Re: [Elecraft] KPA 500 - Normal behavior?

[Brett Howard]

The pinout of the cable that should be used is in the manual.  That pinout
illustrates the lines that should be connected and NO other lines other
than that which are displayed in the manual should be connected.

~Brett (N7MG)


On Tue, Jan 15, 2013 at 10:10 AM, Lu Romero lrom...@ij.net wrote:

 All:

 Thanks for all your input.  Big thank you to Richard VE3KI
 for his excellent email which should be in the manual
 verbatim, frankly!

 I have heard from Elecraft Support, and the factory says
 that the only pins that are disabled on a standard KPAK3AUX
 cable are as follows:

 Pins 1, 6, 7, 8 and optionally on some cables, 4

 If you need external PTT, you can use the interruptor to
 disable pin 10.

 Pin 11 can be used with a macro to remotely turn the KPA on
 and off via DIGOUT1

 I disconnected my pin 8 and the power issue I illustrated
 went completely away.

 Thought you all would want to know in case others walk in my
 footsteps in the future.

 Best 73

 Lu Romero - W4LT
 K-Line and a K1



 Message: 12
 Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 14:45:53 +
 From: hawley, charles j jr c-haw...@illinois.edu
 To: lrom...@ij.net lrom...@ij.net,
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA 500 - Normal behavior?
 Message-ID:

 276d3d6c9d5c8c4484211e9839fde1ab0cf83...@citesmbx5.ad.uillinois.edu
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

 I don't have any of that behavior. I can turn one on/off or
 the other.
 I think you have more pins connected that Elecraft does not
 connect with their
 cable...probably pin #8.

 Chuck, KE9UW
 Lionel Trains, TCA, LCCA, LRRC
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles BMWMOA #224


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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] 160/80 meter SMT mod

[Brett Howard]

I've found the large hoof type soldering iron tips are best for soldering
the tiniest of parts and they also make it very easy to set the hoof over
the top of parts and just peel them off.  You can use the hole to set it
over the device.  Our technician who does nothing but solder 0201 to 0603
devices and hardcore rework all day long uses a VERY large hoof type tip
that can set over parts as large as 0805.  Once you learn to use a large
tip to work with small stuff its kinda hard to go back.  It also makes it
well easier to work on some of our higher frequency designs where there are
more and more layers with really dense ground structures on many layers.

~Brett


On Tue, Jan 15, 2013 at 8:48 PM, Jessie Oberreuter 
joberreu-elecr...@moselle.com wrote:


  An easy way to remove SMT parts with a traditional iron is to use a
 small piece of wire to create a solder bridge across both ends of the part.
  This will conduct the heat to both pads and then you can just lift the
 part off the board :).  -kb7psg.



 On Sat, 12 Jan 2013, John Fritze wrote:

  I got some time today to look at the back side of the RF board, and yes
 it's pretty tight but the mod went well with no problems.  I ordered the
 parts (and spares) from Mouser with a couple of smaller tips for my
 Weller.


 Removal of the old parts was accomplished by moving back and forth between
 both ends of each part until I could push them off the board. Everything
 came off so cleanly that there was very little clean up on the pads.  I
 used some extra flux, applied with a wooden toothpick both to the pads and
 the new parts.  I put a little solder on one pad, oriented the new parts
 and lightly soldered one end.  Holding it in place with another toothpick,
 I then final soldered both ends.

 Slow, carefully and viola' job done.  Maybe an hour or so total time.  I
 don't have any test equipment to prove a difference with the dynamic range
 on 160/80 meters, but I regularly have wall to wall noise on those bands
 so
 it will be interesting to see what improvement there is.

 For those considering making the change themselves, I have only had
 minimal
 experience with SMT but am familiar with working with tiny stuff in my
 business.  I am proficient at home brewing.

 --
 John Fritze Jr
 K2QY
 AARA president 2013
 ACACES secretary 2013
 Albany County RACES Radio Officer
 ARES ENY DEC Northern District
 ARES Albany County EC
 Hudson Div. Asst. Director
 Twitter: @k2qy
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA 500 - Normal behavior?

[Brett Howard]

You are using a DB-15HD cable that has all of the wires present.  There are
some lines in the DB15HD that should be cut.  If you get the official K3
cable from Elecraft some of the pins in the connector have been cut out.
The KPA500 manual will show you what pins should be present in a cable.
Make sure that your cable only has these pins present.  The KPA500
shouldn't turn on when the K3 turns on.

~Brett


On Mon, Jan 14, 2013 at 6:41 PM, Lu Romero lrom...@ij.net wrote:

 1170 up and running now for several months.
 I wonder if other users see what I see:

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and KPA500 ... full power out?

[Brett Howard]

KPA500 is about 13dB so if you can get about 12 watts out of your KX3
you'll get about 250 out of your KPA500.

~Brett (N7MG)


On Mon, Jan 14, 2013 at 7:33 PM, Terry Domae terry.do...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi - I was wondering if there were any plans for what I'll call a KX3
 interface/adapter to the KPA500 so that it could run at full rated output
 power?

 I know one can attach a number of automatic amps that get you up to 30w,
 but not with the sort of complete integration as the K3 and KPA500.
 Also, the connections seem a bit cumbersome to have the extra
 /non-integrated amp. Or, is the filtering required too hard given the boost
 level?

 Ok, I'm sure someone will say the KXPA100 is the adapter, but I still
 believe there is some work to get the KPA500 working like it was part of
 the KX3.
 Maybe a 30w mod for the kx3 coming?

 Thanks, Terry, NS6D
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 integration with the KPA500?

[Brett Howard]

I don't see how it could without having an auxbus port.  However the KX3
may already output Kenwood data on the serial port.  If that is the case it
might work to use the RS232 port on the KPA500 to talk to the KX3.

~Brett (N7MG)


On Mon, Jan 14, 2013 at 9:42 AM, ac...@aol.com wrote:

 Does anyone know if the KX3 will eventually be integrated to work closely
 with the KPA500?
 I know it works right now putting out about 80w out with 5w in, 160w out
 with 10w in, and 200w out with 12w in.
 It would be nice if the KX3 worked as seamlessly with the KPA500 as does
 the K3!

 Mike  AC6JA


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 HV concerns

[Brett Howard]

My KPA500 sits at about 69-70V at idle.  On TX it drops to about 49-50V.
In my home that circuit sags a good bit under load.  When I go to the green
tap I get about 83V at idle and sit around 59-60V under TX.  Based on this
I believe that you'll be just a tad over if not right at 85V when you go to
the green tap.  I notice that that latest software has moved the HV max
fault point to 90V rather than 85V yet the manual still states that you
should not go over 85V.  The manual was VERY recently republished to the
site and still states the 85V max so I'd believe it best to honor that.
However even though I am able to go to the green tap in my installation I
choose to remain on the yellow tap.  I mainly do this so that when I move
the amp to other locations its in a safer position.  However there are
efficiency/thermal results that aren't without benefit as well.

I get almost no transformer hum what-so-ever when using the yellow tap and
get quite a lot of hum on the green tap.

Furthermore when doing TX thermal tests there is another interesting
difference.  On the yellow tap I can transmit at 500 watts essentially
brick on the key with no issues and the temp hovers right around 60C and
doesn't really move much at all once it hits that point.  However on the
green tap when doing the same test the KPA500 PA temp continues to rise.
It slows down greatly once it hits about 65 but it does finally reach 70C.
At which point the fan hits full speed and the temp starts to fall.  The
temp will fall till about 67C at which point the fan speed slows down
again.  The temp then rises to 70C again and the fan speeds up.  It
continually cycles between 67C and 70C with the fan speed change until I
got bored watching the test and I was at double the rated duty cycle (a
little over 20 minutes).

Any way hope this information is useful to you.

~Brett (N7MG)


On Sat, Jan 5, 2013 at 8:22 AM, Ron W3ZV w...@verizon.net wrote:

 I am running my KPA 500 on 120v. My actual line voltage is about 122v. I
 am using the yellow tap. HV with the amp in standby is about 73 volts. With
 power set to deliver 400W rtty, the voltage drops to about 58v. My reading
 of the manual indicates that the amp might start to be less than a good
 neighbor at that voltage.

 Without checking, I would guess that using another tap would set the
 standby HV higher than recommended.

 Are my concerns justified, and is the only answer decreasing power until
 the voltage sag reaches an acceptable level?

 Ron W3ZV




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 LC settings recall -- complete explanation

[Brett Howard]

i bought one a while back for about 70 bucks.  Its an IO Gear GUCE50.  I've
had varying success with it.  Currently I use it to extend my USB from my
media server into the living room to allow for connection of a IR
receiver.  For a while I was also using a USB to fiber optic sound card so
based on that I think that firmware updates would be acceptable.

In Linux I'd had some issues with the computer crashing and the dmesg log
actually stated that the USB stack blew up and it said Possible EMI?.
However in Windows I'd never had any of these issues.  Once I changed my
antenna system up a bit I've had no issues what-so-ever even with 500 watts.

If you have any further questions feel free to ask.

~Brett


On Wed, Dec 26, 2012 at 2:51 PM, Dick Dievendorff die...@comcast.netwrote:

 You can retune to a prior memory setting by sending a serial command, MT
 ; where  is the frequency in kHz.

 But as you note, it requires a serial connection. But if you're not
 counting
 Tx frequency, you'd need some sort of connection to adjust the tuner...

 73 de Dick, K6KR


 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Larry Phipps
 Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2012 11:29 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 LC settings recall -- complete explanation

 I have been reading some of the KAT500 traffic and thought I'd weigh in
 with
 my particular thoughts.

 One reason to have the tuner follow the VFO is that I would like to use the
 KAT500 for receive sometimes for SWL'ing or listening to BCB. In this case,
 I can't transmit, so it would be nice to have the tuner track the VFO.

 One option is to use the utility to manually select settings, but my
 KAT500 is remoted at the base of my antenna in a waterproof box. A USB
 cable
 of the required length is not feasible, but I am looking into using a
 wireless USB extender for the task. I already have some wireless
 RS232 serial extenders, but have never tried one for USB. The prices are
 all
 over the place. Does anyone have any experience with these devices, with or
 without the KAT500? Would they be safe for flashing firmware?

 Even with the utility connected, though, there doesn't appear to be any
 easy
 way to save setups based on names or frequencies. Maybe I've missed it
 since
 I'm not using the utility.

 73,
 Larry N8LP



 On 12/25/2012 12:00 PM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
  Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2012 12:54:36 -0800
  From: Wayne Burdickn...@elecraft.com
  To: ab2tcab...@arrl.net
  Cc:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: [Elecraft] KAT500 LC settings recall -- complete explanation
(including auxBus tradeoffs)
  Message-ID:c5be2d64-b735-4503-a2bf-897794ecf...@elecraft.com
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
 
 
  So what we're talking about now is whether it would be worth sending
  frequency data from the K3 to the KAT500--at the time of keying--over
  either the auxBus or the RS232 port. The answer, IMHO, is no. In
  either case it would take approximately the same amount of time to
  send the data as it would for the KAT500 to do RF sensing of the VFO
  frequency.
 
  If someone has a better idea or would like to explain their operating
  scenario further, I'm all ears.
 
  73,
  Wayne
  N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] k3exref dependencies?

[Brett Howard]

You do not need the TCXO in order to have the external reference.  I've got
my radio setup in this manner.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, Oct 22, 2012 at 10:41 AM, John D'Ausilio jdausi...@gmail.comwrote:

 Do I need k3tcxo3 to be able to use k3exref?

 Either I'll have a good 10MHz source, or I won't be doing things that
 require that level of stability ..

 de w1rt/john
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] RX Attenuator value, and COR activation level.

[Brett Howard]

the ATTN is 10dB.  Not sure where the CORs activate however.  I do know
that I've hit them before though.. :)
Not sure if this helps you but I do also know that you can get to +20dBm
and as long as you have the extreme signal protection mod done to your
radio (or it was built after 9/1/2009) before the CORs are activated and
your ATT will be automatically engaged to protect the RX post amp.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Wed, Jun 13, 2012 at 12:52 AM, g0afh g0...@g0afh.com wrote:

 Hi,

 What is the value of the RX attenuator in the K3?

 At what level does the carrier operated relay protection operate?

 73
 Ian
 G0AFH
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Re: [Elecraft] TOM HAMMOND, N0SS, SILENT KEY

[Brett Howard]

Greatly appreciate Tom for help in the past and always loved hearing
his strong signal helping me get checked into ECN.  I couldn't really
get into ECN without him.  He will be missed!

~Brett (N7MG)


 What a loss.

 On 8/4/2011 9:04 PM, K9ZTV wrote:
 It is with a heavy heart that I report the passing of Tom Hammond, N0SS,
 at 0125 UTC Friday, August 5th.

 Tom died peacefully with his family around him at his residence in
 Jefferson City, Missouri, following many battles with cancer over the
 last 15 years.  No one I have ever known handled illness with the kind
 of optimism and faith as he did.  There are many cancer survivors alive
 today because Tom taught them how to fight the disease psychologically
 and emotionally.

 Tom was an early member of the Elecraft family with K2 serial number 008
 and continued his loyalty as one of the original beta-testers on the K3
 (also serial number 008).  Wayne once told him, Just when we think we
 have something perfect, Hammond comes along and finds a glitch for us.
 Early renditions of the K3 firmware incorporated many of Tom's suggestions.

 Funeral services are tentatively scheduled for Saturday, August 13th (a
 week from tomorrow).

 Suggestions for memorial contributions will be posted after the family
 completes arrangements tomorrow afternoon.

 Thank you all for your prayers and support these last several months.

 73,

 Kent Trimble, K9ZTV
 Jefferson City, MO


 --
 Vic, K2VCO
 Fresno CA
 http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 6M problem

[Brett Howard]

Actually bypass for the ATU is less bypass that one might sometimes
hope for and there have been times where even when in bypass the SWR
of a dummy may not look good however enabling the ATU, tuning, and
then going back into bypass can solve this issue.  This is why the
suggestions are being made even with the content of the original post.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, Jul 1, 2011 at 12:09 PM, Ross Primrose N4RP n...@aiko.com wrote:
 Seems like nobody is reading the OPs posts... He's got a high indicated
 SWR on the K3 transmitting into a known well-matched 6M antenna with the
 ATU in BYPASS And no, this isn't directed (only ) at you Bill ;-)

 73, Ross N4RP

 On 7/1/2011 2:43 PM, Bill W4ZV wrote:
 James Hall-2 wrote:
 It's like the SWR meter is just deciding to indicate high when it's not -
 and of course the output power is folded back.

 Attach a GOOD (for 6m) dummy load and press ATU TUNE.  I'll bet someone at
 field day tried to tune it into high SWR which the ATU remembers.

 73,  Bill


 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-6M-problem-tp6538409p6538777.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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 --
 FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
 transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] KXV3A vs KXV3?

[Brett Howard]

The A version is only needed if you wish to install the internal 2
Meter transverter.  Essentially the only difference is the addition of
an IF in and IF out connector on internal TMP connectors.  If you
never plan on using the 2 Meter internal transverter there is no
reason to upgrade.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Wed, Jun 22, 2011 at 2:48 AM, Gary Smith g...@ka1j.com wrote:
 Is there a link to info on the benefit of the A version?

 I just reviewed the order page  see there is the upgrade for this.
 I've been out of the loop awhile  wonder if this upgrade would be of
 interest to me.

 Thanks

 Gary
 KA1J
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Re: [Elecraft] Seapac

[Brett Howard]

We'll miss having you this year.  I'll try and remember to haul my
case up and show it off.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, Jun 2, 2011 at 9:47 AM, Rose elecraftcov...@gmail.com wrote:

 For the first time in a number of years, Rose and
 I won't be at Seapac.  It's our favorite convention
 and we have many friends there that we enjoy having
 evening dinners with.

 Last year's trip cost a bit over $700 and she sold
 only one K3 cover, but the main reason to stay home
 this year is simply the cost of fuel.

 Maybe next year.

 73! Ken  Rose
 elecraftcov...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF

[Brett Howard]

This was a known bug that was found in field test.  I submitted it to
Wayne and he's all over it.

~Brett

On Tue, May 31, 2011 at 10:09 PM, Igor Kosvin k.i...@comcast.net wrote:
 Jim,
 I installed the K3EXREF today. I agree with everything you wrote. Good pair
 of tweezers took care of the lock washer. The anomaly is present exactly as
 you described. Not affecting performance, but it is there. I have MCU=4.36,
 FPF=1.14, DSP1=DSP2=2.73.
 73,
 Igor, N1YX

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Sheldon
 Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 12:57 PM
 To: Elecraft Mailing List
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3EXREF

 Tracking number I got from Lisa says it is supposed to be here today.  Mail
 man should be here in a few minutes, so, following the instructions in the
 downloadable manual, I have the K3 opened up and ready to do the install.
 The hardest part of the whole thing will be re-installing that split
 lockwasher on the backside of the KREF3 board once the external reference
 mod has been mounted.  Everything else is a piece of cake.  (Actually, I
 have a magnetized pair of long tweezers that should do the job nicely.)

 As I was writing this, the mailman brought the package.  Time involved in
 opening the rig - between 5 and 7 minutes.  I had already loosened the KREF3
 board and retrieved the lockwasher.  Mounted the SMA jack on the back panel,
 ran the cable, mounted the board  hardware per instructions, plugged in the
 cable and buttoned up the radio.  Total time just shy of 20 minutes, not
 counting the study time of the manual prior to beginning.  Another minute to
 set up the menu item and make sure it was working and still 20 minutes or
 less total time.  Well written instructions and very easy to install the
 board, even with my poor eyesight.

 The Trimble Thunderbolt has been running for a bit over a month now and a
 friend of mine gave me a real nice 3' long cable with SMA connectors on both
 ends that will match up perfectly.  -

 I did notice one anomaly.  Once the * symbol started flashing, moving away
 from the REF CAL left the 4th character from the left in the VFO B display
 window flashing for every entry in the CONFIG menu.  Once you exit MENU mode
 and re-enter it, the flashing stops until you again look at the REF CAL item
 at which time it starts flashing again.  This is only a minor bug, but I
 thought it should at least be called to the attention of the programmers.

 Jim - W0EB
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Re: [Elecraft] Installed K3EXREF

[Brett Howard]

I was one of the beta testers and I tested the unit with the standard
oscillator.  I haven't run into any issues and found the fixed error
across all bands to be quite nice.  I never saw more than about 3Hz of
error no matter the frequency on the VFO dial.  Thats not to mean that
if you have a standard oscillator that is at the outside of its bell
that you may not have enough pull with the KEXTREF3 to pull things
into place.  Personally I never ran into this issue in my testing
however I will probably also get the tighter tolerance rock for use
when away from the 10Mhz reference.  I find it really nice to know
that the radio is on frequency...  However the P3 still has to warm up
before its frequency reference is accurate... ;)

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, May 20, 2011 at 7:47 PM, Dan AE9K a...@pkts.net wrote:
 Ed,

 Thanks for the response.  Let me clarify my question.  I'm wondering if the
 KTCXO3 0.5 ppm oscillator can be omitted and still get great results with
 the K3EXREF and the standard 5 ppm oscillator.  This is of interest because
 I intend to acquire the K3EXREF but do not have the KTCXO3 and would prefer
 not to buy it if it doesn't add any benefit.

 My logic: If the K3EXREF adjusts the TCXO (via REF CAL) every 4 seconds,
 then why not let it adjust the standard K3 TCXO instead of having it adjust
 the optional KTCXO3 oscillator?

 Even though the two oscillators differ by an order of magnitude in their
 error, does that error make a difference when the K3EXREF adjustments are
 every four seconds?

 ps - During your beta testing were you using the standard K3 5 ppm
 oscillator or the KTCXO3 0.5 ppm oscillator?  I didn't find mention of that
 on your web site.

 Dan
 AE9K

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Re: [Elecraft] M1-M4

[Brett Howard]

What would be even more exciting is for people who use things this
way  Why not remember the last frequency you were on in that
segment rather than simply recalling a frequency  Similar to the
way that memories 0-9 can work as band recalls then M1-M4 could become
segment recalls that actually remember where they were at the time.

Hopefully when doing the segment recall the SCAN feature wouldn't be
broken so that one could still use it to scan a band segment.

~Brett

On Tue, May 3, 2011 at 8:50 AM, Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com wrote:
 Wes Stewart wrote:

 ...Data A and AFSK A are different modes [but] recalling one or the
 other recalls the last used BW.

 Am I missing something?

 Wes,

 At present the K3 stores one bandwidth for DATA mode. I'll change this
 so it stores a separate bandwidth for each DATA sub-mode.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] 2M internal transverter stability

[Brett Howard]

Soon there is going to be an option that will allow one to synchronize
the 2Meter transverter with the K3's LO.  This should help quite a
bit.  In the event that you want stability and accuracy there will
also soon be an option that will allow one to input a 10Mhz reference
and the K3 will regularly calibrate its internal LO using the 10Mhz
input.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Tue, Apr 12, 2011 at 8:00 PM, grumss gru...@yahoo.com.au wrote:
 Gday all,
 Ive been playing with a elecraft k3 (with internal 2M).
 Im finding the 2m stability awful! (audible drift on ssb!!!) I thinking of
 putting a murata style crystal heater on the 116mhz? crystal to improve the
 drift.
 I wonder if anybody has tried this or has a better solution?
 cheers, Graham VK3XDK

 Hi Again, the modification has been tried.
 It does improve stability a little but doesnt seem to be worth the effort!!

 It seems the heat on TX is transferring to the crystal causing it to drift
 (maybe the compensation cant keep up) Raising the crystals off the board may
 help?

 There must be some other ways (any ideas anybody??)

 --
 View this message in context: 
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[Elecraft] K3 DTMF

[Brett Howard]

I've been trying to find if there is a way to do this but have been
coming up blank...  Is there a way to send DTMF tones with the K3?

~Brett (N7MG)
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 DTMF

[Brett Howard]

I'd really love to see this as an addition to the radio...  I've got a
Heil Goldline which is a nice mic but its well overkill for what is
actually necessary.  I kinda like the mic stand and all...  I gotta
admit when I went to try and bring up the command mode on a repeater
after finally getting my antenna back up I was surprised when the 0
button while keying up didn't send a tone.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sun, Mar 27, 2011 at 6:33 PM, Lyle Johnson k...@wavecable.com wrote:
 Currently, use of a DTMF-equipped microphone or generating the tones
 with an attached device. The K3 does not generate DTMF tones,although it
 could in a future firmware enhancement.

 73,

 Lyle KK7P

 I've been trying to find if there is a way to do this but have been
 coming up blank...  Is there a way to send DTMF tones with the K3?

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Re: [Elecraft] ERR 12V

[Brett Howard]

Check the crimp connections on the spade connections that slip onto
the circuit breaker inside the unit.  When I went to check mine the
other day a simple tug on the wire pulled the wire right out of the
connector.  Bought some new ones crimped them on well and I've never
had an issue since.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 12:31 AM, Laurent FERRACCI laur...@ferracci.org wrote:
 Hi

 I've got a problem with my K3 #695. Since some weeks, I randomly get
 some ERR 12V - Check circuit breaker message from time to time.

 When this error occurs, the K3 will stop transmitting, need restart,
 and restart at 12W and without split.Very annoying when you've just
 sent your call to the DX station in a pile up, and you hear him
 replying to you. That's what happenned to me this morning, the K3 was
 just switched on, so no overheat concern.

 I've read this maillist and found a number of other K3 owners
 that had the same problem. I've tried some of the tips that were
 mentionned:
 - Disconnected the lugs on the circuit breaker, cleaned the contacts,
 then plugged the wires back - Problem appeared again later
 - Disconnected the KPA3 from KPAIO3, KPAIO3 from motherboard, and
 replugged them carefully - Problem appeared again later
 - Kept the top cover off the K3 and removed its screws so that i can
 move it a little (from time to time) in hope of having a better
 contact with KPAIO3 - Problem appeared again later

 So the problem is real and i don't know how to solve it: Help !

 Thanks for your advices
 --

 Laurent Ferracci, F1JKJ
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Re: [Elecraft] Multiple Ghost Image CW Decodes While Using CW Skimmer a K3

[Brett Howard]

What do you have your Line out setting set to?  Do they get better as
you turn the Line out level down and turn up the line in level on the
PC?

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 7:54 AM, KC0W cq...@aol.com wrote:
  Been toying around with CW Skimmer, kinda an interesting program.

  Anyway, I'm receiving multiple ghost image CW decodes from the same
 station while running Skimmer. They are 1 Kc or so apart from another.
 Better stated, the same stations signal is being shown on the horizontal
 waterfall numerous times. I have tried narrowing the K3's filters, reducing
 sound card audio into Skimmer  toyed around with every other parameter with
 no success.

  Any ideas why I'm seeing the same station numerous times?



                                          Tom KC0W

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[Elecraft] K1 Battery Solution

[Brett Howard]

I'm looking for a good low weight small volume battery solution for using
with the K1.   I'd like to keep it outside the radio. I'll simply plug it
into the back of the radio to power it.  I'll probably put the same plug as
is in the radio onto a charger or just make some APP pigtails...

I'd like to be able to run the radio at full power so being able to get to
13+ volts would be great. I'd like charging to be fairly simple and safe.
I'd like the battery as well as the radio to fit into one of Rose's K2
cases... Another thing is that I would like a solution that will have decent
longevity if it's somewhat expensive. But if its a fairly inexpensive cell
then I'd put up with replacement every so often.   I'd like to be able to at
least get 4 hours at full power using normal contest operating
assumptions. I'll probably only use it casually so that should allow for
more like 7 to 8 total hours hopefully.

What solutions might you all recommend?  If you can provide links on where
the items might be purchased that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks gentlemen

~Brett (N7MG)
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[Elecraft] Custom engraved P3 Plates

[Brett Howard]

Ken did a great job on my new P3 front cover.  The only thing that
people need to know if they are installing this and didn't build the
P3 is that the screws holding the front plate on are the only thing
holding the main board into place.  Simply take the top off and hold
the board into place from the rear while removing the screws.  Then
you can set the new panel in place and replace the screws all in one
operation.  Don't forget to practice proper ESD techniques while
performing this operation.

Anyway you can see a picture that he's put on his site that I sent
him...  http://www.arkayengravers.com/elecraft/

~Brett (N7MG)
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[Elecraft] Dell D610 Laptop for Sale

[Brett Howard]

Computer is a Dell D610 1.86Ghz Pentium M PC with 2GB of RAM 120GB Hard Drive.
Everything works 100% and there is a fresh brand new legal and legit
install of Windows XP Pro SP3 on it
I don't have the original Windows install CD but I do have a back-up
of it that I can provide and there is a MS COA sticker on the bottom
but its a bit hard to read.  The Dell install CD doesn't require entry
of this value to install though.

I've installed flash, acrobat reader, the free version of the AVG
virus scanner, Thunder Bird Email client, and Open Office so you'll be
able to work with all office applications.

The computer currently has one user account Computer Owner with a
password of password and as mentioned is a brand new install of
windows.

Computer also comes with two power supplies (one to leave at home and
one for traveling), 3 batteries two main bay batteries and one
accessory battery that can be installed into the CD-ROM slot.  The
DVD+/-RW drive which can burn dual layer DVD's as well as another
accessory that allows you to replace the CD-ROM drive with a 3.5
floppy if need be.  The floppy drive can also be plugged in externally
via a USB cable.  This computer also has a REAL RS232 serial port and
a REAL parallel port along with several USB ports if further RS232
communications adapters are required.

I'd like to get $300 USD + Actual shipping for it.

Thanks for looking

~Brett (N7MG)
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 and continuous 5-15 db 'spike'

[Brett Howard]

No its not normal...  Check to ensure that your chassis pieces are no
insulated from the brackets that hold them together.  

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, 2010-10-02 at 14:33 -0700, VE3NFK wrote:
 Is it normal to have a 'spike' on frequency all the time ?
 no antenna, moves off according to CW tone, otherwise 
 on the centre freq line.  maybe it is normal?
 
 thanks
 
 John VE3NFK


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Re: [Elecraft] P3 seeing my own tx SSB

[Brett Howard]

There is a freeze feature in the menu.  Assign that item to a button.
Then do your transmission and get what you want on the screen.  When its
on the screen press the button that you assigned freeze to.  Then with
the screen frozen in place use the utility to download that image.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, 2010-10-02 at 17:09 -0400, Roy Morris wrote:
 I have tried to capture my own SSB display by pressing CAPTURE IMAGE button 
 and transmitting into the mike while the image is being formed.  I have had 
 no success.  I am using P3 Utility Windows version 1.3.9.2 and P3 firmware 
 revision 0.36.  Dale, K9VUJ, is using the MAC P3 Utility and says he is able 
 to capture his own SSB display.  Perhaps the Mac Utility is able to do this 
 while the Windows version does not have this capability.  Any thoughts on 
 this?  Roy Morris  W4WFB
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Sub Receiver Antenna

[Brett Howard]

I'm not so sure that a BPF would solve the problem even if they are on
different bands as the COR may still trip even though the subRX is on
another band...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 11:38 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
  Bill,

 My answer is not a smart remark, but rather the truth - and that
 answer is Whatever it takes!
 There are so many variables that your question cannot be answered
 specifically for your location.
 Some of the variables are antenna polarization, physical distance, gain
 of the transmit antenna and its heading relative to the receive
 antenna.  Trees, buildings and other objects that may shield the receive
 antenna from the transmit ant, proximity of feedlines, how much
 radiation is coming back on the feedline for each antenna, plus probably
 a host of other factors that I may not have thought of.

 You could make some tests using a simple pickup antenna and a field
 strength meter at your proposed location for the receiving antenna
 before placing it.  Position the temporary pickup antenna for the least
 field strength.
 Unless you have a lot of freedom in the physical location of the receive
 antenna, the simple solution may be to switch in an attenuator for the
 subRX when transmitting.  If the main and the sub are going to be on
 different bands, perhaps a bandpass filter would be a good solution -
 again, the real answer is Whatever it takes, and hopefully you can
 begin to understand why that is the only answer possible.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 9/27/2010 12:59 PM, Bill N3KKM wrote:
 The K3 manual indicates that the Sub Receiver's AUX antenna must be 
 well-isolated from the transmit antenna to avoid activating the sub's 
 carrier carrier-operated relay. From a practical, real world standpoint, 
 what is well isolated?

 Bill - N3KKM

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 level accuracy

[Brett Howard]

My XG-2 is within 1dB when tested on a recently calibrated spectrum
analyzer with MUCH less than .1dB error.  More error was introduced with
the N to BNC adapter than by the analyzer in this test.

My P3 however is quite a bit off (similar to yours) but I don't remember
the exact values.  I'm looking forward to a calibration routine.  It is
something that has been planned but other more important features such
as fixed span tuning are ahead of it.

For what the P3 is intended for it does its job very well.  Once the
amplitude calibration is in place it will do beyond its intention very
well.  

~Brett (N7MG)  

On Sat, 2010-09-25 at 16:50 +0100, Stephen Prior wrote:
 I have just run the RF gain calibration on the K3 via the utility (and
 calibrated the S meter too) using my XG-2 on 40m.  Default values of the S
 meter give S9 as it should with 50uV from the XG-2.  However, the P3 shows a
 level of -78dBm which seems to be outside the P3's published spec of +/-
 3dB.  A calibration routine for the P3 utility has been mooted for the
 future, but I am wondering whether it's normal for the level to be so far
 out.
 
 I'd be interested in what other XG-2 and P3 owners find.  The XG-2 is
 running on a new lithium button cell.
 
 73 Stephen G4SJP
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 suggestions

[Brett Howard]

Feature 1 is something that is being actively talked about with P3 field
testers...  Feature 2 already happens with the latest P3 firmware the
reference level is remembered per band.  As for feature 3 you may be
able to get by with what you want using the peak hold feature.  The
freeze feature is almost what you want but you can't move markers while
in that mode.  

~Brett (N7MG)


On Sun, 2010-09-19 at 22:06 -0700, Andy Faber wrote:
 Hi Al,
   I finally built my own P3 yesterday (#152) and it seems to work great. 
 I'd like to revive three suggestions that I think I made earlier after using 
 a prototype at P49Y in WPX CW.  These are all based on features of the Icom 
 756 Pro 2 bandscope, that I think are desirable:
 1)  Can a FN key be set to go to a preset span?  It would be very nice to be 
 able to do so, instead of having to fiddle with the span knob each time you 
 want to look wide or narrow.  How about allowing a cycling among several 
 preset spans?
 2) When one changes bands, it would be nice if the P3 automatically set its 
 reference level, so it didn't need manual adjustment.
 3) The Pro has a hold feature that freezes the display to allow you to 
 move the marker to a signal that may have disappeared.  I realize to some 
 extent the waterfall display allows that also, but it would be nice to be 
 able to do so with the spectrum display also.
   As before, congratulations to you and Elecraft on a fine piece of gear!
  73, Andy, AE6Y 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] (K3) diversity - relay click

[Brett Howard]

Yep you're probably activating your carrier operated relays because you
don't have enough separation between your antennas.  Perhaps a limiter
could help if you're not transmitting on both of them.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sun, 2010-09-19 at 23:09 -0300, Jorge Diez - CX6VM wrote:
 Hello,
 
 I am using diversity and I notice something like a relay inside the K3 when
 transmitting.
 
 Some weeks ago Don told me about a problem I has with the RX ANT IN. The
 problem was that the antenna I was using in RX ANT IN was very close to the
 TX antenna.
 
 In the case of diversity I have a 160 delta loop connected in AUX RF and a
 160 sloper connected to the ANT1.
 
 In this case the two antennas must be far away one from the other?
 
 This is the same problem I had when using a RX antenna in RX ANT IN?
 
 Thanks,
 Jorge
 CX6VM
 
 -Mensaje original-
 De: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
 Enviado el: Domingo, 11 de Julio de 2010 09:51 a.m.
 Para: Jorge Diez - CX6VM
 CC: 'Elecraft Reflector'
 Asunto: Re: [Elecraft] continuous relay click in RX ANT IN
 
 Jorge,
 
 The clicking you hear is the COR (carrier operated relay) on the RX ANT 
 activating to protect the K3 receiver. 
 Your 40 mtr Yagi is picking up much more of your TX signal than the 
 Beverage. 
 You should take steps to reduce the amount of TX signal picked up by the 
 RX ant.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Susan's audio complaint

[Brett Howard]

I've had the same experience and the LPF board being added to my DSP
board is what was the final nail in the coffin to the annoying sound.
The low audio extension by changing caps here and there helped a
little but the low pass filter to help pull the high frequency stuff
out of the audio signature.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 8:49 PM, Mike Scott m...@paxsen.com wrote:
 I agree with Lou about Susan's CW audio complaint but I did not once. When I
 read Susan's plaint I thought that she probably has not gone through the K3
 audio modifications. There was a time that I could not listen to the K3 in
 CW mode for very long; it was like fingernails scratching on a blackboard.
 The sound so grated on my nerves that I needed to turn it off or stop
 operating CW altogether. Somewhere along the path after the audio low pass
 filter, the audio output coupling capacitor modifications, and firmware
 modifications enhancing LF response the K3 CW mode audio mellowed for me,
 actually night and day. The other thing that make a difference is AGC
 settings. AGC settings effect IF gain which can raise background noise
 level. All of the comments about running RF gain lower come to play also but
 I now find that I normally run full RF gain and I am not bothered by audio
 issues anymore.



 So Susan, what have you done to fix your audio problems in CW? I propose
 that you can remedy this.





I'm surprised you find the CW mode so noisy.  I find that one of the best

 things about the DSP in CW mode is that the more you narrow it, the more the

 noise disappears.  If the signal is strong enough, I can get rid of the

 noise completely.  Lou WA3MIX



 AE6WA

 Mike Scott

 Tarzana, CA



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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] [P3] New Beta Firmware

[Brett Howard]

Its in field testing right now...  Give it time and I'm sure something
will be hitting beta in the not too distant future...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, Sep 16, 2010 at 8:17 PM, Doug Joyce d_jo...@sympatico.ca wrote:
 I noticed that there is a new Beta Version 0.35 for the P3 and in reading the 
 release notes it indicates that to get the full benefit of the RS232 handler 
 changes, it ideally it should be used with K3 firmware MCU 04.12.

 I tried to find 4.12 but can't find it on the K3 beta site.  (An F5 update 
 didn't work.)   Am I doing something wrong or is it not available yet?

 Thanks  73

 Doug  VE3MV
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 problem

[Brett Howard]

One of the K3 mods for the synth board was supposed to fix this
Did you get your K3 before this mod was put in place:

http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/ELECRAFT_Application_Note_KSYN3_ALC_Rev_A.pdf

~Brett (N7MG)

On Wed, Sep 8, 2010 at 4:29 PM, David F. Reed w5sv.d...@gmail.com wrote:
  My K3 (serial number 1476) was working fine this morning, but started
 exhibiting a problem this afternoon...

 I occasionally get a ERR PL1 message on the screen; I have the
 following behavior:

   1. other stations report my transmission is off frequency or garbled.
   2. sometimes the receive acts like there is no antenna connected
      (Noise floor at -140 db, as opposed to the more normal -120 db on
      40 meters)
   3. Sometimes the TUNE produces 0 watts out (set to 100); other times
      it gives the full 100.

 I suspect all these symptoms are related to the error message.

 I note that the rig is warm (on for a few hours) but not hot; I don't
 know if it will do this from cold, but I will try to find that out (rig
 is off now waiting to cool down to about 80 deg. F.).

 Any thoughts or suggestions?

 Thanks and 73 de Dave, W5SV
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 IC identification

[Brett Howard]

Actually the parts do need to be proper machine readable and thus why
some of the annoying to the eye stuff is used.  We use an AOI machine
that actually takes a photo of every part and compares it to a known
good image (told to it by a person when the first good board was
loaded into it).  Then the computer will tell you if a part is loaded
w/ pin 1 in the wrong place and it will catch the tiniest solder
bridges or missing components or miss registered and it prints out a
rework needed report that goes off to the techs to repair those
boards.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, Sep 4, 2010 at 8:37 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
  John.

 Well, I suspect the situation will get even worse with a bit of time.
 The first thing I noticed was that the resistor color coding did not
 have the color saturation that was used several years ago, and then the
 printing on the ICs became more elusive.

 If you can think like an automated insertion machine, you will have no
 problem, just expect that 100+ parts that are NE612 will be loaded into
 your hopper by someone who only reads the label on the shipment from
 DigiKey, etc.  In that case, there is no need to read the actual device
 markings.  Manufacturers are responding to the needs of the board
 assembly houses which do not need people readable markings.  We hams
 will just have to be tolerant and creative in ways to order and identify
 the parts that we order.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 9/4/2010 10:26 PM, zen...@netspace.net.au wrote:

 Hi Ross,

 I had a similar moment of worry when I looked at some of the ICs under an
 illuminated magnifying glass and just saw a blank top with, apparently, no ID
 markings.  Then by accident, I slightly tipped the top face of the IC away 
 from
 the light so the top was illuminated tangentially and voila - out popped the
 lettering in a faint silver glow.  In my case, it seemed the silver lettering
 was very difficult to see if illuminated directly with a bright light source.
 Try gently re-orienting the IC under the light and see if you can make out 
 the
 letters any better.

 73,

 John VK7JB


 
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Re: [Elecraft] ERR DVR

[Brett Howard]

in the Config Menu KDVR set to Not Inst...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sun, 2010-08-29 at 20:09 -0700, Chris Hembree wrote:
 Anyway to tell the K3 that I don't have a DVR?
 
 Chris W7CTH
 
 
 
   
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Re: [Elecraft] USB - RS232

[Brett Howard]

Whatever you get just make sure it has an FTDI chipset to minimize
your issues.  The ones that Elecraft sells now *ARE* using this
chipset.  They used to use the Prolific chipset and have since
upgraded (in my opinion) to the FTDI versions.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 8:16 PM, Chris Hembree w7...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Were are you guys buying your USB - RS232 adapters.

 Thanks
 Chris




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Re: [Elecraft] (P3) Feature request Span frequency display

[Brett Howard]

This is also on the list to be implemented... Stay tuned...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 12:52 PM, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote:
 On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 11:42 +0100 (BST), Trevor Smithers wrote:

Would it be possible to include an option under Span to display the actual
frequency of the upper and lower offsets rather than -30 +30 or whatever
has been set.

 This is also on my wish list.

 Another wish that might be tougher -- I'd like to set limits of the display
 in terms of frequency and have the RX window move across the screen rather
 than stay fixed. Now, I realize this isn't easy, but it would be QUITE
 useful.

 73, Jim K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] (P3) Feature request Span frequency display

[Brett Howard]

I've also wished for this feature to be in place...  I have a feeling
its only a matter on that one though.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sun, 2010-08-22 at 11:42 +0100, Trevor Smithers wrote:
 Would it be possible to include an option under Span to display the actual 
 frequency of 
 the upper and lower offsets rather than -30 +30 or whatever has been set.
 
 So, if you had a CF of 7.038.6 the P3 screen would show 7.008.6 - 7.038.6 - 
 7.068.6
 
 73
 Trevor  G0KTN 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3][P3] 6m Preamp and P3 on AUX Pwr

[Brett Howard]

I went to radio shack and got the relay I needed.  I then built a box
that will pass 10A to several RCA connectors (I wanted to be able to
plug the units plugged into the box into the K3 when portable with a sub
set of my goodies).  Anyway I then also got a few of the cheapy cores
that Radio Shack has there.  I put an LC filter on each port just for
fun...  I figured if I was making it it only takes a short bit of time
to put some RF filtering on each port...  I also stuck a couple big bulk
caps in there just for grins.  Then an LED to signify that its on too
(why not...).  Finally installed a suitable cord with an APP on it to
supply the 10A of power.  All in all its a useful little box and every
piece of it can be had at Radio Shack still today.

~Brett  

On Sat, 2010-08-21 at 12:09 -0500, Don Cunningham wrote:
 I would think we users are getting to a point where a good, automotive relay 
 designed for continuous duty usage would be a good idea here.  Simply use 
 the 12v auxilliary power to feed the coil of the relay and let the contacts 
 of the relay feed power from our 12v supplies.  I don't remember the stock 
 numbers of the parts, but we used these in an oilfield industrial 
 application a few years ago and had VERY few failures, and when we did, they 
 were readily available local to the unit being used.  They have a multitude 
 of mounts so they should be easy to integrate into the shack.  That's the 
 route I plan to take, that is if the relay pulls less than 500 mills, hi.
 73,
 Don, WB5HAK 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] P3. Center Freq Hold?

[Brett Howard]

That will be coming in a future software release.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, 2010-08-21 at 14:46 -0700, Eric wrote:
 I built my P3 #226 last night and I LOVE IT!  Another beautiful Elecraft 
 design. 
 
 One question--is there a way to freeze the center frequency so that it doesnt 
 move as I tune my K3?  I can't find this in the manual or by playing with it. 
   It would be great if i could look at the bottom 40 kHz of 40m while i crawl 
 around there in the middle of the night. 
 
 If not, is it possible for a future fw update?
 
 Thanks
 
 Eric WD6DBM
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Err 12V

[Brett Howard]

Check the crimp connections on the spades that connect to the circuit
breaker...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, 2010-08-21 at 20:55 +, Paul Ormandy ZL4PW wrote:
 Hi all,
 
 Yesterday, the K3 threw up the Err 12V error and bypassed the KPA3 
 module. The circuit breaker didn't pop and I was able to power off and 
 increase the power back up.
 
 This was happening on PSK with 50W and RTTY with 100W.
 
 I have yet to try digi modes in anger again today without first getting 
 some feedback. I had close to zero AGC/compression when this occurred.
 
 Any suggestions will be most welcome.
 
 Regards,
 
 Paul
 


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Re: [Elecraft] Is your P3 on the right or left?

[Brett Howard]

In all true honesty I'm probably a bit weird but I find that I really
like having the P3 on the right but then I wonk the back around a bit.
Essentially I pull the right around on a radius until the bottom right
corner of the K3 and the bottom left corner of the P3 get just close but
not touching.  I kinda like this as it makes a nice concave wrap around
button panel.  Kinda like a tri-mirror would be...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sun, 2010-08-22 at 01:45 +, Ken Kopp wrote:
 I have just completed the first combination 
 K3 / P3 cover (Ken's), and I'd like to know 
 if you have your P3 on the right or left side 
 of your K3.  I would expect that because of 
 the K3 carrying handle most will place the 
 P3 on the right.
 
 It makes no difference in the measurements
 of the cover, but it becomes important if you
 were to order one -with- a cutout for the MIC
 and / or PHONES jacks.
 
 73! Rose - N7HKW
elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 - waterfall suggestion

[Brett Howard]

This has been talked about during field testing and has been
considered.  There were no promises but once things calm down they may
have time to get to something like this.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 2:12 PM, GLEN BROWN 210g...@gmail.com wrote:
 I would not expect any new information outside of the starting display
 ... Black on the edge would ok until filled in from the top.  I just
 think that would be a much more useful dislay when tuning from the K3
 as an alternative to marker QSY.

 Glen, W6GJB


 Sent from Gmail for mobile

 On 8/19/10, Guy Olinger K2AV olin...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 And uses the resources of a PC to present it?

 On Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 1:44 PM, Nate Bargmann n...@n0nb.us wrote:
 * On 2010 19 Aug 12:30 -0500, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
 This is the normal behavior of all waterfall displays I've seen, and
 is a very familiar screen behavior.

 The Fldigi program follows the behavior Glen requests and is what I'd
 also expect to see when tuning.

 73, de Nate 

 --

 The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
 possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true.

 Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://n0nb.us/index.html
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Ref. in Jack?

[Brett Howard]

The manual clearly states that its to be an SMA.  Or at least it used to...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 1:11 PM, Milton marl...@flash.net wrote:
 It is probably reserved for a SMA connector (God forbid that its a
 mini-siemens connector).

 Milton
 AD5XD


 --- On Tue, 8/17/10, Brian Alsop als...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 From: Brian Alsop als...@nc.rr.com
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Ref. in Jack?
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Tuesday, August 17, 2010, 1:17 PM
 Anybody know what kind of connector
 is supposed to go in the REF.IN.
 hole?  It is apparently too small for a BNC.

 73 de Brian/K3KO
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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Power measurement with the P3

[Brett Howard]

Amplitude calibration is not yet implemented in the firmware.

As for SSB peaks do you have peak hold turned on when you are viewing
this?  You need to be looking at the signals with averaging disabled
(and preferably with peak hold on) in order to see the power peaks of
an SSB signal.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, Aug 13, 2010 at 12:29 AM, Al Lorona alor...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 I note my P3's amplitude readings are about 6 dB low-- that's with the IF 
 output
 switched off. I'm not sure how to calibrate it.

 Even so, the P3 gives great insight into signals and their amplitude.

 Let's say you calibrated your S-meter to read S9 with a 50 uV input
 signal. Fifty microvolts is -73 dBm in 50 ohms.

 A CW signal which is S9 on your S-meter should peak at around -73 dBm (plus or
 minus 3 dB) on the P3. But an SSB signal which is S9 on your S-meter will not.
 It will be several dB less than -73 dBm on the screen of the P3. Why?

 A CW signal is one pure tone, and all of the power is concentrated in that one
 tone, whereas the human voice contains many different tones or frequencies
 within the 2 or 3 kHz bandwidth of the SSB signal. To measure the power in the
 SSB signal requires integrating or summing all of the power of all those
 different tones to come up with the total. Any one frequency falls far short 
 of
 -73 dBm, but the total is far greater and should approach -73 dBm. This is 
 easy
 to see on the P3.

 As an example of the above, if you had (10) -100 dBm in-phase tones in a 3 kHz
 bandwidth, the total channel power would actually be -90 dBm, 10 dB higher due
 to the summation. If the number of tones is greater than 10 as it can be with
 the human voice, the total can be even higher, that is, the difference between
 any single frequency and the total becomes greater. Fascinating.

 One final thing: my son is studying for his Technician license, and I plan
 to show him some real AM, SSB and CW signals on the P3 to help him see the
 difference. Do you suppose I can write the P3 off as an education expense? :^)

 Al  W6LX
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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Power measurement with the P3

[Brett Howard]

I have done the mods and I'm running 00.30 and I'm still a bit off.
My XG2 puts out ~-74dBm give or take a few tenths last time I measured
it on our 80K spectrum analyzer and my combination reads -81dBm on the
K3 with the ATU in bypass and no pre or att.  PRE or ATT are correctly
accounted for and the signal does not change if either are activated
individually.  Activating both at the same time causes the signal to
increase by 1dB but operating in this condition would just be plain
silly so I don't consider that a real world scenario.  Engaging the
tuner which is setup for my antenna at that particular frequency
actually makes a change of 3dB.  Again thats no fault of any of the
equipment just something of interesting note...

~Brett (N7MG)


On Fri, Aug 13, 2010 at 3:56 AM, Bill W4ZV btipp...@alum.mit.edu wrote:


 Al Lorona wrote:

 I note my P3's amplitude readings are about 6 dB low-- that's with the IF
 output
 switched off. I'm not sure how to calibrate it.


 Have you done the IF OUT Gain Mod mentioned at the top of page 5 in the
 manual?

 http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/IF_Output_Buffer_Gain_Mod_Rev_A.pdf

 Earliest P3 firmware versions had a gain error of ~10 dB but the latest
 version (beta 00.30) is better.  My P3 now reads -74 dBm for all
 combinations of PRE/ATT on and off (using the XG1's -73 dBm setting).  Once
 Alan implements Amplitude Calibration  we should be able to correct the
 remaining errors.

 73,  Bill

 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-Power-measurement-with-the-P3-tp5419099p5419585.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Serial Number 0030 Is Now Operational

[Brett Howard]

Its the same size as a K3.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, Aug 13, 2010 at 5:54 PM, Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com wrote:
 OK, finished the P3 last night, did the frequency adjustment this afternoon 
 and now I am learning all about it.  Much, much better then my previous 
 panadapter experience with my Icom 756 Pro III.  Yes, not even in the same 
 class as the P3.

 But, I had to make room on the shelf for the P3 which means I moved my Pro 
 III to my other shelf and I now have room on the Elecraft shelf for a nice 
 sized KPA500 as long as it is no more then about 10 1/2 inches wide.

 Does anyone know the dimensions (or the likely dimensions) of the KPA500?

 73, phil, K7PEH


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Re: [Elecraft] K2: Advice about Rework Eliminators etc...

[Brett Howard]

I don't think these are available anymore except for the mic
adapter  Bet that helps you make your decision...

;)

On Fri, Aug 13, 2010 at 10:07 PM, VK7JB zen...@netspace.net.au wrote:

 Hello Group,

 Having gained some confidence completing a K1 a few months ago, I've just
 ordered from Elecraft a K2 with these options:  KPA100, KSB2 and KDSP2.   I
 can't see that I'll ever want to install the KNB2 or the 160 or 60m options.

 Does the Rework Eliminator approach to the build simply complicate matters
 if I'm installing these options from the beginning and won't ever need the
 others?  Are there any other advantages to using the Options bypass headers
 etc?  Is it worth the potential extra-confusion of following essentially 2
 manuals during the build?  I find the unpcbs website a bit overwhelming and
 confusing, whereas I find the Elecraft Construction manuals very clear. It
 would be nice to be able to remove the options for isolating problems with
 them, but is that reason enough for all the extra fuss using the Rework
 Eliminators?

 I do like the idea of the Internal Mike Adapter from that company and will
 probably order that.

 Any ideas or advice would be very welcome,

 john
 VK7JB
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-Advice-about-Rework-Eliminators-etc-tp5422442p5422442.html
 Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY

[Brett Howard]

My P3 shows a rounded version of what is on the K3 when they are
synced.  When my K3 says 7.100.000 the P3 shows 7.100.0 when I go to
7.100.050 it goes to 7.100.1 its a rounded version.  So when my P3 and
K3 are synced (by simply pressing center twice) I can read the
frequency on the K3 and know that is the frequency that the P3 is on.
I simply set the K3 to 10.000.000 and then do the ref cal on the P3.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 11:09 PM, The Smiths notforc...@hotmail.com wrote:
 You're wrong Brett... No matter what you say the P3 doesn't automatically
 sync with the K3 to a 1Hz accuracy.  The Center line on the P3 CAN be and
 usually is off by as much as 99Hz. No matter how you look at it, if you can
 move a Center position on the P3 with the select knob in the CENTER
 adjustment  mode, and it doesn't change from the reading of 10.000.0 until
 you get up to 10.000.1 or down to 9.999.9 than logic tells you that
 SOMETHING is changing between those two positions which just happen to be
 100Hz apart from each other.
 Conversely, if you can change the K3 from 10.000.099 down to 9.999.999
 before the display on the P3 center line changes, than obviously the K3 and
 the P3 are not in sync to the Hz.

 Look, try this.. it's a very simple test.  Take your rig, put it on
 10.000.000  Now look at your P3, does it say 10.000.0. Let's say that it
 does (according to you it should), now, turn your VFO knob up until the P3
 reads 10.000.1.  Where is your K3 displaying? I'm sure it's not going to be
 10.000.100.  I know mine sure isn't, and that's after I set that center as
 close as possible.  My rig displays 10.000.042. That's 58Hz off.
 Take your VFO move it down until the P3 says 9.999.9. What does your K3
 display? Mine says 9.999.940, 60Hz Off. it's NOT accurate. We need the extra
 2 digits in order to set the true Center of the P3 BEFORE doing a Ref-Cal.
 You just can't set the Ref-cal until you know the center has been set
 correctly.  If you do, than you're going to have EVERYTHING out of wack by
 that much difference.  Moving that Ref cal just confuses things more.

 I'm not over thinking it, on the contrary you're putting your head in the
 sand and pretending that the P3's center is following the K3 with 000Hz
 accuracy.  When you center that marker and hit the QSY button you are going
 to move the CENTER of that carrier on the display as far or as close to the
 center that you just calibrated it to.
 You're just wrong.. I'm sorry.  I don't know why Alan hasn't just come on
 here and said so... I've already seen 3 posts from him since we've been
 discussing this.

 The only people that this isn't important to are SSB guys that don't mind
 coming within 100Hz of the QSY freq.  I don't know if you do CW, but I do,
 and when I land 80 hz away from someone with my 100 Hz filter on it makes a
 difference.  The P3 was designed with SSB guys in mind, NOT cw guys.  The
 accuracy of the center display, and the tremendous warm up drift all
 indicate it.
 I love my P3, and I'm having fun with it, but if Alan wants to make this
 friendly to the CW guys that requires more accuracy than the SSB guys use.
 He's going to have to 1 - re-write the manual on how to set up the Center,
 then the Ref-cal alignments, and then 2 - add the extra 2 digits to the
 center display freq.
 This is NO different that putting your K3 on 10.000.000 and setting up the
 Zero beat on your Config: Ref Cal.  You just wouldn't do it that way if you
 didn't know that your K3 wasn't parked at exactly 10.000.000.

 You can disagree all you like. I've made my point, shown my facts,  and I'm
 not going to argue any further on the reflector.  Feel free to contact me
 off the reflector if you need me to explain further.  That goes for Alan as
 well, I would love to talk with you and explain what's going on here if my
 explanation doesn't make sense to you.




 From: br...@livecomputers.com
 Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 21:53:07 -0700
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY
 To: notforc...@hotmail.com

 The P3 is centered on the K3 by default. Thus you can read the K3 to
 tell what frequency the P3 is on. It doesn't need the extra precision
 on the P3 display. I didn't read any more than your last post. I
 think you're over analyzing it and making it more complicated than it
 needs to be. Its not that hard to understand whats going on there I
 think most hams would get it. Those who don't get it its probably not
 important to.

 ~Brett (N7MG)


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Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY

[Brett Howard]

No what is going on is the P3 only displays one decimal point after
Khz.  Its dead on and it knows what the actual frequency is its just
that it rounds it to save a little space at the center of the display.
 Move your eyes over to the radio or your logging software and you get
a full readout of the same frequency from the same source the P3 is
collecting it (the radio).  Its not that you're off frequency its just
that you're seeing a rounded copy of it on the P3.  However once you
center the P3 on the radios frequency you know that the P3 and the
radio are in sync with one another and on the same frequency.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 11:11 AM, Lu Romero lrom...@ij.net wrote:
 So now I am getting a much better understanding...

 What Joe W4TV is saying is that a P3 is never more than 50
 cycles from the K3 frequency readout when correctly
 calibrated.  With a 100 cycle bandwidth, this is somewhat
 acceptable.

 However, on a Flex, I can click on a signal and be DEAD ON
 the signal I have selected.

 I have never operated a LP-Pan, but can I assume that it
 will function just like the Flex (it is the same software
 front end after all)?

 And Skimmer's waterfall display is also just as accurate.

 This means that if I am a shoot fish in a barrel mult
 operator and are combing the band for signals, I would be
 much more efficient time wise using a Flex/LP-Pan or a
 Skimmer than using a P3 on my K3, even with the Macro Magic
 CWT solution, right?  The upside is that no computer is
 needed (which is a non trivial thing, IMO).

 Will/can the P3/K3 combination approach the accuracy of the
 above systems?

 -lu-w4lt-


 Date: Thu, 12 Aug 2010 02:58:27 -0400
 From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Message-ID: 4c639b93.8030...@subich.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed


 You're wrong Brett... No matter what you say the P3
 doesn't
 automatically sync with the K3 to a 1Hz accuracy.  The
 Center line
 on the P3 CAN be and usually is off by as much as 99Hz.

 You're wrong.  The P3 display will never be more than 50 Hz
 from the
 K3 if you calibrate it properly.  Hold center until the
 Center
 Frequency adjust display comes on and then hold Center
 again.
 The P3 center frequency will be calibrated to the K3
 frequency ...
 the display will change +/- 50 Hz (e.g. it will show
 10.000.0 from
 9.999.950 to 10.000.049).

 Look, try this.. it's a very simple test.  Take your rig,
 put it on
 10.000.000  Now look at your P3, does it say 10.000.0.
 Let's say
 that it does (according to you it should), now, turn your
 VFO knob
 up until the P3 reads 10.000.1.  Where is your K3
 displaying? I'm
 sure it's not going to be 10.000.100.

 No, the P3 display will change to 10.000.1 at 10.000.050 as
 I just
 explained above.  The P3 shows the correctly rounded version
 (not
 truncated) of the K3 frequency.  If you want the P3 center
 frequency
 to align with the K3 simply do the Center Center process
 as
 documented in the manual.

 You just can't set the Ref-cal until you know the center
 has been
 set correctly.  If you do, than you're going to have
 EVERYTHING out
 of wack by that much difference.  Moving that Ref cal just
 confuses
 things more.

 If you properly zero the Center as instructed in the
 manual and
 use WWV or an AM broadcast signal with SPAN set to 2 KHz,
 you will
 get REF-CAL set to well less than 0.1 Hz ... probably on the
 order
 of 0.01 Hz.  It's not rocket science ... just follow the
 instructions
 from those who designed the product and stop trying to
 argue.

 73,

    ... Joe, W4TV

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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Firmware Reload

[Brett Howard]

You should also do a reset of the P3 after the reload of the latest
software.  Hold the MENU/LABELS key while turning the P3 power on.
Hold the button till it says configuration reset.  You'll lose your
reference calibration and any of your FN labels but this has been
known to flush out some of the problems that existed and gives you a
clean slate from which to start from with your new firmware.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 9:14 AM, Bill W4ZV btipp...@alum.mit.edu wrote:


 Don Cunningham wrote:

 I forgot, in the heat of playing with a new toy, to pass something along
 that may help others.  My P3 came loaded with the latest firmware, so I
 was happily using it, and having some strange issues,  like excessive
 display flickering, signals not centered, readout on P3 not matching K3's
 dial, etc.


 Some MAJOR firmware fixes were implemented.  The first thing anyone should
 do after turning on their new K3 or P3 is to load the latest firmware.
 Don't be afraid of this...it's very important for best performance and
 especially so for a newly introduced product.
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-Firmware-Reload-tp5416645p5416797.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Ideas and questions

[Brett Howard]

Make sure you have the latest software installed and do a
configuration reset by holding MENU/LABELS while turning the P3 on.
Continue to hold MENU/LABELS till it says that its reset things.  Then
reconfigure your ref cal and your FN labels and see if it takes care
of things for you.  Thankfully there arent a TON of configurable
things in the P3 (yet) so its not too painful to do a reset... ;)

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 5:29 AM, Craig D. Smith cr...@powersmith.net wrote:
 I had previously tried it with FN 1 and FN 2 without success.  I just now
 tried it with FN 7 and get the same result.

 Brett N7MG who is one of the field testers has indicated that this is, or
 has been, a known issue - so I am confident that it will be resolved in an
 upcoming firmware revision.  In the meantime, it is no big deal.

 73   Craig  AC0DS


 Try moving that function to another button.. For example, use F7, and
 that's where I have mine now without issue.  See if that works for you.


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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier

[Brett Howard]

Actually its my work to design and get products through these types of
regulations so I tend to like to know how these different rules work
and how people cope with them.  If its not your thing great that's why
there are people like me.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 8:33 PM, Tim Tucker ae...@worldwidedx.com wrote:
 The FCC Certified it, so who cares?  If you spend all your time trying to
 figure out why our government has rules that it routinely ignores, you're
 going to drive yourself crazy.

 The speed limit on the national highway system is 75mph.  Yet the NTSB has
 no problem with manufacturers that sell cars that go twice that fast.
 Meanwhile, you're surprised that the FCC ignores the 15db gain rule?
 Really?  Anyone could come up with a thousand examples.


 On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 7:51 PM, Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.comwrote:

 Why be sorry I'm only wondering... I'd thought that over 15dB of gain
 was against the rules.  10W is 40dBm thus +15dBm is 55dBm or a little
 over 300Watts.

 Lyle's aforementioned 35 watts would be 45dBm +15 gives you 60dBm
 which the KPA500 aint a gonna do...  Guess the KPA500 is probably only
 going to provide around 12dB of gain.  While if your measurements are
 correct the SPE Expert 1K-FA is giving you 17dB of gain.

 Not challenging you I was just wondering.

 ~Brett (N7MG)

 On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 5:58 PM, W4GRJ w4...@satterfield.org wrote:
  The Expert 1K-FA is FCC Certified.maybe my meter is not accurate
 
  In any event, I am sorry I ever commented on this reflector with such
  responses.
 
  Jack
  W4GRJ
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY

[Brett Howard]

I'd recommend if you want to add a K3 menu item that you'd enter the
menu and then press the P3 button that you want to assign.  Just like
you'd press M1-M4 or PF1/PF2.  I think the P3 should feel like its got
no disconnection between it and the K3.  It should feel as if it would
be 100% natural if the P3 was simply a screen inside the K3.  Not to
mention that when the K3 menu is entered the menu should be displayed
on the P3.  Thus it becomes even clearer that you can assign menu
functions to the K3.

One other point of note is that when a P3 menu item that only has two
states is assigned to a PFx button pressing that button should toggle
that setting like the K3 does rather than only pulling up the item.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 5:46 PM, Alan Bloom n...@cds1.net wrote:
 Currently, only P3 menu functions can be assigned to the function keys,
 however including K3 macros is an obvious enhancement.  The main issue
 is the user interface - what should be the key press sequence to tell
 the P3 which K3 key you want to assign?  This could be done by adding
 the feature to P3 Utility, but I'd like to figure out a way to do it
 without a computer connected.

 Alan


 On Thu, 2010-08-12 at 00:16 +0100, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
 So it is possible to put K3 macros on the P3 function keys?
 I did ask about that here, but no reply. Where in the manual does it explain 
 about that please?
 PS - My P3 should arrive tomorrow, details when I get them.
 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174


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Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY

[Brett Howard]

The center follows the K3 you can tell where it is based on the fact
that there is a K3 next to you.  So long as you've got the two synced
and don't have a center offset in you know where the center is.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 9:19 PM, The Smiths notforc...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Bill,

 I'm going to try to be as least condescending as I can.  Please forgive me if 
 I go astray.  I tend to get very snippety when I'm being treated as if I'm 
 dumb...

 Before you can even begin to set the Ref-Cal on the P3 you must FIRST know 
 that the center line on the P3 is actually the center of the Freq. it is 
 displaying.  I'm sure by seeing your answer to my email that this is 
 something that has completely alluded you.  What you are suggesting, and the 
 manual for that matter, is that what ever the display says is the center 
 Freq. is going to be an accurate reading.  This is just plain and outright 
 ridiculous.  If you have taken the time to really think about what is going 
 on here you would come to the realization that there is only 1 ONE digit 
 after the KHz freq. display on the P3 Center line (IE 10.000.0)

 If you look at the centering adjustment for the P3 you will notice that the 
 display will NOT change from the 10.000.0 position until you reach the 
 10.000.1 (+100Hz)  or 9.999.9 (-100Hz) frequency.  Therefore logic dictates 
 that if you try to adjust a center and just arbitrarily use any position 
 between  10.000.1 and 9.999.9 as your center you have a 1 in 100Hz chance of 
 being centered on the Zero beat of WWV in this case (10.000.000 being the 
 center carrier freq. of wwv in the USA. Not 10.000.099).

 In other words, this means that if you were to even attempt to adjust your 
 Ref-cal alignment on the P3 before finding the best FUZZY center of 
 10.000.000 you can, your REF-CAL alignment will NEVER be closer than the 
 center you have set it to. So, now adding both the complete inaccuracy of the 
 Center alignment of up to 100Hz, and the best possible marker accuracy of 
 5Hz (in the 2KHz span), you can NEVER set the P3 closer than 5Hz with any 
 actual accuracy.  And That of of course would require you making a really 
 really good guesstimation of where the Fuzzy Center on the P3 is by finding 
 the highest number before the flip, and the lowest number before the flip 
 from 10.000.0, then moving the select knob to as close a center of each as 
 you can.

 Would you put your K3 on 10.000.0, turning off the extra 2 digits and try to 
 set your Config: Ref-Cal alignment to Zero beat WWV? Because this is exactly 
 what you are suggesting others do by telling them that the Center alignment 
 has nothing to do with the Ref Cal alignment on the P3.
 Elecraft has GOT TO add those two other digits into the display if anyone is 
 going to have an accurate centering of their P3 before they do the Ref Cal 
 alignment.  This is IMPERATIVE to the CW operator that relies on being able 
 to use 50Hz wide filters.

 This is forgetting the fact that on 3 of the units I have helped align so far 
 they have ALL been off frequency with both Center and Ref Cal by as much as 
 -300.  Well, -160 when first turned on, -220 about a half hour later, and 
 then -300 about an hour later. The drift is incredible on the P3, a .05 or 
 even 1ppm crystal it does not have.
 I would suggest to EVERYONE that has the P3 they wait AT LEAST and hour 
 (assuming you generally use your P3 for more than an hour when you operate it 
 on a normal day) before setting their REF Cal alignment.  But without doubt, 
 before you do that, make sure that you know the center mark on your P3 is 
 actually the center you're looking for.

 I think it's time for the manual to change how the alignment has been 
 written, not how I'm doing my alignment.  Thank you.





 Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 12:08:04 -0700
 From: btipp...@alum.mit.edu
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3: a modest proposal for QSY



 The Smiths wrote:
 
  Because the accuracy of the display readout when doing the CENTER
  alignment is short by 2 digits, it causes the centering of the P3 to be
  within only 100Hz of the actual center. It is imperative to the CW guys
  that the extra 2 digits be displayed on the Top center read out. This
  would allow us to both CENTER and REF CAL our WWV carrier right on Zero
  Beat, and not just within 100Hz. Right now this is the most crippling blow
  to the CW guys.
 

 You may not be doing Reference Calibration correctly if you are using the
 digital frequency readout on the P3. You don't need anything except the
 Spectrum display (step 5 below). From page 19 of the manual:

 Frequency Calibration

 Turn on the transceiver and P3 and allow
 them to warm up for 30 minutes, minimum,
 before performing the calibration.

 1. If the transceiver has a calibration procedure to
 correct its frequency errors, perform that
 procedure first.

 2. Using a well-calibrated signal generator or an
 on-the air carrier 

Re: [Elecraft] P3 Ideas and questions

[Brett Howard]

Per band settings are coming in a future release...

Some of the earlier versions had issues with FN keys disappearing.
Alan believes to have this solved in the latest versions but the jury
is still out as we are beating on versions not yet released...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 9:36 PM, Craig D. Smith cr...@powersmith.net wrote:
 After two days with the P3, here are some observations and questions.

 Could the following be considered as part of future firmware upgrades?

 Save the REF LVL, SCALE, and SPAN on a per band basis?  This would reduce
 the need to adjust these when changing bands.

 I'm thinking that for contest work I will want the P3 right in back of my
 keyboard and below my logging monitor.  It fits there fine and is easy to
 reach.  The K3 is off at an angle to the right, out of the direct field of
 view.  Therefore, it would be neat to use the P3 display to indicate some of
 the K3 status, since it has such a nice bright color display.  For example,
 the VFO A cursor could flash when in diversity and the VFO B cursor could
 flash when in split.  I'm sure there would be opportunities for other status
 displays as well.

 Finally, something that could be just an anomaly with my unit or perhaps
 operator error.  I've assigned several functions to the function keys
 without any problem, except that when I assign the waterfall height to a
 function key, it doesn't always stay there through a power off/on cycle,
 etc.  I've tried it with more than one FN key with the same result.  All the
 other functions I've tried stay memorized.  Has anyone else noticed this?

 Still liking the P3 a lot!

              73   Craig   AC0DS



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Re: [Elecraft] Big Box K-3

[Brett Howard]

I just want to be able to see the entire menu (or more of it) over on
the P3 all at the same time and I want to see the menu item and the
current value that they are set to.  

Here is an example of how it could look:
http://www.tentec.com/images/6.jpg

This way as you're barreling through the options you eye can be looking
for the one you want and can see more at once rather that only one at a
time.  

I really like how fast one can traverse the menus with the two knobs and
the tap disp for default value and a tid bit of help works wonderfully
but they could be much more user friendly and better integrated as a
product if you could get a view like that of above on the P3!

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-08-09 at 21:47 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Brett,
 
 I think the K3 gets an undeserved bad rap for the menus.  The main 
 menu has only 13 items in it, and those are the items most likely to be 
 changed during operation.  Assigning these menu items to buttons might 
 make sense in some instances, but I don't change mics very often, nor do 
 I change the LED or LCD brightness often, so even the MAIN menu in my K3 
 gets little use.
 
 Yes, the CONFIG menu is large and has many settings, but those are 
 usually changed only as one has occasion to add options, or experiment 
 with some of the settings to see if the operation of the K3 can be 
 improved (such as the AGC settings).  I cannot see the CONFIG menu items 
 needing a button because they should not be needed in normal operation - 
 experiment a bit to determine the best setting, and then leave it 
 there.  Too much monkeying with the CONFIG menu can lead to 
 unintentional changes that cause stange and confusing happenings.
 
 If there is a need to access a CONFIG menu item frequently, perhaps one 
 should lobby for moving that menu item to the main menu.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 Brett Howard wrote:
  ... make the menus
  of the K3 more user friendly.
 
  ~Brett (N7MG)

 


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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier

[Brett Howard]

Huh?  I thought that was illegal?

~Brett (N7MG)

On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 12:37 PM, W4GRJ w4...@satterfield.org wrote:
 Depends on the Amplifier, I have a SPE Expert 1K-FA.10watts drive = 500
 watts out

 Jack
 W4GRJ


 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Lyle Johnson
 Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 1:33 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier


 ...I presently have a K3 10 and am wondering if the 10 watts will be
 enough to kick the new amp

 Yes, it will.  You'll likely get more than 100 watts but less than 200
 watts output with 10 watts of drive.  If you want the full 500+ watts,
 then you'll probably need 30W to 40W of drive.

 73,

 Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier

[Brett Howard]

Why be sorry I'm only wondering... I'd thought that over 15dB of gain
was against the rules.  10W is 40dBm thus +15dBm is 55dBm or a little
over 300Watts.

Lyle's aforementioned 35 watts would be 45dBm +15 gives you 60dBm
which the KPA500 aint a gonna do...  Guess the KPA500 is probably only
going to provide around 12dB of gain.  While if your measurements are
correct the SPE Expert 1K-FA is giving you 17dB of gain.

Not challenging you I was just wondering.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 5:58 PM, W4GRJ w4...@satterfield.org wrote:
 The Expert 1K-FA is FCC Certified.maybe my meter is not accurate

 In any event, I am sorry I ever commented on this reflector with such
 responses.

 Jack
 W4GRJ


 -Original Message-
 From: Brett Howard [mailto:br...@livecomputers.com]
 Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 8:48 PM
 To: W4GRJ
 Cc: Lyle Johnson; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier

 Huh?  I thought that was illegal?

 ~Brett (N7MG)

 On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 12:37 PM, W4GRJ w4...@satterfield.org wrote:
 Depends on the Amplifier, I have a SPE Expert 1K-FA.10watts drive =
 500
 watts out

 Jack
 W4GRJ


 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Lyle Johnson
 Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 1:33 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier


 ...I presently have a K3 10 and am wondering if the 10 watts will be
 enough to kick the new amp

 Yes, it will.  You'll likely get more than 100 watts but less than 200
 watts output with 10 watts of drive.  If you want the full 500+ watts,
 then you'll probably need 30W to 40W of drive.

 73,

 Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] Big Box K-3

[Brett Howard]

The P3 has a keyboard port on it and will allow you to do that.
Personally I like things more modular so that if/when I need to take
things I only have to take the pieces I need.  I'm ok with cables an
really like the additional buttons the P3 brings.  I'm certain that at
some point one will be able to associate macros with buttons on the P3
and I also feel like the P3 could be integrated to also make the menus
of the K3 more user friendly.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 6:21 PM, Lou Kolb louk...@gmail.com wrote:
 I certainly agree on the keyboard port.  I'm currently using a k1el k40
 external keyer with a keyboard because I'm a better typist than iambist to
 coin a term.  It works fine but I'd love to just be able to plug the
 keyboard right into the rig and use that fine internal keyer.  Lou   --
 WA3MIX
 - Original Message -
 From: Nicholas Farrar nfar...@bfpacs.com
 To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 8:45 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Big Box K-3


 Im not asking for a K4. Im looking for a K3A upgrade. A larger case I can
 put the guts of my K3 in with a larger face(bigger screen and more
 buttons).
 This is not a completely new radio but a OPTIONAL upgrade to the K3 for
 those that want it. I understand a lot of people are happy with the size
 of
 their K3. Great they wouldn't want the K3A upgrade. I how ever would. I
 think a P3 built into the K3A face would be GREAT! Maybe the option to
 house
 either power supply OR amp! With the exception of the case and faceplate
 buttons and screen and power supply these are off the shelf parts. P3 is
 already in production and the KPA500 is rumored to drop this winter. I
 would
 also like a keyboard port. I want to be able to type PSK31 and RTTY with
 out
 an external PC. Imagine that! 500w RTTY in one box! Yes it would be heavy
 and some people wouldn't like it. Others would. Again Im not asking for a
 whole new radio. All that i'm asking for requires little development by
 elecraft, more repackaging. In the end would result in a top shelf KILLER.

 In closing the Elecraft K3 is GREAT! I am the VERY proud owner of K3
 #4455(great number!). the K3 has exceeded almost every expectation I had
 for
 a kit radio. That doesn't mean it couldn't be even better. I think yes. I
 personally would like a larger desktop K3(a). I would like the be able
 to
 perform this fictonal upgrade on the K3 components I have now. It you dont
 want or need these upgrades... Don't order or install them. This is a
 challenge to Eric and Wayne.

 --
 Nicholas W. Farrar
 Network Engineer / IT Coordinator

 Brown Folse PACS
 nfar...@bfpacs.com

 Office  318-595-0451
 Mobile 318-381-9863
 Fax     866-248-6128
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Re: [Elecraft] 10 W power out with KPA3 Normal

[Brett Howard]

Rerun your 5W calibration.
Then set your K3's power less than 12 watts.
Set the K3 for 160 meters.
Now go into Config and find TXGN LP
Write down the value.
Now press band up.
Write down the value
Lather rinse repeat (get the gain value for all of the bands in your K3)

Then reply to this message (including on the reflector) with the
values that you get...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 10:05 AM, w0uo w...@citbroadband.com wrote:
 My K-3 is only putting out 10 watts.  KPA3 showed in Bypass. I placed it
 normal, still only 10 watts out.  The circuit breaker appears to be in, that
 is it does not appear to change positions when I push it. Suggestions?



 Jim

 W0UO

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Re: [Elecraft] P3

[Brett Howard]

Bout an hour and a half or so including time that it took to take it
out of the box... Not to mention the fact that I was one the phone
while assembling it.  However my time was kept low and I was able to
built it with divided attention because I'd already read the manual.
There are very few possible screws to have to separate things from and
thus the thing just poof goes together in a heartbeat.  The only real
secret is that you need to kinda put things together slightly loosely
and make sure you get it all square and sealed up tight before you
tighten things down.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 11:05 PM, Rick Prather k6limae...@gmail.com wrote:
 How long did it take you Brett?

 Don't expect a benchmark time since we all do things at our own pace, just 
 wondering about your experience.

 Rick
 K6LE


 On 8/2/2010, at 8:42 , Brett Howard wrote:

 I put the kit together and slapped the thing on the radio it then
 instantly came up and started displaying signals.  Can't get any more
 simple!  Building the P3 took way less time to build and setup than
 the LP-PAN.  Both have their place in the world.

 ~Brett (N7MG)


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[Elecraft] Another slick note about the P3...

[Brett Howard]

Man I must admit I really dig the ability to move the CF...  On
numerous occasions I'd be listening to a QSO and I'd want to look over
and check another portion of the band  However in PowerSDR I
wasn't able to do this without leaving my current frequency.  This was
an even bigger problem in that my sound card was only a 96Khz version.
 However I really dig that with the P3 I can move the center frequency
over and look at the CW portion of the band even if I'm up at the top
end of that band.

Very cool!

~Brett (N7MG)

PS: another thing that I really like about the P3 is that the
resolution of the data displayed remains the same no matter what I
have my span set to.  In powerSDR with the LP-PAN you've got a fixed
sample rate and thus your data points are greatly spread out when
using narrow spans.  Not so with the P3.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3DVR vs CW Memories

[Brett Howard]

It only functions in SSB mode it provides no advantage in CW mode
other than the fact that it can record over the air signals...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 8:11 PM, Stan Gibbs s...@ajaxsoftware.com wrote:

 I've read the manuals and searched the archives, but I'm still unclear what
 benefits, if any, the KDVR3 provides over the built-in CW memories for CW
 mode.

 I'm also unclear how the two interrelate; does the KDVR3 override or replace
 the CW memories when it is installed, or does it function only in SSB mode?


 -
 73, Stan - KR7C
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3DVR-vs-CW-Memories-tp5371027p5371027.html
 Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] P3

[Brett Howard]

I put the kit together and slapped the thing on the radio it then
instantly came up and started displaying signals.  Can't get any more
simple!  Building the P3 took way less time to build and setup than
the LP-PAN.  Both have their place in the world.

~Brett (N7MG)


On Mon, Aug 2, 2010 at 8:38 PM, Larry Godek telegrap...@att.net wrote:
 I wonder how many of the P3 have been sold to date or promised as the case 
 may be.  I'm beginning to squirm in my chair but i like to wait a bit on a 
 new product to see what kind of problems show up and how they are going to be 
 resolved.  Sure looks nice though.

 Be interesting to hear some feedback from the buyers of kits to see how they 
 go together and if they run into any snags.

 Larry
 W0OGH

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT3 tuning bandwidth

[Brett Howard]

There are several solutions here...

1) Clear the memories for the band.  Enter Config then go to KAT3 and
press CLR.  This will clear your current ATU memories for that band
and 1 tuning will be used across the band but they will continue to be
learned as you tune.
2) Download K3EZ.  This is a simple application which one can find by
doing a search.  This application has a pane that will allow a user to
calibrate the K3 to their antenna on a per band/antenna basis.
3) Manually tune in every ATU window.

The ATU does stay put as you tune the VFO.  Its settings are only
updated when you've crossed memory region boundaries and you transmit.
 As soon as you transmit if you hear a click and the ATU icon flashes
that means that the K3 has recalled a tuning memory for you.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sun, Aug 1, 2010 at 3:02 PM, Steef PA2A p...@xs4all.nl wrote:
 Guy,

 That works! I thought the tuner remained in the same position because no 
 relay clicks were audible when turning the VFO across the band.

 73 's Steef PA2A
  - Original Message -
  From: Guy Olinger K2AV
  To: Steef PA2A
  Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 11:35 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT3 tuning bandwidth


  See page 56 in the user manual.  Put the K3 on the band you want to
  clear.  Go to CONFIG:KAT3:LC SET.  Tap CLR.  This should clear the
  memories for that band.
  73, Guy.
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Brett Howard]

Where be your tutorial?  I've got a couple 4 #2 cores that I was
thinking of using...  Not sure if it'll be the right material but they
sure are big enough that I shouldn't have to worry about power
handling! ;)

It'll probably be a bit before I get to building the Balun project.  I'm
in the process of building a full few sets of W3NQN band pass filters.
So far I've built one all the way through and I've got 82dB of second
harmonic rejection.  Now I'm in batch mode and I've just finished
getting the connectors on a bunch more project boxes.  Also about 91
cores just arrived on the front door step! ;)

Then on top of that I'm working on making a band decoder
(http://k3decoder.googlecode.com).  Needless to say I'm keeping busy
with those projects and the full time job. ;)

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, 2010-07-30 at 11:13 -0700, Jim Brown wrote:
 On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 11:53:33 -0700, Brett Howard wrote:
 
 Interesting enough his high power one uses two cores and appears to be
 made the same as the budget one that is wound on one core...  Seems
 like stacking them on top of one another is going to just couple them
 and hinder your isolation but maybe I'm wrong there
 
 No, the only coupling between chokes wound on different ferrite cores 
 that provide a complete path for current (like a toroid) is the stray 
 capacitance that results from their physical proximity. Virtually ALL 
 of the flux stays in the ferrite core -- there is virtually NO leakage 
 flux (that is, coupling between coils wound on different toroids). 
 
 This is generally true of ALL coils wound on closed ferrite paths. 
 Leakage flux (and thus coupling outside the core) occurs when the 
 ferrite does NOT complete the path (for example, a coil wound on a 
 ferrite bar, also known as a loopstick receiving antenna). 
 
 If you want a very good 4:1 impedance tranforming balun for less than 
 about 500 watts, consider building one from two of the 12-turn or 14-
 turn THHN chokes shown in my tutorial. Each choke is wound on a #31 
 2.4-inch o.d. core. Total cost about $20 (two cores plus some wire and 
 connectors). 
 
 73, Jim Brown K9YC
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Reference level; scale

[Brett Howard]

I just got done spending a quarter million on two Agilent spectrum
analyzers and spend a good bit of time using them  I find that for
the panadapter use case that having it at the bottom takes much less
getting used to that I'd thought it would.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, 2010-07-30 at 18:43 -0700, Wes Stewart wrote:
 As a guy who had a hand in buying and/or specifying the purchase of millions 
 of dollars worth of HP equipment (never bought any Agilent, couldn't figure 
 out how to pronounce it) and who used a lot of it, I also think the reference 
 belongs at the top.
 
 But why not a spectrum analyzer mode and a panadapter mode?
 
 --- On Fri, 7/30/10, Alan Bloom a...@elecraft.com wrote:
 
  As a former HP/Agilent engineer I
  agree.  Originally the P3 defined REF
  LVL as the reference level at the top of the screen and
  SCALE was in
  dB/division.  But I got talked out of it.
  
  For a panadapter you generally want to set the noise to be
  near the
  bottom of the display.  As you change the scale you
  don't want that to
  change.  That's the reason for using the bottom of the
  display as the
  reference level.
  
  Also, it goes against my intuition that the reference level
  decreases
  (becomes more negative) as you turn the knob
  clockwise.  Again, the
  thought was that for a panadapter, people expect the signal
  to get
  bigger as you turn the knob to the right.
  
  Basically a panadapter and a spectrum analyzer are used for
  different
  purposes so it makes sense that the user interface is
  different.
  Hopefully we got it right.
  
  Alan N1AL
 
 
 
 
   
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Delivery

[Brett Howard]

When you read sensor Think W2...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, 2010-07-30 at 09:29 -0500, Jim Miller KG0KP wrote:
 And it was dated today when I downloaded it (yesterday) and started 
 reading, but it was today before I stopped reading and went to bed! hi hi). 
 
 THANKS Alan for the heads up on the manual.
 
 Love the keyboard on the back panel, and the sensor?  Any ideas?
 
 Bet some went out the door yesterday.
 
 73, de Jim KG0KP
   - Original Message - 
   From: Hector Padron 
   To: Jim Miller KG0KP 
   Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
   Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 8:42 AM
   Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 Delivery
 
 
 And if you read well,at the begining is dated YESTERDAY,isn't that an 
 updated manual ?
 
 AD4C
 
 
 
 If you see a driver handling a cell phone on her/his hands while 
 driving,do please stay away from that vehicle,its a moving bomb.Your life is 
 at danger.Keep yourself and your family alive
 
 --- On Fri, 7/30/10, Jim Miller KG0KP jimmil...@stl-online.net 
 wrote:
 
 
   From: Jim Miller KG0KP jimmil...@stl-online.net
   Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 Delivery
   To: Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com, Don Cunningham 
 wb5...@martineer.net
   Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
   Date: Friday, July 30, 2010, 5:04 AM
 
 
   Fantastic and a manual too.  How about that!!!  Will give me 
 something to 
   read until mine shows up.
 
   73, de Jim KG0KP
 
   - Original Message - 
   From: Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com
   To: Don Cunningham wb5...@martineer.net
   Cc: Jim Miller KG0KP jimmil...@stl-online.net; 
   elecraft@mailman.qth.net
   Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 10:36 PM
   Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 Delivery
 
 
   I received my e-mail from Elecraft this afternoon requesting 
 confirmation of 
   my P3 order and the shipping address.  I guess this means that they 
 may ship 
   very soon, such as maybe tomorrow.
 
   73, phil, K7PEH
 
   On Jul 29, 2010, at 7:14 PM, Don Cunningham wrote:
 
I'm glad you can get something positive out of that, Jim.  To me, 
re-hashed,
two week old news is not news at all, much less great news.  
 I'd like
something more concrete, like at least a manual to peruse.
73,
Don, WB5HAK
   
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] DC Power cable

[Brett Howard]

Thats 25 pounds of pull to pull the metal bit out of the plastic bit...
But it should require 3-5 pounds (depending on what connector detent
style you have) of force before a mated connection separates.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sun, 2010-07-25 at 13:28 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Susan,
 
 That usually means the APP was not assembled properly.  Make certain the 
 blades are fully inserted into the housing.  The blades must latch over 
 the spring fingers that are in the housing and it takes a good push with 
 a thin screwdriver or other tool to seat properly.  When properly 
 assembled, it takes about a 25 pound pull to disengage them.
 If you assembled your K3 from a kit, check the connector on the K3 as 
 well as the one on the cable - OR just check it anyway, there is always 
 a chance that a factory assembler did not push hard enough to lock the 
 blade.
 
 If you mean that the red and black housings come apart, put a drop of 
 superglue on the mating surfaces and they should be tight.  There is a 
 hole intended for a roll-pin, but often the roll pin comes out and gets 
 into places no metal should be, so if you do use a roll-pin, secure it 
 with a bit of superglue.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 ussv dharma wrote:
  The power pole connector cable I recd with my k3 has no place for a pin.
 
  The darned thing keeps disconnecting.
 
 
  HELP
 
 
  Great Grandmaw Susan
 
  If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're headed!! 
  Susan Meckley, Skipper W7KFI-mm  AFA9SM USSV DHARMA 
 
 
  --- On Sun, 7/25/10, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote:
 

  From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] DC Power cable
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Date: Sunday, July 25, 2010, 6:41 AM
  On Sat, 24 Jul 2010 11:13:22 -0700
  (PDT), ab2tc wrote:
 
  
  Where should I look for a top quality connector? 

  I've converted all of my DC wiring to Power Poles, so I've
  put 
  together more than a hundred of these connectors. There are
  three 
  sizes of pins that fit the red and black shells used by
  Elecraft. 
  The small size is best for wires smaller than #18; the
  middle size 
  (most common) works up to #12, the larger size goes up to
  #8 (and 
  can be a very snug fit in the shell). I've always bought
  them from 
  hamfest vendors, but there are several vendors who
  advertise in QST 
  who sell them. They usually come in packs of ten, or ten
  pairs. I've 
  never crimped them, always soldered.
 
  Remember that voltage drop is proportional to length, so
  shorter is 
  better. 
 
  73, Jim K9YC
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Feature Request - Stopping CW Memory Playback with PTT

[Brett Howard]

While this is true I still feel that any KEY_IN source be it PTT or VOX
or the paddles it should interrupt the memory keyer. 

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, 2010-07-23 at 02:53 -0500, Bob Naumann wrote:
 The paddle is the most logical device to use to stop the CW from the radio's
 memories.
 
 In a contest, you should probably be using the CW sending capability of your
 logging program instead of the radio's memories as it most likely allows
 hitting of the Esc key on your keyboard to stop the CW which I'm sure you'd
 find more convenient.
 
 73,
 
 Bob W5OV
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Andy Wood
 Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 9:57 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Feature Request - Stopping CW Memory Playback with
 PTT
 
 
 I have recently entered into the world of CW and participated in my first
 contest using both SSB and CW modes. I noticed that you cannot stop the CW
 memory playback by activating the PTT (either from a microphone attached to
 the front panel or a footswitch plugged in the rear). It could only be
 stopped by touching the paddle.
 
 Could this be implemented in a future firmware version? There is also the
 possibility that there may be a very good reason not to.
 
 Andy  VK4KY
 
 
 


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[Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Brett Howard]

I'll preface this by explaining that I'm a digital guy and I've lately
decided I want to get a little better understanding of magnetics and
RF...  Thus why I'm taking on making my own W3NQN band pass filters and
I've also been interested in building a Balun...

So I've looked at a few sites describing how to make a 4:1 balun...  One
such solution is to take 2 100 ohm 1:1 baluns and connect them in
parallel on the input side and in series on the output side...  

I looked at the Elecraft BL1 manual but I didn't see what material the
core was...  However in another article I saw someone post the recommend
getting a FT140-61 and winding 7 to 8 turns on each side to make the two
100 ohm feedlines.

So I ran the numbers and 8 turns on a FT140-61 gives you about 100 ohms
on 160 meters.  Thus two 100 ohm points in parallel gives you 50 ohms in
and 200 ohms out.  4:1... Great.  

However at say 40 meters...  Each feedline is 430 ohms.  Thus you've got
a 215ohm input and a 860 ohm output.  This just seems like it would make
a mess.  Why does it still work?

Finally I'll explain my final goal...  I've looked at several ways to
make a 4:1 which involves using two 1:1's.  Then there are methods to
take 2 4:1's to make a 6:1 (the feedlines are 125ohm windings to pull
this off).  My final goal is to try to make a 6:1 and use it to use
ladder line once I get through the wall with coax.  I always just
figured that a 6:1 would be better as it would have a 50 ohm in and a
true 300 ohm out.

However once you get away from the design frequency the feed impedances
go to pot...  So is there really much difference in the 6:1 and the 4:1?
I've read of many people doing what I'm talking about with a 4:1 and
just figured that a 6:1 should provide a better match...  Am I thinking
right or is the match so terrible anyway that it doesn't so much
matter?  

Is it just that the thing balances the currents on the outputs and I'm
just over thinking the matching ability?

Appreciated gentlemen.

~Brett (N7MG)

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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Brett Howard]

This sounds really similar to a lot of plans that I've seen... One
other piece that I've noticed on many of these that no one seems to
ever mention is that the two 1:1's are usually wound in opposite
directions on each half of the core...  I'm assuming this helps to
reduce the coupling between the two 1:1's?  Also I'd be interested to
hear people's thoughts on this improved balun...  Seems to be an
attractive solution.  It only pictures the schematic here and I kinda
picture it as being wound similarly but you wire one of the turns on
one of the feeds from out side to in side.  Essentially the ends
of the wires would fold back over the core to get to its location...

Soon here I should have all sorts of cores and wire and I was planning
on trying a few of these and measuring them with the 259B and seeing
how they come out.  But to go beyond that I'll need some sort of
antenna probably to do further testing cause I don't have enough loads
nor do I have a 200ohm dummy... ;)

I'll be ordering the Sevik book as well...

Thanks gentlemen.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, Jul 23, 2010 at 9:38 AM, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote:
 On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 06:34:54 -0400, Tom W8JI wrote:

The 100 ohms is the differential impedance, or transmission
line impedance

 Tom is the balun expert around here, but he isn't telling you
 everything he knows, so I'll float a simple 4:1 balun design
 that should work quite well up to moderate power levels. As
 Tom's analysis shows (on his link), there are conditions of use
 where high power can overheat it.

 So to respond to your question with a direct answer, for a 4:1
 balun, I would build it from two common mode chokes, each choke
 wound on its own 2.4-inch o.d. #31 toroid. Each choke needs 14
 bifilar turns of #14 THHN. As you have noted, the chokes should
 be wired in parallel on the 50 ohm side and in series on the
 200 ohm side. One of the important conditions that makes this
 work (or not work) is that the common mode impedance must be
 quite high to prevent the choke from overheating, and to
 minimize power loss. These chokes provide nearly 5000 ohms
 common mode impedance from 2-30 MHz. The impedance is
 predominantly resistive.

 Bifilar means that you form a transmission line from two equal
 lengths of the #14 THHN, tightly spaced so that their
 insulation touches, and either tape them together or hold them
 together with Ty-wraps, then wind that parallel wire
 transmission line around the toroid. You'll need 2.5 inches of
 each wire per turn, plus 5 inches for connections at the ends,
 then cut off the excess after winding. Sevick said that such a
 line is pretty close to 100 ohms, and my measurements suggest
 that he was right. Two of these in series/parallel gives you a
 pretty good 50:200 balun.

 What are conditions that can overheat it?  Running high power
 (greater than about 500 watts) AND in a condition that places
 high common mode voltage on it. You might also get into trouble
 at somewhat less power with key-down modes like RTTY. High
 common mode voltage will be present if the antenna is severely
 unbalanced (for example, an off-center fed antenna), or if the
 transmission line is close to a half wave (or multiple of half
 waves). At low power, you'll never run into a situation that
 will overheat a balun like this, but you could when running
 high power.

 There's a tutorial on my website that talks extensively about
 common mode chokes. It is NOT about baluns, and I don't pretend
 to be an expert on baluns, but I do know a lot about common
 mode chokes. :)

 http://audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf

 73, Jim Brown K9YC






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Re: [Elecraft] OT: SO-239 Connector Selection

[Brett Howard]

I ended up getting the commercial version of the connector.  There
was the cheapest one the commercial one that was only a very small
amount more and then the top one which was quite a lot more...  All
three were Amphenol connectors and I'd already gone to buy Amp but it
was just coming down to which one...  It appears that they all have
different dielectrics (they mention different values) but I didn't
really find a whole lot on the differences between these dielectric
types.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, Jul 23, 2010 at 2:02 AM, Edward R. Cole kl...@acsalaska.net wrote:
 Since most of you are talking about HF, I suppose they are fine.

 Professionally, I had the most quality control issues with
 PL-259's.  I quickly decided that only Amphenol brand were to be
 bought.  They had much better plating for soldering.  The problem
 usually came from the extra heat required to solder the shield.  Very
 easy to melt the insulation.  All our antenna were specified with
 N-connectors which have gaskets the provide some wx sealing.  Of
 course we double taped connections that would be outside.

 Anything that requires good impedance match will do better with N,
 TNC, or 7/16 style connectors.

 All my cables even down to 500-KHz use N-connector except where
 connection with a radio or commercial antenna come with UHF.

 73, Ed - KL7UW
 at 1296 up I often use sma connectors on low-power equipment.

 --

 Message: 13
 Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 17:54:43 -
 From: Ken Kopp k...@rfwave.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] OT: SO-239 Connector Selection
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Message-ID: acdef2099be54aadb7632b69e498b...@shack
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
         reply-type=response


 My experience with SO-239' / PL-259's -was- at
 VHF and UHF, and I said so in my posting.

 I was made aware of this when the Colorado Springs
 radio club ordered a 4-port divider to feed their 2M
 repeater's antennas and they specified / insisted on
 me building it with SO-239's.  I shipped it and within
 a few days they were complaining of high SWR.

 Before getting the original one back I built and
 shipped a second unit, only to get the same report.
 It was only when I built the 3rd unit with N's did it work
 correctly.

 My friends at the NBS labs ... who originated NBS
 yagi design (W0PW / W0EYE) ... along with the
 particular power divider design ... explained
 what was going on.  The non-50 ohm SO-239's
 connected to the 35 ohm transmission line / power
 divider were influencing the impedance of divider.

 My years at CU's radio astronomy lab and the NBS
 cafeteria represent some of the best learning in
 my career.  I learned much via napkin tutoring done
 by some of the nation's best radio minds.

 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP



 73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
 ==
 BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
 EME: 144-QRT*, 432-100w, 1296-QRT*, 3400-fall 2010
 DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@hotmail.com
 ==
 *temp

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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Brett Howard]

Ok I was referring to a design that was using one core to make a
4:1...  I think the caveat that was being used was that they felt they
could do this and be safe enough with it still being a balun as long
as the load was floating (but I'm not 100% sure thats really the
case)...

So is a multi aperture core good enough for that or would two toroids
be a better idea?

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, Jul 23, 2010 at 11:00 AM, Tom W8JI w...@w8ji.com wrote:
 
 This sounds really similar to a lot of plans that I've seen... One
 other piece that I've noticed on many of these that no one seems to
 ever mention is that the two 1:1's are usually wound in opposite
 directions on each half of the core...  I'm assuming this helps to
 reduce the coupling between the two 1:1's?  Also I'd be interested to
 hear people's thoughts on this improved balun...  Seems to be an
 attractive solution.  It only pictures the schematic here and I kinda
 picture it as being wound similarly but you wire one of the turns on
 one of the feeds from out side to in side.  Essentially the ends
 of the wires would fold back over the core to get to its location

 If you are talking about two cores in the balun, and each core wound with
 half turns and then flipped with a transposed winding, everyone who has
 measured the fancy winding concludes it does nothing overall except move
 things around.

 If you are talking about winding two 1:1 baluns on a single common core and
 using that to make a 4:1 current balun, I can guarantee you that will not be
 a balun. It will unbalance any balanced load placed on the balun's balanced
 terminals. Each transmission line transformer has to be on its own
 independent core. They cannot share a common flux path.

 73 Tom

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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Brett Howard]

I've heard a lot of really great things about balun designs
products...  And in looking at their 4:1 for dipoles and yagi's it
looks like they are simply doing 2 1:1 baluns on a single core.  Looks
to me like they are even wrapped in the same direction and paralleled
on one side then series on the other end.

http://www.balundesigns.com/servlet/the-56/current-balun-4-cln-1-designs/Detail

However their more general one:
http://www.balundesigns.com/servlet/the-69/4-cln-1-balun/Detail

I can't really trace out how its wired up...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, Jul 23, 2010 at 11:00 AM, Tom W8JI w...@w8ji.com wrote:
 
 This sounds really similar to a lot of plans that I've seen... One
 other piece that I've noticed on many of these that no one seems to
 ever mention is that the two 1:1's are usually wound in opposite
 directions on each half of the core...  I'm assuming this helps to
 reduce the coupling between the two 1:1's?  Also I'd be interested to
 hear people's thoughts on this improved balun...  Seems to be an
 attractive solution.  It only pictures the schematic here and I kinda
 picture it as being wound similarly but you wire one of the turns on
 one of the feeds from out side to in side.  Essentially the ends
 of the wires would fold back over the core to get to its location

 If you are talking about two cores in the balun, and each core wound with
 half turns and then flipped with a transposed winding, everyone who has
 measured the fancy winding concludes it does nothing overall except move
 things around.

 If you are talking about winding two 1:1 baluns on a single common core and
 using that to make a 4:1 current balun, I can guarantee you that will not be
 a balun. It will unbalance any balanced load placed on the balun's balanced
 terminals. Each transmission line transformer has to be on its own
 independent core. They cannot share a common flux path.

 73 Tom

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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Brett Howard]

Interesting enough his high power one uses two cores and appears to be
made the same as the budget one that is wound on one core...  Seems
like stacking them on top of one another is going to just couple them
and hinder your isolation but maybe I'm wrong there

http://www.balundesigns.com/servlet/the-78/4-cln-1-dual-core-current/Detail

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, Jul 23, 2010 at 11:31 AM, Tom W8JI w...@w8ji.com wrote:

 Ok I was referring to a design that was using one core to make a
 4:1...  I think the caveat that was being used was that they felt they
 could do this and be safe enough with it still being a balun as long
 as the load was floating (but I'm not 100% sure thats really the
 case)...

 I can 100% guarantee you that does not balance the load. I know the design
 comes from a source considered reliable, but it is seriously flawed. If you
 want a balanced voltage and/or current into a feedline and a real antenna,
 it cannot happen with that design. It not only does not work in theory, I
 have dozens of actual measurements to support it does not work in the real
 world.

 So is a multi aperture core good enough for that or would two toroids
 be a better idea?

 So long as the multi-aperture core does not have mutual coupling between the
 individual transmission line cores, it would work. Unfortunately that is not
 likely either. :-)

 73 Tom

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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

[Brett Howard]

Just bought the last copy of this book that Amazon had in stock for
17.95 + 3.99 in shipping.  Looks like it will be a very nice reference
to have on the shelf...

Thanks!

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, Jul 23, 2010 at 5:21 AM, WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Brett, I would recommend the Book Understanding, Building and Using Baluns
 and Ununs by the late Jerry Sevick, avaliable from CQ
 http://store.cq-amateur-radio.com/Categories.bok?category=Books%3AAntennassearchpath=1547318start=10total=17
 With this book, a BS in Physics, 54 years as a ham and 30 years as an EE I
 finally understood enough to make a balun or an unun.  I don't understand
 them well enough to answer your questions correctly.  I read all the stuff I
 could find on the internet and 50 years of ham magazines before I bought the
 book and was still too confused to pick a core and build the unun that I
 needed.  If you just want a 4:1 balun and don't want a study course, I would
 recommend that you buy one.  If you really need one that works 160 to 10 buy
 an expensive one from a good source, the ones that I tested did not have the
 advertised bandwidth.  I did not test the Elecraft balun, but what I have
 seen of Elecraft engineering would give me confidence to try one.

 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
 K5EWJ

 
 From: Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com
 To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Fri, July 23, 2010 3:53:42 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Balun Questions

 I'll preface this by explaining that I'm a digital guy and I've lately
 decided I want to get a little better understanding of magnetics and
 RF...  Thus why I'm taking on making my own W3NQN band pass filters and
 I've also been interested in building a Balun...

 So I've looked at a few sites describing how to make a 4:1 balun...  One
 such solution is to take 2 100 ohm 1:1 baluns and connect them in
 parallel on the input side and in series on the output side...

 I looked at the Elecraft BL1 manual but I didn't see what material the
 core was...  However in another article I saw someone post the recommend
 getting a FT140-61 and winding 7 to 8 turns on each side to make the two
 100 ohm feedlines.

 So I ran the numbers and 8 turns on a FT140-61 gives you about 100 ohms
 on 160 meters.  Thus two 100 ohm points in parallel gives you 50 ohms in
 and 200 ohms out.  4:1... Great.

 However at say 40 meters...  Each feedline is 430 ohms.  Thus you've got
 a 215ohm input and a 860 ohm output.  This just seems like it would make
 a mess.  Why does it still work?

 Finally I'll explain my final goal...  I've looked at several ways to
 make a 4:1 which involves using two 1:1's.  Then there are methods to
 take 2 4:1's to make a 6:1 (the feedlines are 125ohm windings to pull
 this off).  My final goal is to try to make a 6:1 and use it to use
 ladder line once I get through the wall with coax.  I always just
 figured that a 6:1 would be better as it would have a 50 ohm in and a
 true 300 ohm out.

 However once you get away from the design frequency the feed impedances
 go to pot...  So is there really much difference in the 6:1 and the 4:1?
 I've read of many people doing what I'm talking about with a 4:1 and
 just figured that a 6:1 should provide a better match...  Am I thinking
 right or is the match so terrible anyway that it doesn't so much
 matter?

 Is it just that the thing balances the currents on the outputs and I'm
 just over thinking the matching ability?

 Appreciated gentlemen.

 ~Brett (N7MG)

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[Elecraft] Question for K3 Designers or LCD experts...

[Brett Howard]

Is the custom segmented display on the K3 a TN fluid?

~Brett (N7MG)
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Re: [Elecraft] Receiving 4th Harmonic of AM Station

[Brett Howard]

Very nice!!  Fun test... You're nuts!  But hey so am I.  I take it you
have the 250Hz 8-pole filter in your radio in order for that to happen?

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, 2010-07-23 at 23:34 +, Rick Stealey wrote:
 
 So now we know it wasn't caused by overload.  But since I went to the trouble 
 of hauling my signal generator up to the shack and connecting it to my K3 I 
 figured you guys might like to know how your K3 will stand up to a big signal 
 on the broadcast band.  Let's not be so quick to assume this fantastic 
 receiver can be overloaded to the point where it generates 20 over 9 signals 
 on 160 and 80 meters !!!
 
 The 8640B is connected to the K3 through a coupler, and the antenna is 
 connected to the other port.  The generator is tuned to 940 KHz and the K3 is 
 tuned to 1880 and 3760.
 The generator is cranked up till the K3 hears a signal at about S5 on 1880, a 
 little over my local static level.  The generator is putting out -40 dbm.  S5 
 is about a -100 dbm signal.  
 Most likely the S5 signal is the 2nd harmonic of the signal generator, 60 db 
 down, not caused by the K3, because guess why?  Because putting the 
 attenuator on doesn't kill the signal like it would if it was internally 
 generated.  Your K3 isn't going to be bothered by killer AM broadcast band 
 signals, at least not to the point where it generates 20 over 9 spurs, fear 
 not !!
 
 Just for kicks (I've always wanted to do this) I tuned in some EU stations 
 around 7008.
 Then set the generator to -20 dbm.  Now let me tell you , -20 dbm is one, 
 friggin, HUGE signal. And tuned it down the band until its effect was 
 noticible on the weak signals.  Want to guess how close I could get?  7008.3 
 !!   300 cycles away from weak Europeans, with a 60 db over 9 interfering 
 signal
 
 Rick  K2XT
 
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Re: [Elecraft] added protection for rs232

[Brett Howard]

Holy heck what all did you have to get replaced for it to cost that
much?  Or was it mostly in time spent to find all the broken bits...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, 2010-07-23 at 21:02 -0700, Allen Griffith wrote:
 elieve that a surge from the AC line through the computer WILL damage
 a 
 K3.to the tune of $984.94!!! 



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[Elecraft] SO-239 Connector Selection

[Brett Howard]

Ok figured I'd ask here and see if someone had some input on the
differences here.  Hopefully someone has done more design with these
than I...

My application is that I'm looking for connectors to install on some
high end home made band-pass filters.

83-1R;
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-RF/83-1R-SO-239/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtqi3rrGzC6kucWGwVoNS6TyriIimuNw9A%3d
83-1R-RFX:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-RF/83-1R-RFX/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtqi3rrGzC6kqBNVAfbUIcAaUNmqqZ3zpA%3d
83-798:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-RF/83-798/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtqi3rrGzC6kptFUq3vT%252bWoMcHyGEmWyaU%3d

The 83-1R is a number I've seen a lot in usage and its the connector I'm
leaning toward.  It is also the cheapest of the 3.  I know they are all
going to be good connectors but is there any benefit to going with the
other two versions?  I believe that the RFX version is a commercial
version of the same thing (at only 20 cents more) but I don't know what
the difference is.  Finally the 83-798 claims to be an SO-239A
connector...  I tried doing a search for SO-239 vs SO-239A and in a
quick gander didn't turn up much...  Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks

~Brett (N7MG)

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Re: [Elecraft] SO-239 Connector Selection

[Brett Howard]

Based on W3NQN's filters and rated for 200W.

Makes sense on the teflon insulator...  I assume that that only makes
the difference when doing higher power?  I do think that whenever I'm
making an antenna that is to have a connector blow torch soldered to a
copper pipe or something I'm going to buy one of those!  Now I just
wonder what the difference in the small price jump delta between RFX
and non RFX is...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, Jul 22, 2010 at 6:34 AM, Bob Naumann w...@w5ov.com wrote:
 The 83-798A has a Teflon insulator - this is what makes it different.

 They're all equivalent for low frequency, low power (200w) work which I
 presume your bandpass filters will be.

 High-End? What design?



 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Brett Howard
 Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 8:22 AM
 To: elecraft
 Subject: [Elecraft] SO-239 Connector Selection

 Ok figured I'd ask here and see if someone had some input on the
 differences here.  Hopefully someone has done more design with these
 than I...

 My application is that I'm looking for connectors to install on some
 high end home made band-pass filters.

 83-1R;
 http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-RF/83-1R-SO-239/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt
 qi3rrGzC6kucWGwVoNS6TyriIimuNw9A%3d
 83-1R-RFX:
 http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-RF/83-1R-RFX/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtqi3
 rrGzC6kqBNVAfbUIcAaUNmqqZ3zpA%3d
 83-798:
 http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-RF/83-798/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtqi3rrG
 zC6kptFUq3vT%252bWoMcHyGEmWyaU%3d

 The 83-1R is a number I've seen a lot in usage and its the connector I'm
 leaning toward.  It is also the cheapest of the 3.  I know they are all
 going to be good connectors but is there any benefit to going with the
 other two versions?  I believe that the RFX version is a commercial
 version of the same thing (at only 20 cents more) but I don't know what
 the difference is.  Finally the 83-798 claims to be an SO-239A
 connector...  I tried doing a search for SO-239 vs SO-239A and in a
 quick gander didn't turn up much...  Any input would be appreciated.

 Thanks

 ~Brett (N7MG)

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Re: [Elecraft] Repair backlog catch-up ...

[Brett Howard]

Rene put in a few weekends to get things down to that...  The guy's
dedicated!  Fun guy to talk to...  But you end up finding a lot of guys
like that in this hobby!

Thanks Rene!

~Brett (N7MG)

On Thu, 2010-07-22 at 14:34 -0400, w0...@aol.com wrote:
 This week I sent my K3 for a factory update inasmuch as 4500 K3s have been  
 built since mine.
  
 The pleasant surprise was being told July 19 by Elecraft's Ms.  Madelyn the 
 turn-around would be two weeks.
  
 Thanks, Elecraft crew, one and all!
  
 Bill, W0WOI
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on Order

[Brett Howard]

The main reason why most devices take DC in rather than bringing in
direct AC is because they can pass all the safety work on to the brick
manufacturer and it saves them a lot of money in the regulatory end.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 9:08 AM, Paul Christensen w...@arrl.net wrote:
 Sharing a single power supply between the transmitter and
 accessories is a very good way to create RFI (even with
 a dummy load) due to the pin 1 problem in nearly every
 amateur rig ever built.

 I completely agree with Joe, but I'm guilty of using a common supply for the
 K3 and switching-type accessories.

 However, if a common supply is used with a distribution block, consider
 connecting the K3 direct to the power supply terminals and not a port on the
 distribution block.  Then, if a power distribution block is used, route
 accessories from the power supply terminals to the block, especially if one
 is insistent on running audio accessories from the +12V bus.

 The W2IHY products can be powered by +12V and seem to be very popular.  When
 using  a W2IHY device, it would be better to use the supplied wall-wart than
 be tempted to use a common +12V power bus.  If I was designing a similar
 device, I would rather design it for use with an AC wall transformer (AC
 in/out), then rectify and filter inside the audio device.  The added benefit
 is that bi-polar supply rails can be easily created with an AC input.

 Paul, W9AC.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 DVR question

[Brett Howard]

I don't think there is currently a way to do this.  Your best bet is to
email Wayne and ask that it be added to the list.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Fri, 2010-07-16 at 20:41 -0400, Gary Dezern wrote:
 Anyone?
 
 On Jul 10, 2010, at 4:05 PM, Gary Dezern wrote:
 
  I just installed the DVR module in my K3, and I have a question on how to 
  use it:
  
  
  I like leaving the AF REC turned on full time, as I find it very useful 
  to instant reply a call sign or something else significant
  
  I also like using the voice memories - for example kilo three whiskey 
  oscar whiskey is probably permanently recorded as M1.
  
  Those two items, however, seem to not work well together.  If I have AF REC 
  turned on, when I press M1, instead of the radio TX'ing my callsign, the 
  radio just mutes for a few seconds without transmitting anything at all 
  (and it has the side effect of turning OFF the AF REC.)   (If I turn AF REC 
  off first, the M1 memory works as expected.)
  
  Is there any way to use the voice memories while also recording via AF REC?
  
  Thanks
  Gary / k3wow
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and USB Audio Codec

[Brett Howard]

You're still not going to get access to both IFs at the same time though...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Wed, Jul 14, 2010 at 4:40 PM, Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net wrote:
 I have kind of ignoring this thread, but just realized that it
 addresses a long-term desire of mine.  I would like to tap the IQ
 data for both the main and sub receivers simultaneously for pc
 processing with special eme sw.  I can do one channel using the
 SDR-IQ but there are advantages to having two channels (polarity
 diversity reception).  Both channels need to be phase-locked in
 freq.  My discussions with Wayne indicate that it may be possible
 interface at a later time thru the P3.

 To take advantage of the 15-KHz SDR in the K3 this interface will
 eventually very desirable.  That opens the K3 to equal footing with
 other SDR's to fulfill the no obsolescence promise of SDR.

 73, Ed - KL7UW

 --

 Message: 6
 Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 10:10:17 -0700
 From: Kok Chen c...@mac.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and USB Audio Codec
 To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Message-ID: 2e745a19-d7ed-4bb1-a9c6-d7080d6e1...@mac.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes


 On Jul 10, 2010, at 7/10    2:57 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

   If one were going to provide digital output, it would be far better
   to stream the raw in I/Q data from the DSP's ADC via firewire rather
   than push it through two additional A/D and D/A steps and reduce it
   to a single channel of audio.

 FireWire is not necessarily a great solution either.  It will
 definitely require special drivers at the computer end (viz, the
 Edirol FA-66 that is common in ham SDR circles).

 One good connection that I have come across is S/PDIF that is
 available on the Icom IC-7800.  It allows a connection between the
 radio and the computer that is completely non-galvanic.   No ground
 loops, no RFI, down to -144 dB.

 S/PDIF provides an audio path with up to 20 bits of resolution (about
 120 dB, with 1 bit being 6.02 dB), with 24 bits being an option by
 using the extra 4 steering bits as data.

 The standard sampling rate for S/PDIF is 48,000 samples per second
 stereo, which would support almost 50 kHz of bandwidth on an baseband
 I/Q channel.  S/PDIF provides up to about 30 feet separation between
 equipment.

 Both Firewire and S/PDIF lacks a standard way of passing control/
 status signals. The Flex-5000 (which uses FireWire) used to hack into
 the MIDI (Musical Instrument Digital Interface) channel for control/
 status; but I have not been following that development and it might
 have since changed.  The Icom IC-7800 goes through its regular CAT
 path (RS-232 or CI-V, you get to choose, I believe).

 In any case, if you want a rig like the K3 to support 123 dB of
 dynamic range I/Q output, it will not come cheap.  The Asahi AK-5394A
 is probably the most expensive component in the front end of the
 Flex-5000, and you have to be very careful with the circuit layout to
 get a -125 dB noise floor when mixing analog and digital components.

 We are definitely not talking about 16-bit codecs like the one in the
 SignaLink USB -- which by the way, is a TI/Burr-Brown PCM-2902, and it
 is not the $20 that people have been mentioning, but is $5.85 at
 DigiKey :-).

 73
 Chen, W7AY



 73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
 ==
 BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
 EME: 144-QRT*, 432-100w, 1296-QRT*, 3400-fall 2010
 DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@hotmail.com
 ==
 *temp

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Re: [Elecraft] continuous relay click in RX ANT IN

[Brett Howard]

I had this going on too and a really slick way to fix the problem is
with an RF limiter...

http://www.iceradioproducts.com/reconly.html#rflimiter

I.C.E. makes a very cost effective unit that gets the job done very
well...  I ordered the 196 unit and then I didn't want to have it with
RCA connectors on it so I asked them to build it wit the BNC connectors
like they do on the VHF unit.  They had no problem with that and did so
no extra cost.  

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sun, 2010-07-11 at 18:27 -0300, Jorge Diez - CX6VM wrote:
 ems is the proximity of the antennas.
 
 I was using a sloper for 160 mts from a 118ft tower and the 40-2CD was
 on
 top of this tower.
 
 So I couldn´t connect the 40-2CD in the RX ANT IN.
 
 So I switch the knob in my sixpack to listen in the 40 and then switch
 again
 to TX on the 160 antenna, hope this will not cause a problem in the
 rig?
 
 Thanks! 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and USB Audio Codec

[Brett Howard]

No the K3 already has transformer isolated line in and line out
connections.  These make for very simple connections to onboard sound
cards and if you need an outboard sound card with just two 3.5mm audio
ports these can be had for less than 20 bucks online.  

Keeping things in this fashion keeps the higher noise digital equipment
outside of your highly sensitive receiver.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, 2010-07-10 at 14:50 +0200, Dr. Werner Furlan wrote:
 This is a question to the development team: are there any thoughts or 
 possibilities to add a USB port to the K3 or P3 which could introduce a 
 USB soundcard to the K3 like it is in the IC-7200 or the upcoming TS-
 590s (?) 
 
 73! de Werner OE9FWV
 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and USB Audio Codec

[Brett Howard]

I've got a sound good sound card that I just installed into the computer
and it already is very easy to use digital modes with the K3 without an
external device.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, 2010-07-10 at 12:48 -0700, oe9fwv wrote:
 I don't trust the quality of an external soundcard of this price. It might be
 sufficient for PSK31 but probably not for Winmor. The Signalink USB is good,
 but not for 20 bucks. 
 I have not heard of a problem with the DSP in the IC-7200 or 7600. 
 From what I have heard this is not a real soundcard but the IF passband
 after the DSP is sent to the audio codec via USB. 
 It would make it very easy using the K3 for digital soundcard modes without
 another external device.
 
 73! de Werner OE9FWV
 
 
 


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[Elecraft] YABD - (Yet Another Band Decoder)

[Brett Howard]

Ok so I've been looking at setting up a set of bandpass filters that
are automatically selected based on the K3's VFO.  I'd like later
flexibility to grow this into a much more complicated system with
possible antenna switches and amplifiers...  I know that everyone has
a different setup with their own requirements and everyone wants
things a little different.

So I thought that building a band decoder would be fun.  I'm planning
on building the band decoder using an ARM Coretex M3 processor running
at 48Mhz.  This project is planned to be done completely openly.  I'm
starting a web page for the project here
(http://k3decoder.googlecode.com).  There you can see the beginnings
of the board that we're going to start with.  I've got documentation
on the board as well as the processor that resides on this board.
I've also placed links to the operating system we're planning on
running as well as the schematic capture and layout tools we're
planning on using.  These tools are still preliminary and we're
willing to take suggestions.

The engineering requirements for the 1.0 release of the software is
being put together in wiki form here
(http://code.google.com/p/k3decoder/wiki/EngineeringRequirementsRel1_0).
 Anyone who wishes can leave comments on these requirements.  We'll
discuss it and determine how things should look.  I should be getting
the first development platform here in a few days and will get started
publishing code out to the site that anyone will have access to via
SVN.  While the code will be open to anyone to capture and view during
the process we're probably going to not accept contributions or
patches against the source until the 1.0 release milestone is reached.

The development platform can be purchased for $60USD.  From there
there will be a driver board that a schematic will be created for.
This driver board will connect to the .1 header location at the
bottom of the development platform.  All parts will be purchasable
through DigiKey and part numbers/links to the order pages will be
documented to make it easy for anyone to build one of these and get
the software loaded into it.

I'd greatly appreciate any and all input on what should be included in
a basic band decoder in order to be considered a successful 1.0
release.  If there thoughts and inputs that are beyond initial scope
perhaps I'll start a 2.0 milestone requirements document for further
discussion.

Thanks much!

~Brett (N7MG)
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Re: [Elecraft] YABD - (Yet Another Band Decoder)

[Brett Howard]

Yes we're kinda modeling this to be an open source version of the
KRC2.  Essentially so that anyone can put one together themselves if
they wish.

So imagine it kinda like the KRC2 (except with an OLED display) and
the hood is up so people can cheer and jeer about how it works and see
things get updated and change.  Not to mention that if they want to
try and help they can get access to the code and make improvements
that everyone can take advantage of.

There is a section on the project page where if someone finds an issue
they can submit their issue.  This is the list that keeps getting
talked about so much as far as K3 development stuff.  On this the
list will be public so that anyone who wishes to can put up their
issues.  These issues can then be assigned to people and updates can
be put into these issues.  In other words if another user finds
another way to replicate the issue they can add that information to
the issue.  As well when a developer makes a change they can post the
status of their work to that issue and anyone who wishes to be
notified regarding changes to any issue can subscribe and receive an
email on any new information.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Wed, Jul 7, 2010 at 2:34 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 Brett,

 Can I put in a plug for the Elecraft KRC2?  It may provide a bit more
 flexibility down the road for you.  It is a band decoder and more.
 Maybe not for you because this sounds like something you really want to
 create, but others may not be as ambitious.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Brett Howard wrote:

 Ok so I've been looking at setting up a set of bandpass filters that
 are automatically selected based on the K3's VFO.  I'd like later
 flexibility to grow this into a much more complicated system with
 possible antenna switches and amplifiers...  I know that everyone has
 a different setup with their own requirements and everyone wants
 things a little different.



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Re: [Elecraft] 6M CW

[Brett Howard]

Heck I guess I'll stop doing that...  I've just kinda learned from
listening to the bands.  I'm finally getting my speed up fast enough
that actually carrying on a QSO is possible.  At 8WPM your RST, Name,
QTH, RIG and ANT is a 30 to 40 minute conversation.  ;)  However at
13WPM I've been able to actually have conversations with people about
the K3 find out that they've recently retired and what they used to do
and well all sorts of fun stuff... (I'm referring to a 40 minute
conversation that I had on 40 last night...)  

Then heck I ran into a guy the other day who was only about 20 minutes
bike ride from here.  We ended up having a 1.6 hour or so QSO.  Both of
our brains were going to mush by the end as we were both working hard
for it but hey its fun!

I'm by no means an old salt at the age of 29 but I do try to be polite
and do find it fun to get into the longer QSO's via CW.  I often find
that SSB bores me for casual operating but I do find SSB interesting for
contests.

But anyway just wanted to let you know that your post has hit home with
someone and I'll start sending my call a few times when answering a
CQ...  I usually figure that I want to try and get in there quick before
their auto repeat kicks in  Then if they need a fill we can always
take care of that later.  Guess I've been being rude all this time and
had no idea.

Sorry...

~Brett (N7MG)

On Mon, 2010-07-05 at 16:13 -0500, Sandy wrote:
 This phenomenon is not restricted to 6 meters!  The same thing happens on HF 
 as well: people looking for club numbers, grid squares, counties,etc., 
 etc.  The whole contest mentality has corrupted all the old and polite 
 methods of establishing a QSO when there are no contests at all!  Also the 
 Elmers of today, aided and abetted by the ARRL, have all but completely 
 eliminated the normal calling protocols of yesteryear.  It isn't at all 
 unusual to tune up and send a few V's  and have someone just drop their 
 callsign on you just ONCE!  As I now an old timer in age and amateur 
 radio, I wonder when this happens.  Is this chap calling me?  Is he just 
 testing?  Even if you send QRZ? de W5TVW K you may just get a callsign 
 sent ONCE!  Also people sending: DE W4ABC instead of calling CQ. 
 Newer QRPers answering a CQ call just sending their callsign just ONCE! 
 There isn't that all important OPERATING section still published in the 
 Handbook!  Guess the folks at ARRL thought they could make a few extra 
 bucks by publishing a special book dealing with that subject that obviously 
 everyone ISNT buying!
 I enjoy contests on CW doing QRP and usually these are limited to a small 
 segment of the CW sub-band, and they don't seem to be on every weekend.  6 
 meters used to be a  really fun band back in the AM phone days, but I 
 didn't figure it would be degraded to nothing but hello, goodbye type 
 contacts.
 
 Sorry for this, guess I sound like a grouchy old fart but where has all 
 the politeness gone?
 
 73,
 
 Sandy W5TVW
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
 To: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 2:29 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 6M CW
 
 
 I don't feel that way at all. A contact in which only grids are exchanged 
 leaves me with little satisfaction at all. I at least like to exchange names 
 and QTH. I get enough of the quicky QSOs with contests. I don't need more on 
 six meters or digital contacts. I know I am out of step with the avant 
 guarde, but I don't enjoy six meters much because of these quick exchanges.
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
 K5EWJ
 
 
 
 
 
 From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Mon, July 5, 2010 10:41:55 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] 6M CW
 
 On Mon, 5 Jul 2010 08:29:08 -0700 (PDT), Ken McGuire wrote:
 
 I was frustrated at how slow the chats were on SSB (FM was even worse) -
 it seemed like they were wasting a perfectly good band opening ragchewing
 
 Yep. Same here. Often, an opening on any given path may be there only long
 enough to exchange the grid and report. It's quite frustrating to wait to
 call a station that was S9, then S7, then S5, then S3, then fumes, while
 the time is filled with innanity.
 
 When I turned down to the CW portion of the band, it almost sounded like
 a CW contest weekend.
 
 Yes. I've gotten to the point that I spend most of my 6M efforts on CW,
 only tuning up to the SSB portion of the band when nothing is happening on
 CW. And thanks in part to the proliferation of K3s, there is a lot more CW
 activity than there was only 5 years ago.
 
 73, Jim K9YC
 
 
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[Elecraft] Auto Bandpass Filter

[Brett Howard]

Ok so I'm looking for an auto band pass filter to use with the K3...
Would be slick if the filter could be interfaced directly to the K3 but
I'm planning on needing a band decoder/smart switch for different
widgets later in life that I've been planning on starting so this may be
the opportunity for that project to need to start.

Anyway I've been trying to find all my options and some pros/cons of the
different solutions from people who have experience with them.  These
are the units I've found...  Please let me know if you have experience
with these such as ease of interfacing, build quality, power handling,
longevity, loss, out of band attenuation and what not.

Array Solutions FilterMAX II: 
http://www.arraysolutions.com/Hamation/bandpassfilters.htm#top%20of%
20page

Array Solutions Filter Master (FM-6):
http://www.arraysolutions.com/Products/wx0bbpf6.htm

I.C.E. 419B
http://www.iceradioproducts.com/filtersrf.html#3

DuneStar Model 600:

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Re: [Elecraft] Auto Bandpass Filter (sorry sent too soon)

[Brett Howard]

Ok so I'm looking for an auto band pass filter to use with the K3...
Would be slick if the filter could be interfaced directly to the K3 but
I'm planning on needing a band decoder/smart switch for different
widgets later in life that I've been planning on starting so this may be
the opportunity for that project to need to start.

Anyway I've been trying to find all my options and some pros/cons of the
different solutions from people who have experience with them.  These
are the units I've found...  Please let me know if you have experience
with these such as ease of interfacing, build quality, power handling,
longevity, loss, out of band attenuation and what not.

Array Solutions FilterMAX II: 
http://www.arraysolutions.com/Hamation/bandpassfilters.htm#top%20of%20page

Array Solutions Filter Master (FM-6):
http://www.arraysolutions.com/Products/wx0bbpf6.htm

I.C.E. 419B
http://www.iceradioproducts.com/filtersrf.html#3

DuneStar Model 600:
http://www.dunestar.com/model600.htm

Well crud I ended up sending too soon (hit ctrl+enter on accident)

Anyway I've considered the FilterMAX II as it seems to be the best built
with a nice modular filter replacement scheme but its the most
expensive.  I wish that they were a bit more informative in the manual
and explained what the pinouts were and how the thing determined what
band to be on.  The switches mentioned don't really make a whole lot of
sense as there are more positions mentioned than one can hold as far as
filters...  Confusing to say the least but I'm sure once I had one in
hand I could figure it out.

Then there is the filter master 6 which is a slick little idea in that
its just a coax switch essentially and then one can use individual
filters from Dunestar, ICE, or Array Solutions (I'm sure there are
others that I'm forgetting and I'd like to know about)...  I have the
same gripe about not explaining the pin outs here but I'd bet it has the
same configuration as the FilterMAX II

Then there is the I.C.E. 419B which seems like its awfully small in
comparison to some of the other units.  I begin to wonder about its
power handling but I have a friend who has their individual filters and
seems quite happy with them.  I don't think he uses them very often
though so I don't know about longevity really or about power handling
all that much.  I do mostly CW but would also like to be able to use
this system during a RTTY contest at 100W.

Finally the Dunestar model looks like its ok however power ratings seem
a bit scary.  All they state is that the filters are intended for use
wiht transceivers and then state that this is not to imply a 100% duty
cycle.  What the heck does that mean?  

Anyway input is greatly appreciated.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 DSP Board Upgrade Info

[Brett Howard]

Here are the files that Andy has put together.  I'm sure they'll prove
useful to some:

Elecraft Low Freq. Mods 2010_1
Elecraft Low Freq. Mods 2010_2

Elecraft Low Freq. Mods 2008_1
Elecraft Low Freq. Mods 2008_2

~Brett (N7MG)
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Re: [Elecraft] PSK PTT doesn't work with USB to serial converter

[Brett Howard]

Heck a lot of the current quality DMM's will take this in stride...  One
of the tests we do when demoing meters (and I've seen it done commonly
from reviewers) is to run a meter through the different feature settings
while connected to the mains.  Often we'll just dump the probes into the
wall at 120VAC (or often 240VAC) then slowly turn the meters knob
through all possible settings.  Then run the knob back to off, remove
probes from the wall and power the unit back on.  If its not still
working perfectly and within its calibration spec we won't buy them.
Every Agilent and Fluke meter I've tried this with passed with flying
colors.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sat, 2010-07-03 at 20:30 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Mike and Casey,
 
 DO NOT put an ohmmeter across the RS-232 pins if you value your 
 ohmmeter.  You can use a voltmeter to see what the voltage levels are.  
 They should go from greater than 3 volts negative to greater than 3 
 volts positive - the absolute value of the voltages could be as great as 
 15 volts, but more likely 12 in a PC environment.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 Mike wrote:
  If you can 
  toggle RTS, you could put an ohmeter across the output and see if it 
  changes state.
 

 
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Re: [Elecraft] PSK PTT doesn't work with USB to serial converter

[Brett Howard]

I got a used Fluke 179 for a pretty dang reasonable price that I use for
home use.  I don't see them as all that much more extravagant than say a
K3 purchase.  Its one of those things that can be seen as one of the
best of breeds and will last you a long time.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sun, 2010-07-04 at 09:14 -0500, Don Cunningham wrote:
 Also, Brett, most of us, and most new hams cannot or do not buy Fluke or 
 Agilent meters on our budgets, hi.  Unfortunately the price line we buy 
 won't pass that test.  Just a thought.
 73,
 Don, WB5HAK 
 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Frequency Memory Editor

[Brett Howard]

Its only been released to some of the field testers at the moment.  It
has been getting put through its paces so that its truly ready for prime
time once it drops...

~Brett (N7MG)


On Sun, 2010-07-04 at 19:46 +, d_jo...@sympatico.ca wrote:
 Has the K3 Frequency Memory Editor been release yet?  (Referenced on page 16 
 in Rev D7 of the Owner's Manual).  I've looked in both of the K3 software 
 pages and haven't been able to locate it.
 
  
 
 Tnx  73
 
 Doug,  VE3MV
 
  
 
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Re: [Elecraft] A thought regarding new radios

[Brett Howard]

And don't forget you also improve value by not having to pay for
features that you won't use.  Don't need a tuner?  You don't have to pay
for one...  Don't want two receivers?  You don't have to pay for both of
them...  

Then on another note...  Want two receivers but don't have the money to
pay for one now?  Get on the air with part of the radio and add that
which you want later...  

My family loves my K3 as it has made for an avenue of Xmas presents for
the guy who has everything for a few years coming now... ;)

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sun, 2010-07-04 at 14:36 -0700, Wayne Burdick wrote:
 Some companies bring out new transceiver models every year or two. Our  
 philosophy is different. We'll continue improving the K3, protecting  
 your investment. Similarly, the P3 and KPA500 will extend the  
 capabilities of the K3 without any need to replace the rig itself.
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
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