[Elecraft] KPA1500 latest firmware

[Paul Baldock]

Listed under new features for 01.64 7-12-2018  is 
Support for Elecraft Remote Software, ver 1.0.4.0.


This suggests that the remote software is now available. However the 
link appears not to work. Is the remote software in fact available somewhere?


- Paul  KW7Y 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 fan activation temp.

[markmusick]

>From firmware v1.64 release notes:

.   Prior settings: 60, 65, 70, 75, 80 degrees.
.   New settings: 60, 70, 78, 85, 90 degrees.

73,
Mark, WB9CIF

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Ronald Genovesi
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 4:00 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 fan activation temp.

Does anyone know,  at what temp. The fan should come on (level -1) on
the KPA1500?

Thanks


 Ron Genovesi
 n3...@coastside.net





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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Tuning is Nonlinear

[Don Wilhelm]

Norman,

I would first re-do the CAL PLL procedure, then see what happens.
If that does not fix it, try doing a Master Reset (hold the 4, 5, and 6 
butons in while powering on).  When INFO 201 turns to the frequency 
display, do a CAL PLL and check again.


Check the soldering of U5 and Control Board U7 and re-test after a CAL 
PLL run.


Lastly, Try adding a 10 to 15pF capacitor between the source of RF Board 
Q19 and ground.  Then re-run CAL PLL.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/17/2018 9:52 PM, Cox, Norman R. wrote:

Dear Group:


  I am about finished building my K2, but have encountered a frustrating 
problem.  Maybe someone can help me.   I have performed most of the alignment 
in Part III, but noticed the following when trying to receive signals:


 When I turn the tuning knob, tuning is nonlinear.  On some bands, it will 
change frequency gradually, as it should, but then jump to another frequency.  
On other bands, it never tunes linear at all, but just makes large jumps in 
frequency as you are turning the knob.


  I checked this jump, and sure enough, it was 5 KHz.  So the PLL is 
working ok.  The problem is the lower bits of resolution that are processed by 
U5 (the DAC) on the RF Board.  On two of the bands, as the knob is turned, the 
output of U5 (pin 7) varies from 0 to about 0.8 volts, then jumps to 4.0 volts. 
 On one or two other bands, it just jumps the 5 KHz -- no linear parts.  And on 
the other bands, the output of the DAC does not change at all that I can tell.

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Re: [Elecraft] Serial Number

[Ronald Genovesi]

  Hi Wayne
I double checked (I have been known to make mistakes) I did indeed placed 
my order on May 7th 2018  I did receive my KPA1500 on July 13 (could have been 
July 11th but I was out of town) and the serial number is #328
 Unfortunately I can shed no light on how Elecraft assigns  Serial numbers 
to their equipment.  

 Ron Genovesi
 n3...@coastside.net





> On Jul 17, 2018, at 4:05 PM, Wayne Houser  wrote:
> 
> Must be a quirk in the serial number chain of
> command.
> Friend of mine took delivery on his KPA 1500 a month ago and his serial
> number was 291.A guy on the reflector ordered his amp on May 7th and
> his serial number was something like 330 or 331. I ordered mine on May 8th
> and got serial number 282. Wonder how that happened???
> 
> Wayne
> WV4TN
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[Elecraft] KPA1500 fan activation temp.

[Ronald Genovesi]

Does anyone know,  at what temp. The fan should come on (level -1) on the 
KPA1500?

Thanks


 Ron Genovesi
 n3...@coastside.net





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Re: [Elecraft] K3S and power failure

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Well that condition of a power failure is never advised.   Likely the 
radio just won't save the last parameters.   And yes it is never advised 
to turn off the power supply before turning off the radio.    The radio 
saves the last used parameters when the power switch is depressed.   
This won't occur when the supply is switched off before the radio.


Yes, a UPS would be nice and will prevent such events but..be sure 
to get one that is sine wave {they usually generate less crud}  and one 
that does not generate RFI and birdies.    Usually "cheap ones" won't 
pass muster in this regard.  Good ones run with the output locked in 
phase with the power line and may actually supply power 100% of the 
time.   Others switch quickly to prevent power interruptions to the load.


The "quiet" method is to float a small battery, depending on how long 
you want to hold the system up, determines the Ah rating. If your supply 
is running a solid 13.8 to 13.9 then a lead acid battery of the 
garden/lawn mower type works just fine.  Connect the battery across the 
supply output.  A 20 amp or so fuse should be in the positive line 
between the battery and supply.    You should check to see when the 
supply is off that it does not draw current from the battery.  Most 
don't, yet some do.  This will discharge the battery when the supply is 
off.     I don't advise using diodes to isolate the battery from the 
supply and then feed the radio due to the voltage drop across the 
diodes.  Plus the diodes will need to be rated at the current of the 
supply and/or radio current demand, and those will likely require a heat 
sink.


73

Bob, K4TAX



On 7/17/2018 8:46 PM, Bob Novas wrote:

My house occasionally has a power failure, typically lasting less than a
minute. One just happened.  Do I have to worry about operating the K3S and
having a power failure?  It would be like turning off the power supply
without first turning off the K3S, and I understand that's not recommended.
Do I need a UPS for the K3S?  What would be nice would be a small battery
that powered the smarts independently of the mains supply.  Bob - W3DK

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[Elecraft] K2 - Tuning is Nonlinear

[Cox, Norman R.]

Dear Group:


 I am about finished building my K2, but have encountered a frustrating 
problem.  Maybe someone can help me.   I have performed most of the alignment 
in Part III, but noticed the following when trying to receive signals:


When I turn the tuning knob, tuning is nonlinear.  On some bands, it will 
change frequency gradually, as it should, but then jump to another frequency.  
On other bands, it never tunes linear at all, but just makes large jumps in 
frequency as you are turning the knob.


 I checked this jump, and sure enough, it was 5 KHz.  So the PLL is working 
ok.  The problem is the lower bits of resolution that are processed by U5 (the 
DAC) on the RF Board.  On two of the bands, as the knob is turned, the output 
of U5 (pin 7) varies from 0 to about 0.8 volts, then jumps to 4.0 volts.  On 
one or two other bands, it just jumps the 5 KHz -- no linear parts.  And on the 
other bands, the output of the DAC does not change at all that I can tell.


   I checked the output of the encoder, and it seems to be working -- at least, 
digital levels are sent to the microprocessor U6 on the control board.  I don't 
know if there's something messed up in the EEPROM or the DAC or the programming 
of the microprocessor.


   Have any of you had this problem or have suggestions?


Thanks for your assistance,


Norm

KE0ZT

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[Elecraft] K3S and power failure

[Bob Novas]

My house occasionally has a power failure, typically lasting less than a
minute. One just happened.  Do I have to worry about operating the K3S and
having a power failure?  It would be like turning off the power supply
without first turning off the K3S, and I understand that's not recommended.
Do I need a UPS for the K3S?  What would be nice would be a small battery
that powered the smarts independently of the mains supply.  Bob - W3DK

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Re: [Elecraft] Vanity Calls

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Same procedure in TN. Call plate obtained with amateur license at regular 
price. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 17, 2018, at 7:47 PM, Phil Hystad via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ditto for Washington State — copy of FCC license required to get call sign 
> plate.  But, at least in WA state, the plate is not considered a vanity plate 
> so you don’t need to pay the premium charge for a vanity plate.
> 
> 73, phil, K7PEH 
> Kirkland
> 
>> On Jul 17, 2018, at 4:14 PM, Phil Kane  wrote:
>> 
>> On 7/16/2018 11:15 AM, Charlie T wrote:
>> 
>>> Yes, and I have TWO of them here in Virginia.  
>>> One says K3ICH and the other one is K31CH.
>>> They don't know ham calls at the DMV (HI).
>> 
>> In both CA and OR where I have had ham plates, it was necessary to
>> submit a copy of my ham license showing the requested call sign as part
>> of the application.
>> 
>> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
>> Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
>> 
>> From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
>> Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] Vanity Calls

[John Simmons]

Same here in Minnesota... BUT! Motorcycle vanity plates are available, 
but Motorcycle ham plates are not. Emails to congressmen on the DMV 
committee have been ignored. Maybe I should try the Governor?


-John NI0K


Phil Hystad via Elecraft 
Tuesday, July 17, 2018 7:47 PM
Ditto for Washington State — copy of FCC license required to get call 
sign plate. But, at least in WA state, the plate is not considered a 
vanity plate so you don’t need to pay the premium charge for a vanity 
plate.


73, phil, K7PEH
Kirkland


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Phil Kane 
Tuesday, July 17, 2018 6:14 PM

In both CA and OR where I have had ham plates, it was necessary to
submit a copy of my ham license showing the requested call sign as part
of the application.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Charlie T 
Monday, July 16, 2018 1:15 PM
Yes, and I have TWO of them here in Virginia.
One says K3ICH and the other one is K31CH.
They don't know ham calls at the DMV (HI).

73, Charlie k3ICH




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 On Behalf Of Nr4c

Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 11:49 AM
To: dyarnes 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Vanity Calls

In Virginia it’s not a vanity plate and only costs one dollar more 
than regular plates.


Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill



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Nr4c 
Monday, July 16, 2018 10:49 AM
In Virginia it’s not a vanity plate and only costs one dollar more 
than regular plates.


Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill



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dyarnes 
Monday, July 16, 2018 8:30 AM

Hi All,

My call (W7AQK) is designated as a vanity call even though it is the 
original call assigned to me back in 1955. Under past FCC rules, I had 
to give it up when I moved to a different call area. That actually 
happened twice! The first time I reacquired this call it cost me 
nothing! FCC just reassigned it to me as a previous holder. However, 
in the early 90’s, when I decided I wanted my original call again, and 
I was again in the 7th call district, I had to do so under the vanity 
program, and pay extra for it too! Even renewals were subject to a 
special fee! Now that has changed, thankfully. However, I still 
somewhat resent the fact that my call is considered a vanity call, 
even though I am a previous holder of it, and also that, at one time, 
I would have been reissued this call by “rights”.


While I’m grousing about “vanity” issues, our Arizona Department of 
Transportation allows me to have a “vanity” license plate with my call 
on it. I pay an extra $25 for that, presumably to cover the cost of 
special processing. However, I have to pay that same $25 every time I 
renew! Why??? It doesn’t cost them anything extra once the plate has 
been made and issued!!! Seems a bit unfair to me!


Dave W7AQK
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Post: 

Re: [Elecraft] Vanity Calls

[Phil Hystad via Elecraft]

Ditto for Washington State — copy of FCC license required to get call sign 
plate.  But, at least in WA state, the plate is not considered a vanity plate 
so you don’t need to pay the premium charge for a vanity plate.

73, phil, K7PEH 
Kirkland

> On Jul 17, 2018, at 4:14 PM, Phil Kane  wrote:
> 
> On 7/16/2018 11:15 AM, Charlie T wrote:
> 
>> Yes, and I have TWO of them here in Virginia.  
>> One says K3ICH and the other one is K31CH.
>> They don't know ham calls at the DMV (HI).
> 
> In both CA and OR where I have had ham plates, it was necessary to
> submit a copy of my ham license showing the requested call sign as part
> of the application.
> 
> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
> Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
> 
> From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
> Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] Vanity Calls

[Phil Kane]

On 7/16/2018 11:15 AM, Charlie T wrote:

> Yes, and I have TWO of them here in Virginia.  
> One says K3ICH and the other one is K31CH.
> They don't know ham calls at the DMV (HI).

In both CA and OR where I have had ham plates, it was necessary to
submit a copy of my ham license showing the requested call sign as part
of the application.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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[Elecraft] Serial Number

[Wayne Houser]

Must be a quirk in the serial number chain of
command.
Friend of mine took delivery on his KPA 1500 a month ago and his serial
number was 291.A guy on the reflector ordered his amp on May 7th and
his serial number was something like 330 or 331. I ordered mine on May 8th
and got serial number 282. Wonder how that happened???

Wayne
WV4TN
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Buck]

I noticed the clicks when the amp was new.  Advice was to re-seat the 
toroid transformer.  That made no difference but the clicks have gone 
away.  I assume the transformer settled in, if such a thing is possible.


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 7/17/2018 5:37 PM, ANDY DURBIN wrote:

"I'd appreciate a  pointer to any discussions of Z bracket clicks.  My search didn't 
find anything."


I looked again and this time found some discussion here - 
https://forums.qrz.com/index.php?threads/elecraft-kpa500-pinging-during-operating.591521/
and here  - 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-Heat-Expansion-Pop-td7075132.html.


Reading between the lines I get the impression Elecraft tried to fix the 
problem, found they had not, so wrote in the manual that it is normal.


I'd still like an answer to the question I asked April 21, 2018 -

"To what extend does the thermal design require conduction between the PA heat sink 
and the case metalwork?  Would the thermal management be compromised if very thin mylar 
strips were placed between the heat sink and the case side panel , case rear panel, or Z 
bracket?".

Would someone at Elecraft please respond to this.
Thanks and 73,
Andy k3wyc




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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[ANDY DURBIN]

"I'd appreciate a  pointer to any discussions of Z bracket clicks.  My search 
didn't find anything."


I looked again and this time found some discussion here - 
https://forums.qrz.com/index.php?threads/elecraft-kpa500-pinging-during-operating.591521/
and here  - 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-Heat-Expansion-Pop-td7075132.html.


Reading between the lines I get the impression Elecraft tried to fix the 
problem, found they had not, so wrote in the manual that it is normal.


I'd still like an answer to the question I asked April 21, 2018 -

"To what extend does the thermal design require conduction between the PA heat 
sink and the case metalwork?  Would the thermal management be compromised if 
very thin mylar strips were placed between the heat sink and the case side 
panel , case rear panel, or Z bracket?".

Would someone at Elecraft please respond to this.
Thanks and 73,
Andy k3wyc




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 DSP Real Time Clock

[Don Wilhelm]

Bob,

The display of "E"s will be shown after the battery has been changed.
Have you tried holding the STORE and RCL buttons together?  If so, what 
is displayed after they are released?   See page 33 in the KDSP2 manual.


If you still get all "E"s after holding those buttons, I don't have a 
good answer (I have never encountered that).  I would suggest emailing 
supp...@elecraft.com.  Perhaps Gary will have an answer.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/17/2018 4:16 PM, Bob DeHaney wrote:

I cannot get the clock to work.  The RTC is "On", new battery, but the clock
display shows the battery as discharged. Otherwise the DSP seems to work
fine.

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[Elecraft] K2 DSP Real Time Clock

[Bob DeHaney]

I cannot get the clock to work.  The RTC is "On", new battery, but the clock
display shows the battery as discharged. Otherwise the DSP seems to work
fine.

Vy 73 de Bob DJ0RD/WU5T

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[Elecraft] For Sale - KPA500

[Don Minkoff]

Elecraft KPA500  amplifier still available

KAT500 antenna tuner :SOLD pending funds

I am the original owner.
It is set up for 240V with 220V AC cord . Ser. No. 2208, purchased new 
in Oct 2014 as a kit.

All cables and manuals included
Will work with any radio.
$1750.  P/U or can deliver close by to West Los Angeles
Non smoker.
Pictures available
PayPal OK.
Shipping plus insurance extra

Don, NK6A
310-482-9582

--
Don Minkoff
NK6A

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Re: [Elecraft] Band switching with the KPA 500

[Cady, Fred]

Hi John,

No, you can make use of the frequency measurement and band changing 
capabilities of the KPA500 and KAT500.

You look here for a couple of guides for the KAT and KPA.

http://www.ke7x.com/home/k-line-introduction-and-set-up-guide


73 and cheers,

Fred KE7X


For all KE7X Elecraft manuals, see www.ke7x.com



From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of John Clemmer 
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2018 12:44 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Band switching with the KPA 500

Good afternoon.  Reading the manual while I am waiting for parts.  will be here 
tomorrow.  I see that there is auto band switching available.  I will be using 
a flex 6400M with the KPA and the KAT 500.  I see that it talks about an aux 
cable.  Is this cable needed to accomplish band auto band switching.

John
KB4OIF
Proud Vietnam Vet
Freedom is not free, someone paid!!!
There would be no freedom without the military
In GOD, we trust.
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Re: [Elecraft] SDRPlay connection to K3S

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

Doesn't matter if the SDR Play input is well above 50 Ohms.  What
matters is the *RELATIVE DIFFERENCE* between the SDR and the K3.
Unless both track closely the lower impedance device will "suck out"
signal from the higher impedance device.

In addition, one still needs isolation to prevent spurious signals
(e.g. Local oscillator, phase noise, harmonics etc.) generated in
one device from impacting the other.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2018-07-17 1:08 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

My measurements indicate the SDR Play input Z is well above 50 ohms and no 
degration  in signal strength was noted.

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 17, 2018, at 9:16 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:


You will need a (hybrid) splitter ... connect the common port of
the splitter to the RX ANT Out jack, connect one output of the
splitter to RX ANT IN and connect the other output of the splitter
to the SDRPlay antenna jack.

A splitter is necessary to keep one receiver from loading the
other resulting in loss of sensitivity.  The receivers (K3, SDRPlay)
do not have identical input impedance across their range and one
receiver or the other can become (relatively) deaf on certain
frequencies depending on the characteristics of the input circuits.

There are those who will say use a BNC T ... that may or may not
be satisfactory depending on cable lengths and receiver input
characteristics.  Unlike a hybrid splitter, the BNC T connector has
no isolation between output ports which allows spurious signals
generated in one receiver to be coupled directly into the other.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV



On 2018-07-17 9:16 AM, Steve Muenich wrote:
Hello gang,
Is there a proper port on the K3S to connect a SDRPlay that would allow for 
sharing the main antenna while receiving, then be disconnected and isolated 
when the K3S go into transmit?
Thanks
Steve, NA5C
K3S 10121
Sent from my mobile device
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[Elecraft] Band switching with the KPA 500

[John Clemmer]

Good afternoon.  Reading the manual while I am waiting for parts.  will be here 
tomorrow.  I see that there is auto band switching available.  I will be using 
a flex 6400M with the KPA and the KAT 500.  I see that it talks about an aux 
cable.  Is this cable needed to accomplish band auto band switching.

John
KB4OIF
Proud Vietnam Vet
Freedom is not free, someone paid!!!
There would be no freedom without the military
In GOD, we trust.
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Re: [Elecraft] SDRPlay connection to K3S

[Bob Wilson, N6TV]

MiniCircuits ZFSC-2-6+ 50 ohm splitter with BNC connectors.

https://www.minicircuits.com/WebStore/dashboard.html?model=ZFSC-2-6%2B

You can also get away with a cheap 75 ohm Cable TV splitter, but they use
F-connectors.

Of course to get anything out of RX ANT OUT you have to press the RX ANT
button on the K3 (at least once on each band).

73,
Bob, N6TV

On Tue, Jul 17, 2018 at 7:31 AM, Dave Cole (NK7Z)  wrote:

> Joe,
> Got a recommendation for one commercially?
>
> 73s and thanks,
> Dave
> NK7Z
> https://www.nk7z.net
>
>
> On 07/17/2018 07:16 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
>
>>
>> You will need a (hybrid) splitter ... connect the common port of
>> the splitter to the RX ANT Out jack, connect one output of the
>> splitter to RX ANT IN and connect the other output of the splitter
>> to the SDRPlay antenna jack.
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] FT8 and Strong Signals

[Doug Turnbull]

Thank you Bob and Jim for the useful observations.
 73 Doug EI2CN

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob McGraw K4TAX
Sent: 17 July 2018 18:11
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FT8 and Strong Signals

Thanks Jim, K9YC, for the detailed information.  I too concur that wide 
signals can more likely be the result of the waterfall adjustments, or 
the system gain, which has the no signal noise level above 30 dB on the 
WSJT-X bargraph indicator.  If this is the case, adjust the audio level 
in the Windows application to reduce the level.

As to AGC, I run AGC on my K3S on Fast when operating FT-8. Likewise for 
CW.   Thus I've found no disadvantage in having it on, and little to no 
advantage in having it off.   Other than I manually have to adjust RF gain.

On that note, for the most part on 160 M, 80 M & 40 M I do run 15 dB to 
10 dB of Attenuation and back the RF Gain down accordingly.  For higher 
frequencies,  60 M and above, I do not use Attenuation and adjust the RF 
gain accordingly.  This seems to produce optimum receiver performance. 
On 6 M I do engage the preamp.

73

Bob, K4TAX




On 7/17/2018 12:59 PM, turnbull wrote:
> Jim,  Thank you for the solid information.
> 73 Doug EI2CN
> PS I understand AGC should be disabled.
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
>  Original message From: Jim Brown
 Date: 17/07/2018  18:51  (GMT+00:00) To:
elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] FT8 and Strong Signals
> On 7/17/2018 8:52 AM, turnbull wrote:
>> I agree but many people are suffering from wide FT8 signals from others
with strong signals.
> Part of this is perception rather than reality -- a failure to
> understand the waterfall display. Because the waterfall displays both
> signal strength and spectrum, a very strong signal may APPEAR to be
> broader than it really is. I have a half dozen or so neighbors running
> FT8 on 6M within about 15 miles, and all are running a power amp (mostly
> KPA500, but my closest neighbor, about 5 miles, runs 1.3kW. Most of us
> are running K3s. It's not uncommon for one of these signals to SEEM to
> occupy 500 Hz or more, the reality is that I often decode weak signals
> within that 500 Hz.
>
> Another point. K1JT recommends setting audio level into the computer for
> an indicated 30 dB on the bar graph. I think this is part of the problem
> caused by strong signals taking over the AGC and greatly reducing the
> gain. If, for example, a local who's 30 dB over S9, reduces the RF gain
> by 30 dB, an S9 signal would be below the level of the sound card! I set
> audio level into the computer for the highest level that doesn't flash
> RED (indicating digital clip) on strong signals. My bar graph typically
> runs 50-60 dB. With this setting, even when AGC has reduce the gain by
> 30 dB or more, weak signals are still well above the "bottom" of the A/D
> converter, and are decoded just fine.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
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Re: [Elecraft] FT8 and Strong Signals

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Thanks Jim, K9YC, for the detailed information.  I too concur that wide 
signals can more likely be the result of the waterfall adjustments, or 
the system gain, which has the no signal noise level above 30 dB on the 
WSJT-X bargraph indicator.  If this is the case, adjust the audio level 
in the Windows application to reduce the level.


As to AGC, I run AGC on my K3S on Fast when operating FT-8. Likewise for 
CW.   Thus I've found no disadvantage in having it on, and little to no 
advantage in having it off.   Other than I manually have to adjust RF gain.


On that note, for the most part on 160 M, 80 M & 40 M I do run 15 dB to 
10 dB of Attenuation and back the RF Gain down accordingly.  For higher 
frequencies,  60 M and above, I do not use Attenuation and adjust the RF 
gain accordingly.  This seems to produce optimum receiver performance. 
On 6 M I do engage the preamp.


73

Bob, K4TAX




On 7/17/2018 12:59 PM, turnbull wrote:

Jim,  Thank you for the solid information.
73 Doug EI2CN
PS I understand AGC should be disabled.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: Jim Brown  
Date: 17/07/2018  18:51  (GMT+00:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] 
FT8 and Strong Signals
On 7/17/2018 8:52 AM, turnbull wrote:

I agree but many people are suffering from wide FT8 signals from others with 
strong signals.

Part of this is perception rather than reality -- a failure to
understand the waterfall display. Because the waterfall displays both
signal strength and spectrum, a very strong signal may APPEAR to be
broader than it really is. I have a half dozen or so neighbors running
FT8 on 6M within about 15 miles, and all are running a power amp (mostly
KPA500, but my closest neighbor, about 5 miles, runs 1.3kW. Most of us
are running K3s. It's not uncommon for one of these signals to SEEM to
occupy 500 Hz or more, the reality is that I often decode weak signals
within that 500 Hz.

Another point. K1JT recommends setting audio level into the computer for
an indicated 30 dB on the bar graph. I think this is part of the problem
caused by strong signals taking over the AGC and greatly reducing the
gain. If, for example, a local who's 30 dB over S9, reduces the RF gain
by 30 dB, an S9 signal would be below the level of the sound card! I set
audio level into the computer for the highest level that doesn't flash
RED (indicating digital clip) on strong signals. My bar graph typically
runs 50-60 dB. With this setting, even when AGC has reduce the gain by
30 dB or more, weak signals are still well above the "bottom" of the A/D
converter, and are decoded just fine.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] FT8 and Strong Signals

[turnbull]

Jim,  Thank you for the solid information.
73 Doug EI2CN
PS I understand AGC should be disabled.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: Jim Brown  
Date: 17/07/2018  18:51  (GMT+00:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: 
[Elecraft] FT8 and Strong Signals 
On 7/17/2018 8:52 AM, turnbull wrote:
> I agree but many people are suffering from wide FT8 signals from others with 
> strong signals.

Part of this is perception rather than reality -- a failure to 
understand the waterfall display. Because the waterfall displays both 
signal strength and spectrum, a very strong signal may APPEAR to be 
broader than it really is. I have a half dozen or so neighbors running 
FT8 on 6M within about 15 miles, and all are running a power amp (mostly 
KPA500, but my closest neighbor, about 5 miles, runs 1.3kW. Most of us 
are running K3s. It's not uncommon for one of these signals to SEEM to 
occupy 500 Hz or more, the reality is that I often decode weak signals 
within that 500 Hz.

Another point. K1JT recommends setting audio level into the computer for 
an indicated 30 dB on the bar graph. I think this is part of the problem 
caused by strong signals taking over the AGC and greatly reducing the 
gain. If, for example, a local who's 30 dB over S9, reduces the RF gain 
by 30 dB, an S9 signal would be below the level of the sound card! I set 
audio level into the computer for the highest level that doesn't flash 
RED (indicating digital clip) on strong signals. My bar graph typically 
runs 50-60 dB. With this setting, even when AGC has reduce the gain by 
30 dB or more, weak signals are still well above the "bottom" of the A/D 
converter, and are decoded just fine.

73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] Call letters

[Don Roberts via Elecraft]

WGH Hampton came back after surrendering to a 4 letter call

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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[Elecraft] FT8 and Strong Signals

[Jim Brown]

On 7/17/2018 8:52 AM, turnbull wrote:

I agree but many people are suffering from wide FT8 signals from others with 
strong signals.


Part of this is perception rather than reality -- a failure to 
understand the waterfall display. Because the waterfall displays both 
signal strength and spectrum, a very strong signal may APPEAR to be 
broader than it really is. I have a half dozen or so neighbors running 
FT8 on 6M within about 15 miles, and all are running a power amp (mostly 
KPA500, but my closest neighbor, about 5 miles, runs 1.3kW. Most of us 
are running K3s. It's not uncommon for one of these signals to SEEM to 
occupy 500 Hz or more, the reality is that I often decode weak signals 
within that 500 Hz.


Another point. K1JT recommends setting audio level into the computer for 
an indicated 30 dB on the bar graph. I think this is part of the problem 
caused by strong signals taking over the AGC and greatly reducing the 
gain. If, for example, a local who's 30 dB over S9, reduces the RF gain 
by 30 dB, an S9 signal would be below the level of the sound card! I set 
audio level into the computer for the highest level that doesn't flash 
RED (indicating digital clip) on strong signals. My bar graph typically 
runs 50-60 dB. With this setting, even when AGC has reduce the gain by 
30 dB or more, weak signals are still well above the "bottom" of the A/D 
converter, and are decoded just fine.


73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] OT: Weak Signal v. Low Power

[Wes Stewart]

In deference to the OP in the KPA500 clicking thread...

Having once operated EME (on CW) and meteor and tropo scatter, I can say that 
terrestrial path loss is not necessarily lower than the EME path.  Many years 
ago, W7UBI (SK) in Boise, ID and I ran twice-weekly two-meter MS schedules for 
over a year.  We both had EME capable stations.  The distance between up was 
about 850 miles, an easy MS distance but extreme for tropo.  If memory serves, 
our rate of completion of valid MS QSOs was in the neighborhood of 30-35%.  But 
what was interesting was that there were times when residual (tropo) signals 
were readable.  The point is that for either terrestrial mode, high power was 
both appropriate and necessary.  I should add that in addition to path loss, 
terrestrial noise is also an issue to be overcome.


As to the broad (wide) signals, those are not necessarily caused by strong 
signals but weak receivers.


Wes  N7WS


On 7/17/2018 8:59 AM, turnbull wrote:

EME boys fave a lot of patb loss and their Yagis point to the moon.   For 
terrestrial worm, the path loss is generally much lower and especially when 
there are othdf local hams or good propagation the signal levels can be high.   
This often leads to excessively wide signals on different audio frequencies.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: "Dave Cole (NK7Z)"  
Date: 17/07/2018  15:30  (GMT+00:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 
KPA500 thermal clicks
yes...  Weak Signal, not low power.  The EME boys use 1 KW.

73s and thanks,
Dave
NK7Z
https://www.nk7z.net


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[Elecraft] FT8 and Transmit Power

[Jim Brown]

FT8 was designed for several applications. First, for double-hop E-skip 
on 6M, where openings are often brief and not very strong. Second, for 
weak signal conditions, and conditions on any band where the path is 
noise-limited. This is generally true of ALL of the WSJT modes -- legal 
limit is often used on VHF for moon-bounce, meteor scatter, and tropo 
communications.  Note that WEAK SIGNAL does NOT mean QRP.


FT8 has signal to noise immunity that I would estimate as 6-10 dB better 
than excellent CW operators on both ends of the QSO.  When used on the 
HF bands, fairly low TX power is generally enough. But when used on 6M 
and 160M, it's common to run whatever power is needed to make the QSO. I 
run my KPA500 at 500W on 6M, and I'm running a borrowed KPA1500 at 1.4 kW.


I don't generally use FT8 on the HF bands, although I did to work KH1 
last month. My experience on 6M has been that even though I'm running 
high power, my signal report, which is based on signal to noise at the 
other end, is usually 6-10 dB worse than the report that I send.  
Yesterday, for example, I failed to finish three 6M QSOs because the 
other station, who was reading -14 dB, couldn't copy me!  Sadly, it has 
become increasingly common for us to have very high noise levels, 
resulting from switch-mode power supplies, solar power systems, 
variable-speed motor controllers, leaking from CATV systems, defective 
components on power lines, and a host of other sources.


73, Jim K9YC

I thought FT8 was a low power mode.   Am I wrong?   I am not referring to Fox 
Hound mode.


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

No, FT-8 is a weak signal mode.  That is not the same as a low power mode. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 17, 2018, at 9:15 AM, turnbull  wrote:
> 
> I thought FT8 was a low power mode.   Am I wrong?   I am not referring to Fox 
> Hound mode.
> 73 DOUG EI2CN
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
>  Original message From: Michael Blake via Elecraft 
>  Date: 17/07/2018  14:12  (GMT+00:00) To: Nr4c 
>  Cc: Elecraft Reflector , ANDY 
> DURBIN  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks 
> While possibly my imagination, after a few months of use I loosened all of 
> the Z bracket to heatsink screws and side panel to heatsink screws and then 
> retightened all of them plus the top cover to Z bracket screws.  That seemed 
> to reduce the clicking.
> 
> Very 73 - Mike - K9JRI
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jul 17, 2018, at 9:05 AM, Nr4c  wrote:
>> 
>> “Clicks” caused by the “Z” bracket are well documented and normal. 
>> Personally, I don’t find this “intolerable” or even slightly annoying. My 
>> wall clock “ticks” every second.  
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ...nr4c. bill
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jul 17, 2018, at 7:56 AM, ANDY DURBIN  wrote:
>>> 
>>> The clicking of my KPA500 is almost intolerable and I'd like to know if 
>>> what I'm experiencing is typical.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> In an FT8 TX/RX cycle  with output power 126 W my KPA500 clicks 7-8 times 
>>> during 15 second transmit and 7-8 times during 15 second receive.  In these 
>>> TX/RX cycles my logger shows the finals temperature swings between 57 deg C 
>>> and 63 deg C.   During  this test the KPA500 was seeing an SWR of 1.02:1  
>>> and calculated PA dissipation was 307 W.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I don't think this temperature swing is likely to cause the heat sink to 
>>> expand and contract significantly.  The thermal mass of the heat sink is 
>>> quite large and the heating and cooling periods are short.The first 
>>> click happens almost as soon as the KPA500 is keyed.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I think it is possible that the clicks are caused by expansion and 
>>> contraction  of the finals at their mounting points.   Is that likely and, 
>>> if so, why would it be considered normal?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> 
>>> Andy k3wyc
>>> __
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>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] SDRPlay connection to K3S

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

My measurements indicate the SDR Play input Z is well above 50 ohms and no 
degration  in signal strength was noted. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 17, 2018, at 9:16 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:
> 
> 
> You will need a (hybrid) splitter ... connect the common port of
> the splitter to the RX ANT Out jack, connect one output of the
> splitter to RX ANT IN and connect the other output of the splitter
> to the SDRPlay antenna jack.
> 
> A splitter is necessary to keep one receiver from loading the
> other resulting in loss of sensitivity.  The receivers (K3, SDRPlay)
> do not have identical input impedance across their range and one
> receiver or the other can become (relatively) deaf on certain
> frequencies depending on the characteristics of the input circuits.
> 
> There are those who will say use a BNC T ... that may or may not
> be satisfactory depending on cable lengths and receiver input
> characteristics.  Unlike a hybrid splitter, the BNC T connector has
> no isolation between output ports which allows spurious signals
> generated in one receiver to be coupled directly into the other.
> 
> 73,
> 
>   ... Joe, W4TV
> 
> 
>> On 2018-07-17 9:16 AM, Steve Muenich wrote:
>> Hello gang,
>> Is there a proper port on the K3S to connect a SDRPlay that would allow for 
>> sharing the main antenna while receiving, then be disconnected and isolated 
>> when the K3S go into transmit?
>> Thanks
>> Steve, NA5C
>> K3S 10121
>> Sent from my mobile device
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[Elecraft] K2 minor build caveat: C135 in the transmitter area

[Mark Petrovic]

I'm in the home stretch of building my K2, and wanted to point out
something that might help others as they assemble the transmitter portion
of the radio.

C135 ("103"), which sits adjacent to the 2D heat sink fastener, needs to be
installed as close to the board as possible.  Check that it is lower than
the 2D fastener, otherwise the heat sink panel may not make good contact
with Q7 and Q8.  My C135 sat a tiny bit higher than the 2D block; I ended
up shaving a very thin layer of the capacitor body with a razor blade so
that it cleared the 2D fastener.

Mark
AE6RT

-- 
Mark
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[Elecraft] KX144XV REF LOCK AND K3EXREF for K3S

[WA7SPY]

I recently put together my K3S with the KX144XV, KX144XV REF  LOCK and K3EXREF
I ran into a problem with the K3S displayed 2 meter frequency being off. There 
is some confusion with the KX144XV REF LOCK manual and K3EXREF manual as to 
where to connect the REF IN TMP cable. I contacted Elecraft tech support. I 
found out there is an ERRATA dated 03/2018 for the KE3EXREF manual which did 
not come with my option module and is not on the Elecraft website. The KEEXREF 
manual shows the REF TMP cable going to J4 on the KSYN3A board. This is 
incorrect! The REF IN needs to go to J1 on the KSYN3A board. If you plug into 
J4 the 2 meter displayed frequency on the K3S will be incorrect and off 
frequency. Hope this my help someone else.
Glenn Maclean WA7SPY
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[hawley, charles j jr]

Ok. I have a KPA500 and I never heard any clicks. I run about 400 Watts SSB 
with the fan always on #1 to start with but don’t recall hearing the fan speed 
up often.

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jul 17, 2018, at 11:26 AM, ANDY DURBIN  wrote:
> 
> If you want to talk about weak signal vs low power please start another 
> thread.  Please don't take the discussion away from the topic I started.
> 
> 
> In that new thread I'll be happy to tell you about my antenna, the signal 
> reports I received, and the QSO I struggled to complete this morning.
> 
> 
> Andy k3wyc
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[ANDY DURBIN]

If you want to talk about weak signal vs low power please start another thread. 
 Please don't take the discussion away from the topic I started.


In that new thread I'll be happy to tell you about my antenna, the signal 
reports I received, and the QSO I struggled to complete this morning.


Andy k3wyc


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Fred Jensen]

It is a "weak signal" mode [like WSPR], it will decode signals below the 
noise in an SSB channel.  It is not a "low power" mode.


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 7/17/2018 7:15 AM, turnbull wrote:

I thought FT8 was a low power mode.   Am I wrong?   I am not referring to Fox 
Hound mode.
73 DOUG EI2CN





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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[hawley, charles j jr]

Makes sense. Seems like high power isn’t in the spirit of the mode. High power 
is bound to affect many just to make that one high power but weak signal 
contact now instead of trying at another time.
As well, working all countries with high power in one evening doesn’t seem in 
the spirit either.

Chuck
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jul 17, 2018, at 10:59 AM, turnbull  wrote:
> 
> EME boys fave a lot of patb loss and their Yagis point to the moon.   For 
> terrestrial worm, the path loss is generally much lower and especially when 
> there are othdf local hams or good propagation the signal levels can be high. 
>   This often leads to excessively wide signals on different audio frequencies.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
>  Original message From: "Dave Cole (NK7Z)"  
> Date: 17/07/2018  15:30  (GMT+00:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: 
> Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks 
> yes...  Weak Signal, not low power.  The EME boys use 1 KW.
> 
> 73s and thanks,
> Dave
> NK7Z
> https://www.nk7z.net
> 
>> On 07/17/2018 07:15 AM, turnbull wrote:
>> I thought FT8 was a low power mode.   Am I wrong?   I am not referring to 
>> Fox Hound mode.
>> 73 DOUG EI2CN
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
>>  Original message From: Michael Blake via Elecraft 
>>  Date: 17/07/2018  14:12  (GMT+00:00) To: Nr4c 
>>  Cc: Elecraft Reflector , ANDY 
>> DURBIN  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks
>> While possibly my imagination, after a few months of use I loosened all of 
>> the Z bracket to heatsink screws and side panel to heatsink screws and then 
>> retightened all of them plus the top cover to Z bracket screws.  That seemed 
>> to reduce the clicking.
>> 
>> Very 73 - Mike - K9JRI
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jul 17, 2018, at 9:05 AM, Nr4c  wrote:
>>> 
>>> “Clicks” caused by the “Z” bracket are well documented and normal. 
>>> Personally, I don’t find this “intolerable” or even slightly annoying. My 
>>> wall clock “ticks” every second.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> ...nr4c. bill
>>> 
>>> 
 On Jul 17, 2018, at 7:56 AM, ANDY DURBIN  wrote:
 
 The clicking of my KPA500 is almost intolerable and I'd like to know if 
 what I'm experiencing is typical.
 
 
 In an FT8 TX/RX cycle  with output power 126 W my KPA500 clicks 7-8 times 
 during 15 second transmit and 7-8 times during 15 second receive.  In 
 these TX/RX cycles my logger shows the finals temperature swings between 
 57 deg C and 63 deg C.   During  this test the KPA500 was seeing an SWR of 
 1.02:1  and calculated PA dissipation was 307 W.
 
 
 I don't think this temperature swing is likely to cause the heat sink to 
 expand and contract significantly.  The thermal mass of the heat sink is 
 quite large and the heating and cooling periods are short.The first 
 click happens almost as soon as the KPA500 is keyed.
 
 
 I think it is possible that the clicks are caused by expansion and 
 contraction  of the finals at their mounting points.   Is that likely and, 
 if so, why would it be considered normal?
 
 
 73,
 
 Andy k3wyc
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[Elecraft] FT8

[Rick WA6NHC]

If one presumes that everyone keeps their audio levels set correctly so 
they're not splattering or wide (not always the case, but presume for a 
moment), I've had better success with digital modes by turning the AGC 
OFF, so a strong signal doesn't cause a damping reaction (it won't swamp 
the other stations).   This has worked when another station near me 
(QRP) shared the band on FT8, which would have blocked anyone else 
(worst case).


If you monitor (listen) to the band on digital, turn your speakers down 
FIRST!  ;-)


Also never use noise reduction or blanking in digital, it causes 
distortion and may often produce ghosts in the audio (you decode them on 
multiple audio frequencies).


Rick nhc


On 7/17/2018 8:59 AM, turnbull wrote:

EME boys fave a lot of patb loss and their Yagis point to the moon.   For 
terrestrial worm, the path loss is generally much lower and especially when 
there are othdf local hams or good propagation the signal levels can be high.   
This often leads to excessively wide signals on different audio frequencies.




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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[turnbull]

EME boys fave a lot of patb loss and their Yagis point to the moon.   For 
terrestrial worm, the path loss is generally much lower and especially when 
there are othdf local hams or good propagation the signal levels can be high.   
This often leads to excessively wide signals on different audio frequencies.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: "Dave Cole (NK7Z)"  
Date: 17/07/2018  15:30  (GMT+00:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: 
[Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks 
yes...  Weak Signal, not low power.  The EME boys use 1 KW.

73s and thanks,
Dave
NK7Z
https://www.nk7z.net

On 07/17/2018 07:15 AM, turnbull wrote:
> I thought FT8 was a low power mode.   Am I wrong?   I am not referring to Fox 
> Hound mode.
> 73 DOUG EI2CN
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
>  Original message From: Michael Blake via Elecraft 
>  Date: 17/07/2018  14:12  (GMT+00:00) To: Nr4c 
>  Cc: Elecraft Reflector , ANDY 
> DURBIN  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks
> While possibly my imagination, after a few months of use I loosened all of 
> the Z bracket to heatsink screws and side panel to heatsink screws and then 
> retightened all of them plus the top cover to Z bracket screws.  That seemed 
> to reduce the clicking.
> 
> Very 73 - Mike - K9JRI
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jul 17, 2018, at 9:05 AM, Nr4c  wrote:
>>
>> “Clicks” caused by the “Z” bracket are well documented and normal. 
>> Personally, I don’t find this “intolerable” or even slightly annoying. My 
>> wall clock “ticks” every second.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ...nr4c. bill
>>
>>
>>> On Jul 17, 2018, at 7:56 AM, ANDY DURBIN  wrote:
>>>
>>> The clicking of my KPA500 is almost intolerable and I'd like to know if 
>>> what I'm experiencing is typical.
>>>
>>>
>>> In an FT8 TX/RX cycle  with output power 126 W my KPA500 clicks 7-8 times 
>>> during 15 second transmit and 7-8 times during 15 second receive.  In these 
>>> TX/RX cycles my logger shows the finals temperature swings between 57 deg C 
>>> and 63 deg C.   During  this test the KPA500 was seeing an SWR of 1.02:1  
>>> and calculated PA dissipation was 307 W.
>>>
>>>
>>> I don't think this temperature swing is likely to cause the heat sink to 
>>> expand and contract significantly.  The thermal mass of the heat sink is 
>>> quite large and the heating and cooling periods are short.    The first 
>>> click happens almost as soon as the KPA500 is keyed.
>>>
>>>
>>> I think it is possible that the clicks are caused by expansion and 
>>> contraction  of the finals at their mounting points.   Is that likely and, 
>>> if so, why would it be considered normal?
>>>
>>>
>>> 73,
>>>
>>> Andy k3wyc
>>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[turnbull]

I agree but many people are suffering from wide FT8 signals from others with 
strong signals.   Joe Taylor in his application notes refered to FT8 as a low 
power mode.
Now we run powdr in the normal FT8 mode and then suffer from others doing the 
same.   I am not an expert in this but it seems there is a problem.   The stink 
given out about other locals in the greater Dublin area is bothersome.   This 
is especially true on six.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: Nr4c  Date: 
17/07/2018  16:33  (GMT+00:00) To: turnbull  Cc: Michael 
Blake , Elecraft Reflector , ANDY 
DURBIN  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks 
“Low signal” mode. Doesn’t necessarily mean “low power”. Signal strength can be 
affected by many things. 

Sent from my iPhone...nr4c. bill

On Jul 17, 2018, at 10:15 AM, turnbull  wrote:

I thought FT8 was a low power mode.   Am I wrong?   I am not referring to Fox 
Hound mode.
73 DOUG EI2CN


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: Michael Blake via Elecraft 
 Date: 17/07/2018  14:12  (GMT+00:00) To: Nr4c 
 Cc: Elecraft Reflector , ANDY 
DURBIN  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks 
While possibly my imagination, after a few months of use I loosened all of the 
Z bracket to heatsink screws and side panel to heatsink screws and then 
retightened all of them plus the top cover to Z bracket screws.  That seemed to 
reduce the clicking.

Very 73 - Mike - K9JRI




> On Jul 17, 2018, at 9:05 AM, Nr4c  wrote:
> 
> “Clicks” caused by the “Z” bracket are well documented and normal. 
> Personally, I don’t find this “intolerable” or even slightly annoying. My 
> wall clock “ticks” every second.  
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
> 
> 
>> On Jul 17, 2018, at 7:56 AM, ANDY DURBIN  wrote:
>> 
>> The clicking of my KPA500 is almost intolerable and I'd like to know if what 
>> I'm experiencing is typical.
>> 
>> 
>> In an FT8 TX/RX cycle  with output power 126 W my KPA500 clicks 7-8 times 
>> during 15 second transmit and 7-8 times during 15 second receive.  In these 
>> TX/RX cycles my logger shows the finals temperature swings between 57 deg C 
>> and 63 deg C.   During  this test the KPA500 was seeing an SWR of 1.02:1  
>> and calculated PA dissipation was 307 W.
>> 
>> 
>> I don't think this temperature swing is likely to cause the heat sink to 
>> expand and contract significantly.  The thermal mass of the heat sink is 
>> quite large and the heating and cooling periods are short.    The first 
>> click happens almost as soon as the KPA500 is keyed.
>> 
>> 
>> I think it is possible that the clicks are caused by expansion and 
>> contraction  of the finals at their mounting points.   Is that likely and, 
>> if so, why would it be considered normal?
>> 
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> Andy k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Michael Blake via Elecraft]

FT8 is a weak signal mode.  That does not always equate to low power.  I have 
seen many instances on 6M where 400 watts resulted in a -15 signal report from 
the far end.

Many of the K1JT modes started with moon bounce where it often took 1500 watts 
to get a weak signal back.

Very 73 - Mike - K9JRI







> On Jul 17, 2018, at 10:15 AM, turnbull  wrote:
> 
> I thought FT8 was a low power mode.   Am I wrong?   I am not referring to Fox 
> Hound mode.
> 
> 73 DOUG EI2CN
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Michael Blake via Elecraft 
> Date: 17/07/2018 14:12 (GMT+00:00)
> To: Nr4c 
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector , ANDY DURBIN 
> 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks
> 
> While possibly my imagination, after a few months of use I loosened all of 
> the Z bracket to heatsink screws and side panel to heatsink screws and then 
> retightened all of them plus the top cover to Z bracket screws.  That seemed 
> to reduce the clicking.
> 
> Very 73 - Mike - K9JRI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > On Jul 17, 2018, at 9:05 AM, Nr4c  wrote:
> > 
> > “Clicks” caused by the “Z” bracket are well documented and normal. 
> > Personally, I don’t find this “intolerable” or even slightly annoying. My 
> > wall clock “ticks” every second.  
> > 
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > ...nr4c. bill
> > 
> > 
> >> On Jul 17, 2018, at 7:56 AM, ANDY DURBIN  wrote:
> >> 
> >> The clicking of my KPA500 is almost intolerable and I'd like to know if 
> >> what I'm experiencing is typical.
> >> 
> >> 
> >> In an FT8 TX/RX cycle  with output power 126 W my KPA500 clicks 7-8 times 
> >> during 15 second transmit and 7-8 times during 15 second receive.  In 
> >> these TX/RX cycles my logger shows the finals temperature swings between 
> >> 57 deg C and 63 deg C.   During  this test the KPA500 was seeing an SWR of 
> >> 1.02:1  and calculated PA dissipation was 307 W.
> >> 
> >> 
> >> I don't think this temperature swing is likely to cause the heat sink to 
> >> expand and contract significantly.  The thermal mass of the heat sink is 
> >> quite large and the heating and cooling periods are short.The first 
> >> click happens almost as soon as the KPA500 is keyed.
> >> 
> >> 
> >> I think it is possible that the clicks are caused by expansion and 
> >> contraction  of the finals at their mounting points.   Is that likely and, 
> >> if so, why would it be considered normal?
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 73,
> >> 
> >> Andy k3wyc
> >> __
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Nr4c]

“Low signal” mode. Doesn’t necessarily mean “low power”. Signal strength can be 
affected by many things. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jul 17, 2018, at 10:15 AM, turnbull  wrote:
> 
> I thought FT8 was a low power mode.   Am I wrong?   I am not referring to Fox 
> Hound mode.
> 
> 73 DOUG EI2CN
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Michael Blake via Elecraft 
> Date: 17/07/2018 14:12 (GMT+00:00)
> To: Nr4c 
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector , ANDY DURBIN 
> 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks
> 
> While possibly my imagination, after a few months of use I loosened all of 
> the Z bracket to heatsink screws and side panel to heatsink screws and then 
> retightened all of them plus the top cover to Z bracket screws.  That seemed 
> to reduce the clicking.
> 
> Very 73 - Mike - K9JRI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > On Jul 17, 2018, at 9:05 AM, Nr4c  wrote:
> > 
> > “Clicks” caused by the “Z” bracket are well documented and normal. 
> > Personally, I don’t find this “intolerable” or even slightly annoying. My 
> > wall clock “ticks” every second.  
> > 
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > ...nr4c. bill
> > 
> > 
> >> On Jul 17, 2018, at 7:56 AM, ANDY DURBIN  wrote:
> >> 
> >> The clicking of my KPA500 is almost intolerable and I'd like to know if 
> >> what I'm experiencing is typical.
> >> 
> >> 
> >> In an FT8 TX/RX cycle  with output power 126 W my KPA500 clicks 7-8 times 
> >> during 15 second transmit and 7-8 times during 15 second receive.  In 
> >> these TX/RX cycles my logger shows the finals temperature swings between 
> >> 57 deg C and 63 deg C.   During  this test the KPA500 was seeing an SWR of 
> >> 1.02:1  and calculated PA dissipation was 307 W.
> >> 
> >> 
> >> I don't think this temperature swing is likely to cause the heat sink to 
> >> expand and contract significantly.  The thermal mass of the heat sink is 
> >> quite large and the heating and cooling periods are short.The first 
> >> click happens almost as soon as the KPA500 is keyed.
> >> 
> >> 
> >> I think it is possible that the clicks are caused by expansion and 
> >> contraction  of the finals at their mounting points.   Is that likely and, 
> >> if so, why would it be considered normal?
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 73,
> >> 
> >> Andy k3wyc
> >> __
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Re: [Elecraft] SDRPlay connection to K3S

[Nr4c]

Might try IF Out port on the KXv3b Panel. (Page 4, tag 35 of manual). 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jul 17, 2018, at 9:16 AM, Steve Muenich  wrote:
> 
> Hello gang,
> 
> Is there a proper port on the K3S to connect a SDRPlay that would allow for 
> sharing the main antenna while receiving, then be disconnected and isolated 
> when the K3S go into transmit?
> 
> Thanks
> Steve, NA5C
> K3S 10121
> 
> 
> Sent from my mobile device
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Re: [Elecraft] SDRPlay connection to K3S

[tomb18]

HiMiniCircuits makes them. There usually are a few on ebay. 73 Tom 


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: "Dave Cole (NK7Z)"  
Date: 2018-07-17  10:31 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: 
Re: [Elecraft] SDRPlay connection to K3S 
Joe,
Got a recommendation for one commercially?

73s and thanks,
Dave
NK7Z
https://www.nk7z.net

On 07/17/2018 07:16 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
> 
> You will need a (hybrid) splitter ... connect the common port of
> the splitter to the RX ANT Out jack, connect one output of the
> splitter to RX ANT IN and connect the other output of the splitter
> to the SDRPlay antenna jack.
> 
> A splitter is necessary to keep one receiver from loading the
> other resulting in loss of sensitivity.  The receivers (K3, SDRPlay)
> do not have identical input impedance across their range and one
> receiver or the other can become (relatively) deaf on certain
> frequencies depending on the characteristics of the input circuits.
> 
> There are those who will say use a BNC T ... that may or may not
> be satisfactory depending on cable lengths and receiver input
> characteristics.  Unlike a hybrid splitter, the BNC T connector has
> no isolation between output ports which allows spurious signals
> generated in one receiver to be coupled directly into the other.
> 
> 73,
> 
>     ... Joe, W4TV
> 
> 
> On 2018-07-17 9:16 AM, Steve Muenich wrote:
>> Hello gang,
>>
>> Is there a proper port on the K3S to connect a SDRPlay that would 
>> allow for sharing the main antenna while receiving, then be 
>> disconnected and isolated when the K3S go into transmit?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Steve, NA5C
>> K3S 10121
>>
>>
>> Sent from my mobile device
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] HELP! Need 4 each Elecraft XG3s

[Clay Autery]

*** UPDATE ***  ONLY 2 more XG3s needed!!!

So far, I have had two VERY generous offers to loan me XG3s for the 
Shreveport Hamfest Elecraft Volunteer Booth.  A big "THANK YOU!" to two 
fine gentleman Elecrafters!!!


Just 2 more, and I can fully reproduce the simulated CW traffic setup 
just like Elecraft uses.  We had such a great response from the visitors 
last year, and we are striving to make it even better this year!


Please consider helping, if you can!  If you are on the fence, I 
understand.  It's a nice piece of equipment  Call me if you'd like 
to chat about any reservations you might have!


Thanks and 73!

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 16-Jul-18 20:45, Clay Autery wrote:

I know this is a longshot, but I'm out of options.

I am putting together the 2nd Annual Elecraft Volunteer Booth at our local 
hamfest August 10-11.  SARA Hamfest in Shreveport, LA.

This year, I want to push simulated CW traffic through one of the K-Lines that 
I am setting up like Elecraft does in their booths...

I own one XG3, and I purchased the BNC Tees, BNC p-p adapters, et al. needed to 
hooke everything up  and I have the programming instructions.
BUT, I can't find any other local XG3 Signal Sources near me.

Is there anyone here on the reflector who would be willing to loan me their XG3?

I just can't afford to buy 4 more for this.  But I will reimburse USPS Priority 
shipping, take super good care of them, return them promptly after the hamfest 
and make good any inadvertent and totally unexpected loss/damage.

Just a shot in the dark here...

Thanks and 73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Wes Stewart]

You are wrong.  It is (can be) a weak-signal mode.

Wes  N7WS

On 7/17/2018 7:15 AM, turnbull wrote:

I thought FT8 was a low power mode.   Am I wrong?   I am not referring to Fox 
Hound mode.
73 DOUG EI2CN




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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[ANDY DURBIN]

"“Clicks” caused by the “Z” bracket are well documented and normal. Personally, 
I don’t find this “intolerable” or even slightly annoying. My wall clock 
“ticks” every second.  "


I'd appreciate a  pointer to any discussions of Z bracket clicks.  My search 
didn't find anything.


I have 2 clocks on the wall they tick every second.  My brain is able to 
completely tune them out.  The thermal clicks are *much* louder than my clocks 
and are not regular.  My brain locks in on them immediately.


73,

Andy k3wyc





From: Nr4c 
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2018 6:05 AM
To: ANDY DURBIN
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

“Clicks” caused by the “Z” bracket are well documented and normal. Personally, 
I don’t find this “intolerable” or even slightly annoying. My wall clock 
“ticks” every second.

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jul 17, 2018, at 7:56 AM, ANDY DURBIN  wrote:
>
> The clicking of my KPA500 is almost intolerable and I'd like to know if what 
> I'm experiencing is typical.
>
>
> In an FT8 TX/RX cycle  with output power 126 W my KPA500 clicks 7-8 times 
> during 15 second transmit and 7-8 times during 15 second receive.  In these 
> TX/RX cycles my logger shows the finals temperature swings between 57 deg C 
> and 63 deg C.   During  this test the KPA500 was seeing an SWR of 1.02:1  and 
> calculated PA dissipation was 307 W.
>
>
> I don't think this temperature swing is likely to cause the heat sink to 
> expand and contract significantly.  The thermal mass of the heat sink is 
> quite large and the heating and cooling periods are short.The first click 
> happens almost as soon as the KPA500 is keyed.
>
>
> I think it is possible that the clicks are caused by expansion and 
> contraction  of the finals at their mounting points.   Is that likely and, if 
> so, why would it be considered normal?
>
>
> 73,
>
> Andy k3wyc
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Dave Cole (NK7Z)]

yes...  Weak Signal, not low power.  The EME boys use 1 KW.

73s and thanks,
Dave
NK7Z
https://www.nk7z.net

On 07/17/2018 07:15 AM, turnbull wrote:

I thought FT8 was a low power mode.   Am I wrong?   I am not referring to Fox 
Hound mode.
73 DOUG EI2CN


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: Michael Blake via Elecraft  
Date: 17/07/2018  14:12  (GMT+00:00) To: Nr4c  Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
, ANDY DURBIN  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 
thermal clicks
While possibly my imagination, after a few months of use I loosened all of the 
Z bracket to heatsink screws and side panel to heatsink screws and then 
retightened all of them plus the top cover to Z bracket screws.  That seemed to 
reduce the clicking.

Very 73 - Mike - K9JRI





On Jul 17, 2018, at 9:05 AM, Nr4c  wrote:

“Clicks” caused by the “Z” bracket are well documented and normal. Personally, 
I don’t find this “intolerable” or even slightly annoying. My wall clock 
“ticks” every second.

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill



On Jul 17, 2018, at 7:56 AM, ANDY DURBIN  wrote:

The clicking of my KPA500 is almost intolerable and I'd like to know if what 
I'm experiencing is typical.


In an FT8 TX/RX cycle  with output power 126 W my KPA500 clicks 7-8 times 
during 15 second transmit and 7-8 times during 15 second receive.  In these 
TX/RX cycles my logger shows the finals temperature swings between 57 deg C and 
63 deg C.   During  this test the KPA500 was seeing an SWR of 1.02:1  and 
calculated PA dissipation was 307 W.


I don't think this temperature swing is likely to cause the heat sink to expand 
and contract significantly.  The thermal mass of the heat sink is quite large 
and the heating and cooling periods are short.    The first click happens 
almost as soon as the KPA500 is keyed.


I think it is possible that the clicks are caused by expansion and contraction  
of the finals at their mounting points.   Is that likely and, if so, why would 
it be considered normal?


73,

Andy k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] SDRPlay connection to K3S

[Dave Cole (NK7Z)]

Joe,
Got a recommendation for one commercially?

73s and thanks,
Dave
NK7Z
https://www.nk7z.net

On 07/17/2018 07:16 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


You will need a (hybrid) splitter ... connect the common port of
the splitter to the RX ANT Out jack, connect one output of the
splitter to RX ANT IN and connect the other output of the splitter
to the SDRPlay antenna jack.

A splitter is necessary to keep one receiver from loading the
other resulting in loss of sensitivity.  The receivers (K3, SDRPlay)
do not have identical input impedance across their range and one
receiver or the other can become (relatively) deaf on certain
frequencies depending on the characteristics of the input circuits.

There are those who will say use a BNC T ... that may or may not
be satisfactory depending on cable lengths and receiver input
characteristics.  Unlike a hybrid splitter, the BNC T connector has
no isolation between output ports which allows spurious signals
generated in one receiver to be coupled directly into the other.

73,

    ... Joe, W4TV


On 2018-07-17 9:16 AM, Steve Muenich wrote:

Hello gang,

Is there a proper port on the K3S to connect a SDRPlay that would 
allow for sharing the main antenna while receiving, then be 
disconnected and isolated when the K3S go into transmit?


Thanks
Steve, NA5C
K3S 10121


Sent from my mobile device
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[turnbull]

I thought FT8 was a low power mode.   Am I wrong?   I am not referring to Fox 
Hound mode.
73 DOUG EI2CN


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: Michael Blake via Elecraft 
 Date: 17/07/2018  14:12  (GMT+00:00) To: Nr4c 
 Cc: Elecraft Reflector , ANDY 
DURBIN  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks 
While possibly my imagination, after a few months of use I loosened all of the 
Z bracket to heatsink screws and side panel to heatsink screws and then 
retightened all of them plus the top cover to Z bracket screws.  That seemed to 
reduce the clicking.

Very 73 - Mike - K9JRI




> On Jul 17, 2018, at 9:05 AM, Nr4c  wrote:
> 
> “Clicks” caused by the “Z” bracket are well documented and normal. 
> Personally, I don’t find this “intolerable” or even slightly annoying. My 
> wall clock “ticks” every second.  
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
> 
> 
>> On Jul 17, 2018, at 7:56 AM, ANDY DURBIN  wrote:
>> 
>> The clicking of my KPA500 is almost intolerable and I'd like to know if what 
>> I'm experiencing is typical.
>> 
>> 
>> In an FT8 TX/RX cycle  with output power 126 W my KPA500 clicks 7-8 times 
>> during 15 second transmit and 7-8 times during 15 second receive.  In these 
>> TX/RX cycles my logger shows the finals temperature swings between 57 deg C 
>> and 63 deg C.   During  this test the KPA500 was seeing an SWR of 1.02:1  
>> and calculated PA dissipation was 307 W.
>> 
>> 
>> I don't think this temperature swing is likely to cause the heat sink to 
>> expand and contract significantly.  The thermal mass of the heat sink is 
>> quite large and the heating and cooling periods are short.    The first 
>> click happens almost as soon as the KPA500 is keyed.
>> 
>> 
>> I think it is possible that the clicks are caused by expansion and 
>> contraction  of the finals at their mounting points.   Is that likely and, 
>> if so, why would it be considered normal?
>> 
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> Andy k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] SDRPlay connection to K3S

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

You will need a (hybrid) splitter ... connect the common port of
the splitter to the RX ANT Out jack, connect one output of the
splitter to RX ANT IN and connect the other output of the splitter
to the SDRPlay antenna jack.

A splitter is necessary to keep one receiver from loading the
other resulting in loss of sensitivity.  The receivers (K3, SDRPlay)
do not have identical input impedance across their range and one
receiver or the other can become (relatively) deaf on certain
frequencies depending on the characteristics of the input circuits.

There are those who will say use a BNC T ... that may or may not
be satisfactory depending on cable lengths and receiver input
characteristics.  Unlike a hybrid splitter, the BNC T connector has
no isolation between output ports which allows spurious signals
generated in one receiver to be coupled directly into the other.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2018-07-17 9:16 AM, Steve Muenich wrote:

Hello gang,

Is there a proper port on the K3S to connect a SDRPlay that would allow for 
sharing the main antenna while receiving, then be disconnected and isolated 
when the K3S go into transmit?

Thanks
Steve, NA5C
K3S 10121


Sent from my mobile device
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Re: [Elecraft] SDRPlay connection to K3S

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Yes, you will need a Y cable, connect to RX ANT IN and OUT. The junction 
of the Y goes to the SDR Play.  To activate, press the RX ANT on the 
radio. This sends the ANT 1 or ANT 2 signal to the Out and then back to 
the In via the Y cable, while feeding same to the SDR play.


Works great.  I use HDSDR with OmniRig to control my K3S from the 
computer and if configured as such the SDR play follows the K3S.


In order to simplify a nest of cables and forgetting to push the RX ANT, 
I finally resorted to using the IF OUT to the SDR play. Again the HDSDR 
software allows configuring such that it tracks the K3S in all modes and 
frequencies.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 7/17/2018 8:16 AM, Steve Muenich wrote:

Hello gang,

Is there a proper port on the K3S to connect a SDRPlay that would allow for 
sharing the main antenna while receiving, then be disconnected and isolated 
when the K3S go into transmit?

Thanks
Steve, NA5C
K3S 10121


Sent from my mobile device
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[Elecraft] SDRPlay connection to K3S

[Steve Muenich]

Hello gang,

Is there a proper port on the K3S to connect a SDRPlay that would allow for 
sharing the main antenna while receiving, then be disconnected and isolated 
when the K3S go into transmit?

Thanks
Steve, NA5C
K3S 10121


Sent from my mobile device
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Michael Blake via Elecraft]

While possibly my imagination, after a few months of use I loosened all of the 
Z bracket to heatsink screws and side panel to heatsink screws and then 
retightened all of them plus the top cover to Z bracket screws.  That seemed to 
reduce the clicking.

Very 73 - Mike - K9JRI




> On Jul 17, 2018, at 9:05 AM, Nr4c  wrote:
> 
> “Clicks” caused by the “Z” bracket are well documented and normal. 
> Personally, I don’t find this “intolerable” or even slightly annoying. My 
> wall clock “ticks” every second.  
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
> 
> 
>> On Jul 17, 2018, at 7:56 AM, ANDY DURBIN  wrote:
>> 
>> The clicking of my KPA500 is almost intolerable and I'd like to know if what 
>> I'm experiencing is typical.
>> 
>> 
>> In an FT8 TX/RX cycle  with output power 126 W my KPA500 clicks 7-8 times 
>> during 15 second transmit and 7-8 times during 15 second receive.  In these 
>> TX/RX cycles my logger shows the finals temperature swings between 57 deg C 
>> and 63 deg C.   During  this test the KPA500 was seeing an SWR of 1.02:1  
>> and calculated PA dissipation was 307 W.
>> 
>> 
>> I don't think this temperature swing is likely to cause the heat sink to 
>> expand and contract significantly.  The thermal mass of the heat sink is 
>> quite large and the heating and cooling periods are short.The first 
>> click happens almost as soon as the KPA500 is keyed.
>> 
>> 
>> I think it is possible that the clicks are caused by expansion and 
>> contraction  of the finals at their mounting points.   Is that likely and, 
>> if so, why would it be considered normal?
>> 
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> Andy k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Nr4c]

“Clicks” caused by the “Z” bracket are well documented and normal. Personally, 
I don’t find this “intolerable” or even slightly annoying. My wall clock 
“ticks” every second.  

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jul 17, 2018, at 7:56 AM, ANDY DURBIN  wrote:
> 
> The clicking of my KPA500 is almost intolerable and I'd like to know if what 
> I'm experiencing is typical.
> 
> 
> In an FT8 TX/RX cycle  with output power 126 W my KPA500 clicks 7-8 times 
> during 15 second transmit and 7-8 times during 15 second receive.  In these 
> TX/RX cycles my logger shows the finals temperature swings between 57 deg C 
> and 63 deg C.   During  this test the KPA500 was seeing an SWR of 1.02:1  and 
> calculated PA dissipation was 307 W.
> 
> 
> I don't think this temperature swing is likely to cause the heat sink to 
> expand and contract significantly.  The thermal mass of the heat sink is 
> quite large and the heating and cooling periods are short.The first click 
> happens almost as soon as the KPA500 is keyed.
> 
> 
> I think it is possible that the clicks are caused by expansion and 
> contraction  of the finals at their mounting points.   Is that likely and, if 
> so, why would it be considered normal?
> 
> 
> 73,
> 
> Andy k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Wes Stewart]

Based upon my experience you will get a lot of disbelief in this forum.  
Nevertheless, I have heard similar, but under somewhat different circumstances.


See: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-clicking-td7596512.html

I can't explain your issue with this explanation unless your system is actually 
going into and out of TX during FT8 cycles. This shouldn't be, but who knows?  I 
would give it a try on CW and see if you hear it following keying.


Wes  N7WS

On 7/17/2018 4:56 AM, ANDY DURBIN wrote:

The clicking of my KPA500 is almost intolerable and I'd like to know if what 
I'm experiencing is typical.


In an FT8 TX/RX cycle  with output power 126 W my KPA500 clicks 7-8 times 
during 15 second transmit and 7-8 times during 15 second receive.  In these 
TX/RX cycles my logger shows the finals temperature swings between 57 deg C and 
63 deg C.   During  this test the KPA500 was seeing an SWR of 1.02:1  and 
calculated PA dissipation was 307 W.


I don't think this temperature swing is likely to cause the heat sink to expand 
and contract significantly.  The thermal mass of the heat sink is quite large 
and the heating and cooling periods are short.The first click happens 
almost as soon as the KPA500 is keyed.


I think it is possible that the clicks are caused by expansion and contraction  
of the finals at their mounting points.   Is that likely and, if so, why would 
it be considered normal?


73,

Andy k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

See page 14, paragraph 2 under Operation.   "...you may hear audible 
clicking sounds as the amplifier components cool.   This is normal."


Mine does, depending on the operating conditions.    I see TEMP values 
about 60º C during heavy FT-8 operation at 450 watts.  The fan 
increments to #3 during the operation.  I consider all of this to be 
normal.  I run the FAN CTL at #1.


73

Bob, K4TAX

KPA-500 s/n 3519


On 7/17/2018 6:56 AM, ANDY DURBIN wrote:

The clicking of my KPA500 is almost intolerable and I'd like to know if what 
I'm experiencing is typical.


In an FT8 TX/RX cycle  with output power 126 W my KPA500 clicks 7-8 times 
during 15 second transmit and 7-8 times during 15 second receive.  In these 
TX/RX cycles my logger shows the finals temperature swings between 57 deg C and 
63 deg C.   During  this test the KPA500 was seeing an SWR of 1.02:1  and 
calculated PA dissipation was 307 W.


I don't think this temperature swing is likely to cause the heat sink to expand 
and contract significantly.  The thermal mass of the heat sink is quite large 
and the heating and cooling periods are short.The first click happens 
almost as soon as the KPA500 is keyed.


I think it is possible that the clicks are caused by expansion and contraction  
of the finals at their mounting points.   Is that likely and, if so, why would 
it be considered normal?


73,

Andy k3wyc
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[Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[ANDY DURBIN]

The clicking of my KPA500 is almost intolerable and I'd like to know if what 
I'm experiencing is typical.


In an FT8 TX/RX cycle  with output power 126 W my KPA500 clicks 7-8 times 
during 15 second transmit and 7-8 times during 15 second receive.  In these 
TX/RX cycles my logger shows the finals temperature swings between 57 deg C and 
63 deg C.   During  this test the KPA500 was seeing an SWR of 1.02:1  and 
calculated PA dissipation was 307 W.


I don't think this temperature swing is likely to cause the heat sink to expand 
and contract significantly.  The thermal mass of the heat sink is quite large 
and the heating and cooling periods are short.The first click happens 
almost as soon as the KPA500 is keyed.


I think it is possible that the clicks are caused by expansion and contraction  
of the finals at their mounting points.   Is that likely and, if so, why would 
it be considered normal?


73,

Andy k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] Bump: P3: Macro trigger question...

[Dave Cole (NK7Z)]

Hello Bob,

Thank you for taking the time to help!

On 07/16/2018 10:20 PM, Bob Wilson, N6TV wrote:
At first I was confused because the phrase "trigger character" does not 
appear in the P3 or K3 manuals.  I guess you are connecting a USB 
keyboard to a P3's USB port (P3SVGA option must be installed), then 
using the P3 macro entry window (Ctrl-Alt-M) to save a macro and assign 
it to "Recall Key" on the PC keyboard.

Answer:
That is correct, I am connecting a USB keyboard to the back of the P3. 
I am using the term trigger as you are using the term recall key.


On 07/16/2018 10:20 PM, Bob Wilson, N6TV wrote:
Are there any (perhaps empty) text messages currently assigned to 
F9-F12?  Press Ctrl-Alt-T to enter the Text Message Entry window.  Maybe 
there's a conflict?

Answer:
That may be the problem, I was unaware the P3 would hold a message 
different than a macro, and allow assigning that message to a trigger 
character!  I will check.


On 07/16/2018 10:20 PM, Bob Wilson, N6TV wrote:
Are you saying that you created a P3 macro using Ctrl-Alt-M, assigned to 
to recall key F1 on the USB keyboard (not FN1 on the P3), and it works 
fine, but when you assign the same macro to F9 - F12, it doesn't work, 
or it won't let you save the assignment?

Answer:
Yes, when I create a macro for keyboard F1, I see that character entered 
into the window on the P3 as the trigger character.  If I backspace and 
enter F2 it works as well.  If I were to continue it would accept the 
rest of the macro.  If however I backspace, (after entering say an F1), 
and enter F8, the F8 entry is simply ignored as if I never typed a 
character, same for F9-F12.  If I backspace and type F5 it works.  THis 
is all using just the backspace key.  Anything between F9 and F12 is not 
even accepted into the P3 and shown on the macro trigger display.


On 07/16/2018 10:20 PM, Bob Wilson, N6TV wrote:
Are you using a USB connection to the K3S, with CBLP3Y connected to the 
P3 port?  It should work the same as the legacy serial port connection.

Answer:
I do not know.  This is a friends rig, so I am unaware of his P3/K3 
connection.  I had assumed it was the same as my non S K3.  I will check.


Thanks again for the help here sir, you have given me two things to 
check I was unaware of!  I will post results in a few days after I get 
back to his home!  Thank you again!


73s and thanks,
Dave
NK7Z
https://www.nk7z.net
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