Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Tom Norris NB5Q]

I am reviewing Jim's (K9YC) slides and have gotten to the DC Power Supply
(forget the slide #s) . I currently have a Alinco DM-330MV which supplies
my needs. However, after looking internally and studying the schematics,
there is no way to isolate circuit return (negative) from the chassis case
ground. Unless I had some insulated, plastic grommet type washers that
would hold/isolate the 6 mounting screw heads above (and the threads thru
the PCB holes) the circuit return PCB Trace that physically & electrically
attach the PCB to the chassis. There is an internal  jumper connecting the
DC Neg connector to the chassis but without isolating the circuit board
return traces from the chassis I'm spinning my wheels. If I read Jim's
comments right I just do his slide steps 1 & 2 and accept the chassis
ground on the DC negative connector?
Thanks for any experienced advice.
Tom,
NB5Q

On Fri, Apr 24, 2020, 10:08 Edward R Cole  wrote:

> Interesting statement.  How did you determine this?
>
> I brought home from work my professional service monitor and checked
> my K3 (SN-4340) s-meter.  Except from S0-S1 all other steps were
> exactly 6-dB.  S9 = -73 dBm as advertised.  I didn't bother much
> measuring above S9 so cannot comment on linearity in that region.
>
> I also measured both K3 and KX3 preamps on ON/OFF on 50 & 28 MHz:
> http://www.kl7uw.com/HF.htm
>
> Note K3 sensitivity using -73 dBm on 50-MHz with internal preamp off
> was S8 and S9+5 with internal preamp on.  This was using my XG3 as
> signal source so it might be slightly inaccurate (+/- 1 dB).  I
> checked the XG3 with my mw power meter for accurate output at 0
> dBm.  Subsequent to these measurements Elecraft came out with the PR6
> to help K3 sensitivity on 10m & 6m and I have not checked whether
> that effects s-meter readings (probably).
>
> You might note that I tested 50-MHz sensitivity using an ARR Gasfet
> preamp that has 24-dB gain.  It raises baseline noise due to the gain
> but I use it for 6m eme.  Slightly better than the PR6, but I use
> just the PR6 for non-eme use.  Built-in bypass connectors on the PR6
> make using the ARR easy to switch in/out.
>
> 73, Ed - KL7UW
>
> Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 07:48:58 -0400
> From: John Stengrevics 
> To: Morgan Bailey 
> Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K4 S-meter characteristics
> Message-ID: <7373a874-0e11-493c-b404-4315ef3af...@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=utf-8
>
> Agree completely.  I find all S meters to be totally inaccurate and
> next to useless, including my K3S?.
>
>
> 73, Ed - KL7UW
>http://www.kl7uw.com
> Dubus-NA Business mail:
>dubus...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Edward R Cole]

Interesting statement.  How did you determine this?

I brought home from work my professional service monitor and checked 
my K3 (SN-4340) s-meter.  Except from S0-S1 all other steps were 
exactly 6-dB.  S9 = -73 dBm as advertised.  I didn't bother much 
measuring above S9 so cannot comment on linearity in that region.


I also measured both K3 and KX3 preamps on ON/OFF on 50 & 28 MHz:
http://www.kl7uw.com/HF.htm

Note K3 sensitivity using -73 dBm on 50-MHz with internal preamp off 
was S8 and S9+5 with internal preamp on.  This was using my XG3 as 
signal source so it might be slightly inaccurate (+/- 1 dB).  I 
checked the XG3 with my mw power meter for accurate output at 0 
dBm.  Subsequent to these measurements Elecraft came out with the PR6 
to help K3 sensitivity on 10m & 6m and I have not checked whether 
that effects s-meter readings (probably).


You might note that I tested 50-MHz sensitivity using an ARR Gasfet 
preamp that has 24-dB gain.  It raises baseline noise due to the gain 
but I use it for 6m eme.  Slightly better than the PR6, but I use 
just the PR6 for non-eme use.  Built-in bypass connectors on the PR6 
make using the ARR easy to switch in/out.


73, Ed - KL7UW

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 07:48:58 -0400
From: John Stengrevics 
To: Morgan Bailey 
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K4 S-meter characteristics
Message-ID: <7373a874-0e11-493c-b404-4315ef3af...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=utf-8

Agree completely.  I find all S meters to be totally inaccurate and 
next to useless, including my K3S?.



73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[John Stengrevics]

My tower grounds are my house grounds.  All hardline is separately grounded 
though individual rods and tied to the house ground.  My transceiver is tied to 
the house ground.

I seriously doubt tying other equipment to that ground will reduce noise levels 
at all, not to speak of the difficulty of trying to tie my laptop to same.  I 
operate primarily 6 meters.

To confirm this, I have recently used a portable spectrum analyzer with a near 
field antenna to look for noise sources in the house.  Not only does my 
equipment produce no noise, nothing else in the house does either.

John
WA1EAZ

> On Apr 24, 2020, at 2:18 AM, Rick Bates, NK7I  wrote:
> 
> And in the meantime, lightning protection helps to reduce the noise and risks 
> of 'everyday' static noise sources like wind, snow, blowing dust and even 
> rain static.  HELPS, not removes.
> 
> Having (last fall) just installed a basic dissipation system, the difference 
> can be quite startling and can allow one to hear a LOT better.  My noise 
> floor also dropped from 10-35 dB with an average of 20 dB the moment I tied 
> it into the existing house safety grounds.  And that was not only increased 
> safety but was cheaper than most low band reception arrays (which I'll add as 
> well). 'New' DX; SCORE!
> 
> Just as any other station feature, one can continue to enhance or upgrade 
> lightning protection and bonding over time until there is less return than 
> cost expended.
> 
> One more often forgotten note:  ALL wiring coming into a building, must be 
> bonded to the common safety ground; satellite dishes, telephone/DSL wires, 
> cable TV... ALL of them or lightning will 'find a way' to ruin your day.
> 
> Rick NK7I
> 
> 
> On 4/23/2020 10:44 PM, Vic Rosenthal wrote:
>> Serious lightning protection is something else, and can be very expensive. 
>> But although bonding the equipment won’t protect you against direct 
>> lightning strikes, it does help to keep everything at the same potential and 
>> reduce the possibility of damage from less violent static discharges.
>> 
>> Victor 4X6GP
>>  
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

And in the meantime, lightning protection helps to reduce the noise and 
risks of 'everyday' static noise sources like wind, snow, blowing dust 
and even rain static.  HELPS, not removes.


Having (last fall) just installed a basic dissipation system, the 
difference can be quite startling and can allow one to hear a LOT 
better.  My noise floor also dropped from 10-35 dB with an average of 20 
dB the moment I tied it into the existing house safety grounds.  And 
that was not only increased safety but was cheaper than most low band 
reception arrays (which I'll add as well). 'New' DX; SCORE!


Just as any other station feature, one can continue to enhance or 
upgrade lightning protection and bonding over time until there is less 
return than cost expended.


One more often forgotten note:  ALL wiring coming into a building, must 
be bonded to the common safety ground; satellite dishes, telephone/DSL 
wires, cable TV... ALL of them or lightning will 'find a way' to ruin 
your day.


Rick NK7I


On 4/23/2020 10:44 PM, Vic Rosenthal wrote:

Serious lightning protection is something else, and can be very expensive. But 
although bonding the equipment won’t protect you against direct lightning 
strikes, it does help to keep everything at the same potential and reduce the 
possibility of damage from less violent static discharges.

Victor 4X6GP
  

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Vic Rosenthal]

The problems of hum and RF pickup are reduced by simply connecting all the 
equipment chassis together with low inductance conductors. It’s a safety 
feature as well, providing a backup to the power cables’ ground conductor, and 
ensuring that disconnecting a coax jumper won’t suddenly put you in the path of 
an unexpected current. That doesn’t cost thousands and is at most a few hours 
of work.

Serious lightning protection is something else, and can be very expensive. But 
although bonding the equipment won’t protect you against direct lightning 
strikes, it does help to keep everything at the same potential and reduce the 
possibility of damage from less violent static discharges.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 24 Apr 2020, at 3:19, Randy Lake  wrote:
> 
> Ok. I am sure I will get the wrath of God for going in this direction but
> here we go. I was licensed in 91 and have put together 2 average so contest
> stations with no grounds. None what so ever except power grounds. I have a
> bunch of equipment, not intentionally interconnected, that has had no issue
> in all that time. If I had seen something that led me to fix an issue I
> certainly would have. Safety ? Maybe. I am just not sure that the thousands
> of dollars that could be put into this type of grounding is necessary, in
> my part of the world.
> So, no grounds on lugs of any equipment, no grounds on tower (100') no
> grounding of coax. Aside lightning strikes, which I have had and not issue,
> what can I gain from spending the $$$ ?
> If someone can convince me I will consider.
> 
> Randy N1KWF
> 
>> On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 8:38 AM Randy Farmer  wrote:
>> 
>> I'm currently in the process of wiring up my new station and I happen to
>> be working on the equipment bonding phase for my pair of K3s SO2R
>> station. I'm doing my best to get decent connectivity between the
>> station components, but can't really figure out how to terminate large
>> (AWG 10) wire to the teeny 6-32 ground screws on the back of the K3,
>> especially since something like six bond wires need to be attached to
>> the transceivers. There appear to be no available ring terminals that
>> will fit these small screws; the smallest I can find are for #10 studs.
>> Even by using a threaded standoff installed in the K3 ground nut and a
>> longer screw to stand the rings off, stacking a bunch of these huge
>> terminals is extremely difficult. Providing some means of reasonably
>> quick disconnect for servicing purposes is equally difficult. Exactly
>> how can I go about connecting big wires to little ground posts?
>> 
>> 73...
>> Randy, W8FN
>> 
>>> On 4/20/2020 10:22 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
>>> On 4/20/2020 6:08 PM, Tom Norris NB5Q wrote:
 I'm asking what method and
 attachment point, to each piece of equipment, you experienced K-Line
 owners
 use to bond the K3s, P3, SP3, etc. and then on to the station ground.
>>> 
>>> I use wires soldered to screw lugs, making sure that the attachment
>>> point is not insulated from the chassis by paint. Some of the
>>> equipment has a dedicated grounding screw. Shells of DB connectors
>>> SHOULD be bonded to the equipment chassis, but not always -- some mfrs
>>> screw up and fail to do that.
>>> 
>>> Some of my equipment goes out in the field from time to time, so I use
>>> single circuit Power Pole connectors to make that easy. I'll use 2-6"
>>> between the lug and the PowerPole, then make a loop soldered to a
>>> PowerPoles that connect to each piece of gear in the string (so each
>>> connector has two wires). There are lots of suitable variations on
>>> this, depending on how the shack is laid out.
>>> 
>>> These are the slides for my talks on station power, grounding, and
>>> bonding. http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf
>>> 
>>> 73, Jim K9YC
>>> __
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>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>>> Message delivered to w...@windstream.net
>> 
>> __
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> 
> 
> -- 
> Randy Lake N1KWF
> 73 Gunn Rd.
> Keene,NH
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Bill Frantz]

I changed the ring terminals on my grounding system to spade 
lugs for ease of removal.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 4/23/20 at 10:27 AM, n...@comcast.net (N4ZR) wrote:

I think the answer lies in the ground bus.  I used a 3/4" 
copper water pipe along the back edge of my desk, with a short 
pigtail of #2 wire to the K3.  I used a yellow-jacketed Home 
Depot ring terminal on both ends of the #2, and metal-tapping 
screws to connect to the bus.

-
Bill Frantz| When it comes to the world | Periwinkle
(408)348-7900  | around us, is there any choice | 150 
Rivermead Rd #235
www.pwpconsult.com | but to explore? - Lisa Randall | 
Peterborough, NH 03458


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Randy Lake]

Oh yes, I have a K3/P3

Randy N1KWF

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 8:53 AM Dave Cole  wrote:

> Hi Randy,
>
> I rebuilt my shack six years ago, and documented a bit of that.  One
> part was connecting grounds to the back of the rigs.  See:
>
> https://www.nk7z.net/rebuilding-the-shack/
>
> Look at a few of the photos.  One shows a large copper ring terminal,
> which will fit a K3, etc., and how it was connected to 3/4 inch braid.
>
> Basically I folded the braid, inserted it and some solder cut to length
> into the ring terminal solder bucket.  I then held it in place with a
> set of pliers, and hit the ring terminal with a Burns-O-Matic torch.
> You can see the jig I had set up on the top of the glass jar.
>
> Yes...  I know grounds are not supposed to be soldered...
>
> I am sure there are better ways...  This is just what I did.
>
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> https://www.nk7z.net
> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> ARRL Technical Specialist
> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
>
> On 4/23/20 5:37 AM, Randy Farmer wrote:
> > I'm currently in the process of wiring up my new station and I happen to
> > be working on the equipment bonding phase for my pair of K3s SO2R
> > station. I'm doing my best to get decent connectivity between the
> > station components, but can't really figure out how to terminate large
> > (AWG 10) wire to the teeny 6-32 ground screws on the back of the K3,
> > especially since something like six bond wires need to be attached to
> > the transceivers. There appear to be no available ring terminals that
> > will fit these small screws; the smallest I can find are for #10 studs.
> > Even by using a threaded standoff installed in the K3 ground nut and a
> > longer screw to stand the rings off, stacking a bunch of these huge
> > terminals is extremely difficult. Providing some means of reasonably
> > quick disconnect for servicing purposes is equally difficult. Exactly
> > how can I go about connecting big wires to little ground posts?
> >
> > 73...
> > Randy, W8FN
> >
> > On 4/20/2020 10:22 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
> >> On 4/20/2020 6:08 PM, Tom Norris NB5Q wrote:
> >>> I'm asking what method and
> >>> attachment point, to each piece of equipment, you experienced K-Line
> >>> owners
> >>> use to bond the K3s, P3, SP3, etc. and then on to the station ground.
> >>
> >> I use wires soldered to screw lugs, making sure that the attachment
> >> point is not insulated from the chassis by paint. Some of the
> >> equipment has a dedicated grounding screw. Shells of DB connectors
> >> SHOULD be bonded to the equipment chassis, but not always -- some mfrs
> >> screw up and fail to do that.
> >>
> >> Some of my equipment goes out in the field from time to time, so I use
> >> single circuit Power Pole connectors to make that easy. I'll use 2-6"
> >> between the lug and the PowerPole, then make a loop soldered to a
> >> PowerPoles that connect to each piece of gear in the string (so each
> >> connector has two wires). There are lots of suitable variations on
> >> this, depending on how the shack is laid out.
> >>
> >> These are the slides for my talks on station power, grounding, and
> >> bonding. http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf
> >>
> >> 73, Jim K9YC
> >> __
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-- 
Randy Lake N1KWF
73 Gunn Rd.
Keene,NH
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Randy Lake]

Ok. I am sure I will get the wrath of God for going in this direction but
here we go. I was licensed in 91 and have put together 2 average so contest
stations with no grounds. None what so ever except power grounds. I have a
bunch of equipment, not intentionally interconnected, that has had no issue
in all that time. If I had seen something that led me to fix an issue I
certainly would have. Safety ? Maybe. I am just not sure that the thousands
of dollars that could be put into this type of grounding is necessary, in
my part of the world.
So, no grounds on lugs of any equipment, no grounds on tower (100') no
grounding of coax. Aside lightning strikes, which I have had and not issue,
what can I gain from spending the $$$ ?
If someone can convince me I will consider.

Randy N1KWF

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 8:38 AM Randy Farmer  wrote:

> I'm currently in the process of wiring up my new station and I happen to
> be working on the equipment bonding phase for my pair of K3s SO2R
> station. I'm doing my best to get decent connectivity between the
> station components, but can't really figure out how to terminate large
> (AWG 10) wire to the teeny 6-32 ground screws on the back of the K3,
> especially since something like six bond wires need to be attached to
> the transceivers. There appear to be no available ring terminals that
> will fit these small screws; the smallest I can find are for #10 studs.
> Even by using a threaded standoff installed in the K3 ground nut and a
> longer screw to stand the rings off, stacking a bunch of these huge
> terminals is extremely difficult. Providing some means of reasonably
> quick disconnect for servicing purposes is equally difficult. Exactly
> how can I go about connecting big wires to little ground posts?
>
> 73...
> Randy, W8FN
>
> On 4/20/2020 10:22 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
> > On 4/20/2020 6:08 PM, Tom Norris NB5Q wrote:
> >> I'm asking what method and
> >> attachment point, to each piece of equipment, you experienced K-Line
> >> owners
> >> use to bond the K3s, P3, SP3, etc. and then on to the station ground.
> >
> > I use wires soldered to screw lugs, making sure that the attachment
> > point is not insulated from the chassis by paint. Some of the
> > equipment has a dedicated grounding screw. Shells of DB connectors
> > SHOULD be bonded to the equipment chassis, but not always -- some mfrs
> > screw up and fail to do that.
> >
> > Some of my equipment goes out in the field from time to time, so I use
> > single circuit Power Pole connectors to make that easy. I'll use 2-6"
> > between the lug and the PowerPole, then make a loop soldered to a
> > PowerPoles that connect to each piece of gear in the string (so each
> > connector has two wires). There are lots of suitable variations on
> > this, depending on how the shack is laid out.
> >
> > These are the slides for my talks on station power, grounding, and
> > bonding. http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf
> >
> > 73, Jim K9YC
> > __
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> > Message delivered to w...@windstream.net
>
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-- 
Randy Lake N1KWF
73 Gunn Rd.
Keene,NH
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding, question for K9YC.

[Dave Cole]

That explains it perfectly Jim, thanks!!!

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 4/23/20 10:47 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 4/23/2020 7:23 AM, Dave Cole wrote:
In looking at your slides, slide 105, (thanks for sharing the 
presentation BTW), it strikes me that the coax cable braid running 
between radio/amp/tuner/antenna panel, would act as a bonding 
connection, so I would not need to add a large wire between those 
items.   Is this correct?  If not, why not?


The difference shows up at audio frequencies and for lightning. Coax 
between gear is usually longer than needed for bonding -- that is, 
dedicated bonding conductors can be shorter, thus lower inductance and 
resistance. See the slides that address audio buzz from power line 
leakage currents. At AF (and for lightning), bonding is a band-aid for 
Pin One Problems that is present in virtually all ham gear, computer 
gear, and audio gear.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Jim Brown]

On 4/23/2020 7:27 AM, N4ZR wrote:
I used a 3/4" copper water pipe along the back edge of my desk, with a 
short pigtail of #2 wire to the K3.


#2 ? That's FAR larger than needed for bonding inside the shack. 
Also, remember that lightning is an RF event, not a DC event, so 
inductance dominates the bonding impedance. #10-#12 stranded is plenty 
good enough for bonding between your gear and that bonding bus.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding, question for K9YC.

[Jim Brown]

On 4/23/2020 7:23 AM, Dave Cole wrote:
In looking at your slides, slide 105, (thanks for sharing the 
presentation BTW), it strikes me that the coax cable braid running 
between radio/amp/tuner/antenna panel, would act as a bonding 
connection, so I would not need to add a large wire between those items. 
  Is this correct?  If not, why not?


The difference shows up at audio frequencies and for lightning. Coax 
between gear is usually longer than needed for bonding -- that is, 
dedicated bonding conductors can be shorter, thus lower inductance and 
resistance. See the slides that address audio buzz from power line 
leakage currents. At AF (and for lightning), bonding is a band-aid for 
Pin One Problems that is present in virtually all ham gear, computer 
gear, and audio gear.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Jim Brown]

On 4/23/2020 6:11 AM, Randy Farmer wrote:
I'm attempting to follow Jim's advice (see slides 91 through 113 in his 
Grounding and Audio presentation referenced below).


Hi Randy,

In my station, I use crimp lugs that fit under chassis screws. Stranded 
wire works fine. When bonding in a string between interconnected gear, 
strands can be removed to fit in the crimps. I use single  connectors to 
a short length of wire at each chassis, then do the looped 
interconnection with the mating PowerPole. Inside the shack, I mostly 
use #12 stranded for bonding. Clipping a few strands from each, it's 
possible to fit two #12 wires in the largest (#10) PowerPole insert.


I've made up many hundreds of Power Pole cables of all sizes large and 
small, but I don't own a crimper for them. I crimp with needle-nose 
pliers and solder. There's a learning curve to making the insert fit. :)


I use PowerPoles in this application for two reasons. First, access to 
the rear of gear on my operating desk is difficult, because it's a shelf 
attached to the wall that supports it, and there are shelves both above 
and below that also hold gear. The shelves are held away from the wall a 
few inches so that cables can pass between them.


Second, some of my gear goes out into the field for FD, and for county 
and grid expeditions. The PowerPoles make that easier.


73, Jim K9YC






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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[donovanf]

Hey Pete, 2 AWG wire is 1/4 in diameter... 


Are you sure? 


Maybe your using super flexible welding wire... Maybe not... 


73 
Frank 
W3LPL 

- Original Message -

From: "N4ZR"  
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 2:27:52 PM 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding 

I think the answer lies in the ground bus. I used a 3/4" copper water 
pipe along the back edge of my desk, with a short pigtail of #2 wire to 
the K3. I used a yellow-jacketed Home Depot ring terminal on both ends 
of the #2, and metal-tapping screws to connect to the bus. 

73, Pete N4ZR 
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network 
at <http://reversebeacon.net>, now 
spotting RTTY activity worldwide. 
For spots, please use your favorite 
"retail" DX cluster. 

On 4/23/2020 8:37 AM, Randy Farmer wrote: 
> I'm currently in the process of wiring up my new station and I happen 
> to be working on the equipment bonding phase for my pair of K3s SO2R 
> station. I'm doing my best to get decent connectivity between the 
> station components, but can't really figure out how to terminate large 
> (AWG 10) wire to the teeny 6-32 ground screws on the back of the K3, 
> especially since something like six bond wires need to be attached to 
> the transceivers. There appear to be no available ring terminals that 
> will fit these small screws; the smallest I can find are for #10 
> studs. Even by using a threaded standoff installed in the K3 ground 
> nut and a longer screw to stand the rings off, stacking a bunch of 
> these huge terminals is extremely difficult. Providing some means of 
> reasonably quick disconnect for servicing purposes is equally 
> difficult. Exactly how can I go about connecting big wires to little 
> ground posts? 
> 
> 73... 
> Randy, W8FN 
> 
> On 4/20/2020 10:22 PM, Jim Brown wrote: 
>> On 4/20/2020 6:08 PM, Tom Norris NB5Q wrote: 
>>> I'm asking what method and 
>>> attachment point, to each piece of equipment, you experienced K-Line 
>>> owners 
>>> use to bond the K3s, P3, SP3, etc. and then on to the station ground. 
>> 
>> I use wires soldered to screw lugs, making sure that the attachment 
>> point is not insulated from the chassis by paint. Some of the 
>> equipment has a dedicated grounding screw. Shells of DB connectors 
>> SHOULD be bonded to the equipment chassis, but not always -- some 
>> mfrs screw up and fail to do that. 
>> 
>> Some of my equipment goes out in the field from time to time, so I 
>> use single circuit Power Pole connectors to make that easy. I'll use 
>> 2-6" between the lug and the PowerPole, then make a loop soldered to 
>> a PowerPoles that connect to each piece of gear in the string (so 
>> each connector has two wires). There are lots of suitable variations 
>> on this, depending on how the shack is laid out. 
>> 
>> These are the slides for my talks on station power, grounding, and 
>> bonding. http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf 
>> 
>> 73, Jim K9YC 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Buck]

Poke a hole in the braid and sandwich it between two large washers.  Or 
drill a hole in strap and sandwich that.  You can then put multiple 
holes in the strap to connect other wires.


I wish Elecraft had larger ground lugs.

k4ia, Buck
K3s# 11497
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/23/2020 9:11 AM, Randy Farmer wrote:
Thanks for the info, Dave. Your approach works fine IF you're using the 
ground bar ground technique. I'm attempting to follow Jim's advice (see 
slides 91 through 113 in his Grounding and Audio presentation referenced 
below). For this, you need bond wires between the individual boxes in 
the station. BTW, I have found that 1/2" braid can be rolled up and 
crimped in 45A Power Pole connectors.


73...
Randy, W8FN

On 4/23/2020 8:53 AM, Dave Cole wrote:

Hi Randy,

I rebuilt my shack six years ago, and documented a bit of that. One 
part was connecting grounds to the back of the rigs.  See:


https://www.nk7z.net/rebuilding-the-shack/

Look at a few of the photos.  One shows a large copper ring terminal, 
which will fit a K3, etc., and how it was connected to 3/4 inch braid.


Basically I folded the braid, inserted it and some solder cut to 
length into the ring terminal solder bucket.  I then held it in place 
with a set of pliers, and hit the ring terminal with a Burns-O-Matic 
torch. You can see the jig I had set up on the top of the glass jar.


Yes...  I know grounds are not supposed to be soldered...

I am sure there are better ways...  This is just what I did.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 4/23/20 5:37 AM, Randy Farmer wrote:
I'm currently in the process of wiring up my new station and I happen 
to be working on the equipment bonding phase for my pair of K3s SO2R 
station. I'm doing my best to get decent connectivity between the 
station components, but can't really figure out how to terminate 
large (AWG 10) wire to the teeny 6-32 ground screws on the back of 
the K3, especially since something like six bond wires need to be 
attached to the transceivers. There appear to be no available ring 
terminals that will fit these small screws; the smallest I can find 
are for #10 studs. Even by using a threaded standoff installed in the 
K3 ground nut and a longer screw to stand the rings off, stacking a 
bunch of these huge terminals is extremely difficult. Providing some 
means of reasonably quick disconnect for servicing purposes is 
equally difficult. Exactly how can I go about connecting big wires to 
little ground posts?


73...
Randy, W8FN

On 4/20/2020 10:22 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 4/20/2020 6:08 PM, Tom Norris NB5Q wrote:

I'm asking what method and
attachment point, to each piece of equipment, you experienced 
K-Line owners

use to bond the K3s, P3, SP3, etc. and then on to the station ground.


I use wires soldered to screw lugs, making sure that the attachment 
point is not insulated from the chassis by paint. Some of the 
equipment has a dedicated grounding screw. Shells of DB connectors 
SHOULD be bonded to the equipment chassis, but not always -- some 
mfrs screw up and fail to do that.


Some of my equipment goes out in the field from time to time, so I 
use single circuit Power Pole connectors to make that easy. I'll use 
2-6" between the lug and the PowerPole, then make a loop soldered to 
a PowerPoles that connect to each piece of gear in the string (so 
each connector has two wires). There are lots of suitable variations 
on this, depending on how the shack is laid out.


These are the slides for my talks on station power, grounding, and 
bonding. http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf


73, Jim K9YC
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Help: 

Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[N4ZR]

I think the answer lies in the ground bus.  I used a 3/4" copper water 
pipe along the back edge of my desk, with a short pigtail of #2 wire to 
the K3.  I used a yellow-jacketed Home Depot ring terminal on both ends 
of the #2, and metal-tapping screws to connect to the bus.


73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
at , now
spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.

On 4/23/2020 8:37 AM, Randy Farmer wrote:
I'm currently in the process of wiring up my new station and I happen 
to be working on the equipment bonding phase for my pair of K3s SO2R 
station. I'm doing my best to get decent connectivity between the 
station components, but can't really figure out how to terminate large 
(AWG 10) wire to the teeny 6-32 ground screws on the back of the K3, 
especially since something like six bond wires need to be attached to 
the transceivers. There appear to be no available ring terminals that 
will fit these small screws; the smallest I can find are for #10 
studs. Even by using a threaded standoff installed in the K3 ground 
nut and a longer screw to stand the rings off, stacking a bunch of 
these huge terminals is extremely difficult. Providing some means of 
reasonably quick disconnect for servicing purposes is equally 
difficult. Exactly how can I go about connecting big wires to little 
ground posts?


73...
Randy, W8FN

On 4/20/2020 10:22 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 4/20/2020 6:08 PM, Tom Norris NB5Q wrote:

I'm asking what method and
attachment point, to each piece of equipment, you experienced K-Line 
owners

use to bond the K3s, P3, SP3, etc. and then on to the station ground.


I use wires soldered to screw lugs, making sure that the attachment 
point is not insulated from the chassis by paint. Some of the 
equipment has a dedicated grounding screw. Shells of DB connectors 
SHOULD be bonded to the equipment chassis, but not always -- some 
mfrs screw up and fail to do that.


Some of my equipment goes out in the field from time to time, so I 
use single circuit Power Pole connectors to make that easy. I'll use 
2-6" between the lug and the PowerPole, then make a loop soldered to 
a PowerPoles that connect to each piece of gear in the string (so 
each connector has two wires). There are lots of suitable variations 
on this, depending on how the shack is laid out.


These are the slides for my talks on station power, grounding, and 
bonding. http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding, question for K9YC.

[Dave Cole]

Jim,

In looking at your slides, slide 105, (thanks for sharing the 
presentation BTW), it strikes me that the coax cable braid running 
between radio/amp/tuner/antenna panel, would act as a bonding 
connection, so I would not need to add a large wire between those items. 
 Is this correct?  If not, why not?


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 4/23/20 7:13 AM, Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP wrote:
I use thin, flat, copper strips. I use a paper punch to make neat holes 
in them. You can stack a whole bunch of them on a terminal. They are a 
little fragile, but you don't have to mess with them often.


73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
CWops no. 5
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
On 23/04/2020 15:37, Randy Farmer wrote:
I'm currently in the process of wiring up my new station and I happen 
to be working on the equipment bonding phase for my pair of K3s SO2R 
station. I'm doing my best to get decent connectivity between the 
station components, but can't really figure out how to terminate large 
(AWG 10) wire to the teeny 6-32 ground screws on the back of the K3, 
especially since something like six bond wires need to be attached to 
the transceivers. There appear to be no available ring terminals that 
will fit these small screws; the smallest I can find are for #10 
studs. Even by using a threaded standoff installed in the K3 ground 
nut and a longer screw to stand the rings off, stacking a bunch of 
these huge terminals is extremely difficult. Providing some means of 
reasonably quick disconnect for servicing purposes is equally 
difficult. Exactly how can I go about connecting big wires to little 
ground posts?


73...
Randy, W8FN

On 4/20/2020 10:22 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 4/20/2020 6:08 PM, Tom Norris NB5Q wrote:

I'm asking what method and
attachment point, to each piece of equipment, you experienced K-Line 
owners

use to bond the K3s, P3, SP3, etc. and then on to the station ground.


I use wires soldered to screw lugs, making sure that the attachment 
point is not insulated from the chassis by paint. Some of the 
equipment has a dedicated grounding screw. Shells of DB connectors 
SHOULD be bonded to the equipment chassis, but not always -- some 
mfrs screw up and fail to do that.


Some of my equipment goes out in the field from time to time, so I 
use single circuit Power Pole connectors to make that easy. I'll use 
2-6" between the lug and the PowerPole, then make a loop soldered to 
a PowerPoles that connect to each piece of gear in the string (so 
each connector has two wires). There are lots of suitable variations 
on this, depending on how the shack is laid out.


These are the slides for my talks on station power, grounding, and 
bonding. http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP]

I use thin, flat, copper strips. I use a paper punch to make neat holes 
in them. You can stack a whole bunch of them on a terminal. They are a 
little fragile, but you don't have to mess with them often.


73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
CWops no. 5
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
On 23/04/2020 15:37, Randy Farmer wrote:
I'm currently in the process of wiring up my new station and I happen to 
be working on the equipment bonding phase for my pair of K3s SO2R 
station. I'm doing my best to get decent connectivity between the 
station components, but can't really figure out how to terminate large 
(AWG 10) wire to the teeny 6-32 ground screws on the back of the K3, 
especially since something like six bond wires need to be attached to 
the transceivers. There appear to be no available ring terminals that 
will fit these small screws; the smallest I can find are for #10 studs. 
Even by using a threaded standoff installed in the K3 ground nut and a 
longer screw to stand the rings off, stacking a bunch of these huge 
terminals is extremely difficult. Providing some means of reasonably 
quick disconnect for servicing purposes is equally difficult. Exactly 
how can I go about connecting big wires to little ground posts?


73...
Randy, W8FN

On 4/20/2020 10:22 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 4/20/2020 6:08 PM, Tom Norris NB5Q wrote:

I'm asking what method and
attachment point, to each piece of equipment, you experienced K-Line 
owners

use to bond the K3s, P3, SP3, etc. and then on to the station ground.


I use wires soldered to screw lugs, making sure that the attachment 
point is not insulated from the chassis by paint. Some of the 
equipment has a dedicated grounding screw. Shells of DB connectors 
SHOULD be bonded to the equipment chassis, but not always -- some mfrs 
screw up and fail to do that.


Some of my equipment goes out in the field from time to time, so I use 
single circuit Power Pole connectors to make that easy. I'll use 2-6" 
between the lug and the PowerPole, then make a loop soldered to a 
PowerPoles that connect to each piece of gear in the string (so each 
connector has two wires). There are lots of suitable variations on 
this, depending on how the shack is laid out.


These are the slides for my talks on station power, grounding, and 
bonding. http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Dave Cole]

Hi Randy,

Thanks for the info!  Upon reflection, I will be following Jim's slide 105.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 4/23/20 6:11 AM, Randy Farmer wrote:
Thanks for the info, Dave. Your approach works fine IF you're using the 
ground bar ground technique. I'm attempting to follow Jim's advice (see 
slides 91 through 113 in his Grounding and Audio presentation referenced 
below). For this, you need bond wires between the individual boxes in 
the station. BTW, I have found that 1/2" braid can be rolled up and 
crimped in 45A Power Pole connectors.


73...
Randy, W8FN

On 4/23/2020 8:53 AM, Dave Cole wrote:

Hi Randy,

I rebuilt my shack six years ago, and documented a bit of that. One 
part was connecting grounds to the back of the rigs.  See:


https://www.nk7z.net/rebuilding-the-shack/

Look at a few of the photos.  One shows a large copper ring terminal, 
which will fit a K3, etc., and how it was connected to 3/4 inch braid.


Basically I folded the braid, inserted it and some solder cut to 
length into the ring terminal solder bucket.  I then held it in place 
with a set of pliers, and hit the ring terminal with a Burns-O-Matic 
torch. You can see the jig I had set up on the top of the glass jar.


Yes...  I know grounds are not supposed to be soldered...

I am sure there are better ways...  This is just what I did.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 4/23/20 5:37 AM, Randy Farmer wrote:
I'm currently in the process of wiring up my new station and I happen 
to be working on the equipment bonding phase for my pair of K3s SO2R 
station. I'm doing my best to get decent connectivity between the 
station components, but can't really figure out how to terminate 
large (AWG 10) wire to the teeny 6-32 ground screws on the back of 
the K3, especially since something like six bond wires need to be 
attached to the transceivers. There appear to be no available ring 
terminals that will fit these small screws; the smallest I can find 
are for #10 studs. Even by using a threaded standoff installed in the 
K3 ground nut and a longer screw to stand the rings off, stacking a 
bunch of these huge terminals is extremely difficult. Providing some 
means of reasonably quick disconnect for servicing purposes is 
equally difficult. Exactly how can I go about connecting big wires to 
little ground posts?


73...
Randy, W8FN

On 4/20/2020 10:22 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 4/20/2020 6:08 PM, Tom Norris NB5Q wrote:

I'm asking what method and
attachment point, to each piece of equipment, you experienced 
K-Line owners

use to bond the K3s, P3, SP3, etc. and then on to the station ground.


I use wires soldered to screw lugs, making sure that the attachment 
point is not insulated from the chassis by paint. Some of the 
equipment has a dedicated grounding screw. Shells of DB connectors 
SHOULD be bonded to the equipment chassis, but not always -- some 
mfrs screw up and fail to do that.


Some of my equipment goes out in the field from time to time, so I 
use single circuit Power Pole connectors to make that easy. I'll use 
2-6" between the lug and the PowerPole, then make a loop soldered to 
a PowerPoles that connect to each piece of gear in the string (so 
each connector has two wires). There are lots of suitable variations 
on this, depending on how the shack is laid out.


These are the slides for my talks on station power, grounding, and 
bonding. http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf


73, Jim K9YC
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Post: 

Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Randy Farmer]

Thanks for the info, Dave. Your approach works fine IF you're using the 
ground bar ground technique. I'm attempting to follow Jim's advice (see 
slides 91 through 113 in his Grounding and Audio presentation referenced 
below). For this, you need bond wires between the individual boxes in 
the station. BTW, I have found that 1/2" braid can be rolled up and 
crimped in 45A Power Pole connectors.


73...
Randy, W8FN

On 4/23/2020 8:53 AM, Dave Cole wrote:

Hi Randy,

I rebuilt my shack six years ago, and documented a bit of that. One 
part was connecting grounds to the back of the rigs.  See:


https://www.nk7z.net/rebuilding-the-shack/

Look at a few of the photos.  One shows a large copper ring terminal, 
which will fit a K3, etc., and how it was connected to 3/4 inch braid.


Basically I folded the braid, inserted it and some solder cut to 
length into the ring terminal solder bucket.  I then held it in place 
with a set of pliers, and hit the ring terminal with a Burns-O-Matic 
torch. You can see the jig I had set up on the top of the glass jar.


Yes...  I know grounds are not supposed to be soldered...

I am sure there are better ways...  This is just what I did.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 4/23/20 5:37 AM, Randy Farmer wrote:
I'm currently in the process of wiring up my new station and I happen 
to be working on the equipment bonding phase for my pair of K3s SO2R 
station. I'm doing my best to get decent connectivity between the 
station components, but can't really figure out how to terminate 
large (AWG 10) wire to the teeny 6-32 ground screws on the back of 
the K3, especially since something like six bond wires need to be 
attached to the transceivers. There appear to be no available ring 
terminals that will fit these small screws; the smallest I can find 
are for #10 studs. Even by using a threaded standoff installed in the 
K3 ground nut and a longer screw to stand the rings off, stacking a 
bunch of these huge terminals is extremely difficult. Providing some 
means of reasonably quick disconnect for servicing purposes is 
equally difficult. Exactly how can I go about connecting big wires to 
little ground posts?


73...
Randy, W8FN

On 4/20/2020 10:22 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 4/20/2020 6:08 PM, Tom Norris NB5Q wrote:

I'm asking what method and
attachment point, to each piece of equipment, you experienced 
K-Line owners

use to bond the K3s, P3, SP3, etc. and then on to the station ground.


I use wires soldered to screw lugs, making sure that the attachment 
point is not insulated from the chassis by paint. Some of the 
equipment has a dedicated grounding screw. Shells of DB connectors 
SHOULD be bonded to the equipment chassis, but not always -- some 
mfrs screw up and fail to do that.


Some of my equipment goes out in the field from time to time, so I 
use single circuit Power Pole connectors to make that easy. I'll use 
2-6" between the lug and the PowerPole, then make a loop soldered to 
a PowerPoles that connect to each piece of gear in the string (so 
each connector has two wires). There are lots of suitable variations 
on this, depending on how the shack is laid out.


These are the slides for my talks on station power, grounding, and 
bonding. http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Dave Cole]

Hi Randy,

I rebuilt my shack six years ago, and documented a bit of that.  One 
part was connecting grounds to the back of the rigs.  See:


https://www.nk7z.net/rebuilding-the-shack/

Look at a few of the photos.  One shows a large copper ring terminal, 
which will fit a K3, etc., and how it was connected to 3/4 inch braid.


Basically I folded the braid, inserted it and some solder cut to length 
into the ring terminal solder bucket.  I then held it in place with a 
set of pliers, and hit the ring terminal with a Burns-O-Matic torch. 
You can see the jig I had set up on the top of the glass jar.


Yes...  I know grounds are not supposed to be soldered...

I am sure there are better ways...  This is just what I did.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 4/23/20 5:37 AM, Randy Farmer wrote:
I'm currently in the process of wiring up my new station and I happen to 
be working on the equipment bonding phase for my pair of K3s SO2R 
station. I'm doing my best to get decent connectivity between the 
station components, but can't really figure out how to terminate large 
(AWG 10) wire to the teeny 6-32 ground screws on the back of the K3, 
especially since something like six bond wires need to be attached to 
the transceivers. There appear to be no available ring terminals that 
will fit these small screws; the smallest I can find are for #10 studs. 
Even by using a threaded standoff installed in the K3 ground nut and a 
longer screw to stand the rings off, stacking a bunch of these huge 
terminals is extremely difficult. Providing some means of reasonably 
quick disconnect for servicing purposes is equally difficult. Exactly 
how can I go about connecting big wires to little ground posts?


73...
Randy, W8FN

On 4/20/2020 10:22 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 4/20/2020 6:08 PM, Tom Norris NB5Q wrote:

I'm asking what method and
attachment point, to each piece of equipment, you experienced K-Line 
owners

use to bond the K3s, P3, SP3, etc. and then on to the station ground.


I use wires soldered to screw lugs, making sure that the attachment 
point is not insulated from the chassis by paint. Some of the 
equipment has a dedicated grounding screw. Shells of DB connectors 
SHOULD be bonded to the equipment chassis, but not always -- some mfrs 
screw up and fail to do that.


Some of my equipment goes out in the field from time to time, so I use 
single circuit Power Pole connectors to make that easy. I'll use 2-6" 
between the lug and the PowerPole, then make a loop soldered to a 
PowerPoles that connect to each piece of gear in the string (so each 
connector has two wires). There are lots of suitable variations on 
this, depending on how the shack is laid out.


These are the slides for my talks on station power, grounding, and 
bonding. http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Randy Farmer]

I'm currently in the process of wiring up my new station and I happen to 
be working on the equipment bonding phase for my pair of K3s SO2R 
station. I'm doing my best to get decent connectivity between the 
station components, but can't really figure out how to terminate large 
(AWG 10) wire to the teeny 6-32 ground screws on the back of the K3, 
especially since something like six bond wires need to be attached to 
the transceivers. There appear to be no available ring terminals that 
will fit these small screws; the smallest I can find are for #10 studs. 
Even by using a threaded standoff installed in the K3 ground nut and a 
longer screw to stand the rings off, stacking a bunch of these huge 
terminals is extremely difficult. Providing some means of reasonably 
quick disconnect for servicing purposes is equally difficult. Exactly 
how can I go about connecting big wires to little ground posts?


73...
Randy, W8FN

On 4/20/2020 10:22 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 4/20/2020 6:08 PM, Tom Norris NB5Q wrote:

I'm asking what method and
attachment point, to each piece of equipment, you experienced K-Line 
owners

use to bond the K3s, P3, SP3, etc. and then on to the station ground.


I use wires soldered to screw lugs, making sure that the attachment 
point is not insulated from the chassis by paint. Some of the 
equipment has a dedicated grounding screw. Shells of DB connectors 
SHOULD be bonded to the equipment chassis, but not always -- some mfrs 
screw up and fail to do that.


Some of my equipment goes out in the field from time to time, so I use 
single circuit Power Pole connectors to make that easy. I'll use 2-6" 
between the lug and the PowerPole, then make a loop soldered to a 
PowerPoles that connect to each piece of gear in the string (so each 
connector has two wires). There are lots of suitable variations on 
this, depending on how the shack is laid out.


These are the slides for my talks on station power, grounding, and 
bonding. http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Jim Brown]

On 4/20/2020 6:08 PM, Tom Norris NB5Q wrote:

I'm asking what method and
attachment point, to each piece of equipment, you experienced K-Line owners
use to bond the K3s, P3, SP3, etc. and then on to the station ground.


I use wires soldered to screw lugs, making sure that the attachment 
point is not insulated from the chassis by paint. Some of the equipment 
has a dedicated grounding screw. Shells of DB connectors SHOULD be 
bonded to the equipment chassis, but not always -- some mfrs screw up 
and fail to do that.


Some of my equipment goes out in the field from time to time, so I use 
single circuit Power Pole connectors to make that easy. I'll use 2-6" 
between the lug and the PowerPole, then make a loop soldered to a 
PowerPoles that connect to each piece of gear in the string (so each 
connector has two wires). There are lots of suitable variations on this, 
depending on how the shack is laid out.


These are the slides for my talks on station power, grounding, and 
bonding. http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K3s, etc. bonding

[Tom Norris NB5Q]

I don't want to re-invent the wheel so I'm asking what method and
attachment point, to each piece of equipment, you experienced K-Line owners
use to bond the K3s, P3, SP3, etc. and then on to the station ground. I
have
Thank you, Tom NB5Q
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