Re: [h-cost] Stomacher --a photo demo
Hi, I should not have answered as i did, obviously they did it in a different way than in my period. How long time did they have this lacing in the side bodice? Anybody knows? Bjarne - Original Message - From: Melody Watts [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2006 5:02 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stomacher --a photo demo Hi, Did you check out this? http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/Princesselizabeth.html this shows the bodice part without the stomacher/placard pinned on. The visual helps alot, I know I had a hard time wrapping my brain around how the gowns went on, as I kept thinking they laced up the back. This photo group made it all clear to me. melody --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was recently made aware of the stomacher from some previous posts. I make Elizabethan costumes and though it isn't strictly period I am interested in learning more about them. I don't have the luxury of a ladies maid and this invention would definitely make getting dressed by oneself easier. Can anyone explain the workings of these, or possibly have a good picture of how they're attached and how they cover the laces? Thank-you Tania ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Great Coat
Thanks Bjarne, but in the context this is definitely a dress of some kind. One of several references--We have retired to dress for dinner. Shall I tell you our dresses? I hear you say Yes. Mrs. P. wears a brocade; Cousin M. her pink Great-Coat, and I my pink. Ann Wass Anne, Have you thought about trying to contact Linda Baumgarten, the author of these books? If anyone would know, she is probably the person. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-form/ref=s_sf_b_as/104-8506690-0966322 I believe that she is the Curator of Textiles at Colonial Williamsburg. You may even be able to speak to her on the phone. :-) ( see below link ) http://www.history.org/search/contact.cfm Let us know, if you do find out? We're all intrigued now, I'm sure. Joannah ~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~ _ Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New Topic: drawstring necklines on chemises
On Sun, 19 Mar 2006, Jennifer Geard wrote: Hi All, On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 04:50, Kate M Bunting wrote: We've debated this topic more than once and the general consensus seems to be that chemises/shifts before the 18th century had stitched-down gathers, not drawstrings. I'm well behind and paying only another flying visit, but for what _might_ be another take on gathered chemise necklines, have a look at Raphael's La Donna Velata (http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/r/raphael/5roma/3/03velata.html - click image for larger version). Are the black bows with aglets functional or purely decorative? Ten years ago I made a version of this assuming the bow laces were functional and that they served to gather the camisa neckline. Using very fine fabric, separate gathering cords for the front, back and shoulders, and the tightest channel I could sew for the laces [*] I managed to make something that captured the look. It's quite possibly a fake, but if so it's a good enough fake that it made me wonder whether this might have been the way the gathering was achieved, even if it was then secured to a woven band. I remember this one! We had a great discussion of it in May 2004. I've saved a post I wrote then, which I'll append below. ISTR there were lots of different readings of the image, of which mine is only one. Probably worth going back to the archives to read them all, if this image interests you. --Robin Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 13:16:08 -0500 (CDT) From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drawstring chemise On Thu, 20 May 2004, Katie Pleasance wrote: If you click on the picture enough times you get a *very* enlarged image that shows much detail. Look at the bow on the right side of the picture. Look at the left-hand aiglette. Follow that cord back to the bow. Where the cord intersects the bow is a section of cord jutting to the left and disappearing into the casing. The casing opening is even rounded where the round cord enters the casing. To me this is evidence of a casing with a cord coming out of the casing and the cord (drawstring) being tied in a bow. The cord is a round cord as would be used as a drawstring. The bow looks functional rather than decorative. This isn't my period, but I've learned to look for multiple possibilities, and I'm pretty suspicious of drawstrings at this date. I do agree that the bow is functional. And it's also clear that the chemise edge breaks at the point of the bow, so it's discontinuous there. But it's also worth noting that the aiglettes would never pass through the tiny channel that runs along the top edge of the chemise, below the ruffled bit. It's possible that it's a drawstring that was put in first, with the aiglettes added later. But I also wonder if the bow is made of a cord of about five or six inches long, passed through an eyelet on each side of the break at neck edge. Such fastenings (IIRC) appear on Elizabethan shirts, or so I remember reading on this list. It's also worth noting that the bows are placed perfectly for nursing openings, meaning we might be looking at a means of closing slits that run vertically down from the bow points. The fullness of the chemise would keep the slits from opening up in the space between dress and neckline. Not a proof, just another point to consider. The pleats are a decorative edge trimming the neckline. The pleats attach to the body of the chemise at the top of the casing. Why do you think that? I would think that such an attachment would add quite a bit of bulk in the seam, which I'm not seeing. The ruffled bit could just as easily be the top part of the chemise fabric whether you're assuming a casing or not, particularly if the casing is made by putting a ribbon along the back of the fabric and stitching top and bottom to form a channel. But I think it still looks more like two lines of stitching holding the chemise pleats in place. Remember also that the artist would paint his impression of the look, meaning we probably won't see individual stitches if they are very small. It also means he may not have had the remotest idea of how the bow was fastened in, but only painted what he saw -- the bow interrupting the line of the chemise top and disappearing into the chemise fabric at each side. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New Topic: drawstring necklines on chemises
Very interesting, when you click it up to 200% you can see the string end entering the channel/casing, but I was wondering if it was only 2 pieces of string involved 1 very long one for the channel across the back of the shoulders to the area above the collar bones and a shorter run directly across the front of the bust? The agilets would prevent the cord from slipping in the channel and getting lost Are the black bows with aglets functional or purely decorative? When you say the 4 laces make stop points, do you mean there are 4 laces total involved or 4 ends,2 tying ends for each bows ? Have never seen this type of neck treatment and it opens alot of options Melody SNIP --- Jennifer Geard [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: ...another take on gathered chemise necklines, have a look at Raphael's La Donna Velata (http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/r/raphael/5roma/3/03velata.html - click image for larger version). [*] The four laces mean there are stop-points at the front and back of the armpits, controlling any tendency for the fullness to gravity-feed to the centre front and back. Discussion welcome. grin JLG -- Jennifer Geard ___ __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] semi-OT: waiting for books
So what's the implication here? That the seller is dishonest or that the publisher's printer is late? Or that media mail is slow? If their printer is late (and book printers usually are late, by some weeks), there is nothing you, a retailer, or in many cases the publisher can do about it. Book printers often work on the schedule most convenient for themselves. If the book was shipped by media mail, which can take a month or more, there is nothing much anyone can do about it after the book has been shipped. The post office also tends to work on the schedule most convenient for themselves. There is also nothing the members of h-costume can do about your order. Why not just ask whoever you ordered the book from--the retailer or the publisher? And what's the rush anyway? You preordered a book knowing it was not immediately available. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Edith Reardon wrote: Mine said Feb. 21 still no book Brin Lonnie D. Harvel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I ordered the Tudor Tailor. Still waiting on it. They said March 2006 and it is still March... E House wrote: Has anyone order and actually received either of these two books? The Tudor Tailor by Ninya Mikhaila et al (pre-ordered from website) ISBN: ? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume - Make free worldwide PC-to-PC calls. Try the new Yahoo! Canada Messenger with Voice ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] to dye for
We still have that poison green dye--they soak wood in it to keep it free from termites. Sharon -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 12:35 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] to dye for Not a reply to the previous mail about books, but the head`er made me think about a story i heard about poison dyes. In about 1840ies i heard there was a new invention with a very bright green colour. They made wall hangings with this dyed silks and also it became a very popular colour for fashionable ball dresses. But they didnt realise that it was a very poisonable dye. The skin would consume the poison. Have anybody other heard this? It was a story i heard at Gammel Estrup where they have a room with silk tapestries in this collour. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Can you help me find a similar fabric?
My daughter loves this fabric at http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/images/C16th/Eliz2005.jpg . Does anyone know where I can find something similar and not too expensive? Thanks, Aylwen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Early 19th century French term
The translation sure sound like the tool I got in January...online. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Diana Habra [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 11:27 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Early 19th century French term Has anyone run across a reference to some sort of early 19th-century tool for pinking fabric called an arrache-pièce à dents? (I'm not sure the accents will come through in the email you receive, but I tried. The only modern reference I've found to this terms to a tool called a gear puller in English, and this is certainly not that.) If so can you point me to any more info? As near as I can translate it (from my 4+ years of high school french) the literal translation is a piece puller with teeth. So your modern reference is very close to the french term. Could it be like the antique pinking tools you can see on EBay where you turn a crank and run the fabric through to pink the edge? Hope that helps... diana www.RenaissanceFabrics.net Everything for the Costumer Become the change you want to see in the world. --Ghandi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Can you help me find a similar fabric?
At 10:42 19/03/2006, you wrote: My daughter loves this fabric at http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/images/C16th/Eliz2005.jpg . Does anyone know where I can find something similar and not too expensive? Thanks, Aylwen Why don't you e-mail Ninya Mikhaila and ask her a) where she got what she used, and b) does she know a source for similar fabrics. She is usually very helpful. Otherwise you could look here http://www.mperkins.com/index.htm but I don't remember him having anything like this. Also type into whatever search engine you use, Church Fabrics. That usually produces big brocade patterns like this. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Can you help me find a similar fabric?
There is a merchant on EBay that sell church brocades. His prices are reasonable, and the fabric is yummy. Check fibre contents though, some are highly polyester and may not be suitable for your project. We found some good blends that are nice and heavy and have really good drape for period clothing. Kelly My daughter loves this fabric at http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/images/C16th/Eliz2005.jpg . Does anyone know where I can find something similar and not too expensive? Thanks, Aylwen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Early 19th century French term
My reference comes from almost a century earlier than the crank pinker you bought--I checked the picture of yours when you bought it. Do you have a picture of a crank pinker for home use like the one you bought but from the early 19th century/Regency period? All the other references I have from the same document are for an emporte-pièce, that is a punch, for pinking. From context the arrache-pièce à dents is something that pinks both edges of a strip of material, but I do not know whether it is a two-sided punch or some other kind device. Thanks, Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Lloyd Mitchell wrote: The translation sure sound like the tool I got in January...online. Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: 17th c doublet cuff closure
Bjarne, Carmen MikeT, Thanks so much for your design research help. I think I'm going to go with hidden hooks and a close fitting wrist to mimic the invisible closures (presumably hooks) at the CF on the Carvaggio. There's no way my guy will put up with pins at the wrist... tho an interesting piece of trivia! Thanks much for your help, y'all. I'll check out the Stockholm online photos, too. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Can you help me find a similar fabric?
Susan Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too fast and you miss all you are traveling for. - Ride the Dark Trail by Louis L'Amour On Mar 19, 2006, at 12:02 PM, Suzi Clarke wrote: At 10:42 19/03/2006, you wrote: My daughter loves this fabric at http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/images/C16th/Eliz2005.jpg . Does anyone know where I can find something similar and not too expensive? Thanks, Aylwen Why don't you e-mail Ninya Mikhaila and ask her a) where she got what she used, and b) does she know a source for similar fabrics. She is usually very helpful. Otherwise you could look here http://www.mperkins.com/index.htm but I don't remember him having anything like this. Also type into whatever search engine you use, Church Fabrics. That usually produces big brocade patterns like this. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] semi-OT: waiting for books
Well, I don't think there is any problem. In my case, as I said, the book is not even late. My voucher says it will be mailed when the First Editions come in (expected by the end of March). Given processing and mailing time, I wouldn't be concerned until the end of May comes along and I haven't heard anything. Not worried, just impatient for what looks like a wonderful resource! ;) Lonnie Lavolta Press wrote: So what's the implication here? That the seller is dishonest or that the publisher's printer is late? Or that media mail is slow? Lonnie D. Harvel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I ordered the Tudor Tailor. Still waiting on it. They said March 2006 and it is still March... ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Early 19th century French term
Do I recall a thread( that might now be in the archives) when the topic of pinking became a lively discussion of just such punchers that some of the people who do 18th C and maybe earlier were using...or looking for? I recall that someone had an earlier tool that others were suggesting that maybe someone doing metal crafting might copy for the benefit of the members who might want one. I guess that I had not seen the referent for the tool presently in question. Alas... Mine for the 19th C is proving to be most useful. I sure am glad I spotted it when I did. One that would do both sides at once would be an even Bigger help. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2006 12:18 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Early 19th century French term My reference comes from almost a century earlier than the crank pinker you bought--I checked the picture of yours when you bought it. Do you have a picture of a crank pinker for home use like the one you bought but from the early 19th century/Regency period? All the other references I have from the same document are for an emporte-pièce, that is a punch, for pinking. From context the arrache-pièce à dents is something that pinks both edges of a strip of material, but I do not know whether it is a two-sided punch or some other kind device. Thanks, Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Lloyd Mitchell wrote: The translation sure sound like the tool I got in January...online. Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Early 19th century French term
My question is largely whether this two-sided pinker _is_ a punch. It is apparently a different tool from the emporte-piece. I don't recall any 18th-century or Regency H-costume member commenting on a two-sided pinker. But if anyone knows of one--and especially if it was called a arrache-pièce à dents--I'd be glad to know. They had the base technology to develop a crank pinker for home use in the early 19th century, but whether they did develop one is another question. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Lloyd Mitchell wrote: Do I recall a thread( that might now be in the archives) when the topic of pinking became a lively discussion of just such punchers that some of the people who do 18th C and maybe earlier were using...or looking for? I recall that someone had an earlier tool that others were suggesting that maybe someone doing metal crafting might copy for the benefit of the members who might want one. I guess that I had not seen the referent for the tool presently in question. Alas... Mine for the 19th C is proving to be most useful. I sure am glad I spotted it when I did. One that would do both sides at once would be an even Bigger help. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2006 12:18 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Early 19th century French term My reference comes from almost a century earlier than the crank pinker you bought--I checked the picture of yours when you bought it. Do you have a picture of a crank pinker for home use like the one you bought but from the early 19th century/Regency period? All the other references I have from the same document are for an emporte-pièce, that is a punch, for pinking. From context the arrache-pièce à dents is something that pinks both edges of a strip of material, but I do not know whether it is a two-sided punch or some other kind device. Thanks, Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Lloyd Mitchell wrote: The translation sure sound like the tool I got in January...online. Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] semi-OT: waiting for books
Well, my hurry on the first order is that the book has been released, and was released about 7 weeks ago; the seller claims it should arrive within 2-4 weeks, which means _my_ individual order is 3-5 weeks late. I know others have gotten their copy; this leads me to think that something has gone wrong with _my_ order, and before I call the seller up to ask what's wrong, it seemed reasonable to try to find out if _I'm_ the only one with this problem, or if it's a problem everyone else is having. Since I was already asking about the one book, it seemed like a good time to ask about the other, which--as I stated in my email--I know is NOT late; it's merely eagerly expected. Based on what is on the writers'/publisher's website, mid-March is about the earliest it could have arrived; I posted about this in the hopes that those who lived closest to the mailing point might already have gotten their books, which would have meant that I, here in the US, was within a week or two of receiving my copy. I am not surprised or upset to discover that no one else has gotten their copy; I am merely better informed, having asked and been answered. I realize that this could be a touchy subject for you, but I think you're misinterpreting eager expectation as anger, which is no way involved--not even on the overdue book, and certainly not in this post. My original post was a request for information; not a complaint. -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] semi-OT: waiting for books
I realize that this could be a touchy subject for you, Why? I don't sell books before I get them in (although it is a common practice, and there is nothing wrong with it), nor do I get many complaints about late arrivals. I was merely trying to explain how the book industry works--which is about all you can expect from a post to people who know nothing about your order. There is no need to interpret _my_ repsonses as anger. I have nothing to do with either of these books. Fran Lavolta Press htttp://www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Great Coat
In a message dated 3/19/2006 9:35:37 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Have you thought about trying to contact Linda Baumgarten, the author of these books? If anyone would know, she is probably the person. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-form/ref=s_sf_b_as/104-8506690 -0966322 I believe that she is the Curator of Textiles at Colonial Williamsburg. You may even be able to speak to her on the phone. :-) ( see below link ) http://www.history.org/search/contact.cfm Let us know, if you do find out? We're all intrigued now, I'm sure. Thanks, yes, I know Linda and have thought about contacting her. (Unfortunately, even she was not able to help clear up one of my other mysteries, which still remains so.) Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Early 19th century French term
Just because you have a technology, or the potential for it, does not mean people were using it for that purpose at that time. A cranked pinker in the early 19th-century for home use is a technological possibility, but so is a two-sided punch. I was hoping someone on the list had definite info. Thanks, Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Lloyd Mitchell wrote: and the thought came to me that once the mechanization of the sewing machine was accomplished , how rapidly some of the same technology would be accommodated to other sewing room tasks. Pinking would certainly have been one of them...Then again, mayhap the technology got applied in the opposite order? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] painting references needed
Greetings! I am looking for pointers to online paintings (or woodcuts, etc.) of Polish, Russian, and Eastern European clothing from 13th century through the 16th century. References to books would be OK as well, I can check to see if the library has them or can borrow them. Thanks! Cheers! Lonnie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] books
One that I'm REALLY eager to get is the one on the Oseberg textiles. Supposedly it's at the printers and due out sometime in May according to (someone else's reading of) this article: http://www.aftenposten.no/fakta/innsikt/article1248828.ece Unfortunately, I don't read Norwegian and the translation engines are a bit limited., so I'm taking their word for it. Despite extensive searches on the Internet, I cannot find an ISBN or even a title of it though..and I get no replies to emails to the Viking Ship Museum. Beth Matney ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] books
Fred Struthers of R. L. Shep gets in a lot of foreign publications and is usually interested in hearing about new ones of interest to costumers. In other words, if he thinks some other customers will want it, in addition to you, he may well stock it. Fred's email address is [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Beth and Bob Matney wrote: One that I'm REALLY eager to get is the one on the Oseberg textiles. Supposedly it's at the printers and due out sometime in May according to ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Tudor Tailor Book update and Fabric source
Posted on behalf of My Lady's Wardrobe, who seems unable to post at present. Hi, TUDOR TAILOR BOOK deliveries: Due to promoting The Tudor Tailor this weekend at The Original Re-Enactor's Fayre and also Kentwell Hall (both in the UK), Ninya was actually staying with me in Suffolk. My husband Edmund has regularly commissioned gorgeous Elizabeth and Tudor suits of clothing from her and we both know her very well from Kentwell (Tudor and Elizabethan re-enactment!) I can confirm that the advance copies of the book arrived LAST FRIDAY (and it was touch and go as to whether they WERE going to arrive that day!) I now have my copy (which was given to me in return for helping to pattern test). Edmund has spirited it away at the moment whilst I am on the internet. Anyway, from tomorrow (20th March), Ninya has the job of packing up all the books that have been pre-ordered and sending them on their way to their new homes. The delivery time will now be at the mercy of the postal service but expect to receive it very soon! And I can say it really is a GREAT book! Well worth the wait! On a different topic: PRINCESS ELIZABETH fabric:- At 10:42 19/03/2006, you wrote: My daughter loves this fabric at http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/images/C16th/Eliz 2005.jpghttp://www.ninyamikhaila.com/images/C16th/Eliz2005.jpg . Does anyone know where I can find something similar and not too expensive? Thanks, Aylwen Aylwen, That fabric WAS VERY expensive. I know where it came from but I am not authorised to provide the person's details (and don't know their contact details anyway, only their name!). I have had different fabric from this person - it was an ivory and gold silk damask for my wedding gown. And that, 6 years ago was £75 (sterling) per metre! I know the purple one was MUCH more than that. However, at the Re-enactor's Fayre this weekend, there was a stall called Quartemasterie (no website!) who sell silks of all kinds (its amazing - I didn't succumb this time!). They have THAT VERY silk probably because it was the end of a bolt that someone else purchased and didnt use the rest. As such, they tend to be very much cheaper but their silks are very good quality. If you like, I can email them with the picture you gave a link to and ask them to send me a swatch of it and the cost? I can then pass it on to you. Its an odd fabric because the purple bits are very velvety in feel though it certainly is not velvet. Reply on the list as I can read it (I just cant POST to it for some bizarre reason) or contact me privately on myladysw AT myladyswardrobe DOT com Best wishes to all and hi to one or two of you who do know me. And Thanks to Suzi for posting on my behalf. Bess myladyswardrobe.com Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] painting references needed
At 20:03 19/03/2006, you wrote: Greetings! I am looking for pointers to online paintings (or woodcuts, etc.) of Polish, Russian, and Eastern European clothing from 13th century through the 16th century. References to books would be OK as well, I can check to see if the library has them or can borrow them. Thanks! Cheers! Lonnie Vecellio's Book of Costumes (or a similar title - not near my books). Dover book. Drawings by a 16th century Italian of costume from the known world. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] books
Hi, I could perhaps try to find the ISBN number for you, i could search for it in an online library. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Beth and Bob Matney [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2006 8:59 PM Subject: [h-cost] books One that I'm REALLY eager to get is the one on the Oseberg textiles. Supposedly it's at the printers and due out sometime in May according to (someone else's reading of) this article: http://www.aftenposten.no/fakta/innsikt/article1248828.ece Unfortunately, I don't read Norwegian and the translation engines are a bit limited., so I'm taking their word for it. Despite extensive searches on the Internet, I cannot find an ISBN or even a title of it though..and I get no replies to emails to the Viking Ship Museum. Beth Matney ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] You Bad Bad Bad people! VBEG
At 12:02 PM -0700 3/19/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I don't think there is any problem. In my case, as I said, the book is not even late. My voucher says it will be mailed when the First Editions come in (expected by the end of March). Given processing and mailing time, I wouldn't be concerned until the end of May comes along and I haven't heard anything. Not worried, just impatient for what looks like a wonderful resource! ;) Yeah sure, remind me about this book, while I have a few pennies. Sure and it's in the pre-order window. WEG And soon to be in my house G S how long till the next one comes out??? (Tapping one's foot impatiently!) Stuart clothes - Yeah! Ta Carol, who has worked out the scheme for the 17th cent dress, now to sew it up! -- Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 17th cent woolen/worsted cloth
Hi I have a question for all of you 17th cent mavens...What options are available for the cloth for a woolen or worsted jacket? Was most all of the wool cloth so heavily fulled and napped that the surface was smooth and plush? Was there much use of wool cloth (Middle sort, NOT Highlands, English) that had a distinct pattern other than tartan--either stripes in the warp or a shot--warp one color, weft another in tabby, or a twill made fancy by a different weft color? Or am I just getting to AR and should just start sewing the undies?? Ta Carol--slowly getting a handle on Mid 18th cent only to foolishly jump the Time Stream back a 100 years! Early 1st cent is beginning to look easy! G -- Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Daughter of Charity cornette
I saw a request on another list for instructions on how to make a Daughter of Charity cornette--sometimes called a butterfly headdress or sailboat headdress. Some folks call it the Flying Nun headdress even though it's not the same as used in the TV series. I know I tried finding instructions a few years ago but came up empty. There isn't a motherhouse here in Atlanta either to contact. I emailed someone in Emmitsburg but they didn't have instructions either at the time. I am looking to recreate a DC habit for a reenactment group here as a Civil-War era nurse but the cornette is the only thing I haven't figured out how to do yet. I do imagine it would require very starched linen over a cap. Anything would help. Thanks, Debra ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] semi-OT: waiting for books
??insert Vulcan eyebrow raise here Fran, I don't know you in person, but the tone of your notes does sometimes come across as, well, touchy. Don't know if you care or not, but the original poster's not the only one to think that --Sue - Original Message - From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2006 11:59 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] semi-OT: waiting for books I realize that this could be a touchy subject for you, Why? I don't sell books before I get them in (although it is a common practice, and there is nothing wrong with it), nor do I get many complaints about late arrivals. I was merely trying to explain how the book industry works--which is about all you can expect from a post to people who know nothing about your order. There is no need to interpret _my_ repsonses as anger. I have nothing to do with either of these books. Fran Lavolta Press htttp://www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New Topic: drawstring necklines on chemises
Adele de Maisieres [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I remain unconvinced that the black lace enters the channel. I think that what we're looking at is similar to this one: http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/p/palma/vecchio/blonde.jpg You beat me to it Adele! :-) Bella - On Yahoo!7 Messenger: Make free PC-to-PC calls to your friends overseas. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Tudor Tailor (was Re: [h-cost] You Bad Bad Bad people! VBEG
Quoting cahuff [EMAIL PROTECTED]: At 12:02 PM -0700 3/19/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I don't think there is any problem. In my case, as I said, the book is not even late. My voucher says it will be mailed when the First Editions come in (expected by the end of March). Given processing and mailing time, I wouldn't be concerned until the end of May comes along and I haven't heard anything. I never got a voucher -- but I do have a PayPal recepit. I hope there won't be a problem! Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] semi-OT: waiting for books
No, I don't care if lots of other people think I'm not nice, or whatever. Or whether they like me or not. I don't believe in the traditional (and outmoded) female role model of constantly saying, of course, it's only my opinion, it's just my two cents, your mileage may vary, what does the rest of the group think? ad nauseum. That's all about conformity. It has nothing to do with kindness, helpfulness, informativeness, or any positive virtue. Those are just continual statements that a woman is not supposed to think independently and that she should always be ready to back down the instant someone disagrees with her or says she's rude. It has nothing to do with real friendhip. A large percentage of the women playing out that role are constantly trying to stab each other in the back just under the line of what the group--whichever group it is--will openly complain about. Or getting together to gang up on each other, because if you've got enough people on your side, apparently it's OK to be as nasty as you want. Men, on the other hand, do not have to apologize every time they make a statement. They just do it. If more women felt OK about saying what they thought and doing what they wanted, maybe they'd stop trying to get everyone else to conform and lead more productive lives themselves. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Sue Clemenger wrote: ??insert Vulcan eyebrow raise here Fran, I don't know you in person, but the tone of your notes does sometimes come across as, well, touchy. Don't know if you care or not, but the original poster's not the only one to think that --Sue ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] books
Thanks Fran. I'll give them a try. Beth Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 12:10:00 -0800 Fred Struthers of R. L. Shep gets in a lot of foreign publications and is usually interested in hearing about new ones of interest to costumers. In other words, if he thinks some other customers will want it, in addition to you, he may well stock it. Fred's email address is [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fran Lavolta Press ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] books
Thanks, Bjarne. I would really appreciate any information that you could find on this book! As the book is not out yet, I tried to find a forthcoming publications for Univ. of Oslo, but was not successful. Beth Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 21:29:22 +0100 From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi, I could perhaps try to find the ISBN number for you, i could search for it in an online library. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Daughter of Charity cornette
I saw a request on another list for instructions on how to make a Daughter of Charity cornette--sometimes called a butterfly headdress or sailboat headdress. Some folks call it the Flying Nun headdress even though it's not the same as used in the TV series. I know I tried finding instructions a few years ago but came up empty. There isn't a motherhouse here in Atlanta either to contact. I emailed someone in Emmitsburg but they didn't have instructions either at the time. I am looking to recreate a DC habit for a reenactment group here as a Civil-War era nurse but the cornette is the only thing I haven't figured out how to do yet. I do imagine it would require very starched linen over a cap. Trying spelling it coronet. :-) I found a resource that might get you started. There is an article here http://www.staugcatholic.org/archives/May-June2004.pdf and a photograph starting on 16. They mention a book title that you might get from an interlibrary loan service. Might try contacting the magazine and/or the author as well. looking through this catalog is fun, http://www.blessings-catalog.com/ but I don't know how much help it will be. Also, they are quitting business, so if you need a Nun doll, hurry! Denise Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] painting references needed
Lonnie, Have you gotten the Summer 2005 Complete Anachronist #128 - A Polish Miscellany? Of course that assumes that you are a member of the SCA, and get CA's. If you aren't/don't, it is available from the Stock Clerk https://secure.sca.org/cgi-bin/stockclerk/ca.html Go to page 13 for this particular one. It has a decent Bibliography. I'm cataloguing my books with LibraryThing.com and just put in a little volume I got from Krems in Austria titled: _Tender Meat Under Saddle: Customs of Eating, Drinking and Hospitality among Conquering Hungarians and Nomadic Peoples_ (Available from Poison pen Press at http://www.poisonpenpress.com/cookery.html (not affiliated). Part of a conference organized by the College of Commerce, Catering and Tourism, The Society of Old-Hungarian Culture, and the Department of Medieval and Postmedieval Archeology, Eotvos Lorand University, Budapest (October 10-11, 1996) Those titles might give you places to look. The front cover has an illustration of: The seven chiefs of the Hungarians (detail) J. Thuroczi, Chronica Hungarorum, Burnn 1486. Regina -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Suzi Clarke Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2006 12:21 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] painting references needed At 20:03 19/03/2006, you wrote: Greetings! I am looking for pointers to online paintings (or woodcuts, etc.) of Polish, Russian, and Eastern European clothing from 13th century through the 16th century. References to books would be OK as well, I can check to see if the library has them or can borrow them. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] semi-OT: waiting for books
Greetings-- I don't believe in the traditional (and outmoded) female role model of constantly saying, of course, it's only my opinion, it's just my two cents, your mileage may vary, what does the rest of the group think? ad nauseum. That's all about conformity. It has nothing to do with kindness, helpfulness, informativeness, or any positive virtue. Those are just continual statements that a woman is not supposed to think independently and that she should always be ready to back down the instant someone disagrees with her or says she's rude. I can't say I agree with you that it's about conformity or being female. It *can* be about conformity, but it also can be about leadership. I am a project manager by profession, and I absolutely have to say in team meetings what does the rest of the group think? My job is to lead the project--but I'll be the first to admit that I don't know much about software programming, and I'm going to rely on the experts to tell me if that schedule I'm expecting them to follow is unreasonable. If I don't do that, project fails, no matter how strong I am. Sometimes I have to turn around and then say to that expert who told me they could get something done in ten days, OK, it's the seventh day and you're only 50% done. What's with that? and hold them to their commitment. I'll agree that women should not just back down because someone disagrees with them or calls them rude. However, I can't agree that being honest about one's opinions or asking for input from others is necessarily a bad trait. It all depends on the way it's done and how. Susan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] semi-OT: waiting for books
I can't say I agree with you that it's about conformity or being female. It *can* be about conformity, but it also can be about leadership. I am a project manager by profession, and I absolutely have to say in team meetings what does the rest of the group think? A recreational e-group is not a job/work team meeting. Nor, unlike a work meeting, does it usually exist to perform any specific task or solve any specific problem. Nor do most social situations exist for work purposes. What I am driving at is that women traditionally--though not, BTW, by most employees in any company I've ever worked for, and not nearly as much in the San Francisco area as with people from some other geographic areas I encounter on the net--are expected to express themselves differently from men. Some women seem to feel expected to say almost everything with an implicit apology built in, a continual deference to everyone else, a continual wariness as to whether they're agreeing or disagreeing with anyone whatever about anything whatever. The attitude is that people are always important than facts, ideas, analysis, and any and every criteria above or outside of belonging to the group. I find it puzzling, because as I said, real friendship is very seldom involved. It's not like most people women are expected to defer to would do anything whatever for them in any time of trouble. Often the relationships they work so hard to maintain have a constant hostile undercurrent. It seems like a useless endeavor. And, most men get through life just fine saying what they think and standing by it. There is no reason why women should have to behave differently. I'll agree that women should not just back down because someone disagrees with them or calls them rude. However, I can't agree that being honest about one's opinions or asking for input from others is necessarily a bad trait. I think being honest about one's opinions--rather than constantly deferring to others regarding said opinions--is a very positive trait. As for asking for input from others--asking someone who has, or who you believe to have expertise, is not the same thing as constantly making sure you don't ever disagree with anyone about anything, or apologizing every time you do. Most of what I'm talking about has nothing to do with anyone's expertise. Also, the business of a social group allotting people specific slots as anoited experts who are assumed to be _always_ right about their topic, and whom no one ever disagrees with, and some of them even expect everyone to apologize for offering any information about their topic even if it is in agreement with them: This is just a facet of what I was talking about above, assuming that the group is always more important than ideas, facts, analysis, and everything outside the group. In other words, it is sensible to ask your plumber for her or his expert opinion on whether all your pipes really need to be replaced. Even though you may or may not follow that advice, because it is also sensible to get estimates from other plumbers and read up on the subject before hiring anyone. Just because an expert says something does not mean they are always correct or unbiased. Going through social or work life saying, I don't want to step on anyone's toes by even discussing this subject, and I don't want to upset anyone by disagreeing, but I think thus and so, but of course your mileage may vary and I'm perfectly willing to retract everything I just said if even a single person disagrees, and if I did happen to disagree with anyone I'm really sorry because I must have hurt their feelings yadda, yadda, yadda, yadda, is just female conformity that achieves no productive end whatever. It all depends on the way it's done and how. It also depends on where it's done, and for what purpose. Again, a meeting of project members on a work team is not a social e-group. Nor do I usually hear people constantly apologizing for their opinions or stated facts in work situations. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] corded/trapunto doublet question
I'm the one who about a month ago asked about possible shrinkage of corded corsets and bodices. Based on answers here I've decided to cut my fencing doublet pieces with an extra 1 all around, just in case. I'm debating whether to assemble the interlining and outerlining pieces separately before cording, or after - given that this is a garment with armholes, I'm leaning towards cord pieces separately and then assemble, but If anyone has any solid arguments for the other way around I'd love to hear them! Thanks in advance, Allison T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] semi-OT: waiting for books
I don't believe in the traditional (and outmoded) female role model of constantly saying, of course, it's only my opinion, it's just my two cents, your mileage may vary, what does the rest of the group think? ad nauseum. Tone is not apparent on a list like this one, so I think it's important to spell out one's opinions and offer citations. Statements like those Fran mentions are sometimes used to emphasize that the writer is not saying always or never. There are plenty of topics in costume research where we can state a general trend, which may have rare exceptions. Or the observation is different in another culture or a few decades earlier/later. It's a soft area of research in many ways, with new information found or new experiments attempted. Some of the statements are a shorthand way of saying This is my own research/experience and others may find something different. I would be very interested to hear about any examples in XYZ culture for the years __ to __. YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary) covers differences in body size, price ranges, etc. As long as people don't get too much into obscure acronyms, or too use many assumptions so that their meaning is not clear. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] semi-OT: waiting for books
- Original Message - From: Lavolta Pressmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costumemailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2006 2:21 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] semi-OT: waiting for books If more women felt OK about saying what they thought and doing what they wanted, maybe they'd stop trying to get everyone else to conform and lead more productive lives themselves. ** You're wrong--it's nothing whatsoever to do with someone's sex. Pontificating boors are pontificating boors regardless of whether they are male or female. LuAnn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] semi-OT: waiting for books
Tone is not apparent on a list like this one, so I think it's important to spell out one's opinions and offer citations. You're talking about several different things here. Some people spend way too much effort worrying about tone. Rational dispute--giving a different opinion, and backing it up with facts and/or analysis--is sensible. It often leads to interesting discussions, sheds new light on many things, etc. Emotionally based dispute--complaining that you just don't like the way someone phrased something, or that you just don't like them personally, is not rational dispute. It does not offer any information, or shed any new light on whatever subject is at hand, or give any real reason why someone disagrees with something. As for citations--Yes, they're a good thing, but an email list is not an academic article or dissertation. This is a recreational list. Not everyone has the time to write a detailed essay every time they want to discuss a topic, nor are their reference works always directly at hand. I'd say if and when people can and want to offer citations, great. But I don't think you can reasonably obligate people to provide them all the time in this context. Statements like those Fran mentions are sometimes used to emphasize that the writer is not saying always or never. I don't think statements like it's just my opinion etc., are a good way to convey that. There are many other, shorter, and more precise ways to do it. For example: By XXX date, most American families owned a sewing machine. versus: By XXX date, families had a sewing machine, at least that's my opinion, of course you may disagree. It's a soft area of research in many ways, with new information found or new experiments attempted. History is a soft enough science that some data will never be available, and what there is can be interpreted in many different and equally plausible ways. But this is a given. Some of the statements are a shorthand way of saying This is my own research/experience and others may find something different. I would be very interested to hear about any examples in XYZ culture for the years __ to __. If someone makes a statement of opinion, who else's would it be but their own? If they make a statement of fact, of course it's their own research, either from primary sources or from reading other people's research/secondary sources. And of course someone else may have found out some different facts or give a different opinion; maybe many people. This is a given, and constantly saying so is meaningless. If you have a definite area you're not sure about, or you want to solicit information on a certain topic, it's more meaningful to say, for example: I got this information from my research on the clothing of middle-class families in New York City, but it is not necessarily true for all areas and social classes. I'm also interested in working-class families in New England, has anyone done any research on them? Rather than: Of course this is just my research, someone else may have found out something different, there are always exceptions, I always say never say never. YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary) covers differences in body size, price ranges, etc. As long as people don't get too much into obscure acronyms, or too use many assumptions so that their meaning is not clear. I think it's better to define what's being qualified: These corset instructions work best for large busts rather than: These corset instructions work great for me, YMMV. Having said all that--I only write to spec if you pay me. And you couldn't possibly pay me enough to use any emoticon, or to say never say never or some of the other pat phrases I see. I suppose I can't expect anyone else to write to my specs (as above). But I also have the right to say things the way I think is best. Best, Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New Topic: drawstring necklines on chemises
On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 13:28, Melody Watts wrote: When you say the 4 laces make stop points, do you mean there are 4 laces total involved or 4 ends,2 tying ends for each bows ? I made mine with four laces -- front, back and two sides. The stop points are at the 'corners' where the laces meet. However, Adele pointed out http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/p/palma/vecchio/blonde.jpg, which frankly looks like a more plausible explanation. I'll quietly regret the 26,000 (!) messages from this list that I deleted -- mostly unread -- in a recent clean-up, and leave you to your regular discussions. wry grin - that's a few years' worth of failing to keep up Cheers, Jennifer -- Jennifer Geard ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re:Glove pic
Whoops, sorry, my dumb... I missed somehow that you already have garment leather. I really shouldn't try to answer emails on my tea break. Joannah ~*~ Practice random acts of kindness, and senseless acts of beauty. ~*~ --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That is exactly what I plan on using. I purchased some white vintage kid gloves and will tack on the wrist decoration with russet and olive ribbons. I currently have it in a garment weight leather, butit's coming off rather heavy looking and totally overpowering the delicacy of the kid and the silk ribbons. _ Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
