[Elecraft] K-3 and IC-7300

2017-02-27 Thread James D. (Jimmy) Walker, Jr. via Elecraft
I own the K-3 and have recently purchased the IC-7300. If you use the P-3 
Panadapter, with your K-3 then you will not be happy with another rig that 
doesn't have a band-scope. I like the IC-7300 very much.  

Jimmy


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[Elecraft] Firmware Problem

2016-04-27 Thread James D. (Jimmy) Walker, Jr. via Elecraft
I'm having my old firmware problem again. My K-3 refused to turn on this 
afternoon displaying the dreaded MCU LD at the bottom of screen. Past 
experience has demonstrated that this indicates a problem with the K-3 
firmware. I've had several theories proposed for a solution, none of which have 
been successful.

By way of further background, I can solve the problem by disconnecting the P3 
from the line going to the computer and reloading the firmware directly to the 
K-3 from the computer. In this way, with only the radio connected to the 
computer, I can reload the firmware, solving the problem. This is most 
inconvenient but, fortunately, it does provide a solution.

For those on this reflector who have followed my problem, here's a new 
possibility for solution. I have one of the earlier K-3’s with a .5 amp rating 
on the DC power output. I understand newer K-3's are rated for 1 amp or more. 
I've had my P-3 Panadapter set up to turn on automatically at the time of the 
start of the radio. I now wonder if this drain on the DC output by the P3 
Panadapter may have caused a significant voltage causing the system to bomb out.

I have now adjusted the jumpers on the P-3 so as to start the P-3 manually 
after the radio. I wonder if anyone has any ideas that this might have been a 
good solution or is instead of another blind alley? I guess I’ll find out 
sooner or later. As far as I know I’m the only user having this problem.

Jimmy, WA4ILO


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[Elecraft] Sherwood's receiver performance table updated

2016-04-26 Thread James D. (Jimmy) Walker, Jr. via Elecraft
I’ve enjoyed this thread comparing the K-3 line with the IC-7300. Have the K-3 
with the P-3 Panadapter. However, I’m going to try purchase the IC-7300 in 
Dayton. What interests me most in the IC-7300 is the ability for direct entry 
of a frequency by touching the waterfall display. The P-3 does not offer that 
feature, and I’m told that it will not be available. With due regard to the 
superior performance of the K-3 receivers, I believe that state of the art now 
requires a more responsive Panadapter for the casual operator. BTW, I’m not 
expecting to part with my K-3. 

Jimmy, WA4ILO

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[Elecraft] Firmware Failure - Update

2016-04-05 Thread James D. (Jimmy) Walker, Jr. via Elecraft
I’m getting some interesting responses to my question about firmware failure. 
Thanks to everyone who has replied directly. To update my post, I always turn 
the rig off using the power switch. I never turn off the power supply to the 
rig. There is always power available at the power input. When the MCU LD 
failure occurs, it’s always at the power on, startup time, after the rig has 
been idle for a week or two. If the rig will power on correctly, it will not 
fail during operation. 

Does the EEPROM unplug to make replacement easier?

Jimmy, WA4ILO

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[Elecraft] Firmware Failure

2016-04-05 Thread James D. (Jimmy) Walker, Jr. via Elecraft
I wrote a few months ago about the strange occurrence of finding my firmware 
missing or corrupted on my K-3. In it’s state of failure it displays MCU LD on 
a dark screen. The Transmit light blinks on and off. My computer cannot detect 
the K-3 to reload the firmware. The problem has occurred several times. The 
solution, inconvenient but workable, is to disconnect the P-3 and hook the 
computer up directly to the K-3. In doing so, I can reload the firmware. My 
question is, “Why does my K-3 lose it’s mind?” Is there some battery that backs 
up the firmware? Could such a battery be dead as happens sometimes in older 
computers? This is very inconvenient. Help please.

Jimmy, WA4ILO

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[Elecraft] Noise Reduction (NR)

2016-03-11 Thread James D. (Jimmy) Walker, Jr. via Elecraft
I hope this isn’t a worn out question. I’d like to ask the group whether there 
is a favorite setting for NR? I know there are different conditions that might 
require different settings, but does anyone have a default setting?

Jimmy, WA4ILO

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[Elecraft] Firmware Issue

2016-02-04 Thread James D. (Jimmy) Walker, Jr. via Elecraft
Turning on my rig a few nights ago (K-3 Serial #6512) I got a strange response. 
The rig would not turn on. All I got was a blinking TX light and screen display 
reading of MCU LD. My K-3 Utility program could not access the rig through the 
COM port. I looked up the reset instruction saying I should use the key 
combination of POWER + SHIFT 0/0 (whatever that is). Assuming I did it right, 
it didn’t work.

I drafted this email while I was thinking about what to do. Then I tried POWER 
+ 0. In response the rig turned on normally. What just happened. Was I just 
lucky the last time?

Jimmy, WA4ILO
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[Elecraft] Synthesizer Issue

2015-03-02 Thread James D. (Jimmy) Walker, Jr. via Elecraft
Can someone please give me a summary of this synthesizer issue or a useful link 
so I can understand all this conversation about new boards. I have a three year 
old K-3 and a one year old sub-receiver. Do I need these boards? What would 
they do for me? An off-list reply is welcome since it appears I’m the only one 
who doesn’t know what’s going on. Thanks.

Jimmy, WA4ILO

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Ham Radio Deluxe

2012-09-09 Thread Jimmy Walker
Yes, that's the answer. The problem developed for me today. I consulted the 
archives and found the same answer specified in this response. I had done some 
work on the memory settings earlier in the afternoon. I have no idea how that 
may have changed this setting but it doesn't matter. Changing the CONFIG: VFO 
IND to YES solved the problem for me.


Jimmy Walker
Macon, GA

WA4ILO.com
wa4...@aol.com





-Original Message-
From: Ian Kahn km4ik@gmail.com
To: vk4tux vk4...@bigpond.com
Cc: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Fri, Sep 7, 2012 11:23 pm
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3  Ham Radio Deluxe


My CONFIG: VFO IND had been set to No the entire 18 months I've had my
K3.  I had the same problem in the latest version of HRD.  I found, on my
rig, by changing that setting to Yes, then the automatic band switching
when selecting a spot on a different band works perfectly.

73,

--Ian
Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team

On Fri, Sep 7, 2012 at 1:39 AM, vk4tux vk4...@bigpond.com wrote:

 CONFIG:VFO IND = No



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 View this message in context:
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Ham-Radio-Deluxe-tp7562232p7562233.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 LCD Back?

2007-01-07 Thread Jimmy Walker
I'm doubting this group would have too much sympathy for a builder who 
neglects the errata sheet. My first step in constructing a kit is go 
over the errata sheet and write in the changes to the construction 
manual. I must confess, however, to having some difficulty reading my 
handwriting some days or weeks later, but there'll never be a fix for 
that problem.


Jimmy Walker
WA4ILO
Macon, GA

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Folks,

OK, I believe that some clarification will be forthcoming from Elecraft
about this LCD backing thing.

Yes, enough builders have had trouble with it that I have come to believe
that a diagram or photo or something similar should be added - and I think
it will be, but folks will have to heed the info on the errata sheet, and
evidence indicates that that information is often overlooked (you just can't
win).

Actually, I have to say that in all the K2s that I have built, I have never
had an LCD with this extra back film, so I conclude that the presence of a
film is the exception - but then the situation can change at any moment with
the whim of the manufacturer and/or vendor.

Thanks for the informative responses.  Sorry that I could not see the
problem that many of you were having with the manual description.

73,
Don W3FPR


-Original Message-

Will someone out there PLEASE take a good photograph of the film,
half-removed.

I'll be happy to host the photo, as would Wayne/Eric, I'm sure. I have no
idea what it may or may not look like. I'm guessing it's like that
protective covering on most new electronics faceplates. Not too harmful to
leave it there, but prettier if removed - but I don't recall even
scratching
my head when I built my K2.


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 LCD Back?

2007-01-05 Thread Jimmy Walker
I don't want to over do this subject, but Dohn's comment is perfectly 
stated and should be taken very seriously. I'm sure putting a manual 
together for project as complex as the K-2 is a daunting task. In nearly 
every respect, the manual is flawless. But this LCD film issue is a 
troublesome one for a first time builder not familiar with these 
components. I spent a long time anguishing over the question of whether 
to peal the back off the LCD, and eventually made the correct decision. 
But as you go along with this construction project, you'd like to think 
careful construction, not correct guesses, would better assure success.


The addenda materials could relieve this confusion considerably with a 
more elaborate description of this film. The nature of this kind of 
project for a builder is that constant perfection is a critical 
requirement, not a luxury. The manual has to subscribe to the same high 
standard however difficult it may be to achieve.


Jimmy Walker
WA4ILO
Macon, GA


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I think part of the anxiety is that it is the first place you come to in
your otherwise straightforward manual that you must make a decision that is
not clear cut and does not have a picture to back it up.  It is a small
decision but as I remember it says thin film but be careful not to peel
away the backing.  At least for me, I didn't know what Elecraft meant by
thin film verses backing.  Many of us hadn't seen an LCD component like that
right out of a bulk box.  Never saw one with a thin film protecting the
backing to know what one without looks like.  What is the difference between
a thin film and what is a backing when you've never seen either one and
wired up trying to do a perfect job?  It is clearly an important step and
one you want to complete.  PERFECTLY.  So ask the reflector.  That is why I
think you see this so often.  Just my .02 cents worth.

73
Dohn N8EWY

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Re: [Elecraft] Noise Blanker

2006-10-10 Thread Jimmy Walker
I'm arriving at this conversation a bit late, but let me ask this question. 
I have a relatively newly assembled K-2, working perfectly as far as I can 
tell. I have the KNB2 assembled and ready to install. After reading these 
posts, I'm wondering if I should bother to do it. I find, as Ron said, the 
filters do a good job with atmospheric noise. I don't have anything else 
unusual here in the way of noise. Sometimes I get line noise, but it's so 
irritating I usually don't try to work through it. I'll wait it out.


So, should I risk the uninstalling of resistors and cutting of jumpers on a 
good radio for the improvement offered by the noise blanker?


Jimmy Walker
WA4ILO
Macon, GA


- Original Message - 
From: ron [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Noise Blanker



Hello all;

I push on a CW filter and it does the same thing!
I also press attenuate with same results!

Unh? Noise blanker and/or filter does same thing?

Why?
Because filters and NB may appear to remove atmospheric noise, but it's 
still there, because it's attenuated. (There's a little more to that but 
not here)


Noise blankers work more effectively on man-made noise such as 
automobiles, lights, motors, hair dryers (pulse type noise) etc.

Not atmospheric noises.

Oh,
after you did that, you probably had to turn up the volume a bit like I 
did.

It make for easier listening though.

Regardless, I love me K1.
(smile)

Ron, wb1hga

W.D. (Doc) Lindsey wrote:



evening here on 30Metres, and the QRN seemed incessant, I [probably]
accidentally pushed the NB button on a K2.  And suddenly the noise all 
but
disappeared.  Since then I have come to use it regularly, as there seems 
to

be a whole lot of QRN here in the tiny subdivision.  But the NB will
normally knock it down to listenable levels.


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[Elecraft] New K-2 #5529 - Happy Story!

2006-08-20 Thread Jimmy Walker
I have always enjoyed those messages here on the reflector announcing K-2 
Serial No. X is on the air. I always wanted to make that announcement. 
Now's my turn.


K-2 Serial No. 5529 is on the air!

It was a summer project for me, from early June to this week in August, in 
increments of time ranging from 1.0 to 3.0 hours with a 5.0 hour stretch in 
there one Saturday. I took the advice of several builders and worked in 
short intervals. I counted almost 60 hours in construction, but that would 
be extreme, since I was not in a hurry. I could do it again in 40 hours or 
less, with what I learned this first time.


I had my problems, but not many. Luckily, I discovered them as I went along. 
I incorrectly installed two of the variable inductors. Unsoldering them was 
a nightmare. Heaven help me if I had done the same with an IC. The advice to 
throw away the solder wick and buy a good desoldering iron is urgently 
important. I didn't do that and had to pay the price in time and anxiety. I 
wouldn't attempt the project again without one.


The two variable inductors destroyed in the uninstallation were promptly 
replaced by Elecraft's parts department. I had two missing capacitors which 
were likewise supplied promptly by the big E. At the end of installing the 
capacitors, I discovered two had been installed in error. Again, Elecraft to 
the rescue with new parts. Then, in finishing the diodes, I found one of 
them had been incorrectly installed. Presto, a new one is promptly delivered 
from Elecraft upon request. Thanks to Elecraft for this sterling and 
gracious support.


I'm thinking maybe I could have saved some time with a desoldering gun. At a 
point I was worried about damage to the board when doing the parts 
uninstalling.


Must get a desoldering gun!

Alignment was tricky for me. I didn't get the hang of the calibration at 
first. Then I was baffled by the filter alignment. The manual tells all, but 
I couldn't visualize it. I was manually setting the BFO frequency from 
filter to filter. I thought I had to actually set it, but the rig actually 
resets it's BFO after a filter adjustment. All you have to do is go from 
filter to filter, make a slight adjustment, then reset to original setting, 
and then press AGC. I would change the BFO setting from filter to filter, 
not realizing the last filter I had set had changed automatically. I can't 
explain it, but I understand it a little better now. I was over-thinking the 
problem.


I'm not new to Elecraft products, since I've owned two K-1's for years. But 
I didn't build either of them. I've loved the two radios. Once, I wrote a 
review of the K-1 for eHam.com that was posted on the Elecraft web site. But 
I was late getting around to the K-2. I'm glad I went for the K-2 instead of 
building a K-1 as my first project.


In addition to the desoldering gun suggestion, I want to endorse the idea of 
an inventory in the beginning. It's no fun, for sure, but it saves time 
later. The task of identifying parts and finding them when you need them is 
one of the hardest tasks for this occasional kit builder. Without a tool for 
checking capacitance, I had to sometimes guess at which one was correct. The 
inventory helps by letting the process of elimination do it's magic. If I 
had done it in the beginning, and if I hadn't put the wrong parts in the 
first time, I could have cut five to ten hours off the construction time.


I've read here that Styrofoam is a bad idea. I'd like to be sure about that 
since is has always been a great way for me to store parts for easy access 
along the way. I wouldn't try to use it for an IC or transistor, but what 
about the other parts. Are they really in danger from Styrofoam?


One more thing. Yes, I used The Toroid Guy. The only problem I have ever had 
with a kit was a badly wound toroid. Never again if I can help it. His 
toroids were perfect.


Jimmy Walker
WA4ILO
Macon, GA 


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[Elecraft] K1 for Sale

2005-01-31 Thread Jimmy Walker
K1 Two Band HF Transceiver (30M and 17M) SN 812 with KBT1 Internal Battery 
Adapter 
I didn't built the radio, but I've used it extensively and can attest that it 
works perfectly. The radio has never been used as a portable, but the battery 
adapter works perfectly. I have two K-1's, the other with the 40/20M board and 
some additional options. I'm planning to use the sale proceeds to buy a KFL1-4 
4-Band Module the radio I'm keeping.
See my eHam review from 2003 at http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/846?page=3
I'm offering to sell for the kit price of the K1 - $289 plus shipping.
PayPal or certified funds will ship the day of receipt. 
Jimmy Walker
WA4ILO
Macon, GA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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