Re: [Elecraft] Loading Old Configuration Into New K3S

[Vic Rosenthal]

What would be useful would be a program or a function of the K3 utility that 
would pull out the nonspecific information from a configuration backup and 
restore only that.

In fact, if I were the author of the K3 utility, I would check serial numbers, 
and if they are different ask the user if he wants to restore the settings that 
are not rig-dependent.

Vic 4X6GP

> On 16 Apr 2016, at 4:15 PM, Bill  wrote:
> 
> Thank you Walter for the explanation. Now I understand why it cannot be done.
> 
> Bill W2BLC K-Line
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA Power Output

[Tom Field]

Thanks for the replies.
I have gone through the procedure again.
I used the calibration procedure outlined on the Elecraft Website.


Some observations. With no load I have 14.63 volts coming into the KXPA
100.
With the radio and amplifier on and resting, the current is approx 0.3 Amps

Steps
Set the radio in the 160 meter band
Set P Cal
Closed the menu
Set Pwr to CAL 75
Confirmed the KXPA 100 Is in bypass
Pressed Tune( I assume this is the button that says transmit)
Current rose to .9 Amps
If I took the pressure off the button, the current stayed up until I
pressed it again
The display showed 2 numbers  On top 1.1  Below 5.0
Pressed the button again
Normal Display returned
Moved on to 80 meter band
Same behaviour and findings
Moved to 60 meter band
Same
40 meters, 30 meters, 20 meters same with approximately same current
17 meters, Current went up to 1.21 Amps
15 meters 1.24 Amps
12 meters 1.45 Amps
10 meters 1.45 Amps
6 meters
Display showed 3 instead of 5 and 1.68 amps

Opened the menue and turned the PA to on

Set the PA back to auto

set power at 75 Watts
Using the KXPA Utility
Input Power  Forward Power
160 m 0.848
80 m   1.050
60 m   1.252
40 m   1.251.4
30 m   1.156.8
20 m   1.659.2
17 m   1.682
15 m   1.251
12 m   1.049.5
10 m   1.250.3
6 m 2.060.6

The only band that came close was 17 meters. I wonder if there is something
about the calibration process. Accd to the notes from the Elecraft website
"Press TUNE. The KX3 will transmit for a short while then stop. During this
transmission, the KX3 and KXPA100 will determine what drive level is needed
to get to 75 watts"

I found if I pushed and held TUNE, it started transmitting and did not stop
transmitting until I let off and pushed it again.

Advice, suggestions welcome.

Tom
KN6DR


On Sat, Apr 16, 2016 at 5:29 PM, Tom Field  wrote:

> I'm having difficulty getting more than about 70 to 80 watts out of the
> KXPA 100. I have it connected to a KX3 with the Elecraft cable and have
> gone through the calibration procedure as outlined in the owners manual and
> in Fred Cady's excellent book.
>
> For Example if I go through the calibration procedure on 40 meters,
> It appears to show a drive level of 5 watts to achieve 75 watt output.
> If I transmit into a dummy load, with the power setting at 100 watts,
> I have a drive power of about 2.6 watts and an output power of about 70
> watts as shown in the KXPA Utility.
>
> Am I missing something?
>
> Tom
> KN6DR
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA Power Output

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Regarding the procedure in the KXPA100 Owner's manual, does the output
indicate 75 watts when you set the power for 75 watts as the procedure
states? Was that done into a good 50-ohm dummy load? 

How does it behave on other bands? Remember the calibration must be done on
each band and you will need to reset the POWER control for CAL 75 on 50 MHz.


73, Ron AC7AC




-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom
Field
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2016 5:30 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KXPA Power Output

I'm having difficulty getting more than about 70 to 80 watts out of the KXPA
100. I have it connected to a KX3 with the Elecraft cable and have gone
through the calibration procedure as outlined in the owners manual and in
Fred Cady's excellent book.

For Example if I go through the calibration procedure on 40 meters, It
appears to show a drive level of 5 watts to achieve 75 watt output.
If I transmit into a dummy load, with the power setting at 100 watts, I have
a drive power of about 2.6 watts and an output power of about 70 watts as
shown in the KXPA Utility.

Am I missing something?

Tom
KN6DR
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[Elecraft] VE3GFN K3 Sound recording

[Mike Goldstein]

Thanks to all who offered ideas, encouragement, and an alternative 
point of view, on my query re K3 sound recording.


I've not tried to implement all this so far, but hopefully, this 
weekend, and I'll report back on my results. QRX ... 73 Mike VE3GFN

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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA Power Output

[Nr4c]

You need to do the 70 watt cal with at lest 14 volts at amp power pole. And use 
biggest and shortest cable to minimize losses. Same power setup for operation. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Apr 16, 2016, at 8:29 PM, Tom Field  wrote:
> 
> I'm having difficulty getting more than about 70 to 80 watts out of the
> KXPA 100. I have it connected to a KX3 with the Elecraft cable and have
> gone through the calibration procedure as outlined in the owners manual and
> in Fred Cady's excellent book.
> 
> For Example if I go through the calibration procedure on 40 meters,
> It appears to show a drive level of 5 watts to achieve 75 watt output.
> If I transmit into a dummy load, with the power setting at 100 watts,
> I have a drive power of about 2.6 watts and an output power of about 70
> watts as shown in the KXPA Utility.
> 
> Am I missing something?
> 
> Tom
> KN6DR
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA Power Output

[Bob N3MNT]

Look at the actual voltage into the KXPA100 during transmit.  This can happen
if the voltage is below 13.8-14.  I had to adjust my Astron 35 amp as at
13.5V I saw almost the same thing.



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KXPA-Power-Output-tp7616454p7616455.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] KXPA Power Output

[Tom Field]

I'm having difficulty getting more than about 70 to 80 watts out of the
KXPA 100. I have it connected to a KX3 with the Elecraft cable and have
gone through the calibration procedure as outlined in the owners manual and
in Fred Cady's excellent book.

For Example if I go through the calibration procedure on 40 meters,
It appears to show a drive level of 5 watts to achieve 75 watt output.
If I transmit into a dummy load, with the power setting at 100 watts,
I have a drive power of about 2.6 watts and an output power of about 70
watts as shown in the KXPA Utility.

Am I missing something?

Tom
KN6DR
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Re: [Elecraft] Fan question on K3

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Ronnie: Since you apparently are not aware of the following, I presume you
bought a factory built K3 with the KPA3 installed. There's a test you can
run to verify the fans are working and a calibration procedure that sets the
temperature at which they start. 

PA Temperature Sensor Calibration - You will need a thermometer to measure
your room temperature. (This test is in your K3S Owner's Manual)

1) Leave the K3/K3s off for at least 15 minutes to be sure the rig is at
room temperature. 
2) Turn the K3/K3S on and in the CONFIG menu locate the PA TEMP entry. 
3) Adjust VFOA to change the reading to match your room thermometer. The
reading is in Celsius so if your room thermometer is in Fahrenheit calculate
the corresponding Celsius value: Deg. C = (deg. Fahrenheit - 32) X 0.555.

Fan Test (This test is in the KPA3 Installation Manual).

1) With the K3 on, hold CONFIG to select the Configuration menu, then turn
VFO B to KPA3. 
2) Turn the VFO A knob to PAIO ON, then turn it further to PAIO TST and then
on past TST to FN1, then FN2, FN3 and FN4. The fans should start turning at
FN1 and increase speed as you continue to FN4.
3) Be sure the fans blowing air out of the back of the K3/K3S. Looking at
the back of the K3, the fans should rotate clockwise. 


73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ronnie
Hull
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2016 1:42 PM
To: tnny...@yahoo.com
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fan question on K3

Buster rocks! Buster has worked 212 countries since I birthed him!

Ronnie

Sent from Ronnie's IPhone

> On Apr 16, 2016, at 15:19,   wrote:
> 
> >>> buster don't need to cool off  <<<
> 
> Quit worrying  WORRIsum!  
> Buster was made by Elecraft!!!
> 
> Milverton / W9MMS. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: Ronnie Hull 
> To: 
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
> Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2016 2:37 PM
> Subject: [Elecraft] Fan question on K3
> 
> First, I'm having no trouble with my K3 ( which was delivered to me a week
before they announced the S grrr).
> I have NEVER felt or heard the fans running! My K3 ( nick named Buster )
is warm to the touch, never HOT, but still even in a 48 hour contest I've
never been aware of them running!
> Either buster don't need to cool off or something is wrong?
> Anyone have an opinion on this?
> 
> W5sum Ronnie
> 
> 
> __
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> tnny...@yahoo.com
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Fan question on K3

[Gary Smith]

To adjust for a specific fan speed, this 
is as written in the manual:

--
Fan Speed

The K3S/100 includes two large, quiet 
fans. Fan speeds are normally selected 
automatically, but you can manually select 
a minimum fan speed if desired. See the 
CONFIG:KPA3 menu entry.


I never have found the K3 to get hot, 
ever. Nothing like the hot my old Drake 
TR-7 used to get.

That said, I'm a bugger for driving with 
low power so I often have the amp on in 
case there's some DX I want to go for and 
don't want to wait for the warm up period. 
So I'll set the drive from the K3 (& now 
the K3s), at 2-5 watts or so and with the 
amp being QSK, it works perfectly and if I 
want to go QRP, I'm already there.

I could just drive the radio at 100W which 
is what most of us do but I like doing it 
this way. Besides, I don't like turning 
the amp on & off multiple times throughout 
the day, I understand that isn't nice to 
the tubes over the course of years. So 
this way I have a cool rig, no issues with 
distortion, and the amp is always ready to 
go. Only downside is a higher noise level 
in the shack but to that end, I almost 
always wear the Bose QC-15 and they make 
the noise go away.

73,

Gary
KA1J

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[Elecraft] nf:

[frank wiebusch via Elecraft]

http://rivermiststudios.com/ddpnkhn.php





























***For whom the Lord loveth he 
chasteneth.Orrell Solid
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Re: [Elecraft] Fan question on K3

[Ronnie Hull]

Buster rocks! Buster has worked 212 countries since I birthed him!

Ronnie

Sent from Ronnie's IPhone

> On Apr 16, 2016, at 15:19,   wrote:
> 
> >>> buster don't need to cool off  <<<
> 
> Quit worrying  WORRIsum!  
> Buster was made by Elecraft!!!
> 
> Milverton / W9MMS. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: Ronnie Hull 
> To: 
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
> Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2016 2:37 PM
> Subject: [Elecraft] Fan question on K3
> 
> First, I'm having no trouble with my K3 ( which was delivered to me a week 
> before they announced the S grrr).
> I have NEVER felt or heard the fans running! My K3 ( nick named Buster ) is 
> warm to the touch, never HOT, but still even in a 48 hour contest I've never 
> been aware of them running!
> Either buster don't need to cool off or something is wrong?
> Anyone have an opinion on this?
> 
> W5sum Ronnie
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 clock problem

[Joe W2KJ]

Just solved my problem with the clock...the BAT CHG needed to be set to "not 
inSt".

Everything is now well with the world (grin).

73, Joe W2KJ
I QRP, therefore I am

On Apr 16, 2016, at 4:27 PM, Joe W2KJ wrote:

> Howdy Fellow Elecrafters"
> 
> Just received a previously owned KX3 s/n 6027 and am unable to set the 
> realtime clock.
> 
> The clock display is stuck on "45.85.85" and I can't reset the digits.
> 
> I have another older KX3 and the clock sets easily with no problems.
> 
> Anyone out there have any idea what is going on with the clock in s/n 6027?
> 
> Any assistance/info most welcome.
> 
>   73, Joe W2KJ
>   I QRP, therefore I am.
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[Elecraft] KX3 clock problem

[Joe W2KJ]

Howdy Fellow Elecrafters"

Just received a previously owned KX3 s/n 6027 and am unable to set the realtime 
clock.

The clock display is stuck on "45.85.85" and I can't reset the digits.

I have another older KX3 and the clock sets easily with no problems.

Anyone out there have any idea what is going on with the clock in s/n 6027?

Any assistance/info most welcome.

73, Joe W2KJ
I QRP, therefore I am.
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Re: [Elecraft] Fan question on K3

[Milverton M. Swire via Elecraft]

>>> buster don't need to cool off  <<<
Quit worrying  WORRIsum!  
Buster was made by Elecraft!!!
Milverton / W9MMS. 




  From: Ronnie Hull 
 To: 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
 Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2016 2:37 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Fan question on K3
   
First, I'm having no trouble with my K3 ( which was delivered to me a week 
before they announced the S grrr).
I have NEVER felt or heard the fans running! My K3 ( nick named Buster ) is 
warm to the touch, never HOT, but still even in a 48 hour contest I've never 
been aware of them running!
Either buster don't need to cool off or something is wrong?
Anyone have an opinion on this?

W5sum Ronnie


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Re: [Elecraft] Headset PTT Options

[Nr4c]

Dagnabbit!  The photo got stripped!

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Apr 16, 2016, at 3:45 PM, Nr4c  wrote:
> 
> Both front PTT(in mic connector) and rear Phono jack are in parallel. 
> 
> I use either VOX (for contesting) and a home-made PTT switch plugged into 
> rear jack for other use. 
> 
> Under the "flap" are two SMD push buttons wired in parallel with a cable to 
> rear PTT. Box is 3.5 X 4 inches and made on my 3D printer. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
> 
> 
>> On Apr 15, 2016, at 11:34 PM, Mike Walkington  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> All,
>> 
>> At the risk of this request being lost in the euphoric response to the K3 
>> K-Pod. I'm wondering what options you might be using / prefer to provide 
>> the PTT function for a K3S connected headset. I know options including (1) 
>> VOX, (2) PTT button on an alternative plugged in microphone, (3) PTT pickle 
>> switch, (4) PTT foot switch. What about your preference for enabling several 
>> (ie pickle and foot switch) of these in parallel
>> 
>> Mike VK1OO
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Fan question on K3

[Robert Nobis]

Ronnie,

You can manually select a minimum fan speed if desired. See the CONFIG:KPA3 
menu entry.

73,


Bob Nobis - N7RJN
n7...@nobis.net


> On Apr 16, 2016, at 12:37, Ronnie Hull  wrote:
> 
> First, I'm having no trouble with my K3 ( which was delivered to me a week 
> before they announced the S grrr).
> I have NEVER felt or heard the fans running! My K3 ( nick named Buster ) is 
> warm to the touch, never HOT, but still even in a 48 hour contest I've never 
> been aware of them running!
> Either buster don't need to cool off or something is wrong?
> Anyone have an opinion on this?
> 
> W5sum Ronnie
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Fan question on K3

[Nr4c]

The manual describes a "Fan test procedure" to run the fans at each speed to 
make sure they are working. You can also use this to set the fans to a speed if 
you are working in a warm room or outdoors in sun and running high power and 
find the radio unusually hot. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Apr 16, 2016, at 3:37 PM, Ronnie Hull  wrote:
> 
> First, I'm having no trouble with my K3 ( which was delivered to me a week 
> before they announced the S grrr).
> I have NEVER felt or heard the fans running! My K3 ( nick named Buster ) is 
> warm to the touch, never HOT, but still even in a 48 hour contest I've never 
> been aware of them running!
> Either buster don't need to cool off or something is wrong?
> Anyone have an opinion on this?
> 
> W5sum Ronnie
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Fan question on K3

[Gary]

I have not heard the fans on my k3 since 2008...:-)
Oh, and I don't expect to in the future.
If you are unsure, place your fingers close and feel the breeze.
73
Gary 

-Original Message-
From: "Ronnie Hull" 
Sent: ‎17/‎04/‎2016 5:38 AM
Cc: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Subject: [Elecraft] Fan question on K3

First, I'm having no trouble with my K3 ( which was delivered to me a week 
before they announced the S grrr).
I have NEVER felt or heard the fans running! My K3 ( nick named Buster ) is 
warm to the touch, never HOT, but still even in a 48 hour contest I've never 
been aware of them running!
Either buster don't need to cool off or something is wrong?
Anyone have an opinion on this?

W5sum Ronnie


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Re: [Elecraft] Power pins on P3

[Nr4c]

Download the manual. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Apr 16, 2016, at 12:07 PM, Richard W Hemingway  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> I am wondering which of the pins I should use to allow the P3 turn on when 
> the K3s is turned on: Power Control Pins 2 & 3 or Pins 1 & 2, (where the 
> Power switch is disabled).Thanks, Dick, N5XRD 
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Re: [Elecraft] Headset PTT Options

[Nr4c]

Both front PTT(in mic connector) and rear Phono jack are in parallel. 

I use either VOX (for contesting) and a home-made PTT switch plugged into rear 
jack for other use. 

Under the "flap" are two SMD push buttons wired in parallel with a cable to 
rear PTT. Box is 3.5 X 4 inches and made on my 3D printer. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Apr 15, 2016, at 11:34 PM, Mike Walkington  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> All,
> 
> At the risk of this request being lost in the euphoric response to the K3 
> K-Pod. I'm wondering what options you might be using / prefer to provide 
> the PTT function for a K3S connected headset. I know options including (1) 
> VOX, (2) PTT button on an alternative plugged in microphone, (3) PTT pickle 
> switch, (4) PTT foot switch. What about your preference for enabling several 
> (ie pickle and foot switch) of these in parallel
> 
> Mike VK1OO
> 
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[Elecraft] Fan question on K3

[Ronnie Hull]

First, I'm having no trouble with my K3 ( which was delivered to me a week 
before they announced the S grrr).
I have NEVER felt or heard the fans running! My K3 ( nick named Buster ) is 
warm to the touch, never HOT, but still even in a 48 hour contest I've never 
been aware of them running!
Either buster don't need to cool off or something is wrong?
Anyone have an opinion on this?

W5sum Ronnie


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Antenna Questions

[Don Wilhelm]

Steve,

If you have other non-resonant antennas, the easiest way to handle the 
resonant antennas is to simply connect those antennas to the ANT1/ANT2 
jacks, and do a TUNE into those antennas then operate.


You can instead change the ATU menu parameter to either CAL P or CAL S 
and the L/C elements in the tuner will be bypassed.
Note that the Pout parameter retains the last used L/C combination, so 
that is not a bypass situation.


You will not (and should not) use the BNC connector on the K2 lower 
panel next to the key jack when the KAT2 is installed because you will 
not have control over the output power (power will go to maximum and can 
destroy the PA transistors).  Put a cap over that BNC jack.


Please refrain from calling that DE-9 connector on the back of the K2 a 
"serial connector" - it is NOT.
Yes, it contains 3 wires that are compatable with RS-232, but it also 
contains internal K2 signals to connect external Elecraft hardware such 
as the KAT100, KRC2 and XV series transverters.
To connect with a computer, you must use a special cable.  If you did 
not receive that special cable to the computer with your K2, you can 
build it (you cannot buy it) from that shown in the KIO2 manual.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/16/2016 11:27 AM, myf...@nc.rr.com wrote:

I purchased my first Elecraft radio, which is a K2.  It has the auto antenner 
tuner, and some other options.  I have ant 1, ant 2, where tuner is and also 
antenna 50 ohm, and RCV Ant jack.  I have a couple antennas that I do not want 
to use tuner with, and was wondering which jack to use and then how to select 
it.

I am in the process of loading pictures of my K2, outside shot and inside 
shots, onto my QRZ page.  Please look and tell me what options I have too.

I think I have 160 addition, serial connector, antenna tuner, internal battery, 
and I don't know what else.

Thank you

Steve
KI4EZL
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Re: [Elecraft] Power pins on P3

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

It depends upon whether you want the ability to also shut off the P3 from its 
front panel switch.

>From your P3 Owner's manual under "Configuration": 

Pins 2 & 3: P3 turns on automatically when power is applied to the rear panel 
connector. P3 may be turned off and on using the POWER switch as long as power 
is applied.

Pins 1 & 2: POWER switch is disabled. P3 turns on automatically and remains on 
as long as power is
applied to the rear panel connector.

Of course those options assume you are powering the P3 from the K3 12V 
connector on the rear panel so the power supplied to the P3 goes on and off 
with the K3. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Richard W 
Hemingway
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2016 9:08 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Power pins on P3

Hi,
I am wondering which of the pins I should use to allow the P3 turn on when the 
K3s is turned on: Power Control Pins 2 & 3 or Pins 1 & 2, (where the Power 
switch is disabled).Thanks, Dick, N5XRD 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 and KAT2

[EricJ]

I have a setup exactly like the Wilcox Engineering setup. I have a 
second K2 with the KAT2 installed just for QRP, but I've had it  
connected to the KPA100 also. Works fine and is a very impressive little 
package on the desk.


The Wilcox Eng. text says to be sure to power up the KPA100 before the 
K2. I'd never heard that before.  I power both with the same power 
supply recommended and sold by Elecraft. I hit the PS switch then the K2 
front panel switch, so maybe that's what he means.


Eric
KE6US

On 4/16/2016 9:43 AM, Kevin Stover wrote:

http://wilcoxengineering.com/kpa100-in-ec2/

You've got to have the KIO2, an EC2 enclosure, and the KAT100PNL kit.
KIO2 goes in the QRP K2, KPA100 and KAT100 go in the new EC2 enclosure 
which has the KAT100PNL kit installed.
Assuming you've got the KAT100-1 you can use the serial cable you 
built. K2 end goes to the new KIO2, tuner end goes to either the 
KPA100 or the KAT100, left over connector goes to PC.


On 4/16/2016 10:47 AM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

 Another possibility for a quick conversion to QRPis to move both the 
KAT100 and the KPA100 to an EC-2 enclosure and install the KAT2 in the 
base K2. I have seen references in the archives to the possibility of 
doing that conversion, but they leave a number of questions open. Once 
the KPA100 is installed in the K2, is it possible to move it over to 
an EC-2 with the KAT100? If so, is there a procedure published somewhere?





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[Elecraft] KAT100-1 vs KAT100-2

[Dauer, Edward]

Many thanks, Ken; your paper on converting to a KAT100-2 in the EC-2 is just 
what I needed.

My initial question to the reflector was answered when I learned that the KAT2 
mounts in the base K2 cover (thanks to several people who told me that.)   But 
having resolved that issue, the next question is whether the arrangement I 
presently have is the best for my uses.  When I first purchased the K2 I 
debated which way to go, and decided at the time to use the low-profile 
enclosure for the KAT100 principally to reduce the footprint on my desk.  
(Stacking the K2 on top of an EC2 looked possible but it would have put the K2 
display too high for comfortable viewing.  By contrast the KAT100-1 low-profile 
enclosure is both shorter and has a shorter tilt bale.)

I have since learned that while it is certainly feasible to swap the base K2 
cover for the cover with the KPA100 every time I go from QRO to QRP, as it 
turns out removing all the screws and especially the internal plugs requires 
more care and is a bit more cumbersome than I had thought it would be.  So, 
converting the KAT100-1 to a KAT100-2, and installing the KPA100 in the EC-2 
enclosure, is one way to make the transitions easier, even if the footprint is 
larger.

From reading your paper I gather I will need the EC-2, the KAT100PNL conversion 
kit, the KAT2 for the base K2, and the KI02.  The literature about the KI02 
suggests it is required for computer control of the K2, which I don’t care 
about – but I take it that having a KI02 is necessary for the conversion as the 
way the K2 will communicate with the KPA in the EC-2, yes?  The remaining 
questions are whether the new toroid you recommend is included in the 
conversion kit or if the core will also have to be ordered; and whether, having 
initially installed the KPA100 in the K2 and the KAT100 in the low-profile 
enclosure, anything irrevocable was done that would complicate moving them 
both.  From the manuals it seems not, but I thought I’d ask . . .

Finally, I know I could have sent this to you off-list.  But I found your paper 
very useful, and my experiences with the enclosure choice possibly useful to 
others who may be making the same decision, that I thought I would post them 
here and have it captured for the archives.

Thanks again,

Ted, KN1CBR
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Re: [Elecraft] Power pins on P3

[Chester Alderman]

Dick,

In the manuals that came with your K3 and P3, there are explanations on how to 
do this. You don't need to add anything!

Tom - W4BQF


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Richard W 
Hemingway
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2016 12:08 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Power pins on P3

Hi,
I am wondering which of the pins I should use to allow the P3 turn on when the 
K3s is turned on: Power Control Pins 2 & 3 or Pins 1 & 2, (where the Power 
switch is disabled).Thanks, Dick, N5XRD 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Antenna Questions

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

The DB9 connection **IS NOT RS232** on K2. Three of the pins **ONLY** carry
the main RS232 but they need to be picked off with a special cable. This is
in the manual which you can download from the Elecraft site.

** DO NOT CONNECT YOUR PC AND K2 WITH A REGULAR SERIAL CABLE **

You can cause damage in both units.

Haven't seen this warning on the reflector in a while. The other six pins
connect to an externally housed 100 watt amp and/or 100 watt antenna tuner,
and carry proprietary signals and voltages that have nothing to do with
RS232.

I have a battery K2/10 with the 100 w amp and tuner in an EC2 enclosure.
Very slick. Uses the Y cable in the manual to control the stuff in the EC2
box and talk to the PC from the non-standard DB9 which is not RS232.

Good luck with your K2 and 73, Guy K2AV

On Saturday, April 16, 2016, myf...@nc.rr.com  wrote:

> I purchased my first Elecraft radio, which is a K2.  It has the auto
> antenner tuner, and some other options.  I have ant 1, ant 2, where tuner
> is and also antenna 50 ohm, and RCV Ant jack.  I have a couple antennas
> that I do not want to use tuner with, and was wondering which jack to use
> and then how to select it.
>
> I am in the process of loading pictures of my K2, outside shot and inside
> shots, onto my QRZ page.  Please look and tell me what options I have too.
>
> I think I have 160 addition, serial connector, antenna tuner, internal
> battery, and I don't know what else.
>
> Thank you
>
> Steve
> KI4EZL
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>


-- 
Sent via Gmail Mobile on my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 and KAT2

[Kevin Stover]

http://wilcoxengineering.com/kpa100-in-ec2/

You've got to have the KIO2, an EC2 enclosure, and the KAT100PNL kit.
KIO2 goes in the QRP K2, KPA100 and KAT100 go in the new EC2 enclosure 
which has the KAT100PNL kit installed.
Assuming you've got the KAT100-1 you can use the serial cable you built. 
K2 end goes to the new KIO2, tuner end goes to either the KPA100 or the 
KAT100, left over connector goes to PC.


On 4/16/2016 10:47 AM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

 Another possibility for a quick conversion to QRPis to move both the 
KAT100 and the KPA100 to an EC-2 enclosure and install the KAT2 in the 
base K2. I have seen references in the archives to the possibility of 
doing that conversion, but they leave a number of questions open. Once 
the KPA100 is installed in the K2, is it possible to move it over to an 
EC-2 with the KAT100? If so, is there a procedure published somewhere?



--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 and KAT2

[Dale Putnam]

Hi Ed,
 Yes, if the KPA100 and the KAT100 are mounted in the EC2 the qrp K2 can have 
the qrp tuner also. Then it is a matter of what you tell it to do by how it is 
connected. 

Have a great day,
--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy



From: Elecraft  on behalf of Dauer, Edward 

Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2016 9:47 AM
To: Kurt Cramer; Brian Denley
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 and KAT2

I have the same at present, though with self-adhesive Velcro (the GA
pilot’s best friend.)  Horizontal trips on each side of the K2 and the
KAT100-1, and two short vertical strips mated to each side to hold the two
boxes together.

Knowing that the KAT2 mounts in the base K2 cover makes it all make sense;
I was unable to access the KAT2 manual to see that last night.

Another possibility for a quick conversion to QRPis to move both the
KAT100 and the KPA100 to an EC-2 enclosure and install the KAT2 in the
base K2.  I have seen references in the archives to the possibility of
doing that conversion, but they leave a number of questions open.  Once
the KPA100 is installed in the K2, is it possible to move it over to an
EC-2 with the KAT100?  If so, is there a procedure published somewhere?

Ted, KN1CBR






On 4/16/16, 8:40 AM, "Kurt Cramer"  wrote:

>You guys are making this too hard. The 20 watt tunner mounts in the QRP
>K2 top. When you take off the QRP top off to put on the 100 watt amp the
>QRP tunner has gone away. I have both tunners and it is no problem going
>back and forth. The 100 watt runner has places for the K2’s feet to fit
>into on it’s top. So the K2 and tunner stay togeather. But the K2 will
>lift off. I made some side plates out of aluminum that go under both the
>K2’s sides and the tunner’s sides. Now if I pick-up the K2 the tunner
>comes with it.
>
>Kurt/W7QHD
>> On Apr 15, 2016, at 8:36 PM, Brian Denley  wrote:
>>
>> Ted:
>> You might look into building the K2/100 in the 'Twins' configuration.
>>To switch from 100 watts to qrp just requires disconnection the power
>>amp box.  This configuration allows the KAT2 to be used along with the
>>high power tuner.  I built mine that way and it works very well.
>>
>> Brian
>> KB1VBF
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>> On Apr 15, 2016, at 10:56 PM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
>>>
>>> A question for those who have the K2/100 ---
>>>
>>> I finished building and am now becoming familiar with operating the
>>>K2/100 and the KAT100-1.  It’s a great combination; but for portable
>>>work it’s heavy and there are two boxes.  At the time I bought it I did
>>>not purchase the KAT2 – the internal low power tuner.  My questions
>>>have to do with having both the KAT2 and the 100W amp. Installed at the
>>>same time.  I tried investigating this in the manuals but for some
>>>reason the link to the online KAT2 manual isn’t working tonight.
>>>
>>> Two questions.  First, is there a physical space problem if a K2 has
>>>the 100W option, and the KNB2, and the APF/Clock option ,and the KAT2,
>>>or can the KAT2 stay on board even when the 100W amp is in place?
>>>Second, does the system switch automatically from the KAT2 to the
>>>outboard KAT100-1 when the amp is in (or when the power exceeds the
>>>KAT2’s limit?)  What I mean to be asking is whether having the KAT2
>>>inside will complicate the process of removing the amp to go “barefoot”
>>>with the base K2.  As it stands now it’s six screws twice, five plugs,
>>>and no configuration changes.  Does having a KAT2 on board add anything
>>>to that?
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance . . .
>>>
>>> Ted, KN1CBR
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>>
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[Elecraft] Power pins on P3

[Richard W Hemingway]

Hi,
I am wondering which of the pins I should use to allow the P3 turn on when the 
K3s is turned on: Power Control Pins 2 & 3 or Pins 1 & 2, (where the Power 
switch is disabled).Thanks, Dick, N5XRD 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 and KAT2

[Dauer, Edward]

I have the same at present, though with self-adhesive Velcro (the GA 
pilot’s best friend.)  Horizontal trips on each side of the K2 and the 
KAT100-1, and two short vertical strips mated to each side to hold the two 
boxes together.

Knowing that the KAT2 mounts in the base K2 cover makes it all make sense; 
I was unable to access the KAT2 manual to see that last night.

Another possibility for a quick conversion to QRPis to move both the 
KAT100 and the KPA100 to an EC-2 enclosure and install the KAT2 in the 
base K2.  I have seen references in the archives to the possibility of 
doing that conversion, but they leave a number of questions open.  Once 
the KPA100 is installed in the K2, is it possible to move it over to an 
EC-2 with the KAT100?  If so, is there a procedure published somewhere?

Ted, KN1CBR






On 4/16/16, 8:40 AM, "Kurt Cramer"  wrote:

>You guys are making this too hard. The 20 watt tunner mounts in the QRP 
>K2 top. When you take off the QRP top off to put on the 100 watt amp the 
>QRP tunner has gone away. I have both tunners and it is no problem going 
>back and forth. The 100 watt runner has places for the K2’s feet to fit 
>into on it’s top. So the K2 and tunner stay togeather. But the K2 will 
>lift off. I made some side plates out of aluminum that go under both the 
>K2’s sides and the tunner’s sides. Now if I pick-up the K2 the tunner 
>comes with it. 
>
>Kurt/W7QHD
>> On Apr 15, 2016, at 8:36 PM, Brian Denley  wrote:
>> 
>> Ted:
>> You might look into building the K2/100 in the 'Twins' configuration.  
>>To switch from 100 watts to qrp just requires disconnection the power 
>>amp box.  This configuration allows the KAT2 to be used along with the 
>>high power tuner.  I built mine that way and it works very well.
>> 
>> Brian 
>> KB1VBF
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Apr 15, 2016, at 10:56 PM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
>>> 
>>> A question for those who have the K2/100 ---
>>> 
>>> I finished building and am now becoming familiar with operating the 
>>>K2/100 and the KAT100-1.  It’s a great combination; but for portable 
>>>work it’s heavy and there are two boxes.  At the time I bought it I did 
>>>not purchase the KAT2 – the internal low power tuner.  My questions 
>>>have to do with having both the KAT2 and the 100W amp. Installed at the 
>>>same time.  I tried investigating this in the manuals but for some 
>>>reason the link to the online KAT2 manual isn’t working tonight.
>>> 
>>> Two questions.  First, is there a physical space problem if a K2 has 
>>>the 100W option, and the KNB2, and the APF/Clock option ,and the KAT2, 
>>>or can the KAT2 stay on board even when the 100W amp is in place?  
>>>Second, does the system switch automatically from the KAT2 to the 
>>>outboard KAT100-1 when the amp is in (or when the power exceeds the 
>>>KAT2’s limit?)  What I mean to be asking is whether having the KAT2 
>>>inside will complicate the process of removing the amp to go “barefoot” 
>>>with the base K2.  As it stands now it’s six screws twice, five plugs, 
>>>and no configuration changes.  Does having a KAT2 on board add anything 
>>>to that?
>>> 
>>> Thanks in advance . . .
>>> 
>>> Ted, KN1CBR
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[Elecraft] K2 Antenna Questions

[myf...@nc.rr.com]

I purchased my first Elecraft radio, which is a K2.  It has the auto antenner 
tuner, and some other options.  I have ant 1, ant 2, where tuner is and also 
antenna 50 ohm, and RCV Ant jack.  I have a couple antennas that I do not want 
to use tuner with, and was wondering which jack to use and then how to select 
it.

I am in the process of loading pictures of my K2, outside shot and inside 
shots, onto my QRZ page.  Please look and tell me what options I have too.

I think I have 160 addition, serial connector, antenna tuner, internal battery, 
and I don't know what else.

Thank you

Steve
KI4EZL
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 and KAT2

[Kurt Cramer]

You guys are making this too hard. The 20 watt tunner mounts in the QRP K2 top. 
When you take off the QRP top off to put on the 100 watt amp the QRP tunner has 
gone away. I have both tunners and it is no problem going back and forth. The 
100 watt runner has places for the K2’s feet to fit into on it’s top. So the K2 
and tunner stay togeather. But the K2 will lift off. I made some side plates 
out of aluminum that go under both the K2’s sides and the tunner’s sides. Now 
if I pick-up the K2 the tunner comes with it. 

Kurt/W7QHD
> On Apr 15, 2016, at 8:36 PM, Brian Denley  wrote:
> 
> Ted:
> You might look into building the K2/100 in the 'Twins' configuration.  To 
> switch from 100 watts to qrp just requires disconnection the power amp box.  
> This configuration allows the KAT2 to be used along with the high power 
> tuner.  I built mine that way and it works very well.
> 
> Brian 
> KB1VBF
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Apr 15, 2016, at 10:56 PM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
>> 
>> A question for those who have the K2/100 ---
>> 
>> I finished building and am now becoming familiar with operating the K2/100 
>> and the KAT100-1.  It’s a great combination; but for portable work it’s 
>> heavy and there are two boxes.  At the time I bought it I did not purchase 
>> the KAT2 – the internal low power tuner.  My questions have to do with 
>> having both the KAT2 and the 100W amp. Installed at the same time.  I tried 
>> investigating this in the manuals but for some reason the link to the online 
>> KAT2 manual isn’t working tonight.
>> 
>> Two questions.  First, is there a physical space problem if a K2 has the 
>> 100W option, and the KNB2, and the APF/Clock option ,and the KAT2, or can 
>> the KAT2 stay on board even when the 100W amp is in place?  Second, does the 
>> system switch automatically from the KAT2 to the outboard KAT100-1 when the 
>> amp is in (or when the power exceeds the KAT2’s limit?)  What I mean to be 
>> asking is whether having the KAT2 inside will complicate the process of 
>> removing the amp to go “barefoot” with the base K2.  As it stands now it’s 
>> six screws twice, five plugs, and no configuration changes.  Does having a 
>> KAT2 on board add anything to that?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance . . .
>> 
>> Ted, KN1CBR
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 and KAT2

[Dale Putnam]

I currently have my K2-100 sitting on top of the KAT100... works fine. I also 
have a qrp lid for the K2 with its tuner. As soon as I can get an EC2, it will 
become, a K2 with qrp tuner, and a KPA100 with KAT100.. and a digital K2 
alongside. Then I plan to do qrp portable or mobile... and .. well.. whose 
kidding who.. qrp at the house too.. but the EC2 will look great between the 
two, right?

Have a great day,
--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy

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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 and KAT2

[Kevin Stover]

I'm going to be doing the KPA100 and KAT100-1 in the EC2 enclosure or K2 
"Twins" and then look at the T-1 outboard tuner for any QRP wild hairs I 
get.



On 4/15/2016 11:24 PM, lstavenhagen wrote:

I researched this at one point also, and I believe you can't have them in
there at the same time. There's not room for the KAT2 and the KPA100 both in
the same top cover and I don't believe it'll even work electrically.

So you're pretty much stuck with one or the other and an external tuner in
the case of the K2/100.

If I go QRO, I'm soon to have 4 10W rigs so I'm looking at the KXPA100 with
a tuner in it. And just using that with all the rigs, one at a time of
course. For my K2's, that'll involve putting in a keying circuit and of
course that's going to be the 2-boxes thing when I go /p.

Haven't definitely decided on it, but that may be the most economical option
for me.

73,
LS
W5QD






--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: [Elecraft] Loading Old Configuration Into New K3S

[Bill]

Thank you Walter for the explanation. Now I understand why it cannot be 
done.


Bill W2BLC K-Line

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Re: [Elecraft] Headset PTT Options

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

What about your preference for enabling several (ie pickle and foot
switch) of these in parallel


I use both a foot switch and a hand switch (PTT switch from an old
Telex headset) in parallel.  Both have RCA connectors and I use a
"Y" cable to connect them to the PTT jack on the back of the K3.

73,

  ... Joe, W4TV


On 4/15/2016 11:34 PM, Mike Walkington wrote:


All,

At the risk of this request being lost in the euphoric response to the
K3 K-Pod. I'm wondering what options you might be using / prefer to
provide the PTT function for a K3S connected headset. I know options
including (1) VOX, (2) PTT button on an alternative plugged in
microphone, (3) PTT pickle switch, (4) PTT foot switch. What about your
preference for enabling several (ie pickle and foot switch) of these in
parallel

Mike VK1OO

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Re: [Elecraft] Headset PTT Options

[Mike Dodd]

On 4/15/2016 11:34 PM, Mike Walkington wrote:


All,

(4) PTT foot switch. What about your
preference for enabling several (ie pickle and foot switch) of these in
parallel


I use (4) PTT foot switch.

I don't understand your "in parallel" question. I have one foot switch 
plugged into the K3's rear panel PTT jack, and use it for the Heil GM-5 
plugged into the MIC connector on the front panel, and for the Yamaha 
CM500 headset plugged into the rear panel MIC and PHONES jacks.


The headphones are always on, but I can't hear the audio because the 
phones are clapped together while the speaker is on.


I switch mics with MENU: MIC SEL, which also sets the high/low gain 
selection and mic bias on/off.


The Heil mic cable originally was for a Yaesu plug (I think), but I 
diked-off the RJ connector, and installed a round Kenwood-style plug to 
match the K3's jack.


I did not install a 1/4" phone jack near the round plug because the foot 
switch is plugged into the rear panel, and the GM-5's PTT button works 
without it.


Now, why did you ask about PTT devices in parallel?

--
73, Mike N4CF
Louisa County, VA USA
Elecraft K3s/100
Carolina Windom up 45'
http://n4cf.mdodd.com
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