[Elecraft] K2: Diry RF Gain pot?
The adjustment action on my RF gain control is erratic. The gain level always settles down almost immediately once I quit rotating the knob, but still too erratic for easy adjustment. Is this a case of spraying some cleaner on the pot or replacing it? 73, Steve N6VL K2 #2289 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Pouch for K2?
Mountain-Ops, now out of business, used to make a pack for the K2 called the TacPack. See http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/1754. I'd like to find or make something similar. The pack from Power Port at http://www.powerportstore.com/k1_and_k2_support.htm does not interest me. It is more like luggage than a pack. I want something to operate the K2 in the field while the pack or pouch. Are there any workable solutions out there? 73, Steve N6VL K2/100 #2289 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2: Help, I messed up the dial calibration!!!
Don, I finally got to within 10 to 15 Hz at 10 MHz now. I decided to use MixW for the 500/600 Hz WWV tones. It works really well for that part of the calibration. I had misread your web site. You do endorse the N6KR method. I did find the WWV Signal Format web page. Out here on the west coast, WWVH also mixes into the MixW waterfall as a weaker trace when only one tone is present from WWV. I found the best tool for C22 tweaking is a small glasses repair kit screw driver. My plastic tool could do the real fine adjustments due to the tightness of C22. Of course the screw driver is removed before taking readings. The part that wasn't clear to me at first, was the need to redo CAL PLL CAL FIL after EACH C22 adjustment. I read so many comments on the reflector archives that mentioned simply listening to WWV and listen for zero beat. Obviously that is in the greater context of CAL PLL CAL FIL reruns. There must to something electrical loose in my K2. I had the CAL FCTR TP1 TP2 values matching once then they changed a few minutes later. Using Spectrogram or MixW in LSB/USB modes easier than the CW spot method I used. Somewhere I read the CW spot audio signal may not to very accurate. Even though I am confident in my tone matching abilities my ear. Not sure if I could do it in the time it took you to write it up, maybe 30 to 60 minutes for me! A video on YouTube would be real nice, except K2 has given way to the K3 in popularity. The bottom line: my calibration is twice as accurate (half the delta) against WWV, than before, although in the opposite direction. Thanks for your help! 73, Steve N6VL K2/100 #2289 Don Wilhelm wrote: Steve, Yes, the 4 MHz reference may have to be set a few Hz different than exactly 4.0 MHz to calibrate the dial accurately. The best method I know of is to feed the K2 audio into a computer running Spectrogram. This method compensates out any difference between 4 MHz and the actual required frequency for the reference - one does not even need to be concerned about the reference frequency with this method. On the Spectrogram line display, set markers (pointers) for 500 and 600 Hz. Now tune WWV in LSB (or USB if you prefer) - 10, or 15 MHz, either is OK - 20MHz requires a bit of a difference in the VFO/BFO calculation due the the sum of the oscillators rather than the difference. When you look at the Spectral line display of the WWV transmission, you will see the carrier (only if you are mistuned), and a transmitted tone (wait until the do transmit a tone). The tone is normally either 500 or 600 Hz, but there is a 440 Hz tone for one minute each hour and there are some non-tone minutes. You can look up the transmission format on the web and it will tell you which minute is which tone - or you can just wait and watch the tones alternate. The short tone transmitted for one second at the beginning of each hour is always1000 Hz, so I move the cursor to 1000 Hz (read the frequency in the lower left box of the screen) and click to place a crosshair at 1000 Hz too, it is a handy reference if WWV is weak ir the other tones are not clear. Now that you have the Spectrogram 'picture' of WWV and have identified the relevant tones in the audio (the carrier, and one of the transmitted tones), tune the VFO first listening until the voice sounds rather clear - then you may see the carrier near zero Hz and the tone near the 500 or 600 Hz marker that you have set. Tune the VFO until the tone is lined up exactly with the marker. Wait until the next tone minute to be certain you are tuned correctly and not 100 Hz off. Enter CAL FCTR, then check to see if the tones are still lined up - you can fine tune a bit if necessary, but when you have the VFO set correctly (for the tones, not the dial reading - the dial reading will not be correct - that is why you are going to all this trouble). Do not move the VFO after this, you will next be adjusting C22. Now, you move the probe between TP1 and TP2 until the frequency difference is exactly equal to the WWV transmitted frequency. Since WWV transmitts on .000 kHz boundaries, just look for the low order digits to be the same at TP1 and TP2. If the digits are not the same, adjust C22 a bit and see if the frequencies got closer. Once C22 is adjusted correcctly, the low order digits of the BFO (TP2) and the VFO (TP1) will match exactly, and you can declare that C22 is now set exactly right - do not touch it again. Now, switch to 40 meters and run CAL PLL followed by CAL FIL (change each BFO setting even if it is correct - moving it up a bit and back down to where it was constitutes a 'change' to the K2. Once that has happened, you are done. Tune WWV again as before and note the dial setting - you should find it no more than 20 Hz off. The DAC limit of tuning varies with frequency, but averages about 13 Hz, so 20 Hz is within the expected practical tolerance
[Elecraft] K2: squeezing rig causing frequency change...
I was trying to calibrate the frequency on my K2/100 and noticed that the received beat frequency changed when attaching the top cover (the KPA100 option). After putting the mounting screws back in, I noticed the frequency will again change when squeezing the top and bottom covers towards each other with my fingers. The change is about 50 to 100 Hz or so. Is this normal? Somewhat I don't think so, but hadn't paid attention before. I've been monitoring WWV on 10 MHz in CW mode beating against the spot tone. There is constant carrier to beat against, and I that's how I noticed the beat frequency changed. In the meanwhile I will tighten everything down again. 73, Steve N6VL K2/100 #2289 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2: Help, I messed up the dial calibration!!!
I was trying to calibrate my K2/100 and had it within 10 Hz according to WWV 10 MHz. I should have left it alone. Now it is off by about 700 to 800 Hz on 40 meters. Ouch! Here are the steps I did so far: 1. I set the C22 trimmer on the Control Board by the N6KR method at http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com/n6kr_method.htm. I set the dial at exactly 10.000.00 MHz, and alternated between TP1 TP2 until the readings CAL FCTR match with about 2 Hz. 2. I ran CAL PLL. 3. I ran CAL FIL on every mode / filter combination, being sure to change the BFO hex value even if not needed. I didn't build the K2 in the first place. So I never did the entire procedure before. Any help is welcome! 73, Steve N6VL K2/100 #2289 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2: Help, I messed up the dial calibration!!!
Don, I got back it in the ball park. I read the W5YR instructions on your web site, about the 5th harmonic of 4 MHz of 20 MHz. Fortunately WWV on 20 MHz is still coming in on the west coast, but fading out. After all this work, I am back where I was except about 40 Hz low for zero beat on 10 MHz, instead of the former 30 Hz, before exercise in futility hi hi. Yes I am using CW mode, but not in the way you think. My CW Pitch is set of 450 Hz. I turn on the CW spot, adjust the volume, listen for zero beat against the WWV carrier. CW Reverse is usually within 10 Hz using this method. I don't like zero beating with LSB/USB because of the guess work of determining the 0 Hz beat with such a wide frequency range of sub-audible tones. One thing I discovered is that C22 can't be adjust while listening for zero beat with a known reference like WWV. I suspect after each tweak of C22, CAL PLL and CAL FIL should be rerun. Is this correct? Also CAL FIL seems to change zero beat anyway. You say on you web site that 30 Hz is a reasonable ball park figure. I'd prefer to be closer. WWV 10 MHz is zero beat at 9.97 MHz LSB 9.95 MHz USB. That is a little much for me. I am not sure if C22 needs re-tweaking or maybe a slight change in CAL FIL for LSB/USB OP1. I don't have a frequency counter here. But I do have another rig with a 2nd receiver. It picks up the 4 MHz clock (and its 5th harmonic) easily with a pickup loop. What do you think the easiest way is for me get it closer with these tools? At least I am in the ball park again! 73, Steve N6VL K2/100 #2289 Don Wilhelm wrote: Steve, Your steps are correct. It sounds like you are off by the amount of your sidetone pitch. Were you receiving WWV in LSB or USB mode? If you used CW mode, that would explain the difference. Are you quite certain that you tuned WWV accurately? Do not 'set the dial at 10,000.00', but instead, ignore the dial and tune until WWV is received correctly. I use Spectrogram for that with markers (pointers) set at 500 and 600 Hz for that. When correctly tuned, you will see the tones alternate each minute from 500 to 600 Hz (yes, I know there are no-tone minutes, and one minute shortly after the hour is 440 Hz, but mostly they alternated between 500 and 600 Hz.). When done correctly (mostly tuning WWV accurately), you results will be within 20 Hz of WWV. One cannot expect much better than that due to the DAC resolution used in the K2. I do this most every day, and it has become 'old hat' to me - use Spectrogram to verify the correct tuning - ignore the K2 dial display until the last verification step. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3: is it SDR?
Sorry, but I'm not sure I agree. By that definition many radios since the 80s would be SDRs. My definition of an SDR is a radio that could be radically changed in functionality by a software change. Perhaps the K3 fits that definition with firmware changes. But does the K3 modulate or demodulate a signal using analog or digital techniques. I am ignorant about the K3's architecture. For example, early SSB rigs used a balanced modulator that nulled the carrier. Then a filter selected LSB or USB. I think true SDR would do that entirely in software. How does the K3 generate SSB? OK, I am biased. I am a FLEX-5000A owner. That said, I'd love to have a K3, but it is beyond me financially right now. I love my K2/100 because it is NOT tied to a PC for basic operation. I plan to keep both radios. I'd also accept a K3/100 as charitable contribution, hi hi! 73, Steve N6VL K2/100 #2289 Lyle Johnson wrote: So if one owns a K3, does that match your concept (or the ARRL's) of an SDR? How would YOU answer? It is IMHO. SDR means software defined, and the K3 is defined by software. Whatever gets through the roofing filter is handled by DSP in transmit and receive. This is quite different from PC-based, or open source, which is what some folks seem to mean when by SDR. Frankly, most HF radios introduced in the 21st century are SDR, and many in the 90's. If it is IF (not AF) DSP, it is probably SDR. How does the ARRL define SDR? 73, Lyle KK7P ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2: Help, I messed up the dial calibration!!!
Don, Sorry I didn't fully read your comments before my first reply. Could you briefly explain how you calibrate with the 500 600 Hz markers? Can it be done in real time while tweaking C22? I can't do it. I have C22 set exactly to 4 MHz via the 20 MHz WWV method, with a perfect zero beat. Yet, I am about 40 Hz off on WWV 10 MHz. Apparently there is more than setting the clock to exactly 4 MHz followed by CAL PLL/CAL FIL. If you have some canned document of the 500/600 Hz tones Spectogram method , let me know. 73, Steve N6VL K2/100 #2289 Don Wilhelm wrote: Steve, Your steps are correct. It sounds like you are off by the amount of your sidetone pitch. Were you receiving WWV in LSB or USB mode? If you used CW mode, that would explain the difference. Are you quite certain that you tuned WWV accurately? Do not 'set the dial at 10,000.00', but instead, ignore the dial and tune until WWV is received correctly. I use Spectrogram for that with markers (pointers) set at 500 and 600 Hz for that. When correctly tuned, you will see the tones alternate each minute from 500 to 600 Hz (yes, I know there are no-tone minutes, and one minute shortly after the hour is 440 Hz, but mostly they alternated between 500 and 600 Hz.). When done correctly (mostly tuning WWV accurately), you results will be within 20 Hz of WWV. One cannot expect much better than that due to the DAC resolution used in the K2. I do this most every day, and it has become 'old hat' to me - use Spectrogram to verify the correct tuning - ignore the K2 dial display until the last verification step. 73, Don W3FPR Steve Kallal wrote: I was trying to calibrate my K2/100 and had it within 10 Hz according to WWV 10 MHz. I should have left it alone. Now it is off by about 700 to 800 Hz on 40 meters. Ouch! Here are the steps I did so far: 1. I set the C22 trimmer on the Control Board by the N6KR method at http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com/n6kr_method.htm. I set the dial at exactly 10.000.00 MHz, and alternated between TP1 TP2 until the readings CAL FCTR match with about 2 Hz. 2. I ran CAL PLL. 3. I ran CAL FIL on every mode / filter combination, being sure to change the BFO hex value even if not needed. I didn't build the K2 in the first place. So I never did the entire procedure before. Any help is welcome! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2: Audio hiss in headphones w/ KDSP2...
Thanks to all those who help with the the hiss problem. I was able to find a comment in the original thread by WA8SRA. Dale's solution is at http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2003-October/024744.html. However I found a reply to Dale at http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2003-October/024746.html http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2003-October/024744.html that mentions success doing the AF-Gain-Control Mod instead. My K2 is dated, sn 2289. All the new K2s already have this mod. I did the mod. It took me about 2 hours and is well worth the effort. I am amazed at the quality of audio in my headphones. I don't feel the need to do the WA8SRA, at least not right away. The soft audio hiss only appears in my headphones when the volume is at 3/4 max now, rather than at min as before. It feels like a whole new K2. I had long suspected something wasn't quite right with my K2. That is the problem w/ buying an older K2 as I did a year ago. Thanks to all those who helped! 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] [K2] BAND+ push button failure...
I just did the AF-Gain-Control Mod on my older K2 sn 2289. After reassembly, the gray BAND+ is starting to fail. It is used a lot for KDSP2 programming and does always recognize a push and hold function now. It often interprets it as a momentary push. I could and should just order the new part from Elecraft. I wonder if some contact cleaner spray would help? I have some Radio Shack spray cleaner already. I would like to hear from others on this reflector first. It is odd that the failure started just after completely removing the front panel and reassembling it. 73, Steve N6VL K2/100 sn 2289 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] BAND+ push button failure...
Don, I just spent most of the afternoon going over every trace that is part of the connection between the Front Panel, RF, Control boards looking for solder bridges and frayed wires. Remember this started as a volume control mod requiring cuts and jumpers on all the above boards. That said, I noticed the BAND+ tap/hold works every time if I push the button differently. I normally push the button horizontally, that is towards the rear of the rig. The tap/hold function works every thing if I press vertically towards the bottom of the rig. That makes me suspect the switch is going bad. It doesn't explain why the problem just started after my other volume control mod. I will probably order some switches from Elecraft and see if that fixes it. 73, Steve N6VL Don Wilhelm wrote: Steve, As you said is only started after disassembling the front panel, I would suggest looking for some other cause than the button itself. Check the soldering of the pushbutton well. If you do disassemble the board from the front panel again, you might try soldering the pushbutton from the top - the leads do not stick very far through the holes and it may not have been heated adequately in the initial soldering process. Pushbutton failures are rare. They are sealed, so I do not think the cleaner spray would be effective, but it may be worth a try. If you remove the left side panel, you can get to the edge of the pushbutton without disassembling anything else. The microprocessor interprets the tap/hold selection, not the pushbutton itself - of course the contacts could be bouncing and causing the problem, but a bad solder connection might also behave that way too. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] BAND+ push button failure...
Don, I am about to change my mind. Now I am having a flaky response from the XFIL button, much the same symptoms. I already went through the Front Panel, Control, RF boards earlier today. Now I am out of ideas. I must of jarred something loose when do the volume control mod. 73, Steve Kallal Don Wilhelm wrote: Steve, That certainly sounds like you have one of those rare occurrences - a bad switch. It certainly can happen - actually most any part can fail at times, but a bad switch is quite low on my list of usual suspects. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2: Audio hiss in headphones w/ KDSP2...
I posted this question before and never got any response. I have a K2/100 SN 2289 w/ the KDSP2. There is a definite soft hiss in the headphone output. It disappears completely when putting the KDSP2 into bypass mode. So I know it is from the DSP and not from QRN. I use the K2/100 almost exclusively for CW. The hiss often covers a weak signal particularly when the RF gain is turned down. The hiss doesn't seem to be a problem through the speaker. I rarely listen wo/ headphones. Switching headphones has not made any difference. A search of this reflector's archives has produced an older thread on the topic. But there was not a definite fix for the problem. One suggestion was to put a shunt capacitor across the headphone audio line too act as a low pass filter. That might be OK for CW, but could be a problem w/ SSB. Please let me know if someone has this problem or has resolved it. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2: Audio hiss in headphones w/ KDSP2...
Tnx Lyle, I've seen that link before. It links to http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2003-10/msg00581.html which is broken. Maybe I can browse the old archives 2003-10 from a different archive. 73, Steve N6VL - Original Message From: Lyle Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Steve Kallal [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 4:32:09 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2: Audio hiss in headphones w/ KDSP2... Please let me know if someone has this problem or has resolved it. URL:http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/K2/modAny.html#KDSP2 and look up the link for Hiss Reduction by adding the KAF2 LC-filter. 73, Lyle KK7P ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Can't turn K2 volume all the way down...
I can't turn the volume all the way down my my K2/100 SN #2289. It has the KDSP2 option installed. Don't remember if I had the problem before installing the KDSP2 unit. Also have the KPA-100 option installed. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 KDSP2 hiss...
I notice that the KDSP2 puts out a soft hiss in my headphones. Putting the KDSP2 into bypass eliminates this. A search of the archives doesn't produce any results. Is this normal, or do I have some troubleshooting to do. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KAT100 with Ladder Line
OK, I know this thread is over two weeks old, but I have to chime in. I have two of the 275 watt Johnson Matchboxes. One needs repairing right now. I think the 80 meter switching is defective. I borrowed an idea from a review on eham.net. The Matchbox doesn't do well with low impedances. The reviewer said to use a toriodal Un-Un to step down the impedance. And it works! A toroid at the input doesn't suffer from the disadvantages that the toroid on the output as a balun does. It will always see a non-reactive load when you tune the Matchbox. The only real downside is the extra gadget hanging off of the Matchbox with coax leads. Another idea is to move the tap on the input link closer to the grounded end. I moved it down a couple of turns. My delta loop with balanced feeders, wouldn't tune on 80 without the Un-Un mentioned above. Moving the tap down a couple of turns did trick. It is too bad the link coupled tuners aren't made anymore. Yes MFJ makes the 974H. I have it and it does match well on all frequencies. But the small knobs are touching to work it on some loads. Also the review in 9/2004 QST showed to 974H not to be as efficient on the lower bands on lower impedances. The Matchbox showed real high efficiency. The Un-Un might reduce the efficiency a little, but it is way better than an output balun. Moving the input coil tap is probably the most efficient of all. I hope this info helps some of those how have a Matchbox, but are frustrated by the limited tuning range. 73, Steve N6VL K2 #2289 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Goody K3NG Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 11:00 AM To: Elecraft List Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 with Ladder Line Using any balun with an unbalanced tuner to feed balanced line can be bad news (your mileage may vary, standard disclaimers apply). Under highly reactive loads, a balun used like this can become quite lossy. There's a couple articles in publications and on the Internet on this, but Cebik's article is one that comes to mind ( http://www.cebik.com/link/l-bal.html ). It's better to run a real balanced tuner like a Johnson Matchbox, the MFJ Balanced Line tuner, or others, if you can. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 - DSP - Impressive
David, Wow, the default Beta and Decay settings leave me with a lot of distortion. I can tolerate more distortion on SSB than on CW. The denoiser makes CW sound scratchy, but till copyable. I left the Beta setting close to the default, but really reduced the Decay setting. I put it down to 30, though I did have it down to 5 at one point. I guess I am used to DSP with less distortion. My 756PROII is able to reduce the noise level without the degree of distortion present in the KDSP2. The KDSP2 does get the job done. I starting to prefer the bandpass filtering over the denoiser, and only use the denoiser if really needed. For example, I use the narrowest filter setting of 50 Hz, for the CW bandpass filter. I've found it can work better than the denoiser in most situations. 73, Steve N6VL K2 #2289 -Original Message- From: David Wilburn [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 10:20 AM To: Steve Kallal Cc: 'Elecraft Discussion List' Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 - DSP - Impressive I set everything back to the default settings. Then the only ones I ended up change was the SSB CW gain settings. After that, when I want to use the DSP, I would step through the different freq widths that are supplied by S1(NR1, NR2, NR3, NR4), then S2(NR1, NR2, NR3, NR4), and so on. This is the piece that I did not get the first time around. My initial tinkering had focused on the settings you mentioned. But it seems to me, that tinkering with Beta and Decay, before you have worked through the existing setup, that is the application of the various filter widths to you problem noise, is going about the process from the wrong end. Perhaps Lyle can explain it better. I hit DISPLAY to get into the DSP settings, usually C1 .nr (for CW) or S1 .nr .nt (for SSB) is seen at this point. If not, press RCL untill one of them is visible. Then pressing STORE brings up C1 .nr1, pressing STORE again, brings up C1 .nr2, and so on till you are back at C1 .nr1. If I do not find a suitable setting in the first 4 filter settings, I then press AFIL to take me to CF2. Now pressing DISPLAY followed by STORE brings up C2 .nr, and I can go through these steps again. This cycle can be continued through CF3 and CF4. In performing these steps, I have not needed to fiddle with Beta and Decay. I assume and changes to Beta and Decay, impact all 16 filters per mode. Hope this helps. It sure made a big difference in how I use the radio. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 FP#-1751 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 - DSP - Impressive
David, Can you shared the settings you settled on, by mode? Especially include the Beta and Decay settings. 73, Steve N6VL K2 #2289 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Wilburn Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 4:15 PM To: Elecraft Discussion List Subject: [Elecraft] K2 - DSP - Impressive I have had the DSP for the K2 now for some time. I have to admit, I got the instructions out the first couple times I played with it, but I did not quite get it as far as the settings and the menu choices, and just kinda left things alone. Over the intervening weeks, when I would get on SSB to chat with friends I kept tinkering with it, and trying different settings (it didn't really seem to need to be fiddled with on CW). Eventually I had the thing so screwed up, that it was more of a hindrance than a help. So I broke down and printed out a section of the manual (I'm more of a soft copy kinda guy, but don't what to start that thread up again) and sat down at the radio to try and get the DSP back to all of its default settings. Now, as it turns out, reading through the manual, it is not abundantly obvious (for some of us denser folks) how to do this, but when I read a bit, and tinkered a bit, I worked through it just fine. Except for SSB #1 and the LowPass settings, I couldn't make that happen. Once I worked through all of the settings for each filter setup, I learned quite a bit. As many have said before me, this is a VERY impressive DSP. I did not fully understand the capabilities and settings till now. It is definitely worth the investment of time to learn. I even broke down and read through Lyle's Design Considerations for the KDSP. As always, great stuff. Thanks again Elecraft. Not only do you supply great equipment, but your documentation gives explanations of how the equipment works, thus we become more knowledgeable operators. Thanks, and great job! -- David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Can't acess KDSP2 menus...
I'm looking at page 24 of the KDSP2 manual. In the KDSP2 Primary Menu section it says: In SSB or CW modes, the primary menu is used for the auto-notch and noise reduction functions. In RTTY, the primary menu is the Filters menu, described below. From the primary menu, you can toggle the noise reduction adaptive filter (generally referred to as a denoiser and, in the SSB mode, the auto-notch filter. You can also adjust the denoiser's level from 1 (least aggressive) to 4 (most aggressive). Let's assume you were in SSB mode using filter 2. Tap the DISPLAY button to bring up the primary menu in the K2 display: S2 nr nt At this point I don't get the results shown the manual. If I'm in the menu, I toggle to between Pri and Sec. Otherwise I get the voltage and current readings. Is there something wrong with the manual? What am I doing wrong? Where is the filters menu? Help!!! 73, Steve N6VL K2 #2289 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Can't acess KDSP2 menus...
Jim, I found the problem. I didn't have RTC turned on the Secondary menu. It wasn't turned on with the KAF2, so I left it off. The KDSP2 requires it to be turned for the DSP to work. That said, please go ahead and send the logic diagram for the menus. I have the Nifty for the K2, which goes into the KDSP2 in detail. Somehow I've misplaced it. Thanks, 73, Steve N6VL K2 #2289 From: James Allen [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 11:55 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Steve Kallal Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Can't acess KDSP2 menus... Steve, I will send you a logic diagram for the menus. This should hopefully help. Jim ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KSB2 OP1 filter USB response...
It has been a few weeks since I built the KSB2 option. There is one problem I haven't yet resolved. The response on the USB side of OP1 is not as broad as the LSB side, and has a narrower peak. I didn't pay much attention to this before. I've never transmitted in USB except for the digital modes using RTTY reverse. I'm not much of a SSB guy. These observations were made with the Spectrogram software. The symptoms are quite noticeable by listening also. 73, Steve N6VL K2 #2289 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Checking K2 sensitivity...
I am the second owner of K2 #2289. I've built and added a number of options. But I wonder about its rx sensitivity. I often have to use the preamp on 30 and 20 meters to hear weaker signals. The same is not true of my 756 PRO 2, at least on the same signals while doing an A/B comparison. That said, I'd like to know the best way to re-check the rx sensitivity on my K2. I still prefer it to my PRO 2 for copying CW, especially with narrow filters kicked in. The PRO 2 has horrible ringing with narrow filters. Otherwise, it just seems like the PRO 2 has better ears. Some how I don't think that should be. Maybe my K2 needs tweaking. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Best CW Pitch???
OK, I know this is personal preference thing. But with the K2, it isn't easy to change CW pitch on the fly. While the sidetone frequency can be easily changed, CAL FIL needs to be redone. Many other rigs will allow you to select the CW pitch or offset on the fly. I chose 400 Hz for my pitch. Sometimes I wonder if the best pitch varies between rigs. I know it varies between bands. I can play with the K2 RIT value and get at least +/- 50 Hz or more of variation from my 400 Hz preference. Last night I readjusted the KAF2 pots and got the response more centered around 400 Hz. It had been centered a little lower. Last night I was working a CW station on 30 meters just in my noise level. Usually I have to listen a little lower in pitch, but this time it helped to listen a little higher. The band conditions seem to dictate the best pitch. That said, I wonder how to best choose a pitch. I've thought of increasing the pitch up to 420 or even 450 Hz. But I won't be able to return to 400 Hz without running CAL FIL again, not a fast process. I definitely don't want to go above 500 Hz. The 600 Hz default is very fatiguing to me and actually piercing. Again I know this is a personal thing. It really would be neat if the K2 firmware could be modified to accommodate several banks of filter settings for different needs, such as CW pitches. 73, Steve N6VL K2 #2289 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Thoughts about K2 freq shift FINE RIT...
I've really loved the K2 since getting one second hand back in July. I've added the KPA100, KSB2 and the K160RX options. But there is one really sore point with me. That is the small frequency shift when changing filters. It is not a big issue when using CW or SSB. I can live with that. But it is a real sore point with the digital modes. To be fair, I was aware of this before building the KSB2 option. I didn't except to get back into the digital modes again, and have mostly been on CW the past few months. I have other rigs for digital use, but the K2 receiver is really fantastic. I understand there is a FINE RIT feature that can correct this frequency shift. I have the RTTY mode filters set up as: FL1 OP1 FL2 1000 Hz FL3 500 Hz FL4 250 Hz These cover most of my digital needs, depending on which mode. The common fix for this problem is to use the tx frequency lock feature in most of the digital comm software. Can I assume that the tx and rx frequencies will match if I use the same filter for tx and rx? In my case, this would be the OP1 filter. I could tune to the other station's frequency in FL1 (OP1), before locking the tx frequency in the software. Once I lock the tx frequency, I should be free to choose a narrower filter for rx. Again, can I assume the tx and rx frequencies will be matched if I use the tx filter? Next I'd like to ask about FINE RIT. A reading of the manual and this reflector tells me there are a number of variables affecting FINE RIT. It has a finer frequency correction on the lower bands. And the shift amount could change even within the same band. Also the FINE RIT correction needed may change from filter to filter. How can I determine the correct FINE RIT value needed for each band / filter width combination? It would help if I had a stable frequency source for each band and frequency in question. The XG1 only works at 7.040 MHz, plus harmonics. 7.070 is a popular digital frequency. I don't know if the frequency shift will vary much on 40 meters when 30 kHz apart. The other bands are 80, 30, and 20 meters right now. My goal is too make up a little chart telling me what FINE RIT value to use with each band / filter width combination. It would still be a hassle, but I could live with it, if it corrects my shift when using narrower filters. The other digital gotcha with the K2/100 is the heat sink. I've been able to get a large 4 inch muffin fan on top of the KPA100 heat sink and easily run 50 watts without excessive heating. It also helps some to keep in the internal fan set to HI, but then I have to set it back to NOR when I am not transmitting digital signals. It even gets warm when running CW at full power, but not too bad. Thanks in advance for any suggestions or comments! 73, Steve N6VL K2/100 #2289 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 filter bandwidth versus real bandwidth...
I've set up my K2 with the following bandwidths for the RTTY mode: FL1OP1 FL21000 Hz FL3500 Hz FL4250 Hz I am listening to an Olivia signal (a digital mode) with a 500 Hz bandwidth. I would expect FL3 at 500 Hz to pass the whole signal. Instead I have to select FL2 at 1000 Hz bandwidth. Looking at the waterfall for the Olivia signal, I get about 750 Hz passed rather than 1000 Hz. If I want to pass a 500 Hz signal, what bandwidth should I select in the filter calibration? I guess the selected bandwidth isn't measured at 6 db down, or is it? 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Charging gel cells for my K2 with regulated PS???
Thanks for the replies about charging my 18 AH gel cell. I was a little impatient waiting on my 750 mA charger get the battery topped off. I left it on yesterday evening when I stepped out and came back 2 or 3 hours later. The charger's green light was on. I did some reading on gel cells, in addition to the replies. It seems that my power supply, an Astron RS-35A, wouldn't have charged the battery any faster anyway. My $30 charger from HRO will allow me to tickle charge the battery and prevent overcharging. But I think I'll check out the 1 A charger from AA Engineering. Anaheim is very local to me and their chargers have a good reputation in the ham community. One responder said it would take 24 hours for that charger to fully charge my battery. 750 mA / 18 A = 24. I guess that is where the 24 hours comes from. My charger is a Deltran Battery Tender Junior from HRO. HRO represented it as coming from powerwerx.com. Powerwerx has an larger model, 1.25 A. Its too bad HRO didn't have that model in stock. I do wonder about using the gel cell with my KPA100 option. I don't need to run 100 watts by any means. But 10 watts is a little too low for me. I wonder how the 18 AH gel cell, a Power Sonic, will work and last with the K2 at about 30 watts. I'd been tickled to death to have had 30 watts when my power was out. I don't know if the KPA100 looses efficiency at 30 watts versus 100 watts. Just curious. Again thanks for the comments! I still welcome more. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Test
My postings haven't been making it today! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Charging gel cells for my K2 with regulated PS???
I hope this isn't off topic. I bought an 18 AH gel cell for my K2 after the power went out last week. Today I bought a charger from HRO that charges up to 750 mA, which will take forever with an 18 AH battery. I've been told I can charge the battery with my regulated power supply if I am careful to not overcharge it. How do I know when it is close to fully charged? I plan to use the smaller charger to keep the battery trickle charged with the lower current charger. I simply want to get the battery charged faster. The battery is far from dead, but the voltage to my K2 drops significantly when the KPA100 option is used, even with a #12 power cord. I don't plan to use very high power, maybe 30 watts or so. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Lost speaker audio in K2
I just lost the speaker audio in my K2/100, but still have audio through the headphone jack. Switching to the regular cover and speaker doesn't help. Looking at the schematics, it looks like the headphone jack could be faulty. The speaker audio runs through the headphone jack and bypasses the speaker when a headphone is plugged in. It looks like the headphone isn't returning the audio back to the speaker line when the headphone plug is removed. Has anyone else encountered this problem? 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Saw K3 at show...
I saw the K3 at HAMCON in Torrance, CA yesterday. It is too bad I am in a savings mode right now, since my job is related to the sub-prime mortgage industry. Otherwise I'd be placing an order. I see the K2 now as filling the niche as a high performance rig you take with you. But the K3 is more of a home rig. That doesn't mean it can't be used at Field Day. But it is definitely a larger rig than the K2. I only wish Eric had a real antenna hooked. He was played a 10 minute loop of RF centered around 14060 kHz off a hard drive. That said, hopefully one day I will set my sights on the K3. It looks like a worthy successor to the K2. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100, data modes, and heat...
I just completed my first PSK31 QSO with the K2/100 at about 30 watts. The heat sink got very hot so I took the power down to 20 watts. The KPA100 option is rated at 40 watts with PSK31 and 25 watts with modes like MFSK16. The power was read with a meter that had a peak reading setting. The average power was even less. That is because PSK31 doesn't have a full 100% duty cycle. The heat sink did get very warm. I know I can put a computer muffin fan on the heat sink. I saw something on the N0SS web site about this. I don't know how hot is too hot. The right side panel on the K2 also got very warm. I don't want to ruin the KPA100 option, but I did stay well with the recommeded limits. 73, Steve N6VL K2 #2289 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] TAK PAK substitute
Mountian Ops, now out of business, used to make a pouch with neck strap for the K2. I still one for the FT-817 somewhere. Is there a pouch or carry bag that works well with the K2? 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] FS: KAF2 Audio filter
Tim, I already have the KAF2 and don't need it. But I wonder how you like the DSP versus KAF2. What modes did you use the K2's with? 73, Steve N6VL -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of NZ8J Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2007 8:11 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] FS: KAF2 Audio filter I had the DSP units in my K2's that I sold and have this left over. It is assembled and works fine. I will ship and insure it US Priority mail for $58 or would trade for a single band 40m qrp transceiver of some type or ? Thanks Tim NZ8J [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] BFO setting: bandpass versus frequency shift
I am starting to notice that the adjusting the BFO for a given bandpass response also shifts the frequency. Of course frequency shift is what a BFO setting is all about. I guess the K2 doesn't have an IF shift like most rigs. If I set the BFO for each filter width, to give the same frequency, what will happen to the bandpass response. I have these questions because of my new KSB2 option. But I also noticed the problem with the CW filters in the CW mode. I can live with a little bit of shift on CW and SSB. But I can't really live with it on the digital modes. I understand from reading the KSB2 docs, that tx is always from the OP1 filter, including the RTTY mode. So it is essential that I get BFO on the other filters to match OP1 as close as possible. That probably means the crystal filter characteristics will determine the center frequency of the bandpass. Is this correct? The real question I have is how to adjust the frequency shift accurately. I have a idea to float. I have the XG1 signal source for 7040 kHz at S9. I can use MixW to measure the beat audio frequency down to 0.1 Hz. I assume I can set the BFO for each filter to the same audio frequency as OP1. I understand I may not be able to get right on the same frequency due to the resolution of DACs. I can correct the shift between tx and rx with MixW. But the frequency shift might change from filter to filter. Right now I've set the filter widths in RTTY mode for 2500, 1000, 500, 250 Hz for starters. I set SSB for OP1, OP1, 2200, 1800 Hz. Do I have a handle on the issue, or am I missing something? 73, Steve N6VL K2 #2289 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 mike question...
I just finished the KSB2 option for my K2. I wired P1 for the ICOM mikes. I have a GM-4 Heil boom mike with an ICOM cable. I also have the HM-36 ICOM mike. I was able to get the GM-4 to work without the 10k resistor. The HM-36 requires the resistor, which I haven't hooked up yet. Can the Heil GM-4 work with the 10k hooked up from AF to 5V? If so it would make my setup a little easier. Another idea is to wire P1 for a Kenwood setup. I still have the Kenwood cable for my GM-4 sitting around somewhere. That way I could use the Heil mikes designed for the K2. Actually the Kenwood and Elecraft mikes are wire almost identically. The only difference I see between the two, is the resistor used for the Elecraft mikes. Since the Elecraft mikes are Heil mike, I wonder if the GM-4 with the Kenwood cable would work with the resistor included. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft at HAMCON in Torrance, CA???
I think someone on the phone at Elecraft, told me Elecraft is going to be at HAMCON in Torrance, CA next month. If so, will there be a stock of K2 accessories there? I am particularly interested in the K160RX and the K60XV. That could save me the trouble of having it shipped, since I live near the convention site. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] CW pitch changes slightly between filters...
I just noticed the pitch a received CW signal changes slightly. The pitch is the same for FL1 FL2, and the same for FL3 and FL4 though different than FL1 FL2. The pitch is about 10 Hz or so different. Is this normal? 73, Steve N6VL K2/100 #2289 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Normal DC voltage drop w/ KPA100?
OK, I've been the air with my K2, now a K2/100. What is the normal voltage when key down with max power? I have tried two different power supplies. I just got readings of 12.5 12.4 VDC. These readings are with the DISPLAY button pushed. Pardon me if the info is in the manual somewhere! 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 now K2/100
My K2 is now a K2/100. Thanks to all who helped me navigate through the obstacles. Fortunately there weren't too many. I didn't build my K2, though now wish I had. There are still things to finish with it, such as re-tweaking the SWR detection and the speaker. But these have been discussed on a different thread. I got on 40 meters CW last night on and got good reports with it between CA and OH. There is a definitely feeling of accomplishment putting something on the I built myself. Now I plan on putting more modules into the K2. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 option almost done...
Well after about a month, I almost have my KPA100 option finished for the K2. I didn't accurately time the hours, but I think it is in the 25 hour region. This is the first serious kit I've built in years and the most serious ever. I had only one mistake to correct. U7, the dual op amp, was reversed. Once that got replaced, the amp came to life. I have a couple of issues left, minor ones. 1. The power does seem to vary a little bit on key down, nothing major, but a few percent before the power level settles. The TUNE function indicates 1.5:1 SWR into a dummy load. Perhaps I need to go back and retweak the SWR setting. 2. The speaker sounds like the cone is bad. I ordered a bunch of parts from Elecraft, but the speaker slipped my mind. I will need to remove the shield if the speaker gets replaced. Does the adhesive comes loose easily? Thanks for all help from this reflector! 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 bias issues...
I have progressed through the KPA100 adjustments with NO issues until I got to the bias adjustments on pages 49 and 50. I am unable to get any current reading changes when adjusting R6. First of all, my current drain at 0.1 watts is about 500 mA rather than the 200 to 400 mA mentioned in the manual. When I go into TUNE mode and set the power to 11 watts, the current drops to about 600 mA and there is NO current change when adjusting R6. There are two errors that pop up on the LCD display. First it displays HI REFL and then PA HOT. I went back and double checked my TPA and SWR settings from the previous section. All is OK. I welcome any suggestions or hints at this point. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 bias issues...
Don, I found that I'd installed U7 backwards. U7 is at the heart of the bias control. I can't find a cross reference for LMC6482 at a couple of local parts stores. I don't know if removing it and reinstalling it will work. I am having problems removing and it may have been damaged. I am trying to find a cross reference on the interent and seeing if a couple of parts stores might have it. They don't have a reference for it. 73, Steve N6VL -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2007 3:06 PM To: Steve Kallal Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 bias issues... Steve, Rotate the KPA100 bias pot back to its full counterclockwise position, make certain you have a good dummy load on the KPA100, and then try the steps below: First, determine if the current draw at 0.1 watts is high in the base K2 or the KPA100. Disconnect the ribbon cable to the KPA100 and measure the current draw - expect 240ma to 360 ma - this will depend on how many options you have installed - low end if you have no options and high end if your K2 has a full house (especially the KDSP2). If you have considerably more current draw than that, re-look at the base K2 for the cause. If your current draw is within range, power off and install the ribbon cable - the KPA100 will add some to the current draw found in the above step - expect 50 to 100 ma more.. Now turn the power up to 11 watts or higher - the current should increase another 100 to 150 ma depending on the state of the fan. When all the above is within range, put the K2 into CW TEST - that is very important. Add 400 ma to whatever the current draw was in the above 11+ watt check - that is your desired final bias current setting. Now press TUNE - at first the current will not increase very much, but with rotation of the bias pot, the current should increase. Find the place where the current increases about 400 ma and stop for now - you are close. Go out of TUNE by tapping any button - do not power off or you will lose the CW TEST condition (that is why you received the HI REFL message). Enter TUNE and quickly check the current draw and exit TUNE. The current draw will climb after a half second or so, but the initial reading on your DMM may be too low because the gate timing on your DMM is not synchronized, so look at the reading for the second scan - in other words wait more than a tenth of a second and less than half a second to see the correct reading. If the reading is too low adjust the pot slightly clockwise, but if it is too high, adjust it a tiny bit in the counterclockwise direction. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Test KPA100 with one power supply???
I was wondering it possible to test the KPA100 option with one power supply, but with two separate power cables. I have a distribution box with Anderson Power Poles. So two power cables is easily possible. My power supply can handle 25 amps. I guess I could use two separate power supplies if absolutely necessary. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Sidetone with harmonics at 400 Hz...
I have a K2, serial #2289, that has a second harmonic in the sidetone. The sidetone is set for 400 Hz because I do much better with lower pitches. The sidetone at 400 Hz has a definite square wave sound to it. The problem certainly is not present at 600 Hz, and I don't even want to try 500 Hz. I'd go lower than 400 Hz if the K2 allowed it. I talked to Don Wilhelm about this and he seemed puzzled. There is a post off of the Elecraft web site about this at http://www.qsl.net/ve3mcf/elecraft_reflect/K2_Sinewave_Sidetone.txt. But that thread is dated Winter 2000. I would think the K2 has gone through enough evolutions to correct this. Perhaps not? Has anyone had this problem and corrected it? The sidetone is useable but annoying. It also makes zero beating a signal a lot harder. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Lower power output after master reset...
Hi, I managed to fix my K2 after an intermittent on the Control Board appeared. In the process I did a master reset hoping somehow that would fix my problem. Now that my K2 is operational again, I've lost some of my power output. It is almost certainly a calibration or setting issue. I didn't build this K2 nor any other. So I don't know my way around the rig. It also has the KAT2 option, which probably also lost some settings. My power used to peak at 15 watts on 40 meters. Now it is lucky to get 10 watts. Otherwise the K2 seems just fine. Can someone point me to right part of the manual to make the necessary adjustments. My K2 is serial number 2289. It has the mods for the conversion of Revision B and the 2.04p firmware. The KAT2 firmware is 1.09, at least that is the second # showing in the version display. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 working again...
Thanks for all the suggestions on getting my K2 back up again. I was modifying P4 on the K2 Control Board to prepare it for the KPA100. My K2 quit functioning in the process. It turned out that pin 1 on the U6 40 pin socket was defective. On inspection I noticed that pin 1 was missing one of the two contacts that squeeze together to hold the chip pin. All this time, pin was only connecting on one side. After five years of use, all it took was a handling the Control Board to cause a failure. It wasn't a routine handling of the board, but the removal of P4 pin in preparation for interfacing to the KPA100. That did stress the board a bit. I didn't build this K2 or any other, so it was a real learning experience troubleshooting the problem. Its been nearly 20 years since I've been a bench technician, but some of the instinct came back to me. Right now I am recalibrating the K2, since I did a master reset in a moment of frustration. Don Wilhelm is advising with me. Kudos to Don for his help and patience. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Need local K2 help in Southern Cal...
Hi, I need someone locally in Southern California who can help me with my K2. I made a slight mod to the Control Board per the KPA100 manual and now the MCU appears intermittent. I need someone who can put my K2 on their bench, with me present, and help me find the a probable loose connection or short. I can get the front panel to respond if I put a certain amount of pressure on the MCU chip. The problem started after I removed pin 4 from P4 per the KPA100 manual. I must have stressed the Control Board somehow. I've already touched up many of the solder joints with a hot iron. I am looking for a different set of eyes. I don't want to leave to K2, but take it with me when I leave. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Second call: K2 broken after KPA100 mod
Don, Where is my more complete reply: The problem appears to be related to something loose aroud the MCU chip on the Control Board. If I put a lot of pressure on the top of the MCU chip, the ELECrAFTt message progresses to the frequency readout. This is with the Control Panel fully mounted and the KAF2 board installed. The connector cable to the KAT2 and KIO2 are disconnected for now. There are still some strange things, but at least the unit responds to front panel input. The pressure I refer to is with my fingers pressing down vertically. Remember the Control Board is installed vertically. The pressure is along the top row of pins. I also can use the foam handle of a pair of pliers, in case any electrical connection is made from my fingers touching the MCU chip. So far I've remove the MCU chip, with my wrist grounded, and touched up all of the solder connections on the socket. I also touched up all of the solder connections on the pins on that connect to the RF board. Again my K2 is serial number 2289. It has the mods from the document titled: UPGRADING THE ELECRAFT K2 TO REVISION B. Also has mods from documents titled ELECRAFT K2 REVISION 2 FIRMWARE and Elecraft K2 Keying Modifications Instructions. Those documents are with the paper included with this K2. 73, Steve N6VL -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 11:00 AM To: Steve Kallal Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Second call: K2 broken after KPA100 mod Steve, There is no direct relationship between your symptoms and what you intended to accomplish. So this is something that inadvertently happened along the way. The first thing to do is inspect the control board visually - in most cases an unsoldered or poorly soldered connection is to blame for behavior like that. Move things around a bit to see if you can make it change from working to not working. Also check the soldering of the connectors at the front of the RF Board - they provide a path between the front panel and the control board. Be certain the microprocessor (Control Board U6) is properly seated in its socket and no pins are bent under the chip (you may have to remove it to check for bent under pins - use good anti-static measures if you remove it). If the problem does not reveal itself visually, the next step is to do DC voltage measurements on the control board and possibly the Front Panel board. Compare to the DC Voltage chart in the back of the manual. Since you purchased a used K2, the level may be important - please let us know the serial number and state of updating that it may have had. I am sorry I cannot provide a more concrete answer, but it does have nothing to do with the KPA100 installation at the point where you are now. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Second call: K2 broken after KPA100 mod
I was hoping someone would answer me on this one. The phone lines at Elecraft don't open until I am at work. I am about done with part 1 of the assembly of the KPA100 option. I opened the K2 and removed pin 4 from P4 on the control board per the instructions. Rather than connect the partially assembled KPA100 to the K2, I powered up the K2 first. Now the K2 doesn't initialize. Apparently my K2 is not completely broken. With the antenna hooked up, the receiver is definitely alive. It appears that the control board isn't functioning. The display stops ELECrAFt and doesn't go further. The tuning knob has no function. The S meter doesn't move. But sometimes signals are heard. I DON'T hear the 4 MHz clock in another receiver per the K2 troubleshooting section. I did the firmware reset hoping that might fix it. It didn't. I did have the CAL FIL BFO settings saved in a spreadsheet. But I didn't have any CAL PLL settings written down. Once the K2 is back, I'll have to learn that procedure since this is a used K2. One definite repeatable symptom, is that the power has to be toggled on TWICE, before anything is displayed on the LCD. Please I hope for some assistance here. It is probably a loose connection, but everything seems solid. I will be emailing Elecraft support also. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Proper K2 power cord?
I have been using a molded power cord with my recently acquired used K2. I am sure the wire is 20 or smaller meaning there is likely a voltage drop. I need to build up a power cable with larger gauge wire. Also I need to get a connector. Does anyone know the correct Radio Shack SKU for the connector? What gauge of wire should I use. This is for QRP version of the K2. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Got K2, many questions...
I just a got second hand K2 today and have some questions. For reference the SN is 2289 and it has the 2004 mods. 1. I need to know about the CAL FIL function. I prefer a CW pitch of 400 Hz. The previous owner had it set at 600 Hz. The manual states I might want to use CAL FIL to adjust the BFO settings for a new pitch. The problem I am having is that I can't get the filters to accept a 400 Hz pitch, even when ST P is set to 400. The exception is the 1.5 kHz filter. The 700 Hz filter sort of passes a 400 Hz tone. Since I didn't build the K2, I don't have the frequency counter test cable mentioned in the CAL FIL section, at least I don't think I do. 2. The K2 has the KAT2 internal ATU. I am getting HI CUR warning on an antenna that is already matched. The antenna is a ladder line fed delta loop through an old 275 watt Johnson Matchbox. I know the antenna is matched for the portion I am using. The coax is connected to the ANTENNA BNC instead of ANT1 or ANT2. I tried setting ATU to CALP or CALS. I simply want to bypass the ATU for home use. But I also want to use the internal SWR function to manually tune the Johnson Matchbox. I will try the ANT1 or ANT2 BNC connector. Perhaps that is what I should do. Reading the manual couldn't hurt either, hi. 3. My last question is about the adding KPA100 option. I wish to keep the KAT2 for portable operation. I know the KAT2 and KPA100 options are not compatible. Can I switch between them in a short amount of time? I have heard the top lid can be swapped on the fly to switch between the QRP and 100 watt modes. Is this an easy thing to do? I might want to use the KAT2 in the field and KPA100 at home. Do I have any takers on these questions? 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 coming next week, have questions...
Hi, I got on this list a few weeks ago and asked about K2s. I have a used one coming with a lot of options, but 100 watts NOT being one of them. It is CW only, which is fine, as I am about 95% CW these days. It is an older one. The SN is in the 22xx region, but has all the updates. I downloaded the manual: K2manRevC.pdf. Are there any other docs I should download? One of the first options would be the KPA100. But I wonder if there are other amplifier options I could use at home. Even 30 or 40 watts would make a big difference. I kind of want to keep the rig lower power for portable work. Full QSK is definitely important. I'll probably end up using the KPA100 anyway, especially if it separates easily. What is the typical build time for the KPA100? It already has the KAT1 internal antenna tuner. I don't know how that affects the KPA100 upgrade. Obviously, it has to be before the amplifier. I have heard the KDSP2 option is not needed. Of course opinions vary. My main concern is having enough audio to drive headphones. I have the Heil Quiet Phones and some cheap Koss UR/29s. I use the Heil with my Pro 2 and the Koss with my FlexRadio SDR-1000. The choice appears to be an impedance matching issue. The Koss's won't put out enough audio from the Pro 2. I have a moderate hearing loss, but don't use my hearing aids with headphones due to feed back. I posed this question a few weeks ago, but don't remember the responses. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 build time?
What is the typical build time of the KPA100 option? 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Headphone output levels on the K2?
Hello again! I have a requirement that my rigs have relatively high audio output wo/ distortion from the headphone jack. I have a moderate hearing loss, about 45 db down especially in the speech region. The audiologists calls that MODERATE. 60 db down is considered more serious. Wow! Even the FCC wants tx spurs down 40 db or so. I have been using a FlexRadio SDR-1000 rig mostly because of the great DSP. One of the advantages is the external Firewire sound card which is able to boost audio into the headphones. I even found a cheap set of KOSS UR29 headphones have more output than my Heil's. The headphone output on the PRO II causes the headphone audio to distort before its loud enough for me. But the simplicity of CW seems wasted on a lot of hardware hanging off a PC. I am a new CW op. Started last fall getting my code speed up after 31 years as a ham and 29 years on HF. Do about 15 wpm on a good day. A friend of mine thinks the K2 is a good rig for copying weak CW popping through the QRN. The SDR is the best I've found so far. It certainly puts my PRO II to shame on rx. I think the best thing about a kit like the K2 is that adding a small audio stage internally before the headphone jack doesn't ruin the rig. But I would hope that won't be necessary. Also I don't wear my hearing aids with headphones because of feeback. I went with behind the ear hearing aids. Maybe a heaphones with larger deeper cups would help. I welcome comments from those who are familiar with the headphone output level on the K2. I don't want to drag around some external mixer to listen to CW, hi hi. 73, Steve N6VL FISTS #12707 SKCC #2383 [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Looking for a K2 builder w/ short lead time...
Hi, I am seriously considering getting the K2. However I am that good with a soldering iron. Are there any builders out there who can start soon and are reasonably priced. I will start will the basic K2 CW only wo/ the amplifier. I might consider building it myself if there are any Elmers in or near Orange County, CA who could bail me out if I screw up. 73, Steve N6VL FISTS #12707 SKCC #2383 [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
