Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 and KAT2

2016-04-15 Thread lstavenhagen
I researched this at one point also, and I believe you can't have them in
there at the same time. There's not room for the KAT2 and the KPA100 both in
the same top cover and I don't believe it'll even work electrically.

So you're pretty much stuck with one or the other and an external tuner in
the case of the K2/100. 

If I go QRO, I'm soon to have 4 10W rigs so I'm looking at the KXPA100 with
a tuner in it. And just using that with all the rigs, one at a time of
course. For my K2's, that'll involve putting in a keying circuit and of
course that's going to be the 2-boxes thing when I go /p. 

Haven't definitely decided on it, but that may be the most economical option
for me.

73,
LS
W5QD



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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 and KAT2

2016-04-15 Thread Brian Denley
Ted:
You might look into building the K2/100 in the 'Twins' configuration.  To 
switch from 100 watts to qrp just requires disconnection the power amp box.  
This configuration allows the KAT2 to be used along with the high power tuner.  
I built mine that way and it works very well.

Brian 
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 15, 2016, at 10:56 PM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
> A question for those who have the K2/100 ---
> 
> I finished building and am now becoming familiar with operating the K2/100 
> and the KAT100-1.  It’s a great combination; but for portable work it’s heavy 
> and there are two boxes.  At the time I bought it I did not purchase the KAT2 
> – the internal low power tuner.  My questions have to do with having both the 
> KAT2 and the 100W amp. Installed at the same time.  I tried investigating 
> this in the manuals but for some reason the link to the online KAT2 manual 
> isn’t working tonight.
> 
> Two questions.  First, is there a physical space problem if a K2 has the 100W 
> option, and the KNB2, and the APF/Clock option ,and the KAT2, or can the KAT2 
> stay on board even when the 100W amp is in place?  Second, does the system 
> switch automatically from the KAT2 to the outboard KAT100-1 when the amp is 
> in (or when the power exceeds the KAT2’s limit?)  What I mean to be asking is 
> whether having the KAT2 inside will complicate the process of removing the 
> amp to go “barefoot” with the base K2.  As it stands now it’s six screws 
> twice, five plugs, and no configuration changes.  Does having a KAT2 on board 
> add anything to that?
> 
> Thanks in advance . . .
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
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[Elecraft] Headset PTT Options

2016-04-15 Thread Mike Walkington


All,

At the risk of this request being lost in the euphoric response to the 
K3 K-Pod. I'm wondering what options you might be using / prefer to 
provide the PTT function for a K3S connected headset. I know options 
including (1) VOX, (2) PTT button on an alternative plugged in 
microphone, (3) PTT pickle switch, (4) PTT foot switch. What about your 
preference for enabling several (ie pickle and foot switch) of these in 
parallel


Mike VK1OO

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[Elecraft] K2/100 and KAT2

2016-04-15 Thread Dauer, Edward
A question for those who have the K2/100 ---

I finished building and am now becoming familiar with operating the K2/100 and 
the KAT100-1.  It’s a great combination; but for portable work it’s heavy and 
there are two boxes.  At the time I bought it I did not purchase the KAT2 – the 
internal low power tuner.  My questions have to do with having both the KAT2 
and the 100W amp. Installed at the same time.  I tried investigating this in 
the manuals but for some reason the link to the online KAT2 manual isn’t 
working tonight.

Two questions.  First, is there a physical space problem if a K2 has the 100W 
option, and the KNB2, and the APF/Clock option ,and the KAT2, or can the KAT2 
stay on board even when the 100W amp is in place?  Second, does the system 
switch automatically from the KAT2 to the outboard KAT100-1 when the amp is in 
(or when the power exceeds the KAT2’s limit?)  What I mean to be asking is 
whether having the KAT2 inside will complicate the process of removing the amp 
to go “barefoot” with the base K2.  As it stands now it’s six screws twice, 
five plugs, and no configuration changes.  Does having a KAT2 on board add 
anything to that?

Thanks in advance . . .

Ted, KN1CBR
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB Monitor

2016-04-15 Thread Steve & Anne Ray
While not exactly what you are looking for in monitoring your output signal,
this is the way I set up my audio on my K2.  This was published back in May
2009  in QST Hints and Kinks.

 

Many of the new rigs have the capability for one to listen to transmitted
audio, for setting up levels, compression etc.   The problem is that
listening to your audio, while speaking it is difficult to comprehend
differences in settings.   I simply use my PSK31 interface to record into
the sound recorder of my computer and then play it back.   This eliminates
the problem of speaking and listening at the same time.  When I do this I
actually state into the recording the various levels I have the compression
etc set at, then reset them at another value and make another recording.
Then play back the recordings.   This permits me to listen to the audio
files and know what is going out on the air, with different audio levels and
settings.  

 

The PSK31 interface is also useful when someone asks how their audio sounds.
Simply record it into the sound recorder and play it back for them using the
PSK31 interface.  I often do this and then Email them the file, that way
they are hearing exactly what I heard with out the effect of my rigs audio
on the recorded audio I play back. 

 

73,

Steve K4JPN

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 sound recording

2016-04-15 Thread ab2tc
Hi,

An audio splitters is just a plain T junction and can not be used in
reverse. That will probably just produce lots of distortion as the the low
impedance audio sources are fighting each other. What K7HP is suggesting,
however, using a pair of resistors to form a summing junction from the two
outputs should work but will of course involve a little bit of home brewing.

AB2TC - Knut


Nr4c wrote
> How about a "Splitter" used backwards?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
> 
> 
>> On Apr 15, 2016, at 1:26 PM, HankP <

> pfizenmayer@

> > wrote:
>> 
>> I do this too - BUT have not figured a way to record the SUB rx output at
>> same time unless I made some sort of external circuit xfmr or resistors
>> to feed LINE OUT tip and ring to a single input Maybe there is something
>> I am missing ? This would also allow decoding RTTY from either MAIN or
>> SUB rx . ??? Hank K7HP - Original Message -
> 





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Re: [Elecraft] Loading Old Configuration Into New K3S

2016-04-15 Thread Walter Underwood
The configuration includes all the calibration data that is specific to each 
radio. If you loaded another radio’s config, you would need to do all the 
calibration over again.

That seems like a very good reason to me.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Apr 15, 2016, at 4:59 PM, Nr4c  wrote:
> 
> NO. FOR GOOD REASON. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
> 
> 
>> On Apr 15, 2016, at 7:12 PM, Merle Bone  wrote:
>> 
>> I tried to load my current K3 configuration into my new K3S and got an
>> error message saying the serial number did not match. Is there
>> a reasonable way to load an older K3 configuration into a new
>> K3S?
>> Thanks,
>> Merle - W0EWM
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Re: [Elecraft] Loading Old Configuration Into New K3S

2016-04-15 Thread Nr4c
NO. FOR GOOD REASON. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Apr 15, 2016, at 7:12 PM, Merle Bone  wrote:
> 
> I tried to load my current K3 configuration into my new K3S and got an
> error message saying the serial number did not match. Is there
> a reasonable way to load an older K3 configuration into a new
> K3S?
> Thanks,
> Merle - W0EWM
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[Elecraft] Loading Old Configuration Into New K3S

2016-04-15 Thread Merle Bone
I tried to load my current K3 configuration into my new K3S and got an
error message saying the serial number did not match. Is there
a reasonable way to load an older K3 configuration into a new
K3S?
Thanks,
Merle - W0EWM
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[Elecraft] Software testing

2016-04-15 Thread Mike Reublin NF4L
I've written a settings saver for the K3. It should work on the K3S, but I 
don't have one to test it on. The program reads every Menu and Config setting 
that's readable, and stores it in a file. You can read a second radio and 
compare the settings side-by-side. The program puts the radio into Tech Mode, 
and switches between SSB and CW. The program DOES NOT load settings back into 
the radio, and I have no plans to have it do so.

I'm looking for some hardy testers. If interested contact me off list, using 
[K3Config] in the subject.

Please let me know your operating system(Windows XP thru Win10), your MCU 
version, and whether you have the sub receiver. I need both K3 and K3S users.

73, Mike NF4L


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 sound recording

2016-04-15 Thread Nr4c
How about a "Splitter" used backwards?

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Apr 15, 2016, at 1:26 PM, HankP  wrote:
> 
> I do this too - BUT have not figured a way to record the SUB rx output at 
> same time unless I made some sort of external circuit xfmr or resistors to 
> feed LINE OUT tip and ring to a single input Maybe there is something I am 
> missing ? This would also allow decoding RTTY from either MAIN or SUB rx . 
> ??? Hank K7HP - Original Message -
>> I routinely do this... Works great for me... I use a different
>> program called i-sound. It has a small footprint and works well...
>> --
>> 73's, and thanks,
>> Dave (NK7Z)
>>> Here's the question: For my K3, if I connect a line between the K3
>>> LINE OUT and the PC's LINE IN, will I be able to record
>>> (using software such as Audacity) all audio present in my K3
>>> speaker > or headphones? I want to record CW and
>>> SSB contest QSOs, to illustrate my contesting techniques.
>>> 
>>> Thanks, Mike Goldstein VE3GFN
>>> __
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Two radios on the KPA500?

2016-04-15 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
If you try to use the "enhanced" cabling setup in the Owner's manual that
uses the accessory cable, the K3 will control which band the KPA500 is on. 

I'd use the basic cabling setup shown on page 11, switching both the RF and
key line cables. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Harry
Yingst via Elecraft
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2016 10:57 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Two radios on the KPA500?

What would be an easy way to run two radios (a K3 and a generic radio) with
the KPA500 Putting an manual switch on the input to the KPA 500 is easy
enough, but what aboutthe accessory cable that runs to the K3 and the Key
line from the generic radio?
Thank you

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 sound recording

2016-04-15 Thread Richard Ferch
Unless I am missing something in your description, the only hardware you
need is a single stereo patch cable (one with 3.5 mm stereo plugs on both
ends) from the stereo Line Out jack on the K3 to the stereo Line In jack on
a standard 2-channel sound card. If your sound card has only a mono input,
use a different sound card (one with stereo inputs). In the Windows setup
for the sound card, make sure it is configured for two channels.

The main RX audio will be recorded in the left channel and the subRX audio
will be recorded in the right channel of the stereo recording.
Transmit monitor audio will appear in both channels. On playback through
headphones, you will hear the main RX in your left ear and the subRX in
your right ear.

For dual-RX RTTY with the identical hardware, run two separate copies of
your RTTY program(s), one copy configured to use the left channel of the
sound card (for the main RX) and the other copy configured to use the right
channel of the same sound card (for the subRX).

73,
Rich VE3KI


K7HP wrote:

I [...] have not figured a way to record the SUB rx output at same time
unless I made some sort of external circuit xfmr or resistors to feed LINE
OUT tip and ring to a single input Maybe there is something I am missing ?
This would also allow decoding RTTY from either MAIN or SUB rx . ???
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 sound recording

2016-04-15 Thread Cady, Fred
Have a look at the sound card's Microphone properties and then click Advanced.  
You will probably  be able to select a two channel input if a one channel input 
is currently selected.
Cheers,
Fred KE7X

For all KE7X Elecraft books, see www.ke7x.com


From: Elecraft  on behalf of HankP 

Sent: Friday, April 15, 2016 11:26 AM
To: d...@nk7z.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 sound recording

I do this too - BUT have not figured a way to record the SUB rx output at same 
time unless I made some sort of external circuit xfmr or resistors to feed LINE 
OUT tip and ring to a single input Maybe there is something I am missing ? This 
would also allow decoding RTTY from either MAIN or SUB rx . ??? Hank K7HP - 
Original Message -
> I routinely do this... Works great for me... I use a different
> program called i-sound. It has a small footprint and works well...
> --
> 73's, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> > Here's the question: For my K3, if I connect a line between the K3
> > LINE OUT and the PC's LINE IN, will I be able to record
> > (using software such as Audacity) all audio present in my K3
> > speaker > or headphones? I want to record CW and
> > SSB contest QSOs, to illustrate my contesting techniques.
> >
> > Thanks, Mike Goldstein VE3GFN
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 total loss

2016-04-15 Thread Doug Person via Elecraft
Ditto that. Don is the consummate professional and has solved some of 
the most mystifying problems for me.  All while being very reasonable.


And Ditto on the Hakko desoldering  tools.  Either the 808 or the new 
FR-300 are practically worth their weight in gold.


I still use my K2 and it is still a marvelous radio.  I built 3 of 
them.  Just because they were a joy to build.  Nothing like the K2 
anywhere anymore.


Doug -- K0DXV

On 4/14/16 8:57 PM, Johnny Siu via Elecraft wrote:

You need also a proper desoldering tool.  If still no luck, pass it to Don 
W3FPR as suggested by Wayne.  Don guided me for a number of K2 repairs in the 
past.
73
Johnny VR2XMC

   寄件人︰ lstavenhagen 
  收件人︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  傳送日期︰ 2016年04月15日 (週五) 4:25 AM
  主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] K2 total loss

Hi Wayne,

Ah, ok, well... let me take another look, then. This is in the bandpass
filter so didn't know how critical this was...

Tnx es 73,
LS
W5QD



   
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[Elecraft] Two radios on the KPA500?

2016-04-15 Thread Harry Yingst via Elecraft
What would be an easy way to run two radios (a K3 and a generic radio) with the 
KPA500
Putting an manual switch on the input to the KPA 500 is easy enough, but what 
aboutthe accessory cable that runs to the K3 and the Key line from the generic 
radio?
Thank you

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Re: [Elecraft] k2 continuing on (nothing to lose)

2016-04-15 Thread Harry Yingst via Elecraft
I have used clear nail polish over the lifted traces oncethey have been 
re-soldered to hold and protect them.
I'm glad to hear you tackled it again with a clearer head.






  From: lstavenhagen 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, April 15, 2016 9:57 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] k2 continuing on (nothing to lose)
   
Hi all,
Tnx for all the encouragement and suggestions by PM and on the list on my K2
tragedy. After thinking it over after something to eat I decided I didn't
have anything to lose by simply continuing on. 

My thinking was, ok, this is a learning experience, right? So I figured, ok,
let's learn how to remove a component without tearing everything up LOL. If
I could get the second ruined relay out without doing more damage to the
board, I was ok.

I did manage to get the pads back down on the first relay socket and I
didn't see that the traces were actually broken. So I carefully threaded the
new relay in and soldered it in like normal. Fingers crossed that all the
connections are good.

As for other relay that I ruined, I robbed a relay out of my KAT2 kit and
got out my desoldering iron from Radio Shack. Not the best desoldering tool
in the world and it has failed me in the past, but marginally better than
desoldering braid and nothing else and went to work. After sucking out as
much solder as I could on the pins, I flush cut them as far down as I could
go and went over the pads again with the iron and braid. Fortunately, this
relay came out easily after cutting it in half on the topside with the wire
cutters. No damage to the board. 

At that point, I was cooking with gas and decided to install L33 and the
remaining diodes. That put me at the alignment part II stage. By about 10pm
last night I'd complete the receiver alignment and all those circuits
checked out virtually perfect. So the RX is intact and receiving on 40M. I
hear relays click when I go through the bands - the 20m bandpass filter is
where I did all the damage and replaced the relays, so maybe they're hooked
up and working right. 

Anyway, at this point, since the RX is fine and working normally as far as I
can tell, I think I should just go ahead with the rest of the build and see
what happens on 20M when it's done. 

Like Wayne suggested, if there does end up a problem on 20M at the end, I
can probably just run wires on the bottom of the board to hook it all up.
It'll do me good to go back to the schematic anyway lol.

So onwards with the build and hope the rescue effort succeeds hi hi.

Tnx es 73,
LS
W5QD



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 sound recording

2016-04-15 Thread HankP
I do this too - BUT have not figured a way to record the SUB rx output at same 
time unless I made some sort of external circuit xfmr or resistors to feed LINE 
OUT tip and ring to a single input Maybe there is something I am missing ? This 
would also allow decoding RTTY from either MAIN or SUB rx . ??? Hank K7HP - 
Original Message -
> I routinely do this... Works great for me... I use a different
> program called i-sound. It has a small footprint and works well...
> --
> 73's, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> > Here's the question: For my K3, if I connect a line between the K3
> > LINE OUT and the PC's LINE IN, will I be able to record
> > (using software such as Audacity) all audio present in my K3
> > speaker > or headphones? I want to record CW and
> > SSB contest QSOs, to illustrate my contesting techniques.
> >
> > Thanks, Mike Goldstein VE3GFN
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] k2 continuing on (nothing to lose)

2016-04-15 Thread Jim Finan
I concur with the recommendation for a Hakko Desoldering tool. The Hakko 808 
has been discontinued but I bought the Hakko FR-300 (the new and 'improved' 
version).  I use Weller solder stations but the Hakko FR-300 saved my bacon. 

I had just soldered a DIP IC in backwards (completely pilot error) and 
following suggestions from the list I bought the new version to try to save the 
DIP IC. All I did was add a bit of solder where the solder braid had partially 
removed it and desoldered each pin in order - the DIP IC lifted out. 

I didn't have to sacrifice the IC or the board.

As I recall the FR-300 was about $260 from Amazon. 

This list has helped me on more than one occasion and I'd like to thank those 
who participate.

Jim Finan
AB4AC 

Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone.
  Original Message  
From: Richard W. Solomon
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2016 12:34 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k2 continuing on (nothing to lose)

The two best tools I have found are the HAKKO FX-888D Soldering Station and
the 
HAKKO 808 De-Soldering tool. Not exactly in the RS price range, but if you
do 
a lot of thru-hole board work, well worth the money.

I don't do much SMD work although I have a Hot Air system and can solder
quite 
well with the HAKKO.

Replacing hole through relays is a snap with the HAKKO 808. The parts just
fall 
off the board.

73, Dick, W1KSZ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron
D'Eau Claire
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2016 8:33 AM
To: 'lstavenhagen'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k2 continuing on (nothing to lose)

Great news LS. 

If that RS desoldering tool is like the one I have somewhere in the bottom
of my junk box, it is not temperature-controlled and does a wonderful job of
delaminating traces from pc boards. It simply gets too hot. That's why mine
is where it is...

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
lstavenhagen
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2016 6:57 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] k2 continuing on (nothing to lose)

Hi all,
Tnx for all the encouragement and suggestions by PM and on the list on my K2
tragedy. After thinking it over after something to eat I decided I didn't
have anything to lose by simply continuing on. 

My thinking was, ok, this is a learning experience, right? So I figured, ok,
let's learn how to remove a component without tearing everything up LOL. If
I could get the second ruined relay out without doing more damage to the
board, I was ok.

I did manage to get the pads back down on the first relay socket and I
didn't see that the traces were actually broken. So I carefully threaded the
new relay in and soldered it in like normal. Fingers crossed that all the
connections are good.

As for other relay that I ruined, I robbed a relay out of my KAT2 kit and
got out my desoldering iron from Radio Shack. Not the best desoldering tool
in the world and it has failed me in the past, but marginally better than
desoldering braid and nothing else and went to work. After sucking out as
much solder as I could on the pins, I flush cut them as far down as I could
go and went over the pads again with the iron and braid. Fortunately, this
relay came out easily after cutting it in half on the topside with the wire
cutters. No damage to the board. 

At that point, I was cooking with gas and decided to install L33 and the
remaining diodes. That put me at the alignment part II stage. By about 10pm
last night I'd complete the receiver alignment and all those circuits
checked out virtually perfect. So the RX is intact and receiving on 40M. I
hear relays click when I go through the bands - the 20m bandpass filter is
where I did all the damage and replaced the relays, so maybe they're hooked
up and working right. 

Anyway, at this point, since the RX is fine and working normally as far as I
can tell, I think I should just go ahead with the rest of the build and see
what happens on 20M when it's done. 

Like Wayne suggested, if there does end up a problem on 20M at the end, I
can probably just run wires on the bottom of the board to hook it all up.
It'll do me good to go back to the schematic anyway lol.

So onwards with the build and hope the rescue effort succeeds hi hi.

Tnx es 73,
LS
W5QD



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392.html
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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product: K-Pod Control Panel for K3S and K3 Transceivers

2016-04-15 Thread Wayne Burdick
The modification will involve *only* pin 6 of the RJ jack. Everything else must 
remain the same since we use that port for firmware emulation. 

No SMDs need be removed or added in this mod. Just one added 1/8th-watt 
resistor.

Wayne
N6KR

On Apr 15, 2016, at 9:27 AM, Warren Merkel  wrote:

> Looks right Joe,
> 
> Not knowing if the K-Pod is a 3.3v versus a 5V device, it is hard to
> predict.  If 3.3v, the 120R on pin 2 could be removed and keep the
> protection of the BAT54 zener, leaving barely enough voltage for a 3.3V
> dropout regulator in the Pod.  If 5V, shorting the 10K on pin 6 would
> likely be the route.   Since the K-Pod also provides a USB port, my bet
> is will be a pin 6 modification as it will require 5V to be "normal".
> 
> What ever the mod, it stands to reason that the guys would try to keep
> the port operational in it's original purpose as well.
> 
> Pin 4 (PGD) and Pin 5( PGC) will obviously be for data in the
> undisclosed format :)
> 
> Whatever the mod will be, it will involve tiny smd chips...
> 
> Diagram snip here:
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24789865/K3_ICD-2_page22_Front_panel_MCU.JPG
> 
> It looks like a bust to migrate the K-Pod to the KX3, as all of the pins
> definitions on the internal "ACC" connector are switched all around, not
> to mention it's a 3.3V setup and the connector isn't brought outside. 
> Would be a more serious modification indeed.
> 
> Warren, KD4Z
> 
> 
>> Message: 32
>> Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2016 09:58:38 -0400
>> From: "Joe Subich, W4TV" 
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product: K-Pod Control Panel for
>>  K3S and K3 Transceivers
>> 
>> On 4/15/2016 9:31 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
 How involved is the radio modification? I can see this as a
 convenient way to use RIT and activate the CW/SSB keyer memories.
>> From looking at the K3 schematic it looks like not much more than
>> removing a resistor and adding a jumper or perhaps changing a diode.
>> There are two +5V lines on the RJ-12 jack but one has a 10K current
>> limiting resistor and the other a diode/120 Ohm resistor.
> 
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[Elecraft] OT: "Octopus's Garden"

2016-04-15 Thread Edward R Cole
Try interconnecting K3 and KX3 to support 17 ham bands from 600 
meters to 10-GHz!

http://www.kl7uw.com/station%20layout.htm

Note the station block diagram (scroll down a page).  Then scroll 
down to the photos (circa 2010).  This is an "octopus's 
garden"!  Wall plate for cable ingress has 10 N-connectors and 11 UHF 
connectors and about as many control lines exiting the 
station.  There are more than 17 antenna.  Only half the stuff was 
installed in 2010.


Feel free to roam the website which will show you more of "my stuff".

Most of you aren't even close to an "octopus" ;-)

73, Ed - KL7UW
PS:  Plans now to build onto the 24x28 foot garage a 26x18 foot ham 
shack (all wiring will have to be re-run- ugh).


On 4/14/16 8:22 PM, Barry Jablonski wrote:
> In the software world it's called spaghetti code -- _in the hardware
> world it's an octopus's garden. _


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] k2 continuing on (nothing to lose)

2016-04-15 Thread Richard W. Solomon
The two best tools I have found are the HAKKO FX-888D Soldering Station and
the 
HAKKO 808 De-Soldering tool. Not exactly in the RS price range, but if you
do 
a lot of thru-hole board work, well worth the money.

I don't do much SMD work although I have a Hot Air system and can solder
quite 
well with the HAKKO.

Replacing hole through relays is a snap with the HAKKO 808. The parts just
fall 
off the board.

73, Dick, W1KSZ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron
D'Eau Claire
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2016 8:33 AM
To: 'lstavenhagen'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k2 continuing on (nothing to lose)

Great news LS. 

If that RS desoldering tool is like the one I have somewhere in the bottom
of my junk box, it is not temperature-controlled and does a wonderful job of
delaminating traces from pc boards. It simply gets too hot. That's why mine
is where it is...

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
lstavenhagen
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2016 6:57 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] k2 continuing on (nothing to lose)

Hi all,
Tnx for all the encouragement and suggestions by PM and on the list on my K2
tragedy. After thinking it over after something to eat I decided I didn't
have anything to lose by simply continuing on. 

My thinking was, ok, this is a learning experience, right? So I figured, ok,
let's learn how to remove a component without tearing everything up LOL. If
I could get the second ruined relay out without doing more damage to the
board, I was ok.

I did manage to get the pads back down on the first relay socket and I
didn't see that the traces were actually broken. So I carefully threaded the
new relay in and soldered it in like normal. Fingers crossed that all the
connections are good.

As for other relay that I ruined, I robbed a relay out of my KAT2 kit and
got out my desoldering iron from Radio Shack. Not the best desoldering tool
in the world and it has failed me in the past, but marginally better than
desoldering braid and nothing else and went to work. After sucking out as
much solder as I could on the pins, I flush cut them as far down as I could
go and went over the pads again with the iron and braid. Fortunately, this
relay came out easily after cutting it in half on the topside with the wire
cutters. No damage to the board. 

At that point, I was cooking with gas and decided to install L33 and the
remaining diodes. That put me at the alignment part II stage. By about 10pm
last night I'd complete the receiver alignment and all those circuits
checked out virtually perfect. So the RX is intact and receiving on 40M. I
hear relays click when I go through the bands - the 20m bandpass filter is
where I did all the damage and replaced the relays, so maybe they're hooked
up and working right. 

Anyway, at this point, since the RX is fine and working normally as far as I
can tell, I think I should just go ahead with the rest of the build and see
what happens on 20M when it's done. 

Like Wayne suggested, if there does end up a problem on 20M at the end, I
can probably just run wires on the bottom of the board to hook it all up.
It'll do me good to go back to the schematic anyway lol.

So onwards with the build and hope the rescue effort succeeds hi hi.

Tnx es 73,
LS
W5QD



--
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392.html
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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product: K-Pod Control Panel for K3S and K3 Transceivers

2016-04-15 Thread Warren Merkel
Looks right Joe,

Not knowing if the K-Pod is a 3.3v versus a 5V device, it is hard to
predict.  If 3.3v, the 120R on pin 2 could be removed and keep the
protection of the BAT54 zener, leaving barely enough voltage for a 3.3V
dropout regulator in the Pod.  If 5V, shorting the 10K on pin 6 would
likely be the route.   Since the K-Pod also provides a USB port, my bet
is will be a pin 6 modification as it will require 5V to be "normal".

What ever the mod, it stands to reason that the guys would try to keep
the port operational in it's original purpose as well.

Pin 4 (PGD) and Pin 5( PGC) will obviously be for data in the
undisclosed format :)

Whatever the mod will be, it will involve tiny smd chips...

Diagram snip here:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24789865/K3_ICD-2_page22_Front_panel_MCU.JPG

It looks like a bust to migrate the K-Pod to the KX3, as all of the pins
definitions on the internal "ACC" connector are switched all around, not
to mention it's a 3.3V setup and the connector isn't brought outside. 
Would be a more serious modification indeed.

Warren, KD4Z


> Message: 32
> Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2016 09:58:38 -0400
> From: "Joe Subich, W4TV" 
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product: K-Pod Control Panel for
>   K3S and K3 Transceivers
>
> On 4/15/2016 9:31 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
>> > How involved is the radio modification? I can see this as a
>> > convenient way to use RIT and activate the CW/SSB keyer memories.
> From looking at the K3 schematic it looks like not much more than
> removing a resistor and adding a jumper or perhaps changing a diode.
> There are two +5V lines on the RJ-12 jack but one has a 10K current
> limiting resistor and the other a diode/120 Ohm resistor.

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[Elecraft] K3 accessories for sale

2016-04-15 Thread dlrwild1
I sold my K3/100, but I have several items for sale that I used with the radio.

(1) Dust cover by Rose with Elecraft logo $25 with S/H

(2) Yamaha CM500 headset for K3/K3S/KX-3  $45 with S/H

(3) K3 DC power cable (KPCA-F) brand new still in bag/never used  $15 with S/H

(4) Array Solutions THP HL-1.5KFX amp to K3/100 for band data and ALC  $45 with 
S/H

All items sold as a complete package ASKING: 110.00 with S/H
Can also sell individual items. Contact Bob, K3SRO at dlrwi...@verizon.net
All items new or like new condition.
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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product: K-Pod Control Panel for K3S and K3 Transceivers

2016-04-15 Thread Wayne Burdick
You need to solder one end of an 1/8th-watt resistor to an SMD, and the other 
end to a via nearby.

Or you could send it to us to do the work. Or you could power the pod from the 
radio's 12-V output, or a separate 12-V supply. Powering it from the radio one 
way or the other is a good idea since the pod itself doesn't have an on-off 
switch. (It does have an ON indicator LED.)

Wayne
N6KR


On Apr 15, 2016, at 9:08 AM, Hisashi T Fujinaka  wrote:

> "Simple" you say. Is this another one of those SMD nightmares? :)
> 
> On Fri, 15 Apr 2016, Wayne Burdick wrote:
> 
>> The mod is very simple, involving soldering one resistor onto the front 
>> panel board.
>> 
>> Wayne
>> N6KR
>> 
>> 
>> On Apr 15, 2016, at 6:31 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
>> 
>>> I think that most contest station use a considerable amount of cables in
>>> back of the rig. I have a Y on my ACC for a MicroHAM device and a Band
>>> Decoder and am considering adding another Y for amp control. It think that
>>> it is great if the K-Pod can be run off of a single cable connected
>>> underneath the K3S. How involved is the radio modification? I can see this
>>> as a convenient way to use RIT and activate the CW/SSB keyer memories.
>>> 
>>> John KK9A
>>> 
>>> Wayne Burdick n6kr at elecraft.com
>>> Thu Apr 14 20:38:13 EDT 2016
>>> message: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product: K-Pod
>>> 
>>> Done. For most applications, a single USB cable to the radio (K3S, or a K3
>>> with a KIO3B module) is all that's required for combined computer data and
>>> audio.
>>> 
>>> We provide lots of other DC, audio, and digital I/O too, just in case you
>>> need it. For example, we provide a second headphone jack, second mic jack,
>>> and stereo speaker outputs on the back. Just in case.
>>> 
>>> No way to get rid of the DC input jack, antenna jack, and ground screw, of
>>> course.
>>> 
>>> I suppose the keyer paddle could go to Bluetooth?
> 
> -- 
> Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com
> BSEE + BSChem + BAEnglish + MSCS + $2.50 = coffee

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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product: K-Pod Control Panel for K3S and K3 Transceivers

2016-04-15 Thread Hisashi T Fujinaka

"Simple" you say. Is this another one of those SMD nightmares? :)

On Fri, 15 Apr 2016, Wayne Burdick wrote:


The mod is very simple, involving soldering one resistor onto the front panel 
board.

Wayne
N6KR


On Apr 15, 2016, at 6:31 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:


I think that most contest station use a considerable amount of cables in
back of the rig. I have a Y on my ACC for a MicroHAM device and a Band
Decoder and am considering adding another Y for amp control. It think that
it is great if the K-Pod can be run off of a single cable connected
underneath the K3S. How involved is the radio modification? I can see this
as a convenient way to use RIT and activate the CW/SSB keyer memories.

John KK9A

Wayne Burdick n6kr at elecraft.com
Thu Apr 14 20:38:13 EDT 2016
message: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product: K-Pod

Done. For most applications, a single USB cable to the radio (K3S, or a K3
with a KIO3B module) is all that's required for combined computer data and
audio.

We provide lots of other DC, audio, and digital I/O too, just in case you
need it. For example, we provide a second headphone jack, second mic jack,
and stereo speaker outputs on the back. Just in case.

No way to get rid of the DC input jack, antenna jack, and ground screw, of
course.

I suppose the keyer paddle could go to Bluetooth?


--
Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com
BSEE + BSChem + BAEnglish + MSCS + $2.50 = coffee
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Re: [Elecraft] New from Elecraft: High-Performance 200-Hz, 6-pole Crystal Filter

2016-04-15 Thread Wayne Burdick
Typical loss of the 5- and 6-pole 200-Hz filters is about the same. I believe 
we do have enough DSP-based gain compensation for all filter types, but I'll 
ask our techs to verify this. 

The noise figure of the radio is established ahead of the crystal filters, so 
moderate loss in the filters is not significant from a performance standpoint. 
In fact the sensitivity and dynamic range of the radio are typically maximized 
when this filter is used.

Wayne
N6KR


On Apr 15, 2016, at 4:40 AM, brian  wrote:

> The plots have a disclaimer that one can't compare the passband attenuation 
> for the filters.
> 
> Some of us have noticed that with the old 200 Hz 5 pole filters the amount of 
> gain available to compensate for it was not enough.  I observed that here by 
> comparing SPECTROGRAM peak outputs per filter.
> 
> Presumably the 6 pole 200 Hz filter will have a bit more attenuation.
> 
> How does the passband loss of the new/old 200 Hz filters compare?
> 
> 73 de Brian/K3KO
> On 4/15/2016 2:17 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
>> Some of you may recall that we discontinued our 5-pole, 200-Hz filter last 
>> year. Our replacement for this filter has cleared all of our stringent test 
>> hurdles and is now available on our order page.
>> 
>> The new filter (KFL3C-200) has six poles rather than five, significantly 
>> improving skirt selectivity. And at the center, the passband is 200 Hz at 6 
>> dB down -- ideal for CW and narrowband data operation in high-QRM or QRN 
>> situations. (Our 5-pole filter was already a favorite of 160 meter CW 
>> contest veterans. The KFL3C-200 takes it up another notch. Maybe two.)
>> 
>> Plots for all of our filters, including an overlay comparing the KFL3A-250 
>> (INRAD 8-pole) to the new KFL3C-200, can be found at:
>> 
>>   http://www.elecraft.com/K3/K3_filter_plots.htm
>> 
>> Next week, when we're all recuperating from the Visalia DX convention, we'll 
>> provide a link to a plot showing the 5-pole vs. 6-pole filter passband. The 
>> improvement in skirt selectivity is quite pronounced.
>> 
>> This filter can be installed in a K3, K3S, or the sub receiver. To order, 
>> see:
>> 
>>   http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_prod_list.htm#k3filters
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> Wayne, N6KR
>> Eric, WA6HHQ
>> 
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product: K-Pod Control Panel for K3S and K3 Transceivers

2016-04-15 Thread Wayne Burdick
The mod is very simple, involving soldering one resistor onto the front panel 
board.

Wayne
N6KR


On Apr 15, 2016, at 6:31 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

> I think that most contest station use a considerable amount of cables in
> back of the rig. I have a Y on my ACC for a MicroHAM device and a Band
> Decoder and am considering adding another Y for amp control. It think that
> it is great if the K-Pod can be run off of a single cable connected
> underneath the K3S. How involved is the radio modification? I can see this
> as a convenient way to use RIT and activate the CW/SSB keyer memories.
> 
> John KK9A
> 
> Wayne Burdick n6kr at elecraft.com
> Thu Apr 14 20:38:13 EDT 2016
> message: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product: K-Pod
> 
> Done. For most applications, a single USB cable to the radio (K3S, or a K3
> with a KIO3B module) is all that's required for combined computer data and
> audio.
> 
> We provide lots of other DC, audio, and digital I/O too, just in case you
> need it. For example, we provide a second headphone jack, second mic jack,
> and stereo speaker outputs on the back. Just in case.
> 
> No way to get rid of the DC input jack, antenna jack, and ground screw, of
> course.
> 
> I suppose the keyer paddle could go to Bluetooth?
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] k2 continuing on (nothing to lose)

2016-04-15 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Great news LS. 

If that RS desoldering tool is like the one I have somewhere in the bottom
of my junk box, it is not temperature-controlled and does a wonderful job of
delaminating traces from pc boards. It simply gets too hot. That's why mine
is where it is...

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
lstavenhagen
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2016 6:57 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] k2 continuing on (nothing to lose)

Hi all,
Tnx for all the encouragement and suggestions by PM and on the list on my K2
tragedy. After thinking it over after something to eat I decided I didn't
have anything to lose by simply continuing on. 

My thinking was, ok, this is a learning experience, right? So I figured, ok,
let's learn how to remove a component without tearing everything up LOL. If
I could get the second ruined relay out without doing more damage to the
board, I was ok.

I did manage to get the pads back down on the first relay socket and I
didn't see that the traces were actually broken. So I carefully threaded the
new relay in and soldered it in like normal. Fingers crossed that all the
connections are good.

As for other relay that I ruined, I robbed a relay out of my KAT2 kit and
got out my desoldering iron from Radio Shack. Not the best desoldering tool
in the world and it has failed me in the past, but marginally better than
desoldering braid and nothing else and went to work. After sucking out as
much solder as I could on the pins, I flush cut them as far down as I could
go and went over the pads again with the iron and braid. Fortunately, this
relay came out easily after cutting it in half on the topside with the wire
cutters. No damage to the board. 

At that point, I was cooking with gas and decided to install L33 and the
remaining diodes. That put me at the alignment part II stage. By about 10pm
last night I'd complete the receiver alignment and all those circuits
checked out virtually perfect. So the RX is intact and receiving on 40M. I
hear relays click when I go through the bands - the 20m bandpass filter is
where I did all the damage and replaced the relays, so maybe they're hooked
up and working right. 

Anyway, at this point, since the RX is fine and working normally as far as I
can tell, I think I should just go ahead with the rest of the build and see
what happens on 20M when it's done. 

Like Wayne suggested, if there does end up a problem on 20M at the end, I
can probably just run wires on the bottom of the board to hook it all up.
It'll do me good to go back to the schematic anyway lol.

So onwards with the build and hope the rescue effort succeeds hi hi.

Tnx es 73,
LS
W5QD



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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product: K-Pod Control Panel for K3S and K3 Transceivers

2016-04-15 Thread Alan Bloom
I think they are using pin 6, the one with the 10K resistor, to get +5V 
to the pod.  So it probably will involve bridging the 10K resistor with 
a smaller value.


Alan N1AL


On 04/15/2016 06:58 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

On 4/15/2016 9:31 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

How involved is the radio modification? I can see this as a
convenient way to use RIT and activate the CW/SSB keyer memories.


 From looking at the K3 schematic it looks like not much more than
removing a resistor and adding a jumper or perhaps changing a diode.
There are two +5V lines on the RJ-12 jack but one has a 10K current
limiting resistor and the other a diode/120 Ohm resistor.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 4/15/2016 9:31 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

I think that most contest station use a considerable amount of cables in
back of the rig. I have a Y on my ACC for a MicroHAM device and a Band
Decoder and am considering adding another Y for amp control. It think
that
it is great if the K-Pod can be run off of a single cable connected
underneath the K3S. How involved is the radio modification? I can see
this
as a convenient way to use RIT and activate the CW/SSB keyer memories.

John KK9A


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Re: [Elecraft] New from Elecraft: High-Performance 200-Hz, 6-pole Crystal Filter

2016-04-15 Thread Wayne Burdick
The 6-pole filters have an offset (like the 5-pole). The offset is clearly 
marked on the filter and can be entered into the filter configuration page 
using K3 Utility. This has no effect on performance.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Apr 15, 2016, at 4:52 AM, Lou Voerman W2ROW  wrote:

> 
> I have one quick question about the 6 pole filter. Will it have an offset
> like the 5 pole filters or will the offset be zero like the 8 pole filters?
> 
> Thanks,
> Lou  W2ROW



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Re: [Elecraft] k2 continuing on (nothing to lose)

2016-04-15 Thread Phil Wheeler

Good to hear you are back in stride, LS!

73, Phil W7OX

On 4/15/16 6:57 AM, lstavenhagen wrote:

Hi all,
Tnx for all the encouragement and suggestions by PM and on the list on my K2
tragedy. After thinking it over after something to eat I decided I didn't
have anything to lose by simply continuing on.

My thinking was, ok, this is a learning experience, right? So I figured, ok,
let's learn how to remove a component without tearing everything up LOL. If
I could get the second ruined relay out without doing more damage to the
board, I was ok.

I did manage to get the pads back down on the first relay socket and I
didn't see that the traces were actually broken. So I carefully threaded the
new relay in and soldered it in like normal. Fingers crossed that all the
connections are good.

As for other relay that I ruined, I robbed a relay out of my KAT2 kit and
got out my desoldering iron from Radio Shack. Not the best desoldering tool
in the world and it has failed me in the past, but marginally better than
desoldering braid and nothing else and went to work. After sucking out as
much solder as I could on the pins, I flush cut them as far down as I could
go and went over the pads again with the iron and braid. Fortunately, this
relay came out easily after cutting it in half on the topside with the wire
cutters. No damage to the board.

At that point, I was cooking with gas and decided to install L33 and the
remaining diodes. That put me at the alignment part II stage. By about 10pm
last night I'd complete the receiver alignment and all those circuits
checked out virtually perfect. So the RX is intact and receiving on 40M. I
hear relays click when I go through the bands - the 20m bandpass filter is
where I did all the damage and replaced the relays, so maybe they're hooked
up and working right.

Anyway, at this point, since the RX is fine and working normally as far as I
can tell, I think I should just go ahead with the rest of the build and see
what happens on 20M when it's done.

Like Wayne suggested, if there does end up a problem on 20M at the end, I
can probably just run wires on the bottom of the board to hook it all up.
It'll do me good to go back to the schematic anyway lol.

So onwards with the build and hope the rescue effort succeeds hi hi.

Tnx es 73,
LS
W5QD


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[Elecraft] K2 SSB MONITOR

2016-04-15 Thread N2PD
I know I'll be told to just buy a K3 or KX3, but I love the K2 and am always
looking for ways to improve it.  In the menu using SSBA and BAL it's
possible to monitor SSB in your headphones.  What I'm wondering is if there
would be a way to make that feature active when actually transmitting so
your voice could be heard in the phones.  Maybe Wayne might have some input
on this.



-
Paul, N2PD
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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product: K-Pod Control Panel for K3S and K3 Transceivers

2016-04-15 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

On 4/15/2016 9:31 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

How involved is the radio modification? I can see this as a
convenient way to use RIT and activate the CW/SSB keyer memories.


From looking at the K3 schematic it looks like not much more than
removing a resistor and adding a jumper or perhaps changing a diode.
There are two +5V lines on the RJ-12 jack but one has a 10K current
limiting resistor and the other a diode/120 Ohm resistor.

73,

  ... Joe, W4TV


On 4/15/2016 9:31 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

I think that most contest station use a considerable amount of cables in
back of the rig. I have a Y on my ACC for a MicroHAM device and a Band
Decoder and am considering adding another Y for amp control. It think that
it is great if the K-Pod can be run off of a single cable connected
underneath the K3S. How involved is the radio modification? I can see this
as a convenient way to use RIT and activate the CW/SSB keyer memories.

John KK9A


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[Elecraft] k2 continuing on (nothing to lose)

2016-04-15 Thread lstavenhagen
Hi all,
Tnx for all the encouragement and suggestions by PM and on the list on my K2
tragedy. After thinking it over after something to eat I decided I didn't
have anything to lose by simply continuing on. 

My thinking was, ok, this is a learning experience, right? So I figured, ok,
let's learn how to remove a component without tearing everything up LOL. If
I could get the second ruined relay out without doing more damage to the
board, I was ok.

I did manage to get the pads back down on the first relay socket and I
didn't see that the traces were actually broken. So I carefully threaded the
new relay in and soldered it in like normal. Fingers crossed that all the
connections are good.

As for other relay that I ruined, I robbed a relay out of my KAT2 kit and
got out my desoldering iron from Radio Shack. Not the best desoldering tool
in the world and it has failed me in the past, but marginally better than
desoldering braid and nothing else and went to work. After sucking out as
much solder as I could on the pins, I flush cut them as far down as I could
go and went over the pads again with the iron and braid. Fortunately, this
relay came out easily after cutting it in half on the topside with the wire
cutters. No damage to the board. 

At that point, I was cooking with gas and decided to install L33 and the
remaining diodes. That put me at the alignment part II stage. By about 10pm
last night I'd complete the receiver alignment and all those circuits
checked out virtually perfect. So the RX is intact and receiving on 40M. I
hear relays click when I go through the bands - the 20m bandpass filter is
where I did all the damage and replaced the relays, so maybe they're hooked
up and working right. 

Anyway, at this point, since the RX is fine and working normally as far as I
can tell, I think I should just go ahead with the rest of the build and see
what happens on 20M when it's done. 

Like Wayne suggested, if there does end up a problem on 20M at the end, I
can probably just run wires on the bottom of the board to hook it all up.
It'll do me good to go back to the schematic anyway lol.

So onwards with the build and hope the rescue effort succeeds hi hi.

Tnx es 73,
LS
W5QD



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 sound recording

2016-04-15 Thread Dave Cole
I routinely do this...  Works great for me...  I use a different
program called i-sound.  It has a small footprint and works well...  
-- 
73's, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)

For software/hardware reviews see:
http://www.nk7z.net

For MixW support see:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info

For SSTV help see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Thu, 2016-04-14 at 22:11 -0400, Mike Goldstein wrote:
> I've been asked to do a workshop on contesting techniques next 
> autumn, so I'm working on an audio/visual presentation.
> 
> Here's the question: For my K3, if I connect a line between the K3 
> LINE OUT and the PC's LINE IN, will I be able to record 
> (using  software such as Audacity) all audio present in my K3
> speaker 
> or headphones?  I want to record CW and
> SSB contest QSOs, to illustrate my contesting techniques.
> 
> Thanks, Mike Goldstein VE3GFN
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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product: K-Pod Control Panel for K3S and K3 Transceivers

2016-04-15 Thread j...@kk9a.com
I think that most contest station use a considerable amount of cables in
back of the rig. I have a Y on my ACC for a MicroHAM device and a Band
Decoder and am considering adding another Y for amp control. It think that
it is great if the K-Pod can be run off of a single cable connected
underneath the K3S. How involved is the radio modification? I can see this
as a convenient way to use RIT and activate the CW/SSB keyer memories.

John KK9A

Wayne Burdick n6kr at elecraft.com
Thu Apr 14 20:38:13 EDT 2016
message: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Product: K-Pod

Done. For most applications, a single USB cable to the radio (K3S, or a K3
with a KIO3B module) is all that's required for combined computer data and
audio.

We provide lots of other DC, audio, and digital I/O too, just in case you
need it. For example, we provide a second headphone jack, second mic jack,
and stereo speaker outputs on the back. Just in case.

No way to get rid of the DC input jack, antenna jack, and ground screw, of
course.

I suppose the keyer paddle could go to Bluetooth?

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] New from Elecraft: High-Performance 200-Hz, 6-pole Crystal Filter

2016-04-15 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


On 4/15/2016 7:52 AM, Lou Voerman W2ROW wrote:


I have one quick question about the 6 pole filter. Will it have an offset
like the 5 pole filters or will the offset be zero like the 8 pole filters?


Wayne indicated that they will but that matching is not critical when
used with the new synthesizers because the new synthesizers maintain
much tighter frequency tracking from band to band.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV
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Re: [Elecraft] New from Elecraft: High-Performance 200-Hz, 6-pole Crystal Filter

2016-04-15 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


On 4/15/2016 5:33 AM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:
>

Is is possible to see also the comparison plot for new KFL3C-200 vs
old 5-poles/200Hz please?


Wayne promised the comparison plot after they returned from Visalia
(starts today) and have a chance to recover.

73,

  ... Joe, W4TV


On 4/15/2016 5:33 AM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi Wayne,

excellent! It will be helpful to all who wanted the old 5-poles/200Hz
obsolete option...

Is is possible to see also the comparison plot for new KFL3C-200 vs old
5-poles/200Hz please?

Many thanks,
73 - Petr, OK1RP



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Re: [Elecraft] New from Elecraft: High-Performance 200-Hz, 6-pole Crystal Filter

2016-04-15 Thread Lou Voerman W2ROW

I have one quick question about the 6 pole filter. Will it have an offset
like the 5 pole filters or will the offset be zero like the 8 pole filters?

Thanks,
Lou  W2ROW



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 sound recording

2016-04-15 Thread Kevin Stover

Don't see why not.

On 4/14/2016 9:11 PM, Mike Goldstein wrote:
I've been asked to do a workshop on contesting techniques next autumn, 
so I'm working on an audio/visual presentation.


Here's the question: For my K3, if I connect a line between the K3 
LINE OUT and the PC's LINE IN, will I be able to record (using 
software such as Audacity) all audio present in my K3 speaker or 
headphones?  I want to record CW and

SSB contest QSOs, to illustrate my contesting techniques.

Thanks, Mike Goldstein VE3GFN
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R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: [Elecraft] New from Elecraft: High-Performance 200-Hz, 6-pole Crystal Filter

2016-04-15 Thread brian
The plots have a disclaimer that one can't compare the passband 
attenuation for the filters.


Some of us have noticed that with the old 200 Hz 5 pole filters the 
amount of gain available to compensate for it was not enough.  I 
observed that here by comparing SPECTROGRAM peak outputs per filter.


Presumably the 6 pole 200 Hz filter will have a bit more attenuation.

How does the passband loss of the new/old 200 Hz filters compare?

73 de Brian/K3KO
On 4/15/2016 2:17 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

Some of you may recall that we discontinued our 5-pole, 200-Hz filter last 
year. Our replacement for this filter has cleared all of our stringent test 
hurdles and is now available on our order page.

The new filter (KFL3C-200) has six poles rather than five, significantly 
improving skirt selectivity. And at the center, the passband is 200 Hz at 6 dB 
down -- ideal for CW and narrowband data operation in high-QRM or QRN 
situations. (Our 5-pole filter was already a favorite of 160 meter CW contest 
veterans. The KFL3C-200 takes it up another notch. Maybe two.)

Plots for all of our filters, including an overlay comparing the KFL3A-250 
(INRAD 8-pole) to the new KFL3C-200, can be found at:

   http://www.elecraft.com/K3/K3_filter_plots.htm

Next week, when we're all recuperating from the Visalia DX convention, we'll 
provide a link to a plot showing the 5-pole vs. 6-pole filter passband. The 
improvement in skirt selectivity is quite pronounced.

This filter can be installed in a K3, K3S, or the sub receiver. To order, see:

   http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_prod_list.htm#k3filters

73,

Wayne, N6KR
Eric, WA6HHQ

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Re: [Elecraft] New from Elecraft: High-Performance 200-Hz, 6-pole Crystal Filter

2016-04-15 Thread Doug Turnbull
Wayne and Elecrafters,
   You people are wonderful!!Your company is the best.As to
anyone bringing out a 7300 or super duper PC enclosed rig those same
companies will never ever provide the same level of service, communications
and on going development of existing products.   On these points Elecraft is
unique.   Then for my money you make the best products as well.

   Last night two K-Pods were ordered.   Now it looks like I will be
ordering six pole 200 Hz filters.   "Elecraft the company that keeps on
improving".

 73 Doug EI2CN





-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
Burdick
Sent: 15 April 2016 02:17
To: Elecraft Reflector; elecr...@yahoogroups.com;
elecraft...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Elecraft] New from Elecraft: High-Performance 200-Hz,6-pole
Crystal Filter

Some of you may recall that we discontinued our 5-pole, 200-Hz filter last
year. Our replacement for this filter has cleared all of our stringent test
hurdles and is now available on our order page.

The new filter (KFL3C-200) has six poles rather than five, significantly
improving skirt selectivity. And at the center, the passband is 200 Hz at 6
dB down -- ideal for CW and narrowband data operation in high-QRM or QRN
situations. (Our 5-pole filter was already a favorite of 160 meter CW
contest veterans. The KFL3C-200 takes it up another notch. Maybe two.)

Plots for all of our filters, including an overlay comparing the KFL3A-250
(INRAD 8-pole) to the new KFL3C-200, can be found at:

  http://www.elecraft.com/K3/K3_filter_plots.htm

Next week, when we're all recuperating from the Visalia DX convention, we'll
provide a link to a plot showing the 5-pole vs. 6-pole filter passband. The
improvement in skirt selectivity is quite pronounced.

This filter can be installed in a K3, K3S, or the sub receiver. To order,
see:

  http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_prod_list.htm#k3filters

73,

Wayne, N6KR
Eric, WA6HHQ

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Re: [Elecraft] New from Elecraft: High-Performance 200-Hz, 6-pole Crystal Filter

2016-04-15 Thread Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS
Hi Wayne,

excellent! It will be helpful to all who wanted the old 5-poles/200Hz
obsolete option...

Is is possible to see also the comparison plot for new KFL3C-200 vs old
5-poles/200Hz please?

Many thanks,
73 - Petr, OK1RP



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