Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

He's also a helluva nice guy.

He often helps out on the "pre-net" for the Sunday
Collins Collectors Assn 14.263 net at 2000Z.

73, Charlie k3ICH



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On
Behalf Of Gary K9GS
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2015 11:34 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements -
just a little OT

W9EVT attended the W9DXCC convention in Chicago
this past weekend.



On 9/16/2015 10:10 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
> This discussion of shack and desk arrangements
inspired me to look further
> into it . . .   Well, not too much further.  I
simply went to Google
> Images and entered ³Amateur Radio Stations.²
Some Elecraft-centered 
> setups appeared, as one might imagine.  But
here¹s one that just blew 
> me
> away:


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Re: [Elecraft] On VHF & UHF radios

[Edward R Cole]

While its true there is a drop off in numbers of serious weak-signal 
hams, I consider myself one.

I have antennas and equipment for 50/144/222/432/900/1296/2400/3400/10,368 MHz
I do eme on 144 and 1296 and building for 50 and 3400 eme.

Being in Alaska really is in the VHF wilderness as there are few 
stations interested in weak-signal.  Thus use of satellite in 1980 - 
2002 when the phase-3 sats were functioning (high orbit linear 
transponders).  I bought a FT-847 in 1998 specifically for satellite 
and it worked well.  Later I used it for 2m-eme, but it was not 
especially good on HF.


So about 2008 I determined a better approach was to acquire a 
very-good HF radio and marry it to good transverters to get best 
performance on VHF+.  In 2010 I bought the K3/10 and a DEMI 144-28 
transverter.  I had used/built some of their kits before (first in 
1996), so I decided to get the full line from 144 to 1296.  I had 
already purchase a 10-GHz transverter and two 3456 transverter kits 
in 1999 (finally built one 3400-144 kit this spring).


The new L-series transverters from DEMI came out in 2010 so I 
upgraded to that model 144-1296.  They work very well with the 
K3.  In my not-modest opinion they come close to the best combo one 
can buy (db6nt is better but at over twice the cost).  I sold my 
FT-847, reluctantly, but that financed my 222 and 432 transverters.


I'm not convinced trading a FT-847 for the TS2000x is necessarily a 
step up - but I never have used the Kenwood radio.  I am certain my 
K3+transverters will run circles around the Kenwood.  Of course its 
not all in one big box.


About three years ago I began building DEMI transverters for hams as 
a (very) small business.  I am now building the whole line from 
50-MHz to 10-GHz.  Almost getting too busy - but no complaints as 
what I make, funds my hobby.


I have come to conclusion that I enjoy the design/construction part 
of the hobby as much as operating (maybe more).
I am well into my new design main station control panel which should 
improve my reliability factor plus concentrates some of the multiple 
box syndrome.


One of my long-range projects is to marry the K3 and KX3 into a 
cross-band satellite system: KX3-2M and K3 + higher band transverter 
(432 or 1268 or 2401 or 10450).  New satellites coming soon will 
bring back needs for multi-mode VHF equipment (P3E may actually get launched).


Long answer but I can agree with Bob and Jim.

73, Ed - KL7UW

--
From: Jim Lowman 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] On VHF & UHF radios
Message-ID: <55fa00da.1040...@sbcglobal.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

That could be, Bob.

I should have phrased my question more specifically.
My intended use for such a transceiver would be weak-signal work.

I had the 2m option for the K3 but, with its low power output, I sold it
and bought a Kenwood TS-2000X to be dedicated to VHF/UHF operation.
However, this type of operation demands high power (at least 100w) and
an antenna with high gain, so I would have to buy an external amplifier
at any rate.
Thus, I might re-think the 2m option from Elecraft.
It's a bonus that The K3(S) can handle up to nine transverters.

At a convention way back in 2001, I became interested in working the
satellites and bought a Yaesu FT-847.
The interest waned eventually, so I sold the 847 toward the purchase of
the TS-2000X.

And no, I don't plan to use the TS-2000X on HF; not when I have a K3 and
a K3S.

73 de Jim - AD6CW

On 9/16/2015 5:03 AM, Bob McGraw - K4TAX wrote:
> I don't view there are many serious VHF and UHF operators today, i.e.
> sufficient to warrant a high performance radio.  Most are repeater
> users.  Seems that a $39 radio model has been proven to be
> satisfactory to most.
>
> The SAT users do require some unique applications to cross band, split
> frequency and address Doppler shift.  The Tropo users need big
> antennas and lots of power and the EME group even more so.  Oh yes,
> the digital modes make things less complex but still, big antennas,
> good receivers and clean transmitters is still mandatory.
>
> I don't find the current breed of "do it all" radios to have
> outstanding performance on VHF and UHF.
>
> 73
> Bob, K4TAX
> K3S s/n 10,163


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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[Elecraft] K3S Build Progress: 1st power-on

[ae4pb]

Well the Assembly so far has gone pretty well; other than the odd hardware
dance. This is an area that can be improved dramatically without being
overly complex. There's apparently one set of Stainless hardware and the
rest are zinc. I infer from the assembly that all (or nearly all) hardware
that is on the OUTSIDE or mates to outside screws/bolts is stainless.
Everything internal ONLY is zinc. 

 

My Hints/Tips:

1.   Wear surgical/rubber gloves - During assembly I suggest wearing thin
rubber gloves (lowes, home depot..etc.. ). That helps keep oil/fingerprints
off of everything and you get a slight better grip. 

2.   Use a magnetic parts tray - even for the SS hardware it helps as they
have some slight carbon content. 

3.   Use a magnetic tipped screwdriver.

4.   User gravity to put/keep washers on the screws - don't be afraid to
pick up the assembly you're working on and position it such that gravity
helps keep parts where they need to be. Keep it Simply Simple.

5.   Work in a well-lighted area and I'd even suggest a desk/work lamp. I
have plenty of light in my office and the addition of a desk lamp made a
dramatic difference to my work.

6.   Don't mix bags - keep hardware from one bag in it's own container.
Don't mix zinc and stainless J

7.   Don't be distracted - ask the wife, kids, pets, ..etc.. to leave you be
for a bit. I had to dis-assemble/re-assemble the front panel several times
because my better half wanted to share details of something. Being that she
has the higher priority I listened and inadvertently assembled some parts
incorrectly and caught it on verification. 

 

Well I'm past the resistance and first power-on test. Just need to figure
out if/how they packed the TCXO. I have the KREF3 module but can't locate
the TCXO.. not many parts left, 3 modules, the 100w PA and sheet metal .

 

 

Jerry Moore

AE4PB, K3S SN# 10324

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Build Progress: 1st power-on

[Rick Robinson]

Also using a bath towel under your work helps grab those little parts that
amazingly grow legs and wander or jump off.

On Thursday, September 17, 2015, ae...@carolinaheli.com <
ae...@carolinaheli.com> wrote:

> Well the Assembly so far has gone pretty well; other than the odd hardware
> dance. This is an area that can be improved dramatically without being
> overly complex. There's apparently one set of Stainless hardware and the
> rest are zinc. I infer from the assembly that all (or nearly all) hardware
> that is on the OUTSIDE or mates to outside screws/bolts is stainless.
> Everything internal ONLY is zinc.
>
>
>
> My Hints/Tips:
>
> 1.   Wear surgical/rubber gloves - During assembly I suggest wearing thin
> rubber gloves (lowes, home depot..etc.. ). That helps keep oil/fingerprints
> off of everything and you get a slight better grip.
>
> 2.   Use a magnetic parts tray - even for the SS hardware it helps as they
> have some slight carbon content.
>
> 3.   Use a magnetic tipped screwdriver.
>
> 4.   User gravity to put/keep washers on the screws - don't be afraid to
> pick up the assembly you're working on and position it such that gravity
> helps keep parts where they need to be. Keep it Simply Simple.
>
> 5.   Work in a well-lighted area and I'd even suggest a desk/work lamp. I
> have plenty of light in my office and the addition of a desk lamp made a
> dramatic difference to my work.
>
> 6.   Don't mix bags - keep hardware from one bag in it's own container.
> Don't mix zinc and stainless J
>
> 7.   Don't be distracted - ask the wife, kids, pets, ..etc.. to leave you
> be
> for a bit. I had to dis-assemble/re-assemble the front panel several times
> because my better half wanted to share details of something. Being that she
> has the higher priority I listened and inadvertently assembled some parts
> incorrectly and caught it on verification.
>
>
>
> Well I'm past the resistance and first power-on test. Just need to figure
> out if/how they packed the TCXO. I have the KREF3 module but can't locate
> the TCXO.. not many parts left, 3 modules, the 100w PA and sheet metal
> .
>
>
>
>
>
> Jerry Moore
>
> AE4PB, K3S SN# 10324
>
>
>
>
>
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> Message delivered to rickw...@gmail.com 
>


-- 
Rick, W8ZT

Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Build Progress: 1st power-on

[Mike Reublin NF4L]

Ah yes. The lemming washers.

73, Mike NF4L


> On Sep 17, 2015, at 8:42 AM, Rick Robinson  wrote:
> 
> Also using a bath towel under your work helps grab those little parts that
> amazingly grow legs and wander or jump off.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Build Progress: 1st power-on

[Jim Rogers]

The assembly manual is quite clear when it calls for SS (stainless 
steel) hardware.


RE: surgical rubber gloves - I would advise against that. The purpose of 
the anti-static mats and ESD percautions would be defeated by the use of 
any insulating material between you and the boards you are handling. 
Remember the whole purpose is to keep everything at the same potential. 
Remember the old high school physics experiment of the rubber rod and 
the silk cloth?


The TCXO is probably in a small box protected by conductive foam.

73s, Jim, W4ATK
On 9/17/2015 7:30 AM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:

Well the Assembly so far has gone pretty well; other than the odd hardware
dance. This is an area that can be improved dramatically without being
overly complex. There's apparently one set of Stainless hardware and the
rest are zinc. I infer from the assembly that all (or nearly all) hardware
that is on the OUTSIDE or mates to outside screws/bolts is stainless.
Everything internal ONLY is zinc.

  


My Hints/Tips:

1.   Wear surgical/rubber gloves - During assembly I suggest wearing thin
rubber gloves (lowes, home depot..etc.. ). That helps keep oil/fingerprints
off of everything and you get a slight better grip.

2.   Use a magnetic parts tray - even for the SS hardware it helps as they
have some slight carbon content.

3.   Use a magnetic tipped screwdriver.

4.   User gravity to put/keep washers on the screws - don't be afraid to
pick up the assembly you're working on and position it such that gravity
helps keep parts where they need to be. Keep it Simply Simple.

5.   Work in a well-lighted area and I'd even suggest a desk/work lamp. I
have plenty of light in my office and the addition of a desk lamp made a
dramatic difference to my work.

6.   Don't mix bags - keep hardware from one bag in it's own container.
Don't mix zinc and stainless J

7.   Don't be distracted - ask the wife, kids, pets, ..etc.. to leave you be
for a bit. I had to dis-assemble/re-assemble the front panel several times
because my better half wanted to share details of something. Being that she
has the higher priority I listened and inadvertently assembled some parts
incorrectly and caught it on verification.

  


Well I'm past the resistance and first power-on test. Just need to figure
out if/how they packed the TCXO. I have the KREF3 module but can't locate
the TCXO.. not many parts left, 3 modules, the 100w PA and sheet metal .

  

  


Jerry Moore

AE4PB, K3S SN# 10324

  

  


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Re: [Elecraft] Does the K3S/10 have the fans in the case?

[Don Wilhelm]

You are seeing a picture of the K3S/100 if it has fans.
The K3S/10 has a blank panel where the fans for the KPA3A would mount.
Cooling fans are not needed for the K3S/10

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/17/2015 10:57 AM, dw wrote:

Hi all,
I'm seeing pictures of the K3s/10 with the dual fans in the back of the
case.
I suspect that picture is probably from the 100 watt version?
Is that correct?
I would be surprised if the 10 watt version needed cooling fans.

Tnx
N1BBR


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 137, Issue 36

[G4GNX - Alan]

Sounds like a good plan Steve.

73,

Alan. G4GNX

-Original Message- 
From: ad0es 
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 4:30 PM 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 137, Issue 36 


Hi,

When I started putting my K-Line together, and only owned the K3, I made 
cardboard boxes up in the dimensions of
the future equipment I planned on.  I copied the front/back panel pics 
from the elecraft site and scaled to the actual
dimensions & printed.  I then pasted these on the front/back of the 
cardboard mockups. I then moved them around,
picturing how everything would go together.  Helped a lot on cable flow, 
especially for the coax.  The final setup
was totally different than I first pictured!  Its a bit of work, but it 
saved a LOT of rework in the end.  Be sure to consider
where exhaust fans need clearance, etc.  Sit in front of the "rig", 
reach for "knobs", etc. See how the total setup

feels  before you start cutting wood

Steve AD0ES

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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[Mike Flowers]

I started with an old smaller pine kitchen table about 2 feet from the back
wall of the shack.  I walk behind it to do cabling, etc.

On this I built a 3-level riser out of unpainted 5/8" exterior grade plywood
- maybe $40 into the whole thing including cuts at the lumber yard.
Elmer's carpenter's glue and deck screws hold it together.

A 1-1/4" spade bit or a 4" hole saw make routing lines easy.

Not even in the same league with some of the cabinetmaker's masterpieces
I've seen in some shacks, but it's functional.

- 73 and good DX de Mike, K6MKF, President - NCDXC 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of bill
NY9H
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 9:05 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

for shelving , spend a bit more for this one time event...
use multi-ply  'baltic birch" plywood,,,7 or 9 ply...

they have it at  home depot /lowes type stores, but a visit to the rockler
woodworking store was great, as they had some 9 ply on sale .,..

why balticbirch :
http://www.woodworkerssource.com/6_plywood.html

My elecraft / ICOM ACOM shack  in a cabinetNY9H  at QRZ.com

bill ny9h

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Build Progress: 1st power-on

[Ray Sills]

And, it couldn’t hurt to use an anti-static mat.  

73 de Ray
K2ULR
KX3 #211


> On Sep 17, 2015, at 8:42 AM, Rick Robinson  wrote:
> 
> Also using a bath towel under your work helps grab those little parts that
> amazingly grow legs and wander or jump off.
> 

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[Elecraft] Does the K3S/10 have the fans in the case?

[dw]

Hi all,
I'm seeing pictures of the K3s/10 with the dual fans in the back of the
case.
I suspect that picture is probably from the 100 watt version?
Is that correct?
I would be surprised if the 10 watt version needed cooling fans.

Tnx
N1BBR
-- 
 bw...@fastmail.net

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: How Set WPM CK

[Wayne Burdick]

Hold TEXT DEC switch, then rotate VFO B to select the CW decode mode (OFF, TX 
ONLY, etc.). One of the selections is "WPM CHK".

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Sep 17, 2015, at 8:28 AM, Phil Anderson  wrote:

> RE: K3. How do I set the CW "WPM CHK" in the VFO-B display area:
> 
> Manual says use WPM CHK but doesn't say where to set that. Doesn't
> appear to be a menu item?
> 
> tnx, Phil, W0XI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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Re: [Elecraft] Equipment placement

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave,

The KAT500 can be safely placed either above or below the KPA500.
There was much discussion about the placement after the KAT500 was 
announced, and if you want to look it up, you should find information in 
the archives.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/17/2015 11:49 AM, David Bunte wrote:

I have enjoyed the discussion and pictures of equipment stop etc... but was
a bit surprised by the number of photos I have seen of the KAT500 sitting
atop the KPA500.




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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

For something called "wireless" there sure are a lot of wires.

On 9/17/2015 7:56 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:

Depending on the desk top, the routing of the cables can be a mess.  I put a 
false back and dressed the cable through slots and the mess was behind the 
panel.


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Re: [Elecraft] Equipment placement

[David Bunte]

Thanks for the responses... I guess I only remembered what supported my
approach.

Dave - K9FN
On Sep 17, 2015 12:04 PM, "Don Wilhelm"  wrote:

> Dave,
>
> The KAT500 can be safely placed either above or below the KPA500.
> There was much discussion about the placement after the KAT500 was
> announced, and if you want to look it up, you should find information in
> the archives.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 9/17/2015 11:49 AM, David Bunte wrote:
>
>> I have enjoyed the discussion and pictures of equipment stop etc... but
>> was
>> a bit surprised by the number of photos I have seen of the KAT500 sitting
>> atop the KPA500.
>>
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[bill NY9H]

for shelving , spend a bit more for this one time event...
use multi-ply  'baltic birch" plywood,,,7 or 9 ply...

they have it at  home depot /lowes type stores, but a visit to the 
rockler woodworking store was great,

as they had some 9 ply on sale .,..

why balticbirch :
http://www.woodworkerssource.com/6_plywood.html

My elecraft / ICOM ACOM shack  in a cabinetNY9H  at QRZ.com

bill ny9h

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[Elecraft] Fwd: Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[Jerry Wright]

Sent from Jerry's iPhone


Begin forwarded message:

> From: Don Wilhelm 
> Date: September 17, 2015 at 8:17:20 AM PDT
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT
> Reply-To: w3...@embarqmail.com
> 
> Mel,
> 
> Your determination of the required shelf length sounds quite reasonable.
> If you are working with plywood, a normal maximum length for a bookcase shelf 
> of 3/4 plywood is 32 inches without interim supports.
> If the shelf is going to be longer than that, or you will have substantial 
> weight on the shelf, glue 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 inch high edging strips of 3/4 inch 
> thick solid wood to the front and back to conceal the plywood edges.
> 
> To keep the shelf assembly from racking, rabbet the back of the assembly and 
> fasten in a 1/4 inch plywood back - then cut large slots (at least 3 inches 
> wide leaving 2 1/2 inches of material at the ends and under the top) in that 
> back panel to provide adequate ventilation and space to pass cables through.
> 
> I have had considerable woodworking experience both as a hobby with 10 years 
> running a small custom woodworking shop and doing specialty designs for 
> customers.  Make it look like furniture - go to a shop that deals in 
> hardwoods and buy quality materials.  If you buy at a DIY store, check the 
> materials carefully to be certain sheet goods are flat and the solid 
> materials are not warped.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 9/17/2015 10:56 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:
>> Depending on the desk top, the routing of the cables can be a mess.  I put a 
>> false back and dressed the cable through slots and the mess was behind the 
>> panel.  A thought.
>> Mel,, K6KBE
>> 
>>   From: "Chuck Milam, N9KY" 
>>  To: bruce 
>>  Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 7:15 AM
>>  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT
>>I've really enjoyed the conversation about shack and desktop setups, as 
>> I'm
>> about to get into the garage, get behind the saw, and build a desktop
>> equipment shelf.
>> 
>> I've been talked out of building vertical supports, thanks to this
>> list.
> 
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[Elecraft] K3: How Set WPM CK

[Phil Anderson]

RE: K3. How do I set the CW "WPM CHK" in the VFO-B display area:

Manual says use WPM CHK but doesn't say where to set that. Doesn't
appear to be a menu item?

tnx, Phil, W0XI





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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[G4GNX - Alan]

I am about to do the same, as soon as I've finished building the staircase 
to my attic conversion ham shack.


At present I have a bare room with a lot of scope and I intend to have an 
operating position on one side and a small construction/repair bench on the 
other.


I was discussing this with a friend and he suggested that to take cables 
away from the equipment, I could screw a length of industrial cable trunking 
to the stud wall and butt the operating "desk" to it. To make it more 
pretty, I could mount a wooden lid on it and cut holes in that whenever a 
cable is added.


I thought about the idea of building a hutch for the K3 and came up with the 
idea of a top shelf with movable partitions so that I can add to the K-Line 
as needed.


For the cables that will end up outside, I've purchased a 2 inch fitting 
that's used to make a connection with a fish pond. It comes in two pieces 
which will clamp either side of the eaves/soffit board and will have a butyl 
rubber membrane across the entry to prevent the wind from blowing in. From 
there to a 45 degree 2 inch adaptor and a 2 inch tube (all ABS) so that 
cables will pass easily from either end.


Actual layout of the operating area still to be decided, but at least I have 
a clean slate.


73,

Alan. G4GNX

-Original Message- 
From: Chuck Milam, N9KY

Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 3:15 PM
To: bruce
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

I've really enjoyed the conversation about shack and desktop setups, as I'm
about to get into the garage, get behind the saw, and build a desktop
equipment shelf.

I've been talked out of building vertical supports, thanks to this
list.  So now I'm trying to future-proof my design. Eventually, I'd hope to
have a complete K-Line. So, I'm thinking I'd just add up the front panel
widths of all the K-Line components and perhaps add an inch or two. Does
this sound reasonable or am I missing something obvious?




--
Chuck Milam, N9KY
n...@arrl.net

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[Elecraft] Equipment placement

[David Bunte]

I have enjoyed the discussion and pictures of equipment stop etc... but was
a bit surprised by the number of photos I have seen of the KAT500 sitting
atop the KPA500.

I borrowed a KAT500 from a friend and placed it on top of my KPA500 because
I was just testing it and knew that would not be a long term arrangement.
I now own a KAT500 and my KPA500 sits on top of the tuner.   PERHAPS the
cooling of the amp is not too severely impeded by placing the tuner on top
of the amp, but I did not want to take any chances and Elecraft clearly
states that the tuner is designed to be able to support the weight of the
amp.

Regardless of where it sits, the combination sure works nicely. My shack is
small, and I don't have other gear to accomodate, so my station layout was
very straightforward.

Dave - K9FN
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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[Phil Hystad]

Woodworking is my number one hobby (except for the coldest winter months).  Ham 
radio is second to woodworking and my work is primarily furniture using 
hand-joinery (mortise & tenon, dovetails, etc.) and all hardwoods (favorites 
are Padauk and Maple).

Yet, for my shack combined den/office, I bought two tables from IKEA.  They 
have a blond maple like plastic laminate surface measuring 36 inches deep 
(which is special order when I bought these) and 64 inches long.  They have a 
gray metal stand with adjustable height legs.  For the shelving, I used 16 inch 
wide melamine type shelving from Home Depot (3/4 inches thick).  

I have two IKEA tables, one is used for ham radio desk and the other right next 
to it is my iMac computer work station.  The photo at the URL below is of the 
ham radio desk portion showing the table and the melamine shelves.  Note that 
this photo is several years old, I think it dates just after I added the P3 but 
does not show re-arrangement and changes because of adding the KAT500 and 
KPA500 to the mix.

http://k7peh.us/hamradio/k7peh_1.jpg


73, phil, K7PEH



> On Sep 17, 2015, at 9:04 AM, bill NY9H  wrote:
> 
> for shelving , spend a bit more for this one time event...
> use multi-ply  'baltic birch" plywood,,,7 or 9 ply...
> 
> they have it at  home depot /lowes type stores, but a visit to the rockler 
> woodworking store was great,
> as they had some 9 ply on sale .,..
> 
> why balticbirch :
> http://www.woodworkerssource.com/6_plywood.html
> 
> My elecraft / ICOM ACOM shack  in a cabinetNY9H  at QRZ.com
> 
> bill ny9h
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Equipment placement

[Phil Hystad]

I thought I remember either Wayne or Eric of Elecraft saying that the KAT500 
could easily sit on top, or under, the KAP500.  Either way is OK.

73, phil, K7PEH


> On Sep 17, 2015, at 8:49 AM, David Bunte  wrote:
> 
> I have enjoyed the discussion and pictures of equipment stop etc... but was
> a bit surprised by the number of photos I have seen of the KAT500 sitting
> atop the KPA500.
> 
> I borrowed a KAT500 from a friend and placed it on top of my KPA500 because
> I was just testing it and knew that would not be a long term arrangement.
> I now own a KAT500 and my KPA500 sits on top of the tuner.   PERHAPS the
> cooling of the amp is not too severely impeded by placing the tuner on top
> of the amp, but I did not want to take any chances and Elecraft clearly
> states that the tuner is designed to be able to support the weight of the
> amp.
> 
> Regardless of where it sits, the combination sure works nicely. My shack is
> small, and I don't have other gear to accomodate, so my station layout was
> very straightforward.
> 
> Dave - K9FN
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[Elecraft] KPA500/KAT500

[G4GNX - Alan]

Hi all.

I am currently running an Icom IC7100 with a MFJ 998 Intellituner. I also have 
a K3 which is just waiting for it’s new home to be completed and I intend to 
use that as my main HF rig and I will be adding a KPA500 to the line-up.

One thing that the MFJ unit has is a separate terminal to connect a random 
wire, although you can’t connect Ant1 (co-ax) and a random wire at the same 
time. One disadvantage of the MFJ is that it will NOT tune “garden furniture” 
which rumor has it that the KAT500 will. :-)

Does the KAT500 have the capability to tune a random wire, even just connected 
to the center of a SO239 or are there other ways of achieving this?

73,

Alan. G4GNX


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 137, Issue 36

[ad0es]

Hi,

When I started putting my K-Line together, and only owned the K3, I made 
cardboard boxes up in the dimensions of
the future equipment I planned on.  I copied the front/back panel pics 
from the elecraft site and scaled to the actual
dimensions & printed.  I then pasted these on the front/back of the 
cardboard mockups. I then moved them around,
picturing how everything would go together.  Helped a lot on cable flow, 
especially for the coax.  The final setup
was totally different than I first pictured!  Its a bit of work, but it 
saved a LOT of rework in the end.  Be sure to consider
where exhaust fans need clearance, etc.  Sit in front of the "rig", 
reach for "knobs", etc. See how the total setup

feels  before you start cutting wood

Steve AD0ES

On 09/17/2015 08:57 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

   From: "Chuck Milam, N9KY"
  To: bruce  
  Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 9:15 AM

  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

I've really enjoyed the conversation about shack and desktop setups, as I'm

about to get into the garage, get behind the saw, and build a desktop
equipment shelf.

I've been talked out of building vertical supports, thanks to this
list.? So now I'm trying to future-proof my design. Eventually, I'd hope to
have a complete K-Line. So, I'm thinking I'd just add up the front panel
widths of all the K-Line components and perhaps add an inch or two. Does
this sound reasonable or am I missing something obvious?



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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[Don Wilhelm]

Mel,

Your determination of the required shelf length sounds quite reasonable.
If you are working with plywood, a normal maximum length for a bookcase 
shelf of 3/4 plywood is 32 inches without interim supports.
If the shelf is going to be longer than that, or you will have 
substantial weight on the shelf, glue 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 inch high edging 
strips of 3/4 inch thick solid wood to the front and back to conceal the 
plywood edges.


To keep the shelf assembly from racking, rabbet the back of the assembly 
and fasten in a 1/4 inch plywood back - then cut large slots (at least 3 
inches wide leaving 2 1/2 inches of material at the ends and under the 
top) in that back panel to provide adequate ventilation and space to 
pass cables through.


I have had considerable woodworking experience both as a hobby with 10 
years running a small custom woodworking shop and doing specialty 
designs for customers.  Make it look like furniture - go to a shop that 
deals in hardwoods and buy quality materials.  If you buy at a DIY 
store, check the materials carefully to be certain sheet goods are flat 
and the solid materials are not warped.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/17/2015 10:56 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:

Depending on the desk top, the routing of the cables can be a mess.  I put a 
false back and dressed the cable through slots and the mess was behind the 
panel.  A thought.
Mel,, K6KBE

   From: "Chuck Milam, N9KY" 
  To: bruce 
  Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 7:15 AM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

I've really enjoyed the conversation about shack and desktop setups, as I'm

about to get into the garage, get behind the saw, and build a desktop
equipment shelf.

I've been talked out of building vertical supports, thanks to this
list.


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[Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[P.J.Hicks]

Also don't forget to add a bit over 1/2" for each piece of equipment to allow 
for the handles or remove them. 

  

PJH, N7PXY 
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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[G4GNX - Alan]

Me too Don. I am fortunate enough to have a fully equipped woodworking shop 
at home.


I don't think that Home Depot, Lowes and the like are any different to the 
"pile it high, sell it (not so) cheap" DIY stores we have in the UK. Even 
some of our trade building suppliers are a bit suspect and you really do 
have to carefully select your lumber and have a keen eye. :-)


73,

Alan. G4GNX

-Original Message- 
From: Don Wilhelm

Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 4:17 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

...I have had considerable woodworking 
experience both as a hobby with 10

years running a small custom woodworking shop and doing specialty
designs for customers.  Make it look like furniture - go to a shop that
deals in hardwoods and buy quality materials.  If you buy at a DIY
store, check the materials carefully to be certain sheet goods are flat
and the solid materials are not warped.

73,
Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Build Progress: 1st power-on

[Jerry Moore]

Yep, I expected static mat, wrist strap, and work strap were a given.. 
Jer

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ray Sills
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 9:09 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S Build Progress: 1st power-on

And, it couldn’t hurt to use an anti-static mat.  

73 de Ray
K2ULR
KX3 #211


> On Sep 17, 2015, at 8:42 AM, Rick Robinson  wrote:
> 
> Also using a bath towel under your work helps grab those little parts 
> that amazingly grow legs and wander or jump off.
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Build Progress: 1st power-on

[Gary]

And if you have one, ask the cat to stay away. Why you ask?

Ha, mine relocated several parts and water boarding, threats, pleading, 
shakingdidn't do a damn bit of good.

Gary 

-Original Message-
From: "Jim Rogers" 
Sent: ‎17/‎09/‎2015 10:54 PM
To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S Build Progress: 1st power-on

The assembly manual is quite clear when it calls for SS (stainless 
steel) hardware.

RE: surgical rubber gloves - I would advise against that. The purpose of 
the anti-static mats and ESD percautions would be defeated by the use of 
any insulating material between you and the boards you are handling. 
Remember the whole purpose is to keep everything at the same potential. 
Remember the old high school physics experiment of the rubber rod and 
the silk cloth?

The TCXO is probably in a small box protected by conductive foam.

73s, Jim, W4ATK
On 9/17/2015 7:30 AM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:
> Well the Assembly so far has gone pretty well; other than the odd hardware
> dance. This is an area that can be improved dramatically without being
> overly complex. There's apparently one set of Stainless hardware and the
> rest are zinc. I infer from the assembly that all (or nearly all) hardware
> that is on the OUTSIDE or mates to outside screws/bolts is stainless.
> Everything internal ONLY is zinc.
>
>   
>
> My Hints/Tips:
>
> 1.   Wear surgical/rubber gloves - During assembly I suggest wearing thin
> rubber gloves (lowes, home depot..etc.. ). That helps keep oil/fingerprints
> off of everything and you get a slight better grip.
>
> 2.   Use a magnetic parts tray - even for the SS hardware it helps as they
> have some slight carbon content.
>
> 3.   Use a magnetic tipped screwdriver.
>
> 4.   User gravity to put/keep washers on the screws - don't be afraid to
> pick up the assembly you're working on and position it such that gravity
> helps keep parts where they need to be. Keep it Simply Simple.
>
> 5.   Work in a well-lighted area and I'd even suggest a desk/work lamp. I
> have plenty of light in my office and the addition of a desk lamp made a
> dramatic difference to my work.
>
> 6.   Don't mix bags - keep hardware from one bag in it's own container.
> Don't mix zinc and stainless J
>
> 7.   Don't be distracted - ask the wife, kids, pets, ..etc.. to leave you be
> for a bit. I had to dis-assemble/re-assemble the front panel several times
> because my better half wanted to share details of something. Being that she
> has the higher priority I listened and inadvertently assembled some parts
> incorrectly and caught it on verification.
>
>   
>
> Well I'm past the resistance and first power-on test. Just need to figure
> out if/how they packed the TCXO. I have the KREF3 module but can't locate
> the TCXO.. not many parts left, 3 modules, the 100w PA and sheet metal .
>
>   
>
>   
>
> Jerry Moore
>
> AE4PB, K3S SN# 10324
>
>   
>
>   
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Build Progress: 1st power-on

[ae4pb]

The small box appears to be missing for the TCXO. I've gone through the
bubble wrap jungle twice. 
On the gloves. My static mat is grounded via the static lead, The work piece
is grounded via a static lead to the mat, and I'm grounded to the mat via
another lead. It's a real world static sensitive assembly setup. I've seen
this done in manufacturing so I'm not sure where any ESD precautions are
defeated. I've even seen the work lead left off in manufacturing. I added
just because. *shrug*..maybe I missed something. 
Jerry Moore
AE4PB, K3S Sn. 10324

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Rogers
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 8:54 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S Build Progress: 1st power-on

The assembly manual is quite clear when it calls for SS (stainless
steel) hardware.

RE: surgical rubber gloves - I would advise against that. The purpose of the
anti-static mats and ESD percautions would be defeated by the use of any
insulating material between you and the boards you are handling. 
Remember the whole purpose is to keep everything at the same potential. 
Remember the old high school physics experiment of the rubber rod and the
silk cloth?

The TCXO is probably in a small box protected by conductive foam.

73s, Jim, W4ATK
On 9/17/2015 7:30 AM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:
> Well the Assembly so far has gone pretty well; other than the odd 
> hardware dance. This is an area that can be improved dramatically 
> without being overly complex. There's apparently one set of Stainless 
> hardware and the rest are zinc. I infer from the assembly that all (or 
> nearly all) hardware that is on the OUTSIDE or mates to outside
screws/bolts is stainless.
> Everything internal ONLY is zinc.
>
>   
>
> My Hints/Tips:
>
> 1.   Wear surgical/rubber gloves - During assembly I suggest wearing thin
> rubber gloves (lowes, home depot..etc.. ). That helps keep 
> oil/fingerprints off of everything and you get a slight better grip.
>
> 2.   Use a magnetic parts tray - even for the SS hardware it helps as they
> have some slight carbon content.
>
> 3.   Use a magnetic tipped screwdriver.
>
> 4.   User gravity to put/keep washers on the screws - don't be afraid to
> pick up the assembly you're working on and position it such that 
> gravity helps keep parts where they need to be. Keep it Simply Simple.
>
> 5.   Work in a well-lighted area and I'd even suggest a desk/work lamp. I
> have plenty of light in my office and the addition of a desk lamp made 
> a dramatic difference to my work.
>
> 6.   Don't mix bags - keep hardware from one bag in it's own container.
> Don't mix zinc and stainless J
>
> 7.   Don't be distracted - ask the wife, kids, pets, ..etc.. to leave you
be
> for a bit. I had to dis-assemble/re-assemble the front panel several 
> times because my better half wanted to share details of something. 
> Being that she has the higher priority I listened and inadvertently 
> assembled some parts incorrectly and caught it on verification.
>
>   
>
> Well I'm past the resistance and first power-on test. Just need to 
> figure out if/how they packed the TCXO. I have the KREF3 module but 
> can't locate the TCXO.. not many parts left, 3 modules, the 100w PA and
sheet metal .
>
>   
>
>   
>
> Jerry Moore
>
> AE4PB, K3S SN# 10324
>
>   
>
>   
>
> __
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> jim.w4...@gmail.com
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[Chuck Milam, N9KY]

I've really enjoyed the conversation about shack and desktop setups, as I'm
about to get into the garage, get behind the saw, and build a desktop
equipment shelf.

I've been talked out of building vertical supports, thanks to this
list.  So now I'm trying to future-proof my design. Eventually, I'd hope to
have a complete K-Line. So, I'm thinking I'd just add up the front panel
widths of all the K-Line components and perhaps add an inch or two. Does
this sound reasonable or am I missing something obvious?




-- 
Chuck Milam, N9KY
n...@arrl.net
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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[Chip Stratton]

He has always welcomed hams who come to visit on his little island and
offers to let them use almost any of his incredible collection of installed
ham gear.

I haven't taken advantage of this myself, but have communicated with him by
email. He has a B, but also suggested to me that I could come and just
camp nearby to save money - but could still use his ham gear.

Very generous and nice man.

Chip
AE5KA

On Thu, Sep 17, 2015 at 7:13 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH  wrote:

> He's also a helluva nice guy.
>
> He often helps out on the "pre-net" for the Sunday
> Collins Collectors Assn 14.263 net at 2000Z.
>
> 73, Charlie k3ICH
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On
> Behalf Of Gary K9GS
> Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2015 11:34 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements -
> just a little OT
>
> W9EVT attended the W9DXCC convention in Chicago
> this past weekend.
>
>
>
> On 9/16/2015 10:10 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
> > This discussion of shack and desk arrangements
> inspired me to look further
> > into it . . .   Well, not too much further.  I
> simply went to Google
> > Images and entered ³Amateur Radio Stations.²
> Some Elecraft-centered
> > setups appeared, as one might imagine.  But
> here¹s one that just blew
> > me
> > away:
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

Depending on the desk top, the routing of the cables can be a mess.  I put a 
false back and dressed the cable through slots and the mess was behind the 
panel.  A thought.
Mel,, K6KBE

  From: "Chuck Milam, N9KY" 
 To: bruce  
 Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 7:15 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT
   
I've really enjoyed the conversation about shack and desktop setups, as I'm
about to get into the garage, get behind the saw, and build a desktop
equipment shelf.

I've been talked out of building vertical supports, thanks to this
list.  So now I'm trying to future-proof my design. Eventually, I'd hope to
have a complete K-Line. So, I'm thinking I'd just add up the front panel
widths of all the K-Line components and perhaps add an inch or two. Does
this sound reasonable or am I missing something obvious?




-- 
Chuck Milam, N9KY
n...@arrl.net
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Build Progress: 1st power-on

[Don Wilhelm]

Jer,

Congratulations on the work you have reported so far.  I hope the rest 
of the assembly goes well and you find no problems.

Is there a chance that your TCXO is already mounted on the KREF3 board?

My only comment is that I do not like to have any magnetic tools or 
trays (or anything else magnetic) on my workbench.
They pick up bits and pieces that I do not intend and can sometimes 
inadvertently operate relays when not wanted.  Of course, I am working 
with a variety of equipment, so my situation is different than only 
assembling a K3S, and I do have little bits and pieces (cutoff leads, 
etc) laying around on my workbench.  Speaker magnets are an irritation 
that I can do little about, so I place them away from my work area.


I do keep an old Weller soldering gun next to the workbench and its only 
task is to demagnetize my tools when they begin picking up bits.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/17/2015 8:30 AM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:

2.   Use a magnetic parts tray - even for the SS hardware it helps as they
have some slight carbon content.

3.   Use a magnetic tipped screwdriver.



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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Build Progress: 1st power-on

[ae4pb]

I did that when working on the Front panel to prevent scratches. I didn’t do 
that for the rest as I was concerned about static. Probably ok tho

 

From: Rick Robinson [mailto:rickw...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 8:43 AM
To: ae...@carolinaheli.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S Build Progress: 1st power-on

 

Also using a bath towel under your work helps grab those little parts that 
amazingly grow legs and wander or jump off.

On Thursday, September 17, 2015, ae...@carolinaheli.com 
 wrote:

Well the Assembly so far has gone pretty well; other than the odd hardware
dance. This is an area that can be improved dramatically without being
overly complex. There's apparently one set of Stainless hardware and the
rest are zinc. I infer from the assembly that all (or nearly all) hardware
that is on the OUTSIDE or mates to outside screws/bolts is stainless.
Everything internal ONLY is zinc.



My Hints/Tips:

1.   Wear surgical/rubber gloves - During assembly I suggest wearing thin
rubber gloves (lowes, home depot..etc.. ). That helps keep oil/fingerprints
off of everything and you get a slight better grip.

2.   Use a magnetic parts tray - even for the SS hardware it helps as they
have some slight carbon content.

3.   Use a magnetic tipped screwdriver.

4.   User gravity to put/keep washers on the screws - don't be afraid to
pick up the assembly you're working on and position it such that gravity
helps keep parts where they need to be. Keep it Simply Simple.

5.   Work in a well-lighted area and I'd even suggest a desk/work lamp. I
have plenty of light in my office and the addition of a desk lamp made a
dramatic difference to my work.

6.   Don't mix bags - keep hardware from one bag in it's own container.
Don't mix zinc and stainless J

7.   Don't be distracted - ask the wife, kids, pets, ..etc.. to leave you be
for a bit. I had to dis-assemble/re-assemble the front panel several times
because my better half wanted to share details of something. Being that she
has the higher priority I listened and inadvertently assembled some parts
incorrectly and caught it on verification.



Well I'm past the resistance and first power-on test. Just need to figure
out if/how they packed the TCXO. I have the KREF3 module but can't locate
the TCXO.. not many parts left, 3 modules, the 100w PA and sheet metal .





Jerry Moore

AE4PB, K3S SN# 10324





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-- 
Rick, W8ZT

Sent from Gmail Mobile

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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[Milverton M. Swire via Elecraft]

>>> am I missing something obvious? <<< 
YES! The "K" Line !   :-D
73 Milverton / W9MMS.


  From: "Chuck Milam, N9KY" 
 To: bruce  
 Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 9:15 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT
   
I've really enjoyed the conversation about shack and desktop setups, as I'm
about to get into the garage, get behind the saw, and build a desktop
equipment shelf.

I've been talked out of building vertical supports, thanks to this
list.  So now I'm trying to future-proof my design. Eventually, I'd hope to
have a complete K-Line. So, I'm thinking I'd just add up the front panel
widths of all the K-Line components and perhaps add an inch or two. Does
this sound reasonable or am I missing something obvious?




-- 
Chuck Milam, N9KY
n...@arrl.net


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Digital Voice Mode - our future?

[Robert Nobis]

Jerry,

Not sure that is a valid assumption when it comes to ham radio. 

73,



Bob Nobis - N7RJN
n7...@nobis.net


> On Sep 17, 2015, at 11:00, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:
> 
> I'm wondering since Digital voice is replacing FM around the world how hard
> it would be to add another mode to the K3S? I'm not even sure what the
> standards are but one country just set the date to get rid of FM permanently
> and switch to DV. 
> 
> Jerry Moore
> AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 10324
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] WSJT KX3 and GPS

[wb7ond]

When running WSJT with my KX3 portable, I use a program called  NMEATIME in
conjunction with a  HOLUX bluetooth GPS receiver.  My Holux is an older one,
but Amazon has a couple  newer models there, not too expensive.  When you
pair and connect the Holux, it shows up as a comport in the Windows device
manager.  When you launch NMEATime program, you can set its input as either
SNTP from the internet, or via a comport from a GPS receiver.  I use both. 
But, when portable I set the Holux out for a clear "sky" view and when the
leds on the receiver are showing good GPS connect, NMEA data comes through
the comport to the NMEATime program, it locks in and the resulting time
clock is right on.  I think though  you have to purchase the program to get
it to sync/change the Windows system time.  I purchased mine, so I don't
remember.  The little battery in the Holux lasts me the whole day.  Oh one
last thing, I connect a string to the Holux receiver, and run it to the
computer, so I do not have to run back to the park, when I realize I left it
there... (:0

Dick
wb7ond 



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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/WSJT-KX3-and-GPS-tp7607428p7607905.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Fwd: Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[Phil Hystad]

Actually, I think a different photo would show the tables I mention below a bit 
better.

http://k7peh.us/hamradio/peh_hamshack_1.jpg 


http://k7peh.us/hamradio/peh_hamshack_3.jpg 


The room shown is the lower level (split level house) 4th bedroom which is my 
shack/den/office/mancave.  And, these photos are at least three years old as 
they show the Icom PW-1 (black box on floor in far rear corner) and my Icom 756 
Pro III is on the shelf to the right of the K3 but it can’t be clearly seen.

The photo below is my sometimes “portable” operations of QRP CW using my KX3 
and Buddipole Antenna in the back yard.  Our back yard is like a cosy little 
park with birds chirping all over and it is a nice place for a QRP afternoon on 
20 meters.

http://k7peh.us/hamradio/Phil.jpg 

73, phil, K7PEH



> Begin forwarded message:
> 
> From: Phil Hystad 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT
> Date: September 17, 2015 at 9:35:53 AM PDT
> To: bill NY9H 
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> Woodworking is my number one hobby (except for the coldest winter months).  
> Ham radio is second to woodworking and my work is primarily furniture using 
> hand-joinery (mortise & tenon, dovetails, etc.) and all hardwoods (favorites 
> are Padauk and Maple).
> 
> Yet, for my shack combined den/office, I bought two tables from IKEA.  They 
> have a blond maple like plastic laminate surface measuring 36 inches deep 
> (which is special order when I bought these) and 64 inches long.  They have a 
> gray metal stand with adjustable height legs.  For the shelving, I used 16 
> inch wide melamine type shelving from Home Depot (3/4 inches thick).  
> 
> I have two IKEA tables, one is used for ham radio desk and the other right 
> next to it is my iMac computer work station.  The photo at the URL below is 
> of the ham radio desk portion showing the table and the melamine shelves.  
> Note that this photo is several years old, I think it dates just after I 
> added the P3 but does not show re-arrangement and changes because of adding 
> the KAT500 and KPA500 to the mix.
> 
> http://k7peh.us/hamradio/k7peh_1.jpg
> 
> 
> 73, phil, K7PEH
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sep 17, 2015, at 9:04 AM, bill NY9H  wrote:
>> 
>> for shelving , spend a bit more for this one time event...
>> use multi-ply  'baltic birch" plywood,,,7 or 9 ply...
>> 
>> they have it at  home depot /lowes type stores, but a visit to the rockler 
>> woodworking store was great,
>> as they had some 9 ply on sale .,..
>> 
>> why balticbirch :
>> http://www.woodworkerssource.com/6_plywood.html
>> 
>> My elecraft / ICOM ACOM shack  in a cabinetNY9H  at QRZ.com
>> 
>> bill ny9h
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Does the K3S/10 have the fans in the case?

[Jim Lowman]

This begs one question of a multi-question e-mail that I sent to Eric 
recently.
I'm sure that he's busy after the local convention and hasn't had a 
chance to answer.
Maybe I can get the answer from the collective wisdom of the list 
members in the interim.


Originally I bought a K3/10 and later upgraded with the 100-watt option.
Recently I bought a K3S and am moving modules from the K3 to the new K3S.
If I do so, will the second fan in the K3S become operational?

Thanks for any advice and 73 de Jim - AD6CW

On 9/17/2015 7:57 AM, dw wrote:

Hi all,
I'm seeing pictures of the K3s/10 with the dual fans in the back of the
case.
I suspect that picture is probably from the 100 watt version?
Is that correct?
I would be surprised if the 10 watt version needed cooling fans.

Tnx
N1BBR


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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[Bob]

I've enjoyed it too.My woodworking skills are at best poor and more likely 
nonexistent so cabinetry is out of the question.


What I did years ago and has worked out very well was some standard shelving 
from Lowe'a or HD.  Vertical risers screwed into the studding and 18 inch deep 
brackets mounted on them.   Finished the shelves to match the desk top and done.


I've been thru a couple of redo's over the years.  The last when the high SB220 
was replaced by the KPA 500 and KAT500.  Very flexible arrangements.  Desk can 
be pulled out from underneath if cables are an extra few feet long.  Besides we 
all have to plan for when the K4 comes out with the large built in display and  
is 2 inches higher.


No pictures online but if anyone has interest I'll send JPEG's on request.

73,
Bob
K2TK  ex KN2TKR (1956) & K2TKR

On 9/17/2015 10:15 AM, Chuck Milam, N9KY wrote:

I've really enjoyed the conversation about shack and desktop setups, as I'm
about to get into the garage, get behind the saw, and build a desktop
equipment shelf.

I've been talked out of building vertical supports, thanks to this
list.  So now I'm trying to future-proof my design. Eventually, I'd hope to
have a complete K-Line. So, I'm thinking I'd just add up the front panel
widths of all the K-Line components and perhaps add an inch or two. Does
this sound reasonable or am I missing something obvious?






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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500/KAT500

[Jim Brown]

On Thu,9/17/2015 10:15 AM, G4GNX - Alan wrote:
It may have sounded ignorant, but I was concerned that there might be 
RFI and RF in the shack issues, although I couldn't see how MFJ 
allowed for this and they obviously don't. :-)




ANY long wire that ends in the shack puts RF in the shack. That's how 
antennas work. If it didn't put RF in your shack it would be a lousy 
antenna. The key is to RF-proof the gear in your shack.


When I operated from a wood frame 2-flat in Chicago, I had a dipole fed 
with vintage 75 ohm KW twin lead made by Belden (long discontinued). On 
80 and 160, I tied both sides of the feedline together and loaded it as 
a long wire, using a about 150 linear feet of wrought iron fence as a 
counterpoise. By virtue of the length of the wire and the counterpoise, 
there was a lot of RF current in my shack, so it coupled inductively to 
nearby wiring, including the serial cable running from my laptop to my K2.


This coupling occurred because the serial cable was parallel wires, and 
it caused the computer keying circuit from computer to K2 to lock up 
with as little as 12W. When I replaced that cable with CAT5 (which is 
four very good twisted pairs) using one pair per signaling circuit, the 
coupling went away, and I could run my Titan amp at full power with no 
problems.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[Bob McGraw - K4TAX]

Using dimension lumber meaning 1 x 12 and 2 x 2 as such, for the shelves 
use 1 x 12.  Then using a length of 2 x 2, rabbit a 3/4" x 3/4" edge.  
This edge or notch will fit nicely under the front and back edge of the 
shelf material.  I gives a finished look and added structural support 
and is easy to attach.   I do suggest using Titebond II as a glue 
between all joints.   Then face frame with 3/4 x 1 1/2 finished 
material.  I made mine from solid cherry I had available in the shop.   
Then stained with a natural stain and finished with two coats of a 
semigloss urethane finish.


I always allow 1" between pieces of equipment unless there is provision 
on the equipment for side ventilation.  If so, a minimum of 2" is a good 
choice.  Same for the back, allow 2" minimum for ventilation and cables 
and connectors.  Vertically again 1" from the equipment to the underside 
of the upper shelf.


73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S s/n 10,163

On 9/17/2015 9:15 AM, Chuck Milam, N9KY wrote:

I've really enjoyed the conversation about shack and desktop setups, as I'm
about to get into the garage, get behind the saw, and build a desktop
equipment shelf.

I've been talked out of building vertical supports, thanks to this
list.  So now I'm trying to future-proof my design. Eventually, I'd hope to
have a complete K-Line. So, I'm thinking I'd just add up the front panel
widths of all the K-Line components and perhaps add an inch or two. Does
this sound reasonable or am I missing something obvious?







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[Elecraft] Why black is the hot wire

[David Robertson]

At the early part of the 20th century, when electricians were wiring houses
(knob and tube), the color of the electrical wire was only black. The power
companies found that one side of the power feed (center tap on 220) to the
house or building had to be grounded to prevent voltage buildup on the
power lines. In order for the electricians to keep track of the grounded
side (neutral)  of the power feed they painted the grounded (neutral) wire
white. Soon after the wire manufacturers started making both black and
white wires so the electricians now could safely wire buildings without
resorting to painting the ground wire white.

73
-- 
Dave Robertson KD1NA
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Re: [Elecraft] Does the K3S/10 have the fans in the case?

[dw]

Sweet!!
Thanks Don :-]
Duane



On Thu, Sep 17, 2015, at 08:21 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> You are seeing a picture of the K3S/100 if it has fans.
> The K3S/10 has a blank panel where the fans for the KPA3A would mount.
> Cooling fans are not needed for the K3S/10
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 9/17/2015 10:57 AM, dw wrote:
> > Hi all,
> > I'm seeing pictures of the K3s/10 with the dual fans in the back of the
> > case.
> > I suspect that picture is probably from the 100 watt version?
> > Is that correct?
> > I would be surprised if the 10 watt version needed cooling fans.
> >
> > Tnx
> > N1BBR
> 
-- 
 bw...@fastmail.net

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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[Edward R Cole]

I used standard peg board:  http://www.kl7uw.com/Backside_Station.jpg

One can loop tywraps thru the holes to tie down wiring.  Helps to 
have really long arms, though! 


73, Ed - KL7UW

From: Mel Farrer via Elecraft 
To: "Chuck Milam, N9KY" , bruce

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT
Message-ID:
<1966255439.999039.1442501769355.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Depending on the desk top, the routing of the cables can be a mess.? 
I put a false back and dressed the cable through slots and the mess 
was behind the panel.? A thought.

Mel,, K6KBE



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[Jim Lowman]

If nothing else, all of these photos of such nicely-organized and neat 
shacks are inspiring me to get mine in better order.


73 de Jim - AD6CW
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Re: [Elecraft] On VHF & UHF radios

[Dave Olean]

There used to be a larger number of "serious weak signal VHF operators, but 
the serious VHF operators are all dying off with no young ones to replace 
them. I use three K3s and  three K2s in my VHF station. I have one Ten Tec 
OMNI V as well on 432. The big difference between a great HF vs VHF radio is 
that LO purity and reciprical mixing performance is paramount on VHF, while 
HF requires the close in dynamic range to be exemplary. I have yet to see a 
good multi mode or "do all" radio from any manufacturer. I have never used 
one in my station as a result. Strong signals on VHf can be a huge problem 
when giant antennas and high locations are in use. Stations 60 or 70 miles 
away can clobber you very easily. ERP levels can approach 150 KW.
   I have always been intrigued by the Sherwood numbers for the Kenwood 
TS-820S and TS-830 with YK88 filters. They don't look so bad in the listing, 
but they were awful on VHF in strong signal environments with high gain (20 
dBd) antennas. Local oscillator noise did not cut it.  The K3 with the new 
synthesizer is about 40 db or more better. I had the Kenwoods back in the 
90's and dumped them for K2s and Ten Tec radios. What a difference. The K3 
is icing on the cake. I started using them soon after they came out. They 
are great on VHF and not too shabby on 160 meters also. (heh heh) I don't 
think I can recall an overload problem with the Elecraft radios or the Ten 
Tec OMNI for that matter. The OMNI V used crystal oscillators in the 1st LO, 
so it was pretty clean. The new K3 synthesizer is awesome. It can handle a 0 
dBm signal next to a -135 dBm signal and live to tell about it!
   I have the 144 built in transverter in one of my K3's, but have not used 
it as it is too low power to drive my big amplifier. Someday I'll resolve 
that situation and it should work great. Of course VHF contesting is 
different in different parts of the country. I live in rural Maine about 250 
or 275 miles from New York City.  I am on the edge of the golden activity 
corridor. From my place, it is unwise to use multi mode Japanese rigs for 
serious contesting. Between the deafness and LO phase noise problems, you 
would have your hands full. Another ham 50 miles away could have a KW and 
large antenna that was line of sight or almost line of sight, and squash 
your receiver like a bug. Every  VHF band here has a good HF radio for the 
receiver. K3s, K2s, and one OMNI V from Ten Tec


Dave K1WHS


- Original Message - 
From: "Bob McGraw - K4TAX" 

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2015 12:03 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] On VHF & UHF radios


I don't view there are many serious VHF and UHF operators today, i.e. 
sufficient to warrant a high performance radio.  Most are repeater users. 
Seems that a $39 radio model has been proven to be satisfactory to most.


The SAT users do require some unique applications to cross band, split 
frequency and address Doppler shift.  The Tropo users need big antennas 
and lots of power and the EME group even more so.  Oh yes, the digital 
modes make things less complex but still, big antennas, good receivers and 
clean transmitters is still mandatory.


I don't find the current breed of "do it all" radios to have outstanding 
performance on VHF and UHF.


73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S s/n 10,163

On 9/16/2015 6:35 AM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:
I still believe it may be possible with the K3S, KRX3 and transceivers to 
do Full cross band duplex. I'll look more closely after my rig is built 
and on the air. Makes for an expensive stand alone UHF/VHF rig tho unless 
you want HF too. But then it's probably overkill just to work SATs. I'll 
bet with the correct transverter we could hear the mars rovers tho.


Jerry Moore
AE4PB, K3S SN# ARRIVES TODAY!!!


-Original Message-
From: Andy McMullin [mailto:a...@rickham.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2015 7:22 AM
To: Jerry Moore
Cc: Jim Lowman; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SP3 External Speaker details

I’d be interested in that spec too!

Built-in soundcard for digital modes (with one USB connection for it and 
rig control) would be nice as well.


Regards
Andy, G8TQH



On 16 Sep 2015, at 12:06, Jerry Moore  wrote:

If they did a stand alone UHF/VHF I'd suggest it have dual receivers,
cross band tx/rx capability and VFO tracking based on Doppler built in
for SAT work.


[deletia]

My one request to Eric, last year at his presentation at Pacificon,
was for a standalone, all-mode transceiver for 2m and above.
My rationale was that, since Elecraft sells transverters for 2m, 220
MHz and
432 MHz, they already have the technology to make this possible.
It came down to the fact that there may not be a large enough market
for such a transceiver.  Makes sense.

73 de Jim - AD6CW




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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Shack Arrangements - just a little OT

[Merv Schweigert]

I have always had the problem of new or added gear fitting the "hutch" 
space,

it was either to wide etc
In my last desk top "hutch" I solved that problem,  I made the 
horizontal shelves
full width of the desk top,  but the vertical supports or dividers I 
made loose or
adjustable,  I can slide the vertical supports anyplace along the 
shelves,  that
way new or different size gear can be accommodated with no revision to 
the desk.
Get a new radio and need another inch space?  bump the vertical support 
over
an inch.   I used 3/4 inch shelf board for both the shelves and 
divider/supports,

the end supports of course are fixed and screwed and glued.

73 Merv K9FD/KH6


I've really enjoyed the conversation about shack and desktop setups, as I'm
about to get into the garage, get behind the saw, and build a desktop
equipment shelf.

I've been talked out of building vertical supports, thanks to this
list.  So now I'm trying to future-proof my design. Eventually, I'd hope to
have a complete K-Line. So, I'm thinking I'd just add up the front panel
widths of all the K-Line components and perhaps add an inch or two. Does
this sound reasonable or am I missing something obvious?






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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Build Progress: 1st power-on

[ae4pb]

No worries, Elecraft is on top of things for me. Part number for the back PA
blank plate was accidently keyed in instead of the TCXO. It's on the way so
no worries. I'm just VERY HAPPY the build went well and the Rig otherwise
appears to be working (well other than no RX..LOL.. ). Just playing with the
menus and getting familiar with it all. Once I get off work I'll connect my
PC with the K3 Utility and see what I can see. I only like mag trays when
I'm doing assembly or maintenance where I'd have a bunch of hardware out
(especially small in size). 

Jerry Moore
AE4PB, K3S - SN 10324

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 10:56 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S Build Progress: 1st power-on

Jer,

Congratulations on the work you have reported so far.  I hope the rest of
the assembly goes well and you find no problems.
Is there a chance that your TCXO is already mounted on the KREF3 board?

My only comment is that I do not like to have any magnetic tools or trays
(or anything else magnetic) on my workbench.
They pick up bits and pieces that I do not intend and can sometimes
inadvertently operate relays when not wanted.  Of course, I am working with
a variety of equipment, so my situation is different than only assembling a
K3S, and I do have little bits and pieces (cutoff leads,
etc) laying around on my workbench.  Speaker magnets are an irritation that
I can do little about, so I place them away from my work area.

I do keep an old Weller soldering gun next to the workbench and its only
task is to demagnetize my tools when they begin picking up bits.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/17/2015 8:30 AM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:
> 2.   Use a magnetic parts tray - even for the SS hardware it helps as they
> have some slight carbon content.
>
> 3.   Use a magnetic tipped screwdriver.
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Equipment placement

[Phil Wheeler]

The manual I have in my computer (from March 2014) 
says on Page 10:


0.

   Positioning the Amplifier

   Provide at least 2 inches (5 cm) clearance
   behind the fan and 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the
   amplifier for normal cooling air flow.

Microsoft Word - KPA500 Owner's man Rev D.doc So 
if I placed the KAT500 atop the KPA500 I would use 
some spacers in each corner area. In fact, I 
purchased such spacers at the time, but ended up 
with the tuner in a different location.


73, Phil W7OX

On 9/17/15 8:58 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:

I thought I remember either Wayne or Eric of Elecraft saying that the KAT500 
could easily sit on top, or under, the KAP500.  Either way is OK.

73, phil, K7PEH



On Sep 17, 2015, at 8:49 AM, David Bunte  wrote:

I have enjoyed the discussion and pictures of equipment stop etc... but was
a bit surprised by the number of photos I have seen of the KAT500 sitting
atop the KPA500.

I borrowed a KAT500 from a friend and placed it on top of my KPA500 because
I was just testing it and knew that would not be a long term arrangement.
I now own a KAT500 and my KPA500 sits on top of the tuner.   PERHAPS the
cooling of the amp is not too severely impeded by placing the tuner on top
of the amp, but I did not want to take any chances and Elecraft clearly
states that the tuner is designed to be able to support the weight of the
amp.

Regardless of where it sits, the combination sure works nicely. My shack is
small, and I don't have other gear to accomodate, so my station layout was
very straightforward.

Dave - K9FN


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Re: [Elecraft] On VHF & UHF radios

[Josh]

How young is young? :)

73,
Josh W6XU

P.S. Bob K6QXY says you cut the phasing lines for my 6m EME array. 

Sent from my mobile device

> On Sep 17, 2015, at 10:44 AM, Dave Olean  wrote:
> 
> no young ones to replace them
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Re: [Elecraft] Equipment placement

[Bob]

For my operating I went with this as an authoritative source from March 2012:


There should be no interaction issues between the KAT500 and the KPA500 when the 
KAT is under the amp. We also beefed up the KAT500 cabinet to handle the weight 
of the KPA500. Also, placing it on top of the amp does not raise amp PA 
transistor temp significantly for most casual duty cycle use, typically raising 
it a few degrees. In some cases it will cause the amp's fan to move to a higher 
speed during TX. For higher intensity operation, with the ATU on top of the amp, 
key down 100% for several minutes the PA temp will raise 5-9 degrees above what 
its normal operating temp would be without the ATU on top. The fan will also 
operate at a higher speed. In our testing at normal room temps this was still 
well below the amp's max temp fault trigger point. But if you plan on RTTY or 
other high duty cycle modes with a lot of continuous RX time, especially under 
higher ambient temp conditions, we recommend placing the KAT500 to the side or 
under the amp. Also, the amp protects itself from over temp situations with its 
soft and hard fault triggers. So feel free to try it out on top to see how it 
works under your typical operating conditions. 73, Eric


No problems and with my with shack in the basement don't ever recall the fan 
even going to a higher speed so never experienced a fault.

.
I do not do the high duty cycle digital modes so once again the answer is "it 
all depends" .  .


73,
Bob
K2TK ex KN2TKR (1956) & K2TKR


On 9/17/2015 2:32 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:

The manual I have in my computer (from March 2014) says on Page 10:

0.

   Positioning the Amplifier

   Provide at least 2 inches (5 cm) clearance
   behind the fan and 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the
   amplifier for normal cooling air flow.

Microsoft Word - KPA500 Owner's man Rev D.doc So if I placed the KAT500 atop 
the KPA500 I would use some spacers in each corner area. In fact, I purchased 
such spacers at the time, but ended up with the tuner in a different location.


73, Phil W7OX

On 9/17/15 8:58 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:
I thought I remember either Wayne or Eric of Elecraft saying that the KAT500 
could easily sit on top, or under, the KAP500.  Either way is OK.


73, phil, K7PEH



On Sep 17, 2015, at 8:49 AM, David Bunte  wrote:

I have enjoyed the discussion and pictures of equipment stop etc... but was
a bit surprised by the number of photos I have seen of the KAT500 sitting
atop the KPA500.

I borrowed a KAT500 from a friend and placed it on top of my KPA500 because
I was just testing it and knew that would not be a long term arrangement.
I now own a KAT500 and my KPA500 sits on top of the tuner. PERHAPS the
cooling of the amp is not too severely impeded by placing the tuner on top
of the amp, but I did not want to take any chances and Elecraft clearly
states that the tuner is designed to be able to support the weight of the
amp.

Regardless of where it sits, the combination sure works nicely. My shack is
small, and I don't have other gear to accomodate, so my station layout was
very straightforward.

Dave - K9FN




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Digital Voice Mode - our future?

[Bill Frantz]

On 9/17/15 at 11:48 AM, n7...@nobis.net (Robert Nobis) wrote:
See: 

I don't think this mode very popular yet, but it is attractive, taking less 
bandwidth than SSB.

73 Bill AE6JV

> Jerry,
> 
> Not sure that is a valid assumption when it comes to ham radio. 
> 
> 73,
> 
> 
> 
> Bob Nobis - N7RJN
> n7...@nobis.net
> 
> 
> > On Sep 17, 2015, at 11:00, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:
> > 
> > I'm wondering since Digital voice is replacing FM around the world how hard
> > it would be to add another mode to the K3S? I'm not even sure what the
> > standards are but one country just set the date to get rid of FM permanently
> > and switch to DV. 
> > 
> > Jerry Moore
> > AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 10324

-
Bill Frantz| The first thing you need when  | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | using a perimeter defense is a | 16345 Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | perimeter. | Los Gatos, CA 95032

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[Elecraft] Manuals: Old-Radio

[Alan D. Wilcox]

Hello,
Cleaning out the files, and the following manuals need new home.
Take any or all for the price of posting it out to you.

Meanwhile Zverev LC filter manual continues on eBay …
www.ebay.com/itm/201426555139

Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX
570-478-0736 (cell, text)
http://WilcoxEngineering.com
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/6768 ... Elecraft Client Comments



WRL Globe King 500-A instruction manual

CE Sideband Slicer Models A instructions

Drake Condensed Catalog 1969
Drake AC-4 power supply diagram

Photofact Wildcat II 

EFJohnson 250-20 LP Filter instructions
EFJ SWR bridge instructions

SB-610  Monitor Scope assembly manual
HM-2102 VHF Wattmeter assembly manual
MP-10 Power Converter specs, diagram
GD-113 Wireless Intercom ass’y
GD-1150 Ultrasonic Cleaner
HRA-10-1 Crystal Calibrator
HN-31 Cantenna
IO-20 Ignition Analyzer
SBA-104-1 Noise Blanker
AM-2 Reflected Power Meter
CA-1 Conelrad Alarm



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Re: [Elecraft] On VHF & UHF radios

[Bill Frantz]

I feel the VHF/UHF bug beginning to bite as I very slowly work my way toward a 
Worked All Bands.

How do the Elecraft transverters stack up with the other options?

73 BIll AE6JV

---
Bill Frantz| Truth and love must prevail  | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | over lies and hate.  | 16345 Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com |   - Vaclav Havel | Los Gatos, CA 95032

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Re: [Elecraft] Manuals: Old-Radio

[Mike Markowski]

A great and thorough book!  (Though I have only the pdf.)

73,
Mike ab3ap

On 09/17/2015 05:58 PM, Alan D. Wilcox wrote:

[...]
Meanwhile Zverev LC filter manual continues on eBay …
www.ebay.com/itm/201426555139

Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX
570-478-0736 (cell, text)
http://WilcoxEngineering.com
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/6768 ... Elecraft Client Comments

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500/KAT500

[Jim Brown]

On Thu,9/17/2015 9:31 AM, G4GNX - Alan wrote:

Does the KAT500 have the capability to tune a random wire, even just connected 
to the center of a SO239


Of course -- that's how almost any tuner would do it.


or are there other ways of achieving this?


No

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500/KAT500

[G4GNX - Alan]

Thanks Jim.

It may have sounded ignorant, but I was concerned that there might be RFI 
and RF in the shack issues, although I couldn't see how MFJ allowed for this 
and they obviously don't. :-)


I will probably sell the MFJ 998 as it has shortcomings for me. It refuses 
to tune out a bad SWR on some bands and although it
should tune with as little as 5 watts, it occasionally insists on QRO from 
the IC7100 which is fixed at 10 watts for tuning.


Obviously the K3 is far superior and allows the user to specify a "sensible" 
tuning power and it also seems to almost tune fresh air.


73,

Alan. G4GNX

-Original Message- 
From: Jim Brown

Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 6:00 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500/KAT500

On Thu,9/17/2015 9:31 AM, G4GNX - Alan wrote:
Does the KAT500 have the capability to tune a random wire, even just 
connected to the center of a SO239


Of course -- that's how almost any tuner would do it.


or are there other ways of achieving this?


No

73, Jim K9YC 


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[Elecraft] K3 Digital Voice Mode - our future?

[ae4pb]

I'm wondering since Digital voice is replacing FM around the world how hard
it would be to add another mode to the K3S? I'm not even sure what the
standards are but one country just set the date to get rid of FM permanently
and switch to DV. 

Jerry Moore
AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 10324

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Digital Voice Mode - our future?

[Don Wilhelm]

You have listed 3 digital voice modes that do not talk to each other.  
Furthermore, I recall that these are proprietary coding schemes.
That is not "Ham Radio" in my mind.  Ham Radio is "everyone can talk to 
everyone else", and those digital voice systems where you can only talk 
to those hams who have purchased the same brand of equipment as you have 
selected is more like commercial circuits where you want to shut out 
those who do not 'speak the same language that you do'.


I don't think proprietary protocols belong on the ham bands - just my 
not so humble opinion.  Yes, I am also opposed to proprietary data modes.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/17/2015 9:03 PM, Robert Nobis wrote:

Take a look at the digital voice modes that are being used on the VHF and UHF 
bands: DMR, D-STAR and Fusion.




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Digital Voice Mode - our future?

[Matthew Cook]

If you take a closer look at the spectral bandwidths of the current crop of
digital VHF/UHF voice systems and compare them to 10k1 NBFM I think you'll
be surprised.  Unless govt agencies start racking and stacking digtal LMR
systems without guard bands then there is no clear advantage.  The
technical requirements of each receiver goes through the roof with 10k1
systems as it.  However there is a strong desire from government agencies
to move toward encrypted communications, which is very easy with digital
LMR; basically you get it for free.  This does not relate to the amateur
service.

In terms of Digital voice replacing SSB that has a very long long way to
go.  In truth SSB is very difficult to beat in terms of spectral
efficiency.  SSB puts just enough power into the right spectrum for near
loss less communication.  When you try to stuff the equivalent power into a
low bit rate digital signal, the energy per bit is quite high, meaning
you've got to lower your bit rate substantially until the two powers (SSB
and DV) are the same.  At this low bit rate (<600bps) there is no avoiding
the donald duck or robotic voices at this point.  That pesky information
theory gets in the way.  Lots of great progress has been made in this
regard (i.e. Codec2), however it will be a while before the necessary
200-600MHz hard float DSP will be required in a K3S.  Besides I'm sure a
suitable retrofit DSP module can be squeezed in there somewhere when the
time comes.

73

Matthew
VK5ZM

On 18 September 2015 at 10:33, Robert Nobis  wrote:

> Take a look at the digital voice modes that are being used on the VHF and
> UHF bands: DMR, D-STAR and Fusion.
>
>
> Bob Nobis - N7RJN
> n7...@nobis.net
>
>
> > On Sep 17, 2015, at 17:49, Richard Fjeld  wrote:
> >
> > I was in to freeDV a year or two ago, and it has a long way to go.
> Still, it did work.
> >
> > I'm told the bandwidth has increased since then from 1200 hertz to 1600
> hertz at present, which will be an improvement.
> > At 1200 hertz, voices sounded robotic in nature.  it lost sync often
> which may, or may not, have been due to the compression.
> >
> > I haven't heard of the FCC's having ruled on it's mode and/or where if
> permitted.  I haven't been keeping up with it either.
> >
> > Dick, n0ce
> >
> >
> > On 9/17/2015 1:00 PM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:
> >> I'm wondering since Digital voice is replacing FM around the world how
> hard
> >> it would be to add another mode to the K3S? I'm not even sure what the
> >> standards are but one country just set the date to get rid of FM
> permanently
> >> and switch to DV.
> >>
> >> Jerry Moore
> >> AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 10324
> >>
> >>
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] Product Suggestion - 500W Dummy Load

[Don Wilhelm]

While a dummy load that has a power rating greater than your maximum 
transmit power is a worthwhile addition to any hamshack - at higher 
power levels, I do not see them being used as precision measurement 
devices, but only as a temporary load for the purposes of "tuning up" or 
operating into a dummy load for test purposes.


While the "Tune Up" situation has been largely eliminated for "No Tune" 
amplifiers, there is still the question of how to do a TUNE into an 
antenna when you have a tuner such as the KAT500 in line - but that 
tunes into the antenna at reduced power with the Elecraft K-line, and 
the tune cycle is relatively short.


The net that I see of all that is one does not need a precision dummy 
load for high power levels.
At the 100 watt level, I do find a need for precision dummy loads which 
can be used for lab measurement devices, bu at higher power levels in 
the normal hamshack, I do not understand a need for a precise 50 ohm 
non-inductive load (as long as you do not stray too far from that 50 ohm 
point.


In other words, the gallon size "cantenna" dummy loads should suffice 
for most purposes in the ham shack that I can conceive of - primarily 
providing a suitable load for a high power transmitter for routine test 
purposes.


Those who do precision measurements at high power levels will have to 
invest in precision dummy loads, but for typical ham use, I don't think 
that level of precision is necessary.  Such precision comes at a cost.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/17/2015 8:19 PM, Byron Peebles wrote:

I'd love to find Elecraft offering a 500W dummy load to match the K-Line.
No one even makes a sturdy paint can anymore.

73, Byron
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Re: [Elecraft] Why black is the hot wire

[Matthew Cook]

Yes this makes wiring 220V US equipment in foreign countries like VK even
more exciting, since we're the other way round...  Black is Neutral.

73

Matthew
 VK5ZM

On 18 September 2015 at 02:41, David Robertson  wrote:

> At the early part of the 20th century, when electricians were wiring houses
> (knob and tube), the color of the electrical wire was only black. The power
> companies found that one side of the power feed (center tap on 220) to the
> house or building had to be grounded to prevent voltage buildup on the
> power lines. In order for the electricians to keep track of the grounded
> side (neutral)  of the power feed they painted the grounded (neutral) wire
> white. Soon after the wire manufacturers started making both black and
> white wires so the electricians now could safely wire buildings without
> resorting to painting the ground wire white.
>
> 73
> --
> Dave Robertson KD1NA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Digital Voice Mode - our future?

[Gary]

Don,

Absolutely spot on sir.

Gary 

-Original Message-
From: "Don Wilhelm" 
Sent: ‎18/‎09/‎2015 11:30 AM
To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Digital Voice Mode - our future?

You have listed 3 digital voice modes that do not talk to each other.  
Furthermore, I recall that these are proprietary coding schemes.
That is not "Ham Radio" in my mind.  Ham Radio is "everyone can talk to 
everyone else", and those digital voice systems where you can only talk 
to those hams who have purchased the same brand of equipment as you have 
selected is more like commercial circuits where you want to shut out 
those who do not 'speak the same language that you do'.

I don't think proprietary protocols belong on the ham bands - just my 
not so humble opinion.  Yes, I am also opposed to proprietary data modes.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/17/2015 9:03 PM, Robert Nobis wrote:
> Take a look at the digital voice modes that are being used on the VHF and UHF 
> bands: DMR, D-STAR and Fusion.
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Digital Voice Mode - our future?

[Richard Fjeld]

I was in to freeDV a year or two ago, and it has a long way to go. 
Still, it did work.


I'm told the bandwidth has increased since then from 1200 hertz to 1600 
hertz at present, which will be an improvement.
At 1200 hertz, voices sounded robotic in nature.  it lost sync often 
which may, or may not, have been due to the compression.


I haven't heard of the FCC's having ruled on it's mode and/or where if 
permitted.  I haven't been keeping up with it either.


Dick, n0ce


On 9/17/2015 1:00 PM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:

I'm wondering since Digital voice is replacing FM around the world how hard
it would be to add another mode to the K3S? I'm not even sure what the
standards are but one country just set the date to get rid of FM permanently
and switch to DV.

Jerry Moore
AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 10324




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[Elecraft] Fwd: WSJT KX3 and GPS

[Jerry Wright]

Sent from Jerry's iPhone


Begin forwarded message:

> From: wb7ond 
> Date: September 17, 2015 at 11:42:44 AM PDT
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] WSJT KX3 and GPS
> 
> When running WSJT with my KX3 portable, I use a program called  NMEATIME in
> conjunction with a  HOLUX bluetooth GPS receiver.  My Holux is an older one,
> but Amazon has a couple  newer models there, not too expensive.  When you
> pair and connect the Holux, it shows up as a comport in the Windows device
> manager.  When you launch NMEATime program, you can set its input as either
> SNTP from the internet, or via a comport from a GPS receiver.  I use both. 
> But, when portable I set the Holux out for a clear "sky" view and when the
> leds on the receiver are showing good GPS connect, NMEA data comes through
> the comport to the NMEATime program, it locks in and the resulting time
> clock is right on.  I think though  you have to purchase the program to get
> it to sync/change the Windows system time.  I purchased mine, so I don't
> remember.  The little battery in the Holux lasts me the whole day.  Oh one
> last thing, I connect a string to the Holux receiver, and run it to the
> computer, so I do not have to run back to the park, when I realize I left it
> there... (:0
> 
> Dick
> wb7ond 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/WSJT-KX3-and-GPS-tp7607428p7607905.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Digital Voice Mode - our future?

[Robert Nobis]

Take a look at the digital voice modes that are being used on the VHF and UHF 
bands: DMR, D-STAR and Fusion.


Bob Nobis - N7RJN
n7...@nobis.net


> On Sep 17, 2015, at 17:49, Richard Fjeld  wrote:
> 
> I was in to freeDV a year or two ago, and it has a long way to go. Still, it 
> did work.
> 
> I'm told the bandwidth has increased since then from 1200 hertz to 1600 hertz 
> at present, which will be an improvement.
> At 1200 hertz, voices sounded robotic in nature.  it lost sync often which 
> may, or may not, have been due to the compression.
> 
> I haven't heard of the FCC's having ruled on it's mode and/or where if 
> permitted.  I haven't been keeping up with it either.
> 
> Dick, n0ce
> 
> 
> On 9/17/2015 1:00 PM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:
>> I'm wondering since Digital voice is replacing FM around the world how hard
>> it would be to add another mode to the K3S? I'm not even sure what the
>> standards are but one country just set the date to get rid of FM permanently
>> and switch to DV.
>> 
>> Jerry Moore
>> AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 10324
>> 
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Digital Voice Mode - our future?

[Richard Fjeld]

FreeDV does not require a repeater.


On 9/17/2015 8:03 PM, Robert Nobis wrote:

Take a look at the digital voice modes that are being used on the VHF and UHF 
bands: DMR, D-STAR and Fusion.


Bob Nobis - N7RJN
n7...@nobis.net



On Sep 17, 2015, at 17:49, Richard Fjeld  wrote:

I was in to freeDV a year or two ago, and it has a long way to go. Still, it 
did work.

I'm told the bandwidth has increased since then from 1200 hertz to 1600 hertz 
at present, which will be an improvement.
At 1200 hertz, voices sounded robotic in nature.  it lost sync often which may, 
or may not, have been due to the compression.

I haven't heard of the FCC's having ruled on it's mode and/or where if 
permitted.  I haven't been keeping up with it either.

Dick, n0ce


On 9/17/2015 1:00 PM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:

I'm wondering since Digital voice is replacing FM around the world how hard
it would be to add another mode to the K3S? I'm not even sure what the
standards are but one country just set the date to get rid of FM permanently
and switch to DV.

Jerry Moore
AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 10324



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Re: [Elecraft] Product Suggestion - 500W Dummy Load

[GRANT YOUNGMAN]

> On 9/17/2015 8:19 PM, Byron Peebles wrote:
>> I'd love to find Elecraft offering a 500W dummy load to match the K-Line.
>> No one even makes a sturdy paint can anymore.
>> 

Actually, Ameritron still makes a “Cantenna" style dummy load.  I’ve had the 
same one sitting under my desk for 20+ years. 

Grant NQ5T

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Re: [Elecraft] Product Suggestion - 500W Dummy Load

[Matthew Cook]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DUMMY-LOAD-RESISTOR-HYBRID-TERMINATION-800W-50OHM-DC-1GHZ-17-0376-DICONEX-/191284146241?hash=item2c896c7041

Heatsink, length of coax and a plug... finished !

73

Matthew
VK5ZM

On 18 September 2015 at 09:49, Byron Peebles  wrote:

> I'd love to find Elecraft offering a 500W dummy load to match the K-Line.
> No one even makes a sturdy paint can anymore.
>
> 73, Byron
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Re: [Elecraft] Product Suggestion - 500W Dummy Load

[Bob McGraw - K4TAX]

Don, et al:

I do agree that we typically do not need a precision load nor do we 
likely need a "full legal limit CCS" load.   Most loads have a power vs. 
time de-rating curve.  Just following that practice will save on lots of 
$$ and space.


Yes the Cantenna loads are generally suitable.  I find the Z to be 50 
ohms +/- 10% or so.  They will handle legal limit power for 2 or3 
minutes and 100 to 300 watt power for almost CCS times.  As a rule, they 
are good for HF and become a bit less so suitable for VHF.


I prefer dry loads as they are less "messy" where one uses an oil filled 
load it seems they all want to weep a bit.  Oh my gosh should on kick 
one over and the lid separate.  As a suggestion, solder the lid in place 
at 3 or 4 locations around the edge.


It would do well for folks to consider switching and tuning methods so 
as not to put a signal on the air.  Although this typically can't be 
done with automatic type tuners,  with manual tuners, using an antenna 
bridge will allow one to adjust the tuner for a proper match and not put 
a signal on the air.Then with older amps, tuning those into a dummy 
load again will not put a signal on the air. When the amp is switched to 
the tuner then all is well and no QRM has been generated.


73 Bob, K4TAX

K3S s/n 10,163


On 9/17/2015 8:37 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
While a dummy load that has a power rating greater than your maximum 
transmit power is a worthwhile addition to any hamshack - at higher 
power levels, I do not see them being used as precision measurement 
devices, but only as a temporary load for the purposes of "tuning up" 
or operating into a dummy load for test purposes.


While the "Tune Up" situation has been largely eliminated for "No 
Tune" amplifiers, there is still the question of how to do a TUNE into 
an antenna when you have a tuner such as the KAT500 in line - but that 
tunes into the antenna at reduced power with the Elecraft K-line, and 
the tune cycle is relatively short.


The net that I see of all that is one does not need a precision dummy 
load for high power levels.
At the 100 watt level, I do find a need for precision dummy loads 
which can be used for lab measurement devices, bu at higher power 
levels in the normal hamshack, I do not understand a need for a 
precise 50 ohm non-inductive load (as long as you do not stray too far 
from that 50 ohm point.


In other words, the gallon size "cantenna" dummy loads should suffice 
for most purposes in the ham shack that I can conceive of - primarily 
providing a suitable load for a high power transmitter for routine 
test purposes.


Those who do precision measurements at high power levels will have to 
invest in precision dummy loads, but for typical ham use, I don't 
think that level of precision is necessary.  Such precision comes at a 
cost.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/17/2015 8:19 PM, Byron Peebles wrote:
I'd love to find Elecraft offering a 500W dummy load to match the 
K-Line.

No one even makes a sturdy paint can anymore.

73, Byron
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Re: [Elecraft] Product Suggestion - 500W Dummy Load

[Bob McGraw - K4TAX]

Don't forget to add a BIG heat sink to the materials list along with 
some thermal compound.


73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S s/n 10,163

On 9/17/2015 9:15 PM, Matthew Cook wrote:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DUMMY-LOAD-RESISTOR-HYBRID-TERMINATION-800W-50OHM-DC-1GHZ-17-0376-DICONEX-/191284146241?hash=item2c896c7041

Heatsink, length of coax and a plug... finished !

73

Matthew
VK5ZM

On 18 September 2015 at 09:49, Byron Peebles  wrote:


I'd love to find Elecraft offering a 500W dummy load to match the K-Line.
No one even makes a sturdy paint can anymore.

73, Byron
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Re: [Elecraft] Product Suggestion - 500W Dummy Load

[Fred Jensen]

Strangely, these non-inductive resistors do not last forever.  When I 
came home from SE Asia to Houston in 67, I filled my Heath  with mineral 
oil [interesting story on a Sunday], and it measured 51 ohms DC.  Today, 
it measures 74 ohms DC.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
- www.cqp.org


On 9/17/2015 7:12 PM, GRANT YOUNGMAN wrote:



On 9/17/2015 8:19 PM, Byron Peebles wrote:

I'd love to find Elecraft offering a 500W dummy load to match the K-Line.
No one even makes a sturdy paint can anymore.



Actually, Ameritron still makes a “Cantenna" style dummy load.  I’ve had the 
same one sitting under my desk for 20+ years.

Grant NQ5T


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Re: [Elecraft] Product Suggestion - 500W Dummy Load

[Cliff Frescura]

Maybe the dummy load could be an option for the speaker /s

73,

Cliff K3LL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred 
Jensen
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 7:36 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Product Suggestion - 500W Dummy Load

Strangely, these non-inductive resistors do not last forever.  When I came home 
from SE Asia to Houston in 67, I filled my Heath  with mineral oil [interesting 
story on a Sunday], and it measured 51 ohms DC.  Today, it measures 74 ohms DC.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
- www.cqp.org


On 9/17/2015 7:12 PM, GRANT YOUNGMAN wrote:
>
>> On 9/17/2015 8:19 PM, Byron Peebles wrote:
>>> I'd love to find Elecraft offering a 500W dummy load to match the K-Line.
>>> No one even makes a sturdy paint can anymore.
>>>
>
> Actually, Ameritron still makes a “Cantenna" style dummy load.  I’ve had the 
> same one sitting under my desk for 20+ years.
>
> Grant NQ5T

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[Elecraft] Product Suggestion - 500W Dummy Load

[Byron Peebles]

I'd love to find Elecraft offering a 500W dummy load to match the K-Line.
No one even makes a sturdy paint can anymore.

73, Byron
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Re: [Elecraft] Product Suggestion - 500W Dummy Load

[Bob McGraw - K4TAX]

Here you can find some nice 500 watt CCS Bird loads for $250 or so.

http://www.nm3e.com/loadSampler.htm#LoadSampler

Otherwise, it is Ameritron and MFJ  that have the gallon bucket loads 
with oil for under $100.


73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S s/n 10,163

On 9/17/2015 7:19 PM, Byron Peebles wrote:

I'd love to find Elecraft offering a 500W dummy load to match the K-Line.
No one even makes a sturdy paint can anymore.

73, Byron
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Digital Voice Mode - our future?

[Sandy]

I could not agree more Don!   There isn't much advantage for amateur 
radio to digital voice operations.   Just another "kink in the wire"!
No advantage at all.  All the digital voice stuff I have heard sounds 
terrible at times.  Motorola's system (proprietary no doubt!) can sound

absolutely awful when signal conditions are bad.

73, to all,

Sandy W5TVW

On 9/17/2015 8:28 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
You have listed 3 digital voice modes that do not talk to each other. 
Furthermore, I recall that these are proprietary coding schemes.
That is not "Ham Radio" in my mind.  Ham Radio is "everyone can talk 
to everyone else", and those digital voice systems where you can only 
talk to those hams who have purchased the same brand of equipment as 
you have selected is more like commercial circuits where you want to 
shut out those who do not 'speak the same language that you do'.


I don't think proprietary protocols belong on the ham bands - just my 
not so humble opinion.  Yes, I am also opposed to proprietary data modes.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/17/2015 9:03 PM, Robert Nobis wrote:
Take a look at the digital voice modes that are being used on the VHF 
and UHF bands: DMR, D-STAR and Fusion.





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Re: [Elecraft] Manuals: Old-Radio...specially Zverev

[jsodus]

Hello, 

This note is about Zverev's book "Handbook of Filter Synthesis". 

As far as I know, there was only one edition. 
If there was a second, then perhaps the errors were corrected. 
Maybe there is an errata-sheet available 

But, if one is buying the first edition, be aware that the book is full of 
mistakes. 
Three things that come to mind most notably are: 
1. the section on band-reject filters. 
2. element values for the Cauer designs did not match up to the gold-standard I 
used; it is regrettable that I cannot recall the name of that book (maybe by 
Telefunken) because it has been almost twenty years since I used it; 
personally, I would not trust any Cauer values from Zverev. 
3. toward the end of Zverev, his chapter on network transformations (equivalent 
circuits) has issues as well. 

I used Zverev from 1970 to 1997 and marked-up in red pencil the mistakes 
concerning designs on an "as needed" basis. 
Usually the mistakes were encountered while under a pressure deadline to get a 
quote out quickly. 

Not that it probably matters now-a-days but, if you wanted to make a n=6 or n=8 
0.05 degree phase-ripple crystal-filter, Zverev does not have it. 

Zverev's style of writing was to take a simple task and write it up as 
incredibly complicated as can humanly be done; just my opinion. 

73 Jerry KM3K 
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Re: [Elecraft] On VHF & UHF radios

[Dave Olean]

Hi Josh
Young is anyone who has hair left that isn't white.  I think I did tune a 
bunch of phasing lines for Bob and his six meter antenna. I had an HP 875D 
network analyzer and could trim them to one degree. On the higher bands, I 
used a belt sander to trim the coax! It was a good way to trim the cables 
accurately.


Dave K1WHS
- Original Message - 
From: "Josh" 

To: "Dave Olean" 
Cc: ; "Bob McGraw - K4TAX" 
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] On VHF & UHF radios



How young is young? :)

73,
Josh W6XU

P.S. Bob K6QXY says you cut the phasing lines for my 6m EME array.

Sent from my mobile device


On Sep 17, 2015, at 10:44 AM, Dave Olean  wrote:

no young ones to replace them 


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[Elecraft] Serious weak-signal VHF operators?

[Jim Lowman]

Well, Dave, your observations have caused me to take a second look at
the K3(S) with transverters for VHF/UHF weak-signal work.

The only problem is, an amplifier to bring the 2m power output of the 2m
option for the K3(S) up to 120w or so is around $650 (looking at Mirage)
and 120w is not all that much power, absent an antenna with very high gain.

But your observation as to the number of serious weak-signal operators
caused me to do some research.

Looking back 10 years to the 2004 June ARRL VHF contest, and comparing
it with the results for the same contest in 2014, the total number of
stations submitting logs actually increased from 766 to 1,042.
I'd have to say that these results show that we still have a good number
of serious weak-signal operators.

The January VHF contests from the same 10-year span showed a decrease
from 833 to 622 logs submitted, but I might attribute that to having a
larger number of operators being able to set up shop on mountaintops,
whether portable or rover class, due to better weather conditions in June.

The sample size of 1,042 goes to prove what Eric (Elecraft) stated about
the limited market for a dedicated VHF/UHF transceiver - and these
operators obviously have the required equipment already.

73 de Jim - AD6CW

On 9/17/2015 10:44 AM, Dave Olean wrote:

There used to be a larger number of "serious weak signal VHF
operators, but the serious VHF operators are all dying off with no
young ones to replace them. I use three K3s and  three K2s in my VHF
station. I have one Ten Tec OMNI V as well on 432. The big difference
between a great HF vs VHF radio is that LO purity and reciprical
mixing performance is paramount on VHF, while HF requires the close in
dynamic range to be exemplary. I have yet to see a good multi mode or
"do all" radio from any manufacturer. I have never used one in my
station as a result. Strong signals on VHf can be a huge problem when
giant antennas and high locations are in use. Stations 60 or 70 miles
away can clobber you very easily. ERP levels can approach 150 KW.
   I have always been intrigued by the Sherwood numbers for the
Kenwood TS-820S and TS-830 with YK88 filters. They don't look so bad
in the listing, but they were awful on VHF in strong signal
environments with high gain (20 dBd) antennas. Local oscillator noise
did not cut it.  The K3 with the new synthesizer is about 40 db or
more better. I had the Kenwoods back in the 90's and dumped them for
K2s and Ten Tec radios. What a difference. The K3 is icing on the
cake. I started using them soon after they came out. They are great on
VHF and not too shabby on 160 meters also. (heh heh) I don't think I
can recall an overload problem with the Elecraft radios or the Ten Tec
OMNI for that matter. The OMNI V used crystal oscillators in the 1st
LO, so it was pretty clean. The new K3 synthesizer is awesome. It can
handle a 0 dBm signal next to a -135 dBm signal and live to tell about
it!
   I have the 144 built in transverter in one of my K3's, but have not
used it as it is too low power to drive my big amplifier. Someday I'll
resolve that situation and it should work great. Of course VHF
contesting is different in different parts of the country. I live in
rural Maine about 250 or 275 miles from New York City.  I am on the
edge of the golden activity corridor. From my place, it is unwise to
use multi mode Japanese rigs for serious contesting. Between the
deafness and LO phase noise problems, you would have your hands full.
Another ham 50 miles away could have a KW and large antenna that was
line of sight or almost line of sight, and squash your receiver like a
bug. Every  VHF band here has a good HF radio for the receiver. K3s,
K2s, and one OMNI V from Ten Tec

Dave K1WHS



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[Elecraft] OT: Oil-filled dummy load suggestions

[Ken G Kopp]

In the case of the Heath "Cantenna" and similar
type loads, the top surface of the oil must be above
the top of the aluminum tube housing the resistor.
If it isn't the oil's circulation upward through the tube
and past the resistor will be severely limited.

The heating and cooling through use -will- cause
the can the "breathe" air out and in via the spring
loaded vent.  This will eventually result in droplets
of water collecting in the bottom of the can and will
eventually rust a hole and the can will leak. These
water droplets can be sucked up with a kitchen
baster and Tygon tubing.  Replacement gallon cans
can usually be obtained from a paint store.  It's still
a good idea to set the load in a plastic bucket. (:-)

As a retired power company employee I'll offer the
following about the dangers of PCB-based "transformer
oil" from my employer's transformer maintenance folks.

It's been many decades since there was PCB-based oil
commonly in use and the likely hood of someone coming
into the possession of PCB contaminated oil is mostly an
urban legend.

I've seen men standing chest-deep in oil inside a large
substation transformer while doing repair or changing a tap.

73!

Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] Product Suggestion - 500W Dummy Load

[Don Wilhelm]

My "gallon size" dummy load is not a Heath, but that was inspiration for 
mine.  I came across a bunch of 620 ohm 20 watt carbon resistors a long 
time ago.
I wired 12 of them in parallel and put them into a gallon can of mineral 
oil.  That dummy load still measures 51 ohms over the bands from 80 thru 
10 meters with a minimal amount of inductance - and it is over 40 years 
after I first built it.


I figure since it will do 240 watts in open air, in the oil, it should 
take the legal limit for relatively short periods, but I have not 
subjected it to more than 500 watts.


Yes, I have heard stories about how the Heath resistors changed value, 
but my 'substitute' has not changed over the years.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/17/2015 10:36 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
Strangely, these non-inductive resistors do not last forever.  When I 
came home from SE Asia to Houston in 67, I filled my Heath  with 
mineral oil [interesting story on a Sunday], and it measured 51 ohms 
DC.  Today, it measures 74 ohms DC.




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[Elecraft] (no subject)

[jmlowman]

Well, Dave, your observations have caused me to take a second look at 
the K3(S) with transverters for VHF/UHF weak-signal work.


The only problem is, an amplifier to bring the 2m power output of the 2m 
option for the K3(S) up to 120w or so is around $650 (looking at Mirage) 
and 120w is not all that much power, absent an antenna with very high gain.


But your observation as to the number of serious weak-signal operators 
caused me to do some research.


Looking back 10 years to the 2004 June ARRL VHF contest, and comparing 
it with the results for the same contest in 2014, the total number of 
stations submitting logs actually increased from 766 to 1,042.
I'd have to say that these results show that we still have a good number 
of serious weak-signal operators.


The January VHF contests from the same 10-year span showed a decrease 
from 833 to 622 logs submitted, but I might attribute that to having a 
larger number of operators being able to set up shop on mountaintops, 
whether portable or rover class, due to better weather conditions in June.


The sample size of 1,042 goes to prove what Eric (Elecraft) stated about 
the limited market for a dedicated VHF/UHF transceiver - and these 
operators obviously have the required equipment already.


73 de Jim - AD6CW

On 9/17/2015 10:44 AM, Dave Olean wrote:
There used to be a larger number of "serious weak signal VHF 
operators, but the serious VHF operators are all dying off with no 
young ones to replace them. I use three K3s and  three K2s in my VHF 
station. I have one Ten Tec OMNI V as well on 432. The big difference 
between a great HF vs VHF radio is that LO purity and reciprical 
mixing performance is paramount on VHF, while HF requires the close in 
dynamic range to be exemplary. I have yet to see a good multi mode or 
"do all" radio from any manufacturer. I have never used one in my 
station as a result. Strong signals on VHf can be a huge problem when 
giant antennas and high locations are in use. Stations 60 or 70 miles 
away can clobber you very easily. ERP levels can approach 150 KW.
   I have always been intrigued by the Sherwood numbers for the 
Kenwood TS-820S and TS-830 with YK88 filters. They don't look so bad 
in the listing, but they were awful on VHF in strong signal 
environments with high gain (20 dBd) antennas. Local oscillator noise 
did not cut it.  The K3 with the new synthesizer is about 40 db or 
more better. I had the Kenwoods back in the 90's and dumped them for 
K2s and Ten Tec radios. What a difference. The K3 is icing on the 
cake. I started using them soon after they came out. They are great on 
VHF and not too shabby on 160 meters also. (heh heh) I don't think I 
can recall an overload problem with the Elecraft radios or the Ten Tec 
OMNI for that matter. The OMNI V used crystal oscillators in the 1st 
LO, so it was pretty clean. The new K3 synthesizer is awesome. It can 
handle a 0 dBm signal next to a -135 dBm signal and live to tell about 
it!
   I have the 144 built in transverter in one of my K3's, but have not 
used it as it is too low power to drive my big amplifier. Someday I'll 
resolve that situation and it should work great. Of course VHF 
contesting is different in different parts of the country. I live in 
rural Maine about 250 or 275 miles from New York City.  I am on the 
edge of the golden activity corridor. From my place, it is unwise to 
use multi mode Japanese rigs for serious contesting. Between the 
deafness and LO phase noise problems, you would have your hands full. 
Another ham 50 miles away could have a KW and large antenna that was 
line of sight or almost line of sight, and squash your receiver like a 
bug. Every  VHF band here has a good HF radio for the receiver. K3s, 
K2s, and one OMNI V from Ten Tec


Dave K1WHS


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Digital Voice Mode - our future?

[Don Wilhelm]

There are advantages to digital voice, but for Amateur Band use, I don't 
think we are "there yet".  When we see an 'open source' digital voice 
mode that is published and can be implemented by any amateur, then I may 
change my position, but that is not the situation today.  I do not 
believe that proprietary modes of any sort should be permitted on the 
ham bands.


One characteristic of digital streaming 'anything' is that if the signal 
'loses sync', things go to pot, and you have to wait until it syncs up 
again.  With fading on an analog signal, you can usually fill in the 
gaps, but with digital, it is all or nothing.  When it is "all", it is 
great, but the gaps are annoying - plus the quality is determined by the 
bit rate in the encoding/decoding algorithms.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/17/2015 11:16 PM, Sandy wrote:
I could not agree more Don!   There isn't much advantage for amateur 
radio to digital voice operations.   Just another "kink in the wire"!
No advantage at all.  All the digital voice stuff I have heard sounds 
terrible at times.  Motorola's system (proprietary no doubt!) can sound

absolutely awful when signal conditions are bad.



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Re: [Elecraft] Product Suggestion - 500W Dummy Load

[Walter Underwood]

Some non-inductive resistors do not have the coating that protects from the 
oil. Those will rise in resistance over time. 

This article has more than you ever wanted to know about the Cantenna and 
modern equivalents.

http://www.orcadxcc.org/content/cantenna_va7jw.pdf 


wunder
K6WRU
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Sep 17, 2015, at 8:15 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> My "gallon size" dummy load is not a Heath, but that was inspiration for 
> mine.  I came across a bunch of 620 ohm 20 watt carbon resistors a long time 
> ago.
> I wired 12 of them in parallel and put them into a gallon can of mineral oil. 
>  That dummy load still measures 51 ohms over the bands from 80 thru 10 meters 
> with a minimal amount of inductance - and it is over 40 years after I first 
> built it.
> 
> I figure since it will do 240 watts in open air, in the oil, it should take 
> the legal limit for relatively short periods, but I have not subjected it to 
> more than 500 watts.
> 
> Yes, I have heard stories about how the Heath resistors changed value, but my 
> 'substitute' has not changed over the years.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 9/17/2015 10:36 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
>> Strangely, these non-inductive resistors do not last forever.  When I came 
>> home from SE Asia to Houston in 67, I filled my Heath  with mineral oil 
>> [interesting story on a Sunday], and it measured 51 ohms DC.  Today, it 
>> measures 74 ohms DC.
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Product Suggestion - 500W Dummy Load

[Jim Brown]

On Thu,9/17/2015 6:37 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
While a dummy load that has a power rating greater than your maximum 
transmit power is a worthwhile addition to any hamshack - at higher 
power levels, I do not see them being used as precision measurement 
devices, but only as a temporary load for the purposes of "tuning up" 
or operating into a dummy load for test purposes. 


Remember also that dummy load ratings include a duty cycle. The cheap 
stuff has a very short duty cycle -- one might be rated 100W for 1 
minute. :) It's all about heat -- do you get hot enough to damage it?


Duty cycle can be interpreted two ways. One is to use a series of dits 
to tune up, which gets you to full power but half the time. That's what 
I do. I just sold a nice little keyer-pulser that W2VJN used to make. 
Its duty cycle could be adjusted as low as 20%.


Another way to interpret it is how LONG you transmit into it. My big 
professional oil filled dummy load is rated 500W for a long time (don't 
remember the spec). I transmit dits (and even RTTY) into it at legal 
limit for a minute or so, and it doesn't overheat. And then I let it 
cool off.


73, Jim K9YC




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Digital Voice Mode - our future?

[Walter Underwood]

FreeDV is open source. You can use the FreeDV API 
(http://www.rowetel.com/blog/?p=3469 ) or 
get a box that will implement it and can be updated with new protocols 
(http://www.rowetel.com/blog/?page_id=3902 
). Or you can download the FreeDV 
app. Or download the source, either one from here: 
http://freedv.org/tiki-index.php 

Dave Rowe (VK5DGR)  is actively improving both the HF and VHF variants of 
FreeDV, with very interesting articles on his blog. He’s working on a low 
bitrate version for nasty HF signal paths (FreeDV 700), and is working on a VHF 
digital voice mode with two levels of fidelity always transmitted. When you get 
more signal, you get more fidelity (http://www.rowetel.com/blog/?p=3931 
).

Here are some samples of the current 700 bitrate codec: 
http://www.rowetel.com/blog/?p=4291 

And some A/B comparison QSOs with SSB and FreeDV: 
http://www.rowetel.com/blog/?p=4527 

Dave is doing some very exciting stuff, I’m impressed. And it’s all free.

wunder
K6WRU
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Sep 17, 2015, at 8:41 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> There are advantages to digital voice, but for Amateur Band use, I don't 
> think we are "there yet".  When we see an 'open source' digital voice mode 
> that is published and can be implemented by any amateur, then I may change my 
> position, but that is not the situation today.  I do not believe that 
> proprietary modes of any sort should be permitted on the ham bands.
> 
> One characteristic of digital streaming 'anything' is that if the signal 
> 'loses sync', things go to pot, and you have to wait until it syncs up again. 
>  With fading on an analog signal, you can usually fill in the gaps, but with 
> digital, it is all or nothing.  When it is "all", it is great, but the gaps 
> are annoying - plus the quality is determined by the bit rate in the 
> encoding/decoding algorithms.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 9/17/2015 11:16 PM, Sandy wrote:
>> I could not agree more Don!   There isn't much advantage for amateur radio 
>> to digital voice operations.   Just another "kink in the wire"!
>> No advantage at all.  All the digital voice stuff I have heard sounds 
>> terrible at times.  Motorola's system (proprietary no doubt!) can sound
>> absolutely awful when signal conditions are bad.
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Digital Voice Mode - our future?

[Richard Fjeld]

Yes he is. Oh, to be that capable.


On 9/17/2015 11:53 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:

FreeDV is open source. You can use the FreeDV API (http://www.rowetel.com/blog/?p=3469 
) or get a box that will implement it and can be 
updated with new protocols (http://www.rowetel.com/blog/?page_id=3902 
). Or you can download the FreeDV app. Or 
download the source, either one from here: http://freedv.org/tiki-index.php 


Dave Rowe (VK5DGR)  is actively improving both the HF and VHF variants of FreeDV, 
with very interesting articles on his blog. He’s working on a low bitrate version for 
nasty HF signal paths (FreeDV 700), and is working on a VHF digital voice mode with 
two levels of fidelity always transmitted. When you get more signal, you get more 
fidelity (http://www.rowetel.com/blog/?p=3931 
).

Here are some samples of the current 700 bitrate codec: 
http://www.rowetel.com/blog/?p=4291 

And some A/B comparison QSOs with SSB and FreeDV: http://www.rowetel.com/blog/?p=4527 


Dave is doing some very exciting stuff, I’m impressed. And it’s all free.

wunder
K6WRU
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Digital Voice Mode - our future?

[Matthew Cook]

Just to make sure we carry some Elecraft content you might like to look at
the following URL's

http://www.rowetel.com/blog/?p=4584
http://www.areg.org.au/?p=1719

And the code for both the Codec2 and FreeDV is freely available here;

https://github.com/freedv

73

Matthew
VK5ZM


On 18 September 2015 at 14:23, Walter Underwood 
wrote:

> FreeDV is open source. You can use the FreeDV API (
> http://www.rowetel.com/blog/?p=3469 )
> or get a box that will implement it and can be updated with new protocols (
> http://www.rowetel.com/blog/?page_id=3902 <
> http://www.rowetel.com/blog/?page_id=3902>). Or you can download the
> FreeDV app. Or download the source, either one from here:
> http://freedv.org/tiki-index.php 
>
> Dave Rowe (VK5DGR)  is actively improving both the HF and VHF variants of
> FreeDV, with very interesting articles on his blog. He’s working on a low
> bitrate version for nasty HF signal paths (FreeDV 700), and is working on a
> VHF digital voice mode with two levels of fidelity always transmitted. When
> you get more signal, you get more fidelity (
> http://www.rowetel.com/blog/?p=3931  >).
>
> Here are some samples of the current 700 bitrate codec:
> http://www.rowetel.com/blog/?p=4291 
>
> And some A/B comparison QSOs with SSB and FreeDV:
> http://www.rowetel.com/blog/?p=4527 
>
> Dave is doing some very exciting stuff, I’m impressed. And it’s all free.
>
> wunder
> K6WRU
> CM87wj
> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
>
> > On Sep 17, 2015, at 8:41 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> >
> > There are advantages to digital voice, but for Amateur Band use, I don't
> think we are "there yet".  When we see an 'open source' digital voice mode
> that is published and can be implemented by any amateur, then I may change
> my position, but that is not the situation today.  I do not believe that
> proprietary modes of any sort should be permitted on the ham bands.
> >
> > One characteristic of digital streaming 'anything' is that if the signal
> 'loses sync', things go to pot, and you have to wait until it syncs up
> again.  With fading on an analog signal, you can usually fill in the gaps,
> but with digital, it is all or nothing.  When it is "all", it is great, but
> the gaps are annoying - plus the quality is determined by the bit rate in
> the encoding/decoding algorithms.
> >
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> >
> > On 9/17/2015 11:16 PM, Sandy wrote:
> >> I could not agree more Don!   There isn't much advantage for amateur
> radio to digital voice operations.   Just another "kink in the wire"!
> >> No advantage at all.  All the digital voice stuff I have heard sounds
> terrible at times.  Motorola's system (proprietary no doubt!) can sound
> >> absolutely awful when signal conditions are bad.
> >>
> >
> > __
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)

[Jim Brown]

On Thu,9/17/2015 8:40 PM, jmlow...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
The only problem is, an amplifier to bring the 2m power output of the 
2m option for the K3(S) up to 120w or so is around $650 (looking at 
Mirage) and 120w is not all that much power, absent an antenna with 
very high gain. 


Remember I said yesterday that I found four vintage (meaning good 
quality, NorCal) Mirage or RF Concepts brick amps just by asking on 
local club reflectors? The most I paid was $100. All four were in good 
working condition. They put out about 150W.


73, Jim K9YC
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