jumper selectable bias
resistances between 820 and 10k Ohms.  All Alinco, Elecraft, Heil, Icom,
Kenwood, Ten-Tec, and Yaesu 8-pin Foster microphone pin-outs are supported.
And best of all, you don't have to disassemble the radio to change
configurations!  All that's required is removal of the left side panel!

See http://www.unpcbs.com/#rework_eliminator_TM_products for a brief
description, or visit http://www.unpcbs.com/adaptor/ for full details.

73,
Gary  KI4GGX
(webmaster)


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Re: [Elecraft] National Hamfest, Newark Showground

2013-09-29 Thread David G4DMP
In a recent message, Dave d...@g0dja.co.uk writes
I had a bit of a surprise when I got home in that I had not realised
that I had bought the KX3-K rather than what I now realise I should
have asked for, the KX3-F, that being the ready built version!

Not to worry, Dave, that is unless you paid for the factory built
version, in which case you need to ask for a refund. You have evidently
built it with no problems.  In many ways, self-assembly is to be
preferred as by assembling it oneself it gives a greater understanding
on how it all goes together.

Oh, BTW, if there are any FISTS or CWops members on here, I hope to be
more active on their frequencies than I have been up until now.

Yes, will listen out for you on 7028 kHz.  Also, 7030 kHz is the G-QRP
frequency. Listen out also for G3UCK and M0XDF/2E0XDF; they are keen
FISTS members too.

73 de David G4DMP
FISTS No. 13240

-- 
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
 | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
 | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

2013-09-29 Thread Mel Farrer
Hello, 

The way I model the ugly stuff is too use the end range of the ground type and 
see the effect.  Depending on the antenna model, AGL etc.  The difference can 
be minor or major.  But I use that to see if I am going to have a problem.

Mel, K6KBE





 From: Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy lx...@pt.lu
To: k2vco@gmail.com 
Cc: elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2013 8:57 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent
 

Hello Vic,

If you have not done this already, it would be wise to include in any model 
all nearby metallic objects such as gutters, downpipes, etc, *before* you 
cut any wire.  Such objects can have a profound effect on the horizontal or 
vertical pattern (or both) of an antenna, as I am sure you know.  If the 
surface of the roof is metal, then a metal grid can be used to represent the 
roof.  If the roof is made of concrete, brick or stone, the roof becomes 
more difficult to model.  I am not certain that I know how to model 
concrete, brick or stone objects correctly.

73,

Geoff
LX2AO


On September 28, 2013 at 6:47 AM, Vic, K2VCO wrote:


 I am moving to an apartment on the top floor of a 10 story building. I 
 have access to the roof which has a 30' x 10' flat space. On one edge of 
 this space is a building 9' high with a flat roof of about 10' x 20'. I 
 can put up antennas on top of this little building and on the flat area 
 mentioned above.

snip

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Re: [Elecraft] National Hamfest, Newark Showground

2013-09-29 Thread Dave

Thanks David,

Yes, I paid the show reduced price for the kit version, I checked when I 
realised, but the added cost of the paddle meant I didn't fully grasp the 
difference in price at the time...


I tend to keep clear of kits as i have so many unstarted projects that it 
sometimes means I never get arround to finishing things.  However, as there 
was no soldering and no SMD installation to do and because Kate is away this 
weekend, I am able to do what I want to do today :-)


I'm also a G-QRP Club member (number 3247) so I will also look out on the 
QRP frequencies as well.


Cheers - Dave (G0DJA)


- Original Message - 
From: David G4DMP 

Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2013 4:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] National Hamfest, Newark Showground



Oh, BTW, if there are any FISTS or CWops members on here, I hope to be
more active on their frequencies than I have been up until now.


Yes, will listen out for you on 7028 kHz.  Also, 7030 kHz is the G-QRP
frequency. Listen out also for G3UCK and M0XDF/2E0XDF; they are keen
FISTS members too.

73 de David G4DMP
FISTS No. 13240


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[Elecraft] New Elecraft KX3

2013-09-29 Thread Dave

Hi all,

As I have already waded into a thread I thought I should introduce myself 
properly.


Name is Dave and I live in a place called Bolsover in Derbyshire, UK, with 
my partner Kate and two black cats.  I have a grown up daughter and a son 
from a previous marriage and a 5 year old grand-daughter. I'm also now a 
pGrandad to Kate's seven grandsons, so life gets hectic at times.  Hence my 
avoidance of kits under normal circumstances...


Radio related clubs that I belong to include UKuG (UK microwaves for those 
not familiar with SHF in UK :-)  ), G-QRP, FISTS, CWops and various QRP and 
CW based groups that I would need to dig out the details of if challenged to 
give my membership number, such as the Zombies (no, not those sorts of 
zombies, the QRP ones).


Most of my activity is 23cm and 10GHz.  I have a 24GHz rig as well that I 
inherited and that is one of the reasons for getting the KX3.  I'm hoping to 
get the 144MHz module, when it's released, as the 24GHz unit uses 144MHz as 
the output IF.  Now, I could use the FT817 but I already need that for the 
432MHz output from the 10GHz gear and 2M is used as a talkback, so this 
involves much plugging and unplugging of the 2M cables to use the FT817 with 
the 24GHz unit.  That is where another rig with 2M will be useful. 
Especially one with good receiver characteristics and is very portable.


I also spend some time away from home at times and a portable rig, such as 
the KX3, might encourage me to have a go on the bands rather than sitting in 
the bar drinking too much...


Hope to work some of you on the bands.

Dave (G0DJA) 


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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD3 and single-lever paddles

2013-09-29 Thread Bill Gerth
Dennis,

As one who is afflicted with peripheral neuropathy, I can somewhat empathize 
with your situation.  Although I do have demonstrated decreased nerve 
conduction velocity and numbness in my fingers, I'm still able to manage iambic 
keying in the 35-40 wpm range.  If you're wanting to try single-lever keying, 
you don't need a single-lever key.  Just use your iambic paddles in 
single-lever fashion, that is do not squeeze, but close the dit and dah 
contacts in sequence, not at the same time.  As a CW instructor, I encourage my 
students to get an iambic paddle at the outset since it can be used in either 
mode as their preference dictates after they try both methods.  A single-lever 
paddle rules out iambic.  At least one other responder suggested experimenting 
with varying the mechanical width of the lever finger piece(s).  I have several 
iambic paddles and I do find a wider spacing more to my liking.  

I think every CW operator has a unique set of parameters that work best for 
him/her.  I'd recommend that you go ahead and try single-lever keying with your 
iambic paddles as a first step.  Hopefully, you'll be able to then tweak other 
parameters to get where you want to be.  Since you're still above 30 wpm in 
copying ability, maybe you can find the sweet spot combination of paddle 
configuration that will make it happen for you.

Good luck!

73

BILL GERTH, W4RK
Jefferson City, MO
First Licensed 1954
CWOPS #459
4 States QRP Group
KX3 (S/N 112)

On Sep 29, 2013, at 9:25 AM, Dennis L. Haarsager haarsa...@gmail.com wrote:

 Although I've been licensed since 1965 and able to put some sort of HF
 signal on the air during almost all of that time, my activity level was
 relatively low (a couple of hours a year) from 1977 through 2011 due to
 career and family.  For the past two years, I've been semi-retired and
 getting my activity level up, but I'm frustrated that my CW sending without
 mistakes has plateaued in the low 20s whereas my receiving ability is still
 over 30 wpm.  At first I thought I was just out of practice but, believe
 me, I've done a lot of off-the-air practice.
 
 I have a nice K8RA dual lever paddle that I use with my K3 and the KXPD3
 for my KX3, which of course is an iambic paddle.  I have the same problem
 sending with both and have experimented with a number of settings.  The
 KXPD3 was initially worse, but the Elecraft mod kit was an improvement so
 it's now on a par with the K8RA paddle.
 
 Recently LA3ZA posted here and included a link to his excellent blog.
 There I found an article on single-lever paddles and their use by many
 high speed operators (tusen takk, Sverre).  
 http://la3za.blogspot.com/2013/06/the-advantage-of-single-lever-paddle.html
 I see, too, that Begali's HST model for high speed work is single lever.
 
 This led me to think that maybe what's caused my sending to decline in the
 last 35 years is that I've gotten old -- more specifically, that I've
 gotten arthritis which is fairly pronounced in my right forefinger (it now
 takes a dogleg to the left and there's a nodule on the joint nearest the
 tip).  So my ability to squeeze the paddles as fast as my CW brain is
 working  is probably impaired over what it was back in the day.
 
 So that leads to some questions.  Does this theory make sense to anyone
 else?  Has anyone switched from iambic to single-lever because of this?
 Improvements?  Has anyone put a non-iambic paddle on Elecraft's wish list?
 Does anyone besides Begali make a single-lever paddle for the KX3 (I'm
 tempted by its Adventure Mono model)?
 
 73,
 Dennis Haarsager, N7DH
 Hillsboro, Virginia
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Re: [Elecraft] k2 vco alignment

2013-09-29 Thread Christophe F8ACF-56
goodnight,

I made ​​a mistake for T5, I put the black toroid T3 while they should be 
yellow are both the same size only the color differentiated

If this can help you.

73 F8ACF K2 # 7369

 
73 , Christophe F8ACF-56



 De : Rob Gault kc2...@gmail.com
À : elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Envoyé le : Samedi 28 septembre 2013 22h16
Objet : [Elecraft] k2 vco alignment
 

K2 #7449 VCO alignment difficulty.

Cannot get 4.0 MHz R30 voltage to change at all - it measures 7.97V.  Have
confirmed all the cap values, varicap diodes are correct parts, T5 wound
and wired correctly.

Have scoped the area comparing to a second operational K2  the wave forms
look and behave the same as the rigs are tuned. The voltage on R30 is
simply too high at 4.0 MHz.

I set the K2 to 3.5MHz and adjusted L30 for the lowest voltage, this gave
the following results:

3.50   4.14    4.00    7.97
7.00   4.39    7.30    6.30
10.00   5.08   10.15    5.86
14.00   3.84   15.00    5.98
18.00   4.42   18.20    4.67
21.00   3.83   21.45    5.38
24.80   5.92   25.00    6.40
28.00   4.64   28.80    5.66    (29.70   6.87)

Should I continue the build or what else should I check?

THANKS  73,  Rob  KC2VMP
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD3 and single-lever paddles

2013-09-29 Thread Bill W4ZV
Dennis L. Haarsager wrote
 my ability to squeeze the paddles as fast as my CW brain is
 working  is probably impaired over what it was back in the day.

As Sverre correctly points out in his article:

The issue must be tolerance to errors, not just efficiency.

For those who truly squeeze as required by true Iambic (as opposed to many
who use a dual paddle key as a single lever in non-Iambic), timing the
squeeze is more critical than slapping a single lever back and forth.  For
the HST guys, timing at ~60 WPM rates becomes very critical.  For older
hands that have lost some fine motor control, timing is also critical
although at much lower speeds.

For sending at typical QRP speeds, there's no need to spend $335 for a
Begali Adventurer.  Here's a video of the $30 Whiterook MK-33 sending at ~25
WPM:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embeddedv=xK01E39GQ38#t=23

For another $10, they make a leg strap which is nice for portable or mobile
operation.  I recently gave a MK-33 and leg strap to my stepson Christian
KF4LXB for his birthday.  Here's his report:

http://www.uwharrieqrp.com/2013/09/new-addition-to-portable-kit-whiterook.html 

Of course you can also roll your own with some old relay parts.  I did this
for my KD1JV ATS-3 Transceiver that I sometimes use for SOTA activations:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wutov8MVr6Q

BTW you're near several SOTA summits in case you like to hike and operate
outdoors with your KX3.  

73,  Bill  W4ZV




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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD3 and single-lever paddles

2013-09-29 Thread Stephen Roberts
Bill,

I've had a LOT of different keys and also settled on the Whiterook as a 
knockabout QRP key. I think it's really an excellent key. Lots of fun to use as 
a sideswiper too, and just a tad cheaper thanwell just about everything 
other than a couple of nails in a plank and a hack saw blade!

I got the leg strap and it works fine although I found myself just holding on 
to it most of the time, but the leg strap allows you to have a free hand for 
logging etc so a nice option to have.

72,
Steve
W1SFR



On Sep 29, 2013, at 4:07 PM, Bill W4ZV wrote:

 Dennis L. Haarsager wrote
 my ability to squeeze the paddles as fast as my CW brain is
 working  is probably impaired over what it was back in the day.
 
 As Sverre correctly points out in his article:
 
 The issue must be tolerance to errors, not just efficiency.
 
 For those who truly squeeze as required by true Iambic (as opposed to many
 who use a dual paddle key as a single lever in non-Iambic), timing the
 squeeze is more critical than slapping a single lever back and forth.  For
 the HST guys, timing at ~60 WPM rates becomes very critical.  For older
 hands that have lost some fine motor control, timing is also critical
 although at much lower speeds.
 
 For sending at typical QRP speeds, there's no need to spend $335 for a
 Begali Adventurer.  Here's a video of the $30 Whiterook MK-33 sending at ~25
 WPM:
 
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embeddedv=xK01E39GQ38#t=23
 
 For another $10, they make a leg strap which is nice for portable or mobile
 operation.  I recently gave a MK-33 and leg strap to my stepson Christian
 KF4LXB for his birthday.  Here's his report:
 
 http://www.uwharrieqrp.com/2013/09/new-addition-to-portable-kit-whiterook.html
  
 
 Of course you can also roll your own with some old relay parts.  I did this
 for my KD1JV ATS-3 Transceiver that I sometimes use for SOTA activations:
 
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wutov8MVr6Q
 
 BTW you're near several SOTA summits in case you like to hike and operate
 outdoors with your KX3.  
 
 73,  Bill  W4ZV
 
 
 
 
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KXPD3-and-single-lever-paddles-tp7579364p7579380.html
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[Elecraft] [KAT500} Extra lockwasher in kit?

2013-09-29 Thread Jim N7US
I'm almost finished assembling a KAT500, and I haven't found a step calling
for the lock washer, #4, interior tooth (P/N E700010).  Do any of you KAT500
assemblers remember having an extra?  The parts list says only one was
included in the miscellaneous bag.

73, Jim N7US





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Re: [Elecraft] [KAT500} Extra lockwasher in kit?

2013-09-29 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jim,

If you had 2 (or more), then you can just keep the extra.  Hardware 
items are weighed, not counted, so occasionally, you may find extras.


Of course, if you were short, that is a different matter and an email to 
pa...@elecraft.com will have one to you in a few days.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/29/2013 4:42 PM, Jim N7US wrote:

I'm almost finished assembling a KAT500, and I haven't found a step calling
for the lock washer, #4, interior tooth (P/N E700010).  Do any of you KAT500
assemblers remember having an extra?  The parts list says only one was
included in the miscellaneous bag.




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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD3 and single-lever paddles

2013-09-29 Thread Sverre Holm (LA3ZA)
You're welcome, Dennis - bare hyggelig!

(Your last name sounds to me as if you are among that approximate half of
people of Norwegian descent that live in the US rather than in Norway, and
thus perhaps would understand some Norwegian.)


Dennis L. Haarsager wrote
 Recently LA3ZA posted here and included a link to his excellent blog.
  There I found an article on single-lever paddles and their use by many
 high speed operators (tusen takk, Sverre).  
 http://la3za.blogspot.com/2013/06/the-advantage-of-single-lever-paddle.html

 




-
Sverre, LA3ZA

K2 #2198, K3 #3391,
LA3ZA Blog: http://la3za.blogspot.com,
LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to K2 modifications: 
http://la3za.blogspot.com/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2.html
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Re: [Elecraft] [KAT500} Extra lockwasher in kit?

2013-09-29 Thread Jim N7US
Makes sense, Don, but this one is listed on the parts list but I don't see a
use for it.

73, Jim N7US



-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
Sent: September 29, 2013 16:02
To: Jim N7US
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KAT500} Extra lockwasher in kit?

Jim,

If you had 2 (or more), then you can just keep the extra.  Hardware items
are weighed, not counted, so occasionally, you may find extras.

Of course, if you were short, that is a different matter and an email to
pa...@elecraft.com will have one to you in a few days.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/29/2013 4:42 PM, Jim N7US wrote:
 I'm almost finished assembling a KAT500, and I haven't found a step 
 calling for the lock washer, #4, interior tooth (P/N E700010).  Do any 
 of you KAT500 assemblers remember having an extra?  The parts list 
 says only one was included in the miscellaneous bag.






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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Blinking Annunciators

2013-09-29 Thread ROYCE RAINWATER
Bill, w4zv, thanks for the post on the K2 Blinking Annunciators.  Now I
know what it is now how do I turn off the fast play on cw memories(c,f,c)?
I'm slowly learning.  Thanks!

Royce, ke5tc


On Sat, Sep 28, 2013 at 11:54 AM, Bill W4ZV btipp...@alum.mit.edu wrote:

 I don't recall where I found this but hopefully it will be of help to K2
 owners:

 K2 Blinking Annunciators

 Decimal right of 1 kHz digit =  LOCK On
 MHz Decimal=  SCAN On
 Decimal left of Mode Ind=  AGC Off
 NB Ind=  LO NB
 THRESHOLD
 On
 A or B Ind   =  SPLIT On
 CW Mode Ind   =  CW TEST On
 CW Mode Ind CFCF  =  FAST PLAY On (CW
 memories)
 USB/LSB Mode Ind=  VOX On

 73,  Bill  W4ZV



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Re: [Elecraft] [KAT500} Extra lockwasher in kit?

2013-09-29 Thread Sam Morgan

last instruction on page 26
and figure 14 on page 27

On 9/29/2013 4:35 PM, Jim N7US wrote:

Makes sense, Don, but this one is listed on the parts list but I don't see a
use for it.

73, Jim N7US



-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com]
Sent: September 29, 2013 16:02
To: Jim N7US
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KAT500} Extra lockwasher in kit?

Jim,

If you had 2 (or more), then you can just keep the extra.  Hardware items
are weighed, not counted, so occasionally, you may find extras.

Of course, if you were short, that is a different matter and an email to
pa...@elecraft.com will have one to you in a few days.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/29/2013 4:42 PM, Jim N7US wrote:

I'm almost finished assembling a KAT500, and I haven't found a step
calling for the lock washer, #4, interior tooth (P/N E700010).  Do any
of you KAT500 assemblers remember having an extra?  The parts list
says only one was included in the miscellaneous bag.



--

GB  73
K5OAI
Sam Morgan

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Re: [Elecraft] [KAT500} Extra lockwasher in kit?

2013-09-29 Thread Sam Morgan

duh that says split not inner star
sorry, I seem to remember the same thing when I assembled mine
but don't remember where it was...

On 9/29/2013 5:14 PM, Sam Morgan wrote:

last instruction on page 26
and figure 14 on page 27

On 9/29/2013 4:35 PM, Jim N7US wrote:

Makes sense, Don, but this one is listed on the parts list but I don't
see a
use for it.

73, Jim N7US



-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com]
Sent: September 29, 2013 16:02
To: Jim N7US
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KAT500} Extra lockwasher in kit?

Jim,

If you had 2 (or more), then you can just keep the extra.  Hardware items
are weighed, not counted, so occasionally, you may find extras.

Of course, if you were short, that is a different matter and an email to
pa...@elecraft.com will have one to you in a few days.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/29/2013 4:42 PM, Jim N7US wrote:

I'm almost finished assembling a KAT500, and I haven't found a step
calling for the lock washer, #4, interior tooth (P/N E700010).  Do any
of you KAT500 assemblers remember having an extra?  The parts list
says only one was included in the miscellaneous bag.





--

GB  73
K5OAI
Sam Morgan
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[Elecraft] Wanted: K3/100

2013-09-29 Thread Tim Cook
Please send details to include serial number, options and price shipped to zip 
45324 if you have one for sale.

I have a loaded K2/10 that I would consider trading plus cash if someone wanted 
to do that.

Thanks
Tim
NZ8J



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[Elecraft] FW: Re: K2 Blinking Annunciators

2013-09-29 Thread Bill Tippett

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[Elecraft] CW-Skimmer setup question

2013-09-29 Thread Martin

Elecrafters, sorry for slightly off topic.

I run a K3 with LPPan and PowerSDR I/F Stage.
I'm trying to output the I/Q signal via VAC to CW-skimmer, but i get 
only garbage on the skimmer waterfall.


The same setup works fine when i switch off I/Q and only direct the 
normal audio to cw-skimmer acting as a 3khz-Radio.


With my homemade SI-570-based SDR and PSDR 2.xx the I/Q output to 
CW-Skimmer works fine.

Any suggestions?


--

Ohne CW ist es nur CB..

73, Martin DM4iM
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Re: [Elecraft] Wanted: KAF2 module

2013-09-29 Thread Fred Jensen

On 9/27/2013 6:38 AM, Allan Taylor wrote:

It doesn't have to work as a filter either! It just needs to give some
audio gain
and be cheap.



I might have one ... I know that sounds funny but it's true.  I don't 
have time now, but after the Cal QSO Party next weekend, if you haven't 
found one and remind me, I'll look in my Misc Elecraft box.  Sometimes I 
forget I have something and buy it again. I'm sure I'm the only one. :-)


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2013 Cal QSO Party 5-6 Oct 2013
- www.cqp.org

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[Elecraft] K2 - 20M dead

2013-09-29 Thread Mike Murray
I thought I'd give a RTTY contest a try this weekend so I dove in.  Found
out after switching to 15M that I had my filters wrong so had to stop, open
up the rig and reset.  Everything seemed to be OK after that until I tried
transmitting on 20M - dead as a doornail!  Receives on 20 just fine,
transmits OK on all other bands, but nothing on 20 in any mode.  Even
occasionally shows hi current on 20 with no actual RF output.

Anyone have any idea on where I should start troubleshooting?

Mike - W0AG
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Re: [Elecraft] [KAT500} Extra lockwasher in kit?

2013-09-29 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Jim: 

All 29 #4 interior tooth lock washers are called for in the assembly
procedure. It sounds like you left one out somewhere.

Here's where they are used (looking at the Rev F4 Kit Assembly manual but I
believe the page and figure numbers have not changed for quite a while now)/

You got a total of 29 #4 interior tooth lock washers packaged in two bags,
one with 17 washers and one with 12 washers:

7 are used to mount the power supply on the bottom cover (Fig 11, page 14) 

2 are used mounting the rear panel terminal strip (Fig 18, page 17)

8 are used to mount the RF INPUT and RF OUTPUT SO-239 connectors on the rear
panel (Fig 20, page 18). 

2 are used to mount the Power Entry module on the rear panel (Fig 22, page
19).

7 are used to mount the rectifier board on the Z-bracket (Fig 29, page 23). 

3 are used in the top cover interlock actuator (Fig 63, page 42). 

73, Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim N7US
Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2013 2:35 PM
To: d...@w3fpr.com
Cc: 'Elecraft Reflector'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KAT500} Extra lockwasher in kit?

Makes sense, Don, but this one is listed on the parts list but I don't see a
use for it.

73, Jim N7US



-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com]
Sent: September 29, 2013 16:02
To: Jim N7US
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KAT500} Extra lockwasher in kit?

Jim,

If you had 2 (or more), then you can just keep the extra.  Hardware items
are weighed, not counted, so occasionally, you may find extras.

Of course, if you were short, that is a different matter and an email to
pa...@elecraft.com will have one to you in a few days.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/29/2013 4:42 PM, Jim N7US wrote:
 I'm almost finished assembling a KAT500, and I haven't found a step 
 calling for the lock washer, #4, interior tooth (P/N E700010).  Do any 
 of you KAT500 assemblers remember having an extra?  The parts list 
 says only one was included in the miscellaneous bag.






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Re: [Elecraft] [KAT500} Extra lockwasher in kit?

2013-09-29 Thread Jim N7US
Ron,

I think you're referring to the KPA500, not the KAT500.  I'm sorry to have
confused you.

The KAT500 has only one on the parts list.

73, Jim N7US



-Original Message-

Jim: 

All 29 #4 interior tooth lock washers are called for in the assembly
procedure. It sounds like you left one out somewhere.

Here's where they are used (looking at the Rev F4 Kit Assembly manual but I
believe the page and figure numbers have not changed for quite a while now)/

You got a total of 29 #4 interior tooth lock washers packaged in two bags,
one with 17 washers and one with 12 washers:

7 are used to mount the power supply on the bottom cover (Fig 11, page 14) 

2 are used mounting the rear panel terminal strip (Fig 18, page 17)

8 are used to mount the RF INPUT and RF OUTPUT SO-239 connectors on the rear
panel (Fig 20, page 18). 

2 are used to mount the Power Entry module on the rear panel (Fig 22, page
19).

7 are used to mount the rectifier board on the Z-bracket (Fig 29, page 23). 

3 are used in the top cover interlock actuator (Fig 63, page 42). 

73, Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-

Makes sense, Don, but this one is listed on the parts list but I don't see a
use for it.

73, Jim N7US



-Original Message-

Jim,

If you had 2 (or more), then you can just keep the extra.  Hardware items
are weighed, not counted, so occasionally, you may find extras.

Of course, if you were short, that is a different matter and an email to
pa...@elecraft.com will have one to you in a few days.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/29/2013 4:42 PM, Jim N7US wrote:
 I'm almost finished assembling a KAT500, and I haven't found a step 
 calling for the lock washer, #4, interior tooth (P/N E700010).  Do any 
 of you KAT500 assemblers remember having an extra?  The parts list 
 says only one was included in the miscellaneous bag.



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[Elecraft] Something's not right with my KAT and KPA

2013-09-29 Thread Tom
I have the full Kline and I've always thought something was not quite right 
with my KAT500, but i had an antenna that was below 2:1 in swr and it didn't 
run.
However today I connected my new beam and it is below 2:1 from 14.2 to 14.3 so 
it was time for the tuner.
I put the kpa in standby, set the power on the k3 to 40 watts (tried 30 and 60 
no difference) and hit the tune button starting at 14.0 and went up by 20 kHz 
over the whole range. Everything seemed fine if I transmitted with the kpa at 
the last tune. However if I then changed the frequency going from let's say 
14.2 to 14.070, when I went to transmit at 14.070 all the swr lights went on 
and I got a fault in the kpa, fault 9 I.e. high reflected power. If I then 
initiated a tune, there was no tuning occurring and the k3 would give 5.7 to 1 
and just sit there. The kat would not tune at all. If I did it again, all of a 
sudden it would show 1.2 to one and transmit would then be okay. If I then went 
back to 14.2 again and try to transmit again I would get the high reflected 
power and if I tuned it would say something like 4.1:1 but then be normalthe 
second time I hit the tune.
So I just went up and down retuning and just in tune mode I would see the same 
thing if I changed the frequencies by a large amount.
So what gives? What am I doing wrong?
Thanks, Tom


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Re: [Elecraft] Something's not right with my KAT and KPA

2013-09-29 Thread Tom
Yes the kat3 is in bypass. Also tried this with two different antennas with the 
same result


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 Original message 
From: Tom tom...@videotron.ca 
Date: 30/09/2013  01:06  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Gary Gregory vk1zzg...@gmail.com 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Something's not right with my KAT and KPA 
 
Yes, the kat3 is in bypass. I also tried this with two different antennas with 
the same results.



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[Elecraft] K3 digital modes

2013-09-29 Thread Alan Grant
Good morning Elecrafters

 

I have not been able to make my K3 decode digital signals, and have seen
many posts talking about Tigertronics Signalink USB, do I deed one of these
or some other device

To get into PSK31 etc, or do I need to fun some software to get things
going. I see that many stations are using these modes and I would like to
get involved as well

Your assistance will be gratefully appreciated.

Alan Grant

VK4KO

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