[Elecraft] Loading coil
It looks like your results are about what is expected. The next step is to transform your 6 ohm Z to around 50 ohms. As stated, probably a small shunt coil across the coax side of the loading coil will do the trick. Just wind a coil, and experiment with turns, probably less than or much less than 10 turns an inch or two in diameter, which will give you 50 ohms. This will shift the resonant frequency slightly, so adjust the loading coil again if necessary, but the shunt coil probably still ok…typically non critical. I assume you are using insulated wire…pvc…??. If so this will slightly degrade performance. Your turns are close spaced, slightly better to space them out slightly, often folks use a string or scrap wire, then after coil is (glued ?) in place, pull off the spacer wire or string. You will need more turns, but probably slight improvement. If you really want to get slightly better performance, use an air core coil, or hold in place with a few plastic strips, or whatever. I would just use your existing coil now, use a shunt coil to bring the Z down, get on the air and enjoy yourself. Later you can design a better coil, etc. you might gain a dB or so, if you want. I like the shunt coil idea because it gives your antenna A DC ground, which gives you some static and lightning protection. Not perfect, for several reasons, and will not protect you from direct or near direct lightning strikes, so use other measures if that is a concern. Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K3S spurius ?
Whenever I see something suspicious on my spectrum analyzer or receiver, my first step is to make sure the preamp is turned OFF and/or put in some additional attenuation. 160 meter signals and BCB are often very strong (too strong). Putting in 10 db of attenuation should cause much more than 10dB of reduced spurious if it is simple overload situation. This is an easy thing to try, but may not help you. Normally a preamp is not indicated for 160 meters, unless you have a very small RX antenna with high loss compared to your typical transmit antenna. Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Simulated stereo
If you can find one, an Orban 245 stereo synthesizer would work perfectly for this application. (Maybe on Flea-bay!) de K7KG On 12/24/2021 2:36 AM, Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP wrote: The K3 (and I think the KX3 and K4) has a simulated stereo function which allows you delay the audio to one channel slightly, which makes signals seem to stand out from the noise. I believe that the radios newer than the K3 also have the ability to create stereo separation by pitch, which helps in picking out CW signals in QRM. My question is: is there some kind of device that you can get that will take the monaural audio from a non-Elecraft radio or a K2 and produce similar effects? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue
Make sure you use USB for 20 meters and LSB for 40. SSB sounds awful if you use the “wrong” sideband. Also make sure the PBT has not shifted, it should be normally very close to centered. 14 MHz and higher typically use USB, and lower frequencies typically use LSB. Sorry if this sounds too basic, however we all have made simple mistakes. I have made more than my share ! Cheers,KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] A or B ?
The most important thing is to choose either A or B and stay with that. It is very difficult to change, I know ! Decades ago I chose B since some rigs did not have the A choice. Many folks who use B do not squeeze many characters, and any potential advantage of the B mode is small (if it exists). I squeeze roughly a half dozen characters and it took me a long time to be comfortable with Iambic B. One reason I still use Iambic B is I have too much time and money invested in my dual lever paddle collection. If I was just starting now, I think I would for sure go to a single lever paddle, then either A or B choice does not make a difference. I have 67 years of CW experience as a ham and some commercial operation, and switching between hand keys, bugs, and Ultimatic (spelling) keyers was easy, and even a brief period using a single lever paddle at a friends house was easy. However when I was stuck with a Iambic A rig on a vacation after years of B operation, my CW was awful. So personally I think the world would be better without B, but keep it as an option since some of us are too ancient to retrain. Cheers, Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] k3 STEPPIR 6Meters
Sent from Mail for Windows 10 If you do not have the added 6 meter element it should be a worthwhile addition. I think it makes the 3 element antenna a 4 element antenna on 6 meters and greatly improves the F/B ratio and adds a small gain. I have not added this to my Yagi, since I seldom have operated on 6 meters, but it looks like it may be possible to add it to the boom from the top of the tower without much trouble since it is not too far out from the mast. At one time I think the cost was less than $100, but probably you could build your own element if you have aluminum scrap antennas. Just an idea, since every dB helps. Rick KL7CW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] High school drafting class
I took drafting back in the 50’s. The typical attire of the science nerds back then included a pocket protector with about 6 pens, a pair of black thick plastic rim glasses, and a slide rule hanging from our belts. This guaranteed we would not be distracted by the girls in HS and University, thus could concentrate on our academic work and some essential (there were real sunspots back in that era) ham radio activity. Fast forward a few years when I was a new Physics teacher. It was an absolute necessity to have good slide rule proficiency back in the pre computer days. In my class room there was a large heavy (demonstration) slide rule hanging from just above the blackboard. The slide alone must have had a mass of 2 or 3 kg, and there were several finger holes drilled all the way through the slide. Since I was a new young teacher, I wanted to impress my students with my great slide rule skills. So I did a demonstration of quickly working the slide rule. Part way through the problem I placed my finger through a hole and then very quickly moved the slide. My rapidly moving finger in the hole quickly approached the metal bars linking the upper and lower scales. I did not pull my finger out in time, and the heavy slide with it’s inertia smashed my finger into the metal end bars. The slide rule made a rather effective finger guillotine. I did not lose my finger, but it hurt for many days, and since I was a new teacher, I could not run outside and cry or say naughty words in front of the class. Also this was near the beginning of class, so I needed to keep my cool, and pretend that nothing had happened for the next half hour while I lectured with tears in my eyes. Cheers, Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K3S CW Optimization
Bert, as stated there is not one correct answer. I have been a CW ham op for 67 years with some maritime CW ops also. In the old days we needed to use our brain filters, since any receiver we could afford was wide as a barn door, and even the more expensive ones had filtering far inferior to what we now have. So for casual operation many of us old guys actually prefer a wider bandwidth for tuning around and even a QSO with no or even some nearby stations, and may only use the very narrow roofing and/or DSP filters in our rigs if the going gets really bad. I believe newer hams probably rely more on a narrow filter (DSP or roofing). When I ordered my K3S a few years ago I got only the 2700, 750, and 400 Hz filters. I ordered the 750 Hz filter directly from Inrad. My plan was to later Order more filters, but the DSP filter is so good that I do not think I will order the 250 Hz filter. In other radios I usually used around 700 Hz to 1000 Hz filters for casual CW, but really needed good 400 Hz and 250 Hz filters for tough (contest) operation. So with The DSP filtering, I think your 500 Hz filtering should be adequate for most or all of your operating. The exception is if you Use your rig in close proximity to other stations (like FD) or a KW within a few blocks, or if you have a very large Yagi in say a 20 meter contest loaded with other well equipped stations. As Jim stated his 1000 Hz filter was probably not needed, just use your SSB filter with your DSP set to 1000 Hz or whatever, and if things get really tough narrow the DSP filter all the way down to 500 Hz or less and your roofing filter will switch in. I do often use my 750 Hz filter, but not sure it would be worth it if I ordered again. Also, sometimes the NR function is a real help, but usually it does a better job with somewhat wider filtering, perhaps even over 1000 Hz in some situations. If budget is not a consideration, and you like go for serious contesting, and sometimes DX, then a filter less than your 500 Hz filter may be worthwhile, so spend some time on CW. As to the set up as Jim suggested get and read the Fred Caddy book. Good info on setting up where the switch in point for various roofing filters may be different than the BW setting (I set mine up slightly different than the Elecraft suggestion). Also Fred’s, and Elecraft books offer some good advise on how to best use NR, NB, and APF and other buttons. The threshold settings are important, and the settings for signals down in the noise on 160 may not be the same as for typical ham operation. Enjoy your K3S, I sure enjoy mine, and do experiment since some CW folks use AGC and others ride the RF gain control. I am sure many will have other equally good or better suggestions, so just experiment awhile before you order more roofing filters.Rick KL7CW K3S KX2 KX1 etc. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KX2 Low Power
The first thing I would check is what voltage (under TX load) is actually reaching the KX2. Check this in the menu and also right near where the power enters the KX2. Full power is only possible With a good “stiff” power supply. If you use the internal battery pack, the power will drop off, perhaps around what you get, after a little use, but then you can operate for some hours at QRP power levels. If you run the KX2 with a good AC power supply which puts out hopefully at least 13 volts, you should get the full specified power. Even something like a 12 volt gel cell, will soon drop down below 12 volts and may or may not support full power. If you have small wires between an external supply and an in line fuse this could be a slight possibility. Check the above things out first since it is an easy step. If you are measuring the power output with an inline SWR/wattmeter into an antenna without perfect 50 ohm SWR of 1:1 the power reading from it could easily be off by 50 %. Good Luck, Rick KL7CW KX1, KX2,K3S, etc. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Buying a used K3(s)
Before buying my K3S a few years ago I had never owned a pan adaptor or considered it necessary. Now I find my P3 a very useful accessory and would not want to be without it for my home station. One example: up here in Alaska at 61 degrees N, often most of the bands are “dead”. I can go into the shack and quickly scroll through the bands and see if any signals are on the band. Typically if a signal shows up on the P3, it might be workable, but if it does not show up, probably not workable. On bands like 160 meters with little activity, I can immediately see if it is even worth sitting down at the operating desk, or I may decide to watch TV, read, or go out skiing. Occasionally I dig out my microphone and operate SSB. Sometimes on a 75 meter net, I want to talk to another ham, so can see on my display that there is a (relatively) open frequency 13 KHz up, so just ask him to QSY up 13 so the net can continue on “it’s” frequency. Also I have 2 or 3 antennas on some bands, with the P3 I can quickly see which works best and also that my RX array may be better for RX than my other antennas. Also I can electronically rotate my RX array and quickly see which direction has the best S to S+N ratio, which is not always the setting for max signal. I do not need a big, or colored display. You can set the P3 off to the side and not be distracted except when you need it. I set my P3 up to cover 50 KHz of a band so can see where or if there is any action. Now if I only had a display weighing only a few ounces for my backpacking QRP rigs ! I really enjoy my K3S and have no plans to “upgrade” personally, even though budget is not an issue. Enjoy your Elecraft rigs, I have 3 of them ! Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KXPD2 screws
I have thoroughly enjoyed my KXPD2 iambic paddle. I do not consider the finger spacing “bizarrely wide”. My Kent dual lever paddle which I used happily for decades, is spaced about the same. We all have our own preferences, so when I ordered my N3ZN paddle some years ago I did opt for a model with slightly less space. We all have our preferences, and if a parameter happens to be important, great, specify that. I have used dozens of paddles in my 66 year ham career, some with wide spaces, some narrow, some with magnetic return, some spring return and made peace with nearly all of them, even with my KX1 paddle which I still use occasionally for ultra portability. Personally if I was budget constrained I could easily enjoy my KX2 paddle or even the old Kent wide spaced paddle as my only paddle. I have even tested and used some of the foreign paddles in my shack which I am sure cost well over $500 and consider the KXPD2, even with its wide spaced finger pieces, a close second choice. Perhaps this is not relevant, but I enjoy very hot sauce on nearly everything. I do not consider mild hot sauce inferior, or expect others to choke down my sauce. Just an old CW guy, Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Kidde Smoke detectors
I had several 7 year old Kidde wired smoke/CO detectors on two levels. I only run 100 watts, but occasionally triggered alarms on 160 meters where my vertical is only 30 feet from the house. I replaced all detectors with First Alert units which come with a 10 year back up battery. Never any trouble with the Kidde or First Alert units on 80-6 meters. I never installed any ferrite or ran a high power amp so no idea how they would respond to 1KW plus. The First Alert units do not have the voice warning, but give coded beeps for fire and CO. I tried one unit first, then since my old ones were 7 years old, just replaced them all. This is not a scientific test with a sample size of ONE. Just an idea to try, and my new units have only been installed less than 2 years. Good Luck. KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Tune led
I have an idea which should work as an easy to build tune indicator. I have used an LM567 tone decoder (8 pin DIP) which costs $2.22 from Mouser electronics. The Mouser data sheet shows possible circuits. I use it to drive my telegraph sounders from off the air CW signals. I set mine up for about an 80 Hz BW and for 600 Hz signals. The drive level is not too critical and it seems relatively immune to weak adjacent signals. It will take a handful of parts, but should work just fine for your purpose. You could even build two of them and have one peaked on say 580 Hz and one on say 620 Hz and both would flash if you tune to 600 Hz. Even a 3 light display if you like lights a red one for just too low, a green one for right on freq. and a blue one for tuned just a bit to high. I use a potentiometer to set the center frequency, although you could replace this with a fixed resistor when you get it right. The LM586 can drive (or sink ?) up to 15 ma, so should be fine direct ly driving a 5 ma or less LED. If questions you can reply off list to my ARRL or QRZ e mail. I posted this since others may also have a use for these ideas. Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K3S filter problem
About 2 years I had a similar problem with my K3S. I do not remember exactly what was wrong, but think It had something to do with how or where the filter pins were inserted. I re installed the filters correctly and all was OK, so I would check this out. Rick KL7CW KX1 KX2 K3S, etc. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] stripping insulation
I have found the solder iron method works for all my Elecraft projects, and for some but not all “enamel” wire from other sources. I just use a moderate temperature soldering station. I think the important clue is to place a glob of solder on the tip, place the wire in the glob, and add a bit more solder for the perhaps 10 or 20 seconds it may take. Another way is to use a scrap of fine grit sandpaper in your fingers and gently stroke toward the end of the wire. If you need to scrape, or sandpaper the wire and do not get off all the enamel, it is easy to finish the job with a solder blob since you should get good heat transfer into the wire. Make sure you use good tin/lead rosin core solder which will tin the wire nicely. Happy solderingKL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] zero-beating a KX1
If you do a google search on KX1 zero beat indicator or cw zero beat indicator you will see several circuits demonstrated. Some like the one which uses the LM567 (non SMT) part and had a white LED seemed to be good, much less than 100 Hz BW and had the schematic, but some others seemed to be much too broad, perhaps hundreds of Hz wide. My circuit needed quite a bit of audio drive, so rigged up a small 500-500 CT audio transformer and used the primary as a autotransformer to double the audio voltage to the circuit which did not change the earphone volume but enabled the detector to operate without opening up the audio gain too much on any of my rigs. Good Luck Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] zero-beating a KX1
You will enjoy your KX1, as I have mine. I made thousands of QSO’s. If you can “zero-beat” within approximately 100 Hz this should be plenty close most of the time. I am a musician so I just adjusted the tone a bit above high C which is an octave above middle C. Actually a D is 587 Hz, which is very close. In your case, I would see if the N0SS website is still active, which it was long after he became a SK. If you can find the schematic, it should be an easy build. I built a tone detector many years ago to drive my telegraph sounders many years ago. I used a $2 eight pin DIP tone decoder chip still available from Digikey and others. It was a LM567 and I set it up for a 80 Hz BW and 600 Hz detect frequency. It is also available for around $1 in the SOIC pkg. I put in a LED which flashes right along with the CW when my RX is tuned close to 600 Hz. The data sheets give info on designing your circuit. Adjust the level into the chip so it reads the CW, but not the noise, not at all a critical adjustment. Another idea is to build a 600 Hz oscillator, or get a tuning fork, and just match the frequency, however not all folks can quickly match frequencies. Possibly the best idea is to build a sharp 600 Hz audio filter, and switch it into the circuit when zero-beating and also it will be useful for operating in tough conditions. A deluxe version on the tone detector could even have something like a 560 Hz, a 600 Hz, and a 640 Hz Hz decoder and use a different color LED for each frequency….really an overkill, but we all like flashing lights ! Good Luck Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Questions about KX2 possible purchase
I have been operating QRP portable for about 65 years. Until about 15 years ago when I got my KX1, I mostly used linked dipoles, and other hard to erect antennas. Often I did not even set up for portable operation in a campground, mountain top, or just because it was too much effort. All that changed with my KX1 with a built in ATU. A typical antenna for casual portable operation is a simple 26 foot piece of wire and a 17 foot counterpoise wire laying on the ground. This worked great for 40, 30, and 20 meters, got me on the air in a few minutes, and produced many hundreds of QSO’s from my locations in Europe, the UK, and from various places around the “lower 48” states. Now for sure this simple antenna was not equivalent to more complex antennas which I sometimes erect for field day, etc. So I would get the ATU for sure, since compromise, or very compromise antennas are often your only possibility. There are other “magic” lengths of wire which enable operation on many other bands with an ATU. I now have and enjoy a KX2 with more power and a better ATU. I bought the AX1 since money was not a concern, however I suspect that many (most) wire antennas will outperform it, especially on 30 and 40 meters. You need to consider which modes of operation, the power level, then number of hours of operation in a portable expedition, etc. before deciding the battery configuration. One possibility is one internal pack, then an appropriate external battery pack with enough capacity for an activation. So far I really enjoy my KX2 with the paddle on CW and have even tested it on SSB a few times. No significant experience yet with the AX1. Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K3S poor CW
About a decade ago I used contest software to key my Ten Tec via a home brew optical serial port adaptor. It worked but not perfectly, some characters delayed or truncated, especially with high speed CW. Changed to a winkeyer with USB interface. This has always worked great with all rigs, including my present K3S. I now use a windows 10 PC, but not N1MM software. Others have reported success with the winkeyer, and you may find some of the other features nifty also. Good Luck Rick KL7CW KX1, KX2, K3S, etc. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K4
Ralph, it is very easy to see if the mixing is happening in a RX or spectrum analyzer is to just dial in some attenuation. If the problem is within the device and you put in 10 dB of attenuation you will typically see a much greater decrease in the inter mod, probably 20 dB or much more. If the mixing happens outside the RX, a 10 dB attenuation should result in a 10 dB reduction of the inter mod. On the lower HF bands, with reasonable antennas, preamps are not usually required or even recommended. Sometimes even folks use some attenuation on say 160 meters. There are many possibilities for external mixing, not just the ones you mentioned. For example in other devices in house, such as a transmitter, TV preamp, SWR meter on another antenna, etc. Just one example I recently encountered, My 160 meter preamp I used on my RX array mixed two AM radio stations. It had back to back “protective” diodes. After I abandoned this published design, I built a very robust preamp, no protective diodes were necessary, and I was able to use the array from below 500 KHz to well over 7 MHz without a BPF or HPF. I would guess that the mixing is occurring in your immediate neighborhood, not many hundreds of yards away. I would walk around the area with a portable SW RX, even a less than $100 one or even a thrift store battery powered one will probably be plenty sensitive, at least mine picks up SW stations many thousands of miles away with it’s 3 foot whip antenna.Rick KL7CW no problems with my K3S. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] 75 ohm coax
If your 75 ohm coax has a steel/copper coated center conductor, be sure to test it for loss on the lowest frequency band you will use. I experimented with a steel core 160 meter antenna and found it had some additional loss and probably due to the inductance it could be shorter for resonance (10 % perhaps ??) so I abandoned the idea. Never noticed the effect on higher frequencies. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] 75 ohm coax
If you have 75 ohm coax, I would just try it. If the Z of the antenna is in fact around 35 ohms, the Z at the shack end may be close to 35 ohms on some bands, but on others the Z will be transposed to well over 100 ohms with an SWR probably over 3 to one. One of my dipoles has a SWR at the top of 75 meters of approximately 4:1, and I occasionally venture up there, but my K3S with internal tuner does not complain and quickly matches it to about 1:1. Not ideal and this is not the way I usually build my antennas, but the loss is not too bad. If you can build a unun with approximately a 1:2 ratio this should solve your problem. If it does not cover all the way from 80 to 10 with low loss, I would not worry too much about say 10 and 12 meters now, since some loss, and/or lower power output should not be a problem with our sunspot situation. If you happen to have lots of 75 ohm cable, you could parallel two runs of exactly the same length, the pair would have a Z of 37.5 ohms, so nearly perfect if your actual antenna Z is in the vicinity of say 25 to 45 ohms. Not suggesting you spend much money on the coax, but if it is cheap or free, you could do this. Later if you change antennas you would have an extra coax run already in place. The power handling of the dual coax runs would be at least the same as a single run, and the loss could be either slightly higher or lower with the dual run depending upon whether the loss is I squared R, or due to the dielectric characteristics, but I would be surprised if the loss differed much at the HF frequencies. Just another idea to think about, not necessarily a recommendation. Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] CW
N6IET has some good insights. For sure some methods of learning code are more efficient than others. For example, sending letters at a high speed, but leaving more space, or not memorizing the letters from a chart. HOWEVER many of us did everything wrong and still progressed to high speeds in spite of these transgressions. For example, about 69 years ago a neighbor kid and I strung wires between our houses. We made up our own code, some common letters had many dots and dashes and other seldom used letters had only a dot or two. We also memorized the chart. However we became moderately successful in this strange code. Perhaps 5 years later we entered the Boy Scouts and once again memorized the Morse code and passed the tests. For a short time we could converse in either code, but he never moved on to ham radio. I was the school sponsor of a HS radio club, and one field day we did not have enough operating positions, so no problem, some of us just climbed up into a few nearby hills and had QSOs with each other and our hacked flashlights at perhaps 12 WPM. Most of the kids had no problem adapting to the light signals and most had zero experience with light. Several times in my 65 year ham career I started learning to read American Morse (the landline code) on a sounder, which was easy, but never followed through with this, but even without practice I can still read the sounder at least at 18 WPM with “our” Continental Morse code. The brain is an amazing organ and capable of much more than we often realize. However there are no real shortcuts, so hundreds of hours of operation is required for moderate speeds, and many hundreds or perhaps thousands of hours are required to become proficient at “HIGH speeds”, which I will call over 45 WPM. Some folks will not be successful at speeds more than about 35WPM, but these speeds were seldom required, even when I operated as a shipboard CW op, and also as a land based coastal CW op where most traffic was at 20 WPM or less, and seldom over 25WPM. Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KX1 VFO Issue
Tony, I agree with Don. I have an early KX1 which is very used, probably thousands of QSO’s. My VFO problem only showed up after perhaps a decade of heavy use, so I doubt that any normal person would ever need to replace it more than once in a normal lifetime. However if they are still inexpensive and available you could pick up two since they may not be available in another 20 years. Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KX3 signal source
If your Siglent does not have enough second harmonic energy, the idea presented to just hang a 1N914 across the output is a good idea except most of the harmonic energy generated will be on the odd harmonics. So if you need a stronger signal just tune your Siglent to 1/3 of 50 mHz which is 16. etc mHz. The third (and 5th, 7th, etc ) harmonics should be plenty strong. You may need to crank your Siglent up a bit to get the desired diode action. In theory this idea should work. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3S Filter Shape Factor
Several times over the last 5 years INRAD has offered 700 Hz filters for the k3/K3S. For casual CW operation something like a BW of around 700 Hz is often just about ideal. I equipped my K3S with this filter and do use it from time to time. Something like a 400 Hz or 250 Hz filter is still required for very tough situations. The DSP filtering does such a good job with my 400 Hz or SSB filter, that I do not consider my 700 Hz filter a necessity, although some CW folks may still want to consider this. Probably something like the 500 Hz filter with the 3.1 shape factor would be a good alternate solution, however you may still want a sharp filter for very tough situations. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Slightly Unbalanced dipole?
Over a decade ago I did some un scientific experiments to investigate this subject. I set up a test transmitter a few hundred feet away from my rotary 40 meter dipole. I took some field strength measurements with the dipole, then lengthened one half of the dipole perhaps 6 inches and shortened the other half by the same amount. The field strength measurements were the same. I believe I also did the same thing again with something like a one foot lengthening and one foot shortening, and once again no change in the signal strength. I did not write down the SWR, but if my memory serves me correctly there was no significant change in that either. I did have a good feed line choke which may have helped prevent adverse effects from this slightly unbalanced dipole. This was not a scientific test so errors could have easily been something like a dB and also this was done in the near field which is not the best way to make measurements. So I feel confident that an unbalanced c ondition of a few percent will probably not cause any measurable problems. Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Why not 700 Hz filter for k3, k3
I bought my K3S about 30 months ago and also a 700 Hz roofing filter from Inrad. I have operated nearly 100 % CW for 64 years, and am glad I got this filter. Through the years I have found that something like approximately a 700 Hz filter is very helpful in scanning the bands and for casual QSO’s. However if you are on a budget something like a 1000 Hz or even one of the SSB filters will give your nearly identical performance since the Elecraft DSP filtering is so good. I cut my CW teeth in the old days with wide bandpass receivers and we used our brain filters quite effectively so enjoy a somewhat wider filter so we will be aware of things happening near our operating frequency. Now for sure in contest operating I do often need or want to switch in my 400 Hz filter often. I do agree with IK4EWX that CW sounds SLIGHTLY better (to my ears) with crystal filtering than using mostly DSP filtering, however the difference is small in most situations. So if you are a serious CW operator and have the extra funds you may appreciate the 700 Hz filter, however something like the 500 Hz filter or a wider filter with DSP should be satisfactory for many folks. Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] loss of RX sensitivity
Scott, The problem you describe is actually quite common in electronics. In the telephone industry, especially in the “good old days” with wire cables, sometimes with many splices it was common to get drop outs. These could be due to a splice, wire wrap connection, oxidized relay contact or whatever, especially with only low level signals. If the circuit also had a DC voltage on it, the problem often did not exist. In fact it was common on critical circuits for the FAA or military, or whatever to sometimes just put “sealing current” on certain circuits just to be sure it was reliable. Often we used 24 volts DC or less with only a few ma of current. At one time I had many phased verticals which were controlled by many relays. Occasionally the received signal would drop by many S units. Sending a single dot, even with QRP or QRPP power always cleared the problem, sometimes for weeks or months. So it could be a connection in the antenna system, a plug on a circuit board, or even a relay. I have never experienced trouble with Elecraft relays personally. Sometimes PL-259 center pins are not correctly soldered, and can present similar symptoms. You could try a random wire, or even something like an 80 meter dipole on 30 meters, just to see if it was anywhere in the antenna system. Even a volt or two is often enough to punch through a poor solder or oxidized connection, but even something like a 0 dBm signal is just not enough. I have identified problems with BNC connectors and adaptors purchased at ham flea markets which are just not reliable and are probably factory rejects. So look into your antenna system before you dig into your rig. You could also hook a signal generator to the rig and see if it receives OK on all bands with something like less than an S9 signal. Be sure to not transmit into your generator, and/or set your tx to very low power. Good Luck Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] RF miracles continue to happen
I have been a ham for 64 years and continue to be surprised. For example about 3 years ago I decided to try QRP CW on 160 meters. I live in Alaska and the nearest significant ham population is in Seattle, which is about 1500 miles away. I have an inverted L and only a mediocre radial field. QSO’s over about 1500 miles have usually been quite difficult if not impossible with my 100 watt rig. For a transmitter, I quickly constructed a breadboard 5 watt battery powered transmitter, which probably did not meet FCC specs, but my reasoning was that the nearest active hams were over 40 miles away, and probably no one would hear my flea powered rig anyway. I did not have a battery powered receiver, so I tacked on temporary 1500 pF capacitors across each of the 80 meter antenna coils in my trusty modified KX-1. Previously the KX-1 was rather deaf on 160 meters, but with the mod it received about the same as my regular station receiver. In only a few hours of operation in 2 or 3 contests I worked about 6 west coast states, Texas, and Japan. Most of the QSOs were over 2000 miles. I was very surprised that this would even be possible. So please continue to try things which seem to be logically impossible. If you have a KX-3, go out in the woods during the next contest and try 160 meters, perhaps with a low dipole in the trees. Good regional contacts should be very possible, and with none of the noise present in urban areas should be a very relaxing experience. Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Counterpoise
I believe that most pedestrian mobile operators suggest walking away from the direction of your QSO when you utilize a dragging radial. An elevated counterpoise would probably be the same. Perhaps two decades ago I modeled single radials and counterpoises, and if my memory is correct I believe they all indicated that the wire should point in the general direction of your desired radiation. The above statements assume your radiator is more or less vertical. My (poor) models showed only a slight advantage in that direction….possibly only a very few dB.My portable antenna for my KX1 is usually a 17 foot radial laying on the ground and a 26 or 27 foot wire more or less vertical, or an inverted L. This is a very satisfactory portable antenna for 40, 30, and 20 meters. However not equal to my linked dipole with an apex up over about 25 feet which is heavier and harder to set up. Sometimes if this 17 foot wire is elevated, it will still tune all 3 bands, but sometimes I need a longer counterpoise wire to tune it up on 40 meters with the built in KX1 tuner. Probably 2, 3, or 4 symmetrical radials or counterpoise or radial wires would be the best solution if possible. The single radial solution is a compromise which is often enough to get you on the air and make some (good ?) QSO’s. Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report
Hello Kevin; You make this net such great fun! Just saying thanks! Dwight WM5F -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net On Behalf Of kevinr Sent: Sunday, August 5, 2018 6:16 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report Good Evening, Twenty meters was quiet and weak with moderate QSB. Forty meters was such that none of the people I called could hear any of the others. At times I was trying to work three signals at once. But even though the order may be off we got it done. Except for dragging in WG7?? Forty meters was noisy from a number of sources, QSB was higher, and the band was weak except to WM5F and W6JHB. However, when forty meters gets to this stage the next few nets are usually better. Over the last couple of weeks I have noticed the transition into fall. Grass is turning brown. The sun is setting noticeably earlier, the hummingbirds are thinning out, the salmon berries are almost gone, and the foxgloves have gotten the the very last blossom. It's time to start gathering wood before the winter rains make the tracks too muddy. Hopefully they'll find a way to put out all the fires we have out west. I read this article earlier today proposing a concussive means of separating flame from fuel. https://warontherocks.com/2018/08/shocking-wildfires-into-submission-a-proposal/ Whatever helps them gain control of these firestorms is OK with me; even if it is loud. On 14050.5 kHz at 2200z: K6XK - Roy - IA AB9V - Mike - IN W0CZ - Ken - ND On 7045 kHz at z: WM5F - Dwight - ID K0DTJ - Brian - CA K6PJV - Dale - CA W6JHB - Jim - CA N6KR - Wayne - CA WG7(X?) pieced together from a number of folks but no response on call. 73, Kevin. KD5ONS __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to dwightander...@roadrunner.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] FM station QRM
Mike, I have not had this particular problem with my Elecraft rigs, but have solved similar problems on other equipment. The first question I will ask do you have resonant antenna for 15 meters. If so often this in itself will attenuate an FM signal by at least several S units. If you have a transmitting type low pass filter with a cut off frequency above 10 meters, or above 6 meters if you use this band, you could try putting it between your rig and your antenna. However these filters would not be appropriate if the antenna has any significant SWR…say over 2:1. This might give you enough attenuation of the FM signal and I suspect the filter would introduce less than a dB of loss in signal. If this does the trick, but introduces too much loss on TX, you could move the filter inside the rig, but route it so it would only be in the RX path. Another idea is to try a coax trap in the rx path only, would only involve a T connector and possibly a few adaptors….research this in an antenna handbook, etc. You could try this on the rx jack on the rear panel first then move it inside. Another idea instead of a coax stub, try an LC trap…just a series C and small L (a few turn coil…very small) shunted across the RX path. Either of these ideas may or may not give you approximately the 30 dB attenuation you will need. Once again, if you have something like a random wire, endfed half wave, etc type of antenna it may let in lots of the FM signal, but a resonant Yagi, or even a dipole often, but not always, will be a rather poor antenna for the FM broadcast band. Just another thought. Try turning off your preamp for 15 meters….probably not needed for 15 meters…however since the QRM is only S6, I doubt that this is the problem. Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] A little late, but.... CQ WPX (CW) going on right now
Thanks Wayne!!! I am having a blast just with the KX3, PX3, and KXPA100, what great designs!!! The 20 M band is going great!!! I'm just spending a few minutes here and there today and got through on the first try to UK, Finland, Slovak, and Czech. Back to the radio Much Regards, Dwight WM5F -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net <elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net> On Behalf Of Wayne Burdick Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2018 7:50 PM To: Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> Cc: k...@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Elecraft] A little late, but CQ WPX (CW) going on right now Hi all, I should have sent this yesterday, but it’s not too late to get in on the action: It’s the CQ WPX CW weekend. This is one of the best contests of the year in which to work some new countries, test your antennas, try a new rig, etc. 20 meters, in particular, is really hopping. The exchange is simple; just (starting with ‘1’). Full rules here: http://www.cqwpx.com/rules.htm This is a great contest for QRP, because all of the big-gun contest stations worldwide are using their high-gain antenna arrays (which help with signal strength on both ends). I was out hiking using the KX2 and the AX1 20/17 meter whip prototype (4’ long) today. Made about 10 contacts in 10 minutes with 10 watts (parallelism not intended :) Best DX was Uruguay. 73, Wayne N6KR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to dwightander...@roadrunner.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K3S
I am mostly a CW op so will leave it to others to offer suggestions on SSB filters. I have owned or operated rigs with various narrow CW filters and none sound anywhere near as good as my K3S with my 400 Hz filter. If you are interested in even a moderate amount of CW, I think this filter is a good purchase. The K3S sounds just perfect with this filter, and you can narrow down the passband even further with the DSP filtering. On other rigs I often needed to switch in something like a 200 Hz roofing filter when the going got really rough in a contest or DX pile up. My plan was to add the 200 Hz filter to my K3S, but now doubt that I will even bother. If CW contesting is a big interest of yours and if you have plenty of money in your budget, possibly the 200 Hz filter will help occasionally. I have a 700 Hz filter, which INRAD offers from time to time, and thought it would be my favorite filter for casual CW operation, however since the DSP with an SSB filter, or the 400 Hz filter sound so good on CW, I do not consider it necessary. I believe you can upgrade to the 2.8 kHz from the stock 2.7kHz filter for a modest cost which some SSB ops consider worthwhile. I use resonant antennas, however I have the internal tuner since I want to occasionally venture into parts of bands where my antennas have higher SWR. Rick KL7CWmostly CW since 1954 A Happy K3S owner for about 2 years Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K3S decoder
Several years ago in a WPX contest I could easily copy most European stations at nearly any speed. However some loud stations, I believe from Finland and Arctic Russia, sounded like a nearly solid tone if they sent much above approximately 18 WPM. I have noticed this on other occasions when signals passed nearly over the north pole. I have also noticed this when I have operated from north of the arctic circle in Europe. Repeatedly calling CQ at > 35 WPM is fine when they get answers nearly every time, but often they did not get any answers for long periods of time. If the DX would have slowed down (say to 16 or 18 WPM) for a CQ occasionally they would have probably picked up some of us who are propagationally and/or speed challenged and got a valuable multiplier like my Alaska section. I have operated as a maritime shipboard and also as a shore station CW op many decades ago. If we had long or complicated traffic to pass we would often slow down to <20 WPM even if both of us could copy faster. I did not have my K3S during that WPX contest, but doubt that even its good decoder could have done much with some of these 35+ WPM polar signals. Rick KL7CWPalmer, Alaska Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report
Wow, makes me want one!!! The QSB and noise was running S7, pretty extreme, but the signal broke through and sounded very clean here in ID. Much Regards Dwight WM5F -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dick Dievendorff Sent: Sunday, August 6, 2017 5:47 PM To: Brian Hunt <huntin...@coastside.net> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report It was a KPA1500 engineering prototype. 73 de Dick, K6KR > On Aug 6, 2017, at 17:41, Brian Hunt <huntin...@coastside.net> wrote: > > That 1500 watts sure sounded sweet! > > 73, > Brian, K0DTJ > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email > list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to > d...@elecraft.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to dwightander...@roadrunner.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] mic
Hello Fred; I did not find much information on the web about using aviation headsets on ham radios. However if you search for using these headsets with gamming computers, there is a lot more information. Eventually I found the following information. I was surprised how much I like the noise cancellation and the quality of the sound. I have a window fan running in my shack in the summer. I found the following adapter that worked for my KX3 and a Bose Aviation headset. At least for my headset the noise cancelation is only the earphones not the microphone. http://www.sportys.com/pilotshop/general-aviation-twin-plugs-to-pc-headset-a dapter.html?___SID=U http://www.pilotshop.com/catalog/pspages/pilotUSA40.php or here I did find a schematic on the web but never tried to build it. https://www.flightsim.com/vbfs/content.php?1985-How-ToAdapt-Aviation-Headset s-To-Computers Much Regards Dwight WM5F snip ** Just curious ... I inherited a David Clark noise cancelling aviation headset/mic from a neighbor who was a US Forest Service pilot. I've never tried it, the connector is strange. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] kx1 antenna matching
Stan, Congratulations on getting your antenna working on all 3 bands. The 25 ft radiator is a very good length for 30 and 20 meters and good enough for 40. With the radiator vertical, sloped, or set up as an inverted L you should get many good QSO’s often from 600 miles to around 2000 miles, depending upon band and conditions. QRP DX on 20 and 30 of well over 2000 miles will sometimes be possible, but often with poor signal reports. However much of my fun has been rag chewing with stations on 40 meters lets say less than 600 miles away. Sometimes I used the 25 ft sloped so it is partially horizontal and sometimes use an elevated 34 ft counterpoise wire which I throw over a tree branch, or even lay on top of bushes. Operation from the UK, especially in the non summer months, often in the daytime, was very productive, especially from something like 200 miles to roughly 500 miles…..many long rag chews on 40 to the Netherlands, France, and occasionally to the opposite corner of the UK. Sometimes late afternoon or nighttime conditions are OK also. We are now in the low part of the sunspot cycle, so not sure how this will work. DX on 20 with the radiator vertical (or mostly vertical) is not too hard to work, but QSO’s are often “RST 339, tnx QSO 73’s”. Do consider half wave end fed antennas with a good matching device…many QRP folks really like them…I do not have much experience, but they have worked fine the few times I tried them. A linked dipole is what I set up if I am going to be in a contest, or am operating for a long time, especially if there is a tree support for the center of the inverted V at least something like 25 feet high. This will give you some good moderate angle radiation for good coverage out to say 1500 miles ROUGHLY on 40 and some real DX is possible on 20, especially when conditions are very good. Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KX-1 antenna matching
Stan, I have used a kx 1 for thousands of QSO’s many in the field on 40, 30, and 20 meters. My usual field antenna is a 26 ft piece of wire and one or two 17 counterpoise wires. If the counterpoise (radial) wires are laying directly on the ground, usually I get a very good match on all 3 bands. If part or all of the counterpoise/radial wire is elevated, then sometimes I clip on an extension of about 8 feet to get a better match if the SWR is higher than about 2:1 (probably only necessary on 40 meters sometimes). Occasionally for 40 meter elevated counterpoise operation I have even used a single 34 ft counterpoise wire if I happen to have one available….not likely when backpacking. I would just use your 16 or 17 ft counterpoise for 20 meters…it might improve your 1.6:1 SWR, however I still have my original PA transistor and have often operated with SWR’s around 2:1 or higher, however my goal is to try not to exceed about 2:1. Usually I can get SWR down somewhere between 1:1 and and perhaps 1.9:1 (just a guess) on 40 meters, and often about the same or even slightly better on 20 and 30 meters. I always carry a 8 ft piece of wire with a big clip on the end. Often clipping it to a metal picnic table, guard rail, chain link fence, or car body either instead of a radial, or in addition to one and get satisfactory performance. If I use an elevated counterpoise…then I clip the 8 ft wire onto the end of my 17 ft counterpoise for better matching on 40 and possibly 30 meters. I see no reason to just use a 8 ft counterpoise or radial wire for 20, a 16 or 17 wire should be better on all the bands. Occasionally I lay down two 17 ft radial wires on the ground if I have them and there is room. Some of my attempts at modeling showed slightly improved performance. If I have a preferred direction I often lay them down in roughly that quadrant. The theory is it may slightly help in that direction, but more important it may eliminate a very slight null opposite to the desired direction. This is my unproved theory only since it would be nearly impossible to measure something like a dB or so. This is usually the only antenna I carry for backpacking, or travel around the US or Europe. Something like a linked dipole (usually set up as an inverted V) will often perform significantly better, however I much prefer something like the 26 ft wire….5 minutes to set up and lots of time to operate vs. an hour set up and less operating time. Rick KL7CW Palmer, Alaska Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Random wire length
My KX-1 with a 25 ft antenna and one or two 17 ft counterpoises laying on the ground nearly always loads easily on 40, 30, and 20 meters. The KX-1 has a rather limited range antenna tuner. So I would not think your 58 ft antenna wire should not present much of a problem on 80. However this is for my counterpoise wire(s) laying directly on the ground. However if my 17 ft counterpoise is elevated, or is above ground for say the first 5 or more feet, sometimes will not match on 40 meters until I lengthen the counterpoise to at least something like about 25 ft, or better yet a full 1/4th wavelength which is about 34 ft on 40 meters. So if your counterpoise wire(s) are partly or mostly above ground, a counterpoise closer to 67 ft will probably improve your match and performance. I would think even a 40 or 50 foot counterpoise wire laying on the ground would work. I had some luck with a 51 ft counterpoise laying on the ground on 80 meters….but only limited experience on that band. Sometimes I have had good luck on 40, 30, and 20 meters just clipping onto a metal picnic table, chain link fence, guardrail, etc. for my counterpoise but sometimes adding a counterpoise wire also. So an additional ground wire clipped onto a metal object, even a car body, often helps, but occasionally clipping onto something seems to degrade reception….just give it a try. Sometimes I needed to lay my counterpoise wires under picnic tables, tents, the car, etc with lots of zigzags. Usually it worked just fine….but not sure about 80 meters. Rick KL7CW Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft Beam antenna ideas
Terry, Please consider all ideas for your situation. The Hex beam and other suggestions are all viable ideas. If you have RFI from neighbors even a rotary dipole may be of some help in nulling out an RFI source. Another idea to at least consider is one of the STEPPIR beams. I have their 3 element 20-6 meter Yagi. They also have a 2 element version with even a smaller footprint. Also they have even smaller footprint antennas with trombone elements. If you go this route, you would get good use on 17 and 20 meters now, and when the solar conditions improve in a few years you would be all set for 15, 12, 10, and 6 meters. The STEPPIR antennas are rather expensive and some folks have had problems with them, or just do not want to deal with potential mechanical problems. My Yagi has survived 13 windy Alaska winters. There are user groups for most antenna manufacturers ….so probably best to investigate the pros and cons in their Yahoo, or whatever groups, not in this Elecraft list. Rick KL7CW Palmer, Alaska K3S, KX1, etc. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] -SSB net and KX3
Just a quick note today I had an extremely difficult time getting heard on the Elecraft SSB net on 20 meters with my vertical this morning. I decided to pull down the vertical. I decided to tape my Elecraft BL2 Balun to the Jackite pole and try a dipole. The BL2 and wire inverted V dipole were up about 35 feet. (10 foot elevated porch and 25 feet Jackite pole) My thought was the KX3 and KXPA tuner would deal with any tuning. Seemed like all bands tuned just fine. My thoughts were, will it radiate and to what extent. Then on 17M and I was hearing JA7WND calling CQ, SSB. I answered and he heard me and gave me a 5x7 and then 5x8, with a "nice audio!." That surprised me as 20M was very difficult and you'd think 17M would be worse. But that was not the biggest surprise. Later in the evening I heard UA3ZDC calling CQ, SSB on 20 meters. I responded and again he answered. Again he gave me a good signal. That was like over 5,500 miles from my QTH!!! He must have an incredible antenna and shack to hear me. I'm very impressed with the Elecraft equipment! All of it, even the balun kit. Well I did not make the Elecraft SSB net this time, but it was sure cool to make some DX contacts by not giving up and trying something different. Much Regards Dwight WM5F __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] k3s AM receive
I am going to order a K3S and have my filter selection figured out OK for CW and SSB. However I want to do a little BCB and SWL listening on AM. At this time no plans to transmit AM. I live in rural Alaska and there are no strong BCB or SW broadcast stations close to my QTH. Is there any reason to equip my my K3S with either the 6 kHz or FM filter roofing filters for AM reception or will the DSP filter do the job. I realize that if I want to tx AM I will need to install the 6kHz filter. My interests are 99% CW and my cw filters will include the 700Hz filter which I have already obtained. Thanks, Rick KL7CW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] New release of Win4K3Suite...set your clocks!;
Hello Tom; I had a great time using the KX3 with the Win4k3 during the CQ RTTY contest this weekend. The N1MM software linked up to the Win4K3 and KX3 pretty easily using the Com0Com. Much Regards, Dwight wm5f Thanks for all your support. 73 Tom --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. http://www.avast.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to dwightander...@roadrunner.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Running the KX3 and KXPA100 Off Battery (Phil Hystad)
Phil, Operating portable with a KX-3 and KXPA-100 running 50W I typically observe 6-8 hours of useful life per charge using this jumpstarter battery: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBINF7G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8psc=1 They advertise that this is 18AH, but they do not advertise the low-voltage point of their measurement, so take that for what it is worth when you make your comparison. -DwightKF5WOE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft compatible WX station
I,ve had a Pest Bros. For a nr of years. Never any problems, even with my Alpha. Never put the wind vane up! On Mar 1, 2014 1:25 PM, Mike KS7D k...@verizon.net wrote: I would like to get a good wireless weather station that would be compatible with amateur radio use - no interference to Elecraft K2, K3 or KX3 radios. I would very much appreciate the thoughts of those on this list who have experience with wireless WX stations for home use. My previous WX station, La Cross Technology WS-2010 has died. It worked fine, but didn't last long. I want a better quality WX station this time. I apologize for the bandwidth for an issue that is only an indirect Elecraft radio issue. Please respond off-list if you prefer. Mike, ks7d Sent from my iPhone www.ks7d.com @ks7d __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Elecraft Noise RFI
Phil, I would suggest that you eliminate sources within your home as noise sources before you search elsewhere. There are hundreds of potential noise sources in homes. Just a few examples would be: CFL and LED lights, low voltage lighting systems, electric blankets, air conditioner and heating systems and fans, electronic igniters in stoves, ovens, and boilers, most power supplies, plasma TV's, internet routers, doorbell transformers starting to go bad, battery chargers. You get the idea..nearly anything electronic, even devices that are turned off. So it would probably be easiest to turn off circuit breakers one at a time, or perhaps just turn off the main breaker and run a radio on battery power. I am sure others will offer many suggestions also. If your house is OK, you might drive around the neighborhood with your AM BC band radio tuned to a blank spot near the top of the dial and possibly you will get a real general idea of the extent of the problem. However at low frequencies like the BC band, noise/rfi can be propagated long distances (like 1000's of yards) over power lines, so the use of a directional antenna on something like an AM aircraft band portable, or possibly even a 6 or 2 meter AM, CW, or SSB receiver would be much better for localizing the noise. There has been much written on the internet and ham publications on locating and fixing noise. Good Luck, Rick KL7CW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] 270V ERR KPA500
Mine did too ... Elecraft is sending me a new one, was under warranty! Kudos to Elecraft! 73 Dwight NS9I On Feb 12, 2014 5:29 PM, bill conkling n...@widomaker.com wrote: Measure the voltage at end of wire thru Z bracket while not connected to the amp module. And also connected. Should be 270 V. Mine was 12 V when connected. ...bill nr4c *Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID* DGB ns9i2...@bayland.net wrote: The interlock switch and hardware checks out good. I've had this amp for a couple of years. Removing the p.s. now to check it out as Bill mentioned. thanks 73 Dwight NS9I On 2/12/2014 11:44 AM, Brian Alsop wrote: Or the interlock hardware is installed wrong. 73 de Brian/K3KO On 2/12/2014 17:28, bill conkling wrote: Mine did this right from the start. Trace the 270 volt wire from PS go amp module, thru the Z bracket. Somewhere the 270 is going low. Mine had a bad cap on the circuit board near the 270 V connector. ... bill nr4c Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID DGB ns9i2...@bayland.net wrote: I'm getting this error from my amp when I turn it on and set it in the OPER mode. Then it requires shutoff via the rear switch to shut it off. I've been running it off 120v and has been working fine. What do I need to look for? 73 Dwight NS9I __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3697/6586 - Release Date: 02/12/14 - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3697/6586 - Release Date: 02/12/14 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 lower power only on 40?
Dan, If you tested your KX1 into a good 50 ohm dummy load, the indicated power should have been within 10 or 20% of the correct power either with the KX1 in Cal, or in Tune if you do an ATU tune. If you tested it into a resonant 50 ohm antenna, then the reading should also be correct on that band. If you test it into a random wire and counterpoise, then the power reading will only be approximately correct if the ATU can tune it to something like 1.5:1 on bands you measure. If the ATU can only tune it to say an SWR of 2:1 or 3:1 or higher, then the power reading may be way offpossibly by more than 50 %. The ATU has a very limited tuning range on 80 meters, so a resonant antenna or only very specific lengths of wire and counterpoises can be tuned. However certain lengths of wires can usually be tuned on 40, 30, and 20 meters. For example a 26 ft wire antenna with a 17 ft counterpoise laying on the ground will usually tune to well below 2:1 (typically 1.5:1) on 40, 30, and 20 meters. I always try and only use antennas which the ATU can tune to 2:1 SWR, although at times I have pushed this to 3:1 without problems after about 10 years and thousands of QSO's. My suggestion is to buy or build a 50 ohm dummy load as your first piece of test equipment. Good Luck Rick KL7CW -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX1-lower-power-only-on-40-tp7579123p7579125.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] kx1 20 meter oscillation
Stan, Before you conclude you have an oscillation on 20 meters, please make sure you are actually correctly sampling the actual output of the kx1 from the BNC antenna jack and not picking up stray signals radiated from the interior of the kx1, especially if its cover is removed. Sometimes the kx1 waveform as viewed on a oscilloscope or spectrum analyzer looks much better if correctly sampled. Put the cover on the kx1 and ground the case. Run it into a dummy load through a coax cable and a T connector. One way to sample the actual signal is to put a piece of insulated wire into the t connector (no direct electrical connection) and run this short wire and a ground to a variable or fixed pad and adjust the coupling and pad to provide a reasonable signal into your monitor receiver (say something less than about S9 + 20 db. I have also coupled a small signal to an outdoor antenna through a T connector, insulated wire dummy load, then hooked my receiver to another outdoor coax fed antenna.even if it is not a 20 meter antenna, possibly through a pad and/or receiver attenuator, and have had a good (reasonable level) signal to monitor. There are also RF sample circuits and special pads (possibly around 100dB ?) which provide the attenuation to safely and correctly sample the transmitter RF, which are probably not necessary unless you want to set up an actual means of measuring levels. Please be very careful not to couple too much signal into your K3. Probably you will need only a small amount of capacitive coupling into the T connector and can use a considerable amount of padding (try 20 to 40dB or more). Signal levels into a receiver of +10 dBm could potentially damage a receiver. Rick KL7CW KX1 # 798Palmer Alaska __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] kx1 antenna
From: Rick Carolyn Dwight [mailto:kl...@mtaonline.net] Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2012 10:32 AM To: 'elecraft@mailman.qth.net' Subject: kx1 antenna Mike, I have used a kx1 portable for many years in many locations with approximately a 25 ft wire, more or less vertical and one or two counterpoise wires approximately 17 ft. If the counterpoise wire(s) are laying directly on the ground nearly 100% of the time the rig tunes 2:1 on 40 meters and typically lower on 20 and 30 meters. If the counterpoise wires are elevated (even laying on bushes) the rig may not tune on 40 meters. It is usually OK if you sit at a table and drape the counterpoise wires down to the ground. I have found it very useful to always carry approximately a 6 or 8 foot wire with a medium size car battery charger clip on one end. Often clipping onto a metal picnic table, guard rail, car body, chain link fence, or whatever is all I need for a workable ground/counterpoise. Or in your example, just try lengthening one of the radials with the clipped on wire, or for 40 meters only try lengthening the 24 ft radiator with the clip lead. There is a good chance that the rig will then tune on 40 meters. It is possible but not likely that something is wrong with the antenna tuner, you can step through the L and C combinations manually as outlined in the manual. The 25 ft wire and 17 ft counterpoise/radial is not proposed as a high performance antenna, but as a very workable, light weight antenna which is easy to set up and will yield many happy QSO's ..some well over a thousand miles on all 3 bands. This is my usual travel and backpacking antenna, however, if I am operating in a contest and can set up a more elaborate antenna, it may be worth the effort. It is probable that this very simple antenna counterpoise combo will actually work better than many of the compact, expensive, cute, loaded antennas that you see advertised). For 40 meters a longer radiator(closer to 33 ft) and a more extensive counterpoise or radial system will perform better, but radiators much longer than approximately 26 or 27 feet will not tune on 20 meters. If your radials are laying on the ground, a larger number of radials are more important than radials longer than about 17 ft. If your counterpoise is elevated above ground, for example on a deck, one or two resonant (quarter wave) radials will be probably be better, although I have found rather unlikely combinations that actually worked just fine. Rick KL7CW KX1 # 798 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] I need a photograph of KX1 main circuit board
I have been doing some circuit mods to my KX1 and need a photograph of both sides of the main circuit board BEFORE the parts are mounted. I would appreciate it if someone would e mail me pictures or refer me to a link. Usually I document my work before I cut circuit traces, etc, but not this time. Thanks for your help and I promise to share any useful mods with the Elecraft KX1 community. Rick KL7CW kl...@mtaonline.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Thanks for KX1 circuit board photo
Thank you Don for the link to the KX1 circuit board photo. I just downloaded it ! Rick KX1 # 798 KL7CW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 display for contesters
Dick, you are on target about the TenTec reflector. The same thing is going on at the FT-2000 reflector now. It seems every item warrants a flame from someone who does not agree. The Elecraft reflector is very tame compared to the FT-2000. Eric and Wayne are to be credited for not only bringing forth a super product but their willingness to address any and all issues. So my hat is to all at Elecraft for being a class act. Dwight W4IJY K2 #4766 (ain't done yet) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Egg Crates
Try using empty prescription bottles. The caps prevent accidentally spills. Put labels on the bottles with the part number and nomenclature. Works for me. Dwight W4IJY K2 4766 not done ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 : Sensitivity
Question from today at local hamfest: On the webpage: Is it possible to phase lock the two K3 receivers? They run off the same reference oscillator and are phase locked. Do you loose sensitivity on either receiver doing this way? Not sure I understood his question, but is volume level effected? Dwight Agnew - AI4II 9335 King George Dr. Manassas, VA U.S.A. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 - Rack Mount?
Wonder if there is demand enough for rack mount kit for the K3 and future accessories? Dwight Agnew - AI4II 9335 King George Dr. Manassas, VA U.S.A. W4OVH arc WW4BR arc NoVaQRP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 - KPA3 Duty Cycle Question
Does the KPA3 have plenty of power to allow for 100W full duty cycle operation in all modes? Dwight Agnew - AI4II 9335 King George Dr. Manassas, VA U.S.A. WW4BR arc NoVaQRP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 Cold Weather Operation
ED, I understand that you have had trouble operating your KX1 in cold temperature. I just wanted to let you know that I have operated my KX1 in much colder temperatures that + 20 degrees F. Last night I left my KX1 out all night and it was below zero degrees F. This morning by the time I went outside to see how it would work in the cold it had already warmed up to + 5 degrees F. I used internal Lithium cells which were partially run down. Even with these run down and very cold cells my KX1 still seemed to operate normally and put out approximately 1 watt on all 4 bands. I switched to the menu position which measures the battery voltage. I read 8 volts key up and approximately 7 volts in the tune position. I think with fresher cells, or with 6 warm lithium cells in an inside shirt pocket I would l have at least 1.5 watts output on all bands. I have operated the KX1 in the past in cold temperatures, but do not remember exactly how cold it was. I will do a test when we have some winter weather and see how things work at 30 or 40 degrees below zero F and post the results. When possible I always try and keep battery packs in an inside shirt pocket for all electronics equipment, especially if it is well below freezing. Lithium cells hold up better than many other types of cells, but even they lose much of their capacity in cold temperatures. One possibility is that when you went to the tune position the voltage sagged below what is required for proper KX1 operation. In a warmer temperature the same cells may have still worked. Try new Lithium cells, or a warm external battery pack. If the problem is not battery related, try operating the KX1 in cold temperatures without the back cover and tap or push on various parts of the board, or parts. Often problems are thermally related and may only show up in cold or hot conditions. A solder connection or circuit board trace are real possibilities. Less likely (at +20 degrees F) would be a component which does not operate in the cold. Often oscillators will not start and other problems occur in new designs in extreme cold temperatures, however the KX1 is a well proven design in temperatures below where you had difficulty, so this would NOT be my first area of investigation. You might be able to find the sensitive area on your board by spraying some of the COLD spray available from Radio Shack and other places on sepecific parts of the board, and or components. The Cold spray might be especially helpful after you get the problem isolated to a specific area of the board, or a few suspicious components. Possibly you will need to remove the KX1 completely from its case and carefully distort or bend the board when it is cold to trry and localize the problem. Good luck in finding the problem, and be sure to post your findings on the reflector. Rick Dwight KL7CW KX1 # 798 Palmer, Alaska ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Price increase
Listen up! Where can you get a deal like the K2? Wayne and Eric have to make a living too and the increase should have been more considering the time period in which general price increases have foisted on us. Consider the quality and performance and measure the K2 against what else is out there. Sure, it will affect the fixed income (I am one of those) as all the other price increases we have seen since 1996. K2 is still a bargain. I purchase another in the future if and when I finish 4766. Dwight W4IJY K2 4766 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Alignment Test II
Don, thanks for the help, at least I think we are getting close to solving this mystery to me. I can converse with you on tubes, but this solid state stuff is new to me. Shows you how old I is. Pin 1 of U1 has 6 volts present and will not go to zero as you suggested. Pin 3 of U1 reads zero. As you indicated that is my problem. Following the steps in the manual and your advice I was able to get the high reading of 12101.18 and the low 12091.42. The following voltages are: U6, Pin 1 high 7.64v and low 11.4 microvolts (?); U6 Pin 3 high 4.06v and low 11.4 microvolts. I measured Pin 20 of U6 to be 6 volts. I lifted R19 and the readings were 4.08 before and 7.64 afterwards. I removed the thermistor board and checked the resistors and found no errors. I examined the board around the thermistor and found no solder bridges as you suggested I might have. Anyway, I think you are about to resolve my issues to which I appreciate. Dwight W4IJY K2 #4766 -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 10:32 PM To: C Dwight Baker Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Alignment Test II Dwight, The real problem is that U1 pin 1 is not going to zero. Now take a tiny step to try to discover the cause - do the same test of the PLL range (you can ignore the frequencies for this), but check the voltage at U6 pin 3 when the BAND+ button is tapped and also when the BAND- button is tapped. We want to see the voltage at pin 3 go from about 4 volts to about zero volts. If you do get the 0 to 4 volt swing at pin 3, then the firmware and DAC are doing the job properly, you will find the problem on the thermistor board, and the most likely is a solder bridge between pins 5 and 6 - the pads get quite close to each other there and a solder bridge is easy to create. The 0 to 4 volt swing at U6 pin 3 should make the voltage at U6 pin 1 swing from 0 to 8 volts if the resistors in the op amp circuit (mainly the thermistor board) are correct. If you need to convince yourself that the pin 1 output is not being loaded down, just lift one end of R19 and repeat the test. U6 should have twice as much voltage on pin 1 as is put onto pin 3 when all is well with the resistor network. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of C Dwight Baker Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 8:52 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Alignment Test II Don, I followed your suggestions and I am still at the same place I started. I began by following the schematic as you suggested and marked each component as I verified the correct values and type. I found no errors (at least I didn't but it doesn't mean I erred again). It appears I had a solder bridge between pins 4 and 5 on U6. I replaced D16 veractor MV209 and did not have another D17 ISV149 so the old one is still there. The readings remained virtually the same as before. The voltages at U6 pin 1 were as follows: High 12103.15, voltage 7.61; low 1209.03, voltage 3.74. Pin 8 of the thermistor board was 7.97 and pins 6 and 7 measured 3.96. Pin 1 measured 7.64. The line voltage at the power plug was 14.3 volts. I am curious why the voltage on the lower reading did not go to near zero. Would Q19 (J310), D17 be faulty and what effect does U4 have? I appreciate your time for leading this BOOF (burnt out old f-rt) through the dark. Thanks again, Dwight W4IJY K2 4766 -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 9:17 AM To: C Dwight Baker; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Alignment Test II Dwight, Don't be concerned about the setting of C22 until after you have finished the entire build - just set it to mid-position for now. You will want to re-do CAL PLL and CAL FIL after you are done with the 4 MHz oscillator set precisely to achieve good dial calibration. The K2 does not use the 4 MHz oscillator on a real time basis, only during CAL PLL and CAL FIL operations. Now in to your problem. Yes, your PLL high and low frequencies are too high and the range is too small. Turn your manual to the back and find the schematic for the RF Board - sheet 1. Then find the area in the left upper corner marked PLL Reference Oscillator. Check all the components associated with that circuit, especially the capacitors, varactors, and inductor L31 for proper values and make certain they are in the correct holes. Re-verify that D16 and D17 are correct - D16 is the larger bodied varactor and D17 is the smaller. After verifying the components above, go back to CAL FCTR with the probe in TP3, tap the BAND+ button and read the high frequency, then measure the voltage at U6 pin 1 (it should be near 8 volts). Then tap the BAND- button and read the low frequency and measure the voltage at U6 pin 1 (now should be near zero volts). Did you obtain a correct
RE: [Elecraft] Alignment Test II
Don, I followed your suggestions and I am still at the same place I started. I began by following the schematic as you suggested and marked each component as I verified the correct values and type. I found no errors (at least I didn't but it doesn't mean I erred again). It appears I had a solder bridge between pins 4 and 5 on U6. I replaced D16 veractor MV209 and did not have another D17 ISV149 so the old one is still there. The readings remained virtually the same as before. The voltages at U6 pin 1 were as follows: High 12103.15, voltage 7.61; low 1209.03, voltage 3.74. Pin 8 of the thermistor board was 7.97 and pins 6 and 7 measured 3.96. Pin 1 measured 7.64. The line voltage at the power plug was 14.3 volts. I am curious why the voltage on the lower reading did not go to near zero. Would Q19 (J310), D17 be faulty and what effect does U4 have? I appreciate your time for leading this BOOF (burnt out old f-rt) through the dark. Thanks again, Dwight W4IJY K2 4766 -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 9:17 AM To: C Dwight Baker; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Alignment Test II Dwight, Don't be concerned about the setting of C22 until after you have finished the entire build - just set it to mid-position for now. You will want to re-do CAL PLL and CAL FIL after you are done with the 4 MHz oscillator set precisely to achieve good dial calibration. The K2 does not use the 4 MHz oscillator on a real time basis, only during CAL PLL and CAL FIL operations. Now in to your problem. Yes, your PLL high and low frequencies are too high and the range is too small. Turn your manual to the back and find the schematic for the RF Board - sheet 1. Then find the area in the left upper corner marked PLL Reference Oscillator. Check all the components associated with that circuit, especially the capacitors, varactors, and inductor L31 for proper values and make certain they are in the correct holes. Re-verify that D16 and D17 are correct - D16 is the larger bodied varactor and D17 is the smaller. After verifying the components above, go back to CAL FCTR with the probe in TP3, tap the BAND+ button and read the high frequency, then measure the voltage at U6 pin 1 (it should be near 8 volts). Then tap the BAND- button and read the low frequency and measure the voltage at U6 pin 1 (now should be near zero volts). Did you obtain a correct frequency range? Did the voltage at U1 pin 1 change from 8 volts to 0 volts? Let us know what you find. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- When I did the PLL reference oscillator range test and at 4 MHz; the readings are 12104.45 on the high end and 12099.20 at the low end for a difference of 5.25 whereas the manual indicates the range should be somewhere between 9.8 and 15 kHz. Adjusting C22 on the control board gives me a difference of 5.5 kHz. Where or what am I looking for or better yet have I goofed in populating the board? Phase I testing was good. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Alignment Test II
I am back on s/n 4766 after health issues and traveling. I am at the Alignment and Test II phase. I have the kit frequency counter plugged into P6 and TP1. I go to Cal FCTR for the 4 MHz Oscillator calibration and getting 12104.49 kHz and confirmed with another frequency counter and seem to be within tolerance as shown in the manual. When I did the PLL reference oscillator range test and at 4 MHz; the readings are 12104.45 on the high end and 12099.20 at the low end for a difference of 5.25 whereas the manual indicates the range should be somewhere between 9.8 and 15 kHz. Adjusting C22 on the control board gives me a difference of 5.5 kHz. Where or what am I looking for or better yet have I goofed in populating the board? Phase I testing was good. I have checked each and every component installed and looked for unsoldered joints, reheated almost all the joints and checked for solder bridges. During assembly I soldered each component as I installed it. HELPPP! Dwight W4IJY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Recent Band Conditions
I live in Alaska at approximately 62 degrees north latitude where conditions average much worse than in the lower 48 states . Nearly 100% of my operation in the last 2 years has been with my KX1. The bands are not always open, but more often than not when I go down to the shack I am successful. During the WPX contest in May conditions were good for this part of the sunspot cycle. I was able to work 302 QSO's in 41 countries, including many Europeans with my KX1 and 3 el yagi at 60 ft and dipoles for 40 and 80 meters. During field day I hiked up a local mountain, erected an inverted vee and had many QSO's, but needed to really work for them since QRP conditions from Alaska were only fair. I travel often with my KX1 and usually just use it with my 26 ft wire in a tree. From the midwest I often work the whole US and Canada and if conditions are unusually good very occasionally have even worked Europe and other DX with my wire. From northern Norway (68 degrees N.) and England I work all over Europe with my KX1 on internal batteries (1.5 watts). So just try the bands every day. Even in Alaska it is unusual to find the bands all dead for days on end. Over the last 2 years I have probably been 80 % successful in checking into the Elecraft net on 20 and perhaps 70 % successful on 40 meters(1800 miles). A good antenna, like a yagi at 60 feet, is BIG help, however as you have read on the reflector, even folks with modest antennas can and do work DX with QRP. PS...I am not trying to brag about my accomplishments, but am just trying to encourage folks to enjoy the next few years, and things WILL GET BETTER. Rick KL7CW Palmer, Alaska KX1 # 798 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1EL's WK-USB keyer supports Ultimatic mode
I just built the new WK-USB keyer from K1EL. It can be use with a computer USB port, or in stand alone mode. It operates in Iambic A, B, Bug, or Ultimatic modes. I have not tried Ultimatic keying for 10 years, but was able to send OK with it after a few minutes of practice. I would think that either the Ultimatic mode with dual paddles or a single lever paddle with an iambic keyer would be equally easy to master. Now that I have learned iambic keying, I will stick with that mode myself. Hope this gives another option to anyone who finds iambic keying frustrating. Rick KL7CW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Iambic Keying
Bill, Congratulations on getting back into CW. I got into ham radio in the 50's and used hand keys and bugs for 30 years. I even operated comercially as both a shore and shipboard radio op. Although CW was my thing, the switch to iambic keying was not easy for me. Finally after many years iambic keying now seems natural to me. I was just too stuborn to give up and switch to a single lever paddle which would have been easy and natural. The suggestion just posted to switch to a single lever paddle is especially appropriate to someone who finds iambic keying difficult. If I could do it all over, I think I would have just gone to a single lever paddle. I have suggested the single lever paddle before to older folks getting back into CW. If you decide to tackle iambic keying, read the many postings on this and other sites and determine if A or B is for you and then STICK TO IT. I had trouble keying my new KX1 for weeks, until I discovered that it was set to A, not the B mode I had been using for 20 years with other rigs. I think new and especially younger hams should attempt to master iambic keying. However if it does not come together then just relax and use your single lever paddle. You asked about how to learn Iambic keying. Perhaps you could search the internet for a method, although I suspect that most of us just experiment and practice for many hours (off the air). One other thoughtin the last few years many more bugs have been heard on the air. In the old days often we could recognize who was sending even before they sent their call. Today this is not possible. Rick KL7CW 99% CW since 1954 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 hi current on 80 and power mod.
Hello BART, RE: High current on 80. I had a similar problem when I built my KX1. Do a search on KL7CW and see my post of April 19th on the Elecraft site. IMPORTANT...while troubleshooting with kx1 out of case..use a low voltage (7 volts ?) and short transmission times. RE: Power modification. Do the mod after you find the 80 meter problem. I was very happy for over a year with only just over 1 watt output. However when you operate under marginal conditions and/or with compromise antennas you want all the power you can generate. You can always turn down the power if you really want a 1 watt transceiver. 6 internal Lithium cells have a very long life, even with the power modification. I have not tracked the life, but suspect it is at LEAST 20 or 30 hours of operation, possibly much more if you listen most of the time like I do. I operated the Field Day contest and needed all the signal I could get. Hiking for an hour up a mountain probably gained me a few db. Hauling a 1.5 Kg 9 meter mast up the mountain probably gained me another few db. When I got to the site and found out that conditions in Alaska were only fair I changed out my well used Lithium cells to a fresh pair and gained perhaps another db. Also I carried RG58 instead of RG174 which may have gained me another db or so. Any of these individual actions may not have made much difference, together they enabled me to actually squeeze some qso's out of my set up. Rick KL7CW Palmer, Akaska Kx1 # 798 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 field day in Alaska
Wayne, Once again my little KX1 on internal cells did a super job in a contest from Alaska. I knew conditions in Alaska would only be fair at best so I opted to hike to a nearby mountaintop and carry my new Jackite 31 ft mast and and RG58 fed dipole up the mountain with my 62 lb backpack. With better conditions my usual 26 ft wire from a poorer location would have worked fine. I used two of your dupe sheets back to back taped to a piece of cardboard. Past experience has taught me that my old body NEEDS a proper chair for long operation. The chair was a cheap but very comfortable sling type folding chair which broke half way through the contest ! I was quite comfortable operating WITHOUT a table. I attached the KX1 to the top portion of an 8 1/2 x 11 clipboard with two large heavy duty rubber bands, and simply used a folded ARRL logsheet slipped partially under the KX1 which held it on the clipboard. Nothing slipped and I was very comfortable holding the clipboard/kx1 on my lap. The dupe sheet rested on my backpack where I could see it or on my leg or with a corner tucked under the clipboard. I think this is even more comfortable than bending over a table. Since the chair was quite low slung I could even use it inside my backpacking tent, but move it outisde when it was warm and sunny. For scratch paper I used yellow stickynotes on portions of the log I was not writing on. If you write very small and orgnaize your scratchsheets one pad of stickynotes will last for several contests. Unless I am travelling very light I always carry my lightweight noise cancelling headphones. During the FD the wind on my tent made quite a noise which the headphones mostly cancelled. Even in quiet areas the noise cancelling phones just seemed to make the signals stand out very clean. I believe someone even makes some noise cancelling earbuds. Since I had the 31 ft mast I could erect my inveted vee on perhaps a 20 or 30 degree slope just below the top of the mountain which sloped toward the lower 48 states. Thus my vee at 31 ft acted as if it were perhaps 40 or 50 feet high. The Jackite mast is a medium duty mast, since I was in an exposed windy location I retracted the top section and had only a 29 ft mast. I must have been quite a sight to all the hikers with my big backpack with mast and lawnchair bungie corded on the back. However this is Alaska and everyone just said HI as they passed me on the way up and said something like.guess you are getting in shape for sheep hunting in the fall. It is not unusual to see old guys hiking up steep mountains with backpacks full of rocks who are getting ready for hunting season. Now I need a shorter lighter mast for vertical climbs of over a few thousand feet. The antenna was a 20 meter inverted vee with approximately another 16 feet of wire after each end insulator. The pole was bungie corded to the end of the tent and to change bands it was very easy to just telescope the mast part way, then hook up or disconnect the clip lead jumpers to change between 20 and 40 meters. For 80 meters I simply clipped on approximately another 33 feet to the ends of the vees. This setup performed very well on 40 meters and I am sure with better propagation it would have been a great performer on 20. On 80 it would probably be a good cloud warmer. No luck on long haul 80 meter qso's but seems to work fine for local qso's out to at least several hundred miles. Perhaps loading the feedline and vee against several counterpoise wires on 80 would make it a better DX antenna. Thanks again for a very fine product in the KX1 and your dupe sheet. Hope this might encourage readers to just get outside and operate. PS the KX1 operates just fine with a 26 ft wire and 17 ft counterpoise in most conditions Rick KL7CWPalmer, AlaskaKX1 # 798 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 on 80 meters from KL7CW
Hello Wayne, My KX1 works great here in Alaska. I do not hear much CW activity here in Alaska nowit is light 24 hours a day and our sunset is near midnight ! I suspect things will improve next fall. The FISTS magazine lists many slow and high speed CW nets over the entire CW band. I suspect that most of them will welcome visitors. I have checked into Oregon Section CW net several times and they have welcomed me with my 3 watt KX1 and even gave me good signal reports (over 1700 miles). I also occasionally check into the Alaska SSB nets with my KX1 and have always been welcomed. I will probably do this at least once a month to keep them on their toes if anyone should need to pass emergency CW to SSB traffic. Antenna is a inverted with apex up 45 feet. The internal tuner keeps the SWR below 2:1 through most of the CW and Phone band. Had a nice long QSO with a fellow in central California and he could not believe I was only running 3 wats !!! I have heard Montana and Colorado QRP stations recently, but suspect that they would have difficulty hearing me. We often have low QRN levels here in AK so even with QRO I can hear much better on 160 and 80 meters than folks can hear me. My KX1 and inverted vee put out a killer signal out to several hundred miles here in Alaska nearly every evening. Example S9 plus 20 db from a station 50 miles away. One more idealisten in the evenings from about 3700 to perhaps 3730On several occasions I have heard very slow speed QSO's mostly W7's and W6's. I have a requesthas anyone experimented with field antenna lengths for use on 80 meters. When I travel to Europe I always take my KX1 and now suspect that 80 meters may be a very good band. A full size antenna is out of the question and I would like to avoid an external antenna tuner if posible. If not, I will do some modeling with my computer program and try some tests in the field. If anyone on the West coast wants to start up an evening ECN net after QRN levels decrease in the fall I will be a regular check in. I would do it, but with our often poor propagation in Alaska, and with my other obligations, someone else would be a better choice. RickKL7CW Palmer, Alaska ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] high current with KXB3080
Bruce, When I built and installed my KXB3080 modification I had high current on 80 meters...over 900 ma with a 12 volt supply. However in my case I had high power on 80 meters...5 watts and around 4 watts on the other bands. To troubleshoot this problem, I operated the kx1 out of the case for short transmit periods with about an 8 volt supply. I had used a piece of insulation on the 2 close wires on the LPF board and verified that this was not my problem. However whenever I pried the LPF board slightly away from the main board (1mm??) the 80 meter current dropped to a normal value and power on all bands was OK. I never identified the problem, but apparently something was shorting with the LPF board snug against the main board. With the LPF board pried slightly away there is no problem. I do not think it is a cold solder joint since I can now tap the boards, wires, torroids, etc and nothing bad happens. Perhaps when installing the LPF board against the main board a piece of tape or other insulation between the boards would prevent a short. I now get between 3.0 watts and 4.1 watts on the 4 bands with my 13.7 volt supply (current about 600 ma) and about 1.5 watts with an 8.2 volt supply. I also did the L3 modification and the power resistor modifications. Possibly something is shorting on your LPF board.or even the L3 modification. For sure I would not test with full voltage, but with a fused power supply with something like 7 or 8 volts until you find the trouble. PS...I had fun with my 5 watts on 80 meters for a few days until my conservative nature kicked in and I fixed the problem. No spectrum analyzer here, so who knows what frequencie(s) my 5 watts was on !!! Rick KL7CW Palmer Alaska KX1 # 798 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KXB3080
Wayne, I just built installed and tested the KXB3080 modification in my KX1 and everything went very smoothly. I would like to congratulate you on this fine product. Thanks,RickKL7CW Palmer, Alaska ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 BFO Offset
Mike, Although I have never measured my KX1, I suspect your measurements are correct. I usually set my filter setting around 1.5 to 2 KHZ and use this setting to tune around, for most QSO's, and for all zero beating. If the going gets tough in a QSO I then turn on the RIT, use a sharper setting and use a lower pitch. If a person prefers to use a sharper filter setting for most operation, possibly a lower offset would be preferable, however the somewhat marginal opposite sideband rejection would probably be degraded further. I am considering adding an active audio filter possibly with a broad enough response curve to let both 400 and 600 Hz through. Also under consideration is a lowpass audio filter. In the past I have build single pole active filters which have improved the audio selectivity without any apparent detrimental effects to the audio quality. Hopefully I could squeeze in inside the AGC loop, however it might need to be external. Rick KL7CW KX1 # 798 Palmer, Alaska ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] N3FJP software for EQP contest
Thomas, I have the N3FJP software set up for EQP...like you said you will need to modify the summary. However there one other problem with the software. EQP will let you work a station a 2nd (or 3rd) time IF there is a change in his Elecraft rig. The software will not let you input a station a 2nd time on the same band and mode. My work around is for a 2nd QSO just put a period . after the call and the third time use 2 periods .. This seems to work. Possibly other symbols could be used instead. If this does not work with other software, possibly something like xxx at the end of a call could signify a 2nd contact, or record it as a 6 meter or 2 meter contact and fix the log later. KL7CW will be active on 20 and 40 with my KX1 for anyone needing Alaska. Have fun, Rick KL7CW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] folded dipole antenna
Joe, Sounds like you have a winner for an antenna. However the antenna you describe is NOT a folded dipole. It would be a folded dipole if you did not cut out the section of open wire line opposite your feedline connection. Without the section cut out your antenna would be resonant on 40 meters and would be a great performer on 40 meters, but I have no idea how it would work on other bands. Your antenna is a LINEAR LOADED DIPOLE which will be resonant around 5 or 6 MHZ. It should load well on 40 and 80 for sure since it will be resonant around 5 to 6 MHZ. The losses on linear loaded antennas can be very small, so on 80 meters I suspect it will perform nearly as well as a full size dipole, perhaps within a db or so. If you could reach the center of the dipole and jumper the cut out section, possibly, but not for sure, you might have slightly better performance on 40 meters operating in the folded dipole mode. You could set up a field strength meter with a horizontal antenna several hundred feet away and do comparison readings...the Z would be very different so you would need to re tune. Some limited space folks take your good idea one step further and make a 3 wire (or more) linear loaded antenna element. Your dipole might only be around 50 feet in length if made with 3 wires. However, there is no such thing as a free lunch. Shorter antennas have less gain. My personal rule of thumb is that a well designed antenna can be shortened up to APPROXIMATELY 50% with only minor loss of gain, but further shortening usually results in rapidly decreasing performance. Shorter antennas do suffer from greatly decreased bandwidth, however if you you use a tuner that should not be a significant factor. I know many ELECRAFTERS will take exception to my 50% rule of thumb, however non technical folks might find it a useful tool. At least be VERY suspicious of very short antennas that claim great results. Likewise antennas that are AT LEAST half size MIGHT come close in performance to a full size antenna. The 25 ft wire most of use on our KX1's with fantastic results is a short antenna on 40 meters, but still is very acceptable compromize since it is about 75% the size of a full lenght quarter wave antenna and also is an easy match for the tuner. I believe my 50% rule is OK for most simple antennas. A yagi would need to be much larger than 50% size for acceptable performance. I find it is very interesting to model antennas with an antenna modeling program. Many hams use either the EZNEC or Nittany Scientific NEC-Win Plus+ programs. Either of these NEC 2 core programs do a very acceptable job of modeling most, but not all, of the antennas hams typically use. ARRL offers an Antenna Modeling on line course, or you can buy the ARRL course textbook and work through it yourself. You do not need to be an engineer or scientist to use these courses, however you should have a good grasp of algebra and perhaps trig and AT LEAST 100 hours of time to complete the course. RickKL7CW Palmer, Alaska KX1 # 798 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Portable operation of KX1
Hello Ralph I also often operate portable with my KX1, often from Phoenix. Although I have had SOME LIMITED success operating from motels, homes, etc with various antennas, I want to give you another idea which WILL work and be lots of fun. I usually just borrow a lawn chair and possibly a scrap of wood for an operating table, then hike to the nearest park with my radio and 25 ft piece of wire and 17 ft radial. I throw the wire up in a tree and lay out one or 2 radials, then the fun begins. Rx noise is much lower than in a subdivission or motel and I have a much better signal than I would have from a building. In Phoenix there is usually a city park or some open space within a few blocks. On my last trip to Phoenix I did not even bother to set up my rig at my daughters house, but just walked to the park to operate. Many wonderful contacts on 20, 30, and 40 meters with this very simple set up. In fact I had so much fun operating all afternoon in 75 degree temperatures I just stayed on the air into the evening and practically froze as the temperature dropped into the 40's since I just had short sleeves and shorts ! This kind of simple set up from the wide open spaces all over the US and Europe has netted me many QSO's with my KX1 typically out to 1000 or 1500 miles, and very occasionally even some DX. When you do operate portable experiment with your ground. Sometimes all I do is clip onto a metal picnic table, guard rail, metal roof, or whatever is around. Often this is all I need and a radial does not help. In other situations clipping onto a building ground or other object just SUCKS THE SIGNALS AWAY...like an electronic BLACK HOLE !!! Then a radial should be installed. I usually try both systems on receive first. (adding a radial will probably never degrade your signal). IF you can erect a dipole or other antenna at a good height above most surrounding structures then it probably will outperform my park antenna. Often folks see me in a park and ask about ham radio and what I am doing. Usually I am in a cw qso, so talking to them while on the air is difficult. Before my next trip I am going to print up some small handouts which expain ham radio, qrp, cw etc. Have fun in Phoenix with your KX1. You should be able to get into the Elecraft net to both Kevin and Tom on 20 for sure and possibly also on 40 with a park set up. Rick, KL7CW KX1 # 798, Palmer, Alaska ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KXB3080
Wayne, Congratulations on your design of the KXB3080. I have been the very happy owner of my KX1 for approximately a year and a half. This new module will make it even better. I do have one thing on my wish list for future KX1's (or KX2's ?). A 4 digit display, although not necessary, would be a nice feature if it could be included without increasing the size of the rig. Possibly even slightly smaller digits would be an acceptable compromise, but please no LCD displays. Thanks again, Rick DwightKL7CW Palmer, Alaska a very happy Elecraft KX1 owner ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS K2 K1 PS
Yep selling the elecraft K2... K2 HF Transceiver #3183 with: 20W Internal Auto Tuner SSB Option Audio filter/Real Time Clock 160M / 2nd RX Antenna Option Internal 2.9AH Battery Kit AUX I/O RS-232 Interface Noise Blanker MD-2 Microphone K2/100 with 150W ATU Remote enclosure. Manuals, mic, cables etc. $1400.00 usd co/usa only Elecraft K1 #382 with: Four-Band 5W CW Transceiver 40-30-20-15 meters Internal Automatic Antenna Tuner Internal Battery Adapter Additional Two-Band Module 40-20 meters Noise Blanker $300.00 usd co/usa only Astron RS 35M $100.00 usd + shipping Make me an resonable offer, want to biuld a new radio, shipped UPS from 20109. -- From the desk of Dwight ai4ii ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS - K1
Hello, I have an Elecraft k1 #382. New tuning pot installed. Parts for 80 meters was to make a 40 - 80 board Spair output Elecraft K1 with manuals. K1-4 Four-Band 5W CW Transceiver 40-30-20-15 meters KAT1 K1 Internal Automatic Antenna Tuner KBT1 K1 Internal Battery Adapter KFL1-2 Additional Two-Band Module 40-20 meters KNB1 Noise Blanker $350.00 obo +shipping Dwight AI4II ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Favorite antenna for KX1
To Tom K4TJD, My FAVORITE antenna for my KX1 is a 25 ft piece of wire with one or more radials (17 ft or whatever is available) lying on the ground. This maximizes my on the air time. If you can get the top up 25 ft this is great, however even if you need to throw the wire over a lower limb or erect the antenna at say a 45 degree angle to the ground you should still have many great qso's. I have often operated QRP over the last 50 years while backpacking, on canoe and bicycle trips, in campgrounds, and city parks. Before the KX1 I mostly used inverted vees. They worked great, but set up is either difficult or time consuming in most cases. Often I would not even bother pulling the rig out of the backpack...who wants to spend an hour erecting an antenna for 30 minutes of on the air time ???. Now I spend less than 10 minutes on the set up and can operate all 3 bands with SATISFACTORY results. I just got back from a 3 month trip through the US and Europe. I carried along a 20 meter dipole fed with 1/2 electrical wavelength of 300 ohm twinlead feedline, similar to the antenna recommended by K9EW. I am positive that the dipole would have outperformed the wire, especially if the apex were above APPROXIMATELY 20 to 25 feet. However I never uncoiled the dipole, but instead chose to MAXIMIZE my operating time and was able to enjoy dozens of QSO's on all three bands, some over 2000 miles. If you are going to operate for an extended period of time, for example in a contest, then it is probably well worth the time and effort to erect a conventional antenna, but for casual operating, GIVE ME THE 25 ft piece of wire. One more thought, a 40 or 80 meter dipole erected even at very low heights (less than 15 feet) can be a very effective antenna for close in contacts out to several hundred miles. Please look up feedline losses and be prepared to accept additional losses from small feedlines such as RG 174 coax on 20 meters or above. If you are only going to walk short distance it is probably worth carrying the extra weight of a lower loss feedline. Dipoles or inverted vees fed with 1/2 electrical wavelength of 300 feedline are probably the most underutilized antenna in ham radio. The impedance at the rig end of the line will be approximately 50 ohm balanced. Your rig will probably not care that the line is balanced, however you could use a 50 ohm to 50 ohm balun at the rig end of the feedline. The 300 ohm feedline will have lower loss and weight than coax. Do not coil up the 300 ohm feedline or lay it on the ground or other conductive surface. Rick, KL7CW,Palmer, Alaska ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] kx1 more antenna thoughts
To Tom, K4TJD I just had a few additional thoughts to add to my previous post. If you feed a 20 meter inverted vee with an ELECTRICAL half wavelength of 300 ohm TV twinlead the Z at the rig end of the line will be very approximately 50 ohms balanced. As I mentioned usually QRP operators can just hook this balanced line to the unbalanced output of the rig and usually get away with it. However if this idea bothers you, you could construct a simple coax choke and insert it between the twinlead and your rig. If you scramble wind 9 turns of RG-174 coax into a coil approximately 1 1/2 inches in diameter, it will have a reactance of approximately 500ohms on 14 MHZ and 200 ohms on 7MHZ. This coil will weigh much less than one ounce and give you many db of isolation even on 7 MHZ. You could use a 6 turn coil for 14 MHZ and have nearly 300 ohms of reactance with only about 1/2 oz of weight. With this choke at the rig end of the twinlead, it would also give you the option of adding a short additional length of RG-174 or RG-58 to reach your rig. If your inverted vee is far away you could use additional multiples of 1/2 wavelength of twinlead before the choke to reach your rig. These coax choke values are just some quick measurements I made tonight and are not proposed as best designs. Perhaps a different diameter or no of turns would be better. If you want a better choke or want to operate on 80 or 160 meters, possibly you would want to wind some coax on a ferrite core. I did not measure the loss in this choke, however since the length of coax is minimal I would assume the loss to be quite small. The above ideas (not designs) should work well at QRP levels. For higher power operation you may want a better choke (with more isolation) and coax which is able to handle more power than RG-174. Note if possible use an analyzer to cut the twinlead to an exact electrical 1/2 wavelength. Rick KL7CW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS: Elecraft K1
Group, Need to sell my Elecraft K1 Manuals and various spair part kits. K1-4 Four-Band 5W CW Transceiver 40-30-20-15 meters KAT1 K1 Internal Automatic Antenna Tuner KBT1 K1 Internal Battery Adapter KFL1-2 Additional Two-Band Module 40-20 meters (parts kit for 80 meter conversion) KNB1 Noise Blanker $360.00 plus actual shipping from 20109 -- From the desk of Dwight ai4ii ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 SS contest results
To Craig and other potential contest operators, Yes it is possible to do well with QRP in a mostly QRO contest such as the CW SS. Here are my results in yesterday's SS contest. I operated on 14 MHZ only with a frozen rotator and my 40 meter antenna was broken. I used my KX1 with an output power of 3 watts. My QTH is Palmer, Alaska and my closest contacts were 1500 miles away. I made 102 QSO's in 34 sections for 6936 points. I operated 11 hours. I believe a modestly equipped QRPstation in the lower 48 states could make WELL OVER 300 QSO's in a QRO contest such as the CW SS. Even from Alaska with with its strange propagation, I could sometimes make QSO's at a rate of over 15 per hour. This contest was lots of fun for me and was my first significant contest effort in 38 years. My CW contest skills were rusty and I lacked computer logging software. Next year I will check my antennas before the contest and make sure to clear my schedule of personal commitments during the contest ! I was very disappointed that I neither heard nor worked any QRP SS stations. You mentioned the large (EXCESS) number of stations calling CQ. I am convinced that this is a very positive thing for QRP operators. When propagation was reasonable, and I answered moderately or very strong CQ's I had an estimated success rate of over 50%. One reason for this is that I believe that I was the ONLY station answering most of these CQ's. Calling CQ almost always failed for meposibly a QRP station near a large population center might have SOME success calling CQ. Another big surprise (considering all the QRM) was that I was only rarely asked for repeats and only had a few incomplete QSO's. I hope to hear many of you Elecrafters and other QRP types in the next TEST Rick, KL7CW Palmer, Alaska ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Rework Eliminators Unmodules
I am building K2 #4766 slow and easy. I am putting all the Unmodules as I go. The Unmodules' instructions leave little chance for error and look very professional on the RF board. The quality of the boards, parts and instructions is outstanding!! I suggest all builders install the Unmodules because it will eliminate a lot additional work troubleshooting modules. I have no relationship with the Rework Eliminators Unmodules group and do not expect or want compensation. Thanks Ken and Gary for a fine product! Dwight W4IJY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] CW in Emergencies etc
Gentlemen: I am forced to sound off regarding all emails lamenting the prospect of CW not being required to pass the General and/or Extra Class exams; use of CW during emergencies and so. But beating a dead horse isn't going to accomplish much. So be innovative and come up with better systems of communications AND please take your gripes, sayings etc to some other site. It spoils the content of the Elecraft list which is good until everyone has to opine about CW etc. Too much time is wasted in looking for real Elecraft issues. 'Nuff Said' Dwight W4IJY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Apology
Gentlemen, I apologize for making the statement that the thread on CW be stopped. I am in violation of Rule 5 and my intent was only to suggest that I was interested in the technical subjects. Again accept my sincere apologies. 73, Dwight W4IJY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 4766
I have started 4766 and having a ball. I am a newcomer to Elecraft and old, old ham since 1959 and dumb enough to let my ticket expire in the 80s'. I have taken measurements as outlined in the assembly instructions and did not get a reading in accordance with the resistances shown in the instructions. Control Board: U8 pin 16 NO READING Front Panel: J1 Pins 4,5,6,7,9,10,11,12,13,14,19 NO READINGS RF Board: R1 and R2 NO READINGS Where am I going wrong? Is there a complete schematic showing all the components connected together like the old Heathkits?? 73s' Dwight formerly W4IJY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] amp keying question
So, having tried and not succeeded, does anyone have a circuit suggestion to tie in with the External PA Key jack on the kpa100? I need for it to key a 12 volt relay, so I can use it with my heathkit. Some how, Im missing it __ Dwight AI4II __ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] k2 and sb-200
So has anyone using the k2/100 to drive a heathkit sb-200 linear? If so can you give me some pointers on the interface to the amp? Still being new to the hobby would like some advice on the subject... __ Dwight AI4II __ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 160 and 80 meter KX-1
To: Paul W8KC RE: KX-1 operation on 160 and 80 meters I saw your post about wanting a 160/80 meter KX-1. At first glance it seems that a 2 band KX-1 with antenna tuner option could be modified as it is being built to operate on 80 and 160 meters. Since no 30 meter board would be installed there would probably be room for the few additional parts required. Briefly, the pin 19 output of U2 could be routed to a new NE-602 mixer with a 5.2 mhz oscillator crystal to reduce the pin 19 frequency by 5.2 MHZ. (The display would read 7.0 mhz when you are on 1.8 mhz). The output of the added mixer would feed both Q4 and U6. If a 10.5 mhz crystal is selected, the display would read 14.0 mhz when you are operating on 3.5 mhz. Please be sure to investigate spurious mixer products before ordering crystals, the above mixer scheme may not be the best. All capacitors and inductors in tuned circuits would need to be approximately 4 times the value used in the un-modified KX-1. Some bypass and coupling capacitors may need to be changed. Also stage gain might need re-adjustment. Since the KX-1 processor operates on 3.995 mhz, operation on the upper part, and possibly all of 75 meters may not be possible. Also urban folks may need to consider a highpass filter in the receive input to reduce strong AM broadcast stations. Probably the inductors and capacitors in the antenna tuner could be scaled up by a factor of 4 to let you operate with a 100 ft wire and a 64 ft counterpoise. You might use either a latching relay or the led lamp switch as a crystal bandswitch. These are just some un-tried ideasthey are NOT exact designs. This would be a fun project for someone with moderate design and building skills. I can GUARANTEE that your radio would not play when you first turn it on. You would need to do some engineering and experimentation to get it right. Rick Dwight KL7CW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS / TRADE K1 - 2
Hi, Looking to trade a loaded K1 for KX1 with tuner/30m K1-2 #382, 20/40 meter, KAT1,KNB1,KBT1 Unfinished KFL1-4 The K1 works fine as a 2 bander, the 4 band module has been giving me trouble, see list. K1 does have Mouser tuning pot in it. Sale price $390USD or trade for KX1 with tuner. __ Dwight N4GSD * Elecraft K1 K2/100 * Icom 703 __ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 / KFL1-4 / Question
Group, Did the normal search of the archives and elecraft website, without luck. Biulding a KFL1-4 and got to the Receiver Alignment section. My problem is with the 15 meter section. Can not hear a signal what so ever. The 40, 30 and 20 meters I can hear signals. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I seem to be missing it this weekend. Dwight N4GSD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 KNB1 Question
Group, Had a question about the opperation of the noise blanker in the k1. When turned on 'low' it almost sounds like an am radio station in the background noise. Do not notice this on 'high' or when the noise blanker is off. K1 #382 ,2 band, auto tuner Dwight N4GSD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] INFO : Builders Question : Used to be a near sighted ham
Group, Looking to buy assembled or have built a KPA100 KAT100-2 in an EC2 Having trouble seeing close up anymore. Give me some estimates please: dwight (at) agnew (dot) us __ | === Dwight N4GSD === _| ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
