[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report

[kevin]

Good Evening,

   Conditions on twenty meters were not conducive to communications.  
Lots of noise with a few types of QSB.  Normally I have very low noise, 
S2 or lower.  Today the base noise level was at or above all signals.  
QSB was rapid enough to chop up some characters.  From the sounds of 
things we were in the middle of a storm.


   Forty meters was not great but better.  QSB was not as bad, holding 
an open frequency was harder; the band can get crowded. However, the 
second net ran for about thirty minutes with signals from California, 
North Carolina, New Hampshire, and North Dakota.



  On 14050.5 kHz at 2300z:

W0CZ - Ken - ND

K4JPN - Steve - GA

K6XK - Roy - IA


  On 7047 kHz at 0030z:

K6PJV - Dale - CA

NS4V - David - NC

K0DTJ - Brian - CA

AE6JV - Bill - NH

W0CZ - Ken - ND


   Until next week 73,

   Kevin.  KD5ONS



-




Time, time, time
See what's become of me
While I looked around for my possibilities
I was so hard to please
But look around
Leaves are brown
And the sky is a hazy shade of winter

Hear the salvation army band
Down by the riverside's,
Bound to be a better ride
Than what you've got planned
Carry your cup in your hand
And look around
Leaves are brown now
And the sky is a hazy shade of winter
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[Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials

[Gary Peterson]

...”Digging in radials does not interest me. Likewise, catching them 
in lawn equipment is also a PIA. So, here is what I have done and it has 
worked well”...  Tom, WB2KLD”

I did something very similar, many years ago, after hombrewing a 40 meter 
vertical.  In order to pin the copper wire radials to the ground, I used pegs, 
made from wood dowel.

I bought some lengths of quarter-inch wood dowel and cut them into 2 inch 
lengths.  One-half inch from the end of each, I drilled a hole, large enough to 
pass the radial wire.

I threaded several pieces of dowel onto each radial wire.  As I stretched each 
wire away from the antenna base, I pounded the pegs into the grass with a 
hammer.  When finished, each radial was stretched tightly to the ground.  On 
uneven ground more pegs are required to cause the wire to adhere to the 
terrain.  Within a few weeks, the radials were no longer visible and I could 
mow over the radial field.

My reason for using wood pegs was that they were non-conducting. Thus, there 
would be no possibility of electrolytic corrosion or rectification between 
dissimilar metals.  Also, the wood pegs are, over time, biodegradable.  The 
aluminum tubing vertical antenna worked very well, until an ice storm loaded 
the guy wires so heavily that it failed.  The radials are probably still out 
there.

Gary
K0CX

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Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials

[Gary K9GS]

Or just buy some landscape staples. Used to hold down 
sod.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073F1VMHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_454ZBHA4KGC6C3HCNSMN?_encoding=UTF8=173,Gary
 K9GS
 Original message From: Bob McGraw  
Date: 1/16/22  3:23 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: 
[Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials I made a handful of staples using some 
scrap solid wire.  #10, #12, #14 works great and no need to remove the 
insulation.   Make them about 4" long per side, and place them over the radial, 
pushing them into the ground.  I agree, cut the grass short, pull the radial 
tight and "staple it to the ground".I don't care for nails, or the likely hood 
of such,  in my lawn tractor tires.73Bob, K4TAXOn 1/16/2022 11:40 AM, 
elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:> Message: 9> Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 
11:20:11 -0500> From: Tom & Barb Valosin> 
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground 
radials> Message-ID:<8d6b4b1b-cd91-59ba-c485-0f49b0d5a...@midtel.net>> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed>> Now in my mid 
seventies I have embraced the idea of conservation of> energy. Digging in 
radials does not interest me. Likewise, catching them> in lawn equipment is 
also a PIA. So, here is what I have done and it has> worked well. I trim the 
grass.? Then I use a length of string and> stretch it out along the path of the 
future radial. Next I take a> "weed-wacker" and shorten the grass a bit more. 
Now I use any old> available can of spray paint and spray a few marks along the 
length of> the string. Remember to roll up the string now - no longer needed. 
Then> I take my radial wire, make the connection at the antenna base and> 
stretch the wire out along the marked path. Depending of the> 
levelness/evenness of the surface I then take a nail and make one wrap> of the 
radial around the nail, tighten the wire so it is straight with> no loops and 
insert the nail into the dirt. Do this along the length of> the radial. 
Typically I do it about every 10 to 15 feet. In a couple of> days the grass 
grows and the wire is so low (deeply embedded) in the> grass that mowing will 
not be an issue. The entire radial system need> not be done at one time and it 
is easy to add radials if you wish. HINT> - get a grandchild to help, or a 
neighborhood youngster or a person> working toward their license or one of the 
younger club members or .> anyone but yourself. Remember however to 
compensate them for their time> and effort!>> Tom, 
WB2KLD__Elecraft 
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Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials

[Ed Deichler]

With regard to installing radials on the ground:

I used a weed whacker configured as an edge trimmer to make a cut through
the grass.  Feed the radial wire in the slit and use staples as Bob
suggests to secure the wire.  In a month or so, the grass grows over the
wire and poses no problem mowing.

73 de Ed

On Sun, Jan 16, 2022 at 8:24 PM Bob McGraw  wrote:

> I made a handful of staples using some scrap solid wire.  #10, #12, #14
> works great and no need to remove the insulation.   Make them about 4"
> long per side, and place them over the radial, pushing them into the
> ground.  I agree, cut the grass short, pull the radial tight and "staple
> it to the ground".
>
> I don't care for nails, or the likely hood of such,  in my lawn tractor
> tires.
>
> 73
>
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>
>
> On 1/16/2022 11:40 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
> > Message: 9
> > Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 11:20:11 -0500
> > From: Tom & Barb Valosin
> > To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials
> > Message-ID:<8d6b4b1b-cd91-59ba-c485-0f49b0d5a...@midtel.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
> >
> > Now in my mid seventies I have embraced the idea of conservation of
> > energy. Digging in radials does not interest me. Likewise, catching them
> > in lawn equipment is also a PIA. So, here is what I have done and it has
> > worked well. I trim the grass.? Then I use a length of string and
> > stretch it out along the path of the future radial. Next I take a
> > "weed-wacker" and shorten the grass a bit more. Now I use any old
> > available can of spray paint and spray a few marks along the length of
> > the string. Remember to roll up the string now - no longer needed. Then
> > I take my radial wire, make the connection at the antenna base and
> > stretch the wire out along the marked path. Depending of the
> > levelness/evenness of the surface I then take a nail and make one wrap
> > of the radial around the nail, tighten the wire so it is straight with
> > no loops and insert the nail into the dirt. Do this along the length of
> > the radial. Typically I do it about every 10 to 15 feet. In a couple of
> > days the grass grows and the wire is so low (deeply embedded) in the
> > grass that mowing will not be an issue. The entire radial system need
> > not be done at one time and it is easy to add radials if you wish. HINT
> > - get a grandchild to help, or a neighborhood youngster or a person
> > working toward their license or one of the younger club members or .
> > anyone but yourself. Remember however to compensate them for their time
> > and effort!
> >
> > Tom, WB2KLD
>
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Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials

[Dave Fugleberg]

This discussion reminded me of a question that I’ve often wondered about
but have never asked.
I have read that when laying out radials on or under the ground, one should
be careful to ensure that they radiate out from a central point without
ever crossing one another.

I have also read about this idea of using galvanized mesh in place of a
traditional radial field. In a mesh, the conductors not only cross, but are
bonded together at every crossing.

So, is there actually an issue if a couple radials happen to cross each
other?

Not that one would do so on purpose, but when adding radials to a system
where the existing ones are no longer visible, it could easily happen…

Curious minds want to know.


On Sun, Jan 16, 2022 at 2:55 PM Jim Brown  wrote:

> On 1/16/2022 12:19 PM, Mike Markowski wrote:
> > A construction site had left over galvanized mesh rolls that I bought at
> > great discount.  I unrolled them symmetrically about my then soon-to-be
> > installed vertical.  Easier than individual for lazy hams like me:-)  and
> > 2nd qso at 100W from Pennsylvania was Cambodia!  That qso made my day and
> > then some.
>
> Rob Sherwood, KC0B, published on this in the May 1977 edition of "Ham
> Radio," and I included his ideas in this talk.
>
> http://k9yc.com/160MPacificon.pdf
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials

[jerry]

Well,

   The concrete pad had to go in, for other reasons.  Specifically, that 
solar
field saves me thousands of dollars per year in natural gas heating for 
the swimming pool.


   I would have been a fool not to put that wire in it, while the forms 
were

open.

   By "work" I mean that the bands sound lively - people hear me and 
give me similar reports to what I give them.  Can't put it any more 
precise than that - and hams are often polite :).


   The concrete pad is roughly oriented north-south.  It's on the west 
side of a hill.  It works really well to the southwest - LA, south 
pacific, Japan - as one
would expect.  It actually works better to the west than I thought it 
would - being that the top of the hill is higher than the top of the 
antenna... and yes, I do know most of the radiation is from the 
high-current part near the bottom.


  I suspect that not having radials to the East causes the radiation 
pattern to be
higher than it might otherwise be...which might be just what it needs to 
hop over that hill.


  Still, it might be fun to try laying out some radials and see if it 
makes a difference.  Maybe with some sort of remote controlled switch to 
connect and disconnect them for A-B comparison :).


   - Jerry KF6VB











On 2022-01-16 10:41, Jim Brown wrote:

On 1/16/2022 10:21 AM, jerry wrote:

Have you actually tried one?  Mine seems to work.


Define "work." N6BT famously said many years ago that everything
"works" by quickly working all continents on a light bulb.

I was ready to put

out radials
also, but doesn't seem to be necessary.


The earth is a big resistor. A connection to it does NOT make a
transmit antenna work better -- indeed, using earth as a return adds a
resistor in series with the antenna that burns TX power, making our
signal weaker! Radials serve as both a counterpoise -- a low
resistance return for antenna current -- AND to shield the antenna's
field from the lossy earth beneath it, also minimizing the loss of TX
power.

There's a conceptual discussion of this in slides for a talk I've done
at Pacificon, Visalia, and to several large clubs.

http://k9yc.com/160MPacificon.pdf

73, Jim K9YC





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Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials

[Jim Brown]

On 1/16/2022 12:19 PM, Mike Markowski wrote:

A construction site had left over galvanized mesh rolls that I bought at
great discount.  I unrolled them symmetrically about my then soon-to-be
installed vertical.  Easier than individual for lazy hams like me:-)  and
2nd qso at 100W from Pennsylvania was Cambodia!  That qso made my day and
then some.


Rob Sherwood, KC0B, published on this in the May 1977 edition of "Ham 
Radio," and I included his ideas in this talk.


http://k9yc.com/160MPacificon.pdf

73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials

[Bob McGraw]

I made a handful of staples using some scrap solid wire.  #10, #12, #14 
works great and no need to remove the insulation.   Make them about 4" 
long per side, and place them over the radial, pushing them into the 
ground.  I agree, cut the grass short, pull the radial tight and "staple 
it to the ground".


I don't care for nails, or the likely hood of such,  in my lawn tractor 
tires.


73

Bob, K4TAX



On 1/16/2022 11:40 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

Message: 9
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 11:20:11 -0500
From: Tom & Barb Valosin
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials
Message-ID:<8d6b4b1b-cd91-59ba-c485-0f49b0d5a...@midtel.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

Now in my mid seventies I have embraced the idea of conservation of
energy. Digging in radials does not interest me. Likewise, catching them
in lawn equipment is also a PIA. So, here is what I have done and it has
worked well. I trim the grass.? Then I use a length of string and
stretch it out along the path of the future radial. Next I take a
"weed-wacker" and shorten the grass a bit more. Now I use any old
available can of spray paint and spray a few marks along the length of
the string. Remember to roll up the string now - no longer needed. Then
I take my radial wire, make the connection at the antenna base and
stretch the wire out along the marked path. Depending of the
levelness/evenness of the surface I then take a nail and make one wrap
of the radial around the nail, tighten the wire so it is straight with
no loops and insert the nail into the dirt. Do this along the length of
the radial. Typically I do it about every 10 to 15 feet. In a couple of
days the grass grows and the wire is so low (deeply embedded) in the
grass that mowing will not be an issue. The entire radial system need
not be done at one time and it is easy to add radials if you wish. HINT
- get a grandchild to help, or a neighborhood youngster or a person
working toward their license or one of the younger club members or .
anyone but yourself. Remember however to compensate them for their time
and effort!

Tom, WB2KLD


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Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials

[Mike Markowski]

A construction site had left over galvanized mesh rolls that I bought at
great discount.  I unrolled them symmetrically about my then soon-to-be
installed vertical.  Easier than individual for lazy hams like me :-) and
2nd qso at 100W from Pennsylvania was Cambodia!  That qso made my day and
then some.

73,
Mike ab3ap

On Sun, Jan 16, 2022 at 11:22 AM Tom & Barb Valosin 
wrote:

> ...Digging in radials does not interest me.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials

[Fred Jensen]

Indeed! and I've seen Tom Shiller's presentation of his "Illuminator."  
My HOA antenna at home is a 41 m end-fed wire on the top of a 2 m high 
wooden fence.  It "works" surprisingly well considering what we all know 
about antennas.  It also "works" for the HOA.  Tom even came up with a 
3-lamp "phased V-array" that also "worked" although I doubt that it 
"worked" much better than the single-lamp model that gave him WAC.


Ufer grounds were developed by Herbert Ufer [you thought it was an 
acronym? [:=)] during WW2 for lightning protection for ammunition and 
bomb storage vaults in S. AZ.  He found that encasing the earth 
electrode in concrete provided better conductivity in the bone dry soil 
than just a rod driven in. They are safety grounds.  I'm pretty sure 
they aren't very effective for antennas and RF however.


Radials follow the diminishing returns rule:  None will "work" although 
getting RF current into the antenna may be hard with none.  Going to 1 
will make a BIG difference, and 2 a not-as-big difference ... the 
contribution of the 2nd isn't as big as the 1st.  Likewise for 3, 4, and 
beyond.  Most AM broadcast stations with bottom-fed ungrounded monopoles 
use a radial field with as many as 1 per degree.  Or, you can follow the 
plan of KFBK [1530 kHz] in Sacramento CA and erect a Franklin antenna in 
a rice field.  No radials required and it's sometimes referred to as 
"The Flame Thrower of the S. Sacramento Valley."


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

Jim Brown wrote on 1/16/2022 10:41 AM:

On 1/16/2022 10:21 AM, jerry wrote:
Have you actually tried one?  Mine seems to work. 


Define "work." N6BT famously said many years ago that everything 
"works" by quickly working all continents on a light bulb.


I was ready to put

out radials
also, but doesn't seem to be necessary.


The earth is a big resistor. A connection to it does NOT make a 
transmit antenna work better -- indeed, using earth as a return adds a 
resistor in series with the antenna that burns TX power, making our 
signal weaker! Radials serve as both a counterpoise -- a low 
resistance return for antenna current -- AND to shield the antenna's 
field from the lossy earth beneath it, also minimizing the loss of TX 
power.


There's a conceptual discussion of this in slides for a talk I've done 
at Pacificon, Visalia, and to several large clubs.


http://k9yc.com/160MPacificon.pdf

73, Jim K9YC





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[Elecraft] K Line: Signal loss in a QSO

[Bob McGraw]

The logical explanation is from Keith, one of the K3 techs at 
Elecraft.   He said;  "avoid 5 watts and 50 watts" That's 
logical enough for me.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 1/16/2022 11:40 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 07:06:34 -0700
From: Wes
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K Line: Signal loss in a QSO
Message-ID:<2bd9c23b-1ee9-0976-f88e-c4dd25080...@triconet.org>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

It is not in the manual, but has appeared here many times, without logical
explanation.

Wes? N7WS

On 1/16/2022 6:52 AM,j...@kk9a.com  wrote:

I have not heard this either. Is this in the manual? 5 watts would be a
tough output to avoid if you enjoy QRP.

John KK9A

KE8G wrote:

Hmm, I've never heard that 5 or 50 watts of power shouldn't be run.

73 de KE8G - Jim


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[Elecraft] K Line: Signal loss in a QSO

[Bob McGraw]

In SSB mode, until you speak into the mike, there is no output signal in 
transmit mode.  Switch to CW mode, key the radio via an external key or 
paddle and see what you have.  Or press XMIT/TUNE function for 2 
seconds.  You should have output.   Also check to see what value of PWR 
is set on the radio.    I use 20 watts for TUNE for all bands when the 
KPA500 is in OPER  mode.



73

Bob, K4TAX


On 1/16/2022 8:01 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

Message: 6
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2022 10:15:29 -0600
From: rikoski
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: Richard Rikoski
Subject: [Elecraft] K Line: Signal loss in a QSO
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=utf-8

I have a K3, P3, KAT500 and KPA500. I was listening in the middle of a QSO and 
lost signal.

I tested my antenna with a back up transceiver and the antenna and coax are 
good.

The P3 still shows signals but only hiss comes out of the K3?s speaker.

Keying the k3 by pressing the attached foot pedal turns on the red Tx light on 
the K3 but the display on the KPA500 shows an asterisk to the left of the power 
out reading of zero on its display.

No signal goes to the antenna and nothing besides hiss comes out of the speaker.

What should I do next?

Thanks. W9ZD


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Re: [Elecraft] K Line: Signal loss in a QSO

[Geert Jan de Groot]

On 16/01/2022 18:40, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

It is not in the manual, but has appeared here many times, without logical
explanation.


It actually is in the manual, but not very clearly: K3S rev A1 manual 
page 67 (TXGN parameter), K3 rev D10 manual page 62 (TXGN parameter).


But it is not clear, it is undesired behavior, and it's something that 
can be changed by a simple software fix.


I've added the issue to the list of Elecraft issues:
https://github.com/drewarnett/kx3-firmware-issues/issues

Unfortunately Elecraft has been less than forthcoming addressing any of 
these issues, which in most cases should not be hard to fix.


73, Geert Jan
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Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials

[Jim Brown]

On 1/16/2022 10:21 AM, jerry wrote:
Have you actually tried one?  Mine seems to work.  


Define "work." N6BT famously said many years ago that everything "works" 
by quickly working all continents on a light bulb.


I was ready to put

out radials
also, but doesn't seem to be necessary.


The earth is a big resistor. A connection to it does NOT make a transmit 
antenna work better -- indeed, using earth as a return adds a resistor 
in series with the antenna that burns TX power, making our signal 
weaker! Radials serve as both a counterpoise -- a low resistance return 
for antenna current -- AND to shield the antenna's field from the lossy 
earth beneath it, also minimizing the loss of TX power.


There's a conceptual discussion of this in slides for a talk I've done 
at Pacificon, Visalia, and to several large clubs.


http://k9yc.com/160MPacificon.pdf

73, Jim K9YC





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Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials

[David Gilbert]

"Seems to work".  Sorry, but I don't know what that means. Everything 
works to some degree or other, and unless you are able to do A vs B 
testing, or can take reasonably accurate field strength measurements, 
you don't know what you actually have any more than I know what you have.


I do know that what you have is the equivalent of a single wide buried 
radial.  The whole idea of radials is to act as a near field current 
return to avoid ground losses, and your setup does that in one direction 
only.


I don't mean to make this more than it is, but a Ufer ground is a low 
impedance path for lightning to reduce the chance for lightning to take 
other unwanted paths (such as through equipment or people), and radials 
around a vertical antenna act as an RF shield (or at least alternative) 
to reduce near field ground current return losses.  As I said, they are 
not the same thing.


Dave   AB7E



On 1/16/2022 11:21 AM, jerry wrote:

Hi Dave,


Have you actually tried one?  Mine seems to work.  I was ready to put 
out radials

also, but doesn't seem to be necessary.

 - Jerry KF6VB


On 2022-01-16 10:07, David Gilbert wrote:

That post illustrates the mistake in thinking that a lightning ground
(Ufer) is the same as an RF shield (radials) to avoid ground return
losses.  They are NOT the same and they perform completely different
functions.

73,
Dave   AB7E


On 1/16/2022 9:35 AM, jerry wrote:

All,

   I had a similar situation.  The 4BTV was mounted on a pole 
pounded into
my wildland hill behind the house.  It had about 50 radials, and 
every year
when we whacked the weeds, one or two of the radials would get 
tangled in the

whacker.

   In the fullness of time, we put in a swimming pool a bit down the 
hill, and
the antenna site became a solar heating field for the pool. The 
concrete guy

poured a 70' by 10' pad for the solar heating array.

   After he built the forms, I came out with a roll of 8AWG copper 
wire.  I
laid 80 feet of it along the rebar.  I pounded my pipe into the 
earth and had

the wire come out next to it.

   He poured the concrete, and I had an "Ufer" ground.  I installed 
a brand new
6BTV, and DX Engineering's tilt base on the pole.  No radials. Works 
great!
I carefully tuned it, and then installed an MFJ998RT KW autotuner at 
the base of the antenna.


  - Jerry KF6VB


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On 2022-01-16 10:07, David Gilbert wrote:

That post illustrates the mistake in thinking that a lightning ground
(Ufer) is the same as an RF shield (radials) to avoid ground return
losses.  They are NOT the same and they perform completely different
functions.

73,
Dave   AB7E


On 1/16/2022 9:35 AM, jerry wrote:

All,

   I had a similar situation.  The 4BTV was mounted on a pole 
pounded into
my wildland hill behind the house.  It had about 50 radials, and 
every year
when we whacked the weeds, one or two of the radials would get 
tangled in the

whacker.

   In the fullness of time, we put in a swimming pool a bit down the 
hill, and
the antenna site became a solar heating field for the pool. The 
concrete guy

poured a 70' by 10' pad for the solar heating array.

   After he built the forms, I came out with a roll of 8AWG copper 
wire.  I
laid 80 feet of it along the rebar.  I pounded my pipe into the 
earth and had

the wire come out next to it.

   He poured the concrete, and I had an "Ufer" ground.  I installed 
a brand new
6BTV, and DX Engineering's tilt base on the pole.  No radials. Works 
great!
I carefully tuned it, and then installed an MFJ998RT KW autotuner at 
the base of the antenna.


  - Jerry KF6VB


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Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials

[jerry]

Hi Dave,


Have you actually tried one?  Mine seems to work.  I was ready to put 
out radials

also, but doesn't seem to be necessary.

 - Jerry KF6VB


On 2022-01-16 10:07, David Gilbert wrote:

That post illustrates the mistake in thinking that a lightning ground
(Ufer) is the same as an RF shield (radials) to avoid ground return
losses.  They are NOT the same and they perform completely different
functions.

73,
Dave   AB7E


On 1/16/2022 9:35 AM, jerry wrote:

All,

   I had a similar situation.  The 4BTV was mounted on a pole pounded 
into
my wildland hill behind the house.  It had about 50 radials, and every 
year
when we whacked the weeds, one or two of the radials would get tangled 
in the

whacker.

   In the fullness of time, we put in a swimming pool a bit down the 
hill, and
the antenna site became a solar heating field for the pool.  The 
concrete guy

poured a 70' by 10' pad for the solar heating array.

   After he built the forms, I came out with a roll of 8AWG copper 
wire.  I
laid 80 feet of it along the rebar.  I pounded my pipe into the earth 
and had

the wire come out next to it.

   He poured the concrete, and I had an "Ufer" ground.  I installed a 
brand new
6BTV, and DX Engineering's tilt base on the pole.  No radials. Works 
great!
I carefully tuned it, and then installed an MFJ998RT KW autotuner at 
the base of the antenna.


  - Jerry KF6VB


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On 2022-01-16 10:07, David Gilbert wrote:

That post illustrates the mistake in thinking that a lightning ground
(Ufer) is the same as an RF shield (radials) to avoid ground return
losses.  They are NOT the same and they perform completely different
functions.

73,
Dave   AB7E


On 1/16/2022 9:35 AM, jerry wrote:

All,

   I had a similar situation.  The 4BTV was mounted on a pole pounded 
into
my wildland hill behind the house.  It had about 50 radials, and every 
year
when we whacked the weeds, one or two of the radials would get tangled 
in the

whacker.

   In the fullness of time, we put in a swimming pool a bit down the 
hill, and
the antenna site became a solar heating field for the pool.  The 
concrete guy

poured a 70' by 10' pad for the solar heating array.

   After he built the forms, I came out with a roll of 8AWG copper 
wire.  I
laid 80 feet of it along the rebar.  I pounded my pipe into the earth 
and had

the wire come out next to it.

   He poured the concrete, and I had an "Ufer" ground.  I installed a 
brand new
6BTV, and DX Engineering's tilt base on the pole.  No radials. Works 
great!
I carefully tuned it, and then installed an MFJ998RT KW autotuner at 
the base of the antenna.


  - Jerry KF6VB


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Re: [Elecraft] K Line: Signal loss in a QSO

[Rick Tavan]

At risk of error paraphrasing prior discussions, let me try to explain:
Elecraft implemented the implicit gain calibration at 5 and 50W believing
that it was a subtle and harmless way of triggering gain cal. Users could
do it intentionally (albeit tediously) and if it happened accidentally it
would be quick and transparent, all but invisible to the user. Field
testers and others objected on the grounds that they didn't want
calibration to recur if they "accidentally" or on purpose set power to the
magic levels, clearly rather common power targets. So Elecraft provided a
switch in MENU | "TX Gain Cal via TUNE". If it's ON, you get the original,
automatic, single-band, single-power level calibration at 5 or 50W
settings. If it's OFF, you need to do gain calibration yourself. N6TV
developed a *k4cal* command-line utility that automates this process, doing
5 and 50W calibration on all bands in "one swell foop." It takes about a
minute and leaves your K4 settings exactly as they were prior to execution
except that gain cal has been done thoroughly. It provides an output report
showing how much things changed, although interpreting the numbers is left
to the student.

At further risk of perhaps providing an old link, I'll suggest
https://www.kkn.net/~n6tv/K4cal.zip as a way to get Bob's utility. If
that's obsolete, eagle-eye Bob will probably catch it and provide a better
link.  ;-)  Maybe some day this and other utilities from N6TV, Elecraft,
and others could be combined into a single, GUI-controlled package
accessible from the Elecraft Web site. But that would be a while into the
future, if ever.

73,

/Rick N6XI

On Sun, Jan 16, 2022 at 9:41 AM David Gilbert  wrote:

>
> That begs the questions of why it ISN'T in the manual or tech note
> addendum, and why it hasn't been addressed by Elecraft.
>
> Worst case, it would make more sense to have the gain calibration done
> at some odd power level like 5.3 watts and 53 watts instead of power
> levels that users would typically set.
>
> Dave
>
>
> On 1/16/2022 7:41 AM, Richard Ferch wrote:
> > You may or may not consider this logical, but: The description of the
> > transmitter gain calibration procedure in the manual does not call up any
> > special calibration menu. It just says transmit a carrier at exactly 5.0
> > watts or exactly 50 watts. Apparently the firmware uses these power level
> > settings as a trigger to do a gain calibration.
> >
> > Not wanting to do unexpected gain calibrations while operating, I have
> > always set my power to 4.9 watts when I want to operate QRP, and to 49
> > watts if I want to operate at 50 watts.
> >
> > I am fairly sure I saw a post here by one of the elecraft techs about
> this
> > not so very long ago.
> >
> > 73,
> > Rich VE3KI
> >
> >
> > N7WS wrote:
> >
> > It is not in the manual, but has appeared here many times, without
> logical
> > explanation.
> >
> > Wes   N7WS
> >
> > On 1/16/2022 6:52 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
> >> I have not heard this either. Is this in the manual? 5 watts would be a
> >> tough output to avoid if you enjoy QRP.
> >>
> >> John KK9A
> >>
> >> KE8G wrote:
> >>
> >> Hmm, I've never heard that 5 or 50 watts of power shouldn't be run.
> >>
> >> 73 de KE8G - Jim
> >>
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> >
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>
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>


-- 
--

Rick Tavan
Truckee and Saratoga, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials

[David Gilbert]

That post illustrates the mistake in thinking that a lightning ground 
(Ufer) is the same as an RF shield (radials) to avoid ground return 
losses.  They are NOT the same and they perform completely different 
functions.


73,
Dave   AB7E


On 1/16/2022 9:35 AM, jerry wrote:

All,

   I had a similar situation.  The 4BTV was mounted on a pole pounded 
into
my wildland hill behind the house.  It had about 50 radials, and every 
year
when we whacked the weeds, one or two of the radials would get tangled 
in the

whacker.

   In the fullness of time, we put in a swimming pool a bit down the 
hill, and
the antenna site became a solar heating field for the pool.  The 
concrete guy

poured a 70' by 10' pad for the solar heating array.

   After he built the forms, I came out with a roll of 8AWG copper 
wire.  I
laid 80 feet of it along the rebar.  I pounded my pipe into the earth 
and had

the wire come out next to it.

   He poured the concrete, and I had an "Ufer" ground.  I installed a 
brand new
6BTV, and DX Engineering's tilt base on the pole.  No radials. Works 
great!
I carefully tuned it, and then installed an MFJ998RT KW autotuner at 
the base of the antenna.


  - Jerry KF6VB


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Re: [Elecraft] K Line: Signal loss in a QSO

[David Gilbert]

That begs the questions of why it ISN'T in the manual or tech note 
addendum, and why it hasn't been addressed by Elecraft.


Worst case, it would make more sense to have the gain calibration done 
at some odd power level like 5.3 watts and 53 watts instead of power 
levels that users would typically set.


Dave


On 1/16/2022 7:41 AM, Richard Ferch wrote:

You may or may not consider this logical, but: The description of the
transmitter gain calibration procedure in the manual does not call up any
special calibration menu. It just says transmit a carrier at exactly 5.0
watts or exactly 50 watts. Apparently the firmware uses these power level
settings as a trigger to do a gain calibration.

Not wanting to do unexpected gain calibrations while operating, I have
always set my power to 4.9 watts when I want to operate QRP, and to 49
watts if I want to operate at 50 watts.

I am fairly sure I saw a post here by one of the elecraft techs about this
not so very long ago.

73,
Rich VE3KI


N7WS wrote:

It is not in the manual, but has appeared here many times, without logical
explanation.

Wes   N7WS

On 1/16/2022 6:52 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

I have not heard this either. Is this in the manual? 5 watts would be a
tough output to avoid if you enjoy QRP.

John KK9A

KE8G wrote:

Hmm, I've never heard that 5 or 50 watts of power shouldn't be run.

73 de KE8G - Jim


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Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials

[jerry]

All,

   I had a similar situation.  The 4BTV was mounted on a pole pounded 
into
my wildland hill behind the house.  It had about 50 radials, and every 
year
when we whacked the weeds, one or two of the radials would get tangled 
in the

whacker.

   In the fullness of time, we put in a swimming pool a bit down the 
hill, and
the antenna site became a solar heating field for the pool.  The 
concrete guy

poured a 70' by 10' pad for the solar heating array.

   After he built the forms, I came out with a roll of 8AWG copper wire. 
 I
laid 80 feet of it along the rebar.  I pounded my pipe into the earth 
and had

the wire come out next to it.

   He poured the concrete, and I had an "Ufer" ground.  I installed a 
brand new
6BTV, and DX Engineering's tilt base on the pole.  No radials.  Works 
great!
I carefully tuned it, and then installed an MFJ998RT KW autotuner at the 
base of the antenna.


  - Jerry KF6VB


On 2022-01-16 08:20, Tom & Barb Valosin wrote:

Now in my mid seventies I have embraced the idea of conservation of
energy. Digging in radials does not interest me. Likewise, catching
them in lawn equipment is also a PIA. So, here is what I have done and
it has worked well. I trim the grass.  Then I use a length of string
and stretch it out along the path of the future radial. Next I take a
"weed-wacker" and shorten the grass a bit more. Now I use any old
available can of spray paint and spray a few marks along the length of
the string. Remember to roll up the string now - no longer needed.
Then I take my radial wire, make the connection at the antenna base
and stretch the wire out along the marked path. Depending of the
levelness/evenness of the surface I then take a nail and make one wrap
of the radial around the nail, tighten the wire so it is straight with
no loops and insert the nail into the dirt. Do this along the length
of the radial. Typically I do it about every 10 to 15 feet. In a
couple of days the grass grows and the wire is so low (deeply
embedded) in the grass that mowing will not be an issue. The entire
radial system need not be done at one time and it is easy to add
radials if you wish. HINT - get a grandchild to help, or a
neighborhood youngster or a person working toward their license or one
of the younger club members or . anyone but yourself. Remember
however to compensate them for their time and effort!

Tom, WB2KLD

On 1/16/2022 9:01 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Elecraft digest..."


Today's Topics:

1. Re: Loss in window line (Paul Gordon N6LL)
2. Re: [OT] Loss in window line [OPINION] [LONG] (Ed Cole)
3. Re: New wattmeter plans? (Steve Masticola)
4. Re: New wattmeter plans? (Dan Brown)
5. Re: New wattmeter plans? (Michael Walker)
6. K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (rikoski)
7. K3 Utility vs macOS Monterey? (Don Putnick)
8. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (Dave)
9. Re: K3 Utility vs macOS Monterey? (Bayard Coolidge, N1HO)
   10. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (Linda M)
   11. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (Linda M)
   12.  New wattmeter plans? (Chuck Guenther)
   13. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (Ronnie Hull)
   14. Elecraft KPA500 sn 1910 dead. (Sam Sargent)
   15. Re: K2 Menu and Tune Buttons (Don Wilhelm)
   16. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (KE8G)
   17. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (Dave (NK7Z))
   18. Elecraft CW Net Announcement (kevin)
   19. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (KE8G)
   20. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (Dave (NK7Z))
   21. Re: New wattmeter plans? (Steve Masticola)
   22. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (j...@kk9a.com)
   23. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (Dave (NK7Z))


--

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2022 14:07:54 -0800
From: Paul Gordon N6LL 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Loss in window line
Message-ID: <70f2854a-8d7b-b9ef-d21f-f3890dfc0...@pacbell.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

Waxing about old ham lore, a "Strays" item on page 132 of the December
1946 QST has W6KA repeating advice from W3LPY and W1MJH that
"Simonizing" 300 ohm line (or using floor wax) will "eliminate the
impedance change during rainy weather."

Paul, N6LL - current Trustee of W6KA

p.s.- That would be the impedance presented to the transmitter which
changes, not the characteristic impedance of the line.

On 1/14/2022 1:22 PM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
Based on my measurements and method I used to 

Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials

[Tom & Barb Valosin]

Now in my mid seventies I have embraced the idea of conservation of 
energy. Digging in radials does not interest me. Likewise, catching them 
in lawn equipment is also a PIA. So, here is what I have done and it has 
worked well. I trim the grass.  Then I use a length of string and 
stretch it out along the path of the future radial. Next I take a 
"weed-wacker" and shorten the grass a bit more. Now I use any old 
available can of spray paint and spray a few marks along the length of 
the string. Remember to roll up the string now - no longer needed. Then 
I take my radial wire, make the connection at the antenna base and 
stretch the wire out along the marked path. Depending of the 
levelness/evenness of the surface I then take a nail and make one wrap 
of the radial around the nail, tighten the wire so it is straight with 
no loops and insert the nail into the dirt. Do this along the length of 
the radial. Typically I do it about every 10 to 15 feet. In a couple of 
days the grass grows and the wire is so low (deeply embedded) in the 
grass that mowing will not be an issue. The entire radial system need 
not be done at one time and it is easy to add radials if you wish. HINT 
- get a grandchild to help, or a neighborhood youngster or a person 
working toward their license or one of the younger club members or . 
anyone but yourself. Remember however to compensate them for their time 
and effort!


Tom, WB2KLD

On 1/16/2022 9:01 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

Send Elecraft mailing list submissions to
elecraft@mailman.qth.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
elecraft-ow...@mailman.qth.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Elecraft digest..."


Today's Topics:

1. Re: Loss in window line (Paul Gordon N6LL)
2. Re: [OT] Loss in window line [OPINION] [LONG] (Ed Cole)
3. Re: New wattmeter plans? (Steve Masticola)
4. Re: New wattmeter plans? (Dan Brown)
5. Re: New wattmeter plans? (Michael Walker)
6. K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (rikoski)
7. K3 Utility vs macOS Monterey? (Don Putnick)
8. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (Dave)
9. Re: K3 Utility vs macOS Monterey? (Bayard Coolidge, N1HO)
   10. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (Linda M)
   11. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (Linda M)
   12.  New wattmeter plans? (Chuck Guenther)
   13. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (Ronnie Hull)
   14. Elecraft KPA500 sn 1910 dead. (Sam Sargent)
   15. Re: K2 Menu and Tune Buttons (Don Wilhelm)
   16. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (KE8G)
   17. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (Dave (NK7Z))
   18. Elecraft CW Net Announcement (kevin)
   19. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (KE8G)
   20. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (Dave (NK7Z))
   21. Re: New wattmeter plans? (Steve Masticola)
   22. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (j...@kk9a.com)
   23. Re: K Line: Signal loss in a QSO (Dave (NK7Z))


--

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2022 14:07:54 -0800
From: Paul Gordon N6LL 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Loss in window line
Message-ID: <70f2854a-8d7b-b9ef-d21f-f3890dfc0...@pacbell.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

Waxing about old ham lore, a "Strays" item on page 132 of the December
1946 QST has W6KA repeating advice from W3LPY and W1MJH that
"Simonizing" 300 ohm line (or using floor wax) will "eliminate the
impedance change during rainy weather."

Paul, N6LL - current Trustee of W6KA

p.s.- That would be the impedance presented to the transmitter which
changes, not the characteristic impedance of the line.

On 1/14/2022 1:22 PM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

Based on my measurements and method I used to measure 100 ft of window
line, the loss in the line from dry to wet is frankly nil. However,
the wet line does show a velocity factory change, in effect an
electrical change in line length, and thus when connected to an
antenna, will have a small effect on the impedance at the station end
of the line.

I really think and believe many comments and opinions regarding window
line, are more "old ham lore" not based on true and complete facts.

73

Bob, K4TAX


--

Message: 2
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2022 13:09:39 -0900
From: Ed Cole 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Loss in window line [OPINION] [LONG]
Message-ID: <39843952-a667-27e3-e7d8-b3b1673c4...@acsalaska.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

Good discussion as I was thinking to use window line in my new 630m -
40m antenna.

Maybe revert to running parallel lines spaced 1-foot with spreaders only
at top and bottom of 40-foot 

[Elecraft] FS: K3S AND P3

[Lou Laderman via Elecraft]

Elecraft K3S and P3

K3S – s/n 108xx. Options include: 100w, KAT3, TXCO, DVR3, KRX3A, MH2 Mic. 
Filters in main RX: 2.8, 2.1, 1.0, 400, 250. Filters in sub-RX: 2.8. Power 
cable, manuals. 

P3 – s/n 9xx, no options. Power cable and cables needed to connect to K3 or 
K3S, manual. 

In excellent shape cosmetically and works as expected. Sold only as a set, will 
not split. Sorry, no trades, US sales only. $3699 or best offer, PayPal fee and 
shipping CONUS included. Pickup in St. Louis, MO OK. Lou, W0FK

Lou Laderman
Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] KRC2 question

[Gordon LaPoint]

When I shut off the radio (K4 or K3) the KRC2 stays selecting the 
antenna for the freequency that was last sent from the radio over the 
Aux bus.


Is there any way to have the KRC2 remove any antenna selection when the 
radio is turned off??


thanks,

Gordon - N1MGO

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Re: [Elecraft] K Line: Signal loss in a QSO

[Richard Ferch]

You may or may not consider this logical, but: The description of the
transmitter gain calibration procedure in the manual does not call up any
special calibration menu. It just says transmit a carrier at exactly 5.0
watts or exactly 50 watts. Apparently the firmware uses these power level
settings as a trigger to do a gain calibration.

Not wanting to do unexpected gain calibrations while operating, I have
always set my power to 4.9 watts when I want to operate QRP, and to 49
watts if I want to operate at 50 watts.

I am fairly sure I saw a post here by one of the elecraft techs about this
not so very long ago.

73,
Rich VE3KI


N7WS wrote:

It is not in the manual, but has appeared here many times, without logical
explanation.

Wes   N7WS

On 1/16/2022 6:52 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
> I have not heard this either. Is this in the manual? 5 watts would be a
> tough output to avoid if you enjoy QRP.
>
> John KK9A
>
> KE8G wrote:
>
> Hmm, I've never heard that 5 or 50 watts of power shouldn't be run.
>
> 73 de KE8G - Jim
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft KPA500 sn 1910 dead

[Andy Durbin]

"I have exhausted all the troubleshooting ideas that are within my 
capabilities.  I hope that another KPA500 owner may be able to provide 
information that I can use to get my amp up & running. "

Do you have the schematics and a voltmeter?   One of the first steps may be to 
ensure the low voltage power supplies are working.

Perhaps, even before that,  use a "Kill-a-Watt" or similar to see what current 
the KPA500 is drawing from the 115 V outlet.  Mine takes 0.15 A powered in STBY 
mode.

Andy, k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] K Line: Signal loss in a QSO

[Dave (NK7Z)]

Jim,

Thank you for the reference to the post confirming the 5/50 watt issue!

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 1/16/22 06:27, Jim McCook wrote:

FYI once again.  You can confirm this with Elecraft support.  Jim

https://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/msg252041.html
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Re: [Elecraft] K Line: Signal loss in a QSO

[Jim McCook]

FYI once again.  You can confirm this with Elecraft support.  Jim

https://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/msg252041.html
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Re: [Elecraft] K Line: Signal loss in a QSO

[Mike Markowski]

I will dangerously rely on memory.  I recall a discussion, no doubt one 
of many similar, simply describing the amp as most efficient at full 
power, not that any output power level should be avoided.  After all, 
every amp is designed around some quiescent current.


73,

Mike ab3ap

On 1/16/22 9:06 AM, Wes wrote:
It is not in the manual, but has appeared here many times, without 
logical explanation.


Wes  N7WS

On 1/16/2022 6:52 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

I have not heard this either. Is this in the manual? 5 watts would be a
tough output to avoid if you enjoy QRP.

John KK9A

KE8G wrote:

Hmm, I've never heard that 5 or 50 watts of power shouldn't be run.

73 de KE8G - Jim 

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Re: [Elecraft] K Line: Signal loss in a QSO

[Wes]

It is not in the manual, but has appeared here many times, without logical 
explanation.


Wes  N7WS

On 1/16/2022 6:52 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

I have not heard this either. Is this in the manual? 5 watts would be a
tough output to avoid if you enjoy QRP.

John KK9A

KE8G wrote:

Hmm, I've never heard that 5 or 50 watts of power shouldn't be run.

73 de KE8G - Jim



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Re: [Elecraft] K Line: Signal loss in a QSO

[Dave (NK7Z)]

See:

https://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2022-January/288276.html

for a reference to the original post, which I can not locate...

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 1/16/22 05:02, Dave (NK7Z) wrote:

Hopefully someone remembers the thread title, I don't.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 1/16/22 04:52, KE8G wrote:

Hmm, I’ve never heard that 5 or 50 watts of power shouldn’t be run.

73 de KE8G - Jim


On Sat, Jan 15, 2022 at 18:54 Dave (NK7Z) > wrote:


    If I remember correctly, 5 watts is a power level to avoid...  As 
is 50

    Watts.  I believe it messes with the TX calibration.

    73, and thanks,
    Dave (NK7Z)
    https://www.nk7z.net 
    ARRL Volunteer Examiner
    ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
    ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

    On 1/15/22 14:39, KE8G wrote:
 > Back the power off below the 12 watts, and see if you get 
anything.

 >
 > Same thing had happened to me today, so running K3s at 5 watts,
    and the
 > Kpa500 is putting out 80-90wstts
 >
 > 73 de KE8G - Jim
 >
 > On Sat, Jan 15, 2022 at 13:04 Ronnie Hull mailto:w5...@comcast.net>> wrote:
 >
 >> I had the exact same problem! It’s been Elecraft for a few
    months now.
 >> Hopefully I will get it back before summer
 >> W5SUM
 >>
 >> Sent from my iPhone
 >>
 >>> On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 AM, Linda M mailto:wa6...@gmail.com>> wrote:
 >>>
 >>> 
 >>> __
 >>> Elecraft mailing list
 >>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
    
 >>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
    
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 >>
 >> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K Line: Signal loss in a QSO

[john]

I have not heard this either. Is this in the manual? 5 watts would be a
tough output to avoid if you enjoy QRP.  

John KK9A

KE8G wrote:

Hmm, I've never heard that 5 or 50 watts of power shouldn't be run.

73 de KE8G - Jim

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Re: [Elecraft] New wattmeter plans?

[Steve Masticola via Elecraft]

Chuck, I'm glad you're happy with it. But the fact that KV5J is selling a 
separate box to update the W2 kind of argues for my point that the W2 needs a 
design refresh. Read the reviews on eHam and you'll see what I mean. 
https://www.eham.net/reviews/view-product?id=14820
For reference, here's KV5J's site: 
https://kv5j.com/store/product/digital-display-unit-for-elecraft-w2-watt-meter
My guess is that Elecraft will update the W2 when they can't get components to 
manufacture it any longer, and if they still want to sell wattmeters at that 
time. Same as any electronics manufacturer does.

73, -Steve WX2S


Chuck GuentherSat, 15 Jan 2022 10:01:28 -0800In terms of modernizing the 
Elecraft W2, I'm surprised no one so far has mentioned the excellent digital 
display unit offered by KV5J. The combo works great.73,
Chuck  NI0C



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Re: [Elecraft] K Line: Signal loss in a QSO

[Dave (NK7Z)]

Hopefully someone remembers the thread title, I don't.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 1/16/22 04:52, KE8G wrote:

Hmm, I’ve never heard that 5 or 50 watts of power shouldn’t be run.

73 de KE8G - Jim


On Sat, Jan 15, 2022 at 18:54 Dave (NK7Z) > wrote:


If I remember correctly, 5 watts is a power level to avoid...  As is 50
Watts.  I believe it messes with the TX calibration.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net 
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 1/15/22 14:39, KE8G wrote:
 > Back the power off below the 12 watts, and see if you get anything.
 >
 > Same thing had happened to me today, so running K3s at 5 watts,
and the
 > Kpa500 is putting out 80-90wstts
 >
 > 73 de KE8G - Jim
 >
 > On Sat, Jan 15, 2022 at 13:04 Ronnie Hull mailto:w5...@comcast.net>> wrote:
 >
 >> I had the exact same problem! It’s been Elecraft for a few
months now.
 >> Hopefully I will get it back before summer
 >> W5SUM
 >>
 >> Sent from my iPhone
 >>
 >>> On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 AM, Linda M mailto:wa6...@gmail.com>> wrote:
 >>>
 >>> 
 >>> __
 >>> Elecraft mailing list
 >>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft

 >>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm

 >>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

 >>>
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 >>
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Re: [Elecraft] K Line: Signal loss in a QSO

[KE8G]

Hmm, I’ve never heard that 5 or 50 watts of power shouldn’t be run.

73 de KE8G - Jim


On Sat, Jan 15, 2022 at 18:54 Dave (NK7Z)  wrote:

> If I remember correctly, 5 watts is a power level to avoid...  As is 50
> Watts.  I believe it messes with the TX calibration.
>
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> https://www.nk7z.net
> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
>
> On 1/15/22 14:39, KE8G wrote:
> > Back the power off below the 12 watts, and see if you get anything.
> >
> > Same thing had happened to me today, so running K3s at 5 watts, and the
> > Kpa500 is putting out 80-90wstts
> >
> > 73 de KE8G - Jim
> >
> > On Sat, Jan 15, 2022 at 13:04 Ronnie Hull  wrote:
> >
> >> I had the exact same problem! It’s been Elecraft for a few months now.
> >> Hopefully I will get it back before summer
> >> W5SUM
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>> On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 AM, Linda M  wrote:
> >>>
> >>> 
> >>> __
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> >>
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