Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] New from Elecraft: KPA1500 amplifier with built-in ATU, separate power supply

[Fred Townsend]

Hi Wayne:

I noticed you are using the big Power Poles for the DC HV. I also note the 
cable length is listed at 5.5’ and that longer cable lengths will be supported. 
I have found that high currents cables can be a PITA. I hope that you are using 
high flex welding cables, hopefully the kind with embedded control lines so 
that Kelvin sensing can be used for longer cable lengths. 

Are the fans temperature controlled liked KPA500?

I also have not seen the drive requirements listed. Have we gotten around the 
FCC 13db rule? 

Finally, you need to proof the FAQ one more time. You have ‘cable’ in place of 
‘cabinet’ in one place.

 

73

Fred, AE6QL

 

From: elecraft...@yahoogroups.com [mailto:elecraft...@yahoogroups.com] 
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2017 9:01 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Cc: elecraft...@yahoogroups.com; elecr...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Elecraft_K3] New from Elecraft: KPA1500 amplifier with built-in ATU, 
separate power supply

 

  

We’re pleased to announce our KPA1500 solid-state amplifier, covering 160 to 6 
meters. Max power output is 1500 Watts. Other important features include:

- Small RF deck fits on nearly any desktop (~4.5 x 13 x 11.5”, HWD); weighs 
only ~22 pounds
- Separate lightweight switching power supply weighs ~15 pounds (standard cable 
is 6 feet long)
- Styling matches our other K-Line products
- Built-in wide-range antenna tuner (ATU) with instant recall of 
per-band/per-segment settings
- Dual antenna jacks
- Rich I/O complement including Ethernet
- Interfaces to nearly any transceiver; fully integrated with K3 and K3S
- Extensive parametric monitoring ensures safe operation
- Silent PIN-diode T/R switching (no QSK relays)

Introductory price: $5995.

For photos and additional information, use the links below:

http://www.elecraft.com/KPA1500/KPA1500%20FAQ%20rev%20A1b.pdf

If you’d like to be notified when we begin taking orders, please contact 
Elecraft. Or add your name to the list at the Visalia DX convention this 
weekend. 

Required notification: "This device has not yet been authorized as required by 
FCC rules. It is not, and may not be
offered for sale, or lease, or sold or leased, until authorization is obtained."

73,
Wayne, N6KR
Eric, WA6HHQ

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[Elecraft] This will effect pilots and Hams throughout the Western US

[Fred Townsend]

This Is Likely Why The Navy Is Causing A Massive And Mysterious GPS Outage
In The Western US - The Drive

http://www.thedrive.com/the-war-zone/3865/this-is-likely-why-the-navy-is-cau
sing-a-massive-and-mysterious-gps-outage-in-the-western-us

Fred, AE6QL

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[Elecraft] Desoldering with ChipQuik OT

[Fred Townsend]

There has been much discussion of desoldering techniques. Many express their 
praise of various desoldering/soldering machines. However machines have many 
negatives starting with the need for a high degree of skill and expense. In 
short they are not practical for the once a year project builder. 
ChipQuik is a good tool for the occasional builder. It's cheap in the sense you 
don't have an expensive tool sitting on your shelf just drawing dust. Also in 
terms of temperature extremes it's easier on the de-soldered part. 
The big negative for many is ChipQuik is it is not intuitive (at first). Its 
use also needs companion tools such as a solder sucker or SolderWic(k), also 
inexpensive tools, and of course a soldering iron. As the saying goes one 
picture is worth a thousand words so see the video.

The YouTube link below is one of the better tutorials. (Forgive the VK accent) 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmD7F0--7Lc=False

If you want to buy the stuff let your fingers thumb through the Internet. You 
might be able to get a free sample. Disclaimer: I make no vendor endorsements 
nor do I have any fiduciary interests in the product.
73
Fred, AE6QL

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Re: [Elecraft] Battery requirements for NPOTA activation with KX3/KXPA100

[Fred Townsend]

Councilor: LOL if you are looking for precise information from imprecise data. 
Best I can do is a WAG.  If you take your ah rating say 36 and multiply by the 
battery voltage say 12, we have 432 watt hours. Divide by 2 to account for 
efficiency losses and we have 216 wH and finally divide by your transmit draw 
80 watts and we have  2.7 transmit hours. Does this help? Remember this is a 
WAG (Wild Assed Guess). 
73
Fred,  AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Esquer 
Dave
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2016 1:42 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Battery requirements for NPOTA activation with KX3/KXPA100

Hi folks,
I know this has been asked and discussed before but I can’t seem to get a 
handle on a clear-cut answer …

I am going to do a SSB NPOTA (National Parks on the Air) activation with my 
KX3/KXPA100/PX3 on battery power. It has been in the works for a while with a 
special use permit required by the NPS.

How much battery capacity do I need if I want to run full 100 watts? For 
planning purposes, I am assuming a 6 hour activation with a (highly optimistic 
I know) 60 QSOs per hour.

The PX3 will be powered by a separate LiFePo 4.8 aH battery, it will do just 
fine. My concern is the amount of draw I will need to last the 6 hours. With an 
inline (Hobby King) HK-010 Power Analyzer, I see a max current (KX3/KXPA100 
combo) of about 8 amps and about 80 watts during a QSO. The QSOs varies between 
50-80 watts on transmit.

I also know that once I am spotted, I can drop the power down to maybe 75-50 
watts to save some battery juice.

I have 2 12v-18aH SLA batteries at the ready, am I woefully underpowered? If 
you have any real-world experience or tips, it is most valuable and 
appreciated. You can contact me offline at dave dot esquer AT gmail as well.

Thanks,
Dave, K6WDE





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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Fred Townsend]

Brendon there is no doubt a rework station will make things easier. They do
not replace skill. In fact you can muck things up faster without skill. Also
they are dangerous. Be sure to keep them children as you would a gun.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Brendon Whateley
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 10:00 PM
Cc: Elecraft Reflector Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

Does a hot-air rework station make this all easier? I've long been toying
with getting one for SMD work.


- Brendon

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 8:21 PM, W Paul Mills  wrote:

> I used solder pooling 40 years ago to remove round 10 lead IC's from 
> the crowded Motorola HT-220's. Worked great with good technique. 
> Technique was to dribble it on, until touching all leads, then dip 
> iron in puddle, and quickly pull. Clean up was easy with a solder sucker.
>
> Chip-Quick is great, because it melts at a low temp. But be careful, 
> if not careful, it can go 'everywhere'! Been there, done that!
>
>
> On 02/20/2016 11:50 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
> > I really should update the Desoldering Primer to mention Chip-Quik. 
> > I've
> used it to remove 100-pin TQFPs with no damage to the parts or the PCB.
> It's really cool stuff.
> >
> > Wayne
> > N6KR
> >
> >
> > On Feb 20, 2016, at 9:36 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft <
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:
> >
> >> And as a last resort, cut the leads and then clean out the bad 
> >> parts
> and leads.  Even the best rework gal will not try to save a 
> multi-leaded part.  Too much risk of damage to the PCB.
> >>
> >> Mel, K6KBE
> >
> >
> >
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this 
> > email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to 
> > ac...@mills-usa.com
> >
>
>
> --
> /*
> * Amateur Radio Station AC0HY*
> * W. Paul Mills SN807*
> * Assistant EC Alpha-1 ARES Shawnee/Wabunsee, KS *
> * President Kaw Valley Amateur Radio Club*
> */
> __
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> bren...@whateley.com
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

[Fred Townsend]

One way of looking at desoldering it's god's way of punishing you for making
stupid mistakes. Seriously, desoldering is not easy and not easily learned
even if you have a good teacher. Two people trained alike will not do it
alike. It takes lots of patience in personal self-taught learning. Patience
is also the key word in the actual removal process. I think women are better
at it because they don't lose patience and resort to brute force. The best
paid person on the production line will be the rework specialist because
they earn every penny. 

You have already been given much good advice. The only thing I would add is
to buy some junk boards at surplus or flea market and practice before you
try the expensive boards.
73,
Fred, AE6QL 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mark
Petrovic
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:12 AM
To: elecr...@qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that unsoldering
really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I have solder wick
that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker that seems huge compared
to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of it.  And
a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical blocker to
correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.

I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck with
unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?

Thanks.
Mark
AE6RT

--
Mark
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Re: [Elecraft] Unpacking the K1 package contents

[Fred Townsend]

Perhaps it should be called a thermal conductor and electrical insulator but
then some people always complain even if hung with a new rope.
73,
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron
D'Eau Claire
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2016 4:34 PM
To: 'Mark Petrovic'; elecr...@qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unpacking the K1 package contents

Hello Mark: 

The "thermal insulator" is a thin flexible rectangular bit about 1/2" by
3/4" in size that has a hole near one end and is self-stick, so it is
supplied on a bit of backing paper you peel it off of when you install it on
the power transistor. It may be in one of the little brown envelopes. There
is a photograph of it still mounted on its backing paper in the parts list. 

The Acrylic Bezel is the plastic cover over the LCD on the front panel. Look
at the drawing of the K1 on the front cover of your manual and you'll see a
rectangle depicting the cover with a screw at each corner covering the LCD
itself and the words "Elecraft" and "K1 Transceiver". It should be in one of
the brown envelopes in the kit. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mark
Petrovic
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2016 3:50 PM
To: elecr...@qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Unpacking the K1 package contents

Hi.

Would  someone please post pictures  of  the items

E72 - Thermal insulator

and


E100108  - Acylic  bezel

I am  having  trouble locating and identifying  them  as  I unpack  my  new
K1  kit  contents.

Thanks.

--
Mark
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Re: [Elecraft] FW: Lutron dimmers

[Fred Townsend]

The link below is wrong. It should be:
http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Service-Support/Pages/Technical/Design-Selection
Tools/LEDDimmerMatrix.aspx

73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 1:06 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] FW: Lutron dimmers




GA Jim,

I am in search of replacing over 100 dimmers in our house due to an
excavating incident where the neutral was pulled out. I have had direct
contact with Lutron's tech service where I expressed my concern for both rfi
caused by the dimmers and interference to the dimmers caused by my station.

Fwiw here is the reply (the images didn't copy but were just sine wave
representations of operation)  - I went with one of their recommendations

73

Jerry, k1tgx

Good afternoon Jerry,

When dimming you can experience interference with sensitive audio equipment
depending upon the type of dimmer and type of bulb you are controlling. The
way a dimmer dims is by turning the lights on and off 120 times a second.
Based upon the on time of the signal you will either get brighter or dimmer
light. Less on time = dimmer light because the lights are not running as
long each cycle.

Any forward phase dimming control, could result in a feedback into audio
equipment due to the way that dimming signal works. The way a dimmer dims is
by turning the lights on and off 120 times a second. Based upon the on time
of the signal you will either get brighter or dimmer light. Less on time =
dimmer light because the lights are not running as long each cycle.

During this rapid cycling with a forward phase control, there is a spike
present before the dimmer turns on each time; we call this repetitive peak
(see illustration #1). When controlling incandescent or halogen bulbs you
normally will never experience misbehaviors because these bulbs are
resistive in nature and act like a filter for the line, suppressing the
repetitive peak. On the other hand, LEDs are capacitive and can greatly
increase this repetitive peak, resulting in misbehaviors, buzzing or
interference. However, since reverse phase or ELV controls dimming signals
are completely opposite than forward phase signals the buzzing is greatly
reduced if not completely eliminated (see illustration #2). There are two
things to be aware of with ELV controls, 1) these types of controls require
a neutral connection to be present at the location of installation (bundle
of white wires connected together). 2) These controls are normally 2 to 3
times to cost of standard incandescent  or LED dimmers.

Illustration #1



Illustration #2


You can view our LED selection tool at
www.lutron.com/ledtool. This LED selection
tool will allow you to generate a list of compatible LED products for all of
our LED rated dimming controls. You will all be able to access a testing
report for each of the LEDs listed here. The report will provide you with a
list of all the dimmers we can recommend for that LED, the amount of LEDs
each dimmer can control and the dimming range you will experience.

If looking for ELV solutions on our LED selection tool, select "reverse
phase" from the control technology menu. Also, here is a list of ELV
controls that we can recommend for use with LED products.

* MRF2-6ELV-120
* RRD-6NA
* HQRD-6NA
* PHPM-WBX-DV-WH
* PHPM-PA-DV-WH
* LP-RPM-4A-120
* HW-RPM-4A-120

Please let me know if you have any questions

Sincerely,
Matt Rehrig
Lutron Support
Lutron Electronics, Inc.
www.lutron.com
MR
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Re: [Elecraft] Antennas with resistor and OCFD.

[Fred Townsend]

True rhombics are hard to rotate. Even harder is finding the space to put
one up in the first place. See what your HOA has to say about it.
73
Fred, AE6QL 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron
D'Eau Claire
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 8:43 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antennas with resistor and OCFD.

Fred, K6DGW wrote:

Ummm ... rhombics *always* work well for their intended use. 
Unterminated, they are bi-directional.  With the terminating resistor, they
are unidirectional in the direction from the feedline to the terminator.
Since terminated rhombics are usually 2 or more wavelengths on a side, they
have very narrow beamwidths with a big F/B ratio, low radiation angle, and
high gain.


Quite so but it's worth noting that the unidirectional characteristics
obtained with a terminating resistor did not result in any additional gain.
Instead, the resistor absorbed the RF that would have been radiated on (or
received from) the reciprocal heading, giving the array its unidirectional
characteristic.

Yagi's, quads and similar arrays gain a stronger main lobe by suppressing
radiation in other directions.  

A rhombic is a classic example of how the best design is not always the
design that radiates the most RF. 
The problem with a rhombic for Ham use on the HF bands is that they tend to
be an absolute beast to try to rotate. 

73, Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] Anti Static Bench

[Fred Townsend]

Richard I have worked with some of the most static sensitive parts in the
world, tunnel diodes. When working for NASA we had to do a failure modes
analysis on any parts that failed. I would say the quality of the ESD
material ranked at the bottom of factors to take into account. Particularly
since any top would be used in conjunction with an antistatic mat. The mats
do wear out in the sense that the rubber dries out and they tend to crumble.
Other than that I find they all do the job.  There is wide latitude. 
In terms of tops you do not want such as metal or any slick plastic or vinyl
surfaces where things slide. I think the ones we used were either wood or
composition. I think your ESD top would be fine.
Some of the little things are very important. Don't use storage bins with
little polystyrene trays for anything. (I like muffin tins.) Likewise keep
Styrofoam out of the room. I have measured 5KV on a Styrofoam cup that had
coffee in it. Our pot cores came packed in Styrofoam. We had the stockroom
unload them and repack in metal trays. Keep the humidity in the range of 40
to 60%RH. Wear only cotton clothing and make sure your soldering iron is
grounded. If you wax the floors use an antistatic wax. Use only pink or
silver antistatic bags such as Elecraft uses. Leave the ZIP lock bags in
your kitchen. BTW if you are one that thinks that ESD devices must be in a
certain narrow range of resistance, measure the resistance of an antistatic
bag. You'll find the range is way out of sight. The trick here is not to
generate ESD rather than dissipating ESD after you make it. 
73
Fred, AE6QL 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mark
Goldberg
Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2016 5:50 PM
To: Bob McGraw K4TAX
Cc: Elecraft Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anti Static Bench

I agree with the previous responses. ESD material does wear out, especially
in my dry climate. It has to be replaced once in a while.
In commercial operations is is tested on a schedule and discarded if it does
not pass. It has to be conductive enough to keep parts from damage and
resistive enough to not allow a shock.

I would like to offer another option.

Home Depot will sell you workbench legs, I bought these but they have
several sizes. They were shipped free

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Edsal-33-in-Adjustable-Height-Workbench-Legs-ABL3
0/204417821;jsessionid=E3520EC0F5BF7CC72323A1EF2F5C2DE0
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Edsal-5-in-x-72-in-Work-Bench-Stringer-ST72/20441
7825

I then laminated 1/8 masonite on a solid core door, routed the edges and put
oak edge banding on just for grins to make the bench tops. I also but blocks
under the legs to make it taller for a stand up bench.

Take a look at my qrz.com page for pictures.

It saved a bunch of money over a standard lab type workbench and I had fun
making it. A standard countertop or similar would go on the legs easily,
they just screw onto the bottom. The legs are very sturdy. I just put ESD
mat on the work surface area. The edge banding was not the best idea, it
tends to chip easily. I connected my ground system to the metal legs, maybe
it helps as a counterpoise, maybe it makes no difference.

73,

Mark
W7MLG


On Sat, Jan 23, 2016 at 6:28 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX 
wrote:
> Places such as LOWE'S and HOME DEPOT carry stock counter tops. Usually 
> in 4 ft, 6 ft, 8 ft and 10 ft lengths of several different colors.
Standard
> depth including the back splash is about 25".I have used one for
years.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT Mystery QRM Help (Video)

[Fred Townsend]

Gentlemen: 
That is not a dirty signal. It's very clean with about a 2 KHz wide SSB. The 
sidebands are very clean. I'd say you have a beacon or some other intentionally 
caused signal. It may be modulated by some grey line effect but the pulses are 
consistent as I can tell hearing only 4.  

73
Fred, AE6QL
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Barry 
LaZar
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2016 7:52 PM
To: David Ahrendts; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT Mystery QRM Help (Video)

David,
 I'm going to make a wild guess based on an experience I had about 10 or so 
years ago. See if there is a commercial establishment not too far away that has 
an external air handler as a part of its HVAC system. Some of these used solid 
state controllers that weren't too clean. You may have one near by. In my case, 
it took a while to find it and get it fixed. First, we needed to figure out 
what it was and next where it was. 
Figuring out what it was was the hardest as no one had ever seen this before. 
And, the way we found it was by eliminating all other possible sources. I wish 
that you have less trouble locating your problem than we had.

73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "David Ahrendts" 
To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Sent: 1/22/2016 9:16:36 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] OT Mystery QRM Help (Video)

>Stumped. Need your guesses. What is this mystery, rhythmically pulsing, 
>urban S7 QRM:  https://vimeo.com/152779708 
>
>
>Factors: captured 5:30pm Friday (Sunset was 5:15). Densely packed Los 
>Angeles neighborhood — could be next door or a block away. Occurs 
>regularly at night or near dusk and not prime 20M day time. Occurs only 
>on 20M. I’ve noticed it from Fall on to current Winter time.  Seems to 
>be a mechanical device (pool pump?). 60-degrees falling to 50-degrees 
>tonight -- a heater system? Eventually just fizzles away slowly.
>Elecraft K3S + P3, SteppIR DB-11.
>
>David A., KK6DA (formerly KC0XT), LA
>
>
>
>David Ahrendts davidahren...@me.com
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT} K5P Palmyra Mystery Island

[Fred Townsend]

Two videos cover the subject:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkSHtqxKj8o
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GqaYWdZ9BlM

73
Fred, AE6QL
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Doug
Turnbull
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2016 1:31 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [OT} K5P Palmyra Mystery Island


Dear OMs and Yls,
  Elecraft is a sponsor so perhaps this off topic account of Palmyra
Island is of interest.   EI6IL did some research on Palmyra and came up with
this link which gives an interesting account of dark happenings on Palmyra
Atoll.A read of this may add some spice to your hunt.   Good luck.

http://mysteriousuniverse.org/2014/07/the-cursed-paradise-of-palmyra-atoll/

73 Doug EI2CN



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Re: [Elecraft] OT antenna question

[Fred Townsend]

Vic:
Sounds like you have some things to check. Joe and others have given good
advice. However I question your overall design. It sounds like you have a
number of mismatches in your system. For instance is the feed point
impedance of your 20M dipole >600 ohms at 40 meters?  I think not but that
would be your match for "true ladder line". Then you switch to 450 ohm
ladder line at the static box. Have you checked for fried spiders across the
spark gaps? Then you go through a couple of caps, value unknown into a 4:1
balun which would bring you down about a 100 ohms (neglecting the caps) at
the coax. Seems like you would be adding series inductance not capacitance
and then maybe a 6 or 8 to 1 balun. Overall it seems like you are tuning
your feedline not your antenna.   Also you do not say how much power you are
running but I am betting you are getting less than 10% to your antenna. If
you are running 500 watts that would leave 450 watts dissipated in your
feedline. Ouch! It could be your coax is melting. 
Finally it sounds like you have multiple reflection points in your system
which isn't going to make your SWR meters very accurate. I recommend you try
simulating your transmission line in SPICE or some other simulation CAD
program and see what you really have. 
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe
Subich, W4TV
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2016 8:59 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Cc: Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT antenna question


On 1/12/2016 10:57 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
 > If your tuner uses disk ceramic caps, as many do, these can be  > heating
thus not being able to handle the RF current.  They heat  > and cool and
change value which in turn changes tuning.

Particularly if you are using a 4:1 balun!  On 40 meters the impedance of
the half size antenna is *very low*.  The 4:1 balun will further decrease
the impedance seen by the tuner causing it to work at its absolute worst
efficiency (highest circulating current).

At the very least see if you can extend the dipole to 44', then get some
Smith Chart software and see if you can find a compromise feedline length
that provides a reasonable impedance on all bands, and finally replace the
4:1 balun with a high quality 1:1 current balun.

By extending the dipole you should be able to find a compromise feedline
length that will provide a 100 - 300 Ohm impedance on all bands - something
the tuner will be much happier to with and be far more efficient than
working at best than 10 Ohms as it probably is doing on 40 meters.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 1/12/2016 10:57 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
> If your tuner uses disk ceramic caps, as many do, these can be heating
thus not being able to handle the RF current.  They heat and cool and change
value which in turn changes tuning.
>
> Replacing them with suitable RF current rated units is the solution.
>
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jan 12, 2016, at 5:27 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV  wrote:
>>
>> Hi Vic,
>>
>> Your story does suggest trouble at very high current points. Just a 
>> list of things below I've heard or seen to stir up a new idea or two. 
>> No opinion on which if any makes any sense in your situation.
>>
>> -
>>
>> Insect nests in tubular spacers on open wire.
>>
>> Spacers have carbon tracks.
>>
>> Material inside the balun housing is much hotter than touchable material.
>>
>> Stranded wire in open wire has been waterlogged, corroded and the 
>> remaining conductor material at a current max along the line is heating
up.
>>
>> Wire inside insulation is nearly all broken, or is broken, and 
>> contact is miscellaneous and highly resistive.
>>
>> Insulation on the wire is significantly compromised by ultra violet 
>> or critter nibbling, letting in water to the stranded conductor. 
>> Advice, has been to use bare solid #12 copper or larger for open wire 
>> that is carrying large standing waves, to handle the current maximums.
>>
>> Check heat all around the entire core. I have burned up some number 
>> of cores before I understood the materials and engineering. On one 
>> all the damage was on a spot that comprised only 15 degrees of the
circumference.
>>
>> Electrical connections in aluminum elements made of telescoping 
>> tubing go highly resistive as water is boiled out of the joints.
>>
>> Connections made of dissimilar metals/materials go bad and become 
>> more resistive as water is boiled out of the joint.
>>
>> Tuner rotary switches going bad.
>>
>> The rolling contact on on a variable coil losing its tension 
>> (numerous ways for this to happen depending on construction), contact 
>> is very small and becomes worse as it heats up. Fixed by repairing 
>> mechanism for maintaining contact.
>>
>> Parted conductors at conductor joints due to metal erosion at the 
>> contact point.
>>
>> 
>>
>> Your troubles would have me taking down the dipole, rebuilding 

Re: [Elecraft] Lightning Protection (was-Re: suggested PC???)

[Fred Townsend]

I would disagree with the use of MOVs at the service entrance unless there are 
inductors preceding.  

The key words in this discussion are protection systems. There is no one 
component or silver bullet that will protect all. The chances are if you take a 
direct strike there will be damage so unplugging is still a good idea. You 
would like any damage to be to cheap things like surge protectors that are  
easily replaced. Having said that MOVs are cheap but they are not lighting 
protectors so it is foolhardy to build your principle lightning defense around 
them. For those wondering a surge is like when the secondary power line falls 
down on the low voltage line or a lightning strike AFTER the leading edge of 
the wave front is diminished. In short MOVs work in milliseconds. The leading 
edge of a lightning burst is in the microsecond range. Transorbs, gas 
protectors, capacitors, and carbon protectors are shunting devices in networks 
that work in the microsecond range and can be used at the service entrance. 

Series Inductance is a great way to knock off the leading edge but absolutely 
defeats your protection system when used in the grounding system or green wire. 
Remember ALL conductors have inductance so shorter is better. Never coil or 
square a ground wire.

Maintenance of protection systems is essential too. Transorbs and carbons fail 
shorted. For this reason VDE sometimes requires these type components to be 
protected by fuses as well.  Gas protectors and MOVs fail open. MOVs fail 
gradually too. Capacitors and inductors take physical damage too and can fail 
either open or shorted. After your big lightning storm these components should 
be inspected and replaced if you see black smudges on or around them. MOVs will 
physically deteriorate and are easy to spot defective ones.

73,
Fred, AE6QL
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Brown
Sent: Wednesday, January 6, 2016 1:35 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Lightning Protection (was-Re: suggested PC???)

YES!

Another VERY important thing is to NEVER use "MOV surge protectors" on branch 
circuits. They're great at the service entrance, as Bob recommends, but they 
CAUSE equipment damage when used on branch circuit, because the MOVs dump the 
lightning spike onto the Green wire, which creates a high voltage spike on the 
Green wire. That voltage is different at every outlet and at every piece of 
gear, and the difference shows up as a common mode voltage between 
interconnected equipment. 
THAT'S what blows up stuff connected by wired Ethernet.  We discovered this the 
hard way about 25 years ago in the pro audio industry.

The ONLY safe surge protectors on branch circuits (that is, next to
equipment)  are SERIES MODE protectors. They work by storing the surge in a big 
inductor, then slowly discharging it. They're more expensive, but they won't 
blow up your gear. The only mfrs I know of are Brick Wall, Zero Surge, and 
SurgeX.

Also critical -- bond ALL grounds together, including the shack ground, CATV 
ground, TELCO ground, etc., and back to the power ground.

73, Jim K9YC


On Wed,1/6/2016 11:35 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
> Two things I've found to be a big deterrent regarding lightning damage:
>
> (a) all driven grounds must be bonded back to the AC mains ground and 
> this must be done outside of the house.   I use some 1/2" flexible 
> copper water line as my bonding conductor.  It is trenched around the 
> outside of the foundation about 6" deep from the tower ground and coax 
> lightening protection system back to the AC Mains ground some 50 ft away.
>
> (b)  Install a whole house surge protector at the main breaker panel.  
> These are sometimes referred to as Secondary Surge Protectors.  
> Usually should be installed by a qualified licensed electrician.
>
> 73
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>
> On 1/6/2016 11:52 AM, Barry Baines wrote:
>> Neil:
>>
>>
>>> On Jan 6, 2016, at 8:25 AM, Neil Zampella  wrote:
>>>
>>> FWIW ... I've got everything setup wired in the shack, but 
>>> everything (cable coax, ethernet, power) runs through an
>>> uninterruptible power supply (ups).   Many of the higher end models 
>>> provide not only power surge protection and battery, but 
>>> lightning/surge protection for coax and ethernet.
>>
>> By ‘coax’ do you mean cable TV coax or are you suggesting RF coax for 
>> amateur radio transceivers?  Clearly, UPS surge protection is not 
>> designed for anything on the order that an amateur transmitter (even
>> QRP) can produce.  Further, UPS devices presume 75 ohm coax systems, 
>> not 50 Ohm as used in amateur radio antennas and transmitters. They 
>> are designed to protect a TV antenna or a cable setup box/cable modem.
>>
>> My shack in Georgia was impacted by an indirect hit in 2014 which 
>> damaged computers, amplifiers, ethernet switches, and a myriad of 
>> gear that was ’networked’ in the shack as well as the 

Re: [Elecraft] any ideals who might have these?

[Fred Townsend]

Hi Gerald:
I have never seen screw caps for mike connectors. Many companies use plastic
(polyethylene) push on caps for protection during shipping. I have seen them
in bulk in my shipping materials catalogs. Also at retail at OSH. I think
the brand was capsco.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of KC6CNN
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2015 9:11 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] any ideals who might have these?

I am looking for a cap of some sort that will screw on the microphone
connector on my K3 and my K2. 
I just want some type of cap that will protect it from dust. 
I saw a youtube video of a guy in the UK that had some type of a cap screwed
on his and it looked nice. 
Any ideals of where they got those or who can make them?
Thanks
Gerald - KC6CNN




-
KC6CNN - Gerald
K1 # 0014
K2 # 5486
K3 # 6294
KX3 # 757
--
View this message in context:
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85.html
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Voltmeter calibration ...

[Fred Townsend]

Joe check your schematic and you will see there is both a polyfuse and a
diode in series with the K3 front panel. The 100w PA pulls off its current
ahead of the fuse and diode so using the front panel is not indicative of
the voltage of the current going to power amp. Hang a voltmeter on the APP
if you want accuracy. Incidentally the polyfuse will permanently change
cold value after interrupting for the first time so there is another
variable.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe
Subich, W4TV
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2015 9:31 AM
To: Robert Nobis; Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Voltmeter calibration ...


> You could easily drop 0.2 volts in the cable depending how long it 
> isand the gauge of the wire.

Not in six feet of #10 wire at 1.5A.  Even if it were #12 the voltage drop
should be less than 0.03V (1.62 Ohms/1000 feet for #12).

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 11/24/2015 10:39 AM, Robert Nobis wrote:
> Joe,
>
> How long is your power cable from the RS-35A to your K3, and what gauge
wire is used?  You could easily drop 0.2 volts in the cable depending how
long it is and the gauge of the wire.
>
> 73,
>
>
> Bob Nobis - N7RJN
> n7...@nobis.net
>
>
>> On Nov 24, 2015, at 08:06, Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:
>>
>>
>> OK, I'm sure I am overlooking something simple but I can not find (or 
>> remember) how to calibrate the voltage display in the K3.
>>
>> I had to repair one of my Astron RS-35A power supplies for the first 
>> time in 30 years (one of the diodes shorted) and when I put it back 
>> on line I decided to double check the K3 Volts display against the 
>> actual output of the supply.  The K3 is reading about 0.2V less than 
>> the supply voltage.
>>
>> I've been over both the K3 Owner's Manual and the K3 Assembly 
>> Instructions but can't find any reference to calibrating the voltage 
>> display.
>>
>> 73,
>>
>>... Joe, W4TV
>>
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>>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 DSP processor speed

[Fred Townsend]

Bob:
There are many many reasons why this is an apples to watermelon comparison.
Too many for discussion here. However two thoughts. In general the faster
the processor the 'more' chances of producing RFI. It could be Wayne and the
boys kept the processor speed low to reduce noise. Also in CMOS processors
the current drain goes up proportional to the square of clock frequency.
Simply faster processors take more power and with power comes the need for
fans and heatsinks. That's from the physical side. However the application
of more filters could possibly reduce noise from the software side but this
is far from a simple tradeoff. 
Finally even if were a push between the K3 and 7851 have you ever heard of
anyone bragging about their service?
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Robert
Sands
Sent: Monday, November 9, 2015 1:32 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 DSP processor speed

I was informed by an ICOM 7851 owner that the ICOM has DSP processors are
10 times as fast as the K3 and therefore has noise reducing advantage. Not
that important to me but curious if this is meaningful and if there is
consideration of chasing this performance spec by Elecraft and if not Why
not?
Bob
K7VO
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Headphone Splitter - Not The Kind You May Be Thinking

[Fred Townsend]

Joel:
I'm not sure from your description exactly what your application is and whether 
you need gain. For many years I have been using an amplified "one to three 
splitter". It is stereo with a male input and three female outputs. The circuit 
appears to be six emitter followers, two for each output, so there is isolation 
with power gain but no voltage gain. It is powered by two AA cells that seem to 
last forever but I only use the splitter when using the K3 and have a guest in 
the shack and we are putting on the cans to keep other members of the household 
happy. I understand you wanted male outputs but that is easily converted by 
plugging in male to male cables.
I got the first one from the manufacturer and latter picked up 3 more when RS 
was closing them out. I have since seen them advertised by other online 
sellers. Would this solve your problem?
73
Fred, AE6QL
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joel Black
Sent: Saturday, November 7, 2015 5:53 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] [OT] Headphone Splitter - Not The Kind You May Be Thinking

I am looking for a stereo headphone splitter - with a caveat…

I need a 3.5 mm (F) to Y 3.5 mm (M) with each connector on the “Y” male. Each 
male plug needs TRS.

I have ordered something from Amazon.com  advertised as 
just that and it turned out that it was a Y adapter for mic / headphone. 
Problem is, mic is just TR. I need TRS on each male connector.

I realize I may have to resort to making something, but it would be easier to 
just buy something like that.

Have any of you seen anything like what I’m describing? I’m coming up empty.

73,
Joel - W4JBB
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Voltage on TX

[Fred Townsend]

Hi Rich:
A couple of more things. First do the math. Assuming 20 amps of transmit
current (that's my rig @100 watts output) with a 2 volt drop is 40 watts of
lost energy (not my rig). That also happens to be the power rating of my
soldering iron. To point, something is likely to be getting warm. You should
be able to find your problem by touching your cables and connectors while
transmitting a 100 watts of RTTY,  AM, etc. 
Also, I hope you are not using a diode type power sharing device sold to
share power supply and battery. Think about it. Why do they need a big heat
sink? Big heat sinks mean lots of wasted power.
73
Fred, AE6QL 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rich
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 10:05 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Voltage on TX

Thanks to all.  I have check my PS and it does not fluctuate even a 
tenth of a volt on TX.With the radio connected directly to the PS.  
I am now seeing 14.1 VDC and 12.0 VDC on TX.  So I need to look closer at
the wire gauge and connectors.  That is still about 2VDC drop.

Thanks for the help

rich

On 10/26/2015 12:09 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
> If the wire gauge is OK and the supply regulation is not at fault, 
> give some attention to the connectors at each end of the cable, too. A 
> drop of 2.8 Volts points to some sort of issue.
>
> 73, Phil W7OX
>
> On 10/26/15 9:02 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
>> On Mon,10/26/2015 8:48 AM, Rich wrote:
>>> My K3 shows 13.7VDC on RX. When I TX that reading drops to 10.9VDC. 
>>> Is that a normal drop? 
>>
>> It's not good. Two possible reasons -- poor regulation of the power 
>> supply and IR drop in the power cable.
>>
>> How long is the power cable between the K3 and power supply? What 
>> wire gauge?  Do the arithmetic for Ohm's law for the IR drop in that 
>> length of that wire gauge. and remember to use the length of the 
>> cable x2 (for two conductors). Resistance per ft for various wire 
>> gauges is in the ARRL Handbook.
>>
>> Put a voltmeter across the output terminals of the power supply and 
>> check the voltage. It's also possible that the power supply has poor 
>> regulation.
>>
>> 73, Jim K9YC
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 low power setting "gap"

[Fred Townsend]

Hi Felix:
Don't we all wish we had your problem. One work around would be to put a 3db
pad between your K3 and your amp. That might help your IMD too. Just a
thought.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Felix Hormuth
Sent: Thursday, October 8, 2015 12:20 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3/100 low power setting "gap"

Dear all,

I have a kind of luxury problem concerning achieving output powers in FSK
between 9.5 and 13W. The setup: a relatively new K3/100 with the last
firmware a recent TX gain calibration. I'm doing a lot of RTTY, mostly in
submode FSK D. Now I hooked up a 1K-FA linear amplifier which has quite some
gain. For serious work in RTTY I'd like to settle around 500W output, i.e.
half max.
The ideal input power for that would be somewhere between 10 and 12W.

Now the problem: for powers below 13W only the LPA is active. The output
power in RTTY goes up to 9.5W but not further, regardless if I set 10, 11,
or 12W. When I increase to 13W the KPA3 kicks in and I get ~13.5W.
So at the moment I cannot reach the 'sweet spot' that would be required for
my desired 500W RTTY.

So the questions are:
- Is the LPA capable at all for CW output of 10-12W or does that only  apply
for PEP in SSB? Are 12W only possible w/o KPA3 installed?
- Has someone an idea for a good workaround?

So far I only came up with the idea to manually mis-"calibrate" the TX gain
in order to reduce the overall output so that I start in fact with ~10W when
I set the output to 13W. That'd limit the maximum output to below 100W but
that would actually fine for me. Without PA I'll be doing only PSK and JT65,
and for that 50W are more than enough.
However, that's a rather nasty solution and if anyone has a better
suggestion I would be happy to hear about it.

vy 73,
Felix DL2FHO





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Re: [Elecraft] SS30DV feedback

[Fred Townsend]

Joe, I am familiar with Kelvin sensing, otherwise known as 4 wire or remote 
sensing. Its advantages are probably outweighed by the risks of misconnecting 
and filtering needed for RF environments. With <4 feet of 10 ga wire I don't 
see significant voltage drops. I prefer KISS.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe Subich, W4TV
Sent: Friday, October 2, 2015 12:33 PM
To: Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SS30DV feedback

On 10/2/2015 12:33 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
> The SS30DV has +/- bolt terminals on the rear. The K3S is supplied 
> with a power cable using ring lugs for these bolts on one end, and an 
> APP connector for the K3S on the other.

Very good!  How about remote sensing terminals/connector on the next iteration 
of the K3/K3S - ideally on the KPA3 ?

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 10/2/2015 12:33 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
> The SS30DV has +/- bolt terminals on the rear. The K3S is supplied 
> with a power cable using ring lugs for these bolts on one end, and an 
> APP connector for the K3S on the other.
>
> One other note, at the 100W operating level, we do not see any 
> significant voltage drop across the APP conn.
>
> 73,
>
> Eric
> /elecraft.com/
>
> On 10/2/2015 8:53 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
>>
>>> I prefer a PS with black and red connectors so I can connect any 
>>> cable and don´t worry about connectors.
>>
>> Quality *bolt* terminals will generally show less voltage drop in 
>> transmit than the wiping contacts like PowerPole connectors.  That is 
>> particularly true when the PowerPoles are not assembled correctly and 
>> there is less than full pressure between the wiping contacts.
>>
>> I would prefer any power supply and transceiver with greater than 5A 
>> current rating use 1/4" or 3/8" stub bolted connections like the 
>> Astron RS-35A/RS-35M and potentially provide a voltage sense 
>> connection to support load sensing for supplies that support it or 
>> can be modified to support it.
>>
>> 73,
>>
>>... Joe, W4TV
>>
>>
>> On 10/2/2015 11:33 AM, Jorge Diez - CX6VM wrote:
>>> Hello Matt
>>>
>>> Thanks for the Info.
>>>
>>> I have two SEC-1235M and I hate the terminal screws, I think they 
>>> are aluminum and I broke them if removing power cable too much times
>>>
>>> I prefer a PS with black and red connectors so I can connect any 
>>> cable and don´t worry about connectors.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>> Jorge
>>> CX6VM/CW5W
>>>
>>> -Mensaje original-
>>> De: Matt Zilmer [mailto:mzil...@roadrunner.com] Enviado el: viernes, 
>>> 02 de octubre de 2015 12:13 p.m.
>>> Para: Jorge Diez - CX6VM
>>> CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> Asunto: Re: [Elecraft] SS30DV feedback
>>>
>>> Hi Jorge,
>>>
>>> I have both power supplies here  - SS30DV and the Samlex SEC1235M.
>>>
>>> Except for the 1235 having voltage and current meters (the SS30 does 
>>> not), there is little difference in performance.  One thing that 
>>> might affect your decision is that the 1235 has an (internally) 
>>> adjustable output voltage.
>>> The SS30DV is fixed at 14.1V.
>>>
>>> I run full power with a K3 and with a KX3/KXPA100 with either power 
>>> supply, and no isssues found with either one.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> matt
>>> W6NIA
>>>
>>> On Fri, 2 Oct 2015 09:18:32 -0300, you wrote:
>>>
 Hello



 I will appreciate feedback from users of the SS30DV power supply 
 with a
 K3



 Are you happy with it?  With full power on the K3, the SS30DV is 
 running comfortable? IS noisy?



 If you compare for example with a Samlex SEC-1235M, what do you think?



 Thanks very much



 73,

 Jorge

 CX6VM/CW5W



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>>> Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
>>> --
>>> "Always store beer in a dark place."  -R. Heinlein
>>>
>>>
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>>> email list: 

Re: [Elecraft] SS30DV feedback OT

[Fred Townsend]

Brain yes I recall tubes and the multiple power supply requirements. I even 
designed to a few. I also remember how rough it was to do mobile power supplies 
where the HV came from either vibrators or dynamotors. Then it was transistors 
and everything went to 13.85V. But transistor output tanks were never the same 
because transistor class C tank coils couldn't handle the current so we went to 
low Q tanks with class B outputs. 

Around 2002-2003 there was SAE group called 42Volt. They stated by 2007 that 
the AC compressor, water pump, and power steering would be electrically driven 
and therefore the automotive industry must switch to 42 volts (basically three 
12v batteries in series). I couldn't wait for 42 volts to work its way into ham 
radio. By 2007 the group had disbanded. My guess is hybrids killed 42V because 
they wanted to keep the accessories powered by the engine and not the hybrid 
battery.

The K2 and K3 are dual desktop and mobile radios. Perhaps it is time for a 
desktop only radio with HV FET finals with a built in power supply. Also a 42V 
mobile with its own add-on alternator and quiet down converter for the receiver 
and LEDs. 
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of brian
Sent: Friday, October 2, 2015 1:12 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SS30DV feedback

Fred,
I'm a fan of higher voltage -- perhaps 24 or 40 volts so that PA 
transistors can produce cleaner signals.   Doing so reduces any IR drop 
on power supply wiring by a factor of 2 or 3.  KISS.

  IC's are going to lower and lower voltages.   Multiple circuits within 
boxes require a menagerie of voltages.   One is faced with having to 
generate more heat in regulators dropping 40 volts to 12, maybe 5, 3.3 
and 1.6 V.   Perhaps the era of efficient multivoltage power supplies 
with multiple wires for multiple voltages will return.   (Remember 
filament ,plate, screen and grid voltage power supplies in days of yore?  Guys 
generally didn't mistakenly hook up the 3500 V B+ wire to the filaments..)

73 de Brian/K3KO


On 10/2/2015 19:54 PM, Fred Townsend wrote:
> Joe, I am familiar with Kelvin sensing, otherwise known as 4 wire or remote 
> sensing. Its advantages are probably outweighed by the risks of misconnecting 
> and filtering needed for RF environments. With <4 feet of 10 ga wire I don't 
> see significant voltage drops. I prefer KISS.
> 73
> Fred, AE6QL
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe Subich, 
> W4TV
> Sent: Friday, October 2, 2015 12:33 PM
> To: Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SS30DV feedback
>
> On 10/2/2015 12:33 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
>> The SS30DV has +/- bolt terminals on the rear. The K3S is supplied 
>> with a power cable using ring lugs for these bolts on one end, and an 
>> APP connector for the K3S on the other.
> Very good!  How about remote sensing terminals/connector on the next 
> iteration of the K3/K3S - ideally on the KPA3 ?
>
> 73,
>
>  ... Joe, W4TV
>
>
> On 10/2/2015 12:33 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
>> The SS30DV has +/- bolt terminals on the rear. The K3S is supplied 
>> with a power cable using ring lugs for these bolts on one end, and an 
>> APP connector for the K3S on the other.
>>
>> One other note, at the 100W operating level, we do not see any 
>> significant voltage drop across the APP conn.
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> Eric
>> /elecraft.com/
>>
>> On 10/2/2015 8:53 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
>>>> I prefer a PS with black and red connectors so I can connect any 
>>>> cable and don´t worry about connectors.
>>> Quality *bolt* terminals will generally show less voltage drop in 
>>> transmit than the wiping contacts like PowerPole connectors.  That 
>>> is particularly true when the PowerPoles are not assembled correctly 
>>> and there is less than full pressure between the wiping contacts.
>>>
>>> I would prefer any power supply and transceiver with greater than 5A 
>>> current rating use 1/4" or 3/8" stub bolted connections like the 
>>> Astron RS-35A/RS-35M and potentially provide a voltage sense 
>>> connection to support load sensing for supplies that support it or 
>>> can be modified to support it.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>>
>>> ... Joe, W4TV
>>>
>>>
>>> On 10/2/2015 11:33 AM, Jorge Diez - CX6VM wrote:
>>>> Hello Matt
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for the Info.
>>>>
>>>> I have two SEC-1235

[Elecraft] Cabela's Specials

[Fred Townsend]

A number of people contacted me off list asking what the model number of the
gun box I bought. I was visiting and I gave the box to my host (he doesn't
know either) so I don't have it. Perhaps when I get the bill. In the mean
here is some suggested info on the stackable ammo case below.

73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Matt Zilmer [mailto:mzil...@roadrunner.com] 
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2015 9:38 PM
To: Fred Townsend
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Cabela's Specials

Cabela's, Bass Pro, and Harbor Freight sell an ammo case that fits a
KX3 plus a few accessories (mic, KXPD3, 2m antenna [Diamond RH205], ear
buds.  It's marketed sometimes with the name Plano, but often with no
tradename.  This little case is perfect for a mobile KX3 carrier.
It's not quite proper for hiking.

This might be the 50 cal ammo can Fred is talking about, below.  The price I
paid was $9 a few years ago.

73,
matt
W6NIA

On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 17:12:05 -0600, you wrote:

>I just finished my sojourn to  Cabela's. I noticed they had a nice 
>plastic gun case with foam inserts that fit my K3. They have a credit 
>card promotion which gives $25 off your first purchase which halved the 
>price of the gun case. They also have equivalent plastic stackable 
>waterproof 50 cal ammo cases for a little over ten bucks. I'm ready for
field day now.
>
>73
>Fred, AE6QL
>
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Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
--
"Always store beer in a dark place."  -R. Heinlein

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S proper grounding?

[Fred Townsend]

Gerry there is NO one size fits all grounding solution. As Don suggests you
are really dealing with four grounding systems. Your RF or rig ground, a
lightning ground, your NEC or house power ground (neutral), and finally the
safety ground (green wire) ground which is really part of the NEC ground.
Often the requirements of one system will be at odds with other grounding
requirements. For instance you generally want a high impedance for RFI
issues and a very low impedance for lightning grounds.  One system defeats
the other so they really need to be separate systems. 
Your NEC and lightning grounds have very serious safety issues so running
your proposed wiring changes by your local power company can often be very
helpful. Most power companies have an expert on such issues although the
existence of such a person is often a closely held secret. 
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2015 12:08 PM
To: ae...@carolinaheli.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S proper grounding?

Your grounding plan sounds fine, *if* and only if you connect that separate
ground rod to the utility entrance ground rod using a #6 or #4 copper wire -
that wire should be buried several inches and run outside your dwelling
foundation.
That connection is a NEC requirement and is necessary for safety. All ground
rods *must* be connected together unless they are more than 100 feet apart.

You cannot create an RF ground by connecting to a ground rod.  It is only
for AC safety and a measure of lightning protection.

OCF antennas can be difficult to tame for RF in the shack.  Use of a very
good quality common mode choke at the feedpoint (in addition to the
4:1 balun) may help.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/26/2015 1:41 PM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:
> The plan I'm thinking of so far.
>
> 1.   Run an 8 gauge dedicated power feeder from my main panel (on the
> opposite side of the house) to the shack with a 20A breaker. The 8Ga 
> is to lower ground losses.
>
> 2.   Install a ground rod outside my shack and run a heavy gauge to the
> shack to bond with the dedicated power line ground.
>
> 3.   Ground all gear in the shack to the dedicated power ground.
>
> 4.   ?? maybe do a run of 14-2 romex with all three leads bonded together
up
> to the mast, install a mast antenna switch and ground it with the 14-2.
>
>

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[Elecraft] Cabela's Specials

[Fred Townsend]

I just finished my sojourn to  Cabela's. I noticed they had a nice plastic
gun case with foam inserts that fit my K3. They have a credit card promotion
which gives $25 off your first purchase which halved the price of the gun
case. They also have equivalent plastic stackable waterproof 50 cal ammo
cases for a little over ten bucks. I'm ready for field day now. 

73
Fred, AE6QL

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Solar - Mostly for Wayne

[Fred Townsend]

Ken:
I would add the caveat that not all cells are wide angles like yours. After
maximum power aiming mine (Harbor Freight) are at 25% of rated power within
15 minutes. That makes aiming them almost a full time job.
73
Fred, AE6QL 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken G Kopp
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2015 1:57 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Solar - Mostly for Wayne

The following from a number of years experience as a power company
communications tech with mountain top solar radio repeater sites and a
long-time RV solar and wind power user.

Mounting solar panels in a flat position may turn out to be the most
practical.  The conventional way is to angle them towards the sun at an
angle equal to your latitude, but even at 46 degrees here in Montana the
difference in output between 0 and 46 degrees is only about 7%.  Hardly
worth the trouble of dealing with the mechanics of angle mounting or
seasonal adjustment.

At Wayne's lower latitude, this is even more the case.

Our RV has 12A worth of panels and they're mounted flat on the roof.  They
charge four Trojan T-145 6V
(440AH) golf cart batteries (via a regulator) and we've never run short of
power.  BTW, the batteries have been in service for almost 12 years.

There's a 1500W inverter for the TV, SatTV receiver, computer(s), etc.  The
one thing we don't do is power the 1000W microwave oven via the inverter.
It requires
90 amps from the batteries to operate the microwave and I hesitate to draw
that from the battery for long periods of time for fear of warping the
plates.

I also have a small Air 403 windmill that mounts to the RV's rear bumper
that's good for 25A in a stiff breeze.
It also gets lots of interest from other RV'ers.  Especially at the
Quartzite, AZ gathering. (:-)

73!

Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: RE: K3S proper grounding?

[Fred Townsend]

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Brown
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2015 10:16 PM
To: Reflector Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] Fwd: RE: K3S proper grounding?











-Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Brown Sent: 
Sunday, September 27, 2015 3:49 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: 
Re: [Elecraft] K3S proper grounding?

 > Often the requirements of one system will be at odds with other >
grounding requirements. For instance you generally want a high > impedance
for RFI issues and a very low impedance for lightning > grounds. One system
defeats the other so they really need to be separate systems. NO, NO, NO,
NO!

  [Fred Townsend] Well yes maybe. How do you bond a ferrite choke? Are not
all chokes high impedance at their intended useful frequency? I said
'system' not 'ground'.

[K9YC]

Huh? Chokes are used on SIGNAL lines, NOT on bonding conductors. A
fundamental requirement of bonding is that it be LOW IMPEDANCE, so, in
general, bonding conductors should not be choked. Further, lightning is NOT
a DC event, it is an RF event. It's an impulse, with broad energy peak
around 1 MHz.

[Fred Townsend] Correct on all scores
Jim I think you have tunnel vision on bonding. Jim as others suggested this
was really an EMI issue and I was addressing this as a system or EMI issue.
In this case chokes are appropriate for signal AND power cords containing
neutral. I don't believe anyone suggested chokes on bonding conductors.
However you suggested everything should be bonded and I merely asked how you
bond a choke.

Also the NEC as well as other codes prohibit tying neutral and safety (green
wire) together. Two cases I called out in my four different parts of the
system. So no you do not tie all grounds together.

Furthermore I think the whole issue of grounding is exacerbated by the
overuse and incorrect use of the word 'ground'. The Brits prefer to use the
word 'earth' which helps a little. I would prefer to bury the word 'ground'
and replace it with context appropriate words like 'signal common' but that
isn't common practice.

73,
Fred, AE6QL 

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: reverse 12 volt supply

[Fred Townsend]

Dick:
Relays? Sure, easy to do. Power relays are often used in many kinds
equipment. They are sometimes called 'contactors'. They are either big and
clunky or small and unreliable. Which kind do you want and what are you
willing to pay?
73
Fred, AE6QL


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Richard Fjeld
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2015 1:01 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: reverse 12 volt supply

I would think you could wire a relay with a diode in the path to the coil so
that it would not operate if the polarity of the power leads are reversed.
That way, there would be negligible voltage drop when operated.

Dick,n0ce


On 9/13/2015 10:09 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> The base K3 is protected by an in-line diode that will not allow 
> reverse voltage to flow.
> The same is not true of the KPA3 where the reduction in voltage would 
> not be tolerable.
> The KPA3 is protected by a circuit breaker, but in this case did not 
> trip in time to prevent damage.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 9/13/2015 10:55 PM, James F. Boehner MD via Elecraft wrote:
>> Whew!
>>
>> Not a good feeling-but it can happen to any of us, regardless of how 
>> careful we are.
>>
>> Elecraft has been very good on suggesting helpful modifications to 
>> the radio.  Any thoughts? Perhaps an in-line diode?
>>
>> I'm not sure if that would result in a significant voltage drop-just 
>> a thought.
>>
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SP3 External Speaker!

[Fred Townsend]

Wayne:
Will the speaker housing have a place to slide the Powerwrex supply into the
back?
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
Burdick
Sent: Friday, September 11, 2015 7:19 PM
To: Mike K2MK
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SP3 External Speaker!

Note the different model number :)

More photos coming soon.

Wayne
N6KR


On Sep 11, 2015, at 4:41 PM, Mike K2MK  wrote:

> Hi Tyler,
> 
> I wonder if they are selling the Phonema brand product. The pricing 
> closely matches.
> 
> http://phonemaspeakers.com/altavoces/ksp3.html
> 
> 73,
> Mike K2MK


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S height with stand extended?

[Fred Townsend]

Was that measured top to bottom or bottom to top?

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
Burdick
Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2015 1:37 PM
To: ae...@carolinaheli.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S height with stand extended?

6.25" with the stand deployed, and about 4.5" with the stand folded against
the case.

Wayne
N6KR


On Sep 12, 2015, at 1:32 PM,  wrote:

> Hi All,
>  I'm designing a hutch for my operating desk and would like to know 
> the height of the K3S with the stand extended. The 4" dimension given 
> for the rig appears to be with the stand folded.
> 
> Thanks in advance. 
> Jerry Moore

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[Elecraft] OT Why Clean Boards?, Was KSYN3A mod problem

[Fred Townsend]

Was KSYN3A mod problem
David, you polar comment doesn't make sense to me so let's talk about the
real issue: Cleaning PCBs.

Why do we do it? Besides esthetics there are two main reasons. 1} To get rid
of flux which may be reactive with RF and reflow where it isn't wanted...
like into contacts, mechanical devices, and shaft encoders. 2} To get rid of
ionic compounds which may lead to circuit leakage and insulation breakdown.

For many years one of the better ways to clean boards involved Freon vapor
degreasers. They used a compound known as Freon TE which contained Freon and
ethanol. Then, as Wes mentioned, the EPA banded Freon. Without Freon, which
acted like the fire extinguisher Halon, ethanol  became explosive so
degreasers were banded. 

There are many types of fluxes. Most of the industry switched its machine
soldering to water soluble fluxes so only soap and water were needed for
board cleanup. Water was in some ways superior to ethanol because ethanol is
a non-polar solvent meaning it does not capture ions, the types of atoms
that support electron flow (see 2} above). However the most popular cored
solders used in hand soldering are still rosin flux based so alcohol is
still very viable for hand spot cleaning of PCBs. Ethanol and isopropanol
are both good flux cleaners but perhaps are not as good as some other
solvents as degreasers and of course they do not remove ions as water does.
It should be mentioned that both pure ethanol and isopropanol are flammable
meaning they burn with a dull blue flame. They don't burn like gasoline but
many gasolines do contain ethanol.

I have heard it said here to use only pure alcohol. That's fine if you are
drinking the stuff otherwise the reasoning for this proclamation is somewhat
nebulous. If you are letting alcohol or any other solvent evaporate on the
PCB you are NOT REMOVING FLUX. You are just moving the flux around. After
absorbing the flux in alcohol you need to remove it wet (i.e. as a liquid).
There are a number of ways for doing this but perhaps the easiest is to blot
with a paper towel. The alcohol with flux will be pulled in and trapped in
the paper fibers. I like compressed air too. Now back to purity issues. 

Using a 91/09 or 70/30 isopropanol, commonly referred to as rubbing alcohol,
adds water to the process. The water slows the evaporation rate, collects
ions, and makes it difficult or impossible to burn. However 50/50 dilutes
the alcohol so much that is no longer effective so it is not recommended. So
a little water is a good thing; too much you drown. Don't forget your board
has seen lots of water during the manufacturing cycle. Don't be afraid of a
little more water but of course don't operate anything without thoroughly
drying.

73, 
Fred, AE6QL

   
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David
Woolley
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2015 4:52 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KSYN3A mod problem

Ethanol and Isopropyl Alcohol are almost as polar as water.  That's why they
mix so well with water.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solvent

According to its Wikipedia entry, ethanol doesn't even mix well with heavy
oils.  Isopropanol is better.
--
David Woolley
Owner K2 06123

On 09/09/15 01:51, Fred Townsend wrote:

> Water is not a problem. You want the water to pick up the water 
> because alcohol is a non-polar solvent meaning it does not pick up the 
> ionic contamination. The water picks up the ions and alcohol picks up the
water.
> Conclusion rubbing alcohol containing water works just fine although 
> the



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Re: [Elecraft] KSYN3A mod problem

[Fred Townsend]

Gentlemen: 
Water is not a problem. You want the water to pick up the water because
alcohol is a non-polar solvent meaning it does not pick up the ionic
contamination. The water picks up the ions and alcohol picks up the water.
Conclusion rubbing alcohol containing water works just fine although the
50/50 cheap stuff now sold is not as good as the 70/30 or 91/09. Best way to
clean is to blot and or air squeegee the liquid off. Don't let it evaporate.
That leaves the sold residues behind. When finished cleaning if you still
have worries about water then bake out your board at 90 to 95 degrees C. 30
minutes is all that is needed.

73,
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
ae...@carolinaheli.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2015 6:15 AM
To: 'Ian White'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KSYN3A mod problem

When you purchase alcohol to use as cleanup it's best to get the highest
concentration you can get, else, there is a risk of it leaving a residue and
the evaporation rate is much slower. Most drug stores sell 91% or higher if
you ask/look for it. 60% is more common. Higher % is better for cleaning and
evaporates more cleanly.
Jer


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ian
White
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2015 4:09 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KSYN3A mod problem

>Don:
>Acetone should NEVER be used in electronic assembles. Acetone causes 
>both long and short term effects on various components including the 
>PCB. It effects epoxy, lacquers, paints, and plastics, particularly 
>polystyrenes
[...]
>73, Fred, AE6QL

Chemicals intended for use around electronic components, including PC
boards, have been formulated according to an industry-wide "Non Aggression
Agreement". This aims to ensure that chemicals such as flux cleaners and
contact cleaners will not damage the plastics that are used in the majority
of components. In return, component manufacturers try to avoid using
plastics that would be damaged by solvents in common use. 

Undiluted acetone is not part of that agreement because it's simply too
aggressive, as Fred describes. 

Although electronics-grade solvents are more expensive than bulk commodity
solvents like acetone, for peace of mind they are worth the extra cost.


73 from Ian GM3SEK


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Re: [Elecraft] KSYN3A mod problem

[Fred Townsend]

Don:
Acetone should NEVER be used in electronic assembles. Acetone causes both
long and short term effects on various components including the PCB. It
effects epoxy, lacquers, paints, and plastics, particularly polystyrenes
where its effects are almost instantaneous.  Pour some in a polystyrene cup
and watch it immediately cloud up.

>From Wikipedia:
Acetone is a good solvent for many plastics and some synthetic fibers. It is
used for thinning polyester resin, cleaning tools used with it, and
dissolving two-part epoxies and superglue before they harden. It is used as
one of the volatile components of some paints and varnishes. 

Polyester resin, also called gel coat, in case you don't know, is the stuff
PC boards are made of. Leave acetone in the paint department where it
belongs. I suggest alcohol, any kind as long as it pure, be used for
de-fluxing PC boards.  

73, Fred, AE6QL
-Original Message- 
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, September 7, 2015 2:43 PM
To: Nick Lelyak
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KSYN3A mod problem

Nick,

Yes, but it fails when it cools again - something is not making good
contact, and it may be residue from the cleaner.  I can't be certain of
that, but I would get that cleaner residue off and try again.

I would suggest that you remove the cleaner residue from the contacts with
acetone - apply it with a brush or cotton swab and immediately wipe the area
with a clean cloth of paper towel.  Do only a few pins at a time, and do not
let the acetone dry on the contacts or board.
You may want to mate and unmate the front panel and RF board several times,
cleaning between each to hopefully clean some of the 'goop' out of the
female header.

If you do not have gold pins on the connector to the front panel, consider
asking Elecraft for the gold replacement pins.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/7/2015 5:27 PM, Nick Lelyak wrote:
> Thanks Don, Guy
> appreciate yours quick response.
> I found out that problem disappears when front panel warms up to 37 C 
> and more.
> Looks like problem somewhere in FP. To clean main connector I used 
> Electronic Contact Cleaner. It may works not so good as Deoxit which 
> is not widely available in Canada. In any case to move on have to buy 
> Deoxit first.
> Thanks again
>
> 73, Nick VE3FJ
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keyout?

[Fred Townsend]

Jack:
A diode is a good idea and sound engineering practice. However if you look
at the FET schematic from the manufacture's data sheet carefully you will
see that the FET has a built in diode.  That's why they make such good relay
drivers.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jack
Brindle
Sent: Monday, September 7, 2015 7:49 PM
To: Jim Miller
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keyout?

If it were _my_ K3 (or K3S), I would add the very inexpensive 1N5400 or
1N5407 diode across the relays and eliminate the worry. Even reed relays can
produce quite a kick, and the low cost of the diode would do wonders for
peace of mind.

This same advice goes for antenna (and other) relays switched by the KRC2.

Jack Brindle, W6FB

 
> On Sep 7, 2015, at 5:40 PM, Jim Miller  wrote:
> 
> Thanks all. The 200v tolerance will handle the minimal energy produced 
> by the reed relay field collapsing.
> 
> 73
> 
> jim ab3cv
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2015 at 8:32 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
>> Why do you need to look at the schematic.  The K3S specification says 
>> it will handle +200 volts at 5 Amps, so those are the limits at the box
level.
>> No matter what the device data sheet for a device might indicate, 
>> there can be other considerations in the K3S design (or other 
>> 'boxes') that say you should observe the specifications for the 
>> entire unit rather than trying to re-engineer from the device
specifications.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>> 
>> On 9/7/2015 7:59 PM, Jim Miller wrote:
>> 
>>> I don't have schematics for my K3S but going by those for the K3. 
>>> The KeyOut line (RCA Jack) is driven by a IRF1630 which appears to 
>>> be out of production. Either than or it is a misprint and is actually a
IRF630.
>>> 
>>> If the latter it appears pretty burly. Can I assume it can drive a 
>>> pair of reed relays without suffering an inductive kick failure?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Touch-screen displays

[Fred Townsend]

How is that going to work? Are you commanding the radio or talking to
someone? Doesn't seem simple to me.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Richard W. Solomon
Sent: Thursday, September 3, 2015 12:05 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Touch-screen displays

Simple answer ... provide speech recognition. Lots of cars have it built in.

73, Dick, W1KSZ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
w...@msn.com
Sent: Thursday, September 03, 2015 9:44 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Touch-screen displays

There is yet another major problem with those touch-screen displays.  On
mobile installations, they are very distracting, therefore very dangerous.
If there isn't a labeled button for it, it isn't easy to use.  Also, long
presses to activate a function don't always work well when you are on a
bumpy road, which describes a lot of our major highway and city streets
these days, especially in southern Arizona.

Meanwhile, one of the big problems even on base-station rigs is that you are
still faced with MENU choices that can be several levels deep and completely
non-intuitive.  How much time do you want to spend just getting the radio
ready to listen in your preferred mode?  There can be literally hundreds of
choices, some labeled in someones tech-speak.  
(When was the last time you referred to mic input gain as multi/ch or
digital mode input level as dAtA DT GaIN - menu item 65 of 178?)  Or worse
yet, you select menu item 50, only to be told to press SUB to enable
changing it.

The KX3 isn't immune to this, either.  It sometimes requires that you press
and hold KHZ for 3 seconds to enable changing a setting.
I started operating FLDIGI in RIGCAT mode specifically so I could create
macros that would :
 [1] change the mode,
 [2] set rig frequency,
 [3] set display freq,
 [4] change the bandwidth,
 [5] display a message to the user,  and
 [6] start auto-tune
and do all this with ONE click of a labeled button.

Ron W7HD

Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
> I'm the same way, I work on complex stuff all day as well.
> In my other Expensive Hobby I keep a Reef Aquarium. I've seen a lot of
gizmos and gadgets come and go over the yearsand even I fell for a few of
them, but more and more I have come full circle and back to the tried
methods and equipment.
> I think many at times fall for the latest gizmo or craze, then we 
> realize
that it's not all it's cracked up to be.
>
> Touchscreens do have their place, but not on an HF rig (at least mine) 
> I
prefer real buttons and knobs.
> I bought the K-Line is because it was straightforward and not overly 
> (and
unnecessarily complex) and somethingthat I could work on if it breaks. At
the end of the day I want a radio that lets me hear the other guy, so I can
talk to him.
>
>
>
>
>
>From: Phil Hystad
>   To: Jerry Moore
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; John Fritze
>   Sent: Thursday, September 3, 2015 10:43 AM
>   Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Icom IC-7300
>
>> Personally I'm surrounded and use fancy tech all day long. When it's 
>> time to get on the air I want simple, straight up, and reliable.
>
> DITTO!
>
> 73, phil, K7PEH
>
>
>
>
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>

--
OMISS#9898 Linuxuser#415320 NAQCC#7587
My homepage: http://w7hd.net

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Re: [Elecraft] Probably a long shot here but I need a MH2 part

[Fred Townsend]

Hi Frank:
Just a guess, I really don't know, but Bob Heil has always been quite 
supportive of parts requests. Send him an email.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
kg9hfr...@gmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 2, 2015 9:41 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Probably a long shot here but I need a MH2 part

My PTT button is completely broken, who knows how… In any event, my MH2 shows 
Heil on the front and Elecraft MH2 on the back.  The PTT button is completely 
broken and I am wondering how I can get another PTT button.  The electronics 
inside the microphone is fine and works.  
Right now I use a pick from a guitar (pushing in)  to key it.

Frank KG9H

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] LiFePO4 replacement for internal SLA battery in K2

[Fred Townsend]

Steve I recommend you get a LiFePO4 charger. The two batteries may occupy
the physical space but they charge differently.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
inventor61 .
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2015 6:52 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [K2] LiFePO4 replacement for internal SLA battery in K2

Hello

My older K2, #771, is still in use after almost 16 years since I built it.

I have the internal sealed lead-acid gel cell battery option.  I have the
charge circuit slightly modified using the kit from ProAudio Engineering,
and I use their superb external power supply as well.

I get great results, but I know one day this battery (the 2nd I have had)
will eventually need to be replaced once again.

I contacted Batteryspace.com and asked them to fabricate a LiFePO4 pack that
matched the dimensions of the SLA in my radio, and to also include a
matching Elecraft pigtail to plug in to the PCB connector, with a protection
circuit board to prevent over discharge, shorts, and the like.

The SLA is rated at 2.9Ah and the new LiFePO4 pack is rated at 4.5Ah.  The
new pack also has the benefit of running at a slightly higher voltage for
most of the longer discharge curve.

One key operating difference versus the SLA is that you should not
continuously float charge the LiFePO4 pack.

The new pack is not inexpensive, but it roughly doubles both the discharge
period and the cycle life of the SLA.

The new pack has shipped and I expect to get it after Labor Day / Shelby
weekend.  The pack has to come via ground (to NC from W6) due to the hazmat
restrictions on such cell packs.

If you look at their website, the pack is now listed :: item CU-J1087 (prod
id: 9647).

I will report back here after I get the pack and try it out.  I am not
affiliated with this firm in any way.  Rather, I am reporting this
information as a courtesy to the other Elecrafters who recently mentioned
the need to replace their K2 SLA batteries.

73

Steve KZ1X
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Re: [Elecraft] P3TXMON question?

[Fred Townsend]

Jerry 0.707 works if you have a pure sinewave i.e. CW. However modulated
signals, i.e. SSB, are not sinewaves. I think he is looking for a true RMS
reading.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jerry
Moore
Sent: Friday, August 21, 2015 8:25 AM
To: 'Mike Weir'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3TXMON question?

Mike, to get RMS just multiple by .707

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike
Weir
Sent: Friday, August 21, 2015 11:07 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] P3TXMON question?

Good morning to the group, my P3TXMON just arrived the other day and today
it was installed and it works and looks great! I do have a questionthe
power reading is Peak-Peak is there a way to switch to RMS? If not is it
possible to make a request to have this looked at by the Elecraft folks and
possibly added to an update?
Mike Weir
VE3WDM
  
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Re: [Elecraft] Portable Power

[Fred Townsend]

Let's stamp out this bad idea. ALWAYS recharge as soon as possible after
use. The further you discharge a battery the more you shorten its useful
lifetime. This is true of all battery technologies. I know you have heard
clueless vendors say you want to completely discharge a battery before
recharging. Perhaps they are trying to increase sales. Furthermore, larger
lithium type batteries are not only damaged by total discharge, they also
become unstable when totally discharged. They are potential bombs if totally
discharged. Therefore the manufacturers embed a microprocessor and a
discharge mechanism inside the battery so you can not totally discharge
these batteries if you wanted too. Yes the so called 'gas gage' may show
zero charge remaining. Internally there is really 20 to 30% charge you can
not access. 

This questionable practice of total discharge was started with NiCad
batteries in order to equalize charge. It didn't work and shortened battery
life so it was soon abandoned. Unfortunately many dealers did not get the
message.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David
Bondy G4NRT
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 3:46 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Portable Power
Clip
Should they be left to run down and then charged or kept continuously on a
charger?  
Clip

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Re: [Elecraft] K3_no_xmit,_no_receive? FIXED! (for now)

[Fred Townsend]

Bob, I wouldn't be too quick to call it silver oxide. Silver chloride and
silver sulfide are more common than silver oxide and all are black and
conductive. One way to tell is silver oxide is removed with heat so a blast
with the heat gun (300C) will make it disappear.  (See
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silver_oxide)

73;
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
McGraw - K4TAX
Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2015 4:10 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3_no_xmit,_no_receive? FIXED! (for now)

To me it looks like the normal oxidation process that occurs due to reaction
between silver plating on the connector and oxygen in the air.  
The dark color is silver oxide.  {Some of you chemists can better explain
this effect.}

73 Bob, K4TAX

On 8/2/2015 12:06 AM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
 If you want to see intermittent connections...

 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Elecraft_K3/photos/photostream/lig
 htbox/692485818#zax/2040317344


 Note: The connection is purposefully disconnected to show the 
 corrosion inside the socket.

 And no, I don't live on a tropical island.  The average RH here the 
 desert of Tucson is less than 20%.

 On 8/1/2015 8:08 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
 With problems of this sort, it is very important to make sure that 
 the TMP connectors are FULLY seated. Otherwise it is possible to have 
 the center pin just BARELY making contact. This will cause an 
 intermittent problem to reappear at the most inconvenient times 
 possible (been there, done that).

 If all you did was to wiggle to fix it, then at least one of those 
 TMPs is NOT fully seated. You need to check them all again. Note that 
 most of the barrel beneath the fins is in the socket when they are 
 fully seated.

 Rotating the TMP just a little as you push in is sometimes useful.

 Good luck and may you not flounder around nearly so bad as I did  :)

 73, Guy K2AV



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Re: [Elecraft] West Mountain DC to Go with K3 (W6RKE)

[Fred Townsend]

Gerald I have seen this box successfully used with a number of rigs. There
are no technical problems. However I do have a tactical problem with power
poles hanging on the outside where they can snag or fall out. I prefer not
to use a rig runner but rather a smaller plug strip on the inside where it
is protected. 8 fuses plus and input fuse seems like an overkill.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gerald
Finn
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2015 1:16 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] West Mountain DC to Go with K3 (W6RKE)

This is my first question for this list.  I hope my format is acceptable.  

Has anyone used one of the West Mountain Radio DC to Go with PWRgate and
RIGrunner battery boxes with their K3?  

In advance, thank you
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Re: [Elecraft] QRP signals from Pathfinder probe (off topic)

[Fred Townsend]

Mike You can do the math for path loss. The formulas are well known. Perhaps 
less known is the rest of the story. The probe is using its high gain (dish) 
antenna, perhaps 20 db. Since it is a dish antenna it must be aimed! The probe 
is programmed to aim its antennas periodically since it can not be commanded to 
turn its antenna.
Back at this end, the Goldstone antennas have about 60db gain with 
cryogenically cooled noise figures of 1. I'm guessing the receiver sensitivity 
at around ---150 to -170 dbm using a very narrow bandwidth and correlation 
techniques similar to what is used on GPS receivers. Transmission flight of 
path is  six hours.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
a...@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2015 11:10 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] QRP signals from Pathfinder probe (off topic)

Heard last night on  Nova program that the transmitter on the Pathfinder Pluto 
probe was 10 watts.  Anyone have a clue as to the signal path loss at 3 billion 
miles and what levels the deep space dish receiving networks are dealing with?  
 Incredible that the data stream can be extracted from the noise. Mike  AC5P 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions capacitor size ?

[Fred Townsend]

Everyone will develop their own techniques for SMD. After doing thousands,
yes thousands, this is what I use. First, don't drink coffee for three days
before you work. It's called caffeine palsy. It's not compatible with SMDs.
Second, if the tweezers don't draw blood when they contact the flesh, they
aren't shape enough. Third, get some bottled rosin flux. Thin it 50/50 with
alcohol. Then paint the target area on the PCB with the 50/50 flux. Then
place the chip components in their target locations. The flux will keep
things in place for soldering. I use a combination of tweezers and an exacto
knife to align and nudge parts into place. I use the blade to hold down
pressure in the middle of the part while I solder. I use up to three
soldering irons with tips to much the part. Get on and off the part in 2
seconds which means you need a hot iron. It's called one touch soldering.
Set temperature, if you can to 750 to 800 degrees F. I work under a 10 power
scope switching to 20x for 1x2 parts. 
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Hank P
Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2015 2:32 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 KBPF3 mod for LF questions capacitor size ?

Are these 0805 or 0603/0604  or even smaller  chips ?

Hank K7HP


Received my KBPF3 mod kit for LF today. Caps are very small.  This might
be my first SMD, at least this tiny, work.  With as big a magnify glass that
I can find I can see the caps and after some effort get them on top of the
existing caps but I can not get them to stay there.  I have tried every
small tweezers I can find, even very small ones from a little Swiss army
knife, no luck.  Any suggestions on how to keep them there would be
appreciated.  Thank you  73
Emory  WM3M

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FD report in high RF (K3 vs Flex 6xxx)

[Fred Townsend]

Jim hits a resonate cord. I do appreciate the League trying to keep costs
down but sometimes you get what you pay for.

Years ago I wrote the author of a QST published construction article
pointing out an error. He sent me his original schematic. QST had redrawn
his schematic using multiple ground busses using the pitchfork ground symbol
and thereby combining busses.  I wrote the editor explaining these errors
were doubly wrong since the EU bands the use of the pitchfork symbol for any
use other than a safety ground (green wire terminals). I got a reply
ignoring the fact the circuit was changed and stating they didn't follow
European standards. In fact they made their own standards. How about
adopting IEEE or some other standard electronic symbols?

If they are going to make their own standards then, they should not be in
contravention of existing standards. For instance QST frequently draws a
differential amplifier as an op amp. Granted the same ICs can be used for
either an op amp or a differential amplifier but use determines the proper
symbol and rarely are op amps (analog computing) used in ham radio. Other
inconsistences abound like using both square and triangles to represent a
linear voltage regulator. Make up your mind and stick to it.
Probably the most annoying abuse is the standard of drawing circuit flow
from left to right. QST draws schematics so they best fit on the paper. Not
for clarity. This makes understanding even more difficult but I do
appreciate the effort to economize.  

73, Fred, AE6QL


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ross
Primrose
Sent: Wednesday, July 1, 2015 12:12 PM
To: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 FD report in high RF (K3 vs Flex 6xxx)

On 7/1/2015 12:06 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
 Yes, ARRL Labs tests are damning, though you would never realize it if 
 you only read the text. When is ARRL going to assign technically 
 competent authors to these reviews?


Right after they stop taking advertising revenue from the reviewees (is that
even a word ;) )

73, Ross N4RP


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Re: [Elecraft] k3 switching supply

[Fred Townsend]

Marc I do RFI for a living. When I purchased my PowerWerx I made sure it was 
returnable if I found noise on it. I checked and found everything was well 
below published specifications so I retained the supply and have very 
successfully used it in the Sierras where there is virtually no man made noise 
which makes it sheer joy to operate. This unit was purchased before the model 
with LED displays was even available. 

Back in the days where commercial transmitters had scores of meters it was 
standard practice to shield those meters so RF would not leak out of the 
transmitter cabinet. I traced a problem in one HP unit to an unshielded LCD 
display. I suspect it may be the LED display itself in your PowerWerx that is 
causing your RFI. Personally I do not see the need of the meters when I can 
read the voltage on the K3 itself. After all it is the voltage at the K3 that 
counts. Not the voltage at the power supply.

73, Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Marc 
Veenemanno made
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2015 3:26 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: NE9U - Jasper
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k3 switching supply

Mine is 6 months old, the version with the LED display, and the moving birdies 
on 80 and 75 meters are so strong and so annoying that I turn the supply off 
and operate from batteries if I operate for only an hour or so.  I’m sorry I 
bought the PowerWerx even though it is good looking and a nice size for my 
small operating desk.

Apparently their quality control is a variable, just like my birdies.
—
Marc  W8SDG

 On 6/16/2015 1:22 AM, NE9U - Jasper wrote:
 I was about to order a switching supply for portable/dxpedition use and 
 thought the one on elecraft site must be a good one, but i see it is getting 
 poor reviews on eham.net for RFI/noise generation issues.
 
 anyone have suggestions for a good quiet k3 switching supply?
 
 scott  ne9u
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KXV3B install problems

[Fred Townsend]

Wayne I realize you are a small company but you cast a big shadow. We are like 
the six year old that is told he has to wait to Christmas to open the packages. 
Can't wait.
73, Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
Sent: Jun 12, 2015 11:08 AM
To: Udo Langenohl - DK5YA dk...@dk5ya.de
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 KXV3B install problems

Hi Udo,

No one would ever be black listed, etc. We're just ramping up on multiple 
products and options simultaneously, and there may be some minor delays on 
specific items. 

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Jun 12, 2015, at 12:52 AM, Udo Langenohl - DK5YA dk...@dk5ya.de wrote:

 Lucky you are, Emory. I've orderend a KXV3B replacement almost 3 weeks ago 
 at Elecraft since my former KXV3A has issues with the pin diodes. 
 Unfortunately I've heard nothing from Elecraft since. I've got my order 
 confirmation immediately, item on stock, usually sent within 1-5 days. 
 Silence. Asked 2 times by email, no reply. That never happened before with 
 Elecraft and I'm some sort of pissed recently because I'm sittin' here with 
 a deaf KXV3A that bothers my EME work on 144.
 
 I'm I alone or am I black listed?
 
 Strange, '73 Udo, DK5YA
 
 Am 12.06.2015 um 02:06 schrieb ejk...@gmail.com:
 One more quick follow-up.
 The new KXV3B works great, especially on 6 meters and just in time for
 this weekends contest.
 Thanks again... 73
 Emory  WM3M
 
 
 -Original Message- From: ejk...@gmail.com
 Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2015 7:23 PM
 To: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 KXV3B install problems
 
 Thanks to Jim and Drew for the help.
 I talked to Elecraft support.
 I tried bending the pins, loosening the side and back panels, pins were
 just
 too long.  With the KXV3B lined up and in position, and with the pins
 behind
 the header, the pins touched the main board.
 Support said it was ok to cut the pins so I cut tiny bits off till it would
 go in the header.
 If the back was off it would probably go in easily but just too many little
 screws, nuts etc. to do that.
 Also, I think it would help if there was an instruction sheet just for us
 who upgrade from the KXV3A/KXV3.
 Now to load the new firmware..  thanks and 73
 Emory  WM3M
 
 -Original Message- From: Jim Brown
 Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2015 4:12 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 KXV3B install problems
 
 On Thu,6/11/2015 12:11 PM, ejk...@gmail.com wrote:
 Having problems with install of the KXV3B upgrading from a KXV3A.
 The pins are two long on the KXV3B, with BNC connectors up as far as
 they will go in the rear slot?
 I tried putting the pins in tilting the board with the BNC connectors
 not out of the slot, it was too much of an angle, they will not go in?
 I guess I can cut the pins shorter on the KXV3B but wanted to check on
 that first.
 Any help would be appreciated.
 
 I also had a very hard time with it, and ended up driving down to the
 factory to let them do it. They let me watch the bench tech, who had it
 installed in a few seconds.
 
 I had to do my second K3, so I had him show me. There are three keys to
 doing it, for me, at least.
 
 1) in addition removing the top cover, also remove the side panel. It
 makes it much easier to see when the pins are aligned with the socket,
 and to get your fingers in there.
 
 2) Begin by bending the pins slightly with a good pair of long
 needle-nose pliers (toward the rear panel. It doesn't take much -- 10-15
 degrees at most.
 
 3) Now, insert the BNC connectors through the opening. If you've bent
 the pins enough, they'll be close enough to the socket that you can push
 them in to mate. If you haven't bent the pins, they will be on the front
 side of the socket.
 
 73, Jim K9YC
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 Message delivered to u...@dk5ya.de
 
 
 -- 
 **
 Webs by DK5YA:   *
 http://www.mmmonvhf.de/  [editor]*
 http://www.vhfdx.de/ [owner] *
 http://www.palekastro.de/[owner] *
 http://www.solweb.de/[owner] *
 http://www.spessartwetter.de/[owner] *
 **
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Official word needed (:-)

[Fred Townsend]

I think Wayne has already explained it should always be uppercase.
73
Fred, AE6QL


-Original Message-
From: Rose elecraftcov...@gmail.com
Sent: May 31, 2015 1:50 PM
To: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com, Elecraft Reflector 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net, Eric Swartz e...@elecraft.com
Subject: [Elecraft] Official word needed (:-)

Have noted some confusion on the reflector

Should I use an upper or lower case S when embroidering items for the
new K3s / K3S ?

73

Rose - N7HKW elecraftcov...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] P3: VFO Cursors in WF

[Fred Townsend]

Sounds like a great idea. That would be a great aid for teaching on the GOTA 
station.
73, Fred, AE6QL


-Original Message-
From: Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net
Sent: May 30, 2015 8:09 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] P3: VFO Cursors in WF

Would there be any support for a P3 option to display the VFO cursors in 
the waterfall area?  The WF is mainly what I watch, I can see signals 
there that I'd never find in the spectrum display [and sometimes can't 
hear either :-)].  Admittedly mainly in contests, I will find a trace in 
the WF area, I'll try and put the VFO over it, I usually miss a bit if 
he's gone for a few moments, and with 150 or 200 Hz BW, I'm usually not 
close enough to hear him when he comes back.

FWIW:  I use the monochrome waterfall option, I don't have any idea how 
this might play out for folks with normal color vision ... could be way 
off base with this idea.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
- www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power switching

[Fred Townsend]

-Original Message-
From: James Wilson w4rk...@gmail.com
Sent: May 13, 2015 8:11 AM
To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft]  K3 power switching

A fused crowbar circuit is so easy to build and such
great protection, it should be in every 12 volt (13.8)
supply lead.

I use one built into a plastic project box with Power
Poles on each end.

Even though many things (including the K3) have a
built-in crowbar, the redundancy doesn't hurt and
helps me sleep better. :-)

Jim - W4RKS
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power switching.

[Fred Townsend]

Alan by now you know the offending parts are located on page 3 of the RF Board. 
Perhaps taking their queue from QST Magazine they go against convention and 
flow power from right to left so look on the right side for the power entry. 
Also because these components are supplied as part of an assembly their part 
numbers are not individually shown.  

As for what type parts I do not have the assembly before me. Check with 
Elecraft for verification of what I list. The part information is my best guess 
and is provided to assist you in locating the defective parts. Use at your own 
risk. Digikey will also lead you to the manufacture's data sheets and give you 
a picture of what you are looking for.

Fuse F1 similar to Digi-Key Part Number 20LR600SU-ND  Thermal fuse
Zener D28 similar to Digi-Key Part Number 497-6686-3-ND  Manufacturer's # 
BZW50-15

One more note. The schematic shows a zener diode. However the part number is 
actually a Transient Voltage Suppressor (TVS). These are slightly different 
parts.

73,
Fred, AE6QL
See more comments below:

-Original Message-
From: G4GNX g4...@theatreorgans.co.uk
Sent: May 13, 2015 4:29 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power switching.

Forgive me Fred, but so far I've not been able to locate those components on 
the schematics. Do you know which page they're on?

It's also possible that the zener had failed previously, so this time it 
didn't cause the fuse to trip. On the other hand, what sort of fuse is it, 
mechanical, thermal or electronic? 

Thermal, self resetting

As we all known, chips are the fastest 
fuse on multiple legs and given a gross voltage overload, I doubt that a 
mechanical or thermal fuse would be fast enough.

The normal failure mode for the TVS is shorted. Therefore I doubt it was 
already failed. The fuse is another matter. They have a soft failure mode which 
is hard to detect.

I'd prefer to see a full-blown crowbar circuit at the start of the power 
circuit and of course the same in the PSU although I do admit to having 
defeated a crowbar once.

This is pretty much a full blown crowbar circuit except it is self resetting 
and it does not disconnect the source. Also the rest of the circuit is very 
robust and has voltage regulators which protect the critical circuits.

 I'd built a 12V 10A variable PSU which would go up 
to 15V before the crowbar tripped in and the regulator then saw the overload 
and shut the output down. For some reason I had connected the PSU across a 
car battery and then absent mindedly increased the PSU voltage past 15V at 
which point the crowbar shorted the output, but of course car batteries 
don't care about that, so considerable current hit the crowbar and destroyed 
it! No other damage, so I replaced the thyristor and learned from the 
experience. :-)

73,

Alan. G4GNX

-Original Message- 
From: Fred Townsend
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2015 7:36 AM
To: G4GNX ; Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power switching.

Alan the power circuit on the K3 is very robust and is protected from over 
voltage. There is a 15 volt zener that should trip a self resetting 6A fuse. 
It may be that zener over heated and shorted but even so there should not be 
smoke.

I agree your psu should be set so it can not exceed 14.8 volts.

73
Fred, AE6QL 

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Re: [Elecraft] 2-30 MHz Transmit?

[Fred Townsend]

A longer version of EME? No it stands for Military Amateur Radio Service.
Before fiber optics made overseas calling cheap most US overseas bases had a
MARS station to facilitate phone patches to the dependents. Now they are
mostly an emergency backup or auxiliary.  
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of web.de
Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2015 1:53 AM
To: mzil...@roadrunner.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 2-30 MHz Transmit?

Hello,

Just for me as a Kraut, what is MARS?

Christian

Von meinem iPad gesendet

 Am 06.04.2015 um 19:04 schrieb Matt Zilmer mzil...@roadrunner.com:
 
 Hi Jay,
 
 I use my older K3 and a newer one on MARS frequencies.  The KX3 is 
 used as a MARS ECOM / mobile unit with the KXPA100 amp.
 
 The K3 has a TX donut hole around the 8.2 MHz IF.  I think TX is 
 locked out from 7.5 to 9.0 MHz (if memory serves).  The KX3 has no 
 such restriction, being a Zero IF transceiver.
 
 Elecraft customer support can assist you with the unlock programs 
 needed.  You may have to supply your MARS credentials, but I'm not 
 sure how that is handled today.  It's been a while since I unlocked my 
 radios here.
 
 Except for the K3's IF range, I've found no problems with TX and RX 
 from around 2.8 MHz to 25 MHz.  KBPF3 use is recommended though, so 
 that you have enough gain between ham bands.  Otherwise, the 
 sensitivity falls off in between bands.  Note: There is very little 
 MARS / SHARES activity above 20 MHz.
 
 I'm also using the KX3's 2m module to work an above-and-below MARS VHF 
 repeater split, plus the odd set of simplex frequencies NMCM has 
 around 2m.
 
 Again, from memory, Elecraft specifies performance inside the ham 
 bands.  I don't believe there are any published specs for general 
 coverage.  I haven't found any problems with between-band operation - 
 plenty of sensitivity and dynamic range, etc.
 
 73!
 matt W6NIA / NNN0UET
 
 
 
 On Mon, 6 Apr 2015 09:37:12 -0700, you wrote:
 
 Can someone furnish the exact unlocked or MARS transmit frequency 
 specifications for the K2, KX3 and K3?
 
 
 
 I think some of these radios may have gaps - due to RF filtering, IF,
etc.
 
 
 
 Also, what about the unlocked transmit specs for VHF in these radios?
 
 
 
 Thanks,
 
 
 
 Jay
 
 W6CJ
 
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 Always store beer in a dark place.  -R. Heinlein
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Ham enthusiast arrested

[Fred Townsend]

Yes Christian. Because of the roofing filters it was necessary to include a 
Jacobs Ladder for maintenance.
Also, the dual peddles (as opposed to paddles) double up for ambidextrous QLF 
CW.

73, Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of web.de
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2015 3:33 AM
To: drewko
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ham enthusiast arrested

Hello,

Jacobs Ladder? Great! I'll have it!
Where can I order it?

This will help me in daily work!

73 Christian

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

 Am 02.04.2015 um 00:24 schrieb drewko drew...@verizon.net:
 
 The retro styling of the K6 is really something--  those massive knife 
 switches on the front panel!
 
 Can't wait to see the matching 5 KW dummy load/Jacobs Ladder...
 
 73,
 Drew
 AF2Z
 
 
 
 
 
 
 On Wed, 01 Apr 2015 13:54:48 -0700, you wrote:
 
 Super secret documents now reveal that Elecraft intends to skip the K4 and 
 K5 and move straight to the K6. “Twice as big as the K3 with twice the 
 knobs, and really big screws!” the design team said in a draft announcement 
 scheduled for release in a drought-stricken central California town on April 
 18th. “Huge…really huge,” one observer with inside knowledge said while 
 emphasizing the K6 will be water-cooled and peddle self-powered with enough 
 reserve to power several other devices simultaneously including an optional 
 ham-equipped self-driving autonomous Tesla specially designed with 
 Levitation Mode for those occasions when you just need a 500 foot legal 
 limit perch to break through that pile-up with Asiatic Russia. The same 
 source produced patent applications from Apple to include an entire remote 
 system for the K6 on the soon-to-be-released Apple Watch. “Imagine,” he 
 said, “working DX from your wrist!” 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] HP 8921 problems

[Fred Townsend]

Niel:
I think electrolytics are a good guess. Also selenium rectifiers but I don't
think that model uses them. 
The problem is aluminum electrolytics are not made anymore. You can
substitute polymer electrolytics but while they are electrically
interchangeable they are not form-fit interchangeable. Sometimes it takes
some mechanical rework to fit them in. 
I have seen aluminum electrolytics on the surplus market but they will be
old and unreliable. Your best bet is the polymers. You'll find them at
Digikey, Allied, and the like. 
73
Fred, AE6QL
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Niel
Skousen
Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2015 2:00 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector; QRP-L Mailing List
Subject: [Elecraft] HP 8921 problems

Good Afternoon All,

I have an HP 8921 Service monitor, and when I powered it up today, it worked
for about 5 min...  then the power supply started to sag, the display
crashed, and I powered down.

Any one have any experience with HP8921 service ?Seems like the power
supply overloaded, and I can smell the smoke  8-(   but I cant see anything
obvious inside (eg puff'ed up / split electrolytic cap's in the power supply
etc)  Its been off for several months after a move.

Anybody with idea's or suggestions, please drop me a note off line

TIA

Niel
WA7SSA
nskousen (at) talisman-intl.com
nskousen (at) ecsecurityinc.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 voltage indicator

[Fred Townsend]

Graham:
I think what Joe and others have tried to tell you is your power lead
represents a variable and until you properly account for the variable
voltage drop in your power lead comparison is meaningless. 
You say power lead appears to be OK. Appears??? How did you come to that
conclusion? If you placed your hand on the cable and said it is not hot and
therefore concluded the cable appears OK you have again missed the point. At
low voltages (and high currents) the quality of the cable (and connectors)
is determined by the voltage drop. 
Additionally the voltage read on the front panel is read through a poly fuse
which has a voltage drop that is greater than the voltage seen by the 100
watt amplifier which is alternatively feed through a 22 amp circuit breaker.
The current that passes through the poly fuse is further regulated down to 5
volts so the voltage drop across the poly fuse is immaterial but it does
represent an insignificant error that the 100 watt amp does NOT see. Ergo
where you measure your voltages is all important to your pass/fail
calculations.

What to do? Measure the voltage at your power supply and then again at the
K3 circuit breaker. If the difference is more than 0.5 volts I would use a
heaver power lead.

73,
Fred, AE6QL 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of G4FNL
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2015 4:24 AM
To: 'Robin Moseley'; 'Elecraft Reflector'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 voltage indicator

Guys

I may need to re-enforce my power lead and connections - but they appear OK.


What I was asking was what does the voltage display indicator show on your
K3 - when compared to mine?  I have since understood that the voltage drop
that I see (at the 3 power settings mentioned) is about normal..

73 Graham G4FNL


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 power supply brick

[Fred Townsend]

Lynn:
Probably a bad idea. The so called computer bricks are designed as charge
pumps to drive another power converter. As such they are not necessarily
clean or well regulated.

73, Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Lynn
W. Taylor, WB6UUT
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2015 12:26 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 power supply brick

Has anyone tried a 12v brick like most laptops use for their KX3?

Comments one way or another??

Thanks -- Lynn
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Re: [Elecraft] [Antenna launcher

[Fred Townsend]

Gary I'd like to 2nd your comments and add a few of my own. 

Re tennis balls I add sand and it's easy and cheap. 

You can always bore-sight your target but I added a sight to my blaster. Now
I am one shot, one kill.

If I have to shoot very close to my target tree, because of nearby real
estate like a power line or fence, I lay on my back and shoot near vertical
over a 100' tree.

I have found, for fun and games, a filled 8 oz plastic water battle works
well. It's the same diameter as a tennis ball. It makes big splash on
impact. Gets rid of annoying dogs too. You don't need to hit them. Just
close enough to splash.

73,
Fred, AE6QL
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gary
Smith
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2015 1:54 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [Antenna launcher

Nice web pages. 

I discovered a couple of things that to me are important when it came to
launching these projectiles to get wires over the tops of trees:

- A heavier weight is better than a lighter one such as a tennis ball when a
50 pound fishing line is attached, because a light weight object will get
hung up on branches and the inertia from a heavy object falling to earth
will bore its way straight through the branches and leaves. I painted the
white PVC with red spray and on one I used red/white reflective tape. This
makes it easy to find where it's landed in both summer and winter.

I ended up using 50 pound test monofilament line because the amount of
branches I have to contend with end up being enough friction resistance that
I was breaking lighter line. With the 50 pound test line I can bring my WD
1A telephone wire up and through the branches in one attempt. 

- a long barrel is far preferable to a short barrel because the addition of
the eye on the end of the barrel prevents the line from flailing as it is
being expended. If you try throwing a fishing line without a pole  the eyes
to guide the line coherently as it's being expended, you will not throw it
far. Attach eyes to a broomstick  lightly toss  it will go much farther.
The eye is a must if you want distance. 

- In addition, a longer barrel will give you a greater distance, just like a
rifle will shoot farther than a pistol with both using the same ammunition.

- When putting the PVC spud in the barrel, the line  swivel end goes in
first, otherwise the drag from the line will make the projectile and invert
on the way up spin like a top. That can be problematic when coming down as
you don't want it to get hung up on top branches and if it's spinning like a
propeller, it will hang up sooner than later.

FWIW, With no line attached I can shoot a 4 long projectile well over 1/4
mile of water without touching water. With the line attached such distance
is quite impossible thanks to the drag, even with the eye in place. 

I figured I'd mention this tool here because of so many people on the
Elecraft reflector enjoying remote operations with their QRP gear, this will
help tremendously with the antenna end of things.

73,

Gary
KA1J

 On Mon,2/9/2015 12:07 PM, Gary Smith wrote:
  To get a wire over the tallest tree on the first attempt and that 
  includes a Redwood, look at what I do at the bottom of my QRZ page. 
  I got the idea from a QST article a few years ago and then built on 
  the idea.
 
 http://www.antennalaunchers.com/antlaunching.html
 
 When I first moved to CA in 2006, K2RD brought one of these over to 
 rig my 80M dipole. His first shot cleared the tallest redwood on my 
 property by at least 25 ft. That tree is about 180 ft tall.
 
 Here's another useful launcher for lower heights -- up to about 100 ft. 
 Buy it with the Zebco reel and attachment, and 10-12 oz throw weights.  
 You could use your own weights (fishing sinkers, for example), but 
 these throw weights are brightly colored cordura bags that make it 
 much easier to find on the ground after you've thrown them. My Chicago 
 club owns one that we used on Field Day and that was loaned to members 
 to rig their antennas.
 
   http://www.sherrilltree.com/Big-Shot-Standard-Kit#.VNkWwCvF_wk
 
 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 USB--Serial Names OT, Kinda

[Fred Townsend]

Have you looked in Windows 'Device Manager'?

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of James 
Bennett
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 8:32 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 USB--Serial Names OT, Kinda

Hi folks,

Looking for some help identifying the USB—Serial adapter names on Windows 8.1. 
Here’s the situation: I have a KX3 and a K3. Each has it’s own USB—Serial 
adapter from Elecraft. These USB guys plug into my iMac. I run the K3 on the 
Mac side of the machine, and the KX3 under VMWare Fusion and Windows 8.1 on 
“the other side”. On the Mac side I use MacLogger DX (MLDX), FLDIGI, and 
WSJT-X. When I configure the radio connection, MLDX knows the “names” of each 
adapter. the one for the K3 is A8003Ssu and the KX3’s adapter is A501XNHZ. On 
the Mac side, it is easy to determine which adapter is associated with which 
radio. 

However, on the Windows side, it is not an easy matter at all. Nowhere can I 
find any place where it shows the names of these two adapters. And the reason 
why it is a problem is thus: If the K3 is not “connected” to either MLDX, or 
WSJT-X, or FLDIGI on the Mac side and I bring up Windows, I often get both 
adapters available to me under Fusion. If I attach the wrong one to my apps on 
the Windows side, things are ugly and take a while to correct.

Is there some way, either with Windows itself, or with VMWare Fusion to see 
these device names? 
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Re: [Elecraft] Battery back-up system for multiple rigs

[Fred Townsend]

Don and Tony:
Diodes will get the job done but notice the heat sinks on them. They waste a
lot of energy as heat. I also read you have a single charger. I hear no
mention of fusing. Fusing is a good idea but must be done very carefully.
All of these issues are complicated by the placement of the diodes. 

There are specifically designed 'smart' systems out there to do exactly the
job of safely sharing and charging batteries similar to the systems Jim,
AD6CW has suggested. If you lack experience in this area I highly recommend
to you check them out. They offer smart systems that will safely shut things
down using FETs to share and control. The FETs have much, much lower losses
so in this case the ones with diodes and big beefy heat sinks are not your
friend. The also feature both over voltage and under voltage alarms. This
saved me when a power supply regulator shorted. 

73,
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2015 4:21 PM
To: N2TK, Tony; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Battery back-up system for multiple rigs

Tony,

There is no problem connecting batteries in parallel *if* (and only if) they
are the same capacity, manufacturer and age.

If the batteries are not identical, isolate them with diodes so one does not
draw current from another battery.  You will suffer the diode voltage drop
in the output voltage.  The diodes must be capable of carrying the full
maximum current load for all the rigs that will be operating at the same
time.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/22/2015 2:47 PM, N2TK, Tony wrote:
 Looking for some advice. Trying to help out a friend who is setting up an
 emergency communications system for the Hams in their condo group.

 They have several marine batteries they want to tie in parallel so they
can
 run multiple rigs,  K3's plus UHF/VHF for extended periods. They have a
 charger for the batteries. They use the 12V off the batteries to a
 distribution box for the 12V equipment.

   

 Questions:

 -  What is the best way to isolate the equipment from the
batteries
 if something happened to the battery (ies).

 -  Is there a way to isolate the batteries from each other if
 something happened to one battery so it didn't draw down the other
 batteries?

 -  Am I missing anything else that should be done for safety of
the
 equipment, batteries and the operators?

   

 Tnx

 N2TK, Tony

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 cleanest signal possible

[Fred Townsend]

Wayne all I can say is wow! I knew the K3 was good but I had no idea it was
that much better. Let's hope the other manufactures adopt the most sincere
form of flattery... they copy the K3. After all that benefits all listeners.


My question relates to Matt's use of a battery booster. In theory this
allows the K3 to use maximum feedback and therefore have an even cleaner
signal. However my experience with battery boosters, not necessarily the one
Matt uses, is they are dirty in terms of electrical noise. The lower the
input voltage the dirtier they get. What is the K3s sensitivity to power
input noise. In short is the battery booster concept a net gain in terms of
spectral purity?

73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
Burdick
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2015 9:22 AM
To: Kjeld Holm
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 cleanest signal possible

Hi Kel,

The K3/100's phase noise and ALC artifacts are so low at all power levels
that you shouldn't need to finesse this. I would select power level based on
what you want to get out of the amp.

See W9YC's study of transmit phase noise and keying bandwidth of various
transceivers:

http://audiosystemsgroup.com/TXNoise.pdf

73,
Wayne
N6KR 


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Re: [Elecraft] Buggy software OT

[Fred Townsend]

I think there is a big difference in flight software. In Boeing airplanes
the pilot is assisted by software. In Airbuses the pilot is allowed to fly
the airplane if the software thinks he/she is qualified. There has been at
least one airbus crash blamed on software and several other questionable
crashes. 
Unix has a dam-it key. (Dam it let me do this even though you (the computer)
think it's wrong.) I bet the airbus pilots wish they had one too.

Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of ANDY
NEHAN
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2015 12:19 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Buggy software

Many moons ago I worked at a bank (software dept) and we had been running a
daily check reading program reading the magnetic line from a check and
sorting accordingly. Well this program read 600,000 checks a day - every
working day of the year (that's about 250) then after it had been running
about 6 years it fell over one day - a particular combinations of checks and
the way they were batched. Now that sounds to me like a LOT of testing
(600,000 * 250 * 6 = 900 million). So to expect all software to be perfect
is not realistic. As to not using or trusting software - well whatever you
do don't fly as all modern aircraft are software platforms!!
Andy G4HUE

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

[Fred Townsend]

Peace Phil:
I don't doubt what you say. I'm sure you are familiar with Mr. Murphy. If the 
typo was made by document control and given to the RP (writer, tech, engineer, 
etc.) then that would explain the consistency of the error. Once created bad 
files are forever. Been there, done that.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Phil Hystad [mailto:phys...@mac.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2015 8:34 PM
To: Fred Townsend
Cc: Augie Gus Hansen; w7...@cox.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

A typo that was repeated through the document and made its way to being 
labelled on the PCB!!

That is some typo.  Check the docs and I doubt you will think them as a typo.  
Seems like a lot of opinions of people who think this is some other product of 
another company or a mistake.  But the document is still on the Elecraft web 
site and can be read.

The user guide has a date of 2006 and there is also a data sheet along with 
other mini-modules from Elecraft.  It is listed for $89.95.  I am convinced it 
was the older name of the W1.  Maybe some Elecraft person can confirm. 

PEH's iPad

 On Jan 13, 2015, at 8:19 PM, Fred Townsend fptowns...@earthlink.net wrote:
 
 Could it be as simple as a typo. Did you compare file dates?
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
 Phil Hystad
 Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2015 4:43 PM
 To: Augie Gus Hansen; w7...@cox.net
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1
 
 The document that I found on the Elecraft Web site was IDENTICAL to the 
 document for the current W1.  Except, it was called WM1.  Not only that, the 
 contents of the two documents were as close to identical as my brief read 
 through could determine.  And, not only that (ditto) but the photograph of 
 the WM1 PCB and parts layout was IDENTICAL to the W1 PCB and parts layout 
 with the exception of the label that said WM1.
 
 So, this is definitely an Elecraft product.  Not some Autek Research thing 
 nor some older Oak Hills WM-1 unless Elecraft totally renamed it and put 
 their name on the PCB board!
 
 I am guessing that the item was renamed from WM1 to W1 and maybe because 
 there was discovered a name conflict with this Autek or Oak Hills product.
 
 73, phil, K7PEH
 
 On Jan 13, 2015, at 4:36 PM, Augie Gus Hansen augie.han...@comcast.net 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 You might be confusing the Elecraft W1 with the older Oak Hills WM-1 (and 
 later model WM-2).  I don’t recall anything from Elecraft designated “WM1”.
 
 
 The WM1 Computing Meter is a product of Autek Research. It is a very nice 
 20/200/2000 watt power/SWR meter with selectable average and peak reading 
 capabilities. SWR and power are shown simultaneously on separate meters. 
 This is a very good quality meter that I have used for many years.
 
 For my QRP work I also have the OHR WM-2 wattmeter. It, too, is a 
 quality instrument, and it allows you to make accurate forward and 
 reverse power measurements on 10/1/0.1 watt scales. (SWR is not shown 
 directly - it must be calculated from the power readings.)
 
 Gus Hansen
 KB0YH
 
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 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 2015.0.5645 / Virus Database: 4260/8926 - Release Date: 
 01/13/15
 


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Version: 2015.0.5645 / Virus Database: 4260/8926 - Release Date: 01/13/15


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Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

[Fred Townsend]

Could it be as simple as a typo. Did you compare file dates?

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil 
Hystad
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2015 4:43 PM
To: Augie Gus Hansen; w7...@cox.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

The document that I found on the Elecraft Web site was IDENTICAL to the 
document for the current W1.  Except, it was called WM1.  Not only that, the 
contents of the two documents were as close to identical as my brief read 
through could determine.  And, not only that (ditto) but the photograph of the 
WM1 PCB and parts layout was IDENTICAL to the W1 PCB and parts layout with the 
exception of the label that said WM1.

So, this is definitely an Elecraft product.  Not some Autek Research thing nor 
some older Oak Hills WM-1 unless Elecraft totally renamed it and put their name 
on the PCB board!

I am guessing that the item was renamed from WM1 to W1 and maybe because there 
was discovered a name conflict with this Autek or Oak Hills product.

73, phil, K7PEH

 On Jan 13, 2015, at 4:36 PM, Augie Gus Hansen augie.han...@comcast.net 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 You might be confusing the Elecraft W1 with the older Oak Hills WM-1 (and 
 later model WM-2).  I don’t recall anything from Elecraft designated “WM1”.
 
 
 The WM1 Computing Meter is a product of Autek Research. It is a very nice 
 20/200/2000 watt power/SWR meter with selectable average and peak reading 
 capabilities. SWR and power are shown simultaneously on separate meters. This 
 is a very good quality meter that I have used for many years.
 
 For my QRP work I also have the OHR WM-2 wattmeter. It, too, is a 
 quality instrument, and it allows you to make accurate forward and 
 reverse power measurements on 10/1/0.1 watt scales. (SWR is not shown 
 directly - it must be calculated from the power readings.)
 
 Gus Hansen
 KB0YH
 
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Version: 2015.0.5645 / Virus Database: 4260/8926 - Release Date: 01/13/15

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Re: [Elecraft] Tascam US-122MKII $44.95 today only

[Fred Townsend]

Too late. Ad says all sold out.
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dennis
Griffin
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 3:20 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Mailer
Subject: [Elecraft] Tascam US-122MKII $44.95 today only

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/find/dealZone.jsp
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/find/dealZone.jsp

73 de Dennis KD7CAC
Scottsdale, AZ

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Version: 2015.0.5577 / Virus Database: 4257/8909 - Release Date: 01/11/15

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Utility help in England, please

[Fred Townsend]

A little advice from a Yank. Check with Elecraft. There may be free gold
replacement pins for your K3.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ted
G7BQM
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2015 12:22 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Utility help in England, please

Dear UK K3 owners,

This email is a request for some help in troubleshooting my recently
acquired K3.  It is an early model Ser No 104 and has been hardly used.  I
suspect I am suffering from front panel to RF board pin corrosion problems
since K3 utility fails to connect and comes up with the error 'connected
device does not appear to be an Elecraft K3' - this with both Mac OSX and
Win 7.  Despite this I get perfect comms with MacLogger DX running on Mac
OSX.

I would be most grateful if there is anyone in the area near Daventry or
Rugby who could spare a little time to plug their computer in to my K3 and
demonstrate wether it is me or the K3 who is crazy!!

If your shack is as disgusting as mine, (and are equally embarrassed by it)
we could always meet at the Rugby Amateur Transmitting Society, my local
club.

73, Ted G7BQM




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Re: [Elecraft] P3 and Other Windows Simultaneously

[Fred Townsend]

What is an Internet signal and how would that help?
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dauer,
Edward
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2015 11:01 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] P3 and Other Windows Simultaneously

Or get a dual monitor - two screens side-by-side on a single mount - if
space allows.  Several of the manufacturers make them.

Interestingly, a fellow at the Apple store here told me that the older Macs
could have two displays on the same screen one of which was a VGA input, but
the newer ones (as of three or four years ago) cannot.  He was a sales
clerk, not an engineer so far as I know, so I have my doubts.

When this question was last on the reflector someone suggested converting
the P3¹s SVGA output into an Internet signal.  Both Windows and Mac allow
simultaneous display of the browser and any other resident application.
Exactly how to do that conversion is beyond me . . . but if anyone knows
an easy way, please post it here . . .   Thanks.

Ted, KN1CBR




Message: 10
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 00:41:36 -0600
From: Richard Fjeld rpfj...@embarqmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 - Keyboard
Message-ID: 54a39aa0.3040...@embarqmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

Tony,
FYI, I use an A/B switch to share a monitor between my P3 and Computer.
I seldom use the computer while operating.
If I do, I can still use the P3.
Dick, n0ce

On 12/30/2014 5:22 PM, N2TK, Tony wrote:
 The reason I don't use an external monitor (I have two already) is 
that I  don't want to dedicate a monitor to just the P3. I am assuming 
that the SVGA  option still does not let you size the window and allow 
other programs to be  displayed on the same monitor, correct?

 Just want to verify in case things changed.



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Version: 2015.0.5577 / Virus Database: 4257/8846 - Release Date: 12/31/14


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Re: [Elecraft] 240V Line

[Fred Townsend]

It has been awhile since I have worked with the NEC but things haven't
changed that much for single phase. It has never been allowed for the
green/yellow lead to carry load current. Green and neutral must be the same
size as the current carrier even on a 240 circuit. Green and neutral may not
be circuit breakered. A 240 circuit may only be split (down to 120) at a
panel or sub panel and then each circuit must have its own circuit breaker.
120 volt circuits must have special plugs and sockets if breakered for at
more than 20 Amp. Panels or sub panels may not be placed in closets or
closely enclosed areas. (This is to avoid heat buildup.) Some areas are
requiring arc detecting or GFI interrupters on upgrades. If you install them
(generally a good idea) then place GFI/ARC type circuit breakers at the
panel. Do not place at load where RFI is likely to false trip. 
As warned local requirements may vary but this is sort of baseline stuff.
Nobody will fault you if you follow.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Brown
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2014 1:50 PM
To: Reflector Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 240V Line

On Wed,12/24/2014 11:41 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
 A lot of the older amps (Thunderbolt for example) had 120 V fans wired 
 from one hot to ground. I always wondered about that.

I think that used to be legal, but it is no longer, and it's very bad
practice.

The better ones (Ten Tec Titan, for example) run a 120V fan between one side
of the power transfomer primary and the center tap. It is now illegal for
the Green wire to carry load current.

On Wed,12/24/2014 11:13 AM, Phil Kane wrote:
 IIRC the latest code update now requires the separate neutral (white
 wire) to be run in all 240V circuits.  I did that in a 1969 when I 
 finished the basement in a year-old home!

You may be confusing a 120/240 outlet that has a four circuit plug (phase,
phase, neutral, and Green) and can serve both 120V and 240V loads, with a
240V outlet that has a three circuit plug and serves only 240V loads. There
is no neutral in a 240V outlet, and as noted above, it is illegal to connect
a 120V load between one phase and the Green wire (Equipment Ground).  That
120/240 circuit can feed both 120V and 240V outlets. A neutral IS required
to feed those 120V outlets.

73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 13.8 VDC power

[Fred Townsend]

Dick:
A few more notes. Outgassing is not a normal occurrence of lead acid
batteries. It occurs when there is substantial overcharge. That is why you
always use a regulator so outgassing doesn't occur. Second SLA stands for
sealed lead acid. These batteries are partially sealed to prevent
outgassing. They do have blowout plugs to prevent explosions. Finally there
are battery monitors available at reasonable cost. They will sound an alarm
if your battery voltage is too high or too low thereby giving warning that
something is not right. I also attach a 12vdc  LED light strip to my power
alarm. That way when the house lights go out I can still see the controls to
shut things down if need be.

73, Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2014 12:06 PM
To: Richard Fjeld; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 13.8 VDC power

Dick,

Yes, hydrogen outgassing is a potential problem, and the area containing a
normal lead-acid battery should not only be protected from sparks and
ignition sources, but should also be vented to the outside.

I would suggest that you look at a larger gel cell or an AGM battery.
If you use a normal lead acid deep cycle battery, you could enclose it in a
tight battery box (often used in RVs) which has a vent hose that you could
route outside.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/22/2014 2:51 PM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
 Wow, thanks to all for the greatly informative answers.  I gleaned 
 many good ideas from them.

 This is my concern; I am interested in protecting my K3 from damage by 
 not being shut down properly should a power interruption occur while 
 the K3 is operating. For this design, I'm thinking about a worst case 
 scenario; in transmit mode at 100 watts/20 amps, plus accessories on.

 I am concerned about Hydrogen gas while charging a lead-acid battery 
 here in the furnace room.  Since I don't need to operate by battery 
 power,  I'd like to know your thoughts about if a Gel-Cel battery of a
 9 amp variety would handle the 20 amp load until I could go to receive 
 mode and properly shut down?
 I haven't had any experience drawing that much amperage from a gel-cel 
 momentarily.  I don't know if the load voltage would be adequate to 
 keep the K3 alive.  I'd need to test it using an older style radio.
 I'm hoping someone has had experience related to this.

 Thanks in advance for comments,

 Dick, n0ce


 On 12/22/2014 1:31 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
 Is anyone floating a battery across their power distribution?

 Dick, n0ce



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Version: 2015.0.5577 / Virus Database: 4257/8787 - Release Date: 12/22/14

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Re: [Elecraft] re K3 timekeeping

[Fred Townsend]

Don:
I think there may be a design error here. First clock crystals of the
variety used in the K3 are dollar items in qualities of one. I have bought
them in 1000 piece quantities for 50 cents. They are available from many
vendors. Second the K3 design places a 33pf capacitor (C60) on the high side
of the crystal to ground. However the clock chip manufacturer (see the data
sheet at http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/PCF8563.pdf) suggests a 5
to 25pf NPO variable at this node. They also specify a maximum of 25pf on
the node so the 33pf fixed value is actually out of spec. Furthermore if the
33pf cap is not NPO or COG grade it will have a poor temperature
coefficient. This could easily explain the wide range of accuracy seen by
users.

I would hope that Elecraft would offer a 5-25 NPO trimmer upgrade. When,
properly trimmed, we should be able to get the same accuracy as that $10
watch.
73, Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2014 2:33 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] re K3 timekeeping

Because the Elecraft receiver is not designed to sync with those multiple
time signals, it is only capable of receiving them, and you can use them to
sync the time with the Elecraft RTC.
A receiver is not a watch!

The main difference is quantity of the precision crystals required to
maintain a few seconds per month accuracy that can be purchased. Timex can
easily purchase them at a low price based on an order of 10,000 or
100,000 or even 1 million.  Elecraft could only swing a deal on a purchase
quantity of 100 or 1000.  The quantity pricing difference is extreme.

The K2, K3, KX3 are known for having fine receivers, that does not mean they
are also precision timepieces.  The RTC is meant to be an aid to logging
when no other means is available.

When working in the home shack, use computer time or some Atomic Clock 
to provide you with accurate time.  When operating portable, set the
Elecraft clock to the correct time before your outing.  It will be
sufficiently accurate for logging purposes over the weekend event or even
the weeklong event.  Remember logging accuracy rather than precise time to
the nanosecond.
Alternately, wear your Timex (or whatever) and ignore the Elecraft gear
clock.  If I want to know the time, I instinctively look at my wrist, it is
a habit developed over many years.  It is much quicker and more reliable
than dialing up the time on any of my radios.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/27/2014 4:58 PM, Barry wrote:
 Don Wilhelm-4 wrote
 The K3 RTC depends on the crystal and the associated capacitors.  It 
 is not a precision device,
 So how come a $10 watch keeps better time than a $3K xcvr (that has 
 access to multiple time signals)?  :-) Barry W2UP


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Re: [Elecraft] USB-to-Serial cable

[Fred Townsend]

Jim:
By cable I think you mean USB to RS232 cable. Install the driver that comes
with the converter. Don't expect windows to know about your driver.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim -
KE8G
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2014 4:51 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] USB-to-Serial cable

Hi All,
I received a couple of cable from Elecraft today, and I am not having any
luck getting them to work.  I go into the device manager and it says a
driver has not been installed.  I tell it to update the driver, it goes out
to the Internet, but returns nothing.  Any ideas?

Right now, I am trying to get it to work with my Toshiba laptop running
Windows 8.

Thanks in advance,
Jim
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 fault at H44KW (no pwr high SWR)

[Fred Townsend]

Not to contradict the expert but in addition to the specified parameters I
would want to know the on resistance (Ron) and the gate threshold voltages
were the same before I would sub.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
Burdick
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2014 9:54 PM
To: wa9fvp
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 fault at H44KW (no pwr high SWR)

Sure, as long as the pinouts are the same, and the voltage and current
ratings meet your switching requirements.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Nov 1, 2014, at 9:16 PM, wa9fvp rep...@willcoele.com wrote:

 Here's a funny story.  Last week I ordered a KPA500.  Two days later a 
 nearby Ham dropped off his KPA500 that failed.  His K3 was showing 
 high SWR with no power.  He purchased his a year ago and didn't want 
 to pay the expense of shipping it back to the factory.
 
 I found a defective Q5 (see the TR switch schematic) on the Filter board. 
 Q5, an IPA50R399P is a 550v MOS Power Transistor.  My question is;  Q4 
 a similar device (an IRFSL9N60A) with almost identical specifications 
 except it's a 600V, MOS transistor.  Can I use it as a replacement for 
 an IPA50R399P?
 
 Jack WA9FVP
 Willco Electronics
 
 
 
 -
 Jack WA9FVP
 
 Sent from my TRS-80 :-)
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-fault-at-H44KW-no-pwr-high
 -SWR-tp7570161p7594358.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list 
 archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF Query

[Fred Townsend]

Folks let me set a few things straight. I have designed a few high stability 
time bases and I have done the lab work so I am confident of my facts.

First, you never want to use AC or bimetal thermostats for precision oven 
heaters because they are inherently noisy and ultimately unstable. Bimetal is a 
bang-bang controller and starts having short time stability troubles at one 
part in 10 minus 7. This type of controller may have a long term stability of 
10 to the minus 9 (which will be advertised) but you must have short stability. 
After all the timebase is for a radio, not a clock so any comparison to clocks 
(or coffee makers) is bogus. 

Second, there is no such thing as a perfect insulator. Even a vacuum  thermal 
bottle type oven will use energy. When the oven is warming from turn-on lots of 
energy is needed; not so much for maintaining a constant temperature. This is a 
classic trade-off. Do you have a big heater for fast turn-on or a small heater 
for precision? 

Third, on a level playing field an 'always on oven' will always consume more 
energy than a 'on demand' system. The claim 'always on' is more efficient is 
bogus. Unlike a race car, there is no startup penalty caused by inefficient  
acceleration. However, this may not be true of the oven power supply.

Fourth, a dedicated power supply for the heater is usually the bigger waster of 
energy. The dedicated power supply is another trade-off. Use a linear and waste 
a lot of energy. Use a switcher and generate noise. 

Fifth, California has a law that says standby devices (like that wall wort 
plugged into the wall but not otherwise connected) my not waste more than 3 
watts of energy. This applies to TVs that are plugged in but turned on. I don't 
think there is any enforcement for this law so I'm sure some violate it. 
Nevertheless manufactures don't want to be branded as energy hogs so most big 
manufactures comply. Also they do not want to have California only designs so 
the law is applied to all designs. All states and all counties benefit. Look at 
cell phone chargers where the light switchers are used instead of the heavy 
wall wort linear supplies. You thought it was to save weight?

73
Fred, AE6QL






-Original Message-
From: Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net
Sent: Oct 15, 2014 9:29 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF Query

Lynn,

That was a guess and probably way too high.  I have 3-year old 
46-inch LED flat-screen.  But also a home theater receiver rated to 
125w audio and two DVD drives, a VCR and satellite receiver.  So all 
the remote control power supplies do add up - to what? I do not know 
- haven't measured the total load.

But since the TV is on from 5pm-10pm and off the rest of the day it 
seems there would be some savings by disconnecting the ac power.  We 
have a six outlet strip which makes that simple.  It does reduce fire hazard.

On the other hand I keep my Astron station 12v supply on full time 
which supplies the OCXO, so I do not have any delay waiting for it to 
stabilize.  I have my ham gear on more frequently than the TV.

We make a pot of coffee (fresh ground) in the morning and turn-off 
the maker after it finishes.  Coffee pot draws quite big load keeping 
water and coffee pot hot.  And that only ruins the coffee.  We just 
reheat a cup in the microwave when we want hot coffee.  Do we save 
any power this way??  But the coffee tastes better :-)

73, Ed

---
From: Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT k...@coldrockshotbrooms.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3EXREF Query
Message-ID: 543d9e2c.9000...@coldrockshotbrooms.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

On 10/14/2014 2:47 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:
  Leave your TV plugged in but turned off and it still consumes about 50w.
You need to buy a new TV.  The new ones are under a half-watt when
plugged in but turned off.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
 Kits made by KL7UW
Dubus Mag business:
 dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] HF noise.....10 M

[Fred Townsend]

If memory serves me right there is a ICM band between 10 and 11 meters that 
would be a logical place for an welder.  Assuming they are using a power 
oscillator the signal could be quite broad band and unstable just like a 
microwave oven. It also sounds like a foreign design. I think a call to the FCC 
is in order.

Fred, AE6QL


-Original Message-
From: Dan Maase AC6DM via Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Oct 14, 2014 8:06 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] HF noise.10 M

These weeblies are all over the 10 meter band  here in northern Calif
Monday through Saturday; gone on Sunday.   Best I can find is that they are
radiated emissions from HF ultrasonic welders (used to seal plastic
packaging, emboss car mats, etc.)  They sound like they are a high power
oscillator which changes frequency during the welding operation; starting
high and decreasing in frequency as the weld is accomplished.  Such welders
are not supposed to operate in the ten meter band in the US, so I suspect
they are rogue, operating international.
Dan
AC6DM


Anyone have any idea what those weeblies are on ten meters?   They 
typically start high in frequency and flitter past the receiver then stop 
abruptly.  They sound like a very unstable oscillator,



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/HF-noise-30m-tp7593789p7593884.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] BNCs Enough!

[Fred Townsend]

Without sounding my horn too loudly I have servered on IEEE connector 
committees and been paid big bucks to solve the production line problems. 
Counterfet connectors is too mild a term. There is some real crap out there and 
your eyeballs won't be able to detect it. Things like finish and and spring 
tention problems can not be seen. I recall one particular connector that was 
causing a 2db measured loss over a prefered Kings or Amphenol connector. The 
imported brand X connector was available in both 50 and 75 ohm versions, both 
of which were unmarked. When actually measured with a TDR they both measured 62 
ohms.

Folks, life is too short to mess with S T U F F like this. Do you really have 
to touch the wet paint or believe the sign.

73, Fred, AE6QL


-Original Message-
From: Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net
Sent: Oct 13, 2014 12:49 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] BNCs

On 10/13/2014 10:42 AM, Sandy Blaize wrote:

 There is a lot of crap parts available at hamfests these days!  Be
 careful what you buy!!

Had cable problems with P3 when I first got it.  Bob, K6XX, at Elecraft 
and who I know well called me and said [only slightly tongue-in-cheek] 
they'd send me a replacement cable ... *if* I promised to cut the old 
one in small pieces and bury it at the bottom of our trash can so it 
never could appear at a ham swap. :-)  I did.

If you want connectors that fit, and that work all the time, you'll need 
to totally avoid the cheap stuff.  I use only Amphenol coax connectors.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2015 Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
- www.cqp.org



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Re: [Elecraft] BNC connectors for RG-8X Coax

[Fred Townsend]

There is good reason why power ratings are not stated. Ratings vary by 
frequency and particularly by VSWR. Using a tuner may improve the load seen by 
the rig but will also increase losses on the antenna side of the tuner.  Skin 
effect means only the outer 1% of the conductor is passing current. I would 
think twice about running more than 100 watts at HF or 50 watts at VHF and 
above through a BNC connector, never mind the coax. 

73, Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Walter Underwood wun...@wunderwood.org
Sent: Oct 9, 2014 8:50 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] BNC connectors for RG-8X Coax

BNC power handling is similar to UHF connectors. BNC connectors are rated for 
500V, same as UHF connectors. Amphenol does not specify contact resistance for 
UHF connectors. The full BNC specs are here:

http://www.amphenolrf.com/products/CatalogPages/BNC.pdf

wunder
K6WRU
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/

On Oct 9, 2014, at 8:34 AM, WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net wrote:

 I don't think you will have trouble with legal power.  I regularly run 1 KW 
 through RG8X without problems.  I did have some trouble running over about 
 400 watts with a Carolina Windom running RG8X but I don't know what was 
 shorting, the coax or the chokes or balun.  RG8X is the same outer diameter 
 as RG-79 so the RG-79 BNC will fit.  The impedance bump is so short that you 
 will not notice it at 6 meters or below.  If you are trying to run 
 microwave, you might have trouble buy the pin and socket are the same for 
 the RG-58 and RG-59 connectors. The insulation thickness is what makes RG-8X 
 have a higher rating than RG-58.
 
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
 K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
 
 
 On Thursday, October 9, 2014 8:01 AM, David Cole d...@nk7z.net wrote:
 
 
 
 Hi,
 Looking at the tech spec sheet I don't see a power rating?  Also
 remember these are 75 ohm connectors...  Anyone know what the max power
 you can pump through one of these are?-- Thanks and 73's,For equipment, and 
 software setups and reviews see:www.nk7z.netfor MixW support 
 see;http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/infofor Dopplergram information 
 see:http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/infofor MM-SSTV 
 see:http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/infoOn Thu, 2014-10-09 at 
 04:59 -0700, Dennis Griffin wrote: Sorry, here is a source for a connector 
 similar to what I believe you are seeking, Phil, except that it's for 
 LMR-200. The Tessco  TimesMicrowave sites also have good connector, and 
 coax, info.  
 http://www.newark.com/amphenol-connex/112597/rf-coaxial-bnc-plug-str-50-ohm/dp/99H4490?ost=99H4490
   73 de Dennis KD7CAC Scottsdale, AZ  On Oct 9, 2014, at 4:17 AM, Dennis 
 Griffin eagleeyeden...@gmx.com wrote:   I have ordered several 
 jumper/adapter cables made with RG174 from WiFi RF Expert. They have been 
 good quality. An example is a 24 RG174 BNC Male 90° to UHF
 Female for $12.29. He can custom make most anything an OM might want. RF 
 Parts is a source for various RF connectors  inline adapters.73 de 
 Dennis KD7CAC  Scottsdale, AZOn Oct 9, 2014, at 3:38 AM, Joel 
 Black w4...@charter.net wrote:Phil,When I need one, I 
 have been using the RF Industries RFB-1101-1P. These are solder-pin / clamp 
 connectors. I don't remember from where they were purchased.I 
 don't remember what put me on these. I use them indoors only from my KX3 to 
 an antenna switch and from the RX connector on my K3 to an antenna switch. I 
 also have a 25' piece of RG-8x with a PL-259 on one end and the BNC on the 
 other for when I go to the park and operate. I have not had any failures 
 with them; your mileage may vary. :)73,  Joel - W4JBB
 On 10/9/14, 12:18 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:  I am looking to use BNC (male) 
 connectors for RG-8X cable.  I have found a number of crimp style
 connectors but I am wondering if there are any other kind to consider.  Are 
 the crimp style the best for reasonable cost?My application does 
 not need to be weather protective -- all use indoors.Thanks, 
73, phil, K7PEH 
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Re: [Elecraft] Info needed on 'Crimping'

[Fred Townsend]

At the request of the Video's author, I am reposting this information here. I 
have trimmed the message for brevity.

 
--
 
A few pickups: 

1.Many of the connectors are color coded. In your case the color was yellow 
which translates to 12-14 or 10-14 AWG in some cases. Your crimper was also 
color coded to make the selection of the die easy. 

2.Your reference to spades should have been to 'faston'. Spades are the forked 
leads. Fastons depend on the proper friction and spring tension to work right 
which might have something to do with the failure of the fuse assembly. 
Incidentally glass fuses with cartridge holders should be avoided and are 
illegal in some applications. Likewise the green and yellow wire is defined by 
the EU as only for safety grounds (earths). It is OK to use for other 
applications in the USA but could get you into trouble in the EU countries. 

3.While not specified, eye connectors should be used with brass bolts with flat 
and/or lock washers so as not to distort the eye.
Best regards,

Fred Townsend

-Original Message-
From: Peter Pauly ppa...@gmail.com
Sent: Oct 7, 2014 11:49 AM
To: bill.va...@gmail.com
Cc: elecraft list elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Info needed on 'Crimping'

This is an okay introduction:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjSGCSwNuAg

For Anderson powerpoles, you'll want to watch something specific to that
connector.

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Re: [Elecraft] Ghost in my K3?

[Fred Townsend]

Sounds like a job for ghost busters. OK, maybe a bad contact pin. How old is 
your K3?
73
Fred, AE6QL


-Original Message-
From: Michael Eberle mtebe...@mchsi.com
Sent: Oct 4, 2014 3:46 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Ghost in my K3?

Ok, I just had something really strange happen with my K3.  I was 
listening to a strong signal and all of a sudden all the audio dropped 
out, and the S meter dropped down to nothing, yet the P3 still showed 
the signal.  Apparently a disconnect in the IF after the P3 output.  
Cycling power a couple times didn't help.  Then I pressed TUNE and it 
would not key the transmitter and the VFO-B area showed 0 watts.  After 
trying the TUNE button a couple times, all of a sudden it went back to 
normal operation.  Has anyone else ever had this happen?  What could 
have caused this, maybe a loose cable?

Thanks,
Mike
KI0HA
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Re: [Elecraft] Ghost in my K3?

[Fred Townsend]

OK then I think you have tin pins (not to confused with game a ten pins). 
Contact customer service for free replacment pins.

73
Fred


-Original Message-
From: Michael Eberle mtebe...@mchsi.com
Sent: Oct 4, 2014 4:03 PM
To: Fred Townsend fptowns...@earthlink.net, Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ghost in my K3?

I have had the K3 for about 5 years now.  S/N 2679.  And to clarify, I 
guess it did key the transmitter because the TX light would come on but 
it did not put out any power and showed 0 Watts on the display.  I have 
not had any other problems except for the headphone jack on the rear. I 
probably plugged a mono plug into it by mistake.

On 10/4/2014 5:52 PM, Fred Townsend wrote:
 Sounds like a job for ghost busters. OK, maybe a bad contact pin. How old is 
 your K3?
 73
 Fred, AE6QL


 -Original Message-
 From: Michael Eberle mtebe...@mchsi.com
 Sent: Oct 4, 2014 3:46 PM
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Ghost in my K3?

 Ok, I just had something really strange happen with my K3.  I was
 listening to a strong signal and all of a sudden all the audio dropped
 out, and the S meter dropped down to nothing, yet the P3 still showed
 the signal.  Apparently a disconnect in the IF after the P3 output.
 Cycling power a couple times didn't help.  Then I pressed TUNE and it
 would not key the transmitter and the VFO-B area showed 0 watts.  After
 trying the TUNE button a couple times, all of a sudden it went back to
 normal operation.  Has anyone else ever had this happen?  What could
 have caused this, maybe a loose cable?

 Thanks,
 Mike
 KI0HA




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Re: [Elecraft] Ghost in my K3?

[Fred Townsend]

Joe has it nailed. Just call customer service on Monday and give them your 
serial number and tell them you have the interminent pin problem. They will 
give your options. You may want to talk about other upgrades too.
73
Fred


-Original Message-
From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
Sent: Oct 4, 2014 4:55 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ghost in my K3?


Pins connecting the front panel to the main (RF) board.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 2014-10-04 7:51 PM, Michael Eberle wrote:
 Ok, it has cut out a couple more times.  Which pins are you referring to?

 On 10/4/2014 6:13 PM, Fred Townsend wrote:
 OK then I think you have tin pins (not to confused with game a ten
 pins). Contact customer service for free replacment pins.

 73
 Fred


 -Original Message-

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Re: [Elecraft] OT looking for a part number for a....

[Fred Townsend]

Jeff I doubt you will find any axial leaded part that is good to 500 MHz 
because the package inductance will roll off response below 500 MHz. However if 
you insist on axial leaded there are any number of 50.1 ohm metal film, axial 
leaded  parts available from Digikey www.digikey.com. Also Ohmite makes a 50.0 
ohm, 50 watt resistor, NI, in a to220 case that is pretty good. Also available 
from Digikey. You can look up your own part numbers with their online finder.

73
Fred

-Original Message-
From: Jeff Herr her...@comcast.net
Sent: Sep 13, 2014 3:47 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] OT looking for a part number for a

50 ohm non reactive 1/4 watt axial lead resistor maybe 1% or better.

I have a couple of old amphenol bnc 240 ohm terminators that I want to
repurpose to 50 ohm.

I am having trouble finding a non reactive part thats good up thru 500mhz.



Jeff Herr,  WW6L
4636 Kelton Way
Sacramento, Ca 95838
916.925.6089



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Re: [Elecraft] Help! Rescue me from stupid error!

[Fred Townsend]

Vic:
Sorry you passed the smoke test. Your mystery components sound like transient 
suppressors. They are not needed for normal operation. They are there to 
suppress lightning or other power line disturbances. To find out carefully cut 
out ZNR12 and clean up any ashes. Then replace the fuse and try the computer. 
If you are lucky the computer will run. Don't forget to change back to 120 VAC 
setting.

Good luck,
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Vic, K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com
Sent: Sep 9, 2014 10:23 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Help! Rescue me from stupid error!

I just did one of the dumbest things I've done since I tried to swim 
across the Susquehanna river with all my clothes on. I survived that, 
but I need help with something else.

I just turned on a computer plugged into 230v with the switch on the 
power supply set to 115v. Result: bang, smoke, house breaker (16a) pops.

I took the power supply apart (it is a funny size so I have little 
confidence I could replace it). I found two obviously bad components: 1) 
an 8a fuse -- no problem. 2) something marked znr1 on the board, a 
component wrapped in heatshrink tubing. It was completely destroyed. 
Next to it is a similar part labeled znr2. I haven't removed it yet -- 
so I am not sure it is good. It might be the same as the first one and 
it might be marked under the heatshrink.

There is a bridge rectifier nearby which checks good. All traces look 
ok. I am hoping there is someone out there who is familiar with these 
supplies who can suggest what these are (zener diodes? What voltage?)
The board is made in such a way that it is difficult to trace the wiring 
-- but these parts are right near the power input.

-- 
Vic, K2VCO/4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] Help! Rescue me from stupid error!

[Fred Townsend]

My guess is they are both 240V rated. The parts are cheap and there are several 
brands which cross over with similar part numbers. I would replace both. If 240 
are not available then 270 will work fine as well. Until parts are obtained you 
may use the computer. Odds are there will not be any power distrubances in the 
mean time. Sort of like using the spare tire. Two flats in a row are not likely 
to happen.

Fred

-Original Message-
From: Vic, K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com
Sent: Sep 9, 2014 10:59 AM
To: Fred Townsend fptowns...@earthlink.net, Elecraft Reflector 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Help! Rescue me from stupid error!

Took the second one out. It is labeled TVR07241, which is a 240v
varistor! I can get these to replace them.
I think this one is undamaged (at least, it isn't blown up or shorted). 
I wonder if the other one was a 115V one which was only in the circuit 
when the switch was set for 115. That would certainly explain it blowing 
when I plugged it into 230!

On 9/9/14 8:41 PM, Fred Townsend wrote:

 Vic: Sorry you passed the smoke test. Your mystery components sound
 like transient suppressors. They are not needed for normal operation.
 They are there to suppress lightning or other power line
 disturbances. To find out carefully cut out ZNR12 and clean up any
 ashes. Then replace the fuse and try the computer. If you are lucky
 the computer will run. Don't forget to change back to 120 VAC
 setting.

 Good luck, Fred, AE6QL

 -Original Message-
 From: Vic, K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com Sent: Sep 9, 2014 10:23
 AM To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject:
 [Elecraft] Help! Rescue me from stupid error!

 I just did one of the dumbest things I've done since I tried to
 swim across the Susquehanna river with all my clothes on. I
 survived that, but I need help with something else.

 I just turned on a computer plugged into 230v with the switch on
 the power supply set to 115v. Result: bang, smoke, house breaker
 (16a) pops.

 I took the power supply apart (it is a funny size so I have little
 confidence I could replace it). I found two obviously bad
 components: 1) an 8a fuse -- no problem. 2) something marked znr1
 on the board, a component wrapped in heatshrink tubing. It was
 completely destroyed. Next to it is a similar part labeled znr2. I
 haven't removed it yet -- so I am not sure it is good. It might be
 the same as the first one and it might be marked under the
 heatshrink.

 There is a bridge rectifier nearby which checks good. All traces
 look ok. I am hoping there is someone out there who is familiar
 with these supplies who can suggest what these are (zener diodes?
 What voltage?) The board is made in such a way that it is difficult
 to trace the wiring -- but these parts are right near the power
 input.

 -- Vic, K2VCO/4X6GP Rehovot, Israel http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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-- 
Vic

-- 
Vic, K2VCO/4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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Re: [Elecraft] Help! Rescue me from stupid error!

[Fred Townsend]

George: Not to put too fine a point on it but ZNRs are large and slow moving so 
they do have mechanical aspects but more to the point they do NOT have 
capacitance, save lead capacitance (a few pf), and do NOT act like zeners. They 
are much slower (ms vrs ns). They are NOT transorbs which are zener like and 
have junctions, hole electron pairs, transition capacitance, etc. Without 
hole-electron pairs and their ns speed, Charlie's definition of non-linear 
resistors is much more accurate.

73, Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: george fritkin via Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sep 9, 2014 12:38 PM
To: Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com, elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Help! Rescue me from stupid error!

There is nothing mechanical about a ZNR.  The electrical equivalent is back to 
back Zener diodes with a capacitor.  Some people call them Transzorbs or MOVs 
to get by trade marks.  The ZNR is a Panasonic trade mark

George, W6GF


On Tuesday, September 9, 2014 10:54 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com 
wrote:
 


A 'ZNR is a Zinc Oxide non-linear Resistor.  It is the mechanical 
equivalent of a Zener Diode.  It is a bidirectional (AC) device that will 
conduct when a certain level of voltage is applied across it.  They don't 
typically have as sharp a knee as a real Zener, but are very effective for 
what they do.  Basically , a voltage surge or transient  protector. 
Hopefully, they worked but are probably blown and should be replaced.

As for the rest of the stuff, I'm sure you'll find some more (inexpensive) 
things to replace and the system will come back to life.

Good Luck on the repair, Charlie k3ICH


- Original Message - 
From: Vic, K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2014 1:23 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Help! Rescue me from stupid error!


I just did one of the dumbest things I've done since I tried to swim across 
the Susquehanna river with all my clothes on. I survived that, but I need 
help with something else.

 I just turned on a computer plugged into 230v with the switch on the power 
 supply set to 115v. Result: bang, smoke, house breaker (16a) pops.

 I took the power supply apart (it is a funny size so I have little 
 confidence I could replace it). I found two obviously bad components: 1) 
 an 8a fuse -- no problem. 2) something marked znr1 on the board, a 
 component wrapped in heatshrink tubing. It was completely destroyed. Next 
 to it is a similar part labeled znr2. I haven't removed it yet -- 
 so I am not sure it is good. It might be the same as the first one and it 
 might be marked under the heatshrink.

 There is a bridge rectifier nearby which checks good. All traces look ok. 
 I am hoping there is someone out there who is familiar with these supplies 
 who can suggest what these are (zener diodes? What voltage?)
 The board is made in such a way that it is difficult to trace the 
 wiring -- but these parts are right near the power input.

 -- 
 Vic, K2VCO/4X6GP
 Rehovot, Israel
 http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] Experiment: how much PL tone deviation is required to reliably key repeaters?

[Fred Townsend]

Wayne when you find out the answer to your question I hope you will publish it 
to the community. Seems like way low below the standard works because the 
repeaters are low pass filtering out the speech going into the decoder.

73

Fred, AE6QL
-Original Message-
From: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
Sent: Sep 6, 2014 9:36 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net, k...@yahoogroups.com 
k...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Elecraft] Experiment: how much PL tone deviation is required to  
reliably key repeaters?

Hi all,

There seems to be some debate about how much FM deviation is required for PL 
tones used to activate repeaters. There's a wide range of deviation values in 
use by transmitters, and various standard recommendations. The question is 
how much is needed for reliable operation in the real world. 

Our objective is to set the default PL tone deviation in the K3 and KX3 to the 
lowest level that works in virtually all cases (let's say 98-99%, since there 
are always outliers). Setting it too high can result in the tone being audible 
in receivers.

If you have a K3 or KX3 outfitted with an internal 2-meter module (or an 
external transverter on any repeater band), you could help us with this 
experiment: just try reducing the PL DEViation value to the point where you 
can no longer reliably key up your local repeaters. 

NOTES:

1. If you're doing this with a KX3, please use the current production firmware 
(rev. 2.18) or later. Earlier releases may not have provided an accurate PL 
DEV setting.

2. To adjust the PL DEViation, locate the FM DEV menu entry, then tap '1' to 
switch to PL DEV. This applies to both the K3 and KX3.

Thanks for the help--

Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] Trade for Elecreaft Equipment OT

[Fred Townsend]

Sounds like mirror for smoke to me. (Assuming worst case.)
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: David Cole d...@nk7z.net
Sent: Sep 3, 2014 5:46 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Trade for Elecreaft Equipment...

I have a 12.5 inch diameter, f/6, full thickness, (2.13 inches), fully
aluminized, fully parabolized, Pyrex, research grade mirror for sale or
trade. It was tested at better than 1/8 wave accuracy, and has a tested
value of .972 for Sterehl rating. Testing performed by Optical Wave Labs
in California. The original test certificate will be included with the
mirror when purchased. 

This is a high quality mirror, that has been finished, tested, and
aluminized by a professionals in the United States. If you are going to
build a 12.5 inch scope, this is the mirror to use!


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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] A Comparative Performance Assessment (of Aftermarket KX3 Heatsinks)

[Fred Townsend]

Al Lorona wrote:

 Here's a dumb question from a person with little thermal engineering 
 knowledge: As these various heat sinks are being compared, does 1° deg C. 
 really matter? 

As Wayne wrote not a dumb question at all but a highly complex one. Again I 
agree with Wayne's answer of 'probably not'. In fact your heatsink will operate 
more effeciently at higher temperatures because radiation effects are 
proportional to the forth order meaning a small change can make a big 
difference. On the other hand Elecraft builds in a huge safety margin and 
monitors and halts if that margin is exceeded.  On the other side one degree is 
one more degree of margin or which of your comfort zone does your wallet reside?
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Al Lorona alor...@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Sep 2, 2014 10:19 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] A Comparative Performance Assessment (of 
Aftermarket KX3 Heatsinks)

 
Here's a dumb question from a person with little thermal engineering 
knowledge: As these various heat sinks are being compared, does 1° deg C. 
really matter? 
 
Al  W6LX
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] A Comparative Performance Assessment (of Aftermarket KX3 Heatsinks)

[Fred Townsend]

Gary radiation effects do not vary linearly as a function of ambient 
temperature  and are IMHO, a bigger error factor than anything Don has 
mentioned therefore ambient temperature should be stated. Also, again IMHO 
thermal resistance is a much better comparison between heatsinks. Ambient temp 
is needed if thermal resistance is to be computed.

73
Fred, AE6QL


-Original Message-
From: Gary W. Hvizdak gary.hviz...@cfl.rr.com
Sent: Sep 2, 2014 12:23 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] A Comparative Performance Assessment (of 
Aftermarket KX3 Heatsinks)

Don (W3FPR) recently wrote ...

why does still air have to be in quotes?

Hi Don,

That was done so the wording in still air wouldn't seem like a
grammatical error.  More importantly, here's an excerpt from a recent email
from Adrian, addressing your inquiry regarding ambient temperature:

The ambient temperature was constantly monitored on the test bench by the
transceiver using a very sensitive aviation anemometer.  This instrument can
measure airflow down to fractions of a knot, and does so by monitoring
temperature changes of a heated thermistor, as well as using a ducted fan
whose speed is measured via a pulse-counting technique for higher speeds.  I
managed to keep the ambient temperature stable throughout the test to within
an indicated 0.5 degree C, so I was quite pleased with the actual test
results.

--- - - - ---

I certainly could have included details like this in the final report,
but tried to avoid providing too much information, and also tried to limit
the document to two pages without resorting to a tiny font.  More
importantly, IMHO Adrian's test environment and methodology were sufficient
for his intended objective, which was to compare the performance of the
various aftermarket offerings to one another, for the purpose of ranking
them.  Yes, higher resolution temperature measurements would have made the
results more meaningful; but that evaluation is left as an exercise for the
reader.

BTW, check out http://www.ve7fmn.ca/faqs/#about_testing for a
description and photo of the setup Adrian had used for his original
comparison of the factory/stock heatsink and his Cooler KX(TM) Lite, which
used an entirely different methodology.

73,
Gary  KI4GGX
webmaster http://www.ve7fmn.ca/


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 filter plots

[Fred Townsend]

Have you refreshed your page?


-Original Message-
From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
Sent: Sep 2, 2014 12:39 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 filter plots


They certainly don't work for me.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 2014-09-02 3:28 PM, Thomas R. Houston wrote:
 Actually, Ed, both the link and the link to the crystal filter plots work
 for me.

 Tom K6OKE

 -Original Message-
 From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Ed Muns
 Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2014 11:39 AM
 To: 'Phil Wheeler'; 'N2TK, Tony'; 'Gary W. Hvizdak'; bran...@elecraft.com
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 filter plots

 Yes, the link below works, but the link to the crystal filter plots that is
 at that top of that webpage is broken.

 Ed W0YK

 -

 Phil W7OX wrote:

 This link can be useful and still works:
 http://www.elecraft.com/K3/Roofing_Filters.htm

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Re: [Elecraft] SWR Readings:Differences

[Fred Townsend]

Hello Mark:
Question? What is the SWR of a mile long piece of coax if it is unterminated.
Answer 1:1. That is because a long length coax will act as a matching 
transformer. Actually it doesn't have to be too long as you found out. If 
reading is not better in the shack something is wrong.

Mark what you are seeing is entirely normal. If you want to measure the antenna 
impedance from the shack you should use something like Time Domain 
Reflectometer.

73
Fred 

-Original Message-
From: pastor...@verizon.net
Sent: Sep 2, 2014 5:06 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] SWR Readings:Differences

Good Evening,
This is Mark Griffin, KB3Z and I have some questions regarding the SWR 
readings I get at my tower versus what I get on my K3. I will give the SWR 
readings that I got at my tower for a 40 meter rotatable dipole at 55 feet.

Tower:

7000  2.2
7025  1.8
7050  1.5
7075  1.3
7100  1.0
7125  1.1
7150  1.3
7175  1.6
7200  2.0
7225  2.2

K3 Readings:

7000  3.5

7025  3.2

7050  2.9

7075  2.6

7100  2.4

7125  2.3

7150  2.4

7175  2.5

7200  2.6
7225  2.9

What would cause such a big difference. The cable run from my antenna switch 
on the tower to my K3 is only an additional 75 feet. I am using RG-213 cable. 
Is there anyway that I can test the SWR reading that my K3 is giving me?

Mark Griffin, KB3Z

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Re: [Elecraft] NiMH batteries How do I test?

[Fred Townsend]

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Re: [Elecraft] NiMH batteries How do I test?

[Fred Townsend]

Jim I agree with Mark but would like to add one thing. Heat is the enemy of the 
battery. As Mark says the heat goes up sharply at end of charge. This is how 
the smart charger knows the battery is fully charged. If you attempt another 
charge when the battery is hot you may damage the cells. This is why the 
charger is programed to protect the batteries. The nominal cell voltage is 
1.2vdc so for 8 cells it is 9.6vdc, for 9 cells 10.8vdc, or 12.0vdc for 10 
cells. The float voltage is 1.25 so the numbers are 10, 11.25, and 12.5 
respective. Do not confuse NiMH with SLA which have a nominal voltage of 12.6 
and float of 13.85vdc.
73
Fred, AE6QL


-Original Message-
From: Mark,  KE6BB via Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Aug 24, 2014 4:19 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NiMH batteries How do I test?

Jim,

Good descriptions from Ray and Bob.  You are also right in that the KXBC3 has 
some smarts, but it is constant current temperature monitored charger.

You may also see the display message Not 0 to 40.  It means the cell 
temperatures are not within the temperature range of 0 to 40 deg. C.  If it 
occurs on a cold day at the beginning of a recharge cycle, the cells are 
probably too cold to be charged, but the most likely time you will see it is 
near the end of a recharge cycle on a warm day.  As the cells near full 
charge, they convert more and more of the 200 MA charge current to heat rather 
than into the chemical process of recharging.  That is how NiMH cells work 
when recharged with a constant current.  The KXBC3 will suspend charging until 
the temperature drops below 40 deg. C.  

This is all normal operation, and is the most common method for recharging 
NiMH cells.

Mark
KE6BB



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Re: [Elecraft] no DDS VFO output/KX1

[Fred Townsend]

Ron I have no comments about the KX1. However I do seem to recall the Tek 422 
has a 30 MHz bandwidth with a P6006 probe.

73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: wa7...@citlink.net
Sent: Aug 23, 2014 3:50 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] no DDS VFO output/KX1

Hello All:
My first time to post to this list.
I am building KX1 S/N 2825 and have progressed to page 43 Alignment and Test 
Part 2 with no problems.  I have completed tests through page 44-keyer.
I have not been able to proceed to the Receiver Alignment section, page 45, 
because I can not discern any signal from the DDS VFO, so not able to hear any
signals, on either 20m or 40m.
My question is this: should I be able to see the VFO signal at pin 19 of U2?  
I am using an old TEK 422 scope with 10 x probe.  I see nothing at pin 19 or 
at pin 3 of Z2 the 50 mhz clock.  At pin 3 of Z2, clock output, I measure gnd 
(with power off, of course).  I also measure gnd at pin 4 of Z2, but also see 
2.7 vdc when the unit is powered up.  No VFO or MCLK signals are visible.  
This is confusing(!)

I’m kinda stymied at this point, and any suggestions are welcome!
Should I be able to hear the VFO signal on an outboard receiver?
Should I be able to see the VFO signal at some point, and where is the best 
measurement point?
Another note: I am using the directions from Don Wilhelm’s letter of 4 May, 
2011 regarding replacement of components for KXB3080 option prior to 
installing the option.  This includes C27,C26,C1,T2. He will know what I am 
referring to.
Sorry to run on for so long.

Any help or suggestions, please?

Thanks for the bandwidth.

73
Ron Dickerson WA7BME
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 oscillator temperature

[Fred Townsend]

Johan:
We know the higher the frequency the less efficient the amplifier /oscillator 
so what I think you are seeing is the effect of self heating. 3 degrees c seems 
like a reasonable number. I think you will see even more heating in transmit. 
That's why an oscillator with a low temperature coefficient is important.

73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: on4iq on...@telenet.be
Sent: Aug 20, 2014 11:50 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 oscillator temperature

I recently started extensive temperature testing on the KX3 to get more data
on dissipation and stability.
For starters stability in RX. KX3 in original setup. Serial below #2000
I noticed that for a steady ambient temperature the oscillator temperature
varies with frequency used.
Has anyone else similar observations? Temp taken after long (2h) warm up
For example: 
50MHz: 39°C 
28MHz: 37°C
 7MHz: 36°C

PA in RX remains 28°C
Any feedback is welcome.
73 Johan




--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-oscillator-temperature-tp7592410.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 false SWR indication with SSB

[Fred Townsend]

Mark I have not seen your problem so I tend to discount your explanation. It 
sounds like something is breaking down. Perhaps bad coax, antenna, insulator, 
or lightning arrestor. You could test with a TDR (Time Domain Reflectometer) or 
Hipot tester. If you lack the equipment connect a dummy load to the K3 and 
test. If that passes your problem is not in the K3.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Mark N2QT via Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Aug 19, 2014 12:15 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 false SWR indication with SSB

My k3 flashes a higher swr indication with ssb voice peaks than with a steady 
carrier.

If using an antenna with 1:1 SWR the bar graph flashes the first segment.  If 
swr is 1.5:1
all the segments illuminate on voice peaks, as if swr was greater than 3:1.  
To reduce the 
uncertainty introduced by my antennas,  I connected a 50 ohm load after an 
external tuner 
so I could create the 1.5:1 SWR, and got the same results.

I assume this is a benign problem and likely caused by the non simultaneous 
sampling
of FWD and REV power by the CPU.  

However, if no one else sees this I'll do some more checking.

FW 4.81/2.83 and TX Gain Cal done recently.  

Mark. N2QT

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Re: [Elecraft] Changing the subject line

[Fred Townsend]

Fred, correcting the subject line might, I say might, affect a few thread 
followers. However the other readers will bless your intelligence in changing 
as we can delete without opening the file. While we at it why can't the poster 
put the proper subject line in the first place? Sometimes I think this is Mrs. 
Mayfield's kindergarten class where the followers get in line just because 
there is a line forming.

73, Fred, AE6QL


-Original Message-
From: Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net
Sent: Aug 19, 2014 1:04 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Changing the subject line

Question:  Does changing the subject line foul up those who read their 
email as a threaded list?

I don't, but I'm reluctant to change the subject when replying, even if 
it is far afield of the current email content, for fear of just making 
things harder for some [or many].

Answers direct if you wish to keep the list BW down, I'll post a single 
summary.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

On 8/19/2014 10:40 AM, Josh wrote:
 A meaningful subject line would allow more efficient use of the delete key!

 Tnx  73
 Josh W6XU


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Re: [Elecraft] NiHg batteries How do I test?

[Fred Townsend]

Fred, I think you mean 1.2 or 1.25v nominal each cell. Jim NiMh don't take heat 
well. Sounds like you may have over charged. Did they get hot?

73
Another Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net
Sent: Aug 17, 2014 7:34 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NiMh batteries How do I test?

I figured that's what you meant.

Not quite enough info to understand what is happening for you and what 
your charging situation is.  NiMh cells are nominally at 2V.  My 
experience has been that when they've reached the End of Old, [a term 
coined by our kids to distinguish between Grandma and Grandpa, who were 
much older than Mom and Dad ... but not yet dead, and those who were], 
NiMh die rather quickly at the End of Old.  They'll be working pretty 
well, and then not take a charge.  If your's are new, you might have a 
charger problem.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

On 8/17/2014 7:19 PM, Jim GM wrote:
 NiMh I ment to post. Oh well



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[Elecraft] OT Smoke Detector Recall

[Fred Townsend]

ESL, Interlogix Hard-Wired Smoke Alarms Recalled Due to Failure to Alert 
Consumers of a Fire 

Recall Summary 
Name of product: 
ESL and Interlogix brand 400/500 series smoke detectors manufactured in China.

 
Hazard: 

Radio frequency interference can cause the smoke detectors to fail to alert 
consumers of a fire.

Folks these are smoke detectors hard-wired into security systems likely 
installed within the last two years by the builder of your house or apartment. 
They are deactivated by RF meaning your ham radio could deactivate your smoke 
detector. Kind of important considering how many smoke tests some of us run. 
Don't forget to tell your neighbors too, especially if your houses are built by 
the same contractor.

73, Fred, AE6QL

See 
http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2014/ESL-Interlogix-Hard-Wired-Smoke-Alarms-Recalled/
 for more details.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT Antenna location concern

[Fred Townsend]

Bill I'd like to add a few things to what Don has said. Fortunately the 
electronics in your HVAC system is fairly simply and easily shielded. However 
when susceptibly problems occur with Japanese designs it can be very difficult 
to get them to respond. Let's hope you don't have to go there.

What concerns me more is the noise/interference generated by some high SEER 
HVAC systems. These systems achieve variable speed by using variable frequency 
inverter driven motors. These can be a pain in two ways. First they radiate 
noise that can extend well above 160M. Second, they can induce harmonics on the 
powerlines. Line filters similar that what your kilowatt amps use are needed 
between the HVAC system and the 240vac power lines. Some of the HVAC systems 
have the filters built in and others don't. Let's hope they have done their 
homework and cleaned up their systems.

With your system operating in the AC mode you will want to scan 160M for noise 
or hash. You may want to check 80M too if 160M is dirty. Don't take acceptance 
of the system until it is proven clean.

73, Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
Sent: Aug 14, 2014 4:54 PM, 
To: W2BLC w2...@nycap.rr.com, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT Antenna location concern

Bill,

All products are required to withstand RF susceptibility levels.  So if 
you encounter strange happenings with your HVAC system due to RF, the 
supplier is bound to take corrective action.
Some may not understand, and some may not even know of the requirements, 
so at worst case, you may have to get the FCC involved for resolution.
The most published FCC class B information regards radiation from the 
device(s), but there is also regulations regarding susceptibility from 
radiation from licensed services.  The fact that you addressed the RF 
interference situation with the installer should go a long way (document 
that conversation for yourself with dates and names), and for a 
reputable company should be as good as a written statement (I am no 
lawyer, but it makes sense to me).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/14/2014 4:20 PM, W2BLC wrote:
 I recently installed a Mitsubishi mini-split system and now have an 
 antenna concern. I am about to install a new dipole that will pass 
 within ten feet of one of the interior units (that would be measured 
 through the wall). I already know that the system has produced no 
 interference to any reception - however, I am concerned about how 
 being close to a transmitting antenna will effect or not effect the 
 unit/system. The antenna's location will meet safe human exposure 
 limits for the bands/power used - 160/75/40.

 I am assured by the installer that RF is not a problem and not to be 
 concerned - of course that is not in writing. Attempts to email and 
 call Mitsubishi have not been informative. Hence my question:

 Has anyone had difficulties with the control systems of their HVAC 
 systems caused by RF from a nearby transmitting antenna? I run the 
 KPA500 all the time - so consider this a 600 Watt station.


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Re: [Elecraft] Some Cool heat sink info.

[Fred Townsend]

Howard you and Johnny are right. It is not rocket science but it is 
thermodynamics. There are many nuances... conduction, radiation, and 
convection. Often optimizing for one may diminish another characteristics. 
There are many trade-offs. Copper is a better conductor of heat flux than 
aluminum but it adds more weight. Black bodies radiate heat faster than than 
bare metal but they also absorb heat from sunlight faster so do you optimize 
for dark or sunlight?

I think the good news take away is this an easy area to do your own experiments 
and homebrew. You don't even need a thermometer. It's already there. Thank you 
Elecraft.
73
Fred, AE6QL (The other Fred)

-Original Message-
From: Howard Hoyt hh...@mebtel.net
Sent: Aug 13, 2014 10:55 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Some Cool heat sink info.

Hi all,

Johnny, VR2XMC wrote:

It should not?be any rocket science, all you need is a piece of thick metal 
plate
to suck the heat from the PA transistors and with fins to facilitate air 
circulation.


You are right: a thick piece of metal will sink the heat from the PA 
transistors.  But how thick?  Too thin and there is little benefit. Too 
thick and the stored heat in the metal mass actually inhibits recovery 
time after a heating event.

How many fins?  How tall? How far apart?  And what combination of all of 
these gives the most benefit at a targeted small size?

You are right: it is not rocket science, but a dismissive attitude 
towards the importance of learning the interaction between the variables 
leads to some of the poorly-performing (not to mention ugly) designs I 
have seen hung off of several KX3s.  I also happen to agree with 
Elecraft's design criteria which is the same as just about all 
amateur-radio gear made:  100% power on CW and SSB, 50% power on digital 
modes.  To upgrade this to commercial broadcast equipment performance of 
100% duty cycle in all modes would greatly increase the price and size.  
If someone wants more power and xmit time in digital they can always buy 
a heatsink, and the cost of doing so is not added to the KX3 for 90% of 
the purchasers who do not need it.

More info on my website www.proaudioeng.com if you are interested,

Howie - WA4PSC

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Re: [Elecraft] Unhook *ALL* connections before Lightning storm

[Fred Townsend]

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 speaker amp chip bites the dust again

[Fred Townsend]

It sounds like there may be another fault in your system. Are you hooking up to 
any powered external speakers or phones?
73, Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Dave Hachadorian k6ll.d...@gmail.com
Sent: Jul 1, 2014 12:28 PM
To: Reflector Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 speaker amp chip bites the dust again

I guess I've blown the speaker amp IC in my K3 again.  This is 
the third time this has happened, twice in one radio and once in 
another.

In this case, the radio had both the AF Output Mod Kit (pair of 
470 ohm resistors) and the E85056 Audio Protection Assembly 
Circuit Board installed.

I was operating on Field Day, with headphones, as I usually do, 
when some onlookers wanted to hear what was going on.  I flipped 
SPKRS+PHONES=YES, then along came a strong signal, and poof! no 
speaker audio.

AGC SLP was zero, and AGC THR was 020.  Front panel AGC was FAST.

This failure is really getting old, especially at $120 a pop to 
get it fixed.

Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Big Bear Lake, CA



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