[Elecraft] 9:1 Balun

[gliderboy1955 via Elecraft]

What are the advantages/disadvantages of using a 9:1 balun v. using the 
switchable Elecraft balun at 1:1 or 4:1 or no balun at all when using a random 
wire portable?
Why 9:1?
Thanks 
73 Eric WD6DBM


Sent on my Samsung Galaxy S® 6.
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[Elecraft] KAT 3 Tuner

[Marvin Wheeler]

Will the KAT 3 tune an end fed wire of about 180 ft on 160 meters?

 

Thanks



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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 RS-232 problem

[David Orman]

The new beta firmware for the v2 ATU supports a configurable baud rate for
the loop controller. (Just released). I have a v2 ATU on the way but was
curious if you had tried the latest controller firmware located on Ciro
Mazzoni's website? It may resolve your issue if it was baud rate related.
Here's the release notes from the announcement:

New firmware release 3.17 BETA version for ATU 2.0

download available on the www.ciromazzoni.com

download
page

Changelog:
- baud rate setting in FULL AUTO MODE and SEMI AUTO MODE
- YAESU MODE 1: enables FULL and SEMI AUTO mode for YAESU transceiver with
a RS232 data port
- YAESU MODE 2: enables FULL and SEMI AUTO mode for YAESU transceiver with
a 8 pin data port (e.g. FT-857/FT-897)
- new ICOM CI-V addresses upgrading

On Nov 4, 2016 14:26, "Thomas Beltran"  wrote:

> Thanks Dick, John and Don - I plugged the Loop control directly to the KX3,
> and tried the different baud rates - the control only works on 4800.  In
> other reading, it seems that when the amp is on, everything defaults to
> 38400, so that is probably why the control box can not communicate.
> Perhaps
> by way of the utility codes, I can change the baud rate of the amp.  Thank
> you for helping me get closer to the solution.  Tom
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:donw...@embarqmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, November 04, 2016 8:11 AM
> To: tbelt...@earthlink.net; 'John Pitz'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 RS-232 problem
>
> Tom,
>
> If it were not for the addition of your loop control box, you would set
> both
> the KXPA100 and the KX3 to the 38.4 rate.
> But take a look at the baud rate requirements for your loop control box.
>   If it will handle 38.4k, then all is well, but if it requires a lesser
> baud rate, set both the KX3 and the KXPA100 to that baud rate.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 11/4/2016 10:34 AM, Thomas Beltran wrote:
> > Hello John and thanks.  Should I figure out what the baud rate of the
> > kx3 is (since that works) and then set the kxpa100 to match?
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> > John Pitz
> > Sent: Friday, November 04, 2016 7:23 AM
> > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 RS-232 problem
> >
> > It is likely a RS232 speed issue like Dick Dievendorff said.
> > Something else you may want to do is change the KX3 baud rate to match
> the
> KXPA100.  The
>
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Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"

[Barry]

Ron,
Mea culpa. You are right. I misused definitions. I use doublets. :-)

73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" 
To: "'Emory Schley'" 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 1/30/2017 9:54:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"

Yep, that is my favorite antenna for H.F. fed with open wire line and a 
balanced tuner.


 But I never refer to it as a "dipole" since the classic definition of 
a dipole means it is 1/2 wave long. What you describe is what us O.T.s 
call a "doublet" or "center fed wire".


73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
Emory Schley

Sent: Monday, January 30, 2017 5:38 PM
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"


I've found over the years that a McCoy Dipole works pretty well, often 
MUCH better than expected. What is a McCoy Dipole? Named after Lew 
McCoy, it follows his rules of construction. "Make it as long as you 
can, get it as high as you can, and feed it with ladder-line." No math, 
no measurements, no sweat. But a TUNER (transmatch) is definitely 
needed.


Emory Schley
N4LP


Kurt N. Sterba was correct. Textbook antennas aren't always possible, 
or even needed. If the situation is difficult, any radiator is better 
than none. However, hams in general are anal animals on the subject of 
antennas. My attitude has always been what's a db or two among friends, 
and quite often that is the number we are sweating. But, if you can't 
make it exactly like Kraus writes, get as close as you can and let your 
antenna tuner worry about the match and don't think about that extra 
db.


73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Fred Jensen" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 1/29/2017 6:10:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"


N6BT famously set up a "phased array" of 3 light bulbs in a V-beam
configuration and achieved WAC. He called it "The Illuminator." Kurt 
N.

Sterba [a regular in the old WorldRadio] is correct, the power will go
somewhere. My home antenna is a 136' wire strung along the wood fence
on electric fence insulators. Fed at the end, no overt counterpoise
[the outside of the coax shield handles that]. Not spec'd for 160 but
the KAT3 matches it fine. Invisible to HOA. NVIS on 160 and 80,
semi-NVIS on 40.

One thing to remember: feeding electrically long wires results in
complicated radiation patterns. The higher in frequency you go, the
more it's going to squirt your RF in different directions, not all of
which point at the DX. But, mine works very well considering it's 
about

1.8 m off the ground.

73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 1/29/2017 10:26 AM, Barry wrote:

Wayne,
 I know what you are saying and agree. In very simple terms, if you
can load it, it will radiate. That was a position that a writer with
the nom de plume of Kurt N Sterba too in a book he wrote. By the
physical law of conservation of energy, it all has to go somewhere.
And, that could be heat or radiation. In his book he claims to have
loaded a shopping cart and talked to people.

 Yes, you can do these things as long as you make good connections 
and

the tuners can handle it. All of the discussion is how to pick a
length that the tuner will accept. Once there, physics takes over. 
And

just to prove my point, and yours, I just worked the CQ 160 CW
contest. My antenna was a vertical 20 meter dipole center fed with
open wire. My radio is a K3s. I worked across this country, Canada,
and some DX with this 33' wire antenna that by all rights should have
been over 200'. I would have done better, but my local power company
added another handicap, line noise. Bottom line: Throw some wire up
and see if it can be loaded. If yes, go for it.

73,
Barry
K3NDM


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Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"

[Barry]

Bill,
There are many factors that could impact on his system 
effectiveness. The one that most comes to mind is height above ground. 
160 meters can be a real problem. If it is a horizontal, the average ham 
antenna height of 35-50 feet is very, very low electrically. Two things 
would happen here. First, a lot of energy is being lost to ground, and 
second, the radiated signal will be at high angle. Remember, a quarter 
wave on 160 meters is on the order of 135 feet which is the point where 
you get maximum radiation straight up. At lower heights, gains upward 
goes down and doesn't fill in toward the horizon. The means electrically 
low antennas are not effective.


The other area that comes to mind is the feed system itself. Not 
mentioned is whether open wire is being used. I would guess that the 
system SWR may be very high meaning losses on coax should be much 
greater than a 1 db. And, some tuners are not low loss when operated at 
their extremes.


I get away with what I do ONLY because my 20 meter vertical antenna 
is less effected by being low, I feed it with ladder line which has low 
loss even at absurdly high SWRs, and the tuner I use is designed to be 
used with antennas that are no where near optimum.


From what I did this weekend, I could surmise that my 33' radiator 
was radiating everything it received. If there is someone who really 
wants to do a math problem, I'll measure exactly the transmission line 
length, but I suspect that basically the about 60 feet of open wire 
helped. I would guess that the antenna reflected a very low impedance 
with a large reactive component, and the line length helped in 
translating the antenna impedance to something better handled by the 
tuner. Therefore, my losses are contained.



73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Bill Johnson" 
To: "'Barry'" ; "'Emory Schley'" 


Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Sent: 1/30/2017 9:42:35 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"

OH YES,  the headaches from looking at the formulas at this stage of 
the
game. A friend added two coils to the end of his 75 meter dipole for 
160.
He loads it but has no clue as to impedance and loading.  He tunes it 
for
160 but it is not effective.  The idea is to get loading into an 
efficient
radiator.  OK to accept less to operate, but great to be efficient.  SO 
if
it is working, sometimes leave it alone.  Erect another before taking 
down

or modifying what works.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From

Yep. A good antenna tuner and ladder line hides a whole lot of stuff.
Where would I be with my 40' X 110' yard if I really worried about 
being
exact. I have DXCC mixed, CW, and SSB, and I never ran over 100 Watts 
nor
had a real "resonant" antenna. And, I've forgotten all of the math I 
ever
had in college more than 50 years ago; I get a headache when I think of 
ever

having to do math again.

73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Emory Schley" 


I've found over the years that a McCoy Dipole works pretty well, often
MUCH better than expected. What is a McCoy Dipole? Named after Lew
McCoy, it follows his rules of construction. "Make it as long as you
can, get it as high as you can, and feed it with ladder-line." No 
math,

no measurements, no sweat. But a TUNER (transmatch) is definitely
needed.

Emory Schley
N4LP


Kurt N. Sterba was correct. Textbook antennas aren't always
possible, or even needed. If the situation is difficult, any radiator
is
better than none. However, hams in general are anal animals on the
subject of antennas. My attitude has always been what's a db or two
among friends, and quite often that is the number we are sweating. 
But,
if you can't make it exactly like Kraus writes, get as close as you 
can

and let your antenna tuner worry about the match and don't think about
that extra db.

73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Fred Jensen" 


N6BT famously set up a "phased array" of 3 light bulbs in a V-beam
configuration and achieved WAC. He called it "The Illuminator." Kurt
N. Sterba [a regular in the old WorldRadio] is correct, the power 
will

go somewhere. My home antenna is a 136' wire strung along the wood
fence on electric fence insulators. Fed at the end, no overt
counterpoise [the outside of the coax shield handles that]. Not 
spec'd

for 160 but the KAT3 matches it fine. Invisible to HOA. NVIS on 160
and 80, semi-NVIS on 40.

One thing to remember: feeding electrically long wires results in
complicated radiation patterns. The higher in frequency you go, the
more it's going to squirt your RF in different directions, not all of
which point at the DX. But, mine works very well considering it's
about 1.8 m off the ground.

73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW

On 1/29/2017 10:26 AM, Barry wrote:

Wayne,
  I know what you are saying and agree. In very 

[Elecraft] WTB: KFL3B-FM Crystal Filter for K3

[Russ]

Hi:


Does anyone have a KFL3B-FM 13 kHz FM  Filter that is excess to their needs?

I picked up a K144XV-K at a hamfest this last weekend..


Thanks,

Russ KD4JO



From: Russ
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 4:38 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Independent Headphone & Speaker Volume


Hi:



I currently feed a powered speaker with the constant line output of my K3. I 
can individually adjust that speaker's volume locally and the HP volume on the 
K3.



I'm contemplating the purchase of an SP-3.  As this speaker is unpowered, I 
will have to use the K3 power amp and am afraid that I will lose the individual 
volume control versatility I have.



If this is the case - would it be possible to repurpose the sub-rx (I don't 
have one) AF gain "ring" to control the speaker amp level.  My understanding is 
that the speaker out and HP out's are fed by separate DAC's.



Thanks, Russ KD4JO
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Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Yep, that is my favorite antenna for H.F. fed with open wire line and a 
balanced tuner. 

 But I never refer to it as a "dipole" since the classic definition of a dipole 
means it is 1/2 wave long. What you describe is what us O.T.s call a "doublet" 
or "center fed wire". 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Emory 
Schley
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2017 5:38 PM
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"


I've found over the years that a McCoy Dipole works pretty well, often MUCH 
better than expected. What is a McCoy Dipole? Named after Lew McCoy, it follows 
his rules of construction. "Make it as long as you can, get it as high as you 
can, and feed it with ladder-line." No math, no measurements, no sweat. But a 
TUNER (transmatch) is definitely needed.
 
Emory Schley
N4LP
 

Kurt N. Sterba was correct. Textbook antennas aren't always possible, or even 
needed. If the situation is difficult, any radiator is better than none. 
However, hams in general are anal animals on the subject of antennas. My 
attitude has always been what's a db or two among friends, and quite often that 
is the number we are sweating. But, if you can't make it exactly like Kraus 
writes, get as close as you can and let your antenna tuner worry about the 
match and don't think about that extra db.

73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Fred Jensen" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 1/29/2017 6:10:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"

>N6BT famously set up a "phased array" of 3 light bulbs in a V-beam 
>configuration and achieved WAC. He called it "The Illuminator." Kurt N. 
>Sterba [a regular in the old WorldRadio] is correct, the power will go 
>somewhere. My home antenna is a 136' wire strung along the wood fence 
>on electric fence insulators. Fed at the end, no overt counterpoise 
>[the outside of the coax shield handles that]. Not spec'd for 160 but 
>the KAT3 matches it fine. Invisible to HOA. NVIS on 160 and 80, 
>semi-NVIS on 40.
>
>One thing to remember: feeding electrically long wires results in 
>complicated radiation patterns. The higher in frequency you go, the 
>more it's going to squirt your RF in different directions, not all of 
>which point at the DX. But, mine works very well considering it's about 
>1.8 m off the ground.
>
>73,
>
>Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
>Sparks NV DM09dn
>Washoe County
>
>On 1/29/2017 10:26 AM, Barry wrote:
>>Wayne,
>> I know what you are saying and agree. In very simple terms, if you 
>>can load it, it will radiate. That was a position that a writer with 
>>the nom de plume of Kurt N Sterba too in a book he wrote. By the 
>>physical law of conservation of energy, it all has to go somewhere.
>>And, that could be heat or radiation. In his book he claims to have 
>>loaded a shopping cart and talked to people.
>>
>> Yes, you can do these things as long as you make good connections and 
>>the tuners can handle it. All of the discussion is how to pick a 
>>length that the tuner will accept. Once there, physics takes over. And 
>>just to prove my point, and yours, I just worked the CQ 160 CW 
>>contest. My antenna was a vertical 20 meter dipole center fed with 
>>open wire. My radio is a K3s. I worked across this country, Canada, 
>>and some DX with this 33' wire antenna that by all rights should have 
>>been over 200'. I would have done better, but my local power company 
>>added another handicap, line noise. Bottom line: Throw some wire up 
>>and see if it can be loaded. If yes, go for it.
>>
>>73,
>>Barry
>>K3NDM
>
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Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

Lots of dipole calculators on the net.  The total length of a center fed 
dipole is 1/2 wave, and that's the magic number.


If you are operating at 14.300 and you're trying to end-feed a wire that 
is 32.7 feet long (same length as a dipole, but *not* fed at the 
middle), the impedance will be very high.


Add 16.3 feet, and you won't be a half-wave, you'll be 3/4 wave long, 
and the impedance at the end should be well within the range of a good 
tuner.


Double the length, and you're at a full wave, and it's the same 
impedance (more or less) as trying to end-feed a half-wave.


Doesn't matter what you do, if your "randomly chosen" length turns out 
to be a multiple of one half wave on a frequency you want to use, then 
the stock tuner in most any radio is going to have trouble tuning it.


73 -- Lynn
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Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"

[Bill Johnson]

OH YES,  the headaches from looking at the formulas at this stage of the
game. A friend added two coils to the end of his 75 meter dipole for 160.
He loads it but has no clue as to impedance and loading.  He tunes it for
160 but it is not effective.  The idea is to get loading into an efficient
radiator.  OK to accept less to operate, but great to be efficient.  SO if
it is working, sometimes leave it alone.  Erect another before taking down
or modifying what works. 

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From

Yep. A good antenna tuner and ladder line hides a whole lot of stuff. 
Where would I be with my 40' X 110' yard if I really worried about being
exact. I have DXCC mixed, CW, and SSB, and I never ran over 100 Watts nor
had a real "resonant" antenna. And, I've forgotten all of the math I ever
had in college more than 50 years ago; I get a headache when I think of ever
having to do math again.

73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Emory Schley" 
>
>I've found over the years that a McCoy Dipole works pretty well, often 
>MUCH better than expected. What is a McCoy Dipole? Named after Lew 
>McCoy, it follows his rules of construction. "Make it as long as you 
>can, get it as high as you can, and feed it with ladder-line." No math, 
>no measurements, no sweat. But a TUNER (transmatch) is definitely 
>needed.
>
>Emory Schley
>N4LP
>
>
>Kurt N. Sterba was correct. Textbook antennas aren't always
>possible, or even needed. If the situation is difficult, any radiator 
>is
>better than none. However, hams in general are anal animals on the
>subject of antennas. My attitude has always been what's a db or two
>among friends, and quite often that is the number we are sweating. But,
>if you can't make it exactly like Kraus writes, get as close as you can
>and let your antenna tuner worry about the match and don't think about
>that extra db.
>
>73,
>Barry
>K3NDM
>
>-- Original Message --
>From: "Fred Jensen" 
>
>>N6BT famously set up a "phased array" of 3 light bulbs in a V-beam
>>configuration and achieved WAC. He called it "The Illuminator." Kurt
>>N. Sterba [a regular in the old WorldRadio] is correct, the power will
>>go somewhere. My home antenna is a 136' wire strung along the wood
>>fence on electric fence insulators. Fed at the end, no overt
>>counterpoise [the outside of the coax shield handles that]. Not spec'd
>>for 160 but the KAT3 matches it fine. Invisible to HOA. NVIS on 160
>>and 80, semi-NVIS on 40.
>>
>>One thing to remember: feeding electrically long wires results in
>>complicated radiation patterns. The higher in frequency you go, the
>>more it's going to squirt your RF in different directions, not all of
>>which point at the DX. But, mine works very well considering it's
>>about 1.8 m off the ground.
>>
>>73,
>>
>>Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
>>
>>On 1/29/2017 10:26 AM, Barry wrote:
>>>Wayne,
>>>  I know what you are saying and agree. In very simple terms, if you
>>>can load it, it will radiate. That was a position that a writer with
>>>the nom de plume of Kurt N Sterba too in a book he wrote. By the
>>>physical law of conservation of energy, it all has to go somewhere.
>>>And, that could be heat or radiation. In his book he claims to have
>>>loaded a shopping cart and talked to people.
>>>
>>>  Yes, you can do these things as long as you make good connections
>>>and the tuners can handle it. All of the discussion is how to pick a
>>>length that the tuner will accept. Once there, physics takes over. 
>>>And
>>>just to prove my point, and yours, I just worked the CQ 160 CW
>>>contest. My antenna was a vertical 20 meter dipole center fed with
>>>open wire. My radio is a K3s. I worked across this country, Canada,
>>>and some DX with this 33' wire antenna that by all rights should have
>>>been over 200'. I would have done better, but my local power company
>>>added another handicap, line noise. Bottom line: Throw some wire up
>>>and see if it can be loaded. If yes, go for it.
>>>
>>>73,
>>>Barry
>>>K3NDM
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"

[Barry]

Yep. A good antenna tuner and ladder line hides a whole lot of stuff. 
Where would I be with my 40' X 110' yard if I really worried about being 
exact. I have DXCC mixed, CW, and SSB, and I never ran over 100 Watts 
nor had a real "resonant" antenna. And, I've forgotten all of the math I 
ever had in college more than 50 years ago; I get a headache when I 
think of ever having to do math again.


73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Emory Schley" 
To:
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 1/30/2017 8:38:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"



I've found over the years that a McCoy Dipole works pretty well, often 
MUCH better than expected. What is a McCoy Dipole? Named after Lew 
McCoy, it follows his rules of construction. "Make it as long as you 
can, get it as high as you can, and feed it with ladder-line." No math, 
no measurements, no sweat. But a TUNER (transmatch) is definitely 
needed.


Emory Schley
N4LP


Kurt N. Sterba was correct. Textbook antennas aren't always
possible, or even needed. If the situation is difficult, any radiator 
is

better than none. However, hams in general are anal animals on the
subject of antennas. My attitude has always been what's a db or two
among friends, and quite often that is the number we are sweating. But,
if you can't make it exactly like Kraus writes, get as close as you can
and let your antenna tuner worry about the match and don't think about
that extra db.

73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Fred Jensen" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 1/29/2017 6:10:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"


N6BT famously set up a "phased array" of 3 light bulbs in a V-beam
configuration and achieved WAC. He called it "The Illuminator." Kurt
N. Sterba [a regular in the old WorldRadio] is correct, the power will
go somewhere. My home antenna is a 136' wire strung along the wood
fence on electric fence insulators. Fed at the end, no overt
counterpoise [the outside of the coax shield handles that]. Not spec'd
for 160 but the KAT3 matches it fine. Invisible to HOA. NVIS on 160
and 80, semi-NVIS on 40.

One thing to remember: feeding electrically long wires results in
complicated radiation patterns. The higher in frequency you go, the
more it's going to squirt your RF in different directions, not all of
which point at the DX. But, mine works very well considering it's
about 1.8 m off the ground.

73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 1/29/2017 10:26 AM, Barry wrote:

Wayne,
 I know what you are saying and agree. In very simple terms, if you
can load it, it will radiate. That was a position that a writer with
the nom de plume of Kurt N Sterba too in a book he wrote. By the
physical law of conservation of energy, it all has to go somewhere.
And, that could be heat or radiation. In his book he claims to have
loaded a shopping cart and talked to people.

 Yes, you can do these things as long as you make good connections
and the tuners can handle it. All of the discussion is how to pick a
length that the tuner will accept. Once there, physics takes over. 
And

just to prove my point, and yours, I just worked the CQ 160 CW
contest. My antenna was a vertical 20 meter dipole center fed with
open wire. My radio is a K3s. I worked across this country, Canada,
and some DX with this 33' wire antenna that by all rights should have
been over 200'. I would have done better, but my local power company
added another handicap, line noise. Bottom line: Throw some wire up
and see if it can be loaded. If yes, go for it.

73,
Barry
K3NDM


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Re: [Elecraft] Filters

[Bill Frantz]

Hi Mike and congratulations on the new-to-you K3.

When thinking about filters for the K3 or K3S remember that they 
are roofing filters. The DSP code also filters the signal, so 
unless you have a problem with nearby strong signals, the DSP 
filtering may do everything you need. For example, when I find 
very close CW signals, I may dial the DSP width down to 50 or 
100 Hz, which frequently eliminates the interference. On the 
other hand, during a contest when a local station is calling CQ 
400 Hz up from the station I'm trying to work, the 250 Hz filter 
is very helpful.


The FM filter can be used for AM operations.

My filter configuration is:

   13 KHz FM filter
   2.7 KHz 5 pole filter
   2.1 KHz 8 pole filter for SSB
   .25 KHz 8 pole filter for CW and digital operation

I just let the radio pick the right filter as I change the DSP 
bandwidth. It all works very nicely during contests and DX chasing.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 1/30/17 at 5:21 PM, mtruss8...@comcast.net (mtruss) wrote:


I have purchased a used  K3, serial number 3000 or so, it has been sent back
to Elecraft for updates etc  and returned to me working great so far. I
would like to update some things especially the roofing filters first so the
question I would like to ask is  Has anybody upgraded from the 2.7 five pole
filter to the 2.8 eight pole filter? I understand the 8 pole is a wider
filter with 3 more filtering  crystals , does it make any difference in
received audio? also could I use the fm filter for use in the 
am position. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

-
Bill Frantz| The first thing you need when  | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | using a perimeter defense is a | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | perimeter. | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032


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Re: [Elecraft] Filters

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

I would like to update some things especially the roofing filters
first so the question I would like to ask is Has anybody upgraded
from the 2.7 five pole filter to the 2.8 eight pole filter?


You will not notice any difference going from the 2.8 KHz to 2.7 KHz
filters.  The ultimate bandwidth is determined by the DSP in the
second (15 KHz) IF and the roofing filter skirts don't make much
difference once they're down 30 - 40 dB.

If you're into serious SSB contesting you may want to add either
the 2.1 KHz or 1.8 KHz roofing filter for that additional protection
from strong adjacent channel signals but in most cases the adjacent
channel garbage is often transmitter IMD (splatter) that is actually
"on channel" and can't be rejected by any filtering.

> also could I use the fm filter for use in the am position.

Yes, he FM filter (13 KHz) can be used for both AM transmit and
receive.  Note: even with the 13 KHz filter, the widest receive
bandwidth will be 4.2 KHz - not 6+ KHz - as the receiver audio
chain includes a sharp 4.25 KHz low pass "brick wall" audio filter
to limit artifacts from the digital to analog converter.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 1/30/2017 8:21 PM, mtruss wrote:

I have purchased a used  K3, serial number 3000 or so, it has been sent back
to Elecraft for updates etc  and returned to me working great so far. I
would like to update some things especially the roofing filters first so the
question I would like to ask is  Has anybody upgraded from the 2.7 five pole
filter to the 2.8 eight pole filter? I understand the 8 pole is a wider
filter with 3 more filtering  crystals , does it make any difference in
received audio? also could I use the fm filter for use in the am position.
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Mike  W8FLT



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Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"

[Emory Schley]

I've found over the years that a McCoy Dipole works pretty well, often MUCH 
better than expected. What is a McCoy Dipole? Named after Lew McCoy, it follows 
his rules of construction. "Make it as long as you can, get it as high as you 
can, and feed it with ladder-line." No math, no measurements, no sweat. But a 
TUNER (transmatch) is definitely needed.
 
Emory Schley
N4LP
 

Kurt N. Sterba was correct. Textbook antennas aren't always
possible, or even needed. If the situation is difficult, any radiator is
better than none. However, hams in general are anal animals on the
subject of antennas. My attitude has always been what's a db or two
among friends, and quite often that is the number we are sweating. But,
if you can't make it exactly like Kraus writes, get as close as you can
and let your antenna tuner worry about the match and don't think about
that extra db.

73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Fred Jensen" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 1/29/2017 6:10:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The "Kinda Random Antenna"

>N6BT famously set up a "phased array" of 3 light bulbs in a V-beam
>configuration and achieved WAC. He called it "The Illuminator." Kurt
>N. Sterba [a regular in the old WorldRadio] is correct, the power will
>go somewhere. My home antenna is a 136' wire strung along the wood
>fence on electric fence insulators. Fed at the end, no overt
>counterpoise [the outside of the coax shield handles that]. Not spec'd
>for 160 but the KAT3 matches it fine. Invisible to HOA. NVIS on 160
>and 80, semi-NVIS on 40.
>
>One thing to remember: feeding electrically long wires results in
>complicated radiation patterns. The higher in frequency you go, the
>more it's going to squirt your RF in different directions, not all of
>which point at the DX. But, mine works very well considering it's
>about 1.8 m off the ground.
>
>73,
>
>Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
>Sparks NV DM09dn
>Washoe County
>
>On 1/29/2017 10:26 AM, Barry wrote:
>>Wayne,
>> I know what you are saying and agree. In very simple terms, if you
>>can load it, it will radiate. That was a position that a writer with
>>the nom de plume of Kurt N Sterba too in a book he wrote. By the
>>physical law of conservation of energy, it all has to go somewhere.
>>And, that could be heat or radiation. In his book he claims to have
>>loaded a shopping cart and talked to people.
>>
>> Yes, you can do these things as long as you make good connections
>>and the tuners can handle it. All of the discussion is how to pick a
>>length that the tuner will accept. Once there, physics takes over. And
>>just to prove my point, and yours, I just worked the CQ 160 CW
>>contest. My antenna was a vertical 20 meter dipole center fed with
>>open wire. My radio is a K3s. I worked across this country, Canada,
>>and some DX with this 33' wire antenna that by all rights should have
>>been over 200'. I would have done better, but my local power company
>>added another handicap, line noise. Bottom line: Throw some wire up
>>and see if it can be loaded. If yes, go for it.
>>
>>73,
>>Barry
>>K3NDM
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Filters

[W0MU Mike Fatchett]

I would say stay with the 2.7.  I have used both.  I also have the 2.0 
ssb filters.  Unless you are a super serious SSB contester the 2.7 is 
probably fine.


W0MU


On 1/30/2017 6:21 PM, mtruss wrote:

I have purchased a used  K3, serial number 3000 or so, it has been sent back
to Elecraft for updates etc  and returned to me working great so far. I
would like to update some things especially the roofing filters first so the
question I would like to ask is  Has anybody upgraded from the 2.7 five pole
filter to the 2.8 eight pole filter? I understand the 8 pole is a wider
filter with 3 more filtering  crystals , does it make any difference in
received audio? also could I use the fm filter for use in the am position.
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Mike  W8FLT



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Re: [Elecraft] Filters

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

Unless you are doing SSB contesting, you will likely notice little 
difference between the 2.7kHz and the 2.8kHz filters.  The skirts on the 
2.8kHz filter are a bit steeper than for the 2.7kHz.
If you have the subRX and want to do diversity receive, it would benefit 
you to use the 2.8kHz filter in both the mainRX and the subRX.


Unless you have really critical ears, you will not notice a difference.

Yes, you can use the 13kHz filter for AM.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/30/2017 8:21 PM, mtruss wrote:

I have purchased a used  K3, serial number 3000 or so, it has been sent back
to Elecraft for updates etc  and returned to me working great so far. I
would like to update some things especially the roofing filters first so the
question I would like to ask is  Has anybody upgraded from the 2.7 five pole
filter to the 2.8 eight pole filter? I understand the 8 pole is a wider
filter with 3 more filtering  crystals , does it make any difference in
received audio? also could I use the fm filter for use in the am position.
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Mike  W8FLT



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Re: [Elecraft] Filters

[Jim Brown]

On Mon,1/30/2017 5:21 PM, mtruss wrote:

I have purchased a used  K3, serial number 3000 or so, it has been sent back
to Elecraft for updates etc  and returned to me working great so far. I
would like to update some things especially the roofing filters first so the
question I would like to ask is  Has anybody upgraded from the 2.7 five pole
filter to the 2.8 eight pole filter?


I have 2.8 kHz filters in the main receiver in both of my K3s. I like 
them because they're a bit flatter in the passband, which reduces the 
incidental AM when I'm transmitting RTTY. The steeper skirts also do a 
bit better in the presence of strong signals.

I understand the 8 pole is a wider
filter with 3 more filtering  crystals , does it make any difference in
received audio?


Not that you would notice.


also could I use the fm filter for use in the am position.


I'll let Don or Wayne answer that with respect to TX.  I don't TX AM, 
but I sometimes tune down to the AM BC band to verify the directivity of 
my RX antennas.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Help with dimensions please

[Dave AD6A]

Hi Alan,

I just got some new filters to fit in my K3s so I just took it apart.
I hope that the K3s and K3 panel sizes are the same - I don't know for sure.
Here are the measurements for the K3s anyway:

Left side panel - 3 hole centers for the 2m module are 3.245", 5.175", and 
4.775" from the front edge of the panel, and they are all 0.655" down from the 
top edge of the panel.

ANT3 BNC connector (2m ANT) hole center on fan panel is 0.460" from the left 
side of the fan panel (as you look at the rear of the rig) and 0.900" down from 
the top edge of the fan panel.

Cut-out in the top rail starts 0.425" from the outside surface of the left-hand 
end of the rail and ends at 3.375" from the same reference point.

Hope this helps!

Cheers,
Dave AD6A
(ex- G8INR)

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Alan. 
G4GNX
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2017 2:23 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] Help with dimensions please

I bought a K144XV internal 2 metre transverter for my K3, from another amateur 
in the US and unfortunately he’s sent me the wrong panels and stiffener and it 
just ain’t worth trying to return them from UK to USA for exchange. 
Unfortunately the cost of new parts from Elecraft is out of proportion with the 
purchase (expensive) so I want to modify the panels he’s sent. Unfortunately 
Elecraft don’t have a published template.

Can someone help me out with the placement of the 3 fixing holes for the K144XV 
in the LH side panel, the placement of the 2 metre Ant socket hole in the fan 
panel and possibly the start and end of the cut-out in the cross panel 
stiffener.

Obviously I need the measurements to be very accurate, but I could probably 
manage with the placement of just one of the holes in the side panel (I can 
work the rest out from the K144XV side panel) and the hole placement in the fan 
panel. I don’t need the actual size of the holes, just distances to centres.

Thanks in advance.

73,

Alan. G4GNX
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[Elecraft] Filters

[mtruss]

I have purchased a used  K3, serial number 3000 or so, it has been sent back
to Elecraft for updates etc  and returned to me working great so far. I
would like to update some things especially the roofing filters first so the
question I would like to ask is  Has anybody upgraded from the 2.7 five pole
filter to the 2.8 eight pole filter? I understand the 8 pole is a wider
filter with 3 more filtering  crystals , does it make any difference in
received audio? also could I use the fm filter for use in the am position. 
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks 
Mike  W8FLT 



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Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)

[Brian ve3bwp Pietrzyk]

Hi Wayne, thanks for this. I see the advantage now that I see the schematic for 
the BL2 (although the switch is not shown in the circuit). The common mode to 
differential mode isolation right at the BNC connector alone could help out. 

OK this is on my list to pick up when I see you next at Dayton.

> On Jan 30, 2017, at 1:54 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> This will vary from one installation to the next. 
> 
> When I'm not traveling ultralight, I carry a BL2 balun with me. The BL2 has a 
> 4:1 / 1:1 switch so you can try both positions. This will almost always 
> expand the range of bands you can cover with a given ad-hoc antenna. As 
> noted, the balun also tends to reduce RFI on the enclosure and mic.
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
> 
> On Jan 29, 2017, at 10:23 PM, Brian “VE3BWP” Pietrzyk  > wrote:
> 
>> Hi Wayne,
>> 
>> If we're connecting the random wire and counterpoise directly to the kx2 or 
>> Kx3 bnc via the binding post adapter is a 9:1 an improvement or is the tuner 
>> able to drive it directly just the same?
>> 
>> Thanks and Regards,
>> 
>> Brian ve3bwp
>> 
>>> Message: 17
>>> Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 18:52:26 -0800
>>> From: Wayne Burdick >
>>> To: Jeff Crilly >
>>> Cc: "k...@yahoogroups.com " 
>>> >,Elecraft Reflector
>>>>,Tom 
>>> McCulloch >
>>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] The "Kinda Random Antenna" (was: Random
>>>wirelengths for antennas)
>>> Message-ID: <856b5970-cb22-4a09-8e60-b8cc9e56a...@elecraft.com 
>>> >
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>>> 
>>> Have you tried this with a low-power balun mounted right at the antenna 
>>> jack? That will often help with RFI issues.
>>> 
>>> Wayne
>>> N6KR
>>> 
>>> On Jan 29, 2017, at 6:03 PM, Jeff Crilly >> > wrote:
>>> 
 So I tried this out...   using a ~26 foot wire ...
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 VFO link not working

[Bill Johnson]

I assign a pf key to link.  Another to diversity.  Works great.  Amazing to
work higher bands with my Small SteppIR and a Loop which are on opposite
sides of my house.  Into stereo, the difference is amazing.  Made me sit
back and wonder the amazing ability of the K3s.  Solid copy on the signal.
Just hope they hear me on the other end.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Guy
Olinger K2AV
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2017 5:48 PM
To: Stan AE7UT 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 VFO link not working

The "link" function has been moved to CONFIG: VFO LNK.

You can also use a macro with the "LN" command along with others to do a one
button execute on complex functions involving link.

The SUB button only has tap = SubRx on/off toggle, hold = Diversity toggle.
Also a tap which turns *off* SUB, also turns off Diversity. And a *hold* to
turn on diversity will turn on SUB if it was not on already. Pretty neat.

73, Guy K2AV

On Mon, Jan 30, 2017 at 6:09 PM, Stan AE7UT  wrote:

> I have a K3 with dual receivers.   I used to just push the sub button
> "short
> hold" and the VFOs would
> link.  Sub button "long hold" would activate the diversity receive.
>
> I have not used my K3 for over a year due to a move and that dang job 
> of mine.
> I just updated the firmware on the K3, P3, KAT500 and KPA500 system.
> Now when I do a short hold the diversity receieve comes on but not the 
> VFO link.
> I can go into the menu system and turn the link on but it turns off if 
> I switch bands or do almost anything else.
> Is this a new "feature" or have I inadvertently pushed a button that I 
> shouldn't have?
>
> No external logging programs are being used.
>
> Thanks for the help
>
> Stan AE7UT
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.
> nabble.com/K3-VFO-link-not-working-tp7626287.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __
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> k2av@gmail.com
>
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[Elecraft] KIO3 board needed

[Robert Benedict]

Apparently a nearby lightening strike took out my KIO3 board. Does 
anyone have one available?


Bob

KD8CGGH

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 VFO link not working

[Stan AE7UT]

TNX OM

Jeez fast reply!!!
I knew you braniacs would know.

73
Stan AE7UT



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 VFO link not working

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

The "link" function has been moved to CONFIG: VFO LNK.

You can also use a macro with the "LN" command along with others to do a
one button execute on complex functions involving link.

The SUB button only has tap = SubRx on/off toggle, hold = Diversity toggle.
Also a tap which turns *off* SUB, also turns off Diversity. And a *hold* to
turn on diversity will turn on SUB if it was not on already. Pretty neat.

73, Guy K2AV

On Mon, Jan 30, 2017 at 6:09 PM, Stan AE7UT  wrote:

> I have a K3 with dual receivers.   I used to just push the sub button
> "short
> hold" and the VFOs would
> link.  Sub button "long hold" would activate the diversity receive.
>
> I have not used my K3 for over a year due to a move and that dang job of
> mine.
> I just updated the firmware on the K3, P3, KAT500 and KPA500 system.
> Now when I do a short hold the diversity receieve comes on but not the VFO
> link.
> I can go into the menu system and turn the link on but it turns off if I
> switch bands or do almost anything else.
> Is this a new "feature" or have I inadvertently pushed a button that I
> shouldn't have?
>
> No external logging programs are being used.
>
> Thanks for the help
>
> Stan AE7UT
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.
> nabble.com/K3-VFO-link-not-working-tp7626287.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 VFO link not working

[Nr4c]

This changed a while ago Link is now a menu item. 

You don't have to LINK to use Diversity. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jan 30, 2017, at 6:09 PM, Stan AE7UT  wrote:
> 
> I have a K3 with dual receivers.   I used to just push the sub button "short
> hold" and the VFOs would
> link.  Sub button "long hold" would activate the diversity receive.
> 
> I have not used my K3 for over a year due to a move and that dang job of
> mine.  
> I just updated the firmware on the K3, P3, KAT500 and KPA500 system.  
> Now when I do a short hold the diversity receieve comes on but not the VFO
> link.  
> I can go into the menu system and turn the link on but it turns off if I
> switch bands or do almost anything else.
> Is this a new "feature" or have I inadvertently pushed a button that I
> shouldn't have?
> 
> No external logging programs are being used.  
> 
> Thanks for the help
> 
> Stan AE7UT
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-VFO-link-not-working-tp7626287.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] K3 VFO link not working

[Stan AE7UT]

I have a K3 with dual receivers.   I used to just push the sub button "short
hold" and the VFOs would
link.  Sub button "long hold" would activate the diversity receive.

I have not used my K3 for over a year due to a move and that dang job of
mine.  
I just updated the firmware on the K3, P3, KAT500 and KPA500 system.  
Now when I do a short hold the diversity receieve comes on but not the VFO
link.  
I can go into the menu system and turn the link on but it turns off if I
switch bands or do almost anything else.
Is this a new "feature" or have I inadvertently pushed a button that I
shouldn't have?

No external logging programs are being used.  

Thanks for the help

Stan AE7UT



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[Elecraft] Help with dimensions please

[Alan. G4GNX]

I bought a K144XV internal 2 metre transverter for my K3, from another amateur 
in the US and unfortunately he’s sent me the wrong panels and stiffener and it 
just ain’t worth trying to return them from UK to USA for exchange. 
Unfortunately the cost of new parts from Elecraft is out of proportion with the 
purchase (expensive) so I want to modify the panels he’s sent. Unfortunately 
Elecraft don’t have a published template.

Can someone help me out with the placement of the 3 fixing holes for the K144XV 
in the LH side panel, the placement of the 2 metre Ant socket hole in the fan 
panel and possibly the start and end of the cut-out in the cross panel 
stiffener.

Obviously I need the measurements to be very accurate, but I could probably 
manage with the placement of just one of the holes in the side panel (I can 
work the rest out from the K144XV side panel) and the hole placement in the fan 
panel. I don’t need the actual size of the holes, just distances to centres.

Thanks in advance.

73,

Alan. G4GNX
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Re: [Elecraft] Alaska Emergency Frequency 5.1675 MHz USB

[murphy]

Hi Bill - As it turns out I was doing something wrong and the KX2 *will*
tuneup and broadcast on the Alaska Emergency Frequency.  It is a
state/federal emergency net (FCC Part 97.401) for use only in/within 50
nautical miles of Alaska for emergency communications.  No ham license
needed.

73 Murphy KB3EOF

On 01/30/2017 01:53 PM, Nr4c wrote:
> Is this an Amateur frequency or a state/federal emergency net frequency for 
> emergencies?  If the radio thinks it's out-of-band it probably is. I don't 
> have my 60meter freq chart handy and if this is one of our frequencies  
> disregard all comments above. 
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
>
>
>> On Jan 30, 2017, at 10:14 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>>
>> Murphy,
>>
>> An email to k3supp...@elecraft.com should give you information on unlocking 
>> the transmit frequency.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>>> On 1/30/2017 9:17 AM, murphy wrote:
>>> I am planning a float trip down a remote Alaska river in the summer and
>>> would like to take my new KX2 along.  Alaska has an official emergency
>>> frequency:  5.1675 MHz USB but the KX2 cannot access it out of the box.
>>> I get a message something like "Band End".  Does anyone know if it is
>>> possible to activate this band on the KX2?  If so how?
>>>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 internal battery problem

[Nr4c]

Power supply voltage AT RADIO!!!



Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jan 30, 2017, at 11:14 AM, Jim Rhodes  wrote:
> 
> Yes I had done that already. Am wondering if there might be a problem on
> the other end of the wire. But it does sense the voltage of the batteries
> when turned on with external power. I removed the charger, then the
> unplugged and plugged the connector back in after checking that it showed
> proper voltage on both sets of contacts. Then reinstalled charger board.
> Made no difference. Guess I better contact Elecraft support.
> 
> On Mon, Jan 30, 2017 at 12:40 AM, Mark Petiford via Elecraft <
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:
> 
>> Re:  << My KX3 has suddenly decided that it doesn't want to turn on on
>> battery power...so I plugged it in, turned it on, went to menu to turn on
>> charger and got "BAT ERR" message >>
>> 
>> I had a similar problem several years ago, and the problem was that the
>> battery connector that connects the cell holder to the circuit board wasn't
>> fully inserted into the pins on the circuit board.  Open the KX3 up and
>> make sure the connector is fully mated.
>> 
>> That would make some sense.  The KXBC3 Charger Installation and Operating
>> instructions say the BAT ERR is due to, "Battery missing or battery voltage
>> out of range due to a fully charged pack or a defective or missing cell."
>> An intermittent connection would probably fit that description.
>> 
>> Mark,
>> KE6BB
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Jim K0XU
> j...@rhodesend.net
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Re: [Elecraft] Random wire lengths for antennas

[Ignacy]

KXAT3 has trouble matching high impedance antennas. No problem matching
anything using BL-1, BL-2, or any other 4:1 (or 9:1) balun although for odd
impedances the balun may have substantial losses. But I prefer balun than
antenna-tuner overheating. 

Probably all wire longer than 1/4 lambda radiate nearly all. Vertical above
5/8 lambda start generating high lobes. Horizontal add a few db because of
ground reflections but also lobes. 

Once I made an experiment trying a vertical with a few radials, a random
long wire with radials, or two random long wires as a semidipole, all fed by
TV ribbon.  In all cases, two random wires were the best, often by far,
across bands.  But setting up a portable vertical is easy,  one long wire is
hard, and 2 long wire is the hardest. 

In a nutshell, random wires are fine with exact length unimportant. If
tuning problems, use a small balun. 

Ignacy, NO9E



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[Elecraft] Mosfet PA

[Szabó István]

I am finalizing a MOSFET PA for my K3/10 using the control board from 
ARRL 2013 handbook was designed for the 250W PA. Can not find forum for 
this topic. Could you please help me if any available?


István, ha4zd


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Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)

[Wayne Burdick]

This will vary from one installation to the next. 

When I'm not traveling ultralight, I carry a BL2 balun with me. The BL2 has a 
4:1 / 1:1 switch so you can try both positions. This will almost always expand 
the range of bands you can cover with a given ad-hoc antenna. As noted, the 
balun also tends to reduce RFI on the enclosure and mic.

73,
Wayne
N6KR



On Jan 29, 2017, at 10:23 PM, Brian “VE3BWP” Pietrzyk  wrote:

> Hi Wayne,
> 
> If we're connecting the random wire and counterpoise directly to the kx2 or 
> Kx3 bnc via the binding post adapter is a 9:1 an improvement or is the tuner 
> able to drive it directly just the same?
> 
> Thanks and Regards,
> 
> Brian ve3bwp
> 
>> Message: 17
>> Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2017 18:52:26 -0800
>> From: Wayne Burdick 
>> To: Jeff Crilly 
>> Cc: "k...@yahoogroups.com" ,Elecraft Reflector
>>,Tom McCulloch 
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] The "Kinda Random Antenna" (was: Random
>>wirelengths for antennas)
>> Message-ID: <856b5970-cb22-4a09-8e60-b8cc9e56a...@elecraft.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>> 
>> Have you tried this with a low-power balun mounted right at the antenna 
>> jack? That will often help with RFI issues.
>> 
>> Wayne
>> N6KR
>> 
>> On Jan 29, 2017, at 6:03 PM, Jeff Crilly  wrote:
>> 
>>> So I tried this out...   using a ~26 foot wire ...

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Re: [Elecraft] Alaska Emergency Frequency 5.1675 MHz USB

[Nr4c]

Is this an Amateur frequency or a state/federal emergency net frequency for 
emergencies?  If the radio thinks it's out-of-band it probably is. I don't have 
my 60meter freq chart handy and if this is one of our frequencies  disregard 
all comments above. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jan 30, 2017, at 10:14 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Murphy,
> 
> An email to k3supp...@elecraft.com should give you information on unlocking 
> the transmit frequency.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 1/30/2017 9:17 AM, murphy wrote:
>> I am planning a float trip down a remote Alaska river in the summer and
>> would like to take my new KX2 along.  Alaska has an official emergency
>> frequency:  5.1675 MHz USB but the KX2 cannot access it out of the box.
>> I get a message something like "Band End".  Does anyone know if it is
>> possible to activate this band on the KX2?  If so how?
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 internal battery problem

[Mark via Elecraft]

Re:  <<  contact Elecraft support. >>
I agree.  Sounds like you checked the items that are accessible.

Mark
KE6BB



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 153, Issue 41

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

Re:  << The "real time" (sort of) clock is powered from the batteries if the rig
is in the OFF state, and not connected to external power.  I too have
had the internal cells drain as a result.  >>


What brand of cells are you using and how long does it take them to deplete?  
If the cells are healthy and are truly low self discharge NiMH cells, they 
should not deplete much over a period of a few weeks or even months, even 
taking real time clock current into account.


For example, my 4 year old Eneloop 2000 cells haven't been recharged for well 
over 8 months.  The radio has been sitting in my day pack, ready to go, for all 
of that time, with a weekly power on cycle using battery power to be sure 
everything is OK.  I just did that again this morning and the battery voltage 
readout says 9.4 volts.  I suspect most of that discharge was from those 
occasional power on cycles since I sometimes check it out by transmitting on 
several bands.


The real-time clock does, however, gain a lot of time during that period.  I 
can live with that.

Mark
KE6BB 

On Monday, January 30, 2017 6:09 AM, Dave B via Elecraft 
 wrote:
 

 The "real time" (sort of) clock is powered from the batteries if the rig
is in the OFF state, and not connected to external power.  I too have
had the internal cells drain as a result.

I now keep the rig connected to the shack DC supply, even when it is not
in use, just to prevent the demise of the cell's, but also of course
keeps the clock running.

Doesn’t need much current, probably a generic 14V wall wart would run
the clock, and allow periodic battery top up if deemed necessary.

73.

Dave G0WBX.


On 30/01/17 03:50, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
> Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 01:10:42 +
> From: Lee Thompson 
> To: Jim Rhodes , "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"
>     
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 internal battery problem
> Message-ID:
>     
> 
>     
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
>
> I?ve seen the Bat ERR message also, but the radio still functions and after a 
> few attempts I can get it to charge.
>
> Lee, WA8QFE
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>
>
>
> From: Jim Rhodes
> Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 5:53 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 internal battery problem
>
>
>
> My KX3 has suddenly decided that it doesn't want to turn on on battery
> power. It has been pretty much just sitting in a bag for the last few
> months but when I tried to turn it on it wouldn't, so I thought that maybe
> the batteries needed charging so I plugged it in, turned it on, went to
> menu to turn on charger and got "BAT ERR" message when I did. Set display
> for battery voltage and it says 10.4 volts. Anybody seen this before?
>
> --
> Jim K0XU
> j...@rhodesend.net

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Re: [Elecraft] Alaska Emergency Frequency 5.1675 MHz USB

[murphy]

Thanks Bob - I went back and checked againVOILA!  I must have made
an error somehow the first time.  The KX2 does indeed tune up and
transmit on the Alaska Emergency Frequency.  Thanks for the tip :-P

73 Murphy KB3EOF


On 01/30/2017 10:08 AM, Bob W7AVK wrote:
> Murphy - I can't speak for the KX2, but the other Elecraft rigs have
> the ability.  Check with Elecraft Service.
>
> Enjoy the trip.
>
> 73  Bob  W7AVK
>
>
> On 1/30/2017 6:17 AM, murphy wrote:
>> I am planning a float trip down a remote Alaska river in the summer and
>> would like to take my new KX2 along.  Alaska has an official emergency
>> frequency:  5.1675 MHz USB but the KX2 cannot access it out of the box.
>> I get a message something like "Band End".  Does anyone know if it is
>> possible to activate this band on the KX2?  If so how?
>>
>> 73,
>> murphy, kb3eof
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 internal battery problem

[Jim Rhodes]

The batteries were close to full charge, each cell measured 1.3 volts, give
or take a little. And the charging supply is set to 14.5 V. So the BAT ERR
may be from being full charged, or a bad connection somewhere. I pulled the
charger board, unplugged the connector, checked that both sets of contacts
showed proper voltage then plugged it back in, then plugged charger board
back in. Guess I should have included that in original post. Time to call
the guys at Elecraft I guess.

On Mon, Jan 30, 2017 at 7:37 AM, Bob N3MNT  wrote:

> You can get BAT ERR if the batteries are fully charged, overly discharged,
> have one or more bad cells, or the charge voltage is too low <13.8V
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.
> nabble.com/KX3-internal-battery-problem-tp7626247p7626268.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __
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-- 
Jim K0XU
j...@rhodesend.net
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 internal battery problem

[Jim Rhodes]

Yes I had done that already. Am wondering if there might be a problem on
the other end of the wire. But it does sense the voltage of the batteries
when turned on with external power. I removed the charger, then the
unplugged and plugged the connector back in after checking that it showed
proper voltage on both sets of contacts. Then reinstalled charger board.
Made no difference. Guess I better contact Elecraft support.

On Mon, Jan 30, 2017 at 12:40 AM, Mark Petiford via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> Re:  << My KX3 has suddenly decided that it doesn't want to turn on on
> battery power...so I plugged it in, turned it on, went to menu to turn on
> charger and got "BAT ERR" message >>
>
> I had a similar problem several years ago, and the problem was that the
> battery connector that connects the cell holder to the circuit board wasn't
> fully inserted into the pins on the circuit board.  Open the KX3 up and
> make sure the connector is fully mated.
>
> That would make some sense.  The KXBC3 Charger Installation and Operating
> instructions say the BAT ERR is due to, "Battery missing or battery voltage
> out of range due to a fully charged pack or a defective or missing cell."
> An intermittent connection would probably fit that description.
>
> Mark,
> KE6BB
>
>
>
>
>
>
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-- 
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j...@rhodesend.net
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[Elecraft] K3 mini on SSB

[Jim Cary]

Can I use the MH2 mike for phone operation or do I need to use a Heil or other 
headset?

Thanks,

Jim
W2SM/ZF2LC


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Re: [Elecraft] Alaska Emergency Frequency 5.1675 MHz USB

[Don Wilhelm]

Murphy,

An email to k3supp...@elecraft.com should give you information on 
unlocking the transmit frequency.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/30/2017 9:17 AM, murphy wrote:

I am planning a float trip down a remote Alaska river in the summer and
would like to take my new KX2 along.  Alaska has an official emergency
frequency:  5.1675 MHz USB but the KX2 cannot access it out of the box.
I get a message something like "Band End".  Does anyone know if it is
possible to activate this band on the KX2?  If so how?


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[Elecraft] Alaska Emergency Frequency 5.1675 MHz USB

[murphy]

I am planning a float trip down a remote Alaska river in the summer and
would like to take my new KX2 along.  Alaska has an official emergency
frequency:  5.1675 MHz USB but the KX2 cannot access it out of the box. 
I get a message something like "Band End".  Does anyone know if it is
possible to activate this band on the KX2?  If so how?

73,
murphy, kb3eof
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 internal battery problem

[Lee Thompson]

That’s what I was thinking, still had full function of the radio.

Lee, WA8QFE



Sent from Mail for Windows 10



From: Bob N3MNT
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2017 8:39 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 internal battery problem



You can get BAT ERR if the batteries are fully charged, overly discharged,
have one or more bad cells, or the charge voltage is too low <13.8V



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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-internal-battery-problem-tp7626247p7626268.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, KX3 internal battery problem

[Dave B via Elecraft]

Sorry forgot to change the subject on my last post re KX3 internal
battery problem

:-(

Dave G0WBX.


On 30/01/17 03:50, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
> Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 01:10:42 +
> From: Lee Thompson 
> To: Jim Rhodes , "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"
>   
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 internal battery problem
> Message-ID:
>   
> 
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
>
> I?ve seen the Bat ERR message also, but the radio still functions and after a 
> few attempts I can get it to charge.
>
> Lee, WA8QFE
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>
>
>
> From: Jim Rhodes
> Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 5:53 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 internal battery problem
>
>
>
> My KX3 has suddenly decided that it doesn't want to turn on on battery
> power. It has been pretty much just sitting in a bag for the last few
> months but when I tried to turn it on it wouldn't, so I thought that maybe
> the batteries needed charging so I plugged it in, turned it on, went to
> menu to turn on charger and got "BAT ERR" message when I did. Set display
> for battery voltage and it says 10.4 volts. Anybody seen this before?
>
> --
> Jim K0XU
> j...@rhodesend.net

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 153, Issue 41

[Dave B via Elecraft]

The "real time" (sort of) clock is powered from the batteries if the rig
is in the OFF state, and not connected to external power.  I too have
had the internal cells drain as a result.

I now keep the rig connected to the shack DC supply, even when it is not
in use, just to prevent the demise of the cell's, but also of course
keeps the clock running.

Doesn’t need much current, probably a generic 14V wall wart would run
the clock, and allow periodic battery top up if deemed necessary.

73.

Dave G0WBX.


On 30/01/17 03:50, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
> Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2017 01:10:42 +
> From: Lee Thompson 
> To: Jim Rhodes , "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"
>   
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 internal battery problem
> Message-ID:
>   
> 
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
>
> I?ve seen the Bat ERR message also, but the radio still functions and after a 
> few attempts I can get it to charge.
>
> Lee, WA8QFE
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>
>
>
> From: Jim Rhodes
> Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 5:53 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 internal battery problem
>
>
>
> My KX3 has suddenly decided that it doesn't want to turn on on battery
> power. It has been pretty much just sitting in a bag for the last few
> months but when I tried to turn it on it wouldn't, so I thought that maybe
> the batteries needed charging so I plugged it in, turned it on, went to
> menu to turn on charger and got "BAT ERR" message when I did. Set display
> for battery voltage and it says 10.4 volts. Anybody seen this before?
>
> --
> Jim K0XU
> j...@rhodesend.net

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 internal battery problem

[Bob N3MNT]

You can get BAT ERR if the batteries are fully charged, overly discharged,
have one or more bad cells, or the charge voltage is too low <13.8V



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http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-internal-battery-problem-tp7626247p7626268.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3 RemoteRig Issue - Remote radio won't power off

[Dave B via Elecraft]

On 28/01/17 01:12, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
> Message: 13
> Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2017 10:22:21 -0800
> From: Rick Tavan 
> To: Elecraft Reflector 
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 RemoteRig Issue - Remote radio won't power off
>   fully
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Recently I had to replace the router at my remote site. The replacement
> router is the same model as its predecessor (Cisco EA4500). I had good, but
> possibly imperfect, records of the port forwarding setup which I reproduced
> on the replacement router. Now, pressing POWER on the Control K3 turns the
> Remote K3 ON and operates correctly, but when I turn off the Control K3,
> the Remote K3 stays on. If I then tap the POWER button on the Remote K3,
> its screen goes solid amber with no LCD segments lit, but it does not fully
> power down. It also becomes catatonic, its own POWER button useless, but
> it's still responsive to power on from the Control K3. I have Restarted
> both RemoteRig boxes to no avail. I have confirmed that my DDNS real IP
> address is correct.
>
> In case it's material, here are the port forwards I have in place:
>
> RRC UPD Cmd 1
> RRC UDP Audio 11000
> RRC Web 5058
> RRC Telnet 5059
> RRC SIP 5088
>
> All port forwards are set the same for both internal and external use, both
> TCP and UDP protocols, LAN address of the RRC.
>
> Is something missing? Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> /Rick N6XI
Hi.

That's a lot of open ports.  Not using a VPN then?  (Doesn’t look like
the router itself can be an endpoint though, you'd need some PC or
Raspberry Pi at the remote site for that.)

Anyway.  Find out how to backup and restore the router's configuration
to a file on a PC, and make that backup.  Then the next time you have to
change it (due to lightning strike?)  You can just load the known
working config into the new router, and likely you are ready to go.  
(Page 55 of the user manual.)

Also.  With new out the box routers, check if there is updated firmware
available from the makers.  Often the things come out of the factory
(wherever) with very old/early firmware in, that has known issues. 
Cisco are no exception to that sadly.   (Linksys in disguise!)   Make
sure you get the correct firmware, that product has two versions of
hardware it seems.

I've not checked, but "OpenWRT" or "Tomato" alternative firmware's might
run on that device.  That can often give you "a lot" more functionality,
if you need it, such as VPN endpoints!

Oh, and make sure any UPnP functionality is not exposed to the www.  
grc.com/shieldsup will test that for you...  (If you connect via the new
router.)

73 and Enjoy.

Dave G0WBX.

(I do similar remote shack things using SSH tunnels home from my
travelling laptop, to dedicated Linux boxes in the shack.)
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