[Elecraft] Alternative battery for K2?
Hi everyone. Has anyone any experience or suggestions on replacing an aging internal K2 battery (the standard lead-acid type) with one of the newer, lighter and more energy-dense batteries? I know there were some safety concerns with lithium-based batteries early on, but now that they are are used in all sorts of electronic gadgets, wouldn't there be some that would have the right form factor and voltage to fit in for the existing K2 battery? -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Alternative-battery-for-K2-tp7606331.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Can I measure antenna impedance with K2?
Hi:I have a K2 QRP rig with a built-in ATU. Are there any suggestions on how I could use the K2 to estimate the input impedance of my antenna, or at least see if it is in resonance?Sure enough, I can simply make the ATU find its best match, but I would like to know if the antenna itself actually was close to resonance or even estimate its input impedance, as measured at the K2 antenna connector. Can I measure the antenna SWR and bypass the ATU while I am doing that, to get at least an idea?73 - Kristinn, TF3KX -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Can-I-measure-antenna-impedance-with-K2-tp7591798.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Can I measure antenna impedance with K2?
Thanks. Yes, I can determine the tuner settings (L/C-values, etc.) and from the network equations derive the impedance these settings match into. It would be neat if the K2 had enough CPU power and memory to carry these calculations out for me and just display the R+jX. Perhaps a good project for a small program or an app... 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Can-I-measure-antenna-impedance-with-K2-tp7591798p7591803.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] No SSB output - microphone or something else?
Hi: I am helping a friend, TF3SA, with his K3 (S/N 1113). He operates mostly CW, but has so far not been successful in getting any SSB signal out of the rig. We have used two microphones, the Kenwood MC-80 and an old handheld Dynamic 600 Ohm microphone that came originally from Kenwood with my TS-440S. That dynamic mike works fine with my K2, but not with the K3. Both microphones have the same effect - the PTT works as expected, but there seem to be no response to the audio when blowing or whistling into the mike. We only manage to get some output when the K3 compression level is set to maximum and the K3 mike level is at least half way up -and then we only get constant noise output which is independent of the audio entering the mike. Are there any suggestions? Are we just using the wrong mike types, and can we make any adjustments or wiring to accommodate these specific mikes? Or can we run some other tests to verify if it is actually the mike rather than something else? 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/No-SSB-output-microphone-or-something-else-tp6628626p6628626.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KX3 vs. K3 and other rigs?
I am watching the KX3 evolution with great interest. It appears to bear lots of resemblance to the K3, but it is not clear to me where these two will differ. Or, for that matter, how the KX3 will compare against some of the other rigs around today. Is there any place that shows, or can someone list up, the primary differences between, say, KX3 and K3? Not only in terms of technical specs (IMD, etc.), but also the internal structure (both with similar RF/DSP architecture?), features, etc.? 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX ..proud maker and owner of K2 #6425 -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-vs-K3-and-other-rigs-tp6443819p6443819.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 pics
Somewhat less protuding knobs, as well as a thinner dial knob would be more balanced with the rest of the unit, and would also be less vulnerable for transportation. 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-pics-tp6387458p6420852.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [OT] Suggested techniques for teaching CW?
Hi - I know this is very remotely related to Elecraft, but good advice is never in short supply in this group... Here in Iceland the requirement for knowledge of CW is no longer required for amateur HF licenses - a trend that we see in most countries nowadays. Still, I am interested in establishing CW courses for those new amateurs who may want to learn CW, and I am seeking advice from those of you who have experience. For example... - General suggestions for methods (Koch, etc.) - Software and other tools for class teaching and individual practice between classes - Teaching methodologies and approaches (frequency of classes, length, character groups,...) - Other activities to support and encourage (kit building, on-air sessions,..) 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Suggested-techniques-for-teaching-CW--tp2846635p2846635.html Sent from the [OT] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] ...Hot glue toroids to PCB??? No is the answer...
I don't understand where this urge for glueing toroids comes from. To have the toroids firmly in place, do the following: - Leave something like 1/2 of wire extending from each end of the inductor before mounting it. - Route these wires through the PCB holes, grab them at the other side and pull gently with pliers. - The toroid will be pulled to the PCB surface, and then bend the wire slightly where it exits the hole. - Now the toroid is snugly pulled towards the PCB surface, you can solder and clip off the excess wire. I sort of thought everyone did this, but I may be wrong. Anyhow, this is a way to keep everything in place without ever using a drop of glue. 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX WE0H wrote: Wow, quite a response. The consensus is do NOT glue the toroids and I won't. One guy said he has a radio that traveled 500k miles in a big truck and I surely know what that kind of environment is like. Says a lot for the radio's durability right there. Thank you all for the help. Mike WE0H __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/...Hot-glue-toroids-to-PCBtp2407937p2418025.html Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Nabble: new look and feel (if you read the Elecraft list on the web)
Hi Leigh: The new Nabble web interface is great! Having the K2 and its accessories, I have been feeling sort of lost among all the K3 messages on the Nabble page - most of which are not designated as K3 subjects up front. Scanning through the K2 section now I just found a few useful messages that I had previously missed. The new setup appears to be well thought out, easy to navigate through and definitely a big improvement. 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX /K2 #6425 Leigh L. Klotz Jr WA5ZNU wrote: If you read the Elecraft mailing list through the Nabble website, please read on. If you don't, but want to, please read on. If you don't, and don't want to, well, I guess don't read on. * What if I don't use Nabble? What effect does this change have on me? Absolutely none. * What is Nabble and why should I care? The good folks (and new management) at QTH.net support the Elecraft mailing list, but the web site they provide for read and searching the list from your browser is more utilitarian than featureful. For most hams (who read the Elecraft list in their own mail program) that's not an issue. But many people now prefer to read mailing lists in a forum or bulletin board style, and so there are other options. Of the options currently supported, the one most like a bulletin board is a web site called Nabble.com. You can visit this in your browser and begin reading the list, search, and even reply (if you're subscribed both at the QTH.net site and have a Nabble account.) http://n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-f365791.html If you forget this site, don't worry; a simple web search for elecraft nabble will turn it up. Now, on to the point of this message. * Nabble new Look and Feel I've changed the default view on Nabble. You'll now see a few different groups of messages: general Elecraft, K3, KX1, etc. Click on one of View More links to see more posts on that topic. Be aware, though, that almost all posts are still going to show up in the main forum, because that's where mesasges from everybody who just sends mail to the Elecraft list goes. * How does this work? Nabble has a concept of sub-forums, but in this case they're all backed by the same mailing list. I created K3, K2, KX1, etc. forums a while back and they seem to be working ok. All posts created on Nabble there go to the Elecraft mailman.qth.net list just fine, but they show up categorized on Nabble. Posts mailed in directly to QTH.net will still show up in the main forum, so you'll have to read both. But if you post messages to the list from your browser using the Nabble web site, please try posting from the appropriate sub-forum. If you put a subject on your post that begins [K3] or [K1] that will help the hams who read the list in their mail readers as well. * What if I don't like it? Just click on the link at the top of the Nabble page that says Topics View and it will go back the way it was, with one exception: the pinned topics (the one that always show on the first page) for the K3 have moved to the K3 sub-forum, so you'll have to look for those there. * What if I still don't like it? Send me mail. Please don't ask Elecraft about it, because they don't run the service and are busy sorting resistors, hi hi. Leigh/WA5ZNU K3#51 K2#3121 KX1#712 -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Nabble%3A-new-look-and-feel-%28if-you-read-the-Elecraft-list-on-the-web%29-tp2412105p2418110.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with XG1
I had a similar problem with my XG-2 right after assembly, on one of its three frequencies. Measuring voltages etc. did not give a clue, so I finally took a crystal from my junk box and connected its terminals in parallel with the crystal on the board (simply making the Xtal leads touch the points on the back side of the board). This started full scale oscillation, so I determined the XG-2 crystal in question simply was bad. May have been bad all along or become defective during my assembly. Elecraft sent me a replacement crystal - which I actually haven't put in yet, but this appeared to be the problem. 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX Pete Smith wrote: I have an XG-1 Receiver Test Oscillator which I must have accidentally zapped with RF somehow (I don't know when) because the output resistors R6-8 were fried. I replaced them, as well as R4 and R5, C4 and the transistor. The slide switch in the output tests ok. When I turn the XG-1 on, I can very faintly hear its signal, so it appears that the oscillator is working, but the output level is nowhere near what it should be. Voltage at the top of C3 is 1.23 volts. Anyone have any ideas where else I could look? Elecraft tech support was helpful but ultimately gave up. 73, Pete N4ZR the World Contest Station Database is back, and updated daily www.conteststations.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Need-Help-with-XG1-tp2233099p2247697.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Battery Charging System With out Mods?
Hi, Bruce: We can go to great lengths looking for technological perfection. There are all kinds of schemes to charge the internal battery of the K2 in optimal ways, as illustrated to the responses to your post. After going through the same thoughts you are going through I resorted back to the simple solution: Adjusted the output voltage of my 12V bench supply to 14.2V and kept my K2 hooked up to this in my shack. This ensures that the internal battery will be at a reasonably high voltage when I unplug the rig and take it along on a trip. The energy supply may not be maximized, and the lifetime of the battery may not end up being optimal either, but if the battery will serve me well in this way for some 3-5 years I won't complain. Perhaps I will try some more efficient / lighter battery technology at that time. So far this has worked perfectly and the internal gel cell battery has kept my K2 running for a total of 15-25 hours, on trips lasting weeks. 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX w1ujr wrote: Hello all, Is there a simple off the shelf model of battery charger which I can buy or build that will properly charge the K2 battery? I'd prefer not to drill a hole in the rear apron, so I'm looking for a commercial solution, ideally with an adjustable output. What have you found that works, or how did you solve your K2 battery dilemma? Thanks! 73 Bruce W1UJR www.w1ujr.net ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K2-Battery-Charging-System-With-out-Mods--tp1120435p1123220.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Where have all the K2s Gone?
I agree. My loaded QRP K2 is the only rig I am sure I will keep for the rest of my days (just turned 50 this week, so I'm looking forward to quite many more to come...). The reason it's the definite keeper: - All-in-one, just like the Swiss army knife: All bands and modes, int. battery, tuner, anything you wish. - Small and portable - Excellent performance - Self-built, and therefore I can feel confident modifying and fixing when needed. It has started to occur to me, however, how long the individual components for the K2 will be available in the years to come. Perhaps I should start stockpiling as they run out of production...? 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX Raymond METZGER wrote: K2 # 5,636 still live and used alternatively with my K3. Mainly, but not necessarily, for portable operation at other locations. Running two rigs is better and safer than only one. The K2 offers also the pleasure of building, modifying and tweaking well beyond what's the K3 offers ! Will never sell my K2 ! Raymond, F4FNT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Where-have-all-the-K2s-Gone--tp1085031p1085613.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 power setting for SSB QRP?
Thanks, everyone. I am still working on the presumption that 5W output for CW and 10W PEP output for SSB would be acceptable for my purposes of award gathering and contesting, as I already pointed out in my initial post. I justify this even further with the fact that my antennas are mediocre at best, typically random wires or a temporary dipole at best. But my question was specifically on the K2 and how it controls its output power. So, again, I presume the K2/KAT2 power regulating circuitry guarantees that: - if I set my power level at 5W my CW key-down output power will actually be 5W - if I set my power level at 10W my SSB PEP output power will actually be 10W (avg power somewhat less) ...or relatively close to this. Right? 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX hank k8dd wrote: - Original Message - From: David Yarnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2008 9:20 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 power setting for SSB QRP? Most QRP contests have a QRP limit of 5 watts for both CW and SSB. I know the ARRL does that. ARCI, and I think GQRP, had QRP on SSB limited to 10 watts, I think in an attempt to account for the disparity between the two modes QRP-ARCI defines QRP as: QRP operation for QRP-ARCI purposes is defined as operation with a transmitter power output of 5 watts or less (CW)(A1) and 10 watts PEP or less (SSB)(A3J). QRP-ARCI awards are based on these output levels. . I believe most other QRP organizations agree with this, although there are some groups / contests that specify that SSB QRP is 5 watts (or less) output on all modes. As far as I know, no one uses the well discussed (and sometimes over discussed!) use of ERP in QRP power levels. 72 73HankK8DD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K2-power-setting-for-SSB-QRP--tp678796p683296.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 power setting for SSB QRP?
I would like to establish the correct setting for transmitting proper QRP SSB signals from my K2. I have seen earlier discussions on the definition of QRP for SSB signals, where the majority seem to set it at 10W PEP (presumably close to 5W average power), while a few adhere strictly to the notion that no more than 5W should enter the antenna terminals at any time. At any rate, this brings me to the question: If I adjust the power level of my K2 to, say, 5W, using the power knob, will the rig then actually send out SSB at 5W PEP, 5W average, or something else? 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K2-power-setting-for-SSB-QRP--tp678796p678796.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Ham and Son Electrocuted
This is a very sad occurrence and our hearts go out to the griefing family and friends. It is a reminder to all of us that amateur radio has its very dangerous sides. High voltages in the shack, power lines, heavy and tall antenna structures and work at lethal heights. Even less visible risks lurk there, such as RF exposure, toxic solder fumes, etc. Let this terrible accident be a reminder to all of us not to get comfortable with dangerous work. The other day I was in a hurry and bypassed my safety line, not for the first time, while crawling out on the roof to fix a routine antenna situation. A wet spot or a slip of the foot would not be taken back. I'll rather be safe than sorry the next time. 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX Bruce Prior-2 wrote: Message: 1 Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2008 10:20:32 -0600 From: Bruce Rattray Subject: [qrp-canada] FW: [skcc] Ham and Son Electrocuted To: QRP-Canada Reflector- Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 *** WARNING!! *** -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Cliff Fox KU4GW Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 7:40 AM To: 3895_Group; NCXMS Group; W4ERT ARES RACES; SKCC Group Subject: [skcc] Ham and Son Electrocuted Ham and Son Electrocuted Filed under: Ham Radio by Bob Olsen at 10:21 am on Monday, July 14, 2008 A ham radio operator and his son were electrocuted Sunday while trying to put up an antenna in Kansas City, Kansas. Details are here. These deaths motivated Chuck Kraly, K?XM, to write this cautionary message. We lost another ham today, and it is a very sad event. The parties involved, were installing a Comet FIBERGLASS antenna, that came in contact with a single 7,620 volt power line. Now how do I know what the exact voltage is? I built and maintained the substation that fed this circuit. I spent 27 yrears as a substaion technician for the Board of Public Utilities. I am still in this field. So, I feel I have some experience in what I am passing along. In a nutshell, the location of the accident was a few blocks from the substation. The wires you see going thru the residential areas are AT MINUMUM 7,200 volts from each wire to ground, and between any two of them is 13,800 volts. This is nothing to play with at any time. I have seen a fault TOTALLY vaporize 1 copper buss (which is solid). Imagine what it can do to a human. Each wire is fed from what is called a 3 phase line. From there, it can be broken off and sent down a property line as a single wire. Those are called laterals Yes, you will see a device at the break out point, and this is a fuse. BUT the caution needs to be conveyed. These fuses are in the 60-100 amp range. This is at 7,200 volts. On top of that, anytime a tree falls across a line, or a pole gets hit, there is a circuit on the feeder at the substation that AUTOMATICALLY closes the feeder back in, and TRIES to restore the power to the area. Some of these reclosers can operate 2-5 times, depending on how they are set. Now from the substaion end, the protective device is set for the full fault capabilites of the line. In the case of BPU, this can be set at 600 AMPS, and multiples of that value. The protective devices are set for what is called a time or and instantaneous operation. Picture a fast blow fuse and a slow blow, and you will understand the difference in the settings. These setting are at multiple of the 600 amp value. So, if there is a direct short, then it will not trip until it reaches a value at, oh lets say, 8 times that value. So we are looking at 4800 amps. and this is at 7,200 volts and lower. So, it trips, then it energizes it AGAIN. The possiblity of survival is slim and none. Now remember how I said they were installing a FIBERGLASS antenna? Well guess what. It is metal inside. Yes, fiberglass does not radiate as we all know. Hence the metal. That is what caused the accident. They got too close to the line (remember your 'magnetic lines of flux' theory? If not, look it up on the web). There is a minimum approach area that MUST be followed. This changes for ALL voltages. This distance must NOT be broken. If it is a flashover will happen, and it is not pretty. Electricity will find the shortest path to ground. In this case it was a couple of men. Folks, this is nothing to take chances with. In my almost 30 yrs as a ham, and 27 yrs in the power utility field, I have seen way too many accidents. Stop, look and if it is close or SEEMS that way- DON'T. Find another place. High voltage lines are NOT forgiving. Your life depends on it. You always hear it is the amps not the volts well I can tell you when you get at these levels, who is going to argue what killed the person who had the accident. PLEASE ,PLEASE follow the warnings. ANYWHERE close is too close. Stay safe, and I hope we can enjoy many more years of hamming. James
[Elecraft] OT: Software measuring S/N and signal strength thru soundcard?
In comparing antennas it would be nice to be able to run signals from the RX to a soundcard, and do analysis of signal strengths and S/N. Numerical data would give more info than comparing by ear. Actually, the K2 with its two antenna inputs is an ideal rig to this kind of experiments. Any suggestions for such software? 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/OT%3A-Software-measuring-S-N-and-signal-strength-thru-soundcard--tp473971p473971.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Part ID Help?
Tim: The choke you already have is the right one. I came across the same problem, contacted Elecraft and they confirmed that the green body version of this choke has the orange stripes look more like brown. So, I went ahead with my green body choke and it works perfectly. 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX TimK2 wrote: Hi Folks, Since it's past closing time in California, I thought I'd throw this out to the group. I'm about to install L5, a 33 uH RF choke (ORG-ORG-BLK, page 68 of the K2 manual). The closest component I have has a green body and looks more like a BRN-BRN-BLK. I'm wondering if the orange stripes look brown because of the green body color, or do I have the wrong component? Any ideas? Tnx es 73, Tim KX3H ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/K2-Part-ID-Help--tp18229077p18247592.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: Re: [Elecraft] K2 - signal loss in band-pass filter
Well, I agree that the basic receiving performance of the rig may not be significantly affected, or even noticed at all. But in my case I am not able to set the range of the S-meter properly, which I attribute to the low 8V level. My S-meter can not be adjusted to turn all LEDs off when no signal is present, and I do not get the S-meter quite up to full scale when the RF gain is turned fully CCW. If I am correct, this is due to the low 8V and that would be an incentive to get that voltage fixed. 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX David Woolley (E.L) wrote: Are LB3SA wrote: But if you have a hard time getting the ALC voltage up to 3.8 volt according This voltage is related to AGC, not ALC. to the manual you can solder a 10K resistor across RP6 pins 3-4 on the My impression is that people worry too much about this. With all components exactly on value this voltage is only achievable with R1 at the end stop (I can't remember if it is just achievable or just not achievable). What really matters is whether or not you can get a sensible AGC threshold within the control range of R1, which you can only do once you have the whole receiver. control board (Gary from Elecraft suggested this for me). This works great and I now see 3.8V but it doesn't really make much of an audible difference. -- David Woolley The Elecraft list is a forum for the discussion of topics related to Elecraft products and more general topics related ham radio List Guidelines http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_list_guidelines.htm ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/K2---signal-loss-in-band-pass-filter-tp17294418p17682216.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 - signal loss in band-pass filter
Just out of curiosity... Where was that solder bridge on the MC1350? Was it already on the SMD assembly when you received it, or was it something you caused by your soldering? The reason I ask is that I had a problem with my SMD MC1350, never found out what caused it, and just replaced it. If there is something there to watch out for, it may help others... 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX Are LB3SA wrote: Thanks to both for info and assistance. You were right Don about the 'weirdness' when injecting signals by C7. It turns out that the sensitivity issue was caused by a tiny solder bridge on the SMD MC1350 (IF amp) which I found by injecting a signal @ IF freq. before and after the IF Amp. The receiver is now working very nice with an IMD of -136db. The filter/BFO set-up went without a hitch and RX sounds like a million bucks with absolutely no signs of ringing with tight filtering. Are - LB3SA KX1# 1864 K2# 6498 K3: Delivery late July Don Wilhelm wrote: Are, The 'wierd' symptoms you report could be normal depending on the output characteristics of your signal generator. The capacitors C7 and C8 in the 40 meter bandpass form a voltage divider that is intended to match the high impedance of the filter parallel tuned circuits down to a lower impedance level. If a signal is arbitrary injected at the top end of C7, there can (and likely will) be more voltage developed across the filter than if the same signal voltage is injected at the junction of C7 and C8 (a similar argument applies to the other bands). Put RFC7 and W6 back in place to give the proper termination for the filter. A valid comparison is to compare the signal at the junction of C7 and C8 with the signal at the junction of C4 and C5. That would give an indication of the loss through the bandpass filter. That comparison is more easily done in transmit than receive (the filter is bi-lateral). Compare the RF voltage at the junction of D6 and D7 with the RF voltage at W6 using a transmit power level of 1 to 2 watts. If the bandpass filter is not indicating a substantial loss, then you may have some other problem in the receive path. If your bandpass filter does show a substantial loss, try re-peaking it first, and if that does not produce adequate results, then look for an impedance mismatch at the filter terminations - check R36 and R5 first for proper values and good soldering. There are many other places other than the bandpass filter that can cause weak receive. If your K2 develops full output power on all bands, then the bandpass filter is likely not the problem area. 73, Don W3FPR -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/K2---signal-loss-in-band-pass-filter-tp17294418p17627941.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 - signal loss in band-pass filter
Interesting. In my case I never resolved if the MC1350 actually was bad. I soldered the entire assembly out of the circuit, but managed to find an original full size chip at a local store, put it in and it simply worked. So, the problem - whatever it really was - might have been the same as yours, and the SMD assembly might have worked if I had put it back into the rig the second time. At any rate, good that you are on track, and hope others may learn from this. My K2 (#6425) is working perfectly, aside from the fact that my 8V is low (about 7,56V), and as a result the S-meter can not be calibrated properly. I will ask Elecraft to send me a new regulator. 73 and good luck! - Kristinn, TF3KX Are LB3SA wrote: It was actually one of your earlier posts (thanks!) that prompted me to inject the IF signal before and after the IF Amp. At that point I had pulled out lot of hair and lost sleep over a low sensitivity K2. As to when the solder bridge got there... I'm not 100% certain that a bridge was the problem. But after I realized that the IF Amp was not amplifying I went over the solder points around the chip (I actually removed the chip and installed it again). The radio then started to work. It was actually a bit of a surprise since I never saw the problem - especially since I looked very closely at all the points through an amplifying glass many times before AND since all the voltages at MC1350 measured at specs while I had the problem. It was just the IF signal that wasn't amplifying leading me to at first think that the chip itself was defect. I only assume it was a solder bridge. And if that's the case it was probably made by me. Are - LB3SA TF3KX wrote: Just out of curiosity... Where was that solder bridge on the MC1350? Was it already on the SMD assembly when you received it, or was it something you caused by your soldering? The reason I ask is that I had a problem with my SMD MC1350, never found out what caused it, and just replaced it. If there is something there to watch out for, it may help others... 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/K2---signal-loss-in-band-pass-filter-tp17294418p17630518.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2, K3 cases now with side pockets
Great! Are there any photos available, showing the 1- and 2 pocket design? Or outer dimensions? My interest is a carrying case for the K2, with one or two pockets (for a small mike, key and bundle of antenna wire). 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX Ken Kopp-3 wrote: I've had several requests for pockets on the K2 and K3 cases and I'm pleased to tell you that they're now available. They're large enough to hold the Elecraft hand mic in one side and a key, power cord or other stuff in the other. The pockets can be added to each side of the case and have cover flaps secured by Velcro. The pocket dimensions are 9 high and 6 wide and have pleats for expansion. The cost is $15 each and yes, I can make cases with only one pocket. (:-)) Thank you for the bandwidth, and 73! Rose Kopp - N7HKW [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/K2%2C-K3-cases-now-with-side-pockets-tp17549934p17556647.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2: A small milestone!
Congratulations! This is an outstanding accomplishment - not only sticking with QRP, but also with modest wire antennas. A great example to the rest of us and some of the newcomers thinking that all is lost if you don't have at least 100W and a tribander. Now, do you give any insights on how this was achieved? Working contests, odd hours, simply lots of time on the air, using announcements of DXpeditions, clusters, studying propagation, etc.? 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX Mike K8CN wrote: Although this will come as no surprise to many readers of this forum, it is possible at the very trough of the sunspot cycle to persist and even prosper in QRP mode: K2/10, #5569, was placed in service on 29 August 2007, and has always been operated at 5 W or less. QRP DXCC achieved 22 May 2008 thanks to 5B/LZ2HM. Antennas used: 20 meter attic dipole; 135 foot doublet, ladder line fed, at 50 feet. Longest path: VK3XU, near Melbourne, at approximately 10,527 miles ( 2000 miles/watt; 40 meter grey line!) I offer this as encouragement to those who occasionally lament the dearth of sunspots and opt for QRO! Cheers, and a spot of bubbly to all, Mike, K8CN Durham, NH -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/K2%3A-A-small-milestone%21-tp17416782p17503003.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KSB2: Accidentally reversed RP2 - OK?
I was staying up a bit too late last night, assembling my KSB2, and accidentally installed the 2.7K resistor network RP2 reversed (pin1 is where pin 8 should be, etc.). Now, if RP2 simply consists of four equal and individual resistors (pins 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8) I would believe this does not matter. Furthermore, the symmetry of this part of the KSB2 circuit would also support this. I don't like taking up the soldering iron and desoldering pump to fix something that does not need messing with. So, it would be reassuring to hear if any one seconds my conclusion to leave RP2 as is... 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/KSB2%3A-Accidentally-reversed-RP2---OK--tp17242103p17242103.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2: Low 8V, and adjusting AGC and S-meter
Hi: My K2 #6425 was ordered in February and is now fully operational, with almost all measurements and checks within limits. The only issue is the output of the 8V regulator, which is at 7.56V (5.5% down from the nominal 8V). If I am right, this low voltage is the cause for... a) AGC threshold adjustment: U2 pin 5 voltage only goes up to 3.62V, not 3.80V; b) S-meter adjustment: Can never get S-meter LED below #2 or above #9 to turn on. I had to order some spare parts from Elecraft, and to be safe I asked them also to send me a tested replacement for the 8V regulator - which is on the way. My questions are... - Wouldn't the low 8V level be the cause of the above symptoms (a) and (b)? - Any reason I should or should not replace that 8V regulator, anyway? 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/K2%3A-Low-8V%2C-and-adjusting-AGC-and-S-meter-tp17179721p17179721.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2: What do you have in your portable/travel kit?
Summer is around the corner (finally here, up at the arctic circle). Those of you organized enough to have the K2 ready to be taken on the road or on the trail on a short notice, what do you have in that travel kit, aside from the K2 itself? CW-key, mike, headphones, log book, pre-cut antenna wire, telescoping pole,...? 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/K2%3A-What-do-you-have-in-your-portable-travel-kit--tp17140215p17140215.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT - Looking for a code buddy
Congratulations on deciding to learn CW!! Just a few suggestions... Make sure you learn the code the proper way, that will reward you in the long run. That is, learn each character as a complete sound (A=di-dah, etc.), avoid visualizing code as written dot and dash symbols. Also, learn each character the Farnsworth way, i.e. learn the entire sound of each character at a fairly high speed (say, 20 WPM) although the overall character rate may be much lower and you have longer silence gaps between characters. You won't make much progress practicing once a week. Try to stick with it every evening for a while, if possible, and this will help you get over the hurdle. Finally, don't be shy to start making fool of yourself on the air in simple and slow QSO's. We've all been there and we all bear with it when we hear new CW ops taking their first steps. If worse comes to worse you can always pull the plug or sweep the dial and disappear to another frequency... :-) 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX J. Heide wrote: I have decided it is time to learn morse code! I have been using the computer for practice, both sending and receiving. The K3 in test mode makes a great practice oscillator. I made my first, very slow, CW contact today on 20 meters to a very patient ham in Texas. It was probably the most nervous I have ever been on ham radio. I would like very much to have a kind, patient, but honest (brutally so, if necessary) local ham to work with me on the air a little while each week. Please contact me off list to set something up if you are willing to assist me in my learning. Thanks and 73 Josh K6ZRX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/OT---Looking-for-a-%22code-buddy%22-tp17096080p17116070.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Portable CW paddles for K2?
My K2 #6425 is now up and running, and I need good, light/small portable iambic paddles for the upcoming summer trips. Are there any good recommendations? Candidates I have been looking at include: - Palm Mini Paddles (http://www.morsex.com/palm) - Paddlette PK1 (http://www.paddlette.com/pkproduct.htm) - Paddlette BP (http://www.paddlette.com/bpproduct.htm) Does anyone have experience, or even comparison on these or others that would be suitable for portable operation? My preference for feel is that the I prefer harder/metallic touch when making contact over softer touch, that I have found with some paddles. 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/Portable-CW-paddles-for-K2--tp16894191p16894191.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Import duties on amateur radio items
The import duty is not the problem, but the VAT (somewhat similar to the US sales tax), which is exceedingly high in many European countries. I wonder if anyone tops the Icelandic VAT, 24.5%, which is added on the total package value: Content price + shipping + insurance. Additionally, I may be charged for the paperwork ($10-20), and to top it all they may occasionally request a permit from the Post and Telegraph Authorities for radio components. This is what I had to go through when ordering my K2 a couple of months ago. Last week I received a notice from the customs, which had in its custody an envelope with a transistor and five ceramic capacitors from Elecraft, marked with the value of $1. I managed to convince the customs that these were replacement parts and I had already paid for the original kit earlier, but I was lucky this time. 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX Ken Kopp-3 wrote: I've always written Amateur (Ham) radio item on the customs form. Never had an item questioned. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/-OT--Importing-low-cost-items-to-Europe-tp16550503p16569684.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Import duties on amateur radio items
Hi, Dave - thanks for the compliments on our country. Hope you will be able to make it for a visit some other time... You are right in that our taxes (the VAT in this case) are tough and they are taken as far as they can. But to be fair, I believe the system is also reasonable to some extent, in that broken things, things that need to be returned or things that are sent as replacements, will only bear the VAT to the extent of their value. I have not had much experience with broken/returned equipment (fortunately), but I believe that if an item arrives non-functional and needs to be returned I will get the VAT refunded, or the VAT will be retained by the customs and I will then not pay the VAT again on the replacement when it arrives. In the case of the transistor and missing capacitor from Elecraft I could convince them up front that this was simply a part of the original K2 purchase and had been missing/defect there, and thus I did not have to make any additional payments. But my point is that a small envelope that has a sticker with $1 designation for the content would not automatically be sent to my home address. Instead it was about to go through the routine process with all its paperwork and expenses - in other words, there is no minimum here below which small shipments are simply exempt. Well - I guess this is getting a bit off tangent for the Elecraft reflector... 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX T. David Yarnes wrote: - Original Message - From: TF3KX [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 11:12 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Import duties on amateur radio items The import duty is not the problem, but the VAT (somewhat similar to the US sales tax), which is exceedingly high in many European countries. I wonder if anyone tops the Icelandic VAT, 24.5%, which is added on the total package value: Content price + shipping + insurance. Additionally, I may be charged for the paperwork ($10-20), and to top it all they may occasionally request a permit from the Post and Telegraph Authorities for radio components. This is what I had to go through when ordering my K2 a couple of months ago. Kristinn, Oh! That's nasty! And they charge VAT on your shipping and insurance too! Very punitive I would say. I guess the U.K. does that too. I can sort of understand including shipping, as it is a cost of acquisiton. Insurance, though, seems like a bit of a stretch. But both seem inequitable if you consider the (fortunate) person who can carry the product in, and avoid the VAT charge for shipping and insurance. On the other hand, taxes are rarely equitable! This raises a question in my mind for you VAT payers. If you pay the VAT, and then discover that your item has been more or less destroyed in shipping, do you get any refund on the VAT? What happens on the replacement item, assuming you get one? Perhaps your comment about the replacement part suggests you wouldn't pay the VAT twice. I know Iceland is expensive, and the economy is fragile to some extent, but I didn't realize it was so harsh on its citizens who are forced to import many things, or go without. However, I know it's a beautiful place with a fascinating history. We did try to go there a few years ago. Unfortunately, our cruise ship ran into a hurricane. We apparently got within about 150 miles of Reykjavik, and the captain had to give up. The props on the ship came out of the water twice! So, missed the chance to make a small contribution to the economy there. Very disappointing. Dave W7AQK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/-OT--Importing-low-cost-items-to-Europe-tp16550503p16576070.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] k2 test rx v.poor
Hello, Chris: I have seen occasional references to low sensitivity of the K2 during construction, and the reasons may vary. During the ongoing construction of my own K2 (#6425) I had similar symptoms as you have, and finally found out that U12 was bad. I started a thread on this on 17-March, and you may check out if the symptoms of your unit, and the measurements, are the same as I had. Incidentally, I received all kinds of suggestions to cure the problem, except the correct one - replacing U12. So, I wonder how prone these chips are to failing... If you come to the point of removing U12, it may not be straightforward. I had been given the advice of cutting the chip leads, and then solder each foot individually out of the board. In my case this did not work out successfully, so finally I simply desoldered each pin using a vacuum pump as far as I could. When all of the pins were reasonably solder free I used long nose pliers to loosen each foot in its hole (from the board bottom side) while keeping the remaining solder molten with my soldering iron. This way I was able to loosen up all eight feet in the mounting holes and then pull the chip out of its place. 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX http://radio.tf3kx.googlepages.com Chris-584 wrote: hi im at the stage with k2 sno 6436 where i have done alignment test part 2 pll,vco,bfo, all tested ok with good ranges. vfo linearization ok, but next to no audio noise in my headphones on recive (audio side tone good and strong on test) if i send some v,low rf from my old icom on 40m i can hear it but verry week.rf pre amp makes it a little better .att kills it. if i have some low rf at 5.915mhz on a wire and put it neer u11 or u12 i can hear the signal verry strong. neer to q22 its week agc, fast/slow/off has no effect, could this be down to u4 on control board its out put is 7.55v i am waiting for a new one from elecraft my last 3 k2's worked like a dream i would be happy to recive any help thanks chris g0wfh ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/k2-test-rx-v.poor-tp16360355p16366242.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 #6425 low/no sensitivity - suggestions?
PROBLEM SOLVED. I found a full size MC1350 at a local electronics store (the last one they had, back in old storage...). Replaced it for the modified SMD-version MC1350 I had received from Elecraft - and this fixed my sensitivity problem! I still don't feel comfortable with the low 8V level, but will leave it as is for now and probably get a replacement regulator when I'm done building the K2. Hope others will learn from this. 73 - Kristinn TF3KX wrote: Hi - I am in the process of constructing my K2 and have two problems that may or may not be related. Problem 1: Low, almost nonexistent RX sensitivity during Alignment II. I can manage to copy a carrier from my MFJ antenna analyzer and I have used this to verify that IF and input circuits are peaked. Injecting this signal into the antenna terminal I can also verify that PRE and ATT work as expected, as well as the crystal different filter bandwidths. Using an IF carrier from the MFJ I have poked a low level signal into various parts of the IF chain. An interesting thing is that I hear this signal much weaker in the K2 audio when I touch it to the INPUT of IF-amp U12 (MC1350) than to its OUTPUT. In other words, that IF amp does not amplify, but rather attenuate the injected signal. I have re-checked all connections around U12, re-flowed the solder, checked T7 and removed the overload diodes D40 and D41 - with no improvement. Problem 2: Low 8V regulator output, 7.56V. As a result I could only adjust the U2 pin 5 voltage to 3.60V using R1, in Alignment I. Probing the voltages derived from the 8V supply, they are of course 5-10% lower than expected. All DC voltages on U12 are consequently a little low, but otherwise not abnormal. I plan to get a local replacement for the 8V regulator, just in case. But does anyone have comments on the low sensitivity? Would the low 8V level be a possible cause for this? 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/K2--6425-low-no-sensitivity---suggestions--tp16086168p16136460.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 #6425 low/no sensitivity - suggestions?
Well, I took my lack-of-sensitivity analysis to the next stage and performed the Signal Tracing checks, as described in the Elecraft K2 Manual. Injected the 0,14Vrms into the antenna connector when appropriate, and kept the overload diodes (D40,D41) disconnected. In short, the DC voltages are a little low but probably close enough to normal, except U12 pin 5 (AGC) which measured 3.5V rather than 5.0V. All RF voltages appeared reasonably close to the K2 suggestions, up to and including U12 pin 4 (U12 input). The pin 4 voltage was 2.0V rather than the suggested 0.4-0.8V. However, the output signals from U12 seem to be nonexistent: U12p8 is 0V at all times, irrespective of the signal level injected into the antenna terminal. Subsequent signals are zero, as well (U11 input through pin1, etc.). Again, any suggestion on a plausible cause - a failed component or bad soldering? Has anyone run into this before, and have suggestions to try out? 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX TF3KX wrote: Hi - I am in the process of constructing my K2 and have two problems that may or may not be related. Problem 1: Low, almost nonexistent RX sensitivity during Alignment II. I can manage to copy a carrier from my MFJ antenna analyzer and I have used this to verify that IF and input circuits are peaked. Injecting this signal into the antenna terminal I can also verify that PRE and ATT work as expected, as well as the crystal different filter bandwidths. Using an IF carrier from the MFJ I have poked a low level signal into various parts of the IF chain. An interesting thing is that I hear this signal much weaker in the K2 audio when I touch it to the INPUT of IF-amp U12 (MC1350) than to its OUTPUT. In other words, that IF amp does not amplify, but rather attenuate the injected signal. I have re-checked all connections around U12, re-flowed the solder, checked T7 and removed the overload diodes D40 and D41 - with no improvement. Problem 2: Low 8V regulator output, 7.56V. As a result I could only adjust the U2 pin 5 voltage to 3.60V using R1, in Alignment I. Probing the voltages derived from the 8V supply, they are of course 5-10% lower than expected. All DC voltages on U12 are consequently a little low, but otherwise not abnormal. I plan to get a local replacement for the 8V regulator, just in case. But does anyone have comments on the low sensitivity? Would the low 8V level be a possible cause for this? 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/K2--6425-low-no-sensitivity---suggestions--tp16086168p16113915.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 #6425 low/no sensitivity - suggestions?
Hi - I am in the process of constructing my K2 and have two problems that may or may not be related. Problem 1: Low, almost nonexistent RX sensitivity during Alignment II. I can manage to copy a carrier from my MFJ antenna analyzer and I have used this to verify that IF and input circuits are peaked. Injecting this signal into the antenna terminal I can also verify that PRE and ATT work as expected, as well as the crystal different filter bandwidths. Using an IF carrier from the MFJ I have poked a low level signal into various parts of the IF chain. An interesting thing is that I hear this signal much weaker in the K2 audio when I touch it to the INPUT of IF-amp U12 (MC1350) than to its OUTPUT. In other words, that IF amp does not amplify, but rather attenuate the injected signal. I have re-checked all connections around U12, re-flowed the solder, checked T7 and removed the overload diodes D40 and D41 - with no improvement. Problem 2: Low 8V regulator output, 7.56V. As a result I could only adjust the U2 pin 5 voltage to 3.60V using R1, in Alignment I. Probing the voltages derived from the 8V supply, they are of course 5-10% lower than expected. All DC voltages on U12 are consequently a little low, but otherwise not abnormal. I plan to get a local replacement for the 8V regulator, just in case. But does anyone have comments on the low sensitivity? Would the low 8V level be a possible cause for this? 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/K2--6425-low-no-sensitivity---suggestions--tp16086168p16086168.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Most significant K3 advantages?
Now that the K3's are getting on the air in numbers, we are seeing lots of praise and fine reviews. It would be interesting to hear from individual K3 users what they see as the most significant performance issues or features of this rig, as compared to other rigs they have owned. Perhaps something like the top 3 (or whatever number) advantages / features. This would help identifying where this rig really shines. 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/Most-significant-K3-advantages--tp15177203p15177203.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 as an antenna analyzer?
While I have not placed an order for a K3 yet, I read with interest about the features and experiences new users are having with this rig. I have an idea for a new feature, for Eric, Wayne and the others to think about. Now that the K3 can read and display the LC settings for the internal autotuner, wouldn't it be neat to be able to calculate the corresponding antenna impedance at the given frequency (Z = R +jX)? Another, related feature, would be an indicator that would show if the antenna impedance at a given antenna connector and a given frequency is substantially different from last time. Perhaps a just a brief message like New ant Z. This would be useful to determine quickly if something has changed in the antenna system (bad connection, water in the coax, etc.). When using an autotuner one may miss this and continue as long as the tuner fixes the mismatch. Of course we may debate what is a substantially different Z, but I wonder what others think of the idea... 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/K3-as-an-antenna-analyzer--tp14976948p14976948.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
