Re: [Elecraft] Feature request: Per antenna ATU mode memorization

[Nr4c]

Check the utilities for the various ATUs as I think some have this feature. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Apr 22, 2017, at 11:28 PM, David Orman  wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Would it be possible on the KXPA100/KX3 combo (and K3*) to allow the ATU
> mode to be memorized per antenna? I have a small transmitting loop that is
> remotely tuned on ANT1 so wish to run with the ATU in bypass, but ANT2 is a
> EFHW which I like to have the tuner active (manual mode) for. I am wary
> I'll bump tune while I'm on ANT1 even after clearing match memory, thus not
> alerting me to a bad STL tuning solution, so having it in bypass makes a
> lot more sense, but I do sometimes flip to ANT2 to quickly see if signal is
> better and don't like having to re-enable the ATU.
> 
> Thank you,
> David Orman / K5DJO
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

[kev...@coho.net]

Good Evening,

The sun has been tossing ejecta at us for the last few days. The 
ionosphere is bouncing all over the place in response.  So I guess the 
ionosphere is active but not necessarily good for comms.  I expect QSB 
and a number of types of noise.  However a lot of ions also may mean 
louder signals to drag out of the noise.  It is always fun to find out.



Please join us tomorrow on:

   14050 kHz at 2200z Sunday (3 PM PDT Sunday)
7045 kHz at z Monday (5 PM PDT Sunday)

73,
Kevin. KD5ONS

-

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[Elecraft] Feature request: Per antenna ATU mode memorization

[David Orman]

Hi,

Would it be possible on the KXPA100/KX3 combo (and K3*) to allow the ATU
mode to be memorized per antenna? I have a small transmitting loop that is
remotely tuned on ANT1 so wish to run with the ATU in bypass, but ANT2 is a
EFHW which I like to have the tuner active (manual mode) for. I am wary
I'll bump tune while I'm on ANT1 even after clearing match memory, thus not
alerting me to a bad STL tuning solution, so having it in bypass makes a
lot more sense, but I do sometimes flip to ANT2 to quickly see if signal is
better and don't like having to re-enable the ATU.

Thank you,
David Orman / K5DJO
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[Elecraft] Question -- BCD CABLE

[John Altman]

Hi list members,

Does anyone know of a source for a couple of BCD cables, linking a KPA500 to a 
Yaesu rig?

Please contact me OFF list at my call at Arrl.com

Thanks,

John

WA4AIP


Sent from my iPad PRO
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[Elecraft] New Product Idea - Rig Switchbox

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I would like to see a switch box that would allow connecting multiple Radios to 
the KPA X series of Elecraft amplifiers.


I have built up something here using coaxial relays to allow switching between 
my K3 and K2
into my KPA500 & KAT500 with the non active radio being terminated into a dummy 
load.

What would be better is a switchbox that also switches the ACC line, Key line 
etc. Preferably one
that would work with any combination of the K3, K3S, KX3, KX2, K2, and even 
non- Elecraft radios.
(I would also say one that switches at least 3 radios into the amplifier)
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Re: [Elecraft] KIO3

[Greg Beat]

The main IC for the KIO3 board is the RS-232 Level Converter, U1.
Part most likely to fail due to ESD / Static / External events.

Texas Instruments SN75C1405 (U1), 16-pin Surface Mount.
... a version of the MAX232 with ESD may cross reference.

Board photos
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/AF_Output_Mod_Rev_C.pdf

Sent from iPad Air
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 amplifier with built-in ATU, separate power supply

[Wes Stewart]

With respect to your first sentence, all I can say is, of course; is there 
anyone who thinks differently?


In a signal generator, where source match is important, there will probably be 
an attenuator, or at UHF and above an isolator (terminated circulator), that 
dissipates returned power. Otherwise, almost all amplifiers are mismatched to 
returned power and simply reflect it, as does any mismatched load.




On 4/21/2017 9:47 PM, John Perlick wrote:

You have to remember that the built in tuner matches the amp to the 
transmission line.  It does nothing to improve the SWR at the antenna or to 
protect your coax.

Well, it might incrementally improve the loss in the coax because the reflected 
wave from a high SWR antenna would not be the-reflected at the amp.  It would 
be fully absorbed into the amp which is well matched.

The really good thing that the internal tuner does is make life easier for the 
amp.  You will get more power out because the protection circuits don't have to 
protect the amp.  I'd be far more protective of my amp than my coax!

John Perlick
Aria Corporation
www.ariacorp.com


On Apr 21, 2017, at 2:29 PM, "elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net" 
 wrote:

KPA1500
amplifier with built-in ATU, separate power supply

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[Elecraft] KPA1500 questions

[gliderboy1955 via Elecraft]

1)  Can the KPA1500 be placed on top of the power supply for those of us 
without floor space?
2) What is the drive power required for full output?
3)  Can a KXPA100 be used to drive it thereby (gulp) giving us a 1500W KX2 or 
KX3 (or K2 with key line mod)?
4)  Will it cope with digital modes at full power for sustained operation (like 
the KPA500)?
My apologies if these questions have been answered, I have carefully gone over 
the available information.
73 and Holy Moly
Eric WD6DBM 


Sent on my Samsung Galaxy S® 6.
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Re: [Elecraft] Additional KPA1500 amplifier information

[Nr4c]

Why not?  Do other amps make any concessions for30 m?

My KPA500 puts out whatever power I set. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Apr 22, 2017, at 12:36 PM, GaryK9GS  wrote:
> 
> I was chatting last night with a friend in Canada and we were discussing the 
> new KPA1500.  He asked if the amp will work on 30m without modification.  
> Wayne?
> 
> 
> 73,
> Gary K9GS
>  Original message From: Hisashi T Fujinaka 
>  Date: 4/22/17  10:36 AM  (GMT-06:00) To: Wayne Burdick 
>  Cc: Elecraft Reflector  
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Additional KPA1500 amplifier information 
> Please put me on the list. (K7EMI)
> 
>> On Thu, 20 Apr 2017, Wayne Burdick wrote:
>> 
>> Updated FAQ on the KPA1500:
>> 
>> http://www.elecraft.com/KPA1500/KPA1500%20FAQ%20rev%20A1b.pdf
>> 
>> High-resolution front panel photo:
>> 
>> http://www.elecraft.com/KPA1500/KPA1500_cropped_hi.jpg
>> 
>> High-resolution rear panel photo:
>> 
>> http://www.elecraft.com/KPA1500/KPA1500_back_rgb_hi.jpg
>> 
>> KPA1500 web page:
>> 
>> http://www.elecraft.com/KPA1500/KPA1500.htm
>> 
>> * * *
>> 
>> Wayne
>> N6KR
>> 
>> 
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> 
> -- 
> Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com
> BSEE + BSChem + BAEnglish + MSCS + $2.50 = coffee
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Re: [Elecraft] Additional KPA1500 amplifier information

[Rick Tavan]

The KPA500 works fine on 30 and the auto-power-set feature with the K3
prevents accidentally running more than 200W on that band. I'm sure the
KPA1500 will work the same way.

/Rick N6XI

On Sat, Apr 22, 2017 at 9:49 AM,  wrote:

> I believe that 30m HP is allowed in most countries and 200 watts is legal
> in
> the US so I would be surprised if it was blocked out.
>
> John KK9A
>
>
> FromL Gary K9GS
> Sat Apr 22 12:36:10 EDT 2017
>
> I was chatting last night with a friend in Canada and we were discussing
> the
> new KPA1500.  He asked if the amp will work on 30m without modification.
> Wayne?
>
>
> 73,
> Gary K9GS
>
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>



-- 

Rick Tavan
Truckee, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 vs new amp

[Rick Tavan]

The KPA1500 power supply is a separate box that can be placed under the
desk in either a horizontal or vertical position. There is a handle on one
side and small, rubber feet on the right side. In my shack, the vertical
orientation will save scarce floor space. This is a delightful touch.

/Rick N6XI

On Sat, Apr 22, 2017 at 4:46 AM, Roy Koeppe  wrote:

>
> "I note there are feet on the side which implies handles.  This I haven't
> seen mentioned."   (etc.)
>
>
> Even a BC-610 had handles!
>
> 73.  RoyK6XK
>
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-- 

Rick Tavan
Truckee, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] Experiences using a portable HF loop

[S Smith]

 Tried posting w/ web interfacethat didn't work, so will try
hereplease excuse dups if that occurs.
---


I've had good results using LMR400 (outer conductor) and an air dielectric
tuning cap which will handle the 10-15W power of a KX3.  In some informal
testing comparing a 6 foot diameter loop and a 1/4 wave wire antenna (40
meters) using a car chassis as a counterpoise, the loop beat the wire by
5dB (NVIS path) (C/N on spectral display).

How efficient is the loop? I don't know - not as efficient as a 4" diameter
copper pipe 6 foot loop, but I do know it's relative ;)

A mobile whip is *very* inefficient.  The loop in this case is generally
*less* inefficient :)
You can make contacts on both.

K4HKX did a very detailed comparison of loop antennas with full dipoles and
other HF antennas.  He posted his results here:

qrz.com/db/k4hkx

Very interesting read.

I'm playing around with a mobile loop idea for 80 and 40 meters using the
KX3.  If it works as good as I think it will, it should give me about the
same performance as adding a KXPA100 - or not... that's why playing with
ham radio is fun.

73's
Steve
WD4SDC

On Fri, Apr 21, 2017 at 9:24 PM, Eddy Avila  wrote:

> Greetings all, I'm curious to hear from anyone using a portable HF
> magnetic loop. I've read the theory behind them so I'd like to hear your
> opinion about them? How efficient these antennas are, especially running
> qRP.
>
>
> Thanks all,
>
>
> 73
>
>
> ed
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Re: [Elecraft] Experiences using a portable HF loop

[Dan Presley]

Eddie-I have both the AlexLoop and the W4OP loop and enjoy using them both in 
the right situations. It takes some patience to tune but I’ve worked a fair 
amount of both domestic and dx with these loops. The AlexLoop is best on 20 and 
higher, and I use an inexpensive Vivitar tripod VIV-VPT-1250 and it works fine 
to elevate the loop, and is super lightweight. I use the loops on SOTA outings 
especially if there’s no easy way to put up a wire. They can be as effective as 
a vertical in the right environment and a lot easier to put up. They also 
exhibit some directivity an as they can be rotated to null noise or unwanted 
signals out.  One more nice trick in the antenna bag. 

Dan Presley  N7CQR
n7...@arrl.net


> On Apr 21, 2017, at 6:24 PM, Eddy Avila  wrote:
> 
> Greetings all, I'm curious to hear from anyone using a portable HF magnetic 
> loop. I've read the theory behind them so I'd like to hear your opinion about 
> them? How efficient these antennas are, especially running qRP.
> 
> 
> Thanks all,
> 
> 
> 73
> 
> 
> ed
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Re: [Elecraft] Pre-Order KPA1500?

[Nr4c]

Get onlist to be notified when they start taking orders. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Apr 22, 2017, at 8:43 AM, David F. Reed  wrote:
> 
> Sorry, I must have missed it somehow; is there a way we can pre-order or get 
> on the list for this exciting new product?
> 
> Thanks & 73 de Dave, W5SV
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet

[Erik Basilier]

Great idea, Bill! 
Something I might experiment with: how thick a block is required to make
sure the soft part is always touched by the next box, while the potentially
sharp parts cannot be touched.

73,
Erik K7TV

-Original Message-
From: Bill Johnson [mailto:k9...@live.com] 
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 3:03 PM
To: Clay Autery ; Erik Basilier ;
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet

How about a small block under the soft handle? The handle would then easily
protect another piece of equipment.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Clay
Autery
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 1:12 PM
To: Erik Basilier ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet

I have given a "proper" spacing/protecting engineering solution serious
thought on a number of occasions.

I will simply come up with something that meets the requirements when I get
to that bridge.

I'm more inclined to incorporate a spacing plan with a replacement of the
side panels or some way to protect the vulnerable front/rear panels.

73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 4/22/2017 11:33 AM, Erik Basilier wrote:
> Clay wrote: " I am perfectly happy with the stock side panel protectors.
> :-)"
>
> Let me be more specific on why additional side panel protectors might 
> be desired. The standard side panel feet work great when the boxes of 
> a K-line are placed in the order shown in the ad's. However, when you 
> go to a 2-radio configuration for SO2R, you probably want the most 
> often looked at, or touched, front panels close together in the 
> middle. The quick pace of SO2R operations really demands the very best 
> ergonomics that you can achieve. I currently have the two transceivers 
> in the middle for easy access to the knobs, with the P3's immediately to
the right and left of the two radios.
> That means on the right hand side, the boxes are in the standard "K-line"
> order, but on the left hand side, the transceiver handle is free to 
> scratch the neighboring P3. That is what actually happened, but it 
> could have been a speaker or other box getting scratched. With the two 
> transceivers side-by-side in the middle, the side feet of the 
> left-hand radio are positioned next to the handle of the right-hand 
> radio, but they are thinner than the handle, and there is the 
> potential for the handle to scratch the left-hand radio in spite of the
feet.
>
> I realize that most people are not interested in dual-radio 
> configurations, but some may have their own reasons for placing their 
> boxes in a unique order. It seems to me that the handles could be 
> redesigned so as to have no sharp edges that can cause scratches, or 
> even better, redesigned so at to incorporate rubber bumpers. Also, the 
> standard side panel feet could be made slightly thicker (i.e. thicker 
> than the handles) , and/or available as add-on options for those who 
> don't use the standard box ordering. Just an idea, and I am not 
> holding my breath. In the meantime, I may go with removable stick-on 
> feet, whether the common non-durable types or the better quality ones 
> suggested by Clay. (In his original suggestion it was not clear to me 
> that they were easily removable.) As to glue remaining after a cheap 
> rubber foot has fallen off, I have in the past been successful 
> removing it with denaturated alcohol, but the paint was left slightly 
> dull. That was on a "Fine Junk" box, and I would not be surprised it 
> the high quality Elecraft paint stands up much better. Goo Gone may be 
> better, but I think the dullness was caused by the glue reacting with the
inferior paint, not the alcohol, as surrounding areas touched by the alcohol
did not become dull.
>
> Not lacking solutions here, just in the mindset of discussing ideals. 
> My comment was triggered by the image showing the KPA1500 handle. It 
> was not intended to detract from the fact that the KPA1500 comes so 
> close to so many of our wishes for the ideal legal power amplifier, 
> including my own. I really believe the KPA1500 fills a need, and that 
> the price is reasonable for what it is. For me it is not immediately 
> affordable, but that is a separate issue. Maybe one day 
>
> 73,
> Erik K7TV
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Clay Autery [mailto:caut...@montac.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 1:14 AM
> To: Erik Basilier ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet - was KPA 500 vs New 1500 
> watt amp
>
> Never said I would use that solution  and it would not affect 
> resale as it is cleanly removable without tool or solvent and no 
> marring of the surface.
>
> I am perfectly happy with the stock side panel protectors.  :-)
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
>
>

Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet

[Don Wilhelm]

I would cut a few pieces of 1/4 inch plywood and cover it with black 
fabric (contact cement, etc.).  Just put the pieces between the gear 
that need contact protection.


I do not personally have the problem, so this is just a suggestion for 
those who do.  If you normally use the tilt stand, cut the plywood so it 
is shaped to sit on the desk/shelf and the top is angled the same as the 
top of the equipment.  I would think the top of the plywood separator 
should be a bit below the top of the equipment.

Just an idea, implementation is left to "the student".

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/22/2017 6:02 PM, Bill Johnson wrote:

How about a small block under the soft handle? The handle would then easily 
protect another piece of equipment.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Clay 
Autery
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 1:12 PM
To: Erik Basilier ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet

I have given a "proper" spacing/protecting engineering solution serious thought 
on a number of occasions.


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[Elecraft] For sale KX3 KXPD3 key

[Mike Weir]

I am selling the KXPD3 paddle complete with 3 sets of springs (firm springs  
installed) I have been using the Palm paddle with the KX3 from almost day one. 
I just can't seem to give it up. So I am clearing the shack of the KXPD3 
paddle. I am selling it for 60.00 U.S including shipping.

Mike Weir

VE3WDM
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[Elecraft] P3 TXMON for sale

[Mike Weir]

Good afternoon Elecrafters, I am selling my P3 TXMON 1.8-54MHz 200 watt it has 
been used for all of a week! I purchased it thinking it would be great to 
monitor my CW QRPp output. After the purchase I found out the unit will not 
measure RMS values. I then removed it from the P3 and held onto itfor 
what I don't know. It's up for sale now for 160.00 US shipping included.

Mike Weir

VE3WDM
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Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet

[Bill Johnson]

How about a small block under the soft handle? The handle would then easily 
protect another piece of equipment.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Clay 
Autery
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 1:12 PM
To: Erik Basilier ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet

I have given a "proper" spacing/protecting engineering solution serious thought 
on a number of occasions.

I will simply come up with something that meets the requirements when I get to 
that bridge.

I'm more inclined to incorporate a spacing plan with a replacement of the side 
panels or some way to protect the vulnerable front/rear panels.

73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 4/22/2017 11:33 AM, Erik Basilier wrote:
> Clay wrote: " I am perfectly happy with the stock side panel protectors.
> :-)"
>
> Let me be more specific on why additional side panel protectors might 
> be desired. The standard side panel feet work great when the boxes of 
> a K-line are placed in the order shown in the ad's. However, when you 
> go to a 2-radio configuration for SO2R, you probably want the most 
> often looked at, or touched, front panels close together in the 
> middle. The quick pace of SO2R operations really demands the very best 
> ergonomics that you can achieve. I currently have the two transceivers 
> in the middle for easy access to the knobs, with the P3's immediately to the 
> right and left of the two radios.
> That means on the right hand side, the boxes are in the standard "K-line"
> order, but on the left hand side, the transceiver handle is free to 
> scratch the neighboring P3. That is what actually happened, but it 
> could have been a speaker or other box getting scratched. With the two 
> transceivers side-by-side in the middle, the side feet of the 
> left-hand radio are positioned next to the handle of the right-hand 
> radio, but they are thinner than the handle, and there is the 
> potential for the handle to scratch the left-hand radio in spite of the feet.
>
> I realize that most people are not interested in dual-radio 
> configurations, but some may have their own reasons for placing their 
> boxes in a unique order. It seems to me that the handles could be 
> redesigned so as to have no sharp edges that can cause scratches, or 
> even better, redesigned so at to incorporate rubber bumpers. Also, the 
> standard side panel feet could be made slightly thicker (i.e. thicker 
> than the handles) , and/or available as add-on options for those who 
> don't use the standard box ordering. Just an idea, and I am not 
> holding my breath. In the meantime, I may go with removable stick-on 
> feet, whether the common non-durable types or the better quality ones 
> suggested by Clay. (In his original suggestion it was not clear to me 
> that they were easily removable.) As to glue remaining after a cheap 
> rubber foot has fallen off, I have in the past been successful 
> removing it with denaturated alcohol, but the paint was left slightly 
> dull. That was on a "Fine Junk" box, and I would not be surprised it 
> the high quality Elecraft paint stands up much better. Goo Gone may be 
> better, but I think the dullness was caused by the glue reacting with the 
> inferior paint, not the alcohol, as surrounding areas touched by the alcohol 
> did not become dull.
>
> Not lacking solutions here, just in the mindset of discussing ideals. 
> My comment was triggered by the image showing the KPA1500 handle. It 
> was not intended to detract from the fact that the KPA1500 comes so 
> close to so many of our wishes for the ideal legal power amplifier, 
> including my own. I really believe the KPA1500 fills a need, and that 
> the price is reasonable for what it is. For me it is not immediately 
> affordable, but that is a separate issue. Maybe one day 
>
> 73,
> Erik K7TV
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Clay Autery [mailto:caut...@montac.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 1:14 AM
> To: Erik Basilier ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet - was KPA 500 vs New 1500 
> watt amp
>
> Never said I would use that solution  and it would not affect 
> resale as it is cleanly removable without tool or solvent and no 
> marring of the surface.
>
> I am perfectly happy with the stock side panel protectors.  :-)
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 on AM?

[kg9hfr...@gmail.com]

Thanks all!
Frank KG9H

> On Apr 22, 2017, at 4:32 PM, Matt Zilmer  wrote:
> 
> MCU firmware rev 2.68 and later added AM mode for the KX2.  2.68 was released 
> on 23 Aug 2016.
> 
> 73,
> 
> matt W6NIA
> 
> KX2 Program Manager
> 
> 
> On 4/22/2017 1:29 PM, kg9hfr...@gmail.com wrote:
>> Scanning the data sheet on the KX2 I don’t see AM as a mode, thought that 
>> was added a few months back.
>> Does it have AM?
>> Frank KG9H
>> 
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> 
> -- 
> Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
> www.elecraft.com
> Office: 831-763-4211 x125
> Mobile: 909-730-6552
> [Shiraz]
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 on AM?

[Matt Zilmer]

MCU firmware rev 2.68 and later added AM mode for the KX2.  2.68 was 
released on 23 Aug 2016.


73,

matt W6NIA

KX2 Program Manager


On 4/22/2017 1:29 PM, kg9hfr...@gmail.com wrote:

Scanning the data sheet on the KX2 I don’t see AM as a mode, thought that was 
added a few months back.
Does it have AM?
Frank KG9H

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--
Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
www.elecraft.com
Office: 831-763-4211 x125
Mobile: 909-730-6552
[Shiraz]

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 amplifier with built-in ATU, separate power supply

[Alan. G4GNX]

This reminds me of a visit to the underground BBC World Service, back in the 
1980s.


There were three RCA transmitters for MF, two in use and one on standby. 
They were capable of output around 1+1/2 Megawatts.


The final stages were in Faraday Cages, but they still invited my son to 
wander round inside one, with a fluorescent tube lit up like Darth Vader!


I asked about tuning for low VSWR and they said they didn't bother much. 
What comes back simply goes up again for another try. :-)



73,

Alan. G4GNX

-Original Message- 
From: David Woolley

Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 10:06 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 amplifier with built-in ATU, separate power 
supply


..In real systems, most of the reflected power bounces 
straight back out

again when it hits the PA, to get another chance to be lost in the
feeder, or even radiated.  Of course this may cause the PA to run out of
volts, or gain, and clip or distort, or exceed the safe operating area,
and melt bond wires, or destroy the chip itself.

--
David Woolley Owner K2 06123

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 amplifier with built-in ATU, separate power supply

[David Woolley]

Real PA designs are very far from correctly reverse terminating the 
transmission line.  The maximum power transfer theorem is a complete red 
herring in this sort of situation.  For example, on the top of page 12 
of the third edition of the Art of Electronics, immediately after 
setting the maximum transfer theorem as an exercise, they point out that 
ordinary output stages are operated far from that condition.


The only case in which you might get reverse termination, is if there 
was a (typically ferrite) isolator.  In that case, the PA wouldn't care 
about the mismatch (at least not for an ideal isolator), but the 
terminating resistor in the isolator might glow red or white if you 
shorted or opened the output.  In practice they are normally microwave 
devices, but I suppose they may be used in professional HF systems.


In real systems, most of the reflected power bounces straight back out 
again when it hits the PA, to get another chance to be lost in the 
feeder, or even radiated.  Of course this may cause the PA to run out of 
volts, or gain, and clip or distort, or exceed the safe operating area, 
and melt bond wires, or destroy the chip itself.


--
David Woolley Owner K2 06123

On 22/04/17 05:47, John Perlick wrote:


Well, it might incrementally improve the loss in the coax because the reflected 
wave from a high SWR antenna would not be the-reflected at the amp.  It would 
be fully absorbed into the amp which is well matched.



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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 on AM?

[Mike Morrow]

>Scanning the data sheet on the KX2 I don’t see AM as a mode, thought
>that was added a few months back.
>Does it have AM?

Take a look at the firmware revision description for the KX2.  Also, look at 
the KX2 operating manual errata A-5.

The answer is yes.

Mike / KK5F



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[Elecraft] KX2 on AM?

[kg9hfr...@gmail.com]

Scanning the data sheet on the KX2 I don’t see AM as a mode, thought that was 
added a few months back.
Does it have AM?
Frank KG9H

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Re: [Elecraft] Additional KPA1500 amplifier information

[GaryK9GS]

Thank you Jim..I'll pass that on.


73,
Gary K9GS
 Original message From: Jim N7US  Date: 4/22/17  
11:44 AM  (GMT-06:00) To: 'Elecraft Reflector'  
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Additional KPA1500 amplifier information 
The KPA500 does work on 30M and even 5 MHz.

With the per-band setting in the radio, turning on the KPA500 and placing it in 
OPERATE, the K3 automatically reduces its power to 12W (or whatever) so the 
KPA500 runs at 200W (or whatever).  Switching the amplifier off or to standby 
and the K3 automatically goes back to 110W or whatever.

I've never used it on 5 MHz.

73, Jim N7US

-Original Message-


I was chatting last night with a friend in Canada and we were discussing the 
new KPA1500.  He asked if the amp will work on 30m without modification.  Wayne?


73,
Gary K9GS


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[Elecraft] KIO3

[w9qs]

Does anyone have a KIO3 left over from a KUSB upgrade to their K3? Mine is bad 
and I to find a replacement. 

Please contact me off list. 


Mike, W9QS 

w9qs at comcast dot net 

Thanks for the bandwidth 
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Re: [Elecraft] Experiences using a portable HF loop

[donovanf]

The electric field of a horizontally polarized antenna is parallel to 
the earth and it induces significant current into lossy earth if 
its less than about 0.1 wavelength high (14 feet on 40 meters). 


If you can install a horizontally polarized antenna 0.1 wavelengths 
high or higher, its efficiency is superior to field expedient 
vertically polarized antennas such as "magnetic" loops. This 
is why end-fed half wavelength (EFHW) horizontally polarized 
antennas are so popular with QRP back packers where efficiency 
is very important. 


On a mountaintop, a relatively low EFHW antenna can produce 
astounding QRP results. These affects are very easily observed 
(and measurable) with a 200 milliwatt WSPRlite transmitter and 
a USB battery that will easily fit on your pocket. 


On the other hand, vertically polarized antennas -- such as small 
"magnetic" loops -- produce significant low angle radiation 
even at very low heights. Unfortunately they also suffer from 
proximity to lossy earth. They really excel at a salt water beach 
(but you must be very close to salt water) or in a salt marsh (not a 
particularly pleasant place to take your family or girlfriend,,,). 


73 
Frank 
W3LPL 





- Original Message -

From: "GRANT YOUNGMAN"  
To: "Elecraft"  
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 5:36:33 PM 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Experiences using a portable HF loop 

A wire will not always outperform a loop. It depends among other things on 
whether or not you have a way to hang the wire at a reasonable height. 
Typically useless on the beach, for example, unless you pack a pole or two to 
get it up in the air, which means guys and all the rest. Doable, of course, but 
a lot of junk to tote around even if you have relatively compact extendable 
poles, plus the time to put it up. Poles/guys can be a problem when there are a 
lot of people around (beach/park/etc) or children who will be attracted to them 
like a magnet to trip over, etc.. You get the picture. It’s these kinds of 
situations where the loop shines. Stick it on a table or light tripod and 
you’re on the air in 5 minutes. 

With my KX3, depending on where I’m going and what the landscape looks like I 
use one or more of various wires, Buddipole hardware (light weight mast, shock 
cord whip, miscellaneous bits), or an AlexLoop. I’m currently waiting delivery 
on a W4OP loop. The best I can say about any of these options is that if it’s 
what you have, use it. They all work, sometimes surprisingly well. After a 
couple of years of this, I can’t say definitely which is always “best”. I”m 
getting too old and decrepit to still be much of a hiker, so I’m generally 
driving somewhere and walking a relatively short distance to a picnic table in 
a park, down to the neighborhood dock, or the beach, etc. 

The AlexLoop is very light to carry, but a downside is that it does NOT have 
any sort of tripod or table mount. You’re on your own jury rigging something 
out of PVC and clamps to hold it up, or conjuring something that can screw into 
a tripod, etc. (there are plans on the web). None of it is rocket science, but 
it isn’t just a standard part you can purchase. 

> Greetings all, I'm curious to hear from anyone using a portable HF magnetic 
> loop. I've read the theory behind them so I'd like to hear your opinion about 
> them? How efficient these antennas are, especially running qRP. 
> 
> 

Grant NQ5T 
K3 #2091, KX3 #8342 



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 APP CONNECTOR

[Ken G Kopp]

Thanks for responding, Matt!

73!

K0PP

On Apr 22, 2017 12:09, "Matt Zilmer"  wrote:

> Hi Ken,
>
> It uses the 75 amp APP. It's considerably larger than the 15-30-45 amp
> connectors used on our other equipment for 12VDC.
>
> 73,
>
> matt W6NIA
>
>
> On 4/22/2017 10:37 AM, Ken G Kopp wrote:
>
>> Perhaps I'm missing it somewhere in the literature ...
>>
>> Is the APP connector on the rear of the KPA1500 in some way different from
>> the 12v APP connector on the rear of the K3?  Size maybe?
>>
>> Surely they can't be accidentally interchanged? Elecraft simply wouldn't
>> make such an error.
>>
>> 73
>>
>> Ken - K0PP
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>
> --
> "A delay is better than a disaster."
> -- unknonwn
>
> Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
> [Shiraz]
>
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 APP CONNECTOR

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

It appears to be the larger (75 amp?) size



  From: Ken G Kopp 
 To: Elecraft  
 Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 1:57 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 APP CONNECTOR
   
Perhaps I'm missing it somewhere in the literature ...

Is the APP connector on the rear of the KPA1500 in some way different from
the 12v APP connector on the rear of the K3?  Size maybe?

Surely they can't be accidentally interchanged? Elecraft simply wouldn't
make such an error.

73

Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet

[Clay Autery]

I have given a "proper" spacing/protecting engineering solution serious
thought on a number of occasions.

I will simply come up with something that meets the requirements when I
get to that bridge.

I'm more inclined to incorporate a spacing plan with a replacement of
the side panels or some way to protect the vulnerable front/rear panels.

73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 4/22/2017 11:33 AM, Erik Basilier wrote:
> Clay wrote: " I am perfectly happy with the stock side panel protectors.
> :-)"
>
> Let me be more specific on why additional side panel protectors might be
> desired. The standard side panel feet work great when the boxes of a K-line
> are placed in the order shown in the ad's. However, when you go to a 2-radio
> configuration for SO2R, you probably want the most often looked at, or
> touched, front panels close together in the middle. The quick pace of SO2R
> operations really demands the very best ergonomics that you can achieve. I
> currently have the two transceivers in the middle for easy access to the
> knobs, with the P3's immediately to the right and left of the two radios.
> That means on the right hand side, the boxes are in the standard "K-line"
> order, but on the left hand side, the transceiver handle is free to scratch
> the neighboring P3. That is what actually happened, but it could have been a
> speaker or other box getting scratched. With the two transceivers
> side-by-side in the middle, the side feet of the left-hand radio are
> positioned next to the handle of the right-hand radio, but they are thinner
> than the handle, and there is the potential for the handle to scratch the
> left-hand radio in spite of the feet. 
>
> I realize that most people are not interested in dual-radio configurations,
> but some may have their own reasons for placing their boxes in a unique
> order. It seems to me that the handles could be redesigned so as to have no
> sharp edges that can cause scratches, or even better, redesigned so at to
> incorporate rubber bumpers. Also, the standard side panel feet could be made
> slightly thicker (i.e. thicker than the handles) , and/or available as
> add-on options for those who don't use the standard box ordering. Just an
> idea, and I am not holding my breath. In the meantime, I may go with
> removable stick-on feet, whether the common non-durable types or the better
> quality ones suggested by Clay. (In his original suggestion it was not clear
> to me that they were easily removable.) As to glue remaining after a cheap
> rubber foot has fallen off, I have in the past been successful removing it
> with denaturated alcohol, but the paint was left slightly dull. That was on
> a "Fine Junk" box, and I would not be surprised it the high quality Elecraft
> paint stands up much better. Goo Gone may be better, but I think the
> dullness was caused by the glue reacting with the inferior paint, not the
> alcohol, as surrounding areas touched by the alcohol did not become dull. 
>
> Not lacking solutions here, just in the mindset of discussing ideals. My
> comment was triggered by the image showing the KPA1500 handle. It was not
> intended to detract from the fact that the KPA1500 comes so close to so many
> of our wishes for the ideal legal power amplifier, including my own. I
> really believe the KPA1500 fills a need, and that the price is reasonable
> for what it is. For me it is not immediately affordable, but that is a
> separate issue. Maybe one day 
>
> 73,
> Erik K7TV
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Clay Autery [mailto:caut...@montac.com] 
> Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 1:14 AM
> To: Erik Basilier ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet - was KPA 500 vs New 1500 watt
> amp
>
> Never said I would use that solution  and it would not affect resale as
> it is cleanly removable without tool or solvent and no marring of the
> surface.
>
> I am perfectly happy with the stock side panel protectors.  :-)
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 APP CONNECTOR

[Matt Zilmer]

Hi Ken,

It uses the 75 amp APP. It's considerably larger than the 15-30-45 amp 
connectors used on our other equipment for 12VDC.


73,

matt W6NIA


On 4/22/2017 10:37 AM, Ken G Kopp wrote:

Perhaps I'm missing it somewhere in the literature ...

Is the APP connector on the rear of the KPA1500 in some way different from
the 12v APP connector on the rear of the K3?  Size maybe?

Surely they can't be accidentally interchanged? Elecraft simply wouldn't
make such an error.

73

Ken - K0PP
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--
"A delay is better than a disaster."
-- unknonwn

Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
[Shiraz]

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Re: [Elecraft] Signing your posts, KPA1500, KPA500

[Clay Autery]

I dig ambition...  Heck, keep in touch on the M/P KPA500.

73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G

On 4/22/2017 8:31 AM, Mike Smith VE9AA wrote:
> Anyways. A very happy K3 owner here. Now I am thinking about a KPA500 in the
> car and down the road maybe a KPA1500 on the desk.

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[Elecraft] KPA1500 APP CONNECTOR

[Ken G Kopp]

Perhaps I'm missing it somewhere in the literature ...

Is the APP connector on the rear of the KPA1500 in some way different from
the 12v APP connector on the rear of the K3?  Size maybe?

Surely they can't be accidentally interchanged? Elecraft simply wouldn't
make such an error.

73

Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] Experiences using a portable HF loop

[GRANT YOUNGMAN]

A wire will not always outperform a loop.  It depends among other things on 
whether or not you have a way to hang the wire at a reasonable height.  
Typically useless on the beach, for example, unless you pack a pole or two to 
get it up in the air, which means guys and all the rest.  Doable, of course, 
but a lot of junk to tote around even if you have relatively compact extendable 
poles, plus the time to put it up.  Poles/guys can be a problem when there are 
a lot of people around (beach/park/etc) or children who will be attracted to 
them like a magnet to trip over, etc..  You get the picture.  It’s these kinds 
of situations where the loop shines.  Stick it on a table or light tripod and 
you’re on the air in 5 minutes.  

With my KX3, depending on where I’m going and what the landscape looks like I 
use one or more of various wires, Buddipole hardware (light weight mast, shock 
cord whip, miscellaneous bits), or an AlexLoop.  I’m currently waiting delivery 
on a W4OP loop.  The best I can say about any of these options is that if it’s 
what you have, use it.  They all work, sometimes surprisingly well.  After a 
couple of years of this, I can’t say definitely which is always “best”.  I”m 
getting too old and decrepit to still be much of a hiker, so I’m generally 
driving somewhere and walking a relatively short distance to a picnic table in 
a park, down to the neighborhood dock, or the beach, etc.

The AlexLoop is very light to carry, but a downside is that it does NOT have 
any sort of tripod or table mount.  You’re on your own jury rigging something 
out of PVC and clamps to hold it up, or conjuring something that can screw into 
a tripod, etc. (there are plans on the web).  None of it is rocket science, but 
it isn’t just a standard part you can purchase.  

> Greetings all, I'm curious to hear from anyone using a portable HF magnetic 
> loop. I've read the theory behind them so I'd like to hear your opinion about 
> them? How efficient these antennas are, especially running qRP.
> 
> 

Grant NQ5T
K3 #2091, KX3 #8342



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Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Another Idea would be to cut some thin (1/2") spacers out of wood that would 
set in the desktop between the gear to separate it.
I run into the same issue as you since some of the gear does not have handles 
and feet on the sides (speakers, tuner, P3 etc)and  in the past I also had a 
piece of gear get a scratch on it, luckily it was on a piece I made so I could 
repaint it to match.




  From: Erik Basilier 
 To: 'Clay Autery' ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 12:35 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet
   
Clay wrote: " I am perfectly happy with the stock side panel protectors.
:-)"

Let me be more specific on why additional side panel protectors might be
desired. The standard side panel feet work great when the boxes of a K-line
are placed in the order shown in the ad's. However, when you go to a 2-radio
configuration for SO2R, you probably want the most often looked at, or
touched, front panels close together in the middle. The quick pace of SO2R
operations really demands the very best ergonomics that you can achieve. I
currently have the two transceivers in the middle for easy access to the
knobs, with the P3's immediately to the right and left of the two radios.
That means on the right hand side, the boxes are in the standard "K-line"
order, but on the left hand side, the transceiver handle is free to scratch
the neighboring P3. That is what actually happened, but it could have been a
speaker or other box getting scratched. With the two transceivers
side-by-side in the middle, the side feet of the left-hand radio are
positioned next to the handle of the right-hand radio, but they are thinner
than the handle, and there is the potential for the handle to scratch the
left-hand radio in spite of the feet. 

I realize that most people are not interested in dual-radio configurations,
but some may have their own reasons for placing their boxes in a unique
order. It seems to me that the handles could be redesigned so as to have no
sharp edges that can cause scratches, or even better, redesigned so at to
incorporate rubber bumpers. Also, the standard side panel feet could be made
slightly thicker (i.e. thicker than the handles) , and/or available as
add-on options for those who don't use the standard box ordering. Just an
idea, and I am not holding my breath. In the meantime, I may go with
removable stick-on feet, whether the common non-durable types or the better
quality ones suggested by Clay. (In his original suggestion it was not clear
to me that they were easily removable.) As to glue remaining after a cheap
rubber foot has fallen off, I have in the past been successful removing it
with denaturated alcohol, but the paint was left slightly dull. That was on
a "Fine Junk" box, and I would not be surprised it the high quality Elecraft
paint stands up much better. Goo Gone may be better, but I think the
dullness was caused by the glue reacting with the inferior paint, not the
alcohol, as surrounding areas touched by the alcohol did not become dull. 

Not lacking solutions here, just in the mindset of discussing ideals. My
comment was triggered by the image showing the KPA1500 handle. It was not
intended to detract from the fact that the KPA1500 comes so close to so many
of our wishes for the ideal legal power amplifier, including my own. I
really believe the KPA1500 fills a need, and that the price is reasonable
for what it is. For me it is not immediately affordable, but that is a
separate issue. Maybe one day 

73,
Erik K7TV




   
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[Elecraft] Additional KPA1500 amplifier information

[john]

I believe that 30m HP is allowed in most countries and 200 watts is legal in
the US so I would be surprised if it was blocked out.

John KK9A


FromL Gary K9GS
Sat Apr 22 12:36:10 EDT 2017

I was chatting last night with a friend in Canada and we were discussing the
new KPA1500.  He asked if the amp will work on 30m without modification.
Wayne?


73,
Gary K9GS

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Re: [Elecraft] Additional KPA1500 amplifier information

[Jim N7US]

The KPA500 does work on 30M and even 5 MHz.

With the per-band setting in the radio, turning on the KPA500 and placing it in 
OPERATE, the K3 automatically reduces its power to 12W (or whatever) so the 
KPA500 runs at 200W (or whatever).  Switching the amplifier off or to standby 
and the K3 automatically goes back to 110W or whatever.

I've never used it on 5 MHz.

73, Jim N7US

-Original Message-


I was chatting last night with a friend in Canada and we were discussing the 
new KPA1500.  He asked if the amp will work on 30m without modification.  Wayne?


73,
Gary K9GS


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Re: [Elecraft] Additional KPA1500 amplifier information

[GaryK9GS]

I was chatting last night with a friend in Canada and we were discussing the 
new KPA1500.  He asked if the amp will work on 30m without modification.  Wayne?


73,
Gary K9GS
 Original message From: Hisashi T Fujinaka  
Date: 4/22/17  10:36 AM  (GMT-06:00) To: Wayne Burdick  Cc: 
Elecraft Reflector  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 
Additional KPA1500 amplifier information 
Please put me on the list. (K7EMI)

On Thu, 20 Apr 2017, Wayne Burdick wrote:

> Updated FAQ on the KPA1500:
>
>    http://www.elecraft.com/KPA1500/KPA1500%20FAQ%20rev%20A1b.pdf
>
> High-resolution front panel photo:
>
>    http://www.elecraft.com/KPA1500/KPA1500_cropped_hi.jpg
>
> High-resolution rear panel photo:
>
>    http://www.elecraft.com/KPA1500/KPA1500_back_rgb_hi.jpg
>
> KPA1500 web page:
>
>    http://www.elecraft.com/KPA1500/KPA1500.htm
>
> * * *
>
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
> __
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>

-- 
Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com
BSEE + BSChem + BAEnglish + MSCS + $2.50 = coffee
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Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet

[Erik Basilier]

Clay wrote: " I am perfectly happy with the stock side panel protectors.
:-)"

Let me be more specific on why additional side panel protectors might be
desired. The standard side panel feet work great when the boxes of a K-line
are placed in the order shown in the ad's. However, when you go to a 2-radio
configuration for SO2R, you probably want the most often looked at, or
touched, front panels close together in the middle. The quick pace of SO2R
operations really demands the very best ergonomics that you can achieve. I
currently have the two transceivers in the middle for easy access to the
knobs, with the P3's immediately to the right and left of the two radios.
That means on the right hand side, the boxes are in the standard "K-line"
order, but on the left hand side, the transceiver handle is free to scratch
the neighboring P3. That is what actually happened, but it could have been a
speaker or other box getting scratched. With the two transceivers
side-by-side in the middle, the side feet of the left-hand radio are
positioned next to the handle of the right-hand radio, but they are thinner
than the handle, and there is the potential for the handle to scratch the
left-hand radio in spite of the feet. 

I realize that most people are not interested in dual-radio configurations,
but some may have their own reasons for placing their boxes in a unique
order. It seems to me that the handles could be redesigned so as to have no
sharp edges that can cause scratches, or even better, redesigned so at to
incorporate rubber bumpers. Also, the standard side panel feet could be made
slightly thicker (i.e. thicker than the handles) , and/or available as
add-on options for those who don't use the standard box ordering. Just an
idea, and I am not holding my breath. In the meantime, I may go with
removable stick-on feet, whether the common non-durable types or the better
quality ones suggested by Clay. (In his original suggestion it was not clear
to me that they were easily removable.) As to glue remaining after a cheap
rubber foot has fallen off, I have in the past been successful removing it
with denaturated alcohol, but the paint was left slightly dull. That was on
a "Fine Junk" box, and I would not be surprised it the high quality Elecraft
paint stands up much better. Goo Gone may be better, but I think the
dullness was caused by the glue reacting with the inferior paint, not the
alcohol, as surrounding areas touched by the alcohol did not become dull. 

Not lacking solutions here, just in the mindset of discussing ideals. My
comment was triggered by the image showing the KPA1500 handle. It was not
intended to detract from the fact that the KPA1500 comes so close to so many
of our wishes for the ideal legal power amplifier, including my own. I
really believe the KPA1500 fills a need, and that the price is reasonable
for what it is. For me it is not immediately affordable, but that is a
separate issue. Maybe one day 

73,
Erik K7TV



-Original Message-
From: Clay Autery [mailto:caut...@montac.com] 
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 1:14 AM
To: Erik Basilier ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet - was KPA 500 vs New 1500 watt
amp

Never said I would use that solution  and it would not affect resale as
it is cleanly removable without tool or solvent and no marring of the
surface.

I am perfectly happy with the stock side panel protectors.  :-)

__
Clay Autery, KY5G


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[Elecraft] [OT] Test

[Kevin Stover, AC0H]

Testing
--
R. Kevin StoverAC0H
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441
ARRL
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Re: [Elecraft] Additional KPA1500 amplifier information

[Hisashi T Fujinaka]

Please put me on the list. (K7EMI)

On Thu, 20 Apr 2017, Wayne Burdick wrote:


Updated FAQ on the KPA1500:

   http://www.elecraft.com/KPA1500/KPA1500%20FAQ%20rev%20A1b.pdf

High-resolution front panel photo:

   http://www.elecraft.com/KPA1500/KPA1500_cropped_hi.jpg

High-resolution rear panel photo:

   http://www.elecraft.com/KPA1500/KPA1500_back_rgb_hi.jpg

KPA1500 web page:

   http://www.elecraft.com/KPA1500/KPA1500.htm

* * *

Wayne
N6KR


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--
Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com
BSEE + BSChem + BAEnglish + MSCS + $2.50 = coffee
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Re: [Elecraft] Experiences using a portable HF loop

[David Orman]

I would agree with the portable lossy versions. Definitely not the properly
constructed versions. The loop on the left is for transmitting, and is 2"
diameter tubing. Yes, I have some weed removal due. :) Not all loops are
created equal, with minimal resistive losses and a well designed
capacitor/tuning mechanism they can be relatively efficient. This one is
quite good on 20, and better on 40 than any traditional wire antenna I
could setup with the yard and lack of trees. A halfwave dipole a halfwave
up on 40m would outperform it by 4dB or so. No way I could get an antenna
like that setup. The trade-off is of course being extremely high q, a very
narrow bandwidth. Hence the RX loop on the right.

https://goo.gl/photos/PExWyEYZmtVQDSgf7

The downside is the weight and bulk, a small transmitting loop made out of
some coax is going to be down on efficiency significantly, and even low
wire antennas probably will outperform them. Sure are easier to setup when
you don't have trees around, however. Just wanted to make sure people
understand STLs are not necessarily low efficiency, just certain designs
are, and the portable models I've seen all fall in that category.

On Apr 21, 2017 22:02, "Ron D'Eau Claire"  wrote:

> The very BEST magnetic loops are incredibly inefficient, yet like any
> "incredibly inefficient" antenna one can make amazing contacts on them when
> conditions are right.
>
> The problem is with resistive losses. The day we have room-temperature
> superconductors, we will have efficient small transmitting loops. Until
> then, only a few percent of the power applied is radiated.
>
> For now, they are great when simplicity of setup allows operation where
> otherwise nothing could be done.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil
> Hystad
> Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 7:45 PM
> To: Eddy Avila
> Cc: Elecraft
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Experiences using a portable HF loop
>
> The May 2017 QST not only does a review of the Elecraft KX2 but it reviews
> the Alpha Antenna, 10-40 meter support.  This is a magnetic loop antenna
> and
> I think it retails (basic model) for $299.
>
> 73, phil, K7PEH
>
> > On Apr 21, 2017, at 6:24 PM, Eddy Avila  wrote:
> >
> > Greetings all, I'm curious to hear from anyone using a portable HF
> magnetic loop. I've read the theory behind them so I'd like to hear your
> opinion about them? How efficient these antennas are, especially running
> qRP.
> >
> >
> > Thanks all,
> >
> >
> > 73
> >
> >
> > ed
> > __
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> >
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> > phys...@mac.com
>
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[Elecraft] SOTA Low Rider stand for the KX3 FS

[Howard Sherer]

It has been sold. I only responded to the 1st buyer and payment has been
received.

Thank you
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Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet - was KPA 500 vs New 1500 watt amp

[Stan Horzepa]

Goo Gone will remove an ugly (or pretty) residue of glue.

73,

Stan, WA1LOU


On 4/22/17 1:32 AM, Erik Basilier wrote:
  

  


From: Erik Basilier [mailto:ebasil...@cox.net]
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 9:45 PM
To: 'Harry Yingst' 
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Handles and feet - was KPA 500 vs New 1500 watt amp

  


Harry, I have considered doing the same. However, my experience with using the 
stick-ons is that the glue goes bad in a few years, and the foot falls off, 
leaving an ugly residue of glue.

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Re: [Elecraft] Experiences using a portable HF loop

[Michael Babineau]

I agree with almost everything that Ron says in the post, except I would 
substitute the 
statement  "The very BEST magnetic loops are incredibly inefficient” with “The 
very BEST magnetic loops are incredibly inefficient on the lower bands”.

Pretty much all of the Magnetic Loops on the market are around 1 meter in 
diameter, which means that circumference of 
the radiator is about 10 feet.  This size of loop if well constructed can have 
efficiencies approaching 90% on 10m and something
in the range of 30 to 40 % on 20m, so they will work reasonably well on these 
higher bands. 
The wheels start to fall off on 30m and especially 40m, where typically you 
would be looking at single digit efficiencies.  
This is really not surprising, if you put a 10 foot vertical on 40m you are 
going to find that it is not very efficient either ! 
If you had a 2 meter diameter loop then efficiencies on 40m and 30m would be 
significantly improved, but you would lose the
ability to resonate it on 10m/12m and likely on 15m and 17m too. 


What a 1 meter diameter Magnetic Loop has going for it is extreme portability 
(at least for those with a foldable radiator), 
quick deployment (typically < 5 minutes for something like the Alex Loop), 
ground independence (no need for radials), some bi-directionality
in the plane of the loop but more significantly a very deep null broadside to 
the loop which can be effective at killing a noise source.
It also typically provides continuous band coverage from 10m through 40m with 
2:1 SWR bandwidths for a well
constructed loop around 100+ Khz on 10m dropping to something around 10 Khz on 
40m, all in a very small package. It is both a reasonable DX antenna
on the higher bands as well as a usable NVIS antenna on 40m. As with any 
antenna they work better if higher, but as a minimum they must be 1 loop radius 
above ground, so 
mounting on a lightweight camera tripod works ok. 

It is possible to make NVIS QSOs on 40m using only a few hundred mW of power, 
often with surprising signal strength, so putting 5 or 10 watts into an 
antenna with  5% efficiency can still yield a usable signal. 


Cheers

Michael VE3WMB 

P.S. The secret to squeezing out the best performance when building a loop is 
having a solid conductor that is welded/soldered to 
the tuning capacitor (you need to try to avoid mechanicalconnections as they 
add resistance) and using either a split stator or butterfly air variable 
capacitor or a vacuum variable capacitor. Cheap capacitors with wiper contacts 
on the rotor will kill your efficiency. 

The radiation resistance of a Magnetic Loop is low (typically less than a few 
ohms) and it drops as you press it into service on lower frequencies. Even 
small additional
resistances add up and become significant when compared to the radiation 
resistance on the lower bands and this is what causes the Loop efficiency to go 
down the toilet. 


>From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" >
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Experiences using a portable HF loop
>Date: April 21, 2017 at 11:00:09 PM GMT-4
>To: "'Phil Hystad'" >, "'Eddy Avila'" 
>>
>Cc: "'Elecraft'" >


>The very BEST magnetic loops are incredibly inefficient, yet like any
>"incredibly inefficient" antenna one can make amazing contacts on them when
conditions are right. 

>The problem is with resistive losses. The day we have room-temperature
>superconductors, we will have efficient small transmitting loops. Until
>then, only a few percent of the power applied is radiated. 

>For now, they are great when simplicity of setup allows operation where
>otherwise nothing could be done. 

>73, Ron AC7AC
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Re: [Elecraft] Experiences using a portable HF loop

[Augie "Gus" Hansen]

On 4/21/2017 9:00 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

The very BEST magnetic loops are incredibly inefficient, yet like any
"incredibly inefficient" antenna one can make amazing contacts on them when
conditions are right.


If you use the suggestion that the loop perimeter (circumference for a 
circular loop) be 1/10 of a wavelength, then efficiency is quite low - 
on the order of 10%. This is the guidance given for small receiving 
loops to get the best nulls.


However, a transmitting loop can have a perimeter of up to 1/3 
wavelength and still have a constant current throughout its length 
(within 1% per John Kraus). This constant loop current is what defines a 
magnetic loop.



The problem is with resistive losses. The day we have room-temperature
superconductors, we will have efficient small transmitting loops. Until
then, only a few percent of the power applied is radiated.


My loops are typically a bit short of 1/3 wavelength at the high 
frequency of the tuning range, and no less that 1/10 wavelength at the 
low end. The efficiency of a 3/10 wavelength loop, for example, is in 
excess of 90% provided the resistances are kept low. I typically use the 
outer (shield) of hard line for the loop conductor and a series vacuum 
variable capacitor for remote tuning.


It is also possible to use multiple turns to reduce the size of a 
magnetic loop even further. There is an example of a 40-80 meter mag 
loop on my QRZ page that uses 7/8-inch hard line in a two-turn 
configuration. Even though only 4.5 feet in diameter, it works quite 
well when compared to a typical back yard inverted vee or low dipole, 
and it can be hidden in an attic, the back of a garage, or tucked out of 
sight among trees or bushes.


73,
Gus Hansen
KB0YH

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[Elecraft] SOTA Low Rider stand for the KX3 FS

[Howard Sherer]

I have changed to KX2 for portable operation and no longer need this very
compact stand $20 shipped withinthe US.


Howard Sherer AE3T
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[Elecraft] Signing your posts, KPA1500, KPA500

[Mike Smith VE9AA]

I have very much enjoyed the recent flurry of posts wrt the KPA1500 (well
done Elecraft).

One semi-related thing I have noticed. (simply due to the sheer volume of
posts  this weekend I suppose)

 

There are one or two fellas who consistently post (often MANY times a day)
without so much as a name or callsign attached to their posts/emails.

 

One can do a google search of their email and posts on other ham radio sites
and eventually figure out who there are, but I find it very annoying to
constantly see (often) one or two lines emails, comments and/or questions
without a name and better yet, any callsign attached.  I am not talking
about occasionally forgetting.

 

I am talking about constantly.

 

Are you ashamed of your name or call?  Are you simply trolls?

 

Anyways. A very happy K3 owner here. Now I am thinking about a KPA500 in the
car and down the road maybe a KPA1500 on the desk.

 

Thanks all !

 

Mike VE9AA

 

 

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[Elecraft] Change in K3 firmware for KPA1500

[Tony G6GLP]

Hi


Just a thought. Will there be a change tot he K3 firmware to support the 
KPA1500?


When a KPA500 is attached to the K3, the K3 knows if the KPA500 is on 
and active and changes the drive level accordingly, however should a 
KPA1500 be attached as well, the K3 will have to know which amp is 
active and on which antenna port (and band) if more than one is present 
as in the case of the ATU board. Is this a feature in the to do list or 
does it actually exist but no one has seen / used it yet. The same could 
have been said if two KPA500 where attached.



I am considering a KPA1500 but having in the last 6 month bought a SPE 
1.3k FA and got to like it. Now I am not sure what to do. What I like 
about the SPE is the two i/p and four antenna ports. What I like about 
the KPA1500 is the full integration both electrically and ergonomically 
as well as the pin diode switching. The slight increase in power is not 
an issue. If I didnt have the SPE i would definitely have had a KPA1500 
to go with the K line (Kpod,K3,KAT500,KPA500,P3). Now I have to think of 
part chopping the SPE!



73 de Tony G6GLP



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[Elecraft] Pre-Order KPA1500?

[David F. Reed]

Sorry, I must have missed it somehow; is there a way we can pre-order or 
get on the list for this exciting new product?


Thanks & 73 de Dave, W5SV


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Re: [Elecraft] PX3

[Nr4c]

Use the I/Q output to soundcard and sdr software. . 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Apr 22, 2017, at 12:21 AM, John Lally  wrote:
> 
> Are there any plans to have the PX3 project its screen to a computer?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> W7JJL
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 vs new amp

[David Bunte]

Roy -

The photo on the Elecraft site clearly shows the handle on the left side,
as you face the front of the amp. That was mentioned somewhere in the
myriad comments on the new, exciting, and impressive piece of gear.

Dave - K9FN

On Sat, Apr 22, 2017 at 7:46 AM, Roy Koeppe  wrote:

>
> "I note there are feet on the side which implies handles.  This I haven't
> seen mentioned."   (etc.)
>
>
> Even a BC-610 had handles!
>
> 73.  RoyK6XK
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 vs new amp

[Roy Koeppe]

"I note there are feet on the side which implies handles.  This I haven't 
seen mentioned."   (etc.)



Even a BC-610 had handles!

73.  RoyK6XK 



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Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet - was KPA 500 vs New 1500 watt amp

[Clay Autery]

Never said I would use that solution  and it would not affect resale
as it is cleanly removable without tool or solvent and no marring of the
surface.

I am perfectly happy with the stock side panel protectors.  :-)

__
Clay Autery, KY5G

On 4/22/2017 1:21 AM, Erik Basilier wrote:
> Clay, that sounds like a proper engineering solution, but overkill since
> Elecraft has already found a solution used for the side panel feet, that
> shows no signs of failure over 10 years. Moreover, using your approach would
> likely affect the resale value negatively, while an official solution
> (adding more feet like the existing side feet, or slightly thicker) from
> Elecraft might not.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Clay
> Autery
> Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 10:37 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet - was KPA 500 vs New 1500 watt
> amp
>
> OK.
>
> 1) For the "feet", find a supply of little discs of desired thickness made
> from Sorbothane.
> 2) Buy the appropriate 3M Command strips. removable.  Even if the glue
> goes, it will come right off.
>
> Or you can do the research and get the right glue chemistry for the
> application and have it applied to the Sorbothane discs...
>
> 73,
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
>
> On 4/22/2017 12:32 AM, Erik Basilier wrote:
>>  
>>
>>  
>>
>> From: Erik Basilier [mailto:ebasil...@cox.net]
>> Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 9:45 PM
>> To: 'Harry Yingst' 
>> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Handles and feet - was KPA 500 vs New 1500 
>> watt amp
>>
>>  
>>
>> Harry, I have considered doing the same. However, my experience with using
> the stick-ons is that the glue goes bad in a few years, and the foot falls
> off, leaving an ugly residue of glue.
>>  
>>
>> From: Harry Yingst [mailto:hlyin...@yahoo.com]
>> Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 8:35 PM
>> To: Erik Basilier  >; 
>> 'Nr4c'  >; 'Clay 
>> Autery'  >
>> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Handles and feet - was KPA 500 vs New 1500 
>> watt amp
>>
>>  
>>
>> I put little stick on feet where two peices of gear may touch
>>
>>  
>>
>>  
>>
>>  
>>
>>  
>>
>>
>>
>>  Original message 
>> From: Erik Basilier  >
>> Date: 2017-04-21 10:59 PM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: 'Nr4c'  >, 'Clay 
>> Autery'  >
>> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Handles and feet - was KPA 500 vs New 1500 
>> watt amp
>>
>> As the number of Elecraft boxes on my shelf has grown, what I have 
>> long feared has recently happened: The handle on one box (or probably 
>> a screw on the handle) created a small scratch on the nude side of 
>> neighboring box. It looks like the KPA1500 handle design is unchanged. 
>> Maybe it is time for an upgrade of the handle design, or maybe we 
>> could use a kit of add-on feet or spacers?
>>
>> 73,
>> Erik K7TV
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
>> Nr4c
>> Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 7:44 PM
>> To: Clay Autery  >
>> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA 500 vs New 1500 watt amp
>>
>> It's for carrying and the little feet keep the case from getting
> scratched. 
>> There's no space or - in Elecraft products.  
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ...nr4c. bill
>>
>>
>>> On Apr 21, 2017, at 6:35 PM, Clay Autery   > wrote:
>>> Cannot wait to get a look inside
>>>
>>> There IS a handle on the left side (as you look at it).  I don't know 
>>> if the small feet on the right side are for vertical orientation or 
>>> to prevent the total blockage of the vents if shoved up next to 
>>> another K-line product OR the power supply box...
>>>
>>> __
>>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>>>
>> __
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>> hlyin...@yahoo.com 
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet - was KPA 500 vs New 1500 watt amp

[Erik Basilier]

Clay, that sounds like a proper engineering solution, but overkill since
Elecraft has already found a solution used for the side panel feet, that
shows no signs of failure over 10 years. Moreover, using your approach would
likely affect the resale value negatively, while an official solution
(adding more feet like the existing side feet, or slightly thicker) from
Elecraft might not.

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Clay
Autery
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 10:37 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FW: Handles and feet - was KPA 500 vs New 1500 watt
amp

OK.

1) For the "feet", find a supply of little discs of desired thickness made
from Sorbothane.
2) Buy the appropriate 3M Command strips. removable.  Even if the glue
goes, it will come right off.

Or you can do the research and get the right glue chemistry for the
application and have it applied to the Sorbothane discs...

73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 4/22/2017 12:32 AM, Erik Basilier wrote:
>  
>
>  
>
> From: Erik Basilier [mailto:ebasil...@cox.net]
> Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 9:45 PM
> To: 'Harry Yingst' 
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Handles and feet - was KPA 500 vs New 1500 
> watt amp
>
>  
>
> Harry, I have considered doing the same. However, my experience with using
the stick-ons is that the glue goes bad in a few years, and the foot falls
off, leaving an ugly residue of glue.
>
>  
>
> From: Harry Yingst [mailto:hlyin...@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 8:35 PM
> To: Erik Basilier  >; 
> 'Nr4c'  >; 'Clay 
> Autery'  >
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Handles and feet - was KPA 500 vs New 1500 
> watt amp
>
>  
>
> I put little stick on feet where two peices of gear may touch
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Erik Basilier  >
> Date: 2017-04-21 10:59 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: 'Nr4c'  >, 'Clay 
> Autery'  >
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Handles and feet - was KPA 500 vs New 1500 
> watt amp
>
> As the number of Elecraft boxes on my shelf has grown, what I have 
> long feared has recently happened: The handle on one box (or probably 
> a screw on the handle) created a small scratch on the nude side of 
> neighboring box. It looks like the KPA1500 handle design is unchanged. 
> Maybe it is time for an upgrade of the handle design, or maybe we 
> could use a kit of add-on feet or spacers?
>
> 73,
> Erik K7TV
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
> Nr4c
> Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 7:44 PM
> To: Clay Autery  >
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA 500 vs New 1500 watt amp
>
> It's for carrying and the little feet keep the case from getting
scratched. 
>
> There's no space or - in Elecraft products.  
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
>
>
>> On Apr 21, 2017, at 6:35 PM, Clay Autery  > wrote:
>>
>> Cannot wait to get a look inside
>>
>> There IS a handle on the left side (as you look at it).  I don't know 
>> if the small feet on the right side are for vertical orientation or 
>> to prevent the total blockage of the vents if shoved up next to 
>> another K-line product OR the power supply box...
>>
>> __
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>>
> __
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>
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