Re: [Elecraft] K2 #7375 Progress!

2012-11-28 Thread KC9QQ
Congratulations on the good start.  It sounds like you are well on your way
to a successful build.  I built SN 6674 about 4 years ago and have had a
blast with it.  I added the KSB2 this summer and managed to uncover a bad
solder joint from my original build!!  Check every joint and take your time
and it will work the first time you fire it up.

73, 

Fred, KC9QQ



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[Elecraft] KDSP2 Audio Filters

2012-08-10 Thread KC9QQ
I recently constructed and installed the KDSP2 in my K2.  I installed it
after I had installed and aligned the KSB2 using Spectrogram.  I notice that
the KDSP2 seems to work wonderful in CW, but when I am listening to SSB
signals the audio sounds as if it is passing through a tin can. 

I saw in another post a discussion on adjusting the AF1..AF4 in addition to
the FL1..FL4.  Is this done using CAL FIL or must this be done within the
KDSP2 menus settings?

I saw the following post on adjusting the KDSP2 audio filters, but the
process to use is not obvious to me:

/You do it just the way you would without the DSP unit. 
First select the pitch you want to have at the center of the filter. 
I use about 550 Hz here. 
Then adjust the KDSP2 for the narrowest setting you want to use, 
say 100 Hz, centered on the pitch you have selected.  Now do 
the adjustments to the crystal filter at its narrowest bandwidth 
until you see the most even symmetrical passband curve. 

Now step the DSP unit to the next wider bandwidth you want, and do 
the same for the crystal filter.  Again adjust the crystal filter 
for the best looking curve at that bandwidth.  Keep doing this up 
to the widest bandwidth of the crystal and DSP filters.  For 
convenience I use the same bandwidth in both filters at a given 
selection setting--XF1=AF1, XF2=AF2, etc. 

Good luck and 73 
Bob N6WG 
The Little Station with Attitude 
/

Thanks,

Fred, KC9QQ



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[Elecraft] KDSP2 Board Layout Image?

2012-08-05 Thread KC9QQ
I just started assembling the KDSP2.  However, I cannot find an image of the
top of the board.  The board is well marked for the assembly, but once the
components are installed I can no longer read the text on the board.  Does
anyone have an image or drawing of the the blank PC board?

Thanks,

Fred, KC9QQ
 



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[Elecraft] KSB2 Problem with Assembly

2012-08-01 Thread KC9QQ
I am currently in the process of assembly a KSB2 (REV E KSB2 PC Board) which
I purchased with my K2 in November 2011.  I am currently completing the
installation of the resistors on the back side of the board.  After I
completed installing the resistors I noticed that I had an extra 10K
resistor.  I then checked my inventory and it showed that I had inventoried
3 10K resistors versus the 2 called for in inventory sheet.  

Just to be safe I downloaded the latest manual and compared it to my manual. 
It lists an additional four resistors on the back of the board (R21, R22,
R23 and R24). 

I have two questions:

1.  Should I be concerned that these resistors are not on the Rev E board?

2.  What is the purpose of the additional resistors?

Thanks,

Fred, KC9QQ



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[Elecraft] Question about jumper wire on control board

2012-07-30 Thread KC9QQ
There is a small jumper wire on the upper right hand corner of the control
board.   Is this wire shown on the schematic.  If so where and if not where
should it be shown.  I developed an intermittent in my K2 after about 3
years and finally discovered that I had failed to solder one of this
jumper!!  I would like to be able to tie the symptoms to the location of the
bad connection. 

Thanks,

Fred, KC9QQ



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Dial Calibration Question

2012-07-29 Thread KC9QQ
Thanks Don.  I downloaded your procedure and will go through it this week. 
Thanks again for your quick response.

Fred




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[Elecraft] K2 Dial Calibration Question

2012-07-28 Thread KC9QQ
I have noticed that my K2 dial calibration seems to match my ICOM 756 Pro III
for all CW stations.  However, when I compare signals SSB signals the K2
seems to be off by about 200 cycles.  Is this a dial calibration issue or
something related to the filters?  

I had not noticed this until I installed the K2IO and started to use Spot
Collector spots to tune the rig through the K2IO.  When I tune in spots I
noticed that they are off by about 200 cycles.  I only use the rig for CW
QRP so I had not noticed this before.  I do not have a K2 SSB adapter in the
rig.

Fred, KC9QQ




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Re: [Elecraft] Accessory Build order

2011-11-12 Thread KC9QQ
Don,

Thanks for you detailed reply.  I think I will install the KIO2 first so I
can interface the K2 to my computer for CW contesting.

I don't know if I was being very patient or just afraid I would break the K2
which was already working so well!

Fred, KC9QQ

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[Elecraft] Accessory Build order

2011-11-11 Thread KC9QQ
I hope this is a simple question.

I built my K2 nearly two years ago and it has been working flawlessly. 
After I completed the construction and alignment of the base unit I had
planned to build and install the KSB2, KDSP2, KNB2, KIO2, and KAT2
(purchased with the original K2).  I was so pleased with the performance of
the basic radio for QRP CW operation that I never got around to building and
installing the other kits.  

Is there a preferred order I should follow for building and installing the
above kits?  If so, all advice and opinions are welcomed.  This should make
a nice project for one of our Indiana snow storms this winter.

Thanks,

Fred, KC9QQ

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 working on 40M

2010-02-11 Thread KC9QQ


lstavenhagen wrote:
 
 Hi all,
 
 In case anyone's interested, I got through with test and alignment II on
 my K2 last night. Everything seemed to proceed normally.
 
 
 On to build phase III
 
 LS
 
Congratulations on your success.  I remember how excited I was last year
when I powered up my K2 and was able to receive signals on 40m.  Just take
your time and you will be rewarded with a wonderful radio.  There are a ton
of parts on the RF board, but the each get added one at a time.  Double
check each parts value and solder joints and it should work the first time.  

Have fun,

Fred, KC9QQ
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 kit recieved

2010-01-27 Thread KC9QQ

You may also want to purchase a lighted magnifier (the type with an
adjustable boom which connects to your desk or has a weighted  base).  I
purchased one at one of the big box office supply stores for about $29.  I
found it to be a big help examining my soldering.  I also used it to make
most of the solder connections.  It removed much of the stress from the
tight solder connections.  Maybe I am just old enough that I needed the
help.   

Go slow and enjoy the experience.  I spent about two weeks building the kit
and was rewarded with a fully operational kit on the first try.

Have fun,

Fred, KC9QQ


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Re: [Elecraft] K2-Split/Rit/Xit led

2009-03-11 Thread KC9QQ

Here is a link to N0SS's website which has a number of K2 mods.

http://www.n0ss.net/index_k2.html http://www.n0ss.net/index_k2.html 



Yves Dussault wrote:
 
 I see on page 84 of my manual a reference to the associated application 
 note, about installing a SPLIT/RIT/XIT led.
 Where can I find this application note?
 
 -- 
 Yves Dussault-VE2ATD
 Laval, QC, Canada
 
 yvesdussa...@videotron.ca
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] S/N 6698 is alive now!!!

2009-03-08 Thread KC9QQ

Congratulations Mike!

I completed my K2 about 5 weeks ago and have been having a great time
operating low power CW.  I purchased the SSB, DSP, NB ant Antenna tuner, but
I have been enjoying the base radio so much, I haven't gotten around to
finishing up the options.  They will make nice rainy day projects.  I hope
you have as much fun with the K2 as I am having.

Fred, KC9QQ




WE0H wrote:
 
 Just got done testing the TX  RX on K2 S/N 6698 and all is working per 
 the manual. Now onto the options...
 
 Mike
 WE0H
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: question re: antenna/rig swtich

2009-03-05 Thread KC9QQ

You may want to check out the products from TopTen.  They are a little
pricey, but they are what are used by many of the Multi-Multi contest
stations to share six antennas with 6 high power operator stations.  I just
purchased one of their A/B switches to switch a single antenna between my K2
and Pro III.  It provides 80 db isolation and uses interlocked relays to
avoid the possibility of a relay failure allowing power to allow transmitter
power to flow back into the rig not being used.  

If you look at the application note one their site, it shows a setup very
similar to what you describe.

Here is the link to the site:   http://www.qth.com/topten/abss.htm
http://www.qth.com/topten/abss.htm  

Fred, KC9QQ



Greg Buhyoff wrote:
 
 Group,
 
 This is off topic and I would deeply appreciate any responses to be
 sent to me off list.  I am posting here because I respect the
 knowledge and experience of the people who are members of this
 reflector.
 
 This may sound stupid but I have not had experience with this before,
 so I ask before I do something stupid.
 
 I use an external antenna switch mounted on the outside wall of my
 house to switch in one of six antennas and have a single coax line
 coming into the radio room.   I now have four separate radio stations,
 2 K3s and two other radios, all set up differently for different types
 and modes of operation.  All have amps in line that can be used when
 needed -- one a KW and the others 750w output.  Currently I manually
 attach the output coax for the station I want to use to the coax lead
 coming into the house from the external switch.  A pain.
 
 I want to be able to simply use a manual switch to select the station
 that would connect to the external antenna switch coax lead into the
 radio room.  I would then use the manual antenna switch to select the
 station and the remote controller to select the antenna...
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1] KX1 #02140

2009-02-19 Thread KC9QQ

Congratulations on your KX1 kit.  I'm sure you will really enjoy building the
kit.  I completed building a K2 about a month ago and enjoyed every minute. 
I would suggest the purchase of a lighted magnifier because it makes the
construction and soldering much easier.  Doing the soldering using a
magnifier takes a little getting used to, but once you develop the hand eye
coordination of the iron under the magnifier you will find it much less
stressful making the solder connections.

I bought a low cost lighted magnifier from Staples for around $30.  It was
worth every penny.

Fred, KC9QQ



EMD wrote:
 
 Hello Elecrafters,
 
 Well I will start building my KX1 in a few days.  I have been getting the
 required equipment and being a first time builder I feel a little over
 whelmed but reading all the the hints and tips on the reflector has made
 it a lot easier.  So far I have what I think will get me started, the big
 item was a soldering station.  I bought a Radio Shack Digital soldering
 station which is basically a Madell AT201D.  I did not realize that the RS
 version did not come with extra tips but after a few minutes on the
 comments section I found out where the tips are available, at madell.com
 of course.  The tip included I don't think would work well since it's a
 needle tip so I ordered the spade tip recommended by Elecraft, plus 2
 extras.  I also bought a anti static mat and Kester #44 solder 0.025
 diameter 3.3% Flux from Digi-Key.
 
 My plan is to first build the radio and follow the alignment steps, then
 add the antenna tuner.  Once the radio is complete I'll learn how to use
 it, not to mention CW, and then add the the 30 80 meter add on board.  I
 thought about adding the 3080m board at the same time but since I have not
 built a kit since my high school days I don't want to get ahead of myself
 so I think the one thing at a time plan would be best for me.
 
 I have not bought any de-soldering equipment yet but but I'm sure that
 will be next on the list. I am looking forward to getting started and I'm
 already looking ahead to building the K1 and then the k2.
 
 Ed
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Dead K2 After nearby power surge

2009-02-11 Thread KC9QQ



KC9QQ wrote:
 
 I also just noticed that the power output transistors Q7 and Q8 are
 getting
 warm when the power is on.  I did not say  before but, their is no display
 or any other activity on the control board or front panel.
 
 Fred, KC9QQ
 
 
 
 
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I also just notice that the transistors Q7 and Q8 are getting warm when the
unit is powered.  Even though the display is dead.

Fred
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Re: [Elecraft] Working K2 Now K2 After nearby power surge or lightning strike

2009-02-11 Thread KC9QQ



KC9QQ wrote:
 
 
 
 KC9QQ wrote:
 
 I also just noticed that the power output transistors Q7 and Q8 are
 getting
 warm when the power is on.  I did not say  before but, their is no
 display
 or any other activity on the control board or front panel.
 
 Fred, KC9QQ
 
 
 
 I also just notice that the transistors Q7 and Q8 are getting warm when
 the unit is powered.  Even though the display is dead.
 
 Fred
 

I also pulled the control board and re-powered the unit with the control
board removed.  I heard relays click on the RF board.  I then re-installed
the control board and re-powered the unit.  The display came on for just a
few seconds with the Elecraft name and then went blank probably after the
12V pulled down.

I am not quite sure where to look to further isolate the issue.  I know the
unit was on the 40 M band when the problem occurred.

Fred
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Dead K2 After nearby power surge

2009-02-11 Thread KC9QQ



Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
 
 Fred,
 
 In cases like yours, first step is to connect a dummy load to the K2 
 just in case it is trying to transmit - it is not good to enter transmit 
 state without a load on the PA transistors.  If it is a K2/100, remove 
 the KPA100 and connect the dummy load to the BNC antenna jack on the 
 lower rear panel.
 
 First thing is to check the state of the 8T and 8R voltage rails. Those 
 are easily checked at the anodes of D6 and D7.  If D7 anode has 8 volts 
 on it while D6 anode has zero volts, then the K2 is in a transmit 
 state.  If both D7 and D6 anodes have 8 volts present, power it only 
 briefly while making further checks lest some components overheat.
 
 If both 8T and 8R are present, you need to check the state of the RX 
 signal at the gate of control board Q4 as well as the TX signal at the 
 gate of CB Q3 - one should be on (about 5 volts) while the other should 
 be off (near zero volts).  If both of these are on, the microprocessor 
 was zapped with the power surge, but if only one is on, the problem is a 
 shorted Q3 or Q4 on the control board.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 Fred Keller wrote:
 I also just noticed that the power output transistors Q7 and Q8 are 
 getting warm when the power is on.  I did not say  before but, their 
 is no display or any other activity on the control board or front panel.

 Fred, KC9QQ


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Don,

I pulled the control board again to reset the relays and then reinstalled it
to make the measurements on D6 and D7.  When I powered the unit, Elecraft
was again shown and the frequency of 7100 was briefly displayed.  When then
display went out I measured the anodes and cathodes of both d6 and d7 and
measured nearly zero volts on both.

Fred

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Re: [Elecraft] Dead K2 After nearby power surge

2009-02-11 Thread KC9QQ



KC9QQ wrote:
 
 
 
 Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
 
 Fred,
 
 In cases like yours, first step is to connect a dummy load to the K2 
 just in case it is trying to transmit - it is not good to enter transmit 
 state without a load on the PA transistors.  If it is a K2/100, remove 
 the KPA100 and connect the dummy load to the BNC antenna jack on the 
 lower rear panel.
 
 First thing is to check the state of the 8T and 8R voltage rails. Those 
 are easily checked at the anodes of D6 and D7.  If D7 anode has 8 volts 
 on it while D6 anode has zero volts, then the K2 is in a transmit 
 state.  If both D7 and D6 anodes have 8 volts present, power it only 
 briefly while making further checks lest some components overheat.
 
 If both 8T and 8R are present, you need to check the state of the RX 
 signal at the gate of control board Q4 as well as the TX signal at the 
 gate of CB Q3 - one should be on (about 5 volts) while the other should 
 be off (near zero volts).  If both of these are on, the microprocessor 
 was zapped with the power surge, but if only one is on, the problem is a 
 shorted Q3 or Q4 on the control board.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 
 
 
 
 Don,
 
 I pulled the control board again to reset the relays and then reinstalled
 it to make the measurements on D6 and D7.  When I powered the unit,
 Elecraft was again shown and the frequency of 7100 was briefly displayed. 
 When then display went out I measured the anodes and cathodes of both d6
 and d7 and measured nearly zero volts on both. 
 

I tested the voltages on D6 and D7 anodes again when I powered up.  I had to
power up twice, but each showed around 7 volts before they fell to near
zero.  I have found that I can let the unit sit for a few minutes before I
re-power and I don't have to pull the control board to reset the relays. 
This only gives me about 2 seconds to make the measurement.
The voltage on the gate of Q4 is 5 volts.  The voltage on the Gate of Q3 is
close to zero for the brief period I have to make the measurement.  After a
few moments the gate of Q4 drops to zero.

 How do I tell which is shorted?  I made the following measurements to
resistance measurements referenced to ground.

Q3
  S  - 0.4 M
  G  - 5.4 M
  D  - 8.1 M

Q4
  S  -  0.3 ohms 
  G  -  3.9 K ohms
  D  -  8.1 K ohms

I am assuming the culprit is Q4.  Am I correct?  Is it possible the
something else is fried that may take out Q4 if I install a replacement?  I
still have 4 boards that I have not built (SSB, DSP2, AT and NB).   I
believe at least one of these has a 2N7000 I can rob for a temporary
replacement.  I just don't want to install it until I am sure another
failure somewhere else upstream won't cause it to fail.  Are there any other
items I should check before I replace the failed transistor?  

Thanks,

Fred


Fred
Fred

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Re: [Elecraft] HRD cw copy

2009-01-21 Thread KC9QQ



Great! What is the setup for copy cw. I must be overlooking it

Don...


In HRD click the DM780 button.  After DM780 starts there will be a pull down
above the water fall display which has CW as one of the options.  Select the
CW option and then click on one of the signals in the waterfall display to
start receiving CW.

Fred, KC9QQ

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