Re: [Elecraft] 500Hz 5-pole vs Inrad 500Hz 8-pole?

2011-01-25 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Ross,

I do not have either 500 Hz filter, but I would expect either one would work 
for the 500 Hz Olivia modes, although they might be a little tight and require 
careful centering of the signal.  I recently got the 700 Hz 8-pole Inrad filter 
(from http://unpcbs.com) specifically for the wider digital modes.  So far I'm 
happy with it.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jan 25, 2011, at 6:27 AM, Ross Primrose wrote:

 Any thoughts on the merits of one vs the other? The 5-pole filter is 
 cheaper, but they need to me matched for diversity receive, does the 
 8-pole Inrad filter not need to be matched? Is either one/both wide 
 enough for 500Hz Olivia modes?
 
 Thanks...
 
 73, Ross N4RP
 
 -- 
 FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
 transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 build sequence

2011-01-25 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Dwayne,

About the only option that gets in the way of others in the K3 is the KRX3 (the 
2nd receiver), and you didn't explicitly mention that on your list.  The 2nd RX 
must be removed to install the general coverage bandpass module in the main RX 
and to install additional filters in the main rig.  But that said, removing the 
2nd RX is about a 10 minute job, so even worst case it's not a big deal. 

Without the 2nd RX, I think you'll be astonished at how empty the K3 is inside. 
Adding options after the initial build really isn't much of a chore.  It's 
closer to replacing the gas cap than replacing the heater core on that old 
T-Bird.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Jan 25, 2011, at 4:29 PM, Dwayne Rohmer wrote:

 Later this year, I plan to order a K3/10 Kit, KAT3 internal Antenna Tuner,
 and optional filters for CW, then add the 100 Watt Upgrade, General Coverage
 RX Bandpass Module, and other options as money allows. If possible, I'd like
 to avoid major disassembly for installation of future options by installing
 them in the initial build. Lesson learned with an old Thunderbird that
 needed a heater core replaced; half the insides had to come out just to get
 to the thing; don't want to do that again.
 
 Which options, if any, require major disassembly of the K3? Eventually I'll
 need SSB and 2 meter capability.
 
 Any recommendations for a first time builder would be appreciated.
 
 73, Dwayne, KE5EFY 

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA3 Fails Calibration

2011-01-23 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Bruce,

You ARE connecting the rig to a dummy load for the calibration and not to an 
antenna, right?  (Just checking the obvious first, no offense intended.)

73
--
Joe KB8AP



On Jan 23, 2011, at 11:39 AM, Bruce James Howes wrote:

 Good suggestion Greg!
 
 Tried in manually, same issue.
 
 Think it is a power supply problem, RF may be getting into my power supply, 
 shutting it off.
 Manually I get up to 50 watts, then the K3 shuts down, fine on the other 
 bands, so not a a current draw issue.
 I'll need to lash up a battery for additional testing, but wager that is it.
 
 Will report back to the group.
 
 
 Cordially,
 Bruce J. Howes
 
 
 
 
 
 
 On Jan 23, 2011, at 2:31 PM, Greg wrote:
 
 Bruce.  Try it manually and see if it works.
 
 
 
 On Sun, Jan 23, 2011 at 11:13 AM, Bruce W1UJR w1...@mac.com wrote:
 Hello all,
 
 Just installed the KPA3 100 watt PA into my K3.
 While running through the TX Gain Calibration program in the K3 Utility I 
 received an error.
 
 Did the 5 watt cal no problem, but when it was doing the 50 MHz calibrate 
 the K3 shut off
 and displayed the error below in the K3 Utility window.
 
 Thinking this an aberration, I attempted 3 more times, each time the K3 
 shuts off during
 the 50 MHZ cal period.
 
 I used my nifty Elecraft W1 power meter to measure RF, on all bands 50+ 
 watts, the 5/6 LEDs on the W1
 were present on all bands, including 50 MHZ, as the K3 Utility runs the RF 
 test on the 50 MHz,
 the K3 shuts off.
 
 I just upgraded to the new firmware before adding the KPA3, not sure if this 
 is related to that
 or not.
 
 Suggestions?
 
 ERROR MESSAGE FROM K3 UTILITY FOLLOWS
 
 at 24.930 MHz
 Calibrating at 29.000 MHz
 Calibrating at 52.000 MHz
 StartTune: Unexpected response '' to 'TQ;'. State 139
 StopTune: Unexpected response '' to 'TQ;'. State 77
 RestoreKAT3: Unexpected response '' to 'MP;'. State 224
 RestorePower: Unexpected response '' to 'PC;'. State 87
 
 
 
 Cordially,
 Bruce J. Howes
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Line Audio Output Mod

2011-01-19 Thread Joe Planisky
Sounds like either that mod has already been done or your KIO3 board is newer 
than you think.  IIRC the original value of R19 and R20 was 600 ohms.  Adding a 
51 ohm resistor in parallel gives 47 ohms.  The newer boards have 51 ohm 
resistors in place of the 600 ohm units. 

Perhaps Elecraft should add a Does My K3 Have This Modification section to 
their older mod instructions. Most of the newer mod instructions have such a 
section that explains how to tell if the mod has already been done. 

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jan 19, 2011, at 3:24 PM, dbellw...@aol.com wrote:

 I'm really confused.  I have a KIO3A, Rev A, C 2007.  According  to the Mod 
 instructions this board should need the resistance  modification.  BEFORE I 
 began the mod, the resistance across R19 and R20  was about 51 ohms each.  
 So how can I put a 51 ohm resistor in parallel  with R19 and 20 and end up 
 with a new resistance of between 45 and 49  ohms?  Thinking there might be a 
 flaw in my thinking somewhere, I added a  leaded resistor across R20 and 
 sure enough, the resistance was now about 26  ohms, so I took it out.
 
 What gives?  Instructions wrong?  Am I missing something?   Thanks in 
 advance.
 
 73, Dave

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Re: [Elecraft] More confusion

2011-01-19 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Tom,

As you assumed, the fans are thermostatically controlled.  They don't turn on 
until the PA temperature reaches 34 degrees.  The fan test settings are just 
what they say: settings to test that the fans actually work by manually turning 
them on.  Normal operation is with the KPA3 parameter set to PA NOR.

You may want to do the PA Temperature Sensor calibration as described in the 
manual (page 51 in the older D5 manual, should be close to that page in the 
newest manuals.) 

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Jan 19, 2011, at 3:51 PM, Tommy Alderman wrote:

 I received my K3 (s/n 4521) in early August 2010 and I have never seen the
 two fans on the rear turning. My typical FP temp was pretty steady at 37C;
 my typical PA temp was pretty steady at 33C. Note, I seldom run my K3 over
 about 30 watts output because it is driving an amp. In looking at page 56 of
 my manual (Rev D7) I see in the description of KP3A-F PA fan test settings
 (PA FN1-FN4 or PAIO FN1-FN4), and ... 
 I have assumed operation of the two fans are thermostatically controlled?
 Can someone please explain the meaning of 'PA FN1-FN4' and 'PAIO FN1-FN4' ?
 I have no clue what that means! I now have KPA3 set for Fn2 and both fans
 are running and the FP temp is reading 33C while the PA temp is now reading
 27C.
 Somewhere in the manual I'm sure this must be explained to the user, but I
 can't find it.
 Thanks for any help.
 Tom - W4BQF

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Re: [Elecraft] More confusion

2011-01-19 Thread Joe Planisky
OOPS.  My mistake.  The fans turn on at 37C and turn off at 34C.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jan 19, 2011, at 4:26 PM, Joe Planisky wrote:

 Hi Tom,
 
 As you assumed, the fans are thermostatically controlled.  They don't turn on 
 until the PA temperature reaches 34 degrees.  The fan test settings are 
 just what they say: settings to test that the fans actually work by manually 
 turning them on.  Normal operation is with the KPA3 parameter set to PA NOR.
 
 You may want to do the PA Temperature Sensor calibration as described in the 
 manual (page 51 in the older D5 manual, should be close to that page in the 
 newest manuals.) 
 
 73
 --
 Joe KB8AP
 
 
 On Jan 19, 2011, at 3:51 PM, Tommy Alderman wrote:
 
 I received my K3 (s/n 4521) in early August 2010 and I have never seen the
 two fans on the rear turning. My typical FP temp was pretty steady at 37C;
 my typical PA temp was pretty steady at 33C. Note, I seldom run my K3 over
 about 30 watts output because it is driving an amp. In looking at page 56 of
 my manual (Rev D7) I see in the description of KP3A-F PA fan test settings
 (PA FN1-FN4 or PAIO FN1-FN4), and ... 
 I have assumed operation of the two fans are thermostatically controlled?
 Can someone please explain the meaning of 'PA FN1-FN4' and 'PAIO FN1-FN4' ?
 I have no clue what that means! I now have KPA3 set for Fn2 and both fans
 are running and the FP temp is reading 33C while the PA temp is now reading
 27C.
 Somewhere in the manual I'm sure this must be explained to the user, but I
 can't find it.
 Thanks for any help.
 Tom - W4BQF

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power puzzlement

2011-01-18 Thread Joe Planisky
I'm assuming he has one of these inline:

http://www.powerwerx.com/tools-meters/watts-up-meter-dc-inline.html

...not the similarly named product for AC use made by a different company.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jan 17, 2011, at 9:21 PM, Craig D. Smith wrote:

 I believe the meter you are trying to use is intended for AC powerline
 measurements.  No telling what it will do with DC.  I expect that if you
 repeat the measurement using a DVM in a DC current mode you will get a more
 meaningful result.
 
 73  Craig  AC0DS 
 
  Assuming you've checked the obvious (...nothing else connected to the
 p/s)
  Yep. The meter (Watt's Up) is in the 13.8v line in series with the K3.
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Power puzzlement

2011-01-17 Thread Joe Planisky
I get about 4.5mA with my K3/100 powered off.  Assuming you've checked the 
obvious (i.e. that there's nothing else connected to the power supply), is it 
possible your ammeter is defective or needs new batteries?

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Jan 17, 2011, at 4:12 PM, Ralph Parker wrote:

 I thought I'd check to see how much current my K3/100 draws under various
 operating condx (for battery powered QRP portable operation, etc.). 
 
 What the heck is drawing 1.7 amps when the front panel power switch is off?
 
 VE7XF

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Re: [Elecraft] Shipping costs

2011-01-12 Thread Joe Planisky
IIRC that happens when an inappropriate shipping method is chosen.  E.g. USPS 
1st class for something that weighs more than 14oz.  

Not very user friendly, but it definitely gets your attention :-)

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jan 12, 2011, at 12:11 PM, robt...@comcast.net wrote:

 Try this:
 On Elecraft's website add a KXV3A to your cart. When you go to checkout, the 
 shipping costs are $999.00!!!
 
 Oops.
 
 Robert 
 W9RKK

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PA temp widely varying ERR12v

2011-01-11 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Ron,

Yes, I would say they are related.  From the owner's manual section on 
troubleshooting transmit problems:

... low voltage may cause an erroneous temperature reading...

The ERR 12V message also indicates low voltage. 

I think you're on the right track checking the circuit breaker lugs, etc., but 
be sure to check the obvious things first, like measuring the supply voltage, 
making sure the connections on the power cord are tight, etc.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jan 11, 2011, at 6:42 AM, Ron N5QQ wrote:

 Early this SAT morning gettin gready to play in NAQP code I fired up
 both K3's, the logging PC and such. I started double checking SO2R
 setup in N1MM when all of a sudden radio #1 (K3 sn 594) flashed the
 ERR 12v message,...I looked at the PA Temp and it was wildly fluctuating
 with readings displayed such as -3 then to +30 then 5 then +35 back to
 23 then -4 then +27 and kept this , all the while in just receive
 mode

 Are these two issues related? The PA temp fluctuation is my real concern.
 
 ...

 Any comments?
 Ron
 N5QQ

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PA Temp

2011-01-09 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Fred,

According to the manual, the PA drops out at 84C, so that's clearly the upper 
limit that Elecraft thought was safe.  I routinely see PA temperatures of 60C - 
65C when running 100% modes like RTTY, PSK31, etc. into a well matched load for 
more than a minute or two.  I have performed the PA temperature calibration 
procedure with a thermometer that I trust. I am not overly concerned with temps 
in the mid 60s.

That said, there seems to be some variation in what people experience with 
regard to PA temperature.  Some folks will swear that they never see anything 
over 35C - 40C.  Others (like me) will report higher temps.  Of course, ambient 
air temperature and good air circulation play a large role, but otherwise I 
don't know the reasons for the variations.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jan 9, 2011, at 11:24 AM, Fred Jensen wrote:

 Playing around in the RTTY RU after a full effort in NAQP CW yesterday. 
  PA temp @100W gets up to about 56C while CQ'ing, so I backed off to 
 80W.  Anyone know how hot is too hot?
 
 73,
 
 Fred K6DGW

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Re: [Elecraft] OT - SMT breadboarding

2011-01-06 Thread Joe Planisky
Depending on your needs and budget, something like these might work.  

http://www.beldynsys.com/singledual.htm

True, there's no one-size-fits-all solution, but something like the P502 would 
give you a variety of patterns.

I believe Mouser and Jameco stock their products.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jan 6, 2011, at 10:32 AM, Brian Alsop wrote:

 Just how does one breadboard something with IC SMT parts having 0.025 
 (or other similarly small) lead spacing?  I have a few projects here 
 that require this.
 
 I was just thinking of gluing the chip dead bug fashion to the 
 breadboard and soldering tiny wires to the leads.
 
 The problem is that the IC's for any given project tend to have 
 differing numbers of pins and pin spacings.  No one size adapter would 
 most likely be useful.
 
 There must be a better way.
 
 73 de Brian/K3KO

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Re: [Elecraft] Filters and Configuration Questions

2011-01-05 Thread Joe Planisky
I do not know the details, but there is some sort of limitation which prevents 
the synthesizer from reliably acquiring lock with RX bandwidths greater than 
2.8 kHz.  

I ran into a firmware bug about a year and a half ago (since fixed) that was 
allowing my 13 kHz FM filter to be selected in CW mode.  The result was the RX 
would go dead intermittently when returning from TX.  At that time Wayne 
explained that the permanent fix for the problem was to correct the firmware so 
CW mode never allowed a filter  2.8 kHz to be used.

73
--
Joe KB8AP



On Jan 5, 2011, at 5:47 AM, Bob Naumann wrote:

 ...

 Regarding the 6 KHz filter, why can't it be selected to receive CW? 
 
 I think it was permitted earlier firmware- wasn't it? This one really
 puzzles me why this would be restricted. I like listening to a wide passband
 and narrowing it down only as much as necessary - sometimes 6 kHz is OK.
 
 Bob Naumann W5OV

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Re: [Elecraft] spectrogram

2010-12-30 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Jim,

I just ran the version of spectrogram from your site through virustotal.com 
which checks any submitted file with 43 different commercial anti-virus 
products.  None of the 43 virus checkers reported any problem with the file.  

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Dec 30, 2010, at 10:30 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

 Thanks for the alert, Rich, and for your report, Guy.  I would 
 appreciate any others.  If it turns out to be real, I'll take it down.
 
 73, Jim K9YC
 
 On 12/30/2010 5:42 AM, Rich - K1HTV wrote:
 Jim,
   FYI, when I downloaded the 'spectrogram.exe' file from your site I got a
 message from my Norton Security software that it contained TROJAN.ADH.

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Re: [Elecraft] spectrogram

2010-12-29 Thread Joe Planisky
Another alternative for folks running Mac OS X or Linux is Baudline, available 
at 

http://baudline.com

It is free of charge, though not open source.  Do note that it has a somewhat 
unusual user interface (at least when compared to the typical Windows or Mac 
application), so some time spent reading the manual may be necessary.  It's an 
incredibly powerful signal analysis program.  

73
--
Joe KB8AP
 
On Dec 29, 2010, at 8:09 AM, Byron Servies wrote:

 For Mac, iPhone, or iPad users may I recommend Signal Scope:
 
 http://www.faberacoustical.com/products/signalscope/
 
 73, Byron N6NUL
 
 On Wed, Dec 29, 2010 at 7:47 AM, John Cooper w...@gt.rr.com wrote:
 where can i find this software?  tried googling it but apparently the 
 company that made it went out of buiseness.

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Sudden failure of line-in?

2010-12-21 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Michael,

Thanks for the reply.  I should have posted a follow-up as I've solved the 
problem. (Actually, Greg AB7R solved it for me.  Thanks again, Greg!)

The problem was that the signal level coming out of my sound card was simply 
too low.  How did I miss such an obvious issue?  Two factors conspired to trip 
me up:

1.) I recently changed computers.  The old computer was dedicated to ham radio 
usage and I never changed the audio configuration on it.  It didn't even have 
speakers.  I never changed the computer's mixer settings so the audio level was 
always the same.  My new computer is more of a multi-purpose unit (with 
speakers), so I *do* change the audio level depending on what I'm doing at the 
moment. 

2.) The sound coming out of the K3 speakers while transmitting (i.e. the 
monitor signal) sounded roughly the same as it always had in the past, so I 
assumed that meant the audio signal level coming in was the same as it always 
had been.  It turns out that with my particular setup, the difference in how 
loud the monitor signal sounds between too little drive and just enough drive 
isn't as great as I would have expected.  Lesson learned.

73
--
Joe KB8AP




On Dec 21, 2010, at 9:18 AM, DL5OCD wrote:

 
 Did you check the Mic-gain ? It is stored for each input separately...
 
 73
 Michael
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Sudden-failure-of-line-in-tp5851894p5855735.html
 Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] [K3] Sudden failure of line-in?

2010-12-19 Thread Joe Planisky
Hey Folks,

Fired up my K3 and Fldigi today for an Olivia sked and immediately noticed that 
I was not getting any RF output.  This same setup was working fine 2 weeks ago.

Switched the meter to show ALC and saw no indication where I usually get 5 
bars.  I could hear the Olivia tones in the speakers, so I know the audio was 
getting from my sound card into the K3.  Tried adjusting the mic (line) gain 
and I can hear it making a difference in the monitor audio, but still nothing 
on the ALC meter. 

I'm running firmware version 4.22.

I verified I am in DATA / DATA A mode.

I verified I am not in SPLIT with VFO B set to a different mode.

I verified the rig is actually going into TX (i.e. the red TX light comes on)

I verified I have filters configured for use in DATA mode.

I verified that CONFIG:TX ALC was set to ON. 

I verified that SSB mode works with a mic plugged into the rear mic jack and 
MAIN:MIC SEL = RP.L.

SSB mode does NOT work with MAIN:MIC SEL = Line In.

I saved my configuration, did an EE INIT, restored the configuration.  No 
difference.

I did another EE INIT without restoring my configuration.  No difference.

I went back to beta 4.17. No difference.

I went back to beta 4.10. No difference. 

What am I missing?  Any other suggestions before I send an email to k3support? 

73
--
Joe KB8AP

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Output Power

2010-12-04 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi John,

Basically, yes; if you want to get more than 2 watts out of the KX1, you need 
an external power source.  If you look at the specs on page 5 of the manual, it 
says:

Transmitter
Max. power output (approx.)
9 V supply  1.5 - 2 W
12 V supply 3 - 4 W

The internal battery holders have space for 6 AA cells, so the best you can get 
from internal batteries (using ordinary batteries) is 1.5V x 6 = 9 V

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Dec 4, 2010, at 1:20 PM, John Overbaugh wrote:

 In researching the KX1, I thought I had read that it's possible to get 4
 watts of output. However, the manual shows 2 watts as the max from internal
 batteries. Is 4 watts possible? Does it require external batteries?
 
 -- 
 John Overbaugh
 blog: http://kf7dvj.blogspot.com
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Re: [Elecraft] noisy fans??

2010-11-21 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Bob,

This is a subject that comes up on the reflector from time to time and  
elicits a whole range of responses; from my fans are totally silent,  
to my fans are really loud.  Intrigued by the range of opinions, I  
did some research on this topic earlier this year.  It turns out that  
there were two different brands of fans used in the K3.  Early units  
used Elina brand fans, and later units used fans from UTEC.  Spec- 
wise, they are similar.  Practically, however, all the reports of loud  
fans came from units with the UTEC fans.  If you're interested in  
the details, you can search the archives for my email with the subject  
K3 fan noise, part XXLIV on May 27, 2010.  Later, I was able to  
compare rigs with both brands of fans side-by-side and confirmed that  
the Elina fans were quieter.  (Search the archives for my email with  
the subject [K3] fan noise: new info on July 2, 2010.)

But none of that is any immediate help to you.

Make sure the fans and their mounting plate sit flush and aren't  
warped. I.e. check that you didn't inadvertently install a washer  
where there shouldn't be one, and that the countersunk heads of the  
long screws that hold the fans on are seated properly.  If everything  
looks good there and you've carefully checked and confirmed that the  
fan blades aren't touching anything as they turn (which you say you  
have), it sounds like you might have one or two defective fans.   In  
that case, a call to Elecraft or an email to k3supp...@elecraft.com  
seems in order.

I consider the fans in my K3 to be moderately noisy, but they don't  
make what I would call a clicking or buzzing sound.  The noise I  
hear is a combination of a siren-like whine and a sound I can only  
describe as rough bearings.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Nov 21, 2010, at 10:25 AM, Robert Redmon wrote:

 I just finished assembling my new K3, and all is working  
 wellexcept
 that the PA fans are very noisy. Actually, the normal fan noise is not
 bad unless you set the fans to PA Fn3 or 4. However, even at the  
 lowest
 setting, they make a kind of clicking or buzzing sound that is very
 annoying. I originally thought it might have been one of the fans
 lightly touching one of the wires or cables near them, but I took the
 top off and checked and that was not the case. I don't think they made
 this noise when I did the fan test. Any suggestions?

 -- 
 73, Bob K5SM

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 LPF add-on filter

2010-11-15 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi James,

It's been some time since I bought and installed the LPF, and since  
it's not something you can put in and take out easily I can't comment  
on whether later firmware changes have reduced high frequency  
artifacts. The artifacts I was hearing back then were the aliased  
audio around the 12 kHz D/A clock, which the LPF pretty much knocked  
out.

The difference when I installed the filter was subtle, but noticeable;  
I still have SOME hearing left in the 12 kHz range :-)  I would say  
it's worth installing if either you hear the high frequency artifacts  
and they bother you, or you just want to keep your rig up-to-date with  
the latest mods, perhaps for resale reasons down the road.

Installation is pretty straight forward.  A sharp knife will do to cut  
the traces, I don't think you should get in there with a Dremel tool.   
One twitch and you could do a lot of damage.  I used an Xacto knife  
with a new blade and it was almost disturbing how easily the traces  
were cut!

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Nov 15, 2010, at 7:25 AM, James Sarte wrote:

 Good morning Elecrafters!

 It's been some time now since the K3 LPF add-on filter board was  
 released.
 I've been contemplating purchasing one since its debut as I've  
 noticed in
 the past hi-frequency DSP artifiacts, especially when listening with
 headphones.  However, as time passed and firmware improved, I don't  
 seem to
 hear so many of the things I thought I heard before.  Perhaps my  
 hearing has
 changed as well - who knows?

 So, with that said - what are people's opinions now on the LPF  
 module?  Is
 it still worth the purchase?  Can a noticeable difference be heard,
 particularly on SSB with the filter installed?

 Finally, for those who performed the install themselves, what did  
 you use to
 cut the two traces?  Will a box cutter work or should I use a dremel  
 cutting
 wheel?

 Tnx,
 James

 -- 
 73 de James K2QI
 President UNARC/4U1UN
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Kit -- VFO Tuning and Readout ??

2010-11-11 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Phil,

What you are seeing is exactly correct.  When you tap the Band switch,  
you're seeing two temporary displays (MHz, then KHz), then it  
returns to the normal frequency display for your current tuning rate.   
So, yes, the numbers change 3 times, but that 3rd time is just the rig  
returning to it's normal display.   This is explained a bit more  
clearly on page 29, right hand side, 3rd checkbox:

You can check the MHz and kHz digits at any time by tapping BAND.   
For example, if the VFO frequency is 7100.00 kHz, tapping BAND will  
first show 7, then 100, then return to the appropriate display for  
your selected tuning rate.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Nov 11, 2010, at 4:33 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:

 OK, I think I know what I am reading on the LED display but I need  
 confirmation.  I found the W1AW scheduled CW broadcasts on 7.0475  
 and now see that when I tap the button I get the following displayed  
 sequence: 7, 047, and then 47.5.  So, I see that the final is a 100  
 Hz digit place and 100 Hz tuning would likely produce this final  
 result (although I have not yet tested that).

 I think I got thrown a curve when the manual seemed to hint, no it  
 actually says, that there are TWO readouts, not THREE.

 peh

 On Nov 11, 2010, at 4:23 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:

 Question For you KX1 experts...

 I am in the process of building a KX1 and I am currently doing the  
 Receiver Alignment as described on page 45 of the manual.

 I am stuck.  I don't understand the VFO frequency readout.  My KX1  
 is behaving differently then the description in the manual and I am  
 not sure what kind of mistake I am making or if there is something  
 wrong with the KX1 at this stage (although, all tests and  
 functionality have shown to be OK up until this point).

 Here is the problem.  The manual says (page 64) that when you tap  
 the BAND button that the LED readout will the frequency, first  
 showing the MHz, then KHz.  Then, it says that L or U are added in  
 LSB or USB modes.

 But, when I tap the BAND button, I get the MHz readout of 7 then I  
 get two readouts following that as 080 and then 80.0 and only on  
 this third number display is the decimal point lit up.  Thus,  
 tapping the BAND button displays 7, then 080, and then 80.0.  Now,  
 I can use the VFO Tune to adjust this final number but I am not  
 sure why I am getting three numbers whereas the manual says that I  
 would get two.

 Also, I don't see how to pick a particular frequency as the VFO  
 Tune control and the LED readout do not seem to correspond in a  
 manner that makes sense.  So, I am missing something.

 For example, if the frequency were something like 7.058 then I  
 would expect the first number to be 7, the second number to be 058.

 Can someone set me straight?

 73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Tuning problem from 1485 to 1585 kHz (AM broadcast)

2010-10-11 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Bob.

Try rerunning the synthesizer calibration procedure as described in  
the Calibration Procedures section of the manual (page 49 in the D5  
revision).

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Oct 10, 2010, at 9:38 PM, Wright, Robert wrote:

 I was DXing the AM broadcast band tonight with my K3 when I noticed  
 that
 the received frequency stopped moving as I tuned from 1485 to 1585  
 kHz.
 The dial frequency (VFO-A) continues to change but the received signal
 does not change.  This seems to happen in both AM and SSB modes.  Has
 anyone else noticed this or is this a problem unique to my K3?
 ...


 Bob, N7ZO

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: RE: Constant Level Line Out Monitor of Xmit Audio

2010-09-29 Thread Joe Planisky
 From the hfwnotes.rtf:

MCU 2.72 / DSP 1.98, 12-9-2008

Misc. Changes:

* LINE OUT INCLUDES TX AUDIO: LINE OUT (nor menu setting) now includes
transmit sidetone and speech/data monitor audio.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Sep 29, 2010, at 7:27 AM, Wright, Robert wrote:

 Did the K3 feature of monitoring transmit audio on line out without
 having to monitor through the speakers (or headphones) ever get
 implemented?

 There was a discussion on this back in 2009, but I haven't found
 anything recent in this list or in hfwnotes.rtf.

 My main application is for recording both sides of an SSB or CW
 conversation (via line out) without having to hear myself through the
 speakers.

 Bob, N7ZO
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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: Apple/Mac logging program

2010-09-29 Thread Joe Planisky
Depends on what you mean by suitable.

I like Aether ( http://www.aetherlog.com ) because it's relatively  
simple and doesn't (yet) try to be an all-in-one package.

Not free (in any sense of the word), but affordable at US$39.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Sep 29, 2010, at 8:42 AM, J FRANCIS wrote:





 Have recently aquired an Apple/Mac
 computer to use with my K3 setup.  Anyone know of
 suitable logging program that I can use with the Apple/Mac
 computer

 73

 John G3LWI

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 level accuracy

2010-09-27 Thread Joe Planisky
Which do you suppose is inaccurate: the XG-2 or the P3?

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Sep 27, 2010, at 11:22 AM, Stephen Prior wrote:

 Hi Geoff

 I've had several replies, all report the XG-2's -73dBm level to be  
 between
 about -78dBm and -80dBm on the P3, so it's at least consistent, and  
 will, no
 doubt receive Elecraft's attention in due course!

 73 Stephen


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Re: [Elecraft] Mounting the Battery Holders in the KX-1

2010-09-27 Thread Joe Planisky
I ran into exactly the same problem building my KX1.  It seemed like  
the screws provided with the kit were just too short; only a turn or  
two of the thread was engaging (and immediately stripping out.)

I had some longer 2-56 screws and verified that there was still good  
thread in the holes.  I was able to make it work by carefully trimming  
the longer screws to just the right length with a Dremel tool.  The  
longer screws fully engaged all the threads in the holes and hold the  
battery holders securely.

73
--
Joe KB8AP



On Sep 27, 2010, at 7:03 PM, Phil Barnes-Roberts WA6DZS wrote:

 (With photos, too large for the reflector)
 The Problem:
 http://wa6dzs.blogspot.com/2010/09/mounting-battery-holders-in-kx-1.html 
 
 The Fix:
 http://wa6dzs.blogspot.com/2010/09/fix-mounting-battery-holders-in-kx-1.html 
 

 -- 
 '---O=o=O---'
 73, Phil Barnes-Roberts WA6DZS  DM04we | Mailto:pbarnrob at ACM dot  
 org
 42 is not an answer, it's an error code.  The universe is saying
 'Error 42: meaning to universe not found'  --DoctorMO,  
 ubuntuforums.org


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Re: [Elecraft] FSK power

2010-09-23 Thread Joe Planisky
There seems to be some variation in this.  I often run around 70W and  
the temp usually tops out around 60 - 65C.  It's gone as high as 72C  
on a warm day.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Sep 23, 2010, at 1:03 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

 ...
 some of us have done the brick on key thing at 110 watts for a long  
 time,
 and watched the temp level out in the 50's.  Fan comes on, goes to  
 high, and
 blows a lot of reasonably warm air out.
 ...

 73, Guy.

 On Thu, Sep 23, 2010 at 3:10 PM, Mark n2qt n...@verizon.net wrote:

 I've become a firm believer in air flow during rtty contests
 Mark n2qt


 NR4C wrote:

 Now, one more. How much power can I safely use with FSK? I have  
 made
 several contacts so far at about 50 watts. Can I use more?
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Re: [Elecraft] FSK power

2010-09-23 Thread Joe Planisky
Do note that the 72C reading was on a day when it was probably around  
32C (90F) in the shack.  Normal summertime temps in the shack are  
closer to 27C (80F).  Otherwise:

 Are your fans running at max at that temp?

Oh yes.  They kick into leaf blower mode around 55C.

 Do the fans blow out to the rear or pull air in?

Blows out the back.

 What is your supply voltage showing on DISP under full load.


13.6V

 Have you done the temperature calibration per the manual,

Yep.  The rig and a thermocouple in my DMM usually agree within +/- 1C  
at startup.

 and the power calibration.

Yes, but just to make sure I ran it again just now.  70W requested  
gives me about 63W into a dummy load (as measured with my oscilloscope.)

You didn't ask, but yes, I'm adjusting my audio input for 5 bars on  
the ALC meter.

Someone else asked about restricted airflow.  The rig sits on an open  
shelf by itself with about 18 inches of clear space behind it and  
nothing but the ceiling about 4 feet above it.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Sep 23, 2010, at 6:48 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

 No, I don't think that is normal variation.  72C is 162F.   I think  
 that is
 too high and reflects something else.  You would be well served to  
 chase
 that down.

 Are your fans running at max at that temp? Do the fans blow out to  
 the rear
 or pull air in? What is your supply voltage showing on DISP under full
 load.  Have you done the temperature calibration per the manual, and  
 the
 power calibration.  (One soul due to an error was putting out 110  
 when he
 was set to 60.  He too was getting over temps besides his power woes  
 of only
 going up to an indicated 90 watts.)

 73, Guy.

 On Thu, Sep 23, 2010 at 5:28 PM, Joe Planisky jp...@jeffnet.org  
 wrote:

 There seems to be some variation in this.  I often run around 70W  
 and the
 temp usually tops out around 60 - 65C.  It's gone as high as 72C on  
 a warm
 day.

 73
 --
 Joe KB8AP

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Re: [Elecraft] 700 Hz roofing filters

2010-09-21 Thread Joe Planisky
They should be a pretty good choice for the wider digital modes (e.g.  
Olivia 500/16).

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Sep 21, 2010, at 1:18 PM, Karl Marderian wrote:

 Why are these so popular? Please don't tell me they are being used  
 for ssb.
 Just asking.
 N6XVT Karl


 Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] K2, KAT2‏ and P6

2010-09-20 Thread Joe Planisky
KAT2 manual. page 15, third checkbox from the top:

Install and solder the 2-pin male connector at P6 on
the K2 RF board, as shown by its outline on the
right-hand edge. (P6 is labeled AUX RF. Do not
confuse P6 with P3, which is labeled AUX 12V.)
P6 must be oriented so that its plastic polarizing
tab is towards the front panel of the K2.

It's in the KAT2 parts list as RF-P6.

Here's a picture of the connector from the Digikey site:

http://media.digikey.com/photos/Molex/26-61-4020.jpg?cshift_ck=nullclient_id=5042

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Sep 20, 2010, at 7:27 AM, Ian Liston-Smith wrote:


 ...

 Well I've looked through the KAT2 manual for info about P6 but not  
 found any reference. I did a Find: P6 search on the KAT2 pdf  
 manual: nothing.

 So... what does this P6 look like and which way should it be  
 installed? Presumably it's in the KAT2 bag of bits somewhere.
 ...

 Thanks and regards,

 Ian, G4JQT

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[Elecraft] [KX1] Xtal Filter Performance?

2010-08-22 Thread Joe Planisky
I just finished building my KX1, including the KXAT1 and KXB3080  
modules.  (The KXB3080 is probably the most challenging kit item I've  
ever built and installed! There are only 19 parts, how hard could it  
be? ;-)

Anyway, everything with the rig seems to be working, but I've noticed  
the filtering of the unwanted sideband is a bit less than I expected.   
With my XG2 signal generator connected to the antenna input, I can  
hear a 1uV signal on both sides of zero beat.  The desired side is  
clearly louder than the undesired side, and with normal band noise I  
probably wouldn't notice the undesired side.  However, a 50uV signal  
(S9) is very clearly copyable on the unwanted side.

I realize that the 3 pole variable bandwidth filter in the KX1 isn't  
going to provide the same performance as the filters in my K3, but  
still, I wonder if what I'm hearing is normal.

Can anyone with experience with the KX1 comment on whether or not this  
is normal?

Tnx  73
--
Joe KB8AP

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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1] Xtal Filter Performance?

2010-08-22 Thread Joe Planisky
Thanks Wayne.  I suspected it was normal since everything else seems  
to be working FB.

I still get a thrill from working coast-to-coast on 6 AA batteries!   
(First QSO was 2300 miles :-)

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Aug 22, 2010, at 5:57 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

 Hi Joe,

 This is normal. A 3-crystal filter at ~5 MHz will definitely allow  
 some opposite-sideband leakthrough, especially when lightly loaded.  
 If you dial the bandwidth way down, the leakthrough will be lessened.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR


 Joe Planisky wrote:

 ...I've noticed
 the filtering of the unwanted sideband is a bit less than I  
 expected

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: the gods must be crazy

2010-08-20 Thread Joe Planisky
Something like that (a glow-in-the-dark trim ring for the tuning knob)  
could actually be useful on the KX1.  Just the thing to make it easy  
to find the rig in total darkness without putting additional drain on  
the batteries.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Aug 20, 2010, at 5:48 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:

 1.  When I was a kid (a long time ago), TenTec was known as the CW
 man's radio.
 2.  As tubes faded away, the lament often heard was real radios glow
 in the dark.

 Well, check out tentec.com

 1.  They now say, The SSB Company  

 2.  You won't believe their approach to glow in the dark radios.
 Wonder how Elecraft will face this unique approach

 I guess you can never tell what marketing approach will work.  :-)

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 inline fuse

2010-08-13 Thread Joe Planisky
One thing that hasn't been mentioned is that the K3 has a built-in 6A  
fuse for the basic rig and a separate 20A circuit breaker for the  
KPA3.  So it's not like there's no protection at all between the APP  
connector and the internal circuits.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Aug 13, 2010, at 9:02 AM, Willis wrote:

 The transistor is the most probable reason for the fuse blowing but  
 the fuse may save the other components and semi conductors as well  
 as the circuit board.  The original query stated he would be using  
 an Astron 35 which has a current limiter but limiting the current to  
 35 amps will still allow a lot of damage.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 13, 2010, at 9:55, gdaug...@stanford.edu wrote:

 Ian wrote...

 The other important point is that fuses provide ZERO protection  
 until
 AFTER they have blown. In the life and death of a semiconductor,  
 even a
 few milliseconds is a very long time indeed.

 I like to tell the story about a series of tests we did when I  
 worked at Fairchild, in
 Silicon Valley.  Our little VHF silicon transistors were very  
 expensive, and quite
 fragile.  We tested many fuses to identify which one(s) would be  
 suitable protection
 for the transistors.  To summarize:  transistors are a very  
 effective way of protecting
 fuses!

 73,

 George T Daughters, K6GT
 CU in the California QSO Party (CQP)
 October 2-3, 2010


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Re: [Elecraft] who got P3 sn 44???

2010-08-10 Thread Joe Planisky
You know, sooner or later this practice is going to backfire.  Someone  
is going to swap, say, SN 150 for SN 50.  Then Elecraft is going to  
come out with a hardware mod that applies only to units with SN   
100.  Pretty unlikely for units a few numbers apart, but there IS a  
point to having specific numbers associated with specific hardware.

I wonder if the SN is programmed into the P3 firmware like it is in  
the K3?

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Aug 10, 2010, at 9:08 AM, ny9h wrote:

 my P3 sn # is one off from my radio  #44 #...@#%$#@^%$

 whomever got # 44would ya swap labels sn for   # 43 

 tnx for the trivial waste of everyone 's time

 bill

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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supply

2010-08-08 Thread Joe Planisky
Couldn't agree more!

I've resolved that I simply will not buy another piece of radio  
equipment that has fans.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Aug 8, 2010, at 10:30 AM, Steve Ellington wrote:

 No Fan please Figure out a way to cool it with heat sinks but  
 please no
 more fans.

 Steve
 N4LQ
 - Original Message -
 From: Nicholas Farrar nfar...@bfpacs.com
 To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Sunday, August 08, 2010 12:24 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Power Supply


 Would anyone be interested in an Elecraft DC power supply? It would  
 look
 nice to have a powersupply that matches my K3!

 ...

 Would any one be interested either model? Any thoughts? Looking for  
 Hams
 with an opinion.

 --
 Nicholas W. Farrar
 Network Engineer / IT Coordinator

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Now I've heard everything

2010-07-14 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Wes,

Meant to reply earlier but got distracted.

Yes, my PA definitely sings with the 2-tone generator on.  Like  
yours it's somewhat dependent on power level.  Unlike yours, I can  
hear mine down to about 2.0w (albeit at a reduced level when the PA  
drops out.)

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jul 12, 2010, at 10:25 AM, Wes Stewart wrote:

 ...I can hear the two tones acoustically emanating from the PA. The  
 level is somewhat proportional to RF power and goes away completely  
 when the power is reduced to the point where the PA drops out.

 Can anyone else confirm or deny that their PA talks back to them?

 Wes  N7WS

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Re: [Elecraft] Short QSO's (was Re: 6M CW)

2010-07-08 Thread Joe Planisky
I've had good luck finding rag chews using the Olivia mode.  Olivia is  
a digital MFSK mode that works very well in poor conditions.  Because  
it uses lots of redundancy when sending data, it's slower than many  
other digital modes.  (The most common sub-mode, 500/16, sends  
characters at about 19.5 WPM).  This slowness seems to make it  
unpopular with the RST-QTH-Name-73 crowd.  Ironically, the slow speed  
also seems to encourage rag chewing.  At least that's been my  
experience.   My theory is that if you're patient enough to use  
Olivia, your the kind of person who doesn't mind stopping to chat for  
a while :-)

Do a Google search for olivia ham radio and you'll find lots of info  
on it.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jul 8, 2010, at 7:04 PM, Don Cunningham wrote:

 ...I spend DAYS looking for a good, RTTY ragchew, unless one of
 my old friends shows up on frequency.  ... I thought maybe it was
 a change in technology, so geared up for PSK, but got the very same  
 name,
 location, gear, bye, CUL QSO's there too. ...
 Don, WB5HAK

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Re: [Elecraft] Good side cutter pliers for PC board assembly

2010-07-07 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Pete,

I have both the Xcelite 170M shear cutters that Don mentioned and a  
pair of Xcelite MS54-5J flush cutters. Both work well.

Note that the 170M is a shear cutter.  That means that the cutting  
edges of the blades look ever so slightly mis-aligned so that one  
cutting edge slightly overlaps the other.  Wires are actually sliced  
all the way through instead of being pinched off.  That means the  
clipped off wire ends don't go flying across the room, and there's  
less mechanical shock delivered to the component.

The Xcelite MS54-5J cutters are the conventional flush-cut dikes.   
Since the cutting edges exactly meet in the center, it pinches the  
wire off and can cause the clipped end to go flying.  However, it  
produces a cleaner looking result than the shear cutters.

The 170M is cheap: around $5.00 vs around $16.00 for the MS54-5J.

The 170M probably won't take as much abuse as the MS54-5J.

73
--
Joe KB8AP



On Jul 7, 2010, at 12:54 PM, Pete Smith wrote:

 ... I am looking
 for a good pair of small side cutter pliers ... to use in PC board  
 assembly.
 -- 
 73, Pete N4ZR

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[Elecraft] [K3] fan noise: new info

2010-07-02 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Folks,

A couple months ago I conducted an informal survey of K3 fan noise  
opinions here on the reflector.  That survey turned up the fact that 2  
different brands and models of fans were used on the KPA3 (100W module  
for the K3): Elina HDF6015L-12LB-1 and UTEC AT6015L-12L2B-ND2 and  
ND5.   The Elina fans seemed to be on earlier serial number units (  
900 or so) and the UTECs appeared on later serial numbers.  The  
numbers of reports I received were:

UTEC Quiet   3
UTEC Loud:   4
Elina Quiet: 6
Elina Loud:  0

The lack of loud Elina reports was intriguing.

I now have 2 K3s on my bench, one with UTEC fans and the other with  
Elina fans, so I can do an apples-to-apples comparison of the fan  
noise in the same environment.

Between these two particular units, the Elina fans are indeed quieter  
than the UTEC fans.  From my operating position in a quiet room (i.e.  
no computer fans running, no audio coming from the speakers, etc.), I  
can just barely detect any sound from the Elina fans at the lowest  
speed.  The UTEC fans are very clearly audible at the lowest speed.

At higher speeds, the Elinas are audible, but much less so than the  
UTEC fans at the same speeds.  The Elina fan sound is also lacking the  
siren whine and bearing noise qualities that I hear with my UTEC  
fans.  Most of the sound from the Elina fans is the white noise of the  
air flow.

So to all of those who claimed your fans were virtually silent,  I  
believe you.  I've heard it now (or rather, NOT heard it) with my own  
ears.

I've not yet found a source for single quantities of the Elina fans.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


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Re: [Elecraft] rather provocative advert from Kenwood

2010-07-02 Thread Joe Planisky
Congratulations to Wayne, Eric, and the whole Elecraft team!  One of  
the big three have publicly declared the K3 to be the one to beat.   
When your competitors start knocking you by name in their  
advertisements, you know you've made it.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Jul 2, 2010, at 1:43 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:

 https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0Bw6A6YLa6L3rZjhjNWRiMGUtODZiMi00OWM3LTljYmItNWM3ODY2YWU0YjVihl=enauthkey=CLe25YAE

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 fan noise, part XXLIV

2010-07-02 Thread Joe Planisky
That's a 12MB (medium speed), not a 12LB (low speed).  3700 RPM max vs  
2800 RPM max.  Not the same thing.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jul 2, 2010, at 6:11 PM, Steve Ellington wrote:

 Google brings up many sources for Elina. Here's one:
 http://www.myofficesupplyzone.com/2-193870011-B0038OT78G-Elina_HDF6015L12MB__60_x_60_x_15_mm_236_x_236_x_059_inches_12_Volt_Cooling_Fan

 Steve
 N4LQ

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Re: [Elecraft] my K3 F/D experience

2010-06-29 Thread Joe Planisky
Yep, it's already there (although not settable from the K3 Utility).   
 From the FW release notes:

MCU 3.19 / DSP 2.17, 6-14-2009

* POWER-RELATED CONTROL LOCK: The PWR, MIC, and CMP controls
can be locked by tapping '1' in CONFIG:PWR_SET. This is useful in
some contests, such as Field Day, where a carefully-set up K3 might be
used by multiple operators. Accessing a locked control flashes  
LOCKED. SPD/DELAY/MON functions are still accessible. Tapping a  
locked knob still
displays the current parameter value, even though you can't change it.

(Of course, there's nothing to stop an op who knows the secret from  
simply unlocking the controls.)

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jun 29, 2010, at 6:25 AM, Paul Christensen wrote:

 ...
 Probably not too SSB-neighborly that way.  Not sure if this is already
 implemented, but I could almost see a need for maximum PWR and Tx
 compression settings, controlled only through the K3 utility  
 software where
 those parameters could be set to some temporary maximum value -- say  
 100W
 for stand-alone K3s and ...~35W for use with amps on contest  
 weekends where
 the K3 may be shared among several button-happy operators.   Locking  
 down
 those parameters and making them only adjustable through utility  
 software
 might be enough keep guest ops from experimenting with controls that  
 can do
 the most harm on the bands.

 Paul, W9AC

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Re: [Elecraft] FM Demod Problem with K3 + K144XV

2010-06-28 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Alan,

When you do finally figure out the cause, I hope you'll post your  
findings to the list.  Almost no one has one off problems.  If it  
happened to you, chances are good that it has happened or will happen  
to someone else, and this email reflector is one of the first places  
most folks search for guidance.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jun 28, 2010, at 2:24 PM, Alan, K6IV wrote:


 Ken,

 I tried adjusting the squelch, but it didn't seem to make any  
 difference.

 Wayne suggested that I contact Elecraft directly.  Mark, AD5SS,  
 suggested to
 try k3supp...@elecraft.com for official elecraft support in the  
 future.

 Sorry to bother the mailing list with what is probably a one off  
 problem.

 73s,
 Alan K6IV
 -- 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 DSP?

2010-06-23 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Cleve,

I have a K2 with the DSP option installed.  In my opinion, the KDSP2  
is nice to have but is not essential to get good performance out of  
the K2.   I occasionally use the NR functionality and the built-in  
clock, but rarely use the audio filtering.  I suppose if the K2 was my  
main rig, I might use the DSP features more.  In my case, the K2 is my  
backup and portable rig, so it doesn't get heavy use anymore.

One unique feature of the KDSP2 is that the DSP code for it is open  
source, so you can write your own DSP code for it if that's where your  
interests lie.

Keep in mind that you can always add it later, and used modules do  
show up here from time to time.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jun 23, 2010, at 10:40 AM, W5CEM wrote:


 Getting closer to ordering a K2...the www page says NOW WITH DSP?   
 Do I order
 the DSP board or not?  Inquiring minds want to know...

 tnx...

 cleve/W5CEM
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-DSP-tp5214408p5214408.html
 Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] V3.97 NR/AGC Glitch?

2010-06-21 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Brian,

It's always been like that.  The manual says NR is not applicable in  
DATA and FM modes, or with AGC turned off.  When you say it did not  
return when a more slow or fast AGC was selected, I assume you mean  
it didn't automatically turn itself back on when you re-enabled AGC.   
Again, that's how it's always worked.

73
--
Joe KB8AP



On Jun 21, 2010, at 1:29 PM, Brian Alsop wrote:

 Was operating on 17M SSB with NR on.  Went to change AGC setting.   
 When
 it cycled through AGC off, the NR turned off.  It did not return  
 when a
 more slow or fast AGC was selected.

 Don't know if newest firmware has this feature or not.

 73 de Brian/K3KO

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Re: [Elecraft] my VFO-A is tied to RIT knob

2010-06-13 Thread Joe Planisky
Yes, it's a feature.

Set CONFIG:VFO OFS to Off  to disable it.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jun 13, 2010, at 2:33 PM, Felipe Ceglia wrote:

 Hello,

 Dont know what happpened here, but my RIT/XIT knob, with rit/xit
 disabled (no green or red led lit),  is controlling VFO-A (big
 frequency display).

 Is this a feature? How do I disable it?

 73,

 Felipe - PY1NB
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Re: [Elecraft] Intermod or mixing?

2010-06-12 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Larry,

I assume you've tried playing with different settings of both the IF  
and DSP noise blankers.  If not, by all means try it and use the least  
aggressive settings that make the situation tolerable.

I'm not sure how the DSP NB works, but the IF NB works by essentially  
shutting off the signal path in the IF stage for the duration of the  
noise pulse.  For relatively infrequent pulses, these brief blank  
spots in the received signal aren't very noticeable to our ears.   
However, if the blanking action is frequent (either because of the  
nature of the noise or because the threshold is set too low), the  
blanker effectively becomes a mixer combining the desired signal at  
the IF frequency with the frequency of the noise pulses (and harmonics  
thereof, etc.)  When this happens, you'll hear distortion and  
intermod just as you've described.  I'm afraid it's the nature of  
the beast.

Your best bet in the long run is to find and fix the source of the  
noise.  A distant second best is backing off the NB settings to find a  
compromise between the noise and the intermod that's at least tolerable.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Jun 12, 2010, at 2:34 PM, Larry Godek wrote:

 I've got some local noise around here that sounds like a water  
 heater or sorts or something along that line.  Anyway it's really  
 giving me fits on 6 meters.  I ahve to run the NB almost all the  
 time and that distorts the signals and sometimes it doesn't even  
 clean up the noise.  Doesn't matter if i use the preamp, attenuator,  
 Noise reduction or what.  Plus when i turn the NB on i get all sorts  
 of crap from SSb signals 40 plus kc up in the band.  If i turn the  
 NB off the SSb crud is gone.  I operate mostly in the CW portion of  
 the band.  When the NB is off i don't ahve this problem. Other than  
 finding the noise out there in the 0-90 degree quadrant anyone have  
 any idea as to whats going on?  I'm really getting sick of the SSb  
 crud showing up when the NB is on down in the CW portion of the  
 band.  I only have one antenna hooked to the radio.  What else can i  
 tell you?

 Larry
 W0OGH

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 fan noise, part XXLIV

2010-05-30 Thread Joe Planisky
Thanks for the responses, folks.  I've got all the info I need for the  
moment.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On May 27, 2010, at 11:28 AM, Joe Planisky wrote:

 Since the responses to my inquiry about K3 fan brands/models have
 virtually stopped, I thought I'd post the results.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 fan noise, part XXLIV

2010-05-29 Thread Joe Planisky
That assumes that the airflow is the predominant source of noise.  In  
my case, the airflow noise is secondary to what I believe is bearing  
noise.  At low speeds, this motor noise is what I hear mostly.  It  
is the same across 2 sets of UTEC fans.

I've posted a recording of my K3 fans at http://www.jeffnet.org/~jplan  
if you're curious about what it sounds like.  (note: I'm not sure the  
embedding works, so there's also a download link.  It's a 4.1MB WAV  
file.)  That recording was made with an AKG C1000 mic about 2 feet  
directly in front of the K3, about where my head would be when  
operating.  Use headphones to get the full effect.

Of course, we can't tell anything about how loud it actually sounds  
from that recording since we have no idea of the gain between my mic  
and your ears.  I'm posting that recording to give an idea of the  
quality of the sound, not how loud it is.

I'd like to try a quality fan with sleeve bearings.  Sleeve bearings  
don't last as long as ball bearings, but they are quieter.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On May 29, 2010, at 3:31 AM, Tom W8JI wrote:

 That isn't surprising. Fan mounts, although people really
 like to mess with them, almost never have a noticeable
 effect on noise.

 Other than the design of the fan itself, the number one
 thing that affects noise is having an object near the blades
 (especially out near the tips). Restricting the airflow also
 doesn't help. The worse thing to do for a given amount of
 restriction is place it on the fan inlet.

 I haven't played with a K3,  but cutting some thick spacers
 to move the fans outward from the PA might be worth a try.
 Cheap sound meters are readily available, and a good way to
 test.

 73 Tom

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 fan noise, part XXLIV

2010-05-27 Thread Joe Planisky
Since the responses to my inquiry about K3 fan brands/models have  
virtually stopped, I thought I'd post the results.  There are indeed  
at least 2 different fans in use in K3s:

Elina HDF6015L-12LB-1 and UTEC AT6015L-12L2B-ND2 and ND5

The Elina fans are made by Inaba Denki Sangyo, a Japanese company.   
You can find specs for this fan at 
http://www.europeanthermodynamics.com/FansBlowers/elina%20fan_eng.pdf

The UTEC fans are made by United Thermal Engineering Corp. Their  
office is in San Jose, CA. but their factories are in Japan, Taiwan,  
and China. 
http://www.utecusa.com/products/pdffiles/pid_1-45-152_%28SPEC%29AT6015L-12L2B%20ND1%2812-22-08%29.pdf

According to the published specs, the UTEC fans have a slightly higher  
rated speed (3000 rpm vs 2800 rpm), more airflow (15.4 cfm vs 10.6  
cfm), higher static pressure (2.21mm vs 1.5mm),and higher noise (24.8  
dBA vs 21 dBA) than the Elina fans.  They also operate over a wider  
range of voltages than the Elina fans (6-13.8v vs 10.2-13.8v).  Both  
use ball bearings.  Based just on the specs, I would expect the UTEC  
fans to be slightly more powerful and slightly louder.

 From the responses I received, it looks like the Elina fans were used  
on earlier K3s with serial numbers  900 or so.

I received responses from 13 people (including myself), covering 13  
K3s.  If the reporter used words or phrases like quiet, silent,  
never hear them, I counted their response as quiet.  If they used  
words or phrases like loud, annoying, I can hear them, I counted  
their response as loud

UTEC Quiet   3
UTEC Loud:   4
Elina Quiet: 6
Elina Loud:  0

With such a small sample of self-reported anecdotes of a subjective  
perception, the results of this little survey are statistically  
virtually meaningless.  However, they do suggest a direction for  
further research in that no one reported loud Elina fans.

I may have a chance to do some side-by-side comparisons between my K3  
and an earlier SN K3 in a few weeks.  If that turns up anything  
interesting, I'll report it here.

Thanks to everyone who took the time and effort to respond to my  
request.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On May 23, 2010, at 9:19 AM, Joe Planisky wrote:

 The topic of K3 fan noise seems to come up every now and then, and
 each time it does there's a chorus of people who say the fans in their
 K3 are absolutely silent, and an equal chorus of people who say the
 fans are clearly audible.

 ...

 However, I'm also wondering if Elecraft has changed brands or models
 of fans from time to time.  It's possible that some brands/models
 might be quieter than others.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3:DSP Upgrade well worth it

2010-05-23 Thread Joe Planisky
See http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_parts.htm#K3%20Parts

Look for K3DSPUPGD

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On May 23, 2010, at 8:31 AM, Tom W8JI wrote:

 What serial numbers does this apply to

 What is changed?


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[Elecraft] [K3] K3 fan noise, part XXLIV

2010-05-23 Thread Joe Planisky
The topic of K3 fan noise seems to come up every now and then, and  
each time it does there's a chorus of people who say the fans in their  
K3 are absolutely silent, and an equal chorus of people who say the  
fans are clearly audible.

I'm in the latter camp. I hate fan noise and I can clearly hear the  
fans on my K3 even at the lowest speed.

I recognize that people's perception of noise depends on many things:  
other ambient noise in the environment, personal hearing acuity, how  
the equipment is placed on the desk, what kind of surface is  
immediately behind it, etc. etc.

However, I'm also wondering if Elecraft has changed brands or models  
of fans from time to time.  It's possible that some brands/models  
might be quieter than others.

The fans in my K3 are made by UTEC and have model numbers of

 AT6015L-12L2B-ND2 and same prefix-ND5

I would be interested in hearing from others who care to check the  
brand and model # of their fans, and whether you perceive them to be  
quiet or not.

It's probably best if we don't clutter the list with fan brands and  
models, so please reply to me directly and I'll post a summary of my  
findings in a few days.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RF Gain calibration

2010-04-24 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Ian,

Some earlier versions of the K3 Utility for Mac and Linux would  
produce the symptoms you describe. If you're using a Mac or Linux box  
to do the procedure and don't have the latest version of the K3  
Utility, I would recommend updating the K3 Utility and trying the gain  
calibration again.   If you ARE using the latest Mac/Linux K3 Utility,  
I would suggest trying the calibration using the Windows version if  
you have access to a Windows machine.

If none of the above applies to you, then I don't know what else to  
suggest.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Apr 24, 2010, at 5:36 AM, Ian Maude wrote:

 Hi all,
 I have been playing with the RF gain calibration procedure on my  
 K3.  I have
 used my XG1 as a signal source after fitting a new battery :)
 What I found had surprised me.  If I turn down the RF gain, I cannot
 completely lose a signal.  The RF gain will not move the s-meter  
 about about
 s7.  Now obviously the rig is much more quiet but it seems to me  
 that this
 is incorrect.  If I use the factory default settings, the RF gain  
 acts in
 the way I would have expected.  I am fairly confident that the XG1  
 is OK.
 That is I see s9 on several rigs for 50uV.
 I would appreciate your thoughts :)

 73 Ian

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500

2010-04-19 Thread Joe Planisky
I don't understand the too quiet comment, if it's intended to be  
serious.

As for the unwanted modulations, that's probably why they've chosen  
a toroidal power transformer.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Apr 19, 2010, at 9:05 AM, Jerry T. Dowell wrote:

 And too quiet!

 It would not be advisable to operate a linear supply in close  
 proximity to
 the K3 or the K2. The resulting unwanted modulations have been  
 discussed
 previously.

 Jerry  AI6L

 -Original Message-
 From: Bob McGraw - K4TAX [mailto:rmcg...@blomand.net]
 Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 3:02 PM
 To: Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; m0...@alphadene.co.uk; d...@w3fpr.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500

 I'll pass on linear supplies.  Too heavy, too inefficient.

 73
 Bob, K4TAX

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Re: [Elecraft] My feelings

2010-04-19 Thread Joe Planisky
G!  This is driving me nuts.  Don did NOT out someones call!!!   
The person in question put his callsign in the subject line of the  
message.  Foxjazz did that himself.  Don didn't do it.  All Don did  
was look up the call on QRZ.com to associate a name with the call.

I WILL continue to come to the defense of someone here when they're  
accused of doing something they clearly did not do.

--
Joe KB8AP


On Apr 19, 2010, at 9:37 AM, The Smiths wrote:

 Don made a simple mistake of outing someone's call sign and name  
 on the group, as do many other people here.
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500

2010-04-19 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Tom,

Please expand on your comment.  I had the same thought as Vic.  Why  
wouldn't a toroidal power transformer have less magnetic field  
coupling to external circuits than a conventional E/I core transformer?

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Apr 19, 2010, at 5:38 PM, Tom W8JI wrote:

 Don't bet on it.   :-)


 
 - Original Message -
 From: Vic K2VCO v...@rakefet.com
 Obviously I haven't tried it (!) but I suspect that the
 external magnetic field from a
 toroidal transformer is much less extensive than that of the
 usual laminated type.



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Re: [Elecraft] k2 pll and ref osc issues n0xdb

2010-04-18 Thread Joe Planisky
Do note that Foxjazz himself included his call in the subject line  
of the post that started this thread.  Not the usual place to be sure,  
but I doubt his intention in doing so was to remain anonymous.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Apr 17, 2010, at 11:58 PM, The Smiths wrote:

 For you to not only give out someone's call sign, but to actually go  
 as far as print out their entire name for everyone on this group to  
 read,
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[Elecraft] My goodness!

2010-04-18 Thread Joe Planisky
Elecraft announces a 500W amplifier and there's a sudden outbreak of  
uncivility on the reflector.

I guess it's true what they say: Power corrupts

--
Joe KB8AP
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500

2010-04-16 Thread Joe Planisky
Nah.  It'll be 500 2N's.  Wayne had a bunch left over from some  
QRP projects and had to find a way to get rid of them.  :-)

33-1/3
--
Joe KB8AP



On Apr 16, 2010, at 2:28 PM, Paul Christensen wrote:

 I would also think it will be built around MRF-150 FET's?

 Four years ago, the prototype KPA800 used eight APT ARF 463  
 transistors
 (four per RF board).  Each plug-in board would be field  
 serviceable.  The
 prototype KPA1500 in effect doubled the number of boards and  
 transistors.

 ...

 Paul, W9AC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power reduction after using TEST mode

2010-04-13 Thread Joe Planisky
Unable to reproduce here.  FW 3.79/2.54.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Apr 13, 2010, at 7:40 AM, Mike K2MK wrote:


 ...I've begun practicing sending CW by putting
 the K3 into TEST mode and sending paragraphs of text. I discovered  
 that when
 going back to normal TX mode, the power output was drastically  
 reduced.
...

 73,
 Mike K2MK

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Cooling

2010-04-06 Thread Joe Planisky
This seems to be another one of those extremely variable things about  
the K3.  Some folk's rigs seem to be extremely quiet and others not so  
much.  The fans in my K3 are clearly audible at all speeds.  At the  
highest speed it competes well with the old tower PC I use for digital  
modes. I've replaced the fans once with very little difference in noise.

Most (but not all) of the reports of very quiet fans I've heard of  
were from rigs with low serial numbers.  I suspect Elecraft may have  
used different brands of fans at different times, which might account  
for differences in reported noise.

As for how often they come on, from an idle temperature of 26C, it  
takes about 1:15 of 20WPM CW at 50W into a dummy load for the fans in  
my K3 to kick on.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Apr 6, 2010, at 7:43 AM, Rick Prather wrote:

 I dislike fan noise in my shack, one of the many reasons I love my  
 iMac, and before I considered a K3 I made a trip to Aptos and they  
 were kind enough to let me play with one for a bit including running  
 the fans through their paces.

 Then, and now on my own K3, I find it nearly impossible to hear the  
 first 3 speeds and the 4th speed is barely detectable.  That, plus  
 the fact the the fans rarely come on at any speed means the K3  
 passes my personal quiet test.

 Rick
 K6LE

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Cooling

2010-04-04 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Jim,

The K3 fans are exhaust fans and are intended to pull hot air out of  
the rig.

A couple years ago (June 4, 2008 if I must be precise), Eric Swartz  
said this in response to someone asking if 40 - 42C was too warm:

 We will let the heatsink get up to 85C before dropping the KPA3 off- 
 line, that still has plenty of safety margin for the transistors.

 40-42C is actually on the cool side for heavy usage. But it never  
 hurts to keep it cool if you don't mind the added fan noise.

His comment about the added fan noise was in reference to the original  
poster manually turning up the fan speed.

I don't know if adding additional fans will help or hurt anything.  My  
PA temp seems to plateau around 60 - 65C with high duty cycle digital  
modes with a shack temperature around 20C.  I'm not too concerned  
about it, but I do keep an eye on it when running digital.

73
--
Joe KB8AP




On Apr 4, 2010, at 3:16 PM, Jim Harris wrote:


 Hi Folks,

 Which way is the air flow supposed to be through the fans on the  
 K3?  Mine blows out, pulling air in from the slots in the top above  
 the KPA3.  ...

 I do some heavy RTTY contesting and I've occasionally seen the PA  
 temp at over 60 degrees centigrade.  I'm considering adding a fan on  
 half inch stand offs from the bottom of the shelf above the radio to  
 blow through the slots in the top of the K3.  Will this disturb  
 normal airflow around other components possibly causing them to  
 overheat?

 ...

 73,  Jim, W0EM


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Re: [Elecraft] Older Serial# K3

2010-04-03 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Gary,

Whether it's the same or not depends on whether the previous owner  
kept up with the hardware mods that Elecraft has published (see 
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_app_notes.htm) 
.  Depending on how old the K3 is and what mods might have already  
been done to it, there could be up to 15 or so hardware changes to  
bring it up to the latest and greatest, although it would have to be  
a pretty low serial number to require all 15.

In making a decision, you should factor in your willingness and  
ability to do any hardware mods that haven't already been done.  Most  
of them are well documented and can be done by someone with average  
soldering skills, common hand tools, and an ESD-safe work mat and  
wrist band.  If doing surgery on the rig isn't your cup of tea, you  
might want to either make sure the used rig is up to date before  
buying it, find someone to make the mods for you (Elecraft will do it  
for a price), or just get a new rig.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Apr 3, 2010, at 7:27 AM, Gary Slagel wrote:

 I want to get a K3 and wonder if I'm as well off buying an older K3  
 as getting the latest and greatest straight from elecraft.

 If I get an older serial# and make sure all firmware updates are in  
 place is it essentially the same radio as the newer version?

 Thanks,

 Gary Slagel/N0SXX

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 / FLDIGI problem...

2010-03-31 Thread Joe Planisky
IIRC, I had difficulties getting fldigi to work with the K3.xml file  
from the fldigi site.  I had better luck with the one from G4ILO's  
site ( http://www.g4ilo.com/files/k3.xml ).  Never took the time to  
figure out the difference.

That said, I've been having trouble using RigCAT with the 3.20 betas  
and have had to switch back to Hamlib, which seems to work OK.

So I'd suggest trying to use Hamlib and see if you get better  
results.  If that works and you still want to use RigCAT, try G4ILO's  
xml file.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Mar 31, 2010, at 3:25 PM, John Ragle wrote:

 I am:

 Using WIN 7 Ultimate.

 Using Elecraft K3/100 set to Data A or to USB. RS232 params set to
 19200 + 1 stop.
 Using E'craft USB to RS232 adapter, which loads driver and selects
 COM13. Device manager shows COM13/19200/1 stop.

 Using SignaLink USB with E'craft cable to rear connections.

 Using either fldigi 3.12.5 or 3.20.b9...problem is the same with  
 either.

 Using RigCat with K3.xml, 19200 + 1 stop on Com 13.


 Everything appears to be normal...receive OK, transmit OK via  
 SignaLink,
 TX power levels correct, waterfall appears normal.

 Problem: NO CAT Control...no rig control (frequency) via fldigi.  
 (Should
 be coming in on the RS232 line. Disconnecting the RS232 line has no
 effect.)

 On bringing up fldigi it throws an errorE: rigCAT_getfreq: Hexout
 failed  in addition the QSY button on the bottom toolbar is greyed
 out. Both these are clearly related to the failure to communicate  
 across
 the RS232 line.

 Any suggestions?

 John Ragle -- W1ZI


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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) american made

2010-03-27 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Chris,

From

http://n2.nabble.com/Are-K3-boards-built-overseas-tp4609367p4609378.html

(a post by Lyle Johnson, an Elecraft employee)

 Component parts come from all over the world.
 
 Parts are placed on the PCBs, soldered, and tested all in California.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Mar 27, 2010, at 8:53 AM, Chris Hembree wrote:

 Are the elecraft boards American made?
 ...

 Chris W7CTH


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 receiver gain problem

2010-03-27 Thread Joe Planisky
Hoo boy! I know about this one.  I actually sent my rig back to  
Elecraft for repair when it was happening to me.  Imagine my chagrin  
when my backup rig started behaving the same way.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Mar 27, 2010, at 10:44 AM, Vic K2VCO wrote:

 On 3/27/2010 9:02 AM, Ron W3ZV wrote:
 I am playing in the contest today. I have had two instances where my
 receiver gain has gone down dramatically. ... Engaging PTT brings it
 back.
 Often this kind of problem is caused by an intermittent poor  
 connection somewhere in the
 antenna system, ... As soon as you hit it with a bit of RF, it  
 cleans up and works for a while. But in receive, the voltage is so  
 low that it stays in high-resistance mode.
 ...
 Vic, K2VCO

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Re: [Elecraft] PSK Whurm Noise

2010-03-26 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Bill,

You didn't say whether your K3 has the 100W option (KPA3), but if it  
does,  are you sure it's not the fans?  Maybe kicking up to a higher  
speed than they did previously?

You can turn the fans on manually to see what they sound like at all 4  
speeds with the CONFIG:KPA3 item in the menu.  See the entry for the  
KPA3 setting in the manual for details.

73
--
Joe KB8AP



On Mar 26, 2010, at 7:02 AM, Screwtop wrote:


 Hi

 I'm a new owner of a K3 and I'm still in the setting up process.

 ...This time when transmitting
 my signal the radio made a strange whurm noise. I'm not sure if t  
 was from
 the speaker or not. It sounded as if it was coming from somewhere  
 near the
 back of the K3.

 ...

 73

 Bill
 GM0VIT

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] AM Bandwidth

2010-03-22 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Rick,

Yes, that's normal.  The displayed bandwidth is audio bandwidth.   
Remember that AM uses both sidebands, so the 6 kHz filter passes 3 kHz  
above and 3 kHz below the carrier (6 kHz total).  Your resulting audio  
bandwidth will actually be somewhere around 3 kHz.

You can get more audio bandwidth on AM receive by using the FM filter,  
which is about 13 kHz wide, but you can't transmit AM through the FM  
filter.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Mar 22, 2010, at 8:57 AM, K6LE wrote:

 After installing the 6.0 kHz AM filter I notice the Max DSP b/w is  
 5.0 and the Shift center is 1.5 kHz.

 Is this the normal set up?

 TIA,

 Rick
 K6LE
 # 3727

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[Elecraft] ERR KEY / ERR PTT Reports

2010-03-20 Thread Joe Planisky
In the last 9 months or so, there have been a number of reports of  
issues involving the ERR KEY or ERR PTT message.  Some of them may  
have been due to mics picking up noise on power up, or computers  
holding an RS-232 keying line active on power up.

However, since June 2009, there have been at least 5 separate reports  
on the reflector of the error appearing while the rig was operating  
(i.e. not at power up) or persisting with nothing but the power cord  
connected to the rig.  There have been another 3 reports where it  
wasn't quite clear if it happened while operating or with nothing  
connected.

This happened to me and persisted until I took the rig apart to  
inspect the key, paddle, and PTT jacks.  I found nothing wrong, but  
when I reassembled the rig, the error was gone.  There have been at  
least 2 other reports of the error spontaneously disappearing. (In  
other cases, there was no follow up report, so I don't know what the  
outcome was.)

Intermittent problems are hard to track down, but I hope Elecraft  
either has or will start investigating these reports to figure out why  
this error is being triggered when it apparently shouldn't be.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Power Connector

2010-03-18 Thread Joe Planisky
Hello Richard,

What you're describing is not normal.   Are you saying the plug pulls  
out of the socket with very little effort?  Or does it fit snugly, but  
the connection drops out as you move the cord?  If the plug fits very  
loosely or comes out with very little effort, it sounds like you  
either have the wrong size plug on the end of your power cord, or else  
the socket in the K2 is broken.  If it fits snugly but the power drops  
out as you move the power cord, you might have a bad connection in  
either the plug or where the socket is soldered to the K2 circuit board.

The plug that came with my K2 fits snugly in the socket and I can move  
the rig around without it pulling out.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Mar 17, 2010, at 9:32 PM, Irena and Richard jenkins wrote:

 Hello everybody from Canberra.

 This may have been covered before, and perhaps you can direct me to  
 the
 archive BUT ... Has anyone complained about the fragility of the
 power plug/socket arrangement on the K2??  I *have* to sweep off my
 bench before starting up the rig.  Else it turns itself off and maybe
 flickers on/OFF until I rest the plug on my bench.  Just brushing
 against mic cords, pens whatever ... is enough to set it off.

 ...
 Ideas would be welcome...

 Richard
 VK1RJ

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Re: [Elecraft] Tunig increments could be better

2010-03-18 Thread Joe Planisky
See CONFIG:VFO CRS and CONFIG:VFO FST in the manual (page 61)

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Mar 19, 2010, at 10:24 AM, John wrote:

 I love my K3 (#3271), but I have a question and I can't believe I'm  
 alone.
 You
 seem to have missed the boat when it comes to tuning increments.   
 Thus,
 why
 is there no actual 'Fast' tuning in the second position of the fast
 button?
...
 John Kountz, KE6GFF/T6EE

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Re: [Elecraft] [NCCC] Elecraft

2010-03-17 Thread Joe Planisky
In an email to the reflector on Feb. 17, 2010 with subject line Re:  
[Elecraft] For you Anti-Scopes from Eric Swartz, Ted Roycraft had  
asked:

 1) If you purchase a P3, do you also have to purchase a KXV3A or will
 one be included?

And Eric answered:

 your K3 will need to have the KXV3 or KXV3a for IF output. Its not
 included with the P3 since most K3s already have added it.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Mar 17, 2010, at 12:26 AM, David Pratt wrote:

 Are you sure about that, Joe?  The need for the KXV3A for the P3 has  
 been denied in the past.

 73

 David G4DMP

 In a recent message, Joe Planisky jp...@jeffnet.org wrote ...

 Don't forget that the transverter option (KXV3 or KXV3A) also gives
 you the ability to use a separate receive antenna, especially useful
 for low noise receive-only antennas on 80m and 160m.  Also, it will  
 be
 needed if you intend to eventually add the P3 or other panadapter.

 -- 
 David G4DMP
 Leeds, England, UK
 --




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Re: [Elecraft] [NCCC] Elecraft

2010-03-16 Thread Joe Planisky
Don't forget that the transverter option (KXV3 or KXV3A) also gives  
you the ability to use a separate receive antenna, especially useful  
for low noise receive-only antennas on 80m and 160m.  Also, it will be  
needed if you intend to eventually add the P3 or other panadapter.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Mar 16, 2010, at 4:27 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

 On Tue, 16 Mar 2010 13:54:23 -0700, Rick Sealock wrote:

 So as a prospective Elecraft K3 purchaser, what options should I  
 get?

 Want both SSB and CW capabilities (and, maybe, the new panadaptor?)


...

 Transverter options only if you do VHF/UHF.


 Fred K6DGW

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Re: [Elecraft] DX Doubler/K3 issue

2010-03-15 Thread Joe Planisky
Would bonding the two chassis together with thick wire or braid work?

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Mar 15, 2010, at 4:44 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


 This is a common problem with DXDoubler due to differences
 in chassis potential between transceivers.  ...

 73,

   ... Joe, W4TV




 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
 k...@baymoon.com
 Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 4:41 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] DX Doubler/K3 issue


 ...

 When I
 plug the headset into the DXD phone socket, I hear a hummy
 sidetone and low-level hum on both radios

 Rob K6RB


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Re: [Elecraft] USB to serial angst

2010-03-14 Thread Joe Planisky
Comments embedded.


On Mar 14, 2010, at 11:41 AM, Eric Manning wrote:


 Placing a USB port in the K3 would simply move the USB UART
 currently found in the USB to serial converter onto the KIO3
 board.
 Correct, and would thus avoid the un-necessary and superfluous  
 packaging
 and connector costs of the USB/RS232 dongle.
 ...

  Going to USB requires a substantial added
 investment by the manufacturer and a major ongoing support
 cost.

 True, depending on what you mean by substantial and major.
 But avoids us customers being forced to  buy thousands of those stupid
 and crash-prone dongles.

So wait a second.  You admit that putting a USB interface in the K3  
would essentially be repackaging the same chips that are in the  
dongles into the K3.  But then you condemn those dongles (and by  
association the chips in them) as stupid and crash-prone.   How  
will putting the same chips into the K3 make them any less stupid  
and crash-prone?

If my external dongle doesn't work with my particular hardware and/or  
software, I can go out and buy a different one for less than $20.   
Yes, an irritation and an inconvenience.  But if my K3 (with the  
hypothetical built-in USB interface) doesn't work with my hardware/ 
software, then what do I do?

73
--
Joe KB8AP

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Re: [Elecraft] USB to serial angst

2010-03-13 Thread Joe Planisky
Great idea as long as Elecraft provide and maintain drivers that work  
with

Win2K
WinXP,
Vista/32 bit
Vista/64 bit
Win7/32 bit
Win7/64 bit
Mac OS X 10.5 PPC,
Mac OS X 10.5 Intel,
Mac OS X 10.6,
and the various versions of Linux (32 and 64 bit).

I'm all for it.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Mar 13, 2010, at 11:08 AM, eric manning wrote:

 All in favour of a USB port on the K3?

 ...
 eric

 VA7DZ

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] LPF DSP modification

2010-03-08 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi James,

I used an Exacto knife to cut the traces on mine.  They're pretty thin  
lines, so it doesn't take much to cut through them.

Do note that the LPF mod does NOT give you the extended low frequency  
response on TX and RX that you would get with the board exchange.  If  
that's not important to you, then the DIY option is a good way to go.

Someone recently mentioned that Elecraft offered to modify his DSP  
board if he sent it in and that the turn-around time was just a few  
days.  Don't know if that's something they're generally offering or if  
it was a one-time-only deal for him.  The downside is you're without  
your K3 for the time it takes to get the modified board back to you.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Mar 8, 2010, at 7:47 AM, K2QI wrote:

 Just saw that Elecraft is now offering a DIY kit to upgrade your  
 current DSP
 board with the LPF module.

 ...
 I'm curious as to how you guys
 that have done this mod have gone about cutting the two traces?   
 Would an
 exacto knife work?

 73 de James K2QI

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] LPF DSP modification

2010-03-08 Thread Joe Planisky
Elecraft explains it pretty clearly at

http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/dsp_rev_c_information.htm

The original post was from someone who was going to do the board swap,  
but decided to go with the user installed LPF option instead.  I  
pointed out (or intended to) that the K3DSPUPGD (the board swap)  
included the improved low frequency response modifications, whereas  
the K3DSPLPF (the user installed LPF board) did not.

I guess what I should have said was that installing the K3DSPLPF  
option did not change the low frequency response.

My (intended) point was that if they didn't already have the improved  
low frequency response and wanted it, they should stick with the board  
swap.  If they didn't care about the improved low frequency response  
or already had it, then installing the LPF board themselves was a  
reasonable alternative to waiting for the board swap.

I did not intend to imply (and I have no knowledge of) any further low  
frequency response circuit changes since rev C.   I do not work for  
Elecraft.  I have no inside information.  All I know about their  
products comes from information that's publicly available on their web  
site.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Mar 8, 2010, at 11:56 AM, Grant Youngman wrote:

 Let me be specific in my question.  If I add the LPF daughter board  
 to the C level DSP board, are there ADDITIONAL changes that were  
 made to get to the factory D level board or not, beyond what is  
 already in the C board?  Maybe Elecraft would chime in on this  
 just for clarification.

 Thanks ... Grant/NQ5T

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Re: [Elecraft] IF output buffer gain Mod

2010-03-01 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Dave,

A via is a small hole in the circuit board used to connect traces  
from the top side of the board to the bottom. There's a small hollow  
metal insert in them that connects the two sides of the board (called  
plated through vias)  They're usually smaller than a typical  
component mounting hole.

If you look at the picture in the instructions, the closeup on the  
right shows a via (the small hole) just to the left of R8.  In the  
picture on the left hand side, it shows the little 1/8 watt resistor  
with one lead going through that hole.

The little white plastic thing in the kit contains a surface mount  
resistor you can use to replace R8 with if you can do SMD soldering.   
If you don't have have a fine tipped soldering iron, steady hands, and  
a good magnifying headset, you can use the 1/8 watt leaded resistor  
instead.

The mod gives you 10 dB more signal at the IF output connector on the  
KXV3.  This is useful if you want to use a panadaptor (such as the P3)  
with your rig.  It won't make any difference in what you hear through  
your headphones.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Mar 1, 2010, at 8:49 PM, dbellw...@aol.com wrote:

 So I see how to attach it but have no idea what a via is?

...

 And for that matter, what is the purpose of this  modification?
...

 73, Dave


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Re: [Elecraft] K3DSPLPF Low Pass Filter

2010-03-01 Thread Joe Planisky
I recently installed the LPF.  I did *not* make any other changes  
(e.g. to extend the low frequency response.)  I work mostly CW but do  
a fair amount of listening to SSB and SWBC.

In my case, the effect is rather subtle and I can't be sure it's not  
just a placebo effect, but I think CW notes and SSB voices sound a bit  
smoother.  I haven't used it for a long period of time since I  
installed the LPF, so I can't really tell if it's less fatiguing.

Like Brett, I have before and after spectrum plots which clearly show  
that the aliased passband images centered on 12 kHz are completely  
gone.  However, in my case the 12 kHz clock leakage itself is still  
there.  It must be getting into the output some other way than through  
the normal audio path.

It was one of the more challenging mods that I've done to my K3,  
mostly due to the fact that 4 of the 6 vias used were filled with  
solder, two of which have an IC on the other side preventing the use  
of a hot needle to clear them. And I'm *always* nervous cutting  
traces.  That said, it wasn't really difficult.  I took my time and  
spent about 2 hours from power off to power on.

I noticed the price on the LPF board has gone up to $35.  When I  
ordered mine it was $25.  Was it worth it?  I think so.  I wouldn't  
call it a whole-new-rig difference but I seem to think the rig is a  
bit more pleasant to listen to.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Mar 1, 2010, at 8:40 AM, Edward Dickinson, III wrote:

 I'm a SSB operator and am interested in the Low Pass Filter Update/ 
 Mod.

 Can someone with a pre-Rev D DSP board who has installed the  
 K3DSPLPF speak
 to the improvements?

 Thanks.


 73,
 Dick - KA5KKT


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[Elecraft] [OT] - Spectrogram software for Linux

2010-02-27 Thread Joe Planisky
As has been mentioned several times recently, audio spectrum analysis  
software can be very useful for aligning the filters in a K2 and for  
lots of other purposes as well.  Spectrogram is frequently mentioned  
as a good program for Windows.

For those of us who run some variant of GNU Linux, the Baudline  
program (available as a free download at http://www.baudline.com)  
provides much the same functionality.  I've been using it for several  
months now and find it fast, very powerful, and easy to use once you  
get the hang of the somewhat different user interface (you WILL have  
to read the manual.)  The manual is well written and easy to  
understand if you have some familiarity with sampling and basic signal  
analysis concepts.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

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Re: [Elecraft] KBPF3 Query

2010-02-26 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Brian,

This came up and was discussed on Nov. 15, 2009 with a thread titled  
K3 Firmware Req for SWL band and Using Memories  Search for that  
thread in the archives to read all the gory details.

The key information that's missing from the documentation is the band  
edges.  I determined them experimentally to be:

160m  0.5 -  2.99 MHz
  80m  3.0 -  4.79 MHz
  60m  4.8 -  5.99 MHz
  40m  6.0 -  8.99 MHz
  30m  9.0 - 12.99 MHz
  20m 13.0 - 16.99 MHz
  17m 17.0 - 18.99 MHz
  15m 19.0 - 22.99 MHz
  12m 23.0 - 25.99 MHz
  10m 26.0 - 30.00 MHz
   6m 44.0 - 54.00 MHz

To answer your specific questions:

 Suppose one wants 9 MHz.  Does one
 set the band to 30M and just tune down to it?

You can, but I usually punch in the frequency I want, or one close to  
it and tune from there.  E.g. if I wanted 9 MHz, I punch that in: FREQ  
ENT  9  AFX (the AFX key is also the ENTER key).

 Does any of this confuse
 the band selection via buttons?

No.  Not as long as you keep in mind the table above.  If you're at 9  
MHz, you're on the 30m band.  If you then go to 15 MHz, you've  
switched to the 20m band.

 Alternatively if one sets the
 frequency with the key pad, what band does it appear in.

See the table above.

73
--
Joe KB8AP



On Feb 26, 2010, at 7:35 AM, Brian Alsop wrote:

 Guys,

 I was wondering just how this works.  Suppose one wants 9 MHz.  Does  
 one
 set the band to 30M and just tune down to it?  Does any of this  
 confuse
 the band selection via buttons?   Alternatively if one sets the
 frequency with the key pad, what band does it appear in.

 I seem to recall some unintended consequences reported here a long  
 time ago.

 73 de Brian/K3KO
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Re: [Elecraft] Can't Find Vox Delay

2010-02-22 Thread Joe Planisky
Press and hold the Speed/Mic knob on the front panel.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Feb 22, 2010, at 8:48 PM, -.-. --.-N3TU -.-. --.- wrote:


 From reading on here, I see there is a Vox Delay command. Problem  
 is my menu
 only has VOX GN and Anti VOX command. Right after Anti Vox in the  
 menu it
 says AFX MD delay  but I don't think that is it. I am looking for  
 VOX delay.
 What am I overlooking?
 -- 

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Re: [Elecraft] Digital Noise Reduction

2010-02-15 Thread Joe Planisky
Have you tried F5-1?

Remember that there are two completely different sets of NR settings.   
1-1 through 4-4 use a different algorithm than 5-1 through 8-4.  You  
might find that you prefer one set over the other.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Feb 15, 2010, at 1:42 PM, Richard Thorpe wrote:

 I find even the lowest level (1 -1) on the noise reduction is too
 aggressive especially with weak signals.  You can learn to love
 digital noise reduction, I had an NIR 10 and used judiciously was very
 helpful.  This morning trying to work a station in Senegal  6W2SC, I
 wished the NR was a little less or more adjustable.  Maybe a future
 software upgrade.

 R Thorpe AC9D
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Power not restored when swapping A/B and back

2010-02-15 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Martin,

 To restore PWR i need to crank up the PWR-knob from Milliwatts to high
 PWR or use PFx.

Are you saying that CONFIG:PWR SET = PER-BAND is not working in that  
situation?

 Other observation: When i switch on TEXT DECODE in CW, the AGC acts
 slower. Is this intended?

Yes.  See page 33 in the manual, section titled CW Text Decode Tips.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Feb 15, 2010, at 2:23 PM, DM4iM wrote:

 Elecrafters,

 ...

 Martin

 -- 

 73, DM4iM

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Competition

2010-02-14 Thread Joe Planisky
Maybe it'll have titanium knobs. :-)

73
--
Joe ducking and running for cover
KB8AP


On Feb 14, 2010, at 12:11 PM, Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy wrote:

 Steve,

 Did the Kenwood sales dude give any hint as to what would be better?

 Software 'aint everything :-)

 73,
 Geoff
 GM4ESD


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Re: [Elecraft] Shift control quirk?

2010-02-10 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Bob,

The shift control doesn't do anything when the DUAL PB filter is on.   
(DUAL PB is available in CW, AFSK-A, and FSK-D modes.) If it's  
happening when DUAL PB is not on, then I don't think it's normal.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Feb 10, 2010, at 5:26 AM, Bob Naumann wrote:

 I have noticed that my shift control does not always work. Sometimes  
 I turn
 it, it does nothing. Then other times it changes the shift as I would
 expect.

 Is this normal or?

 In contrast, the width control always works correctly when I turn  
 it, so
 while this is not a big deal, it just seems a little quirky.

 Bob W5OV

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Re: [Elecraft] AFSK A not working, while DATA A is!?

2010-02-10 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Frank.

Make sure the mark tone frequency your software is set up for matches  
the mark tone frequency the K3 is set for.  In AFSK-A mode, use the  
PITCH button (i.e. press and hold the SPOT button) to check and set  
the AFSK mark frequency.

See the section titled Mark/Shift and Pitch Selection on page 31 of  
the K3 Owners Manual.

73
--
Joe KB8AP



On Feb 10, 2010, at 10:11 AM, Frank R. Oppedijk wrote:

 ...so I tweaked the necessary controls on
 my K3 and on my PC soundcard. But no transmit output?! The PTT is
 asserted and the receiver is muted, but no transmit output and no
 monitor output. ...
 ... I found out that everything was
 working fine when I changed the DATA MD from AFSK A to DATA A!...
 Can anyone help me out? What setting or control can be the cause of  
 this?

 Thanks in advance,

 Frank PA4N


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Loses RX Audio at BW of 2.8 kHz

2010-02-06 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Scott,

Just a shot in the dark: Have you checked your filter configuration?
If you happen to have an empty slot enabled for those modes, you'll  
get exactly the behavior you described.  Use the K3 Utility to look  
for a slot that you know to be empty but with the Bandwidth set to 2.8  
and the LSB, USB, and AM boxes checked.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Feb 5, 2010, at 10:45 PM, Scott Prather wrote:

 All: This evening when running FW 3.76 I'm seeing a problem with my  
 K3 that
 I've never seen before.

 When the K3 is in the LSB, USB or AM mode, adjusting the bandwidth  
 down to
 2.8 kHz will result in total loss of audio, even though the S-meter
 continues to read incoming signal strength.

...

  To get audio to return, all I need to do is
 change the BW to 2.9 kHz or greater on either the main or the sub.

...

 Does anyone have a suggestion as to what might be going on?

 Tnx.

 Scott
 N7NB

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Noise blanker insertion loss

2010-01-31 Thread Joe Planisky
Nearly the same here (-2.2dB), but only when the IF NB is used.  No  
loss at all with just the DSP NB engaged.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jan 31, 2010, at 4:31 PM, Lyle Johnson wrote:


 I just noted that my noise blanker has an S-unit of insertion loss.

 I measure 2.0 dB (AGC OFF, using AFV/dBV internal functions and
 monitoring a steady nominal S5 carrier on 6 meters).

 73,

 Lyle KK7P
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] PCI Express sound card for digimodes

2010-01-30 Thread Joe Planisky
Lots.  I used an M-Audio Delta 44.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jan 30, 2010, at 9:57 AM, N2TK, Tony wrote:

 Does anyone make a sound card, internal or external that has two  
 separate
 inputs/outputs? ...
 What would be nice if there were two independent inputs and outputs  
 on a
 sound card.

 Tnx for any feedback

 73,
 N2TK, Tony


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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning Protection articles

2010-01-21 Thread Joe Planisky
I think these may be the PolyPhaser articles Don was referring to.

http://www.polyphaser.com/technical_notes.aspx

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jan 21, 2010, at 3:56 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

 OK, this thread has morphed into lightning protection related topics,
 and I have changed the subject line.
 I checked the PolyPhaser site and the information is no longer there.

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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning Protection articles

2010-01-21 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Don,

The KB2UYT articles from 2002 mentions a perimeter ring, but gives no  
real details as to the construction and installation of the ring.  An  
article by KD7PEI in the 8/2008 QST gives more details, but still  
fails to answer some questions such as:

How far away from the building foundation can the ring be?  Obviously  
closer means less material needed, but can it be TOO close?  Can it be  
too far?

How do you deal with concrete sidewalks, concrete driveways, stone  
patios, or other obstacles that prevent you from placing the ring  
close to the foundation?  (KB2UYT does say that A perimeter ground  
that only goes three-quarters or half-way around the house is better  
than no perimeter ground at all.  But would it be better to get a  
complete ring with parts of it 20' away from the foundation, or a  
partial ring 3' away?)

Is there a recommended vertical separation between the ring conductor  
and other underground pipes and wires?

If you have time and are so inclined, could you perhaps tell us more  
about the ring you installed, the materials you used, and how you went  
about the installation?

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Jan 21, 2010, at 3:56 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

 ARRL Archives has the best one I know about.  It was a 3 part
 publication run in June, July and August of 2002.
 Author is W. Ronald Block, KB2UYT and carries the title of Lightning
 Protection for the Amateur Radio Station.
 Download the 3 .PDF files - they have pictures and diagrams.

 That is the guidelines I used to constructed my system.  I consider  
 this
 an authoritative source, and I have not seen one since that covered  
 all
 aspects.
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Grounding negative side of power supply?

2010-01-20 Thread Joe Planisky
Correct, and I agree that the power supply chassis should be connected  
to the AC (mains) safety ground.  But that wasn't the situation I was  
asking about.  I was asking whether the negative side of the DC output  
should be connected to the chassis.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jan 20, 2010, at 2:57 PM, David Woolley (E.L) wrote:


 Unless the power supply is a Class II double insulated device and  
 there are no connections from any of your equipment to true ground,  
 it is essential that all its exposed metal work is bonded to the  
 mains ground with a connection that is very low impedance at mains  
 frequency and capable of carrying the full rated current of the  
 nearest fuse.

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[Elecraft] [OT] Grounding negative side of power supply?

2010-01-19 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi folks,

The recent discussions about bonding equipment together to reduce  
noise has prompted me to ask a question I've been mulling over for a  
few days now.

Should the negative side of a power supply be connected to the supply  
chassis (and thus to the green wire AC ground), or should it be left  
floating?  I have heard arguments both for and against floating the  
negative terminal, mostly from the fields of industrial control and  
precision sensing.  The gist seems to be that the negative side of  
power supplies are usually connected to chassis or structure ground  
except in cases of very sensitive analog sensing where it is sometimes  
left floating to help reduce noise.  I've heard stories of hum in  
repeater systems being cured by floating the negative side of the  
supply.

Does whether or not the negative side of the supply is floating affect  
the idea of bonding the rig and PS cases to a common point?

73
--
Joe KB8AP

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 vers K2 questions that I keep seeimg

2010-01-17 Thread Joe Planisky
Note: The first time I sent this, it didn't seem to go out properly.   
My apologies in advance if 2 copies show up.

Hi Harry,

 Is it my imagination or are K3 question and issues a bit more then  
 K2 issues? My in box since I signed up is buldging with K3 questions  
 and problems. ... Also why is there so many K3 problems listed at  
 this stage of the game?

Perhaps because the K2 has been out for over 10 years and the K3 has  
been out for only 2.  Do you suppose you would have been asking why  
are there so many questions about the K2? back in 2001?  How much K3  
traffic will be on the reflector in 2018?

Also, I think a more demanding class of operator is using the K3 in  
more demanding situations than the K2.  As you mentioned, some of them  
are a different breed.

What are the current problems that you perceive with the K3 that do  
not ultimately come down to operator preference?


 So what is the opion of those who have both or had the K2 and now  
 the K3? Which is the better value for the budget minded and for  
 those on a budget what is the cost of a K3/100 that would meet most  
 people needs.

I think the basic K3/100 with the stock 2.7 kHz roofing filter would  
meet most average ham's needs for $1899.95. That gives you everything  
that a fully loaded K2/100 gives you and then some.

I have both a K2/10 and a K3/100.  I find the K3 has a noticeably  
better receiver, is much easier to operate, and has features that make  
my day-to-day operation much more pleasant.  The difference in cost  
between a fully loaded K2/100 and a stripped down K3/100 is  
$270.30 if I've done my math correctly.  In my opinion the extras the  
K3 gives you for that $270.30 are well worth the money.

The K2 is a great rig if you simply can't afford or can live without  
the extra features and performance that the K3 gives you.  I started  
out with a pretty basic K2 and added to it over the years as budget  
permitted (and I'm doing the same with the K3.)  I still use my K2 for  
portable/field work and as a backup rig, but I enjoy using the K3 more.

Asking whether a K3 will get you more contacts than a K2 is like  
asking if a basic economy car will get you more places than a luxury  
car.  Both will get you where you want to go, but the experience you  
have along the way might be quite different.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Jan 17, 2010, at 2:39 PM, harry latterman wrote:

[...snip...]

 73
 Harry K7ZOV


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 vers K2 questions that I keep seeimg

2010-01-17 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Harry,

 Is it my imagination or are K3 question and issues a bit more then  
 K2 issues? My in box since I signed up is buldging with K3 questions  
 and problems. ... Also why is there so many K3 problems listed at  
 this stage of the game?

Perhaps because the K2 has been out for over 10 years and the K3 has  
been out for only 2.  Do you suppose you would have been asking why  
are there so many questions about the K2? back in 2001?  How much K3  
traffic will be on the reflector in 2018?

Also, I think a more demanding class of operator is using the K3 in  
more demanding situations than the K2.  As you mentioned, some of them  
are a different breed.

What are the current problems that you perceive with the K3 that do  
not ultimately come down to operator preference?


 So what is the opion of those who have both or had the K2 and now  
 the K3? Which is the better value for the budget minded and for  
 those on a budget what is the cost of a K3/100 that would meet most  
 people needs.

I think the basic K3/100 with the stock 2.7 kHz roofing filter would  
meet most average ham's needs for $1899.95.  That gives you everything  
that a fully loaded K2/100 gives you and then some.

I have both a K2/10 and a K3/100.  I find the K3 has a noticeably  
better receiver, is much easier to operate, and has features that make  
my day-to-day operation much more pleasant.  The difference in cost  
between a fully loaded K2/100 and a stripped down K3/100 is  
$270.30 if I've done my math correctly.  In my opinion the extras the  
K3 gives you for that $270.30 are well worth the money.

The K2 is a great rig if you simply can't afford or can live without  
the extra features and performance that the K3 gives you.  I started  
out with a pretty basic K2 and added to it over the years as budget  
permitted (and I'm doing the same with the K3.)  I still use my K2 for  
portable/field work and as a backup rig, but I enjoy using the K3 more.

Asking whether a K3 will get you more contacts than a K2 is like  
asking if a basic economy car will get you more places than a luxury  
car.  Both will get you where you want to go, but the experience you  
have along the way might be quite different.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Jan 17, 2010, at 2:39 PM, harry latterman wrote:

 I have a wonderful K2/100 and yes have eyed th K3 as so many other  
 has. The new K3 design is clean, filters options are mind boggling,  
 seems to like digital ... But and this is a big BUT for me is cost  
 vers any really added contacts. Or cost per possible, but unlikely  
 contacts missed. By the time all the eye candy and ear candy is  
 added you have one really expenisive radio. Way more the a fully  
 loaded K2 with has some impressive specs...very impressive by a lot  
 of standards. Plus I am really wondering about the K3 issues. Is it  
 my imagination or are K3 question and issues a bit more then K2  
 issues? My in box since I signed up is buldging with K3 questions  
 and problems. If it were not for the occational K2 question you  
 would think this was a K3 site.

 Don't get me wrong Elecraft is one fantastic company. I built and  
 used a K1/4 and used it for a while and it was FUN and very  
 inpressive. Very! I am a cheater in that I traded a 706mkII+ a  
 Ft-817 for the K2/100 I have now instead of building it, only  
 becasue the person that listed it decided that the trade was better  
 then what he was asking for it and my trade fit his needs. The  
 chances of that happening again a pretty slim. If he had not then  
 sometime later this year I probably would have had to make a painful  
 choice. A fully loaded K2/100 or a strip down K3/10 and who knows  
 how long before I could afford to get it up to the level I really  
 wanted. But that is my financial problem and like many today price  
 vers performance vers reliablity are all a factor.

 So what is the opion of those who have both or had the K2 and now  
 the K3? Which is the better value for the budget minded and for  
 those on a budget what is the cost of a K3/100 that would meet most  
 people needs. Not the hard core contester, they are a different  
 breed. But the everyday ham, who likes to take it with him/her and/ 
 or have a great home station. Also why is there so many K3 problems  
 listed at this stage of the game? That is the part that makes me  
 glad I have a K2 and might wait a very long time before I get a K3.

 Thanks for you time and this great board.
 73
 Harry K7ZOV





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Screen displays ERR PTT msg

2010-01-13 Thread Joe Planisky
I had a similar thing happen to my K3 a few weeks ago.  Was getting  
ERR PTT with literally nothing but power connected.  Only way to turn  
it off was to shut down the power supply.  Doing an EE INIT didn't fix  
it.  After disassembling the rig enough to inspect the key jacks and  
the front panel mic connector, it started working again.  I never did  
find a definite cause for it.  It has not happened since.

(Side note:  I know Wayne is working on a firmware change to let the  
rig be turned off when ERR PTT happens.)

73
--
Joe KB8AP



On Jan 13, 2010, at 8:10 AM, David Windisch wrote:


 SN28XX, V3.68 firmware, re-loaded several times to no avail.
 Other than rtm and reading the archives, I've not a clue why this is
 happening.
 I've followed the steps in the manual to no avail.
 *Nothing* but power is connected to the K3.
 Unit comes uo on 10MHz WWV, loud and clear and that's about it.
 Won't tune.
 No consistent behavior pattern, right or wrong.
 Sometimes I can change a band once, or a mode, then lockup occurs.
 Can't turn power off.
 Can't get into any menu.
 Won't transmit.
 Now what?  Vulcan nerve pinch?
 Brgds, tia,  Dave, W8FGX
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Screen-displays-ERR-PTT-msg-tp4349729p4349729.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] IF output

2010-01-12 Thread Joe Planisky
I don't think you'll hear much of anything on a K2 at 8.215 MHz.  
That's well outside the 40m passband.  The K2 does not have general  
coverage RX.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jan 12, 2010, at 1:05 PM, sr...@swbell.net wrote:

   I am trying to verify the output at the IF OUT jack on the back of
 the K3. I have it connected to my K2 with the VFO set for 8215.00  
 and I see
 or hear no signal at all. Shouldn't I see the output from the K3? Is  
 the
 signal that low that I won't even get a blip on the K2 receiver? Am I
 missing something? I see no menu entry for enabling the IF output.   
 HELP


 Stan Rife
 W5EWA



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