Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

[Jim Brown]

You're moving in the right direction, Alan. Study the QST article to 
learn as much as possible about the concepts. Remember that RF is 
radiated by CURRENT flowing on conductors that are not shielded, and 
that differential current on a transmission line is not radiated. 
Twisting helps that tremendously.


Study my RFI piece. I'd be happy to chat if you want to work through 
some ideas and concepts. Yes, inverters integral to panels can minimize 
RFI IF the units are properly designed, but that can be a very big if. 
:)  Also, buy Henry Ott's excellent EMC text and study it. Published by 
Wiley, you want the latest edition (c.a. 2007-8).


73, Jim K9YC



On Mon,7/18/2016 7:32 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:
I am now leaning on going with a local company rather than Solar City. 
They quoted a higher price for a lower-power system, but because of 
some convoluted accounting it will actually end up costing me less.  
And they are at least willing to talk about adding some common-mode 
chokes. Their system uses micro-inverters on each panel, which 
potentially should cause less interference because all the switching  
electronics is localized with short connections.  Only 240 VAC 60 Hz 
comes out of the panels.

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Re: [Elecraft] Powered Portable Speakers

[Jim Brown]

On Mon,7/18/2016 6:26 PM, Ken G Kopp wrote:

One set is immediately beside my KPA500 with no interference.


That's meaningless, Ken. RF is radiated by antennas, not shielded boxes. 
:)  The most severe RFI to/from my shack is when I'm using a 160M Tee 
vertical 20 ft from my operating desk.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] deoxit

[Rich Assarabowski]

What's the consensus on the best stuff to use on all contacts and
connections during assembly of a new K3?   Caig DeoxIT Gold G-series
(formerly ProGold)?   Stabilant 22A?   Something else?

--- Rich K1CC

>I cleaned the connector and I put few drops of Stabilant 22A and the
problem
>seems resolved. My friend VE2OLM have a PCB design and assembly shop. He
>need sometime to rework some boards and he need use that stuff to correct
>the problem. Also use by NATO
>
>http://stabilant.com/appnt01.php

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

[Alan Bloom]

I am now leaning on going with a local company rather than Solar City. 
They quoted a higher price for a lower-power system, but because of some 
convoluted accounting it will actually end up costing me less.  And they 
are at least willing to talk about adding some common-mode chokes. 
Their system uses micro-inverters on each panel, which potentially 
should cause less interference because all the switching  electronics is 
localized with short connections.  Only 240 VAC 60 Hz comes out of the 
panels.


Alan N1AL


On 07/18/2016 06:49 PM, John Kaufmann wrote:

My advice on Solar City is to avoid them at all costs.  Their systems,
manufactured by SolarEdge, generate horrendous broadband RF noise

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

[John Kaufmann]

Sorry, I forgot to add my call to my post below.  It's W1FV (John).

 

From: John Kaufmann [mailto:jkaufm...@alum.mit.edu] 
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2016 9:50 PM
To: 'elecraft@mailman.qth.net'; 'n...@sonic.net'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

 

My advice on Solar City is to avoid them at all costs.  Their systems,
manufactured by SolarEdge, generate horrendous broadband RF noise.  One of
my neighbors installed a Solar City system on his house and ever since, I've
been plagued with extremely bad RF noise, especially on 6m, whenever I beam
in the direction of his house.  On 50 MHz, it raises my noise floor by 25
dB, which makes it impossible to work anything but very strong signals in
the direction of the neighbor's house.

 

The neighbor has been very cooperative in trying to work with Solar City to
get the problem fixed for me, but Solar City is technically incompetent or
not seriously interested, or both, in trying to eliminate the noise.  They
claimed the noise was originating in their optimizers, so they replaced them
with different units.  However, that barely made a dent in the noise.  I ran
some tests and determined that both the inverter and the optimizers are
generating noise.  At this point Solar City is trying to wash their hands of
the whole mess.

 

The neighbor leases the system from Solar City, so neither he nor I can
really make any modifications to the hardware, like adding chokes and the
like.  I would like to get the FCC on the case, but I seriously doubt that
will ever come to pass.

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[Elecraft] KX3+PX3+KXPA100 for K3(S)-100 Swap?

[Bruce Nourish]

Hi folks,

The KX2 has totally won me over for portable operations -- a fully-featured
HF radio I can fit easily in a carry-on, or my hiking pack. Now I'm
interested in switching my home station to a K3 or K3S.

I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has a 100W K3 or K3S, and would
like to trade for a KX3 with all the trimmings but the hand mic, plus some
money (via Paypal) in one direction or the other, depending on the details
of what you have.

Specifically, I have:

* KX3, factory assembled with the following options: KXAT3 (tuner), KXBC3
(general coverage), KXFL3 (filter).
- Also includes KXPD3 (paddles) and KX3-PCKT (full set of cables for
packet, RX I/Q, and accessories).
- I installed the KX3-2M-AT 2m module in the KX3 myself.
* PX3
* KXPA100, factory assembled; I subsequently installed the KXAT100 tuner
myself. Also includes KXPACBL, the cabling for the KX3.

No mods, excellent condition, everything works perfectly; I'd like your
K3/K3S to be about the same shape. If you were to buy my full setup new
from Elecraft, it would cost about $3,700; a new 100W K3S with no options
is $2,900, so our rigs are likely to be in the same ballpark.

I'm currently travelling, so I won't be able to make the trade until the
1st, regardless. I'm going to leave this invitation out here until then, to
see what interest I get. If none, I'll sell this gear for cash, and buy a
new K3S.

Thanks, everyone.

Bruce
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

[John Kaufmann]

My advice on Solar City is to avoid them at all costs.  Their systems,
manufactured by SolarEdge, generate horrendous broadband RF noise.  One of
my neighbors installed a Solar City system on his house and ever since, I've
been plagued with extremely bad RF noise, especially on 6m, whenever I beam
in the direction of his house.  On 50 MHz, it raises my noise floor by 25
dB, which makes it impossible to work anything but very strong signals in
the direction of the neighbor's house.

 

The neighbor has been very cooperative in trying to work with Solar City to
get the problem fixed for me, but Solar City is technically incompetent or
not seriously interested, or both, in trying to eliminate the noise.  They
claimed the noise was originating in their optimizers, so they replaced them
with different units.  However, that barely made a dent in the noise.  I ran
some tests and determined that both the inverter and the optimizers are
generating noise.  At this point Solar City is trying to wash their hands of
the whole mess.

 

The neighbor leases the system from Solar City, so neither he nor I can
really make any modifications to the hardware, like adding chokes and the
like.  I would like to get the FCC on the case, but I seriously doubt that
will ever come to pass.

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Re: [Elecraft] monitoring your own transmitted RTTY text

[Don Wilhelm]

Jamie,

I think we are talking about display on a computer screen rather than 
some function of the K3.


I would suggest that the best answer would come from the support forums 
of the software involved rather than from the K3 reflector.


If there is K3 interaction, then your friend should upgrade to the 
latest K3 firmware to keep up with the latest.  You did not state just 
how downlevel his firmware might be - that might be important.


Soapbox ON ---
I do not know why some owners are reluctant to download the latest 
firmware upgrades.  Beta versions may be a concern, but those which are 
promoted to production level are safe.  K3 Utility makes it a snap to 
download the latest production firmware, it is just a click of a few 
buttons.
If something like a computer glitch happens during the firmware upgrade, 
it is easily fixed by the "Force Firmware Download" instructions in the 
manual and the K3 Utility help file.


Soapbox OFF.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/16/2016 9:08 PM, Jamie WW3S wrote:

Trying to help a RTTY newbie setup his Microkeyer II to his K3, we had 
everything working in NAQP except whatever he sent was not visible in the digi 
window of MM+. We noticed it scrolled by in the microkeyer window, but a 
nusiance to try to keep your eyes on the screen and the keyer..I noticed a 
post about the recent K3 firmware, but Ed doesn’t have that installed in his 
K3.is there a setting or something we missed? With my microkeyer, I didn’t 
have to do anything, what I sent was automagically captured in the digi 
window.




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Re: [Elecraft] monitoring your own transmitted RTTY text

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

Is "Sound Loopback" set to "Int" on the MMTTY Config | Misc tab *and*
TX Port set to "Sound + COM-TxD (FSK)?  That should allow MMTTY to
monitor transmission regardless of the transceiver in use.

I'm not sure that all versions of the K3/K3S firmware echo "Monitor"
to the Line Out.  Is Monitor enabled (Mon level = 8 to 10 at least)
on the "newie's" K3?

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 7/16/2016 9:08 PM, Jamie WW3S wrote:

Trying to help a RTTY newbie setup his Microkeyer II to his K3, we had 
everything working in NAQP except whatever he sent was not visible in the digi 
window of MM+. We noticed it scrolled by in the microkeyer window, but a 
nusiance to try to keep your eyes on the screen and the keyer..I noticed a 
post about the recent K3 firmware, but Ed doesn’t have that installed in his 
K3.is there a setting or something we missed? With my microkeyer, I didn’t 
have to do anything, what I sent was automagically captured in the digi 
window.

73, Jamie WW3S
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[Elecraft] Powered Portable Speakers

[Ken G Kopp]

They're not "portable", but I have several pairs of COMspkrs from
West Mountain Radio that I'm totally pleased with.  One set is immediately
beside my KPA500 with no interference.

FWIW

73!

Ken - K0PP


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[Elecraft] monitoring your own transmitted RTTY text

[Jamie WW3S]

Trying to help a RTTY newbie setup his Microkeyer II to his K3, we had 
everything working in NAQP except whatever he sent was not visible in the digi 
window of MM+. We noticed it scrolled by in the microkeyer window, but a 
nusiance to try to keep your eyes on the screen and the keyer..I noticed a 
post about the recent K3 firmware, but Ed doesn’t have that installed in his 
K3.is there a setting or something we missed? With my microkeyer, I didn’t 
have to do anything, what I sent was automagically captured in the digi 
window.

73, Jamie WW3S
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Re: [Elecraft] Test serial-to-USB converter

[Rick WA6NHC]

A multitude of USB 'sins' can often be cured by a complete powering down 
of the computer, including pulling the power cord (on desktops) and 
removing the battery (laptops).  A soft reboot doesn't always reset the 
hardware but 10+ seconds of zero power to them usually does.  In this 
condition, the only power in the computer is the RTC battery.


All this test costs is time and most of the time, it works here.

Then make sure that the OS hasn't assigned it/them a new port value 
(com2 instead of com5).  You may have to use Device Manager in Windoze 
to force it to accepting the value you want.


This is why when I built the shack computer, I went back to using real 
serial ports, which are far more stable.


Good luck.

Rick nhc


On 7/18/2016 4:05 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Jan,

The best way to test a USB to serial converter is by substitution with 
a known good one, or by substitution of a known good working serial 
device connected to the questionable converter cable.


Yes, a power surge or a lightning event can damage serial interfaces 
as well as USB interfaces.


Since your USB ports on the computer seem to work, borrow a known good 
USB to serial converter and try it out - preferably one with an FTDI 
chipset.


If you have any other devices that use a serial COM port interface, 
see if they work with your USB to serial adapter - if so, the adapter 
is probably OK, but remember that in the event of a power surge, 
multiple failures are possible even though in normal troubleshooting 
we assume only a single failure.


You can test the USB to serial converter with a 'scope and an RS-232 
breakout box, but you have to know the proper RS-232 levels to 
understand what is happening.  A null modem loopback cable can be 
helpful if you have to proper driving software application for that 
testing.  I did that during my years of PC modem testing, but that was 
more than 30 years ago and the software ran under DOS - not helpful now.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/18/2016 6:36 PM, Jan Ditzian wrote:
I have a K3 that lost communication with my computer. It uses an 
Elecraft serial-to-USB converter and cable.  This probably happened 
during a known power surge.  I also lost communication to my MDS 
rotor, which uses a built-in USB cable, which I believe may also be a 
serial-to-USB arrangement.  I checked things out a bit, and I can 
tell that my USB ports all seem to work.  I also tried the K3 with 
another computer and was unable to communicate with it.  However, I 
also tried a direct serial-to-serial cable from the K3 to the first 
computer, which has a serial port, and was also unable to 
communicate.  I am now unsure of the location of the problem.  I am 
willing to go with whatever works.




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Re: [Elecraft] Test serial-to-USB converter

[Nr4c]

Call support for assistance. They will walk you through the tests. Have lid off 
and DVM handy. Very simple. 

I had a choke on the ground line go and it was very obvious with visual exam. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jul 18, 2016, at 6:36 PM, Jan Ditzian  wrote:
> 
> I have a K3 that lost communication with my computer.  It uses an Elecraft 
> serial-to-USB converter and cable.  This probably happened during a known 
> power surge.  I also lost communication to my MDS rotor, which uses a 
> built-in USB cable, which I believe may also be a serial-to-USB arrangement.  
> I checked things out a bit, and I can tell that my USB ports all seem to 
> work.  I also tried the K3 with another computer and was unable to 
> communicate with it.  However, I also tried a direct serial-to-serial cable 
> from the K3 to the first computer, which has a serial port, and was also 
> unable to communicate.  I am now unsure of the location of the problem.  I am 
> willing to go with whatever works.
> 
> Is there a way for me to test the serial-to-USB converter and cable by 
> itself, or otherwise determine whether it is working?
> 
> 73,
> Jan, KX2A
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[Elecraft] K3 PTT with DEMI Transverters

[Ken Kontor via Elecraft]

To: All that responded.

Thanks to all of you that responded to my request for information.

Much useful information was received (simple to complex schematics) from 
many respondents for auto switching PTT and TXin  / TXout lines to many 
Xvtrs.


I intend to proceed with one of the simpler circuits at this time, but 
will keep the other schematics on file in case I add more Xvtrs later.


Again thank you for all of your very useful comments and information.

73, Ken - W8KEN

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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 - Option Pre-Installed?

[Charles]

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Re: [Elecraft] Test serial-to-USB converter

[Kevin Cozens]

On 16-07-18 07:25 PM, Jan Ditzian wrote:

I do not have another FTDI cable, but it seems that this is the way to
go, and I can order one from Elecraft (since I understand that cheaper
alternatives my result in a cable that is incompatible with recent
drivers).


If you have some wire you can do a loopback test. If your cable ends in a 
9-pin connector you tie together pins 2 and 3, 4 and 6, and 7 and 8. See 
http://www.ni.com/tutorial/3450/en/


You can try using the Hyperterminal (IIRC) program if you are in Windows to 
test the serial port. I'm not sure what device an FTDI cable may appear to 
be in Windows as I mostly run Linux. If you are using Linux you can use minicom.


--
Cheers!

Kevin.

http://www.ve3syb.ca/   |"Nerds make the shiny things that distract
Owner of Elecraft K2 #2172  | the mouth-breathers, and that's why we're
| powerful!"
#include  | --Chris Hardwick
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Re: [Elecraft] Help sell me on the K3S

[Don Wilhelm]

Reuben,

I differ with you on the statement that the "K2 isn't exactly cut out 
for data modes".
If you activate the RTTY filter set and adjust the filters for that 
mode, then you have a good transceiver for data modes.  The RTTY mode 
allows you to set the compression (SSBC menu parameter) independently 
from the compression you use for SSB.


If this is an old K2 with old firmware, you may want to update at least 
the firmware - the RTTY mode was not available before the rev 2.xx 
firmware level.  Hold any button while powering on to see the firmware 
level briefly displayed.


Add the W3FPR Fixed Audio Output and you are all set (instead you can 
use the headphone output, but the level varies with the AF Gain 
control).  You do have to provide some switching between the microphone 
and the soundcard output externally to the K2 unless you are strictly 
data modes.  See my Data mode Switchbox article on my website 
www.w3fpr.com for some ideas about how to accomplish that.


The modern K2 is quite capable on soundcard data modes 'as-is', but a 
few external devices make it easier to use and switch from SSB to data 
modes.
If you have an older K2 (prior to SN3000), you may want to consider 
adding the A to B upgrade mods (and associated mod kits) to bring it up 
to date.


Do not overlook your K2, it is quite a capable transceiver for all modes.

The MAB board is not a data mode solution, that only provides for 
various microphone pinouts.


Yes, the K2 is a ham bands only transceiver.  If you are looking for a 
general coverage receiver for SWLing, the K2 is not going to do it for 
you.  The K3S with the KBPF3A option will provide general coverage receive.


But my suggestion is that unless you are vastly interested in SWLing, 
keep the K2 and use it until you get your license.  At this point, 
concentrate on your license rather than the radio.


73,
Don W3FPR



On 7/17/2016 8:36 PM, Reuben Popp wrote:

I hear ya... I was in the middle of studying for the general last.  The
tech is.. well, too easy (IMO), so I was going to sit for both tech and
general IF I can actually make it up to St. Louis before sunrise, or if I
can schmooze a few of the local VEs to do a one-off.

As to my K2, I thought about it, but even with the MAB board, the K2 isn't
exactly cut out for data modes.. at least, not very easily.  Unless I'm
completely missing something here.  AM BC bands are so-so in that you get
what's adjacent.  Not knocking my K2.. I _still_ love it, both for what it
is and the fact that it was one of the more fun projects I did while
working on my undergrad in CSc.


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Re: [Elecraft] Test serial-to-USB converter

[Cliff Frescura]

Another test you can try is to short pins 2 and 3 on the RS-232 side of the
converter (loop back) and then use a terminal program to see if characters
that you type are echoed back.

Some notes:

1. make sure handshaking is off/none
2. make sure local echo is off
3. data rate does not matter
4. there are several (free) terminal emulation programs out there.
HyperTerminal used to be bundled with XP but is no longer free.  However you
can download a trial version here
http://www.hilgraeve.com/hyperterminal-trial/ 

73,

Cliff K3LL/6

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2016 4:05 PM
To: Jan Ditzian; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Test serial-to-USB converter

Jan,

The best way to test a USB to serial converter is by substitution with a
known good one, or by substitution of a known good working serial device
connected to the questionable converter cable.

Yes, a power surge or a lightning event can damage serial interfaces as well
as USB interfaces.

Since your USB ports on the computer seem to work, borrow a known good USB
to serial converter and try it out - preferably one with an FTDI chipset.

If you have any other devices that use a serial COM port interface, see if
they work with your USB to serial adapter - if so, the adapter is probably
OK, but remember that in the event of a power surge, multiple failures are
possible even though in normal troubleshooting we assume only a single
failure.

You can test the USB to serial converter with a 'scope and an RS-232
breakout box, but you have to know the proper RS-232 levels to understand
what is happening.  A null modem loopback cable can be helpful if you have
to proper driving software application for that testing.  I did that during
my years of PC modem testing, but that was more than 30 years ago and the
software ran under DOS - not helpful now.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/18/2016 6:36 PM, Jan Ditzian wrote:
> I have a K3 that lost communication with my computer. It uses an 
> Elecraft serial-to-USB converter and cable.  This probably happened 
> during a known power surge.  I also lost communication to my MDS 
> rotor, which uses a built-in USB cable, which I believe may also be a 
> serial-to-USB arrangement.  I checked things out a bit, and I can tell 
> that my USB ports all seem to work.  I also tried the K3 with another 
> computer and was unable to communicate with it.  However, I also tried 
> a direct serial-to-serial cable from the K3 to the first computer, 
> which has a serial port, and was also unable to communicate.  I am now 
> unsure of the location of the problem.  I am willing to go with 
> whatever works.
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Test serial-to-USB converter

[Jan Ditzian]

Don,

Thank you for the suggestions.  I do not have another FTDI cable, but it 
seems that this is the way to go, and I can order one from Elecraft 
(since I understand that cheaper alternatives my result in a cable that 
is incompatible with recent drivers).  As for why the serial to serial 
did not work:  I also had a size adapter in there, so that may have been 
at fault.  The most straightforward test would be replacement.  If that 
works, I will contact MDS for a replacement converter as well.


Thank you,

Jan, KX2A


On 7/18/2016 7:05 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Jan,

The best way to test a USB to serial converter is by substitution with 
a known good one, or by substitution of a known good working serial 
device connected to the questionable converter cable.


Yes, a power surge or a lightning event can damage serial interfaces 
as well as USB interfaces.


Since your USB ports on the computer seem to work, borrow a known good 
USB to serial converter and try it out - preferably one with an FTDI 
chipset.


If you have any other devices that use a serial COM port interface, 
see if they work with your USB to serial adapter - if so, the adapter 
is probably OK, but remember that in the event of a power surge, 
multiple failures are possible even though in normal troubleshooting 
we assume only a single failure.


You can test the USB to serial converter with a 'scope and an RS-232 
breakout box, but you have to know the proper RS-232 levels to 
understand what is happening.  A null modem loopback cable can be 
helpful if you have to proper driving software application for that 
testing.  I did that during my years of PC modem testing, but that was 
more than 30 years ago and the software ran under DOS - not helpful now.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/18/2016 6:36 PM, Jan Ditzian wrote:
I have a K3 that lost communication with my computer. It uses an 
Elecraft serial-to-USB converter and cable.  This probably happened 
during a known power surge.  I also lost communication to my MDS 
rotor, which uses a built-in USB cable, which I believe may also be a 
serial-to-USB arrangement.  I checked things out a bit, and I can 
tell that my USB ports all seem to work.  I also tried the K3 with 
another computer and was unable to communicate with it.  However, I 
also tried a direct serial-to-serial cable from the K3 to the first 
computer, which has a serial port, and was also unable to 
communicate.  I am now unsure of the location of the problem.  I am 
willing to go with whatever works.






-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7688 / Virus Database: 4627/12638 - Release Date: 
07/18/16





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Re: [Elecraft] Test serial-to-USB converter

[Don Wilhelm]

Jan,

The best way to test a USB to serial converter is by substitution with a 
known good one, or by substitution of a known good working serial device 
connected to the questionable converter cable.


Yes, a power surge or a lightning event can damage serial interfaces as 
well as USB interfaces.


Since your USB ports on the computer seem to work, borrow a known good 
USB to serial converter and try it out - preferably one with an FTDI 
chipset.


If you have any other devices that use a serial COM port interface, see 
if they work with your USB to serial adapter - if so, the adapter is 
probably OK, but remember that in the event of a power surge, multiple 
failures are possible even though in normal troubleshooting we assume 
only a single failure.


You can test the USB to serial converter with a 'scope and an RS-232 
breakout box, but you have to know the proper RS-232 levels to 
understand what is happening.  A null modem loopback cable can be 
helpful if you have to proper driving software application for that 
testing.  I did that during my years of PC modem testing, but that was 
more than 30 years ago and the software ran under DOS - not helpful now.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/18/2016 6:36 PM, Jan Ditzian wrote:
I have a K3 that lost communication with my computer. It uses an 
Elecraft serial-to-USB converter and cable.  This probably happened 
during a known power surge.  I also lost communication to my MDS 
rotor, which uses a built-in USB cable, which I believe may also be a 
serial-to-USB arrangement.  I checked things out a bit, and I can tell 
that my USB ports all seem to work.  I also tried the K3 with another 
computer and was unable to communicate with it.  However, I also tried 
a direct serial-to-serial cable from the K3 to the first computer, 
which has a serial port, and was also unable to communicate.  I am now 
unsure of the location of the problem.  I am willing to go with 
whatever works.




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Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

[Alan Bloom]

On 07/18/2016 01:42 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

> Make sure they are quoting *everything.*  When I looked into solar a
> few years ago, the quote specifically excluded building permit(s).

Good point.  The contract states, "SolarCity will obtain any necessary 
permits, at SolarCity's cost."  So I think I'm covered there.


Alan N1AL
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[Elecraft] Test serial-to-USB converter

[Jan Ditzian]

I have a K3 that lost communication with my computer.  It uses an 
Elecraft serial-to-USB converter and cable.  This probably happened 
during a known power surge.  I also lost communication to my MDS rotor, 
which uses a built-in USB cable, which I believe may also be a 
serial-to-USB arrangement.  I checked things out a bit, and I can tell 
that my USB ports all seem to work.  I also tried the K3 with another 
computer and was unable to communicate with it.  However, I also tried a 
direct serial-to-serial cable from the K3 to the first computer, which 
has a serial port, and was also unable to communicate.  I am now unsure 
of the location of the problem.  I am willing to go with whatever works.


Is there a way for me to test the serial-to-USB converter and cable by 
itself, or otherwise determine whether it is working?


73,
Jan, KX2A
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 - Option Pre-Installed?

[Leroy Marion]

Its all ready to go when you get it, man is it ready!

Leroy AB7CE

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
MaverickNH
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2016 4:26 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KX2 - Option Pre-Installed?

I just put in a order for a KX2 with ATU & clock. Does Elecraft install them
or is that my job?

Bret/KC1CJN



--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX2-Option-Pre-Installed-tp7620358.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] KX2 - Option Pre-Installed?

[MaverickNH]

I just put in a order for a KX2 with ATU & clock. Does Elecraft install them
or is that my job?

Bret/KC1CJN



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX2-Option-Pre-Installed-tp7620358.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

[Josh Fiden]

Alan,

There's a local electrician here in Santa Rosa that I have used for a 
couple of projects. He is presently installing a new 800A 3P service for 
me. His prices are fair and I know he has done a number of PV 
installations. He's accommodating & I'm sure would be willing to deviate 
from a formulaic install to allow such things as wiring to be in conduit 
and winding CM chokes as specified by you.


He's a big fan of the Enphase microinverters. I don't have any specific 
info about their RFI performance, although they are HQ in Petaluma and I 
understand that their tech support people are accessible. He gave me an 
Enphase microinverters to dissect, so we can open it and see at least if 
it looks like the design includes expected filtering. For what it's 
worth, I see that it's externally labeled "complies with part 15" and 
"operation...may not cause harmful interference" so at least they 
acknowledge their responsibility!


I'm fairly certain that he would give us a tour of one of his installs 
in operation where we could sniff around and see for ourselves what sort 
of junk the Enphase inverters are producing. I would be very interested 
in the results. Let me know off list if interested and we can try to sked.


73,
Josh W6XU

On 7/18/2016 12:05 AM, Alan Bloom wrote:
I am contemplating having a solar photovoltaic power system installed 
on my roof.  There was an article by K1KP in April 2016 QST about the 
hoops he had to jump through to reduce the noise level from his system 
low enough that he could operate the HF bands.


My system should be less troublesome than his since it would not have 
power optimizers (basically switching power supplies) on each solar 
panel.  The panels have no electronics in them.  So I think all I need 
to worry about is the noise from the inverter (the device that 
converts DC from the panels to 240 VAC to connect to the electric 
company).


The inverter already includes an AC line filter, so hopefully that 
should reduce differential-mode noise into the power line.  So I think 
I'm talking about common-mode chokes on both sides of the inverter - 
the side that connects to the electric utility and the side that 
connects to the panels up on the roof.


Solar City is not interested in working with me on this - they just 
want to do a standard installation like they have done thousands of 
times before.  However, I see in their plans that they connect to the 
meter main breaker box with 3/4-inch EMT (electrometallic tubing) and 
also use 3/4 EMT for the solar panel connections.  You can buy snap-on 
ferrite chokes, FairRite P/N 0431177081, which have a 1-inch ID, so it 
should be possible to simply snap them on over the EMT.  These chokes 
are basically the same as the ones used in the article (type 31, 2" 
OD, 1" ID, 1.5" L) except that they are snap-on types.


My question is, how many chokes do I need?  K1KP used 30 (!) in series 
on the power-line side of his inverter.  That seems excessive.  The 
FairRite data sheet says the impedance is about 80 ohms at 2 MHz, 
rising to 240 ohms at 30 MHz.  I'm thinking a half-dozen or so of 
these on each side would be reasonable.  Does anyone have any 
experience with this kind of thing?


Alan N1AL


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

[Jim Brown]

Yep. Just like always, the devil is the details, and the large print 
giveth while the small print taketh away. :)


73, Jim K9YC

On Mon,7/18/2016 1:42 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

When I looked into solar a
few years ago, the quote specifically excluded building permit(s).
By the time the necessary PE reports, building permits, mortgage holder
sign-off, etc (regulatory crap) were added and the benefit of the
federal tax credit reduced because it is not a "refundable" credit,
the payback period was so long the ROI was not competitive with US
Government bonds! 



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

I figure it should save about $1000/year in electricity bills and
they are quoting me $17.5 k for the system. That's a 5.7% return on
investment, or 8.3% ROI after the federal tax credit.


Make sure they are quoting *everything.*  When I looked into solar a
few years ago, the quote specifically excluded building permit(s).
By the time the necessary PE reports, building permits, mortgage holder
sign-off, etc (regulatory crap) were added and the benefit of the
federal tax credit reduced because it is not a "refundable" credit,
the payback period was so long the ROI was not competitive with US
Government bonds!

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 7/18/2016 1:22 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:

Thanks for the pointer.  I was already aware that their "0% down" lease
arrangement is not a very good deal, so I am looking at buying the
system outright.  I figure it should save about $1000/year in
electricity bills and they are quoting me $17.5 k for the system. That's
a 5.7% return on investment, or 8.3% ROI after the federal tax credit.

http://energy.gov/savings/residential-renewable-energy-tax-credit

Alan N1AL


On 07/18/2016 05:54 AM, Wes Stewart wrote:

I would not be interested in working with Solar City.

http://watchdog.org/191409/congress-probes-solarcity/

On 7/18/2016 12:05 AM, Alan Bloom wrote:

I am contemplating having a solar photovoltaic power system installed
on my roof.



Solar City is not interested in working with me on this -



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[Elecraft] Kpod arrival

[Leroy Marion]

Kpod arrived today.  New K3S so one cable and it's working. Now to try to
program some macros.

 

Leroy   AB7CE

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[Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

[James Wilson]

Thanks (Dick - K8ZBT) for a - very- interesting discussion about your solar
system.

It's likely more of us will follow suit.

Jim - W4RKS

--

>I installed solar panels on my roof last year,

>and have had no problems with noise from them.

>On the subject of Solar City, I will agee with

>Wes to stay away from that company.

. . .
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

[RIchard Williams via Elecraft]

I installed solar panels on my roof last year, and have had no problems with 
noise from them. 

On the subject of Solar City, I will agee with Wes to stay away from that 
company.    Initially, I contacted Solar City for a bid, and have to say I was 
extremely disappointed with them.  First, they send out a young chick with a 
sales pitch to beat the band, and to "evaluate" an installation.  She came up 
with a plan of 31 panels, at a cost that I felt was on the high side (to say 
the least) and a 20 year loan with a higher interest rate than I expected!!!
She submitted her findings to the company, and several days later a 
'technician" arrived to check out the roof and verify what the chick told me 
they could do.  I went up on the roof with him, and he told me I wasn't suppose 
to be up there with him!!!  Told him it was my damn roof, and if I wanted to be 
up there, that was my prerogative.  He relented, but told me to stay out of the 
pictures he was going to take (fair enough - I'm not that photogenic anyway).   
 First thing he told me was a section of the roof where I wanted 3 panels was 
too steep for their employees to work on (scratch three panels).  When he was 
finished, he told me he would submit his plan to the engineering dept for their 
final approval.
The next thing I got was a call from the sales chick who came out the first 
time; sad news, scratch the 11 panels on the garage because (get this),  their 
"ace professional engineer" (must have graduated last in his class at Podunk 
Univ) said the roof on the garage would not hold the weight of the solar panels 
because  the additional weight of the Glen Martin Engineering 8 Foot  RT-832 
roof mounted tower weighing a whopping 32 POUNDS, the Yaesu G-5400 AZ- EL rotor 
(20 Pounds), the M2 2MCP14 (6 Pounds, M2 436CP30 (5 Pounds), and the weight of 
a 5 ft aluminum mast and 10 ft fiberglass cross boom (weight - at most 15 
Pounds - probably less).   So, he was telling me the additional 80 POUNDS on 
the roof was going to be too much weight on the roof!!!   O well, maybe it 
was the weight of the coax (that I didn't add in) was the final blow?
I told the chick exactly what I thought of there PE Dept; and the idiots must 
not have any idea of what was on the roof (80 lbs of aluminum!).   She did get 
back a few days later and told me the PE Dept agreed with my assessment (not 
they were a bunch of idiots, but at least the part where the roof would have no 
problem holding an additional 80 lbs).  I put them on hold until I looked at 
more estimates, and eventually cancelled out with them. 
I found a local company, and they had no problem with 30 panels (he dropped one 
because of too much shade), and no problem with the three on the one section of 
roof.So, I have solar (30 panels producing 8.25 KW) with micro inverters on 
each panel.  Am using SolarWorld SW275 panels and Enphase M250-60-2LL-S22 
inverters. 
Total price was just under $29,000 divided into two loans.  The first was 
$8,100 interest free loan for the first year; to be payed off with the income 
tax refund of 30% of the cost of the system.  The remain loan was a 12 year 
long just under $29,000 at 2.99%.  This is/was a much better deal than what 
Solar City offered!

Additionally, I had to move the Glen Martin tower to the edge of the garage to 
make room for all the panels;  and the guy helped me move the system to the 
place where it would not interfer with the installation of the panels!!
System has been in for a year, and producing 93% of what was calculated 
(calculations based on weather data).
Bottom line, I would check out local small companies that are not bound by all 
kinds of nit picky rules and restrictions, numerous levels of management and 
depts that all up the price they must charge to pay all the worker bees.
Dick, K8ZTT. 



  From: Wes Stewart 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, July 18, 2016 6:54 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system
   
I would not be interested in working with Solar City.

http://watchdog.org/191409/congress-probes-solarcity/

On 7/18/2016 12:05 AM, Alan Bloom wrote:
> I am contemplating having a solar photovoltaic power system installed on my 
> roof.

> Solar City is not interested in working with me on this -

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Re: [Elecraft] deoxit

[VE2EBK]

Hi Chris

 

I cleaned the connector and I put few drops of Stabilant 22A and the problem
seems resolved. My friend VE2OLM have a PCB design and assembly shop. He
need sometime to rework some boards and he need use that stuff to correct
the problem. Also use by NATO

 

http://stabilant.com/appnt01.php

 

GL

 

Dany VE2EBK

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] deoxit

[GRANT YOUNGMAN]

They do.  And it’s better because it’s also a lube.  I typically give pots a 
bit of of Deoxit, followed by the Fader Lube.  

It’s roughly the same as wearing a belt AND suspenders :-)

Grant NQ5T


> On Jul 18, 2016, at 1:54 PM, Richard Fjeld  wrote:
> 
> I think they also make a product for potentiometers called 'Fader lube' or 
> something similar.
> 
> Dick, n0ce
> 
> 
> On 7/17/2016 9:24 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>> I use the canned stuff on noisy potentiometers where I give them a shot
>> through one of the openings.
>> 
>> On any contacts, I have a 2 oz bottle with a needle applicator that puts
>> exactly what I want where I want it.
>> 
>> Servicing ancient radars and other shipboard gear with relays and many
>> connectors, that tiny 2 oz bottle has lasted me more than a decade!
>> 
>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>> 

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Re: [Elecraft] KDSP2 FOR THE K2 HAS BEEN DISCONTINUED

[Reuben Popp]

Hey Mark,

Thanks for that; it was me who noticed that.  Well, crap.  I do have the
audio filter module, but I was hoping to get the DSP module to replace it.
So much for that idea.

Thanks again and 73
Reuben

On Mon, Jul 18, 2016 at 1:21 PM, Mark E. Musick 
wrote:

> I sent an e-mail to sales about this after someone on the reflector pointed
> out the KDSP2 was no longer on the order page.
>
> Margaret replied that indeed it has been discontinued due to the
> unavailability of parts.
>
> She also said that she would inform the website maintenance folks to add a
> note back on the order page that it has been discontinued.
>
>
>
> Mark Musick, WB9CIF
>
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[Elecraft] KDSP2 FOR THE K2 HAS BEEN DISCONTINUED

[Mark E. Musick]

I sent an e-mail to sales about this after someone on the reflector pointed
out the KDSP2 was no longer on the order page.

Margaret replied that indeed it has been discontinued due to the
unavailability of parts.

She also said that she would inform the website maintenance folks to add a
note back on the order page that it has been discontinued.

 

Mark Musick, WB9CIF

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Re: [Elecraft] deoxit

[Richard Fjeld]

I think they also make a product for potentiometers called 'Fader lube' 
or something similar.


Dick, n0ce


On 7/17/2016 9:24 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

I use the canned stuff on noisy potentiometers where I give them a shot
through one of the openings.

On any contacts, I have a 2 oz bottle with a needle applicator that puts
exactly what I want where I want it.

Servicing ancient radars and other shipboard gear with relays and many
connectors, that tiny 2 oz bottle has lasted me more than a decade!

73, Ron AC7AC



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Re: [Elecraft] deoxit

[Richard Fjeld]

I think they also make a product for potentiometers called 'Fader lube' 
or something similar.


Dick, n0ce


On 7/17/2016 9:24 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

I use the canned stuff on noisy potentiometers where I give them a shot
through one of the openings.

On any contacts, I have a 2 oz bottle with a needle applicator that puts
exactly what I want where I want it.

Servicing ancient radars and other shipboard gear with relays and many
connectors, that tiny 2 oz bottle has lasted me more than a decade!

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Reuben
Popp
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2016 6:33 PM
To: Chris Meagher; Elecraft Reflector Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] deoxit

Hey Chris,

On my older hollowstate stuff, I usually spray a quantity into a small cup
and then use a q-tip to apply deoxit to areas in a controlled manner.  That
might not make as big a difference on newer equipment, but I was always told
it was a good idea around phenolic tube sockets.

GL and 73
Reuben

On Sun, Jul 17, 2016 at 8:28 PM, Chris Meagher  wrote:


Hi
When the can arrives, I plan to deoxit front panel connections on an
early
K3
which has tinned connectors.
This is to try to fix erratic VFO behaviour while tuning.
Any hints on how to do this effectively? thanks

Chris
VK2ACD
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May He protect each and every one of us. May He guide me in the days to come.
(From Franklin Delano Rosevelt's inaugural address 3/4/33)

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

[Alan Bloom]

Thanks for the pointer.  I was already aware that their "0% down" lease 
arrangement is not a very good deal, so I am looking at buying the 
system outright.  I figure it should save about $1000/year in 
electricity bills and they are quoting me $17.5 k for the system. 
That's a 5.7% return on investment, or 8.3% ROI after the federal tax 
credit.


http://energy.gov/savings/residential-renewable-energy-tax-credit

Alan N1AL


On 07/18/2016 05:54 AM, Wes Stewart wrote:

I would not be interested in working with Solar City.

http://watchdog.org/191409/congress-probes-solarcity/

On 7/18/2016 12:05 AM, Alan Bloom wrote:

I am contemplating having a solar photovoltaic power system installed
on my roof.



Solar City is not interested in working with me on this -



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power oddity

[Leroy Buller]

Thanks for all the information.   Yesterday, I did some research with
levels and Don was spot on.  I no longer have the issue when I drive the
audio to the 4th tick with the 5th flashing.   Full power out with no ramp
up.  Thanks all for setting me straight.

Lee. K0WA
.

On Jul 18, 2016 11:08 AM, "Ron D'Eau Claire"  wrote:

> An e-mail exchange with the engineers this morning clarified the ALC
> question. Let me correct my statement:
>
> ALC to an external amplifier starts at 8 bars.
>
> ALC internal to the K3/K3S starts at 5 bars. 5 to 7 bars indicates internal
> ALC active; a combination of AF leveling bu the DSP and drive reduction by
> the MCU.
>
> So, for fully linear (DATA A) operation stay below 5 bars as Don said (5th
> bar barely flashing). For normal voice operation 5 to 7 bars is typical.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Ron D'Eau Claire [mailto:r...@cobi.biz]
> Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2016 2:40 PM
> To: 'Leroy Buller'; 'donw...@embarqmail.com'
> Cc: 'elecraft@mailman.qth.net'
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 power oddity
>
> Lee - that is true with many radios. The K3/K3S was designed so that ALC
> action starts at 8 bars. More info is in the K3S Owner's manual under "Mic
> Gain and Compression Settings" on page 30.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> Leroy
> Buller
> Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2016 1:04 PM
> To: donw...@embarqmail.com
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power oddity
>
> Don...
>
> Thanks for the information. I will check that out.  I was told a long time
> ago by that elusive "someone" to keep the K3 linear that the ALC meter
> should just flicker.  Obviously, that was bogus advice.  I  will check this
> out yet today.
>
> Thanks
>
> Lee
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 17, 2016 at 8:19 AM, Don Wilhelm 
> wrote:
>
> > Lee (and others)
> >
> > It is normal for the power control circuits to be reset after a band
> > change.  That prevents overshoot if you are driving an amplifier.
> > Normally the power will come up to the requested power level in a
> > couple dot times on CW, or several syllables when operating voice.
> >
> > If the problem is on voice or data, make sure you are driving the
> > audio sufficiently.  If you are not driving the K3 audio hard enough,
> > power control will be "flaky".
> >
> > For Voice: With the compression set to zero, you should produce 5 to 7
> > bars on the ALC meter.  After adjusting the mic gain for that
> > indication, increase the compression as you choose - normally I would
> > suggest compression of less than 10dB.
> >
> > For RTTY, if you are using FSK D mode, the power control should be
> > automatic, but if you are using AFSK A (or other soundcard data
> > modes), then do check your audio drive - of course compression should
> > be set to zero, but the audio drive should drive the ALC meter to 4
> > bars solid with the 5th bar flashing.
> >
> > Note that the K3 controls power differently than other transceivers.
> > Ignore the advice on the internet to show no ALC and adjust the power
> > with the audio level.
> > With the K3 (and K3S, KX3, KX2), the "ALC" meter is a combination "VU"
> > meter and ALC meter.  The 1st 4 bars are there to help you adjust the
> > audio level.  The onset of ALC is indicated by the 5th bar.  So 4 bars
> > solid and 5th bar flickering is the "no ALC" point for the K3.
> > In data modes, adjust the power with the Power knob, not the audio level.
> >
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> >
> > On 7/17/2016 8:38 AM, Leroy Buller wrote:
> >
> >> Operated RTTY NAQP this weekend.   When changing bands, I noticed my
> power
> >> would drop to 40 watts or so.  After several transmissions, it would
> rise
> >> to 100 watts.  I don't think this is normal.   All antennas are matched.
> >> Comments?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
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> delivered to r...@cobi.biz
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Help sell me on the K3S

[Edward R Cole]

I would guess my experience is pretty much typical for most hams 
(with variance in details):
I started out building three tube regen receiver when I was 13 years 
old.  Cost me $19.95 in 1957 (took six months saving to accumulate 
that much).  I didn't have a solder iron so my Dad bought me a Wen 
solder gun for $5 for my 14th birthday.  I became a Novice in Nov. 58.


Could not pass 13wpm so upgraded to Tech. in 1959 and got a HQ100 a year later.
next was a Clegg Interceptor-B, then I built a SB110.  Oh a Sixer in 
between that.


Grad college and moved to CA in 68 and bought a IC-211 and 
Argonaut-505 in 1976.  Moved to AK in 1979 and bought a TS-180S.


Tentec-50, FT-840, FT-847 ... and finally in 2010 I upgraded to my K3/10.
That's quite a progression in receivers from three tube to K3 (only 
took 52 years).


But if you have the means get the best you can afford (now).



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power oddity

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

An e-mail exchange with the engineers this morning clarified the ALC
question. Let me correct my statement:

ALC to an external amplifier starts at 8 bars. 

ALC internal to the K3/K3S starts at 5 bars. 5 to 7 bars indicates internal
ALC active; a combination of AF leveling bu the DSP and drive reduction by
the MCU. 

So, for fully linear (DATA A) operation stay below 5 bars as Don said (5th
bar barely flashing). For normal voice operation 5 to 7 bars is typical. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [mailto:r...@cobi.biz] 
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2016 2:40 PM
To: 'Leroy Buller'; 'donw...@embarqmail.com'
Cc: 'elecraft@mailman.qth.net'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 power oddity

Lee - that is true with many radios. The K3/K3S was designed so that ALC
action starts at 8 bars. More info is in the K3S Owner's manual under "Mic
Gain and Compression Settings" on page 30. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Leroy
Buller
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2016 1:04 PM
To: donw...@embarqmail.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power oddity

Don...

Thanks for the information. I will check that out.  I was told a long time
ago by that elusive "someone" to keep the K3 linear that the ALC meter
should just flicker.  Obviously, that was bogus advice.  I  will check this
out yet today.

Thanks

Lee


On Sun, Jul 17, 2016 at 8:19 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Lee (and others)
>
> It is normal for the power control circuits to be reset after a band 
> change.  That prevents overshoot if you are driving an amplifier.
> Normally the power will come up to the requested power level in a 
> couple dot times on CW, or several syllables when operating voice.
>
> If the problem is on voice or data, make sure you are driving the 
> audio sufficiently.  If you are not driving the K3 audio hard enough, 
> power control will be "flaky".
>
> For Voice: With the compression set to zero, you should produce 5 to 7 
> bars on the ALC meter.  After adjusting the mic gain for that 
> indication, increase the compression as you choose - normally I would 
> suggest compression of less than 10dB.
>
> For RTTY, if you are using FSK D mode, the power control should be 
> automatic, but if you are using AFSK A (or other soundcard data 
> modes), then do check your audio drive - of course compression should 
> be set to zero, but the audio drive should drive the ALC meter to 4 
> bars solid with the 5th bar flashing.
>
> Note that the K3 controls power differently than other transceivers.
> Ignore the advice on the internet to show no ALC and adjust the power 
> with the audio level.
> With the K3 (and K3S, KX3, KX2), the "ALC" meter is a combination "VU"
> meter and ALC meter.  The 1st 4 bars are there to help you adjust the 
> audio level.  The onset of ALC is indicated by the 5th bar.  So 4 bars 
> solid and 5th bar flickering is the "no ALC" point for the K3.
> In data modes, adjust the power with the Power knob, not the audio level.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 7/17/2016 8:38 AM, Leroy Buller wrote:
>
>> Operated RTTY NAQP this weekend.   When changing bands, I noticed my
power
>> would drop to 40 watts or so.  After several transmissions, it would rise
>> to 100 watts.  I don't think this is normal.   All antennas are matched.
>> Comments?
>>
>>
>>
>
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[Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

[Howard Hoyt]

Alan,

I've worked with a large local PV installer to solve RFI problems, and I 
can vouch for the fact that it can be difficult to de-noise PV 
interters. the MPPT circuit is not analog and can turn the DC input 
lines into hash antennas, and as you stated, the inverter itself can put 
RFI on the 120/240 interconnect.


When I was in the market for PV equipment, I took a small battery 
operated emergency radio and visited several sites as well as showrooms 
of local vendors where they had demo systems.  The quietest PV install I 
found used the SMA 3000US inverter.  I just looked on-line, and the 
closest I could find to this model is now called the 3000TL 
(transformerless) so I cannot vouch for it's RFI characteristics.


I installed it using a combination of EMT and BX wiring to shield the 
input and output wiring, with twisted conductors in the conduit, adb BX 
having inherently twisted conductors.  I see zero increase in my noise 
level due to the PV system from my 160M OCF which goes right over the 
house, so I can definitely recommend that model SMA. They are not the 
cheapest inverters, but as a student of switching supply design, I know 
the least RFI-generating topologies are not the cheapest, and good 
transverse and common-mode filtering is not cheap to implement at the 
power levels a PV system can operate.


Contact me if you need any other info.

Howie - WA4PSC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PTT with DEMI Transverters

[Ken Arck]

Guess I can't attach a pic so here's a URL to it

http://www.ah6le.net/k3_key.jpg

Ken



At 07:46 AM 7/18/2016, Ken Arck wrote:

Hi Ken

I too use a DEMI xvtr and used the following circuit to exploit the 
K3's capability to set a logic bit on the ACC connector based on band


Ken




At 09:33 PM 7/17/2016, Ken Kontor via Elecraft wrote:

Gentlemen,

I am looking for a circuit that one of you K3 users may have 
designed to automatically switch the K3 PTT line between multible 
external transverters as the K3 is switched from band to band.


I presently use the K3 PTT line to key my 6m amp driven with 30 w from my K3.

I recently purchased a DEMI 2m HP transverter to drive my 2m 3CX800 
amp. The DEMI puts out 50 w with 1 mw of drive from the K3. The 
problem I have is when I key the DEMI Transverter from Pin 10 on 
the K3 15 Pin accessory socket, the K3 PTT out on the back of the 
K3 also Keys my 6m Amp even though the K3 is set to 2m. I need a 
circuit that will decode the BCD output from the K3 15 Pin 
connector to key the 6m Amp when I am on 6m and automatically 
switch the PTT line to the DEMI Transverter when I am on 2m. A 
manual switch would be very inconvenient for VHF contesting as one 
need to quickly QSY between bands with one station for multiple 
points. Also in the future I might add a 432 Transverter and would 
like to auto switch  the PTT for it also. I would only require 
three outputs as I would only switch between 6m, 2m and 70 cm.


I am a Mechanical Engineer with limited Electrical knowledge. I did 
build  a K2 and can breadboard stuff from a schematic and parts 
list, but I am not a circuit designer and have no knowledge of 
digital logic stuff other than I know it exists. I am in need of a 
designed and tested circuit that is know to work reliably. Given 
the circuit diagram and a parts list I could then reproduce it.


Your help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for any 
information you can provide.


73, Ken - W8KEN


PS: you may contact me off line at w8...@yahoo.com


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--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net
"We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"


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--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net
"We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PTT with DEMI Transverters

[Ken Arck]

Hi Ken

I too use a DEMI xvtr and used the following circuit to exploit the 
K3's capability to set a logic bit on the ACC connector based on band


Ken




At 09:33 PM 7/17/2016, Ken Kontor via Elecraft wrote:

Gentlemen,

I am looking for a circuit that one of you K3 users may have 
designed to automatically switch the K3 PTT line between multible 
external transverters as the K3 is switched from band to band.


I presently use the K3 PTT line to key my 6m amp driven with 30 w from my K3.

I recently purchased a DEMI 2m HP transverter to drive my 2m 3CX800 
amp. The DEMI puts out 50 w with 1 mw of drive from the K3. The 
problem I have is when I key the DEMI Transverter from Pin 10 on the 
K3 15 Pin accessory socket, the K3 PTT out on the back of the K3 
also Keys my 6m Amp even though the K3 is set to 2m. I need a 
circuit that will decode the BCD output from the K3 15 Pin connector 
to key the 6m Amp when I am on 6m and automatically switch the PTT 
line to the DEMI Transverter when I am on 2m. A manual switch would 
be very inconvenient for VHF contesting as one need to quickly QSY 
between bands with one station for multiple points. Also in the 
future I might add a 432 Transverter and would like to auto 
switch  the PTT for it also. I would only require three outputs as I 
would only switch between 6m, 2m and 70 cm.


I am a Mechanical Engineer with limited Electrical knowledge. I did 
build  a K2 and can breadboard stuff from a schematic and parts 
list, but I am not a circuit designer and have no knowledge of 
digital logic stuff other than I know it exists. I am in need of a 
designed and tested circuit that is know to work reliably. Given the 
circuit diagram and a parts list I could then reproduce it.


Your help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for any 
information you can provide.


73, Ken - W8KEN


PS: you may contact me off line at w8...@yahoo.com


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

[Clay Autery]

My local solar companies look at me like I'm an alien when I try to
explain to them what I want  They have ZERO actual knowledge... they
are building from a standard recipe...

I'm going to build my own...  Do NOT discount the AC conversion at the
panel approach...  it has MANY advantages, and probably the quietest
system you can build IF you do it right.

Jim, K9YC wrote a response to that article with some good info...

That article was basically what one guy did to band-aid a flawed design
and poorly chosen parts by a willing but uninformed vendor.

Follow the guidance in Jim's many papers and design the system
yourself...  Put it in yourself, and find a Master Electrician to
sign-off on your work and do the cross-connection to the grid.

73,

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Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises

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Re: [Elecraft] Help sell me on the K3S

[Clay Autery]

There's a cool little knob on the K3s that allows you to turn the power
DOWN to 10 W.  

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 7/17/2016 11:37 PM, Enzo Adrian-Reyes wrote:
> Was thinking of a K3S, although I have a KX3, I am quite surprised as to
> how well it performs, the radio is simply amazing, and I am only allowed
> 10W since I am on the foundation license.
>
> Thinking rather than the 100W amp spend the money on a K3S/10 and slowly
> upgrade.
>
> Regards
>
> On Mon, Jul 18, 2016 at 2:20 PM, Phil Wheeler  wrote:
>
>> I believe you have the KAF2, the audio filter. Likely it will do well
>> enough for you -- and it cannot be used with the KDPS2, it's one or the
>> other.
>>
>> It discontinued, may be due to some part obsolescence.
>>
>> 73, Phil W7OX
>>
>> On 7/17/16 7:26 PM, Reuben Popp wrote:
>>
>>> Interesting, but the KDSP2 appears to have disappeared on the order page.
>>> Did that part become discontinued for one reason or another?
>>>
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>> Message delivered to enzo.adrianre...@gmail.com
>>
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> Message delivered to caut...@montac.com

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

[KD6QZX]

Alan I have information on the SOLAR install as I have done this and have a big 
noise issue that I am combating still.  I think this email will just go to you 
please confirm and I will provide more information.
Scott AK6Q
 

On Monday, July 18, 2016 12:06 AM, Alan Bloom [via Elecraft] 
 wrote:
 

  I am contemplating having a solar photovoltaic power system installed on 
my roof.  There was an article by K1KP in April 2016 QST about the hoops 
he had to jump through to reduce the noise level from his system low 
enough that he could operate the HF bands.

My system should be less troublesome than his since it would not have 
power optimizers (basically switching power supplies) on each solar 
panel.  The panels have no electronics in them.  So I think all I need 
to worry about is the noise from the inverter (the device that converts 
DC from the panels to 240 VAC to connect to the electric company).

The inverter already includes an AC line filter, so hopefully that 
should reduce differential-mode noise into the power line.  So I think 
I'm talking about common-mode chokes on both sides of the inverter - the 
side that connects to the electric utility and the side that connects to 
the panels up on the roof.

Solar City is not interested in working with me on this - they just want 
to do a standard installation like they have done thousands of times 
before.  However, I see in their plans that they connect to the meter 
main breaker box with 3/4-inch EMT (electrometallic tubing) and also use 
3/4 EMT for the solar panel connections.  You can buy snap-on ferrite 
chokes, FairRite P/N 0431177081, which have a 1-inch ID, so it should be 
possible to simply snap them on over the EMT.  These chokes are 
basically the same as the ones used in the article (type 31, 2" OD, 1" 
ID, 1.5" L) except that they are snap-on types.

My question is, how many chokes do I need?  K1KP used 30 (!) in series 
on the power-line side of his inverter.  That seems excessive.  The 
FairRite data sheet says the impedance is about 80 ohms at 2 MHz, rising 
to 240 ohms at 30 MHz.  I'm thinking a half-dozen or so of these on each 
side would be reasonable.  Does anyone have any experience with this 
kind of thing?

Alan N1AL
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below: 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

[Wes Stewart]

I would not be interested in working with Solar City.

http://watchdog.org/191409/congress-probes-solarcity/

On 7/18/2016 12:05 AM, Alan Bloom wrote:

I am contemplating having a solar photovoltaic power system installed on my 
roof.



Solar City is not interested in working with me on this -


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[Elecraft] [FS][KX3] [VK]

[Glen Torr]

Hi All.

due to KX2 and KXPA100 this dear little gem is for sale:-

KX3 SN 2000 kit.
HM3 mic.
Dual roofing filter
KXAT3 Antenna tuner
KXBC3 clock/ battery charger.
2 meter transverter
XG50 sig. gen
KX3 PCK IT cable set
Gem Products ens pieces and lexan cover.

New = US 1820

price AuD 1200, you ship and inspect.

Cheers, Glen VK1FB
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[Elecraft] [FS] K3 VK, another price reduction

[Glen Torr]

Hi All,

For sale, K SN 2680.
Includes:-
General Coverge RX
700, 2.8K, 6.0 and 15K 8 pole filters.
100 Watt
ATU
Upgraded DSP Board
SS screws
K144XV internal 2 meter module.
HM2
Hi Stab. LO
Original owner, non smoker, little operating time. Built by professional
electronics technical officer.

AUD $2000 negotiable.

At this price demo and shipping are purchasers responsibility

prefer VK 1,2 or 3 but not a show stopper elsewhere.

KX2  and KXPA 1000 are now favourites.

Cheers

Glen Torr, VK1FB
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

[Jim Brown]

Alan,

There are TWO major noise sources in solar systems -- the charge 
regulator, which switches square waves, and the inverters.  If the solar 
vendor "will not work with you," run like hell in the other direction. 
This is my advice for ANY kind of purchase that involves a known 
engineering problem. System wiring is also a VERY big part of the 
engineering problem.


Study my tutorial, k9yc.com/RFI-Ham.pdf  and follow the guidelines for 
RG8 coax chokes for chokes that you add to circuits carrying DC circuits 
with noise on them. Snap-on ferrite cores are USELESS at HF unless you 
wind enough turns through them to place the parallel resonance where the 
noise is. Also study http://k9yc.com/KillingReceiveNoise.pdf  and see my 
comments on the QST article.


One of the most useful points in the QST article is the use of steel 
conduit for ALL of the wiring AND the use of twisted pair for the 
circuits carrying noisy DC and AC.  This cannot be emphasized enough.


I can't comment on the number of chokes used nor their design, because i 
don't know enough about engineering details of the system. One of the 
criticisms of the piece is the specific recommendations for chokes.


73, Jim K9YC


On Mon,7/18/2016 12:05 AM, Alan Bloom wrote:
I am contemplating having a solar photovoltaic power system installed 
on my roof.  There was an article by K1KP in April 2016 QST about the 
hoops he had to jump through to reduce the noise level from his system 
low enough that he could operate the HF bands.


My system should be less troublesome than his since it would not have 
power optimizers (basically switching power supplies) on each solar 
panel.  The panels have no electronics in them.  So I think all I need 
to worry about is the noise from the inverter (the device that 
converts DC from the panels to 240 VAC to connect to the electric 
company).


The inverter already includes an AC line filter, so hopefully that 
should reduce differential-mode noise into the power line.  So I think 
I'm talking about common-mode chokes on both sides of the inverter - 
the side that connects to the electric utility and the side that 
connects to the panels up on the roof.


Solar City is not interested in working with me on this - they just 
want to do a standard installation like they have done thousands of 
times before.  However, I see in their plans that they connect to the 
meter main breaker box with 3/4-inch EMT (electrometallic tubing) and 
also use 3/4 EMT for the solar panel connections.  You can buy snap-on 
ferrite chokes, FairRite P/N 0431177081, which have a 1-inch ID, so it 
should be possible to simply snap them on over the EMT.  These chokes 
are basically the same as the ones used in the article (type 31, 2" 
OD, 1" ID, 1.5" L) except that they are snap-on types.


My question is, how many chokes do I need?  K1KP used 30 (!) in series 
on the power-line side of his inverter.  That seems excessive.  The 
FairRite data sheet says the impedance is about 80 ohms at 2 MHz, 
rising to 240 ohms at 30 MHz.  I'm thinking a half-dozen or so of 
these on each side would be reasonable.  Does anyone have any 
experience with this kind of thing?


Alan N1AL
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[Elecraft] OT: RF noise in solar photovoltaic system

[Alan Bloom]

I am contemplating having a solar photovoltaic power system installed on 
my roof.  There was an article by K1KP in April 2016 QST about the hoops 
he had to jump through to reduce the noise level from his system low 
enough that he could operate the HF bands.


My system should be less troublesome than his since it would not have 
power optimizers (basically switching power supplies) on each solar 
panel.  The panels have no electronics in them.  So I think all I need 
to worry about is the noise from the inverter (the device that converts 
DC from the panels to 240 VAC to connect to the electric company).


The inverter already includes an AC line filter, so hopefully that 
should reduce differential-mode noise into the power line.  So I think 
I'm talking about common-mode chokes on both sides of the inverter - the 
side that connects to the electric utility and the side that connects to 
the panels up on the roof.


Solar City is not interested in working with me on this - they just want 
to do a standard installation like they have done thousands of times 
before.  However, I see in their plans that they connect to the meter 
main breaker box with 3/4-inch EMT (electrometallic tubing) and also use 
3/4 EMT for the solar panel connections.  You can buy snap-on ferrite 
chokes, FairRite P/N 0431177081, which have a 1-inch ID, so it should be 
possible to simply snap them on over the EMT.  These chokes are 
basically the same as the ones used in the article (type 31, 2" OD, 1" 
ID, 1.5" L) except that they are snap-on types.


My question is, how many chokes do I need?  K1KP used 30 (!) in series 
on the power-line side of his inverter.  That seems excessive.  The 
FairRite data sheet says the impedance is about 80 ohms at 2 MHz, rising 
to 240 ohms at 30 MHz.  I'm thinking a half-dozen or so of these on each 
side would be reasonable.  Does anyone have any experience with this 
kind of thing?


Alan N1AL
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