[Elecraft] FS K2 #05387

2013-08-02 Thread John Gabbard
 Selling my  k2 10 watt version, it has ssb, kaf2,160 rcv original manual
and dc cord, no mic but wired for Kenwood 8 pin mic. Its a very clean radio
with no marks or smoke smell  and looks and works like new. An outstanding
bargain at $525.00
shipped and insured conus only please. pic available upon request.
   Thanks John
KF7OM
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[Elecraft] no subject

2009-11-12 Thread john gabbard
test thanks
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[Elecraft] K2 info

2008-07-04 Thread john gabbard
I have had my K2 for about a year now and really have enjoyed it.I have a 
question on the KAT2, what else is needed after the installation of the 
tuner into the rig? Set the swr and power out? band assignments ? Thanks, 
John   KF7OM
  Anybody have one that is for sale at a reasonable price? 


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[Elecraft] test

2007-08-22 Thread john gabbard
Sorry, thanks, KF7OM 


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[Elecraft] FS/trade?

2006-04-03 Thread john gabbard
I have a nice never used SLV by W6MMA(built) 80-10 mtr and blackwidow pole. 
I am asking $75.00 or B/O or trade for unbuilt kits? or?
  shipping extra, thanks, John KF7OM 



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[Elecraft] FS/trade?

2006-04-03 Thread john gabbard
I have (1) HW9 assembly manual(w7fg) and all schematics(1) Hot Water 
handbook version II. $15.00 ea.+ sh  thanks, John KF7OM 



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[Elecraft] FS Trade?

2006-04-03 Thread john gabbard
I have (1) HW9 (W7FG) assembly manual.$15.00 
(1) HW handbook 2nd edition $15.00

  shipping extra.
 Thanks, John KF7OM

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[Elecraft] WTB

2006-04-02 Thread john gabbard

I am looking for a small Iambic keyer,no paddle,battery powered(9v.)?
 Please no MFJ's,must be in good condx.tks John KF7OM

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[Elecraft] WTB

2006-04-02 Thread john gabbard

Please cancel my want for the keyer. Thanks, John KF7OM

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[Elecraft] WTB 901B mfj

2006-04-02 Thread john gabbard

Still looking for the 901B tuner. Thanks, John KF7OM

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[Elecraft] spider antenna parts

2006-04-01 Thread john gabbard
please cancel my want for the parts and/or the antenne.I have found 
one..Thanks, John  KF7OM 



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[Elecraft] WTB

2006-04-01 Thread john gabbard
I am looking for a small random wire coupler such as the MFJ 16010 or 
similar in good condition. Thanks John KF7OM 



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[Elecraft] WTB

2006-04-01 Thread john gabbard

Thanks for the offers guys,I have found one...tks for the BW, John KF7OM

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[Elecraft] SLV FS or trade

2006-03-30 Thread john gabbard
I have a little used SLV 80-10 mtr portable  vertical antenna made by 
W6MMA.It has multiple wire elements for each band instead of 1 radiator.
 I will accept a reasonable offer or trade it for an MP-1 or a Spider 
mobile antenna.
Thanks, John  KF7OM 



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[Elecraft] FS

2006-02-23 Thread john gabbard

I have a spare HW9 manual (W7FG) and a spare Hot Water handbook.
 Both $22. shipped conus.
 Thanks, John KF7OM

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[Elecraft] Drift-K1

2006-02-22 Thread john gabbard

I have had my K1 #1734 in use occaisionally since I built it.
  The other day I noticed quite abit of drift,even after warm up,like 1-2 
khz. over an hour or so.I think I remember it was going lower in freq.

  I just wondered if anyother owners have had a similar problem?
 Could be from day one and I just now noticed it! Can't really say, Thanks 
John  KF7OM 



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[Elecraft] FS HW9

2006-02-17 Thread john gabbard

Spoken for, thanks list.
  johnKF7OM

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[Elecraft] PS wanted

2005-10-02 Thread john Gabbard

I have found one, thanks for the BW.
 John  KF7OM

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[Elecraft] PS wanted

2005-09-30 Thread john Gabbard
Hi Folks, I am in need of a small Astron or similar Power supply for my K1 
upto 4 amp would be good or an HW9 PS would be welcome too.
 Please reply direct, and state price and condition.Thanks, John  KF7OM 



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 tuning rate... is 150 kHz too wide?

2005-08-04 Thread John Gabbard
The same reason holds for 80 mtrs as does for the 30 mtr band.Personally, I 
like all the coverage I can get.Your chioce Peter...John  KF7OM   K1 #1734 
I think its the same VFO as my Wilderness Sierra.(similar)??
- Original Message - 
From: Mike Morrow [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Peter Wang [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2005 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 tuning rate... is 150 kHz too wide?



Pete wrote:


I'm considering getting a K1, this question of 80 vs. 150 kHz VFO
tuning width is a bit disconcerting.


I hold the minority view that 150 kHz span (you'll actually get closer to 
180 kHz) works just fine.  The tuning is pretty linear at about 18 kHz per 
turn across the entire tuning range.


I like being able to tune all of the US 40m Morse band.  That *alone* 
would make me choose the wider span.  I also like being able to tune down 
to 10 MHz WWV on the 30m band.


I use some felt between the front panel and the back of the VFO knob to 
provide a little resistance.  The VFO pot is too easy to turn otherwise. 
That's a problem with the 180 kHz span, for certain, but also even for the 
80 kHz option.


If I were in a region with a restricted 40m Morse band, I'd choose 80 kHz.

Mike / KK5F
K1 #175 (November 2000)


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Re: [Elecraft] Here we go

2005-01-18 Thread John Gabbard

I can second that,I had lots of fun building my K1 and it works great!
   John  KF7OM
- Original Message - 
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 6:49 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Here we go



John, K7SVV wrote:

   I predict that you will assemble the K1 according the assembly manual 
with no problems and, when you turn it on, you will hear Captain Kirk 
telling Scotty to beam him up.  It is a great little rig.


---
License plate holder of the year, seen in Forest Grove, Oregon:

Top line: VERY FUNNY SCOTTY...

Bottom Line: NOW BEAM MY CLOTHES DOWN.

Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] DMM Recommendations

2005-01-10 Thread John Gabbard
I just bought a VC97 autoranging DMM with a counter to 30 mhz. for 29.95 
from kaitometers and they have abunch more you can drool over...John 
KF7OM
- Original Message - 
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2005 1:22 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] DMM Recommendations


Chuck, KI4DGH, wrote:

I would like to see some recommendations for a Digital Multimeter.  The
Fluke 187 is a little out of my range but something between my Walmart
$29.95 special and the Fluke would be nice.

--

I have cheap meters and expensive meters. On the high end, a Bel Merit probe
type meter and a Fluke DMM. On the low end, A Radio Shack and a freebie DMM
that came with an order from Mouser a while back.

Curious, I compared all of them closely, using a variety of voltages and
resistances. They are ALL produce readings within 1% or one digit of each
other. There are three significant differences though.

1) Speed. The RS and cheapie meter take about 2 or 3 seconds to produce a
reading. The Fluke and Bel Merit are virtually instantaneous. Reading about
the design of these meters, it seems that they all tend to use the same
divider chain for the ranges, and that modern manufacturing technologies
ensure that the accuracy of these dividers are very good. That also
determines the accuracy of the readings. The highest priced items in the
meter are the chip that takes the analog input from the range divider and
drives the digital display and the digital display itself. The cheaper I.C.s
are slow. That's why the RS meter takes 2 or 3 seconds to produce a display
while the more expensive meters look almost instantaneous.

2) Resolution. To hold down costs, many cheaper meters have only 3 or 3-1/2
digit displays. That is usually adequate for just about anything you might
do. My RS, Fluke and Bel Merit all have four digit displays, typical of
better meters. Also, some meters have a little row of dots or bars that vary
with the reading. That's handy when making an adjustment when peaking a
voltage, but it's pretty useless in a slower meter where you have to wait
for a couple of seconds after making a change to see the results!

3) Durability. Robust packaging helps keep a meter working after hard
physical use. Cheaper meters tend to skimp here. Still, one can be careful.
I have an old d'Arsonval movement VOM (common wiggly-needle type of meter
from the 1960's) that I still prefer when the oscilloscope isn't handy for
peaking a circuit adjustment. It's a nice Radio Shack meter, but it is
absolutely fragile, I'm sure. Still, I've had it for 40 years and it's still
working FB. I just don't take it up a tower or other dangerous places. It
stays on the bench or packed away in its box G.

I do use my Fluke more than most. The Bel Merit, which fits easily in my
shirt pocket, goes up masts or towers with me and generally anywhere where I
want to travel light because it's small. Its disadvantage, being a pen
or probe type instrument in which the display is an integral part of the
probe, is that it's sometimes hard to see the display when holding the tip
on the circuit. Also it doesn't do current measurements.

In spite of its slower speed, the RS meter gets LOTS of use because it
analyzes transistors showing the correct pinout along with an hFE reading
directly and measures capacitor values from a few pF to many microfarads -
as well as doing the common voltage/current/resistance checks. Neither my
Fluke or Bel Merit offer all of those features.

Frankly, if I had to take only one meter, I'd take the Radio Shack for its
versatility. The model I have isn't made any longer, but I think the
replacement is RS 22-812 (http://tinyurl.com/58fmn). The web page doesn't
mention capacitance measurements in the features list, but the instruction
manual says it does. This one has added a PC interface and a protective
boot. It's about $70.

If you're on a real tight budget, a cheaper meter will suffice.

The only ones to really avoid at all costs are the older d'Arsonval meters
built for use before solid state, like the venerable Simpson 260's and the
like that many OT's use. They are FB meters, but load the circuit they test
much more than modern DMM's and, more importantly, they drive the Ohms
measurements with far more voltage and current than is safe for most solid
state electronics. You can destroy a lot of modern circuitry by simply
making a resistance check with one of those. Any of the modern DMM's are
quite safe in that respect. Even the cheap ones.

Ron AC7AC


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[Elecraft] K1 sold

2004-12-17 Thread John Gabbard

Thanks , John  KF7OM

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[Elecraft] K1 FS

2004-12-16 Thread John Gabbard
I would like to sell my K1 #1734. It has 80/17 mtrs on the 2 band board and 
40-15 on the 4 band board also has the KNB1. looks and operates like new and 
up to spec.
 $360. shipped USA  Thanks, John 



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[Elecraft] K1 #1734 maybe for sale

2004-12-15 Thread John Gabbard
K1-2 + 4 KNB No smoke on initial power up,What is a decent asking price 
these days? thanks, John  KF7OM 



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[Elecraft] FS Ten Tec Delta 580 FS

2004-12-10 Thread John Gabbard
Hi Folks,I  have a TT 580 Delta with CW filter excess to my needs,I am 
offering it for 325 shipped,USA.
 it is in good working and in good shape cosmetically. It has WARC bands 
also,as always, the price is negotiable. Thanks and Feliz Navidad!
 John   KF7OM   72' Fallon, Nv. 



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[Elecraft] QF1A FOUND

2004-08-12 Thread John Gabbard
Thanks for the BW much appreciated. 73' John   KF7OM


John Gabbard
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Why Wait?  Move to EarthLink.



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[Elecraft] Wanted QF1A

2004-08-11 Thread John Gabbard

I am looking for an Autek QF1A audio filter,had a good one and sold it for
$40.00. I am restoring a defunct FT-7 and really need an outboard filter of
some type. Thanks   73' John   KF7OM

John Gabbard
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Why Wait?  Move to EarthLink.



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[Elecraft] RE: QF1A wanted

2004-08-11 Thread John Gabbard
I have found my QF1A thanks net, John   KF7OM


 [Original Message]
 From: John Gabbard [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: 8/11/2004 2:44:22 PM
 Subject: QF1A wanted


 I have found the QF1A, thanks net. John  KF7OM

 John Gabbard
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Why Wait?  Move to EarthLink.



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[Elecraft] QF1A wanted

2004-08-11 Thread John Gabbard

I have found the QF1A, thanks net. John  KF7OM

John Gabbard
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Why Wait?  Move to EarthLink.



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[Elecraft] K1 and its ATU

2004-07-29 Thread John Gabbard
I am thinking of ordering the ATU for my K1 and I would like to know if
there is an easy loading length of wire for 80-10 mtrs.? I paln to use a
single wire 67' in length with an insulated radial off the rear panel of the
K1. Does anyone have any comments on that?
  Thanks, John   KF7OM


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