Re: [h-cost] not getting mail
Thanks! I got a bunch last night too. Katy On 12/11/06, Sue Clemenger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I didn't get any all weekend, and then a whole bunch of them all this evening (after 5 p.m.), starting back from Friday morning. Must have been some sort of glitch, although I'd just figured it had been a quiet weekend --Sue - Original Message - From: Katy Bishop [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 7:39 AM Subject: [h-cost] not getting mail I am not getting any h-costume mail, got almost none yesterday (just one at 4AM), just testing to see if I get this. Katy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian [EMAIL PROTECTED]www.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian [EMAIL PROTECTED]www.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 0f belts and hanging sleeves
Two questions: Waugh suggests Swiss belts for some of the mid 19thC dresses. Any clue as to what these looked like? I am working out the problems of interpreting the Darnley Dress for my QEI 14 doll. At first, I thought I was looking at a sleeveless coat be set to give a cape effect. On closer examenation, I see that this is actually a hanging sleeve...born out by Waugh, Arnold, and Hunnisett. I have worked out the shape and cut but am having problems with the set. In order for the unity of the skirt , bodice and sleeve that bear the ornamentation, I can only achieve the look by inserting the hanging sleeve outside in. This means that the lining will actually be the outside fabric. Has anyone else attempted this dress for real? I have turned the backside of the shoulder area backwards so the gathers of the shoulder look like the painting...and will tack them downover the silk lining, but the lining is still exposed in all its plainess. I have been unable to find any explanation of how this was done. Or, might the error be at the end of the artist's brush? He chose to try to capture the total dazzle of the gown? Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin
Helen Pinto wrote: So... I will scan and send photos of anything that someone fancies, and the whole thing can belong to the first person who asks for it. (You have two weeks to ask for the pictures, then I'll mail it.) The highlights: What a nice offer. I would love to see scans of anything from 1750-1850, especially 1800-1820. And if no one else claims it... - Hope -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] edu, Academic Computing, Uof Vermont ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 0f belts and hanging sleeves
At 14:06 11/12/2006, you wrote: Two questions: Waugh suggests Swiss belts for some of the mid 19thC dresses. Any clue as to what these looked like? Could this be the same as I have heard called Swiss Waists in the U.S. That is a belt that is shaped to an upward and downward facing point at the centre front. I am working out the problems of interpreting the Darnley Dress for my QEI 14 doll. Do you mean the Ditchley dress? At first, I thought I was looking at a sleeveless coat be set to give a cape effect. On closer examenation, I see that this is actually a hanging sleeve...born out by Waugh, Arnold, and Hunnisett. I have worked out the shape and cut but am having problems with the set. In order for the unity of the skirt , bodice and sleeve that bear the ornamentation, I can only achieve the look by inserting the hanging sleeve outside in. This means that the lining will actually be the outside fabric. Hunnisett suggests that the armhole and the sleeves are both finished, (bound is easiest) and then the sleeves are whipped in by hand. That way you can put the hanging sleeve on first, and the dress sleeve inside it. I have done double sleeves like this and it works with no difficulty. Has anyone else attempted this dress for real? I have turned the backside of the shoulder area backwards so the gathers of the shoulder look like the painting...and will tack them downover the silk lining, but the lining is still exposed in all its plainess. I have been unable to find any explanation of how this was done. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 0f belts and hanging sleeves
I believe that Swiss belts in the mid-19th century were the ones that were wider in the front, often with a point at center front and frequently had a laced effect there mimicking the lacing on a bodice. Which portrait are you referring to for Queen E? The portrait I know as the Darnley Portrait is the one in gold and cream with the 'Polish' frog closures up the front of the doublet-bodice and no sign of hanging sleeves at all. Are you thinking of one of the Armada portraits? Karen Seamstrix -- LLOYD MITCHELL [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Two questions: Waugh suggests Swiss belts for some of the mid 19thC dresses. Any clue as to what these looked like? I am working out the problems of interpreting the Darnley Dress for my QEI 14 doll. At first, I thought I was looking at a sleeveless coat be set to give a cape effect. On closer examenation, I see that this is actually a hanging sleeve...born out by Waugh, Arnold, and Hunnisett. I have worked out the shape and cut but am having problems with the set. In order for the unity of the skirt , bodice and sleeve that bear the ornamentation, I can only achieve the look by inserting the hanging sleeve outside in. This means that the lining will actually be the outside fabric. Has anyone else attempted this dress for real? I have turned the backside of the shoulder area backwards so the gathers of the shoulder look like the painting...and will tack them downover the silk lining, but the lining is still exposed in all its plainess. I have been unable to find any explanation of how this was done. Or, might the error be at the end of the artist's brush? He chose to try to capture the total dazzle of the gown? Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 770
In a message dated 11/12/2006 15:39:35 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Tardis? --Sue the police box from dr who (time and relative dimension in space - does knowing that make me a dweeb??) as in seems to be much bigger inside than it looks from the outside - must be cos can never find anything...:o) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 770
In a message dated 11/12/2006 15:39:35 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Subject: Re: [h-cost] German 1830's-40's lower classes? To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1 Any body know where I can look for images of German (or surrounding areas) lower to middle classes -- also military and mental wards? Doing a production of Woyzeck by Beuchner (died 1836) and the director would like to use this time frame but we seem to find mostly upper class. Have you tried looking at the paintings of Bruegel? He painted some lovely peasant scenes. I think he is Dutch but it is in the surrounding area. Also, the woodcuts of Durer might have some ideas for you also (he was German). Good luck! but breugal and durer are both much earlier ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin
Helen Pinto wrote: In the process of (finally) unpacking my books, I've been finding things that could use a home other than mine. I have a Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin from back in the days when they sent members these glossy books every quarter. I would like to have it, if it's not one I laready own. What is the date on it? Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: Tardis
-Original Message- Kind of sad the Police Boxes are disappearing, but they've worked that a bit into the new Doctor Who series where the Tardis stands out a lot more instead of being more anonymous. And the so-called historic costuming in episodes where it is called for, is just as much fun to pick apart as the original series. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Mixing fibers (was: Re: striped skirt)
I couldn't quote you chapter and verse at the moment, but I've run across quite a few regulations/laws about mixing fibers fiber content. From what I can remember, they all boiled down to either quality control, or truth in advertising, and a lot of them were pushed by whichever guild applied. The only source I can think of for examples at the moment is Mizzoui's cotton book, which I don't have, or possibly textiler hausrat, which ditto. -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
Yup. Thanks for the post. That is the kind of thing I was remembering. Worsted vs woolen-- pretty funny, since both are wool. Worsted is just a fine spun wool. Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Lauren Walker Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:23 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt Depending on where and when, some of the guild and export regulations required specific fabrics to be unmixed; I'll dig out my Cambridge History of Western Textiles tonight and see if I can find some examples. Most of them were,if I'm remembering right, about not allowing worsted where woolen was expected, or not allowing wheel- spun fibers to be used in warp, only in weft, which today we would not even think of as mixing fibers. Lauren On Dec 10, 2006, at 10:46 PM, monica spence wrote: I think there were laws about mixing fibers, that did not have to do with religion, as well. Can't think of where off the tp of my head, but if I find it I'll post it. monica/ Catriona -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:h-costume- [EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Adele de Maisieres Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:17 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt monica spence wrote: But wasn't there laws about mixing two fibers in a cloth? Yes, if you're a very observant Jew. -- Adele de Maisieres - Habeo metrum - musicamque, hominem meam. Expectat alium quid? -Georgeus Gershwinus - ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Lauren M. Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] fibers for paper
Those laws might also have somthing to do with paper production. Seem to remember a law, somewhere, probably england or denmark, where people were forbidden to be buried in linen and cotton. Wool cannot be used for paper and it would be a waste to put linen in with wool when the time came to reuse the fibers. As you get closer to the industrial revolution, the more the need for sources for paper increase, which is only made good by the invention of the woodpulp paper (I do bookbinding as a hobby too), which is by many still counted as inferior to ragpaper Tania (Denmark) E House [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I couldn't quote you chapter and verse at the moment, but I've run across quite a few regulations/laws about mixing fibers fiber content. From what I can remember, they all boiled down to either quality control, or truth in advertising, and a lot of them were pushed by whichever guild applied. The only source I can think of for examples at the moment is Mizzoui's cotton book, which I don't have, or possibly textiler hausrat, which ditto. -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume - Have a burning question? Go to Yahoo! Answers and get answers from real people who know. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Mixing fibers
Aha... looks like the topic has headed in a direction that I am very interested and currently looking into. What I'm trying to find is evidence of when wool and silk might first have been spun together to form a thread or yarn. Not that I'm making copious headway at the moment, but it's one of those questions currently being pursued. Any have an answer? Thanks, Mari / Bridgette On 12/11/06, E House [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I couldn't quote you chapter and verse at the moment, but I've run across quite a few regulations/laws about mixing fibers fiber content. From what I can remember, they all boiled down to either quality control, or truth in advertising, and a lot of them were pushed by whichever guild applied. The only source I can think of for examples at the moment is Mizzoui's cotton book, which I don't have, or possibly textiler hausrat, which ditto. -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: tardis
Police telephone boxes no longer exist at all; they became obsolete when the police got personal radios. there's still a police box somewhere in wakefield (forget where exactly) in yorkshire - but it's brick built (looks a bit like a small signal box). and police round here have blackberries now!! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] German 1830's-40's lower classes?
He's about 250 years early for what I'm looking for Kate 609-570-3584 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Diana Habra Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 1:36 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] German 1830's-40's lower classes? Any body know where I can look for images of German (or surrounding areas) lower to middle classes -- also military and mental wards? Doing a production of Woyzeck by Beuchner (died 1836) and the director would like to use this time frame but we seem to find mostly upper class. Have you tried looking at the paintings of Bruegel? He painted some lovely peasant scenes. I think he is Dutch but it is in the surrounding area. Also, the woodcuts of Durer might have some ideas for you also (he was German). Good luck! Diana -- www.RenaissanceFabrics.net Everything for the Costumer Become the change you want to see in the world. --Ghandi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 770
I don't know, in my house it was my 8-year old granddaughter arguing with my 27 year old son whether it was red or blue... alex On 12/11/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 11/12/2006 15:39:35 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Tardis? --Sue the police box from dr who (time and relative dimension in space - does knowing that make me a dweeb??) as in seems to be much bigger inside than it looks from the outside - must be cos can never find anything...:o) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Tardis
If you miss the good old blue tardis, come to Edinburgh, there are oodles of them still around here. :-) Not in use, of course, except for those which serve coffee and soup. Nicole - Original Message From: Abel, Cynthia [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, 11 December, 2006 4:59:17 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Tardis -Original Message- Kind of sad the Police Boxes are disappearing, but they've worked that a bit into the new Doctor Who series where the Tardis stands out a lot more instead of being more anonymous. And the so-called historic costuming in episodes where it is called for, is just as much fun to pick apart as the original series. Cindy Abel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 768
I much prefer the idea of the fold box, from Glory Road. Julian, in old Jersey. Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Dr. Who?.. or Fold Box from Glory Road Issue 768 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
Yes, there were laws, but IIRC, the purpose was to keep unscrupulous weavers and merchants from selling cloth at a higher cost just because they could say it was woven with blank. They'd just leave out the 'percentage' that blank. Just like the other guilds, they kept a close watch on their members, for fraud. I think that there might some examples of guild members being publicly punished, such as bakers, and other such folks. Queen Elizabeth, at the urging of different guilds, to do some proclamations, but nothing specific comes to mind. Drat! I seem to remember reading somewhere that one of the Italian city-state guilds had even instigated the use of color coding the selvedges, to keep track. I'm away from my books, so don't can't verify right now. And my memory may be playing me false! Anyone who can help with those vague memories or let me know that my memory might be out of kilter, please post! Well, back to work... Elena/Gia -- Original message -- From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] I've read The Devil's Cloth and I agree that there are some interesting-- and sometimes far fetched -- ideas presented there. I remember seeing a painting right after I read the book. It was John the Baptist baptizing Jesus. Jesus is wearing a striped undergarment. Somehow I doubt that He would not be wearing something that was questionable-- even if it is a painting. Just as a side note. I made the Beatrice dress. IMO the stripes have to be spliced in or applied. I remember the stripes doing domething funky around the shoulders. Remember too, that this is a postumous picture of her-- she died in childbed (the baby she lost is kneeling next to her in the picture)-- so she wouldn't be posing in the dress, anyway. As for stripes themselves-- everything woven would have to be yarn dyed, unless there are two different fibers used. Then two chemically different dyes, formulated to work with one of the fibers, could be dumped into the same pot. This is a modern dye method and I am not sure how far back it goes. But wasn't there laws about mixing two fibers in a cloth? Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Cat Dancer Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 6:08 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt On Wed, 6 Dec 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ooo, a whole book about it! Thanks! I don't remember where I found my copy. It's a fascinating book even if some of his theories are off-the-wall. :-) The one thing it did do was to get us to look critically at portrayals and look for themes and such. Pixel, is there any way of knowing if the sumptuary laws meant woven-in stripes, applied stripes or pieced stripes? That painting with Mary Magdalen looked like they might be applied. The Castilian law specifies types of cloth (which I will have to look up when I get home) but the London law just says 'rayed cloth'. [I highly recommend /Governance of the consuming passions : a history of sumptuary law/ by Alan Hunt, if you want to dig deeper.] The rayed cloth of the London law is probably woven-in stripes, stripes being what you, the weaver, do if you have leftover yarns but not enough of any one color to do anything useful with. I want to say that cloth woven of dyed wool is going to be cheaper than cloth that is woven and then dyed, but I don't have enough knowledge of the medieval textile industry to be saying that. [Here is where someone who does, steps in and corrects me. ;-)] Certainly the comments in the inventories and accounts are specific that rayed cloth is for the members of the household fairly far down on the social scale--the valets and such. What we've found, in going over some amazingly huge number of illuminations, frescos, panel paintings, book illustrations, etc., is that when someone is portrayed in stripes and/or parti-colour, that person is somehow a social inferior to at least one of the other people in the artwork. So we see stripes (and sometimes plaids) on musicians and on the people that my consort refers to as minions--the various servants, lackeys, etc. that tend to hang around important people in the art. Except in the Manesse Codex, where I suspect that stripes indicate someone who is a fop or otherwise on the edge of fashion. Note that that's only a hypothesis--it hasn't made it to theory yet. ;-) Thanks to everyone who responded! I love this kind of conversation with you guys! Tea Rose Anything to geek about stuff that isn't work! Pixel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com
Re: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin
Oh please think of me with the 1695 gown and all the 18th century things? Bjarne - Original Message - From: Helen Pinto [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 11:18 PM Subject: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin In the process of (finally) unpacking my books, I've been finding things that could use a home other than mine. I have a Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin from back in the days when they sent members these glossy books every quarter. It's from the costume collection and contains large, high-quality pictures of garments from 1695 through the early 1950's, including microphotographs of some of the embroidered detail of the garments. It's nice to look at, but way past anything I'm really interested in. So... I will scan and send photos of anything that someone fancies, and the whole thing can belong to the first person who asks for it. (You have two weeks to ask for the pictures, then I'll mail it.) The highlights: - Complete embroidered woman's dress from 1695 - Four men's 18th c embroidered coats, one uncut, one with original embroidery cartoon, one with pants and vest - Men's banyans - Assorted women's 18c dresses, one with panniers, most sack-backed, all embroidered or hand-painted, 1740's - 1795 - Assorted women's 19c outfits, day dresses, evening wear, several from each decade - Assorted women's 20c outfits, evening wear, suits, etc, up to the 50's -Helen/Aidan - ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] wool/worsted was Re: striped skirt
Not quite. It has to do with the fiber length and the way the fiber is prepared for spinning. Worsted was combed long staple and woolen was carded short staple that is spun to make thread. Because combing lays fibers along the length of the thread, it makes a stronger thread, but woolen can be fulled and a nap raised and sheared. The progression in history was combed (worsted...wasn't called that until much later), half worsted (combed warp, carded weft), then woolen. Like most generalities, this is over-simplified (Romans also had napped and sheared wool textiles). Early wheel spun thread was deemed too weak to take the stresses as warp, causing an inferior cloth. There were quite sensible reasons for the guild regulations: it has to do with reputation, market and getting premium prices. Since textile towns (and their guilds) lived or died.. quite literally.. based on the sales of their products, they were not inclined to take too many unnecessary risks. Beth At 11:17 AM 12/11/2006, you wrote: Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 12:09:30 -0500 From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] Worsted vs woolen-- pretty funny, since both are wool. Worsted is just a fine spun wool. Monica ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] question about a book
Hello, I would like to thank all you who answered my question about this book. As i was after a book with many pictures in it, and thoaght it must be full of those for that price, it was very nice of you to warn me about buying it. Many thanks for your help Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] textiles was Re: striped skirt
Many cities, not just the Italian ones used color coded selvages.. and there were cases of other cities counterfeiting them. I believe I read about these in various economic history books studying the wool trade, probably Carus-Wilson or Bridbury. Lead cloth seals were also used to mark the origin of the textiles. Lead cloth seals were used up to modern times. I got a bolt of cotton the other year with one on it! I know of no cases of mixing fibers in the thread in Medieval (or earlier) Europe (with the possible exception of dog/wool blends in the Greenland finds). Many cases of mixing threads in a cloth however (some quite famous): silk warp/cotton weft (mulham), linen warp/cotton weft (fustian), linen/woolen (linsey-woolsey) and silk/woolen come to mind. Beth At 12:38 PM 12/11/2006, you wrote: Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 18:25:12 + From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt Yes, there were laws, but IIRC, the purpose was to keep unscrupulous weavers and merchants from selling cloth at a higher cost just because they could say it was woven with blank. They'd just leave out the 'percentage' that blank. Just like the other guilds, they kept a close watch on their members, for fraud. I think that there might some examples of guild members being publicly punished, such as bakers, and other such folks. Queen Elizabeth, at the urging of different guilds, to do some proclamations, but nothing specific comes to mind. Drat! I seem to remember reading somewhere that one of the Italian city-state guilds had even instigated the use of color coding the selvedges, to keep track. I'm away from my books, so don't can't verify right now. And my memory may be playing me false! Anyone who can help with those vague memories or let me know that my memory might be out of kilter, please post! Well, back to work... Elena/Gia ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 770
I always loved the idea, it helped out the Set Production people. All you had to do is make sure that the 'outside' door was always on the same wall,, and VIOLA!! instant set changes without trying to figure out where to put the new room/ hallways/ pool/ art gallery/ wardrobe room without giving the floor plan people fits... Katheryne who still has her Dr. Who Fan Club of America t-shirt, and 36 VCR tapes of Dr Who Obligatory Historic Cotume note: I'm right now in the process of making a linen lined wool 12th Century Tunic.. Although being slightly alergic to wool is proving to be interesting. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Tardis? --Sue the police box from dr who (time and relative dimension in space - does knowing that make me a dweeb??) as in seems to be much bigger inside than it looks from the outside - must be cos can never find anything...:o) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 770
The original one was BLUE - because at the time the production people got it out of a Junk Yard. At the time it was created all of the Police Boxes were being slowly phased out and red Phone Booths were being phased in. So NOW they are red, the original Tardis was blue and was blue through 5 Doctors. Katheryne Dr Who dweeb - Original Message - From: Alexandria Doyle I don't know, in my house it was my 8-year old granddaughter arguing with my 27 year old son whether it was red or blue... alex [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Tardis? --Sue the police box from dr who (time and relative dimension in space - does knowing that make me a dweeb??) as in seems to be much bigger inside than it looks from the outside - must be cos can never find anything...:o) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: tardis
On Dec 11, 2006, at 9:23 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Police telephone boxes no longer exist at all; they became obsolete when the police got personal radios. there's still a police box somewhere in wakefield (forget where exactly) in yorkshire - but it's brick built (looks a bit like a small signal box). There's also one in London outside King's Cross Station. -- andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen - http://www.bovil.com/ Play Internet Argument-Losing Bingo! http://www.shortpacked.com/d/20060405.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Costume coup happy dance!
Dear h-costumers, As I went about my Christmas shopping with my lists from my college age children who all want cds and dvds for gifts now, I was at Borders Bookstore and (having printed a few cupons from the internet from their site) I was ablel to get 25% savings on a book and a cd. Browsing about the boxed dvd sets my eyes happend upon Elizabeth R with Glenda Jackson -- the very one I have been longing for for ages!! I saw it years ago when it first came out, but with the price of either vhs or dvd, I couldn't afford my dream.I have been doing Reniassance faires for 15 years now and this was the gold standard for costuming. I especially liked the headgear. However, , this time I had a cupon for 40% off a boxed dvd set @ $70.00!! Yes, indeed, I bought it and told my husband Thank you for my Christmas present! I just had to spill it to folks I know would understand. Donna Scarfe Fyne Hats By Felicity Period Hats for Past Ages www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Tardis
I have one in my garage (don't ask), -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1860 dress
Hi, I am so happy. Finally I made my 1860 dress so that I really like it. http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Victorian/Victorian.html I wore it at the Anton Pieck Parade in Haarlem (the Netherlands). We had so much fun. There are some more pictures here (click on galerij in the menu on the left) http://www.de_zwarte_zwaan.dds.nl/index2.html Greetings, Deredere ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1860 dress
At 02:33 PM 12/11/2006, you wrote: Hi, I am so happy. Finally I made my 1860 dress so that I really like it. http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Victorian/Victorian.html I wore it at the Anton Pieck Parade in Haarlem (the Netherlands). We had so much fun. There are some more pictures here (click on galerij in the menu on the left) http://www.de_zwarte_zwaan.dds.nl/index2.html Greetings, Deredere Very nice job on your dress, Deredere! The gentlemen looked good, too. ;-) Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1860 dress
It looks beautiful! Thank you for sharing! Marjorie Marjorie Gilbert author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England www.marjoriegilbert.net Creating a Circa 1798 - 1805 Empire Gown http://marjoriegilbert.net/album_30_028.htm - Original Message - From: Deredere Galbraith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 5:33 PM Subject: [h-cost] 1860 dress Hi, I am so happy. Finally I made my 1860 dress so that I really like it. http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Victorian/Victorian.html I wore it at the Anton Pieck Parade in Haarlem (the Netherlands). We had so much fun. There are some more pictures here (click on galerij in the menu on the left) http://www.de_zwarte_zwaan.dds.nl/index2.html Greetings, Deredere ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cockades-French vs Scottish? Instructions?
Hi. The unit website that you referenced is an old one (the unit, not the website) of mine, so I might perhaps chime in (as might Kathy and Dave if they so choose..) The Toorie is the tassel on the top of the bonnet, having nothing to do with the cockade. The history of the cockade is that of displaying ones unit or political affiliation on the front of the bonnet. Generally, the Scots cockade is of a cluster of ribbons in the color of the Regiment, Commander or Affiliation (say, for example, blue for Covenanter or Red for Royalist during the ECW period). The Scots cockade most commonly recognized now (worn on modern Scots Regimental headwear) is a single piece of black ribbon rutched in the middle, laid longways on the cap. This, I believe, comes from the final Scots uprising of the '45, where the troops loyal to Charles wore a white saltire cross ribbon (the saltire of Scotland), and the Government troops opposing them wore pretty much the opposite in, well, opposition. After the rebellion (or as I like to think of it, Restoration) was put down, all Government (loyal) Scots troops adopted the black cockade. The French version appears to be either in a single color (whichever color opposed the Monarchy, red, IIRC) or the tricolor, and appears to be circularly shaped as opposed to the bowtie shaped Scots version. It all depends on what period and what political affiliation is needed to create what you are looking to do. First, find out what period you are recreating. Please feel free to send me a note and perhaps I can be of some assistance. Cheers, Mike T. A friend asked me to find out about instructions for making a Scottish Cockade. In my internet search it appears that there may be a significant difference between the two types. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1860 dress
Beautiful!!! Thanks for sharing :) Deredere Galbraith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, I am so happy. Finally I made my 1860 dress so that I really like it. http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Victorian/Victorian.html I wore it at the Anton Pieck Parade in Haarlem (the Netherlands). We had so much fun. There are some more pictures here (click on galerij in the menu on the left) http://www.de_zwarte_zwaan.dds.nl/index2.html Greetings, Deredere ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume - Need a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know. Ask your question on Yahoo! Answers. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] another delay: A-S Cloth
On Monday 11 December 2006 10:36 am, Beth and Bob Matney wrote: OK. Just got the word: Cloth and Clothing in Anglo-Saxon England, AD 450-700 by Penelope Rogers has been delayed again.. now April 2007 release date. I will only have had it on order for two years Aw, nuts. And I was hoping finally to see it for Christmas. :-( Thanks for the update; I was thinking of calling David Brown Book Company myself to check the status; now I don't have to. -- Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point of doubtful sanity. --Robert Frost ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Costume coup happy dance!
On Monday 11 December 2006 4:31 pm, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Dear h-costumers, As I went about my Christmas shopping with my lists from my college age children who all want cds and dvds for gifts now, I was at Borders Bookstore and (having printed a few cupons from the internet from their site) I was ablel to get 25% savings on a book and a cd. Browsing about the boxed dvd sets my eyes happend upon Elizabeth R with Glenda Jackson -- the very one I have been longing for for ages!! I saw it years ago when it first came out, but with the price of either vhs or dvd, I couldn't afford my dream.I have been doing Reniassance faires for 15 years now and this was the gold standard for costuming. I especially liked the headgear. However, , this time I had a cupon for 40% off a boxed dvd set @ $70.00!! Yes, indeed, I bought it and told my husband Thank you for my Christmas present! I just had to spill it to folks I know would understand. Congratulations on your coup! -- Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] A civilized society is one which tolerates eccentricity to the point of doubtful sanity. --Robert Frost ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 771
Merry Xmas to all!! Do anyone knows where can I find White Buff Leather? Jose -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 1:17 PM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 771 Send h-costume mailing list submissions to h-costume@mail.indra.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can reach the person managing the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of h-costume digest... ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re:tardis
There's also one in London outside King's Cross Station. ooh, is it still there? last time I was there there was so much work being done I didn't notice ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Any Tudor Tailorers?
Has anyone yet made any of the patterns from the Tudor Tailor book yet? I'm currently making a pair of venetians and am struggling to figure out the pocket. Please feel free to email me off list. Allison T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Any Tudor Tailorers?
Hi Allison, There is an unofficial yahoo group for readers of the book. Ninya is also on the list, and often gives answers. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Tudor_Tailor_Reader/ And yes, I've just made a Henrician gown from some info in the book, and info from Hunnisett's book, too. Kimiko A. Thurman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Has anyone yet made any of the patterns from the Tudor Tailor book yet? I'm currently making a pair of venetians and am struggling to figure out the pocket. Please feel free to email me off list. Allison T. ___ - Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
Au contraire! There's a huge amount of difference between the two--just ask any skilled spinner, and many weavers and knitters as well. The original processing of the fiber is different, the spinning methods are different, the end results are different. Fineness has little to do with it--I'm actually in the middle of spinning some laceweight singles out of hand-carded targhee, and I'm deliberately spinning them with a woolen technique. --Sue - Original Message - From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:09 AM Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt Yup. Thanks for the post. That is the kind of thing I was remembering. Worsted vs woolen-- pretty funny, since both are wool. Worsted is just a fine spun wool. Monica ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Mode di Firenzie
You know that lovely Italian/English book that we all wanted because of the Eleonora of Toledo stuff? I suggested to Ian Stevens of David Brown Books that maybe they could get hold of it and distribute it. Michael Shamansky Art Books was the only place I managed to get mine a year ago. Here is what Ian has found out: By the way. The Inventories of Henry VIII (Starkey ed.) have been marked back down to $72 on their website. You don't want to know what new books they have though! Anyone want a nice facsimile edition of the Luttrell Psalter? At 12:28 AM 12/9/2006, you wrote: Is there any way that Oxbow or David Brown could get hold of Moda a Firenze 1540-1580 from the Museum that publishes it? Hi Wanda, The publisher tells us that the book is out of print! So, buy one if you get the chance (whatever the cost!). Yikes! Best, Ian Ian Stevens Vice President The David Brown Book Company Box 511 (28 Main St) OAKVILLE, CT 06779 Tel: 860-945-9329 Fax: 860-945-9468 www.oxbowbooks.com The David Brown Book Company is the US arm of Oxbow Books. DBBC distributes and markets scholarly and specialist books to the North American academic community. The company has a strong focus on books in the following disciplines: Archaeology, Classics, the Ancient Near East, Ancient Egypt, Medieval Studies, Religion, Literary Studies Linguistics, Food History and Genealogy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Tardis
At 04:53 PM 12/11/2006, you wrote: I have one in my garage (don't ask), -C. Now you KNOW we have to ask! Dianne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] scans from MMA Bulletin
Thank you for this generous offer! The women's 19th C. and 20th C. outfits, et al., might be useful for teaching purposes at the university where I work -- but I'm a librarian, not a Textiles Clothing professor, so would you be willing to send scans to me and I can contact the right people? (Well, to be honest, we'd probably like to see everything! But I don't want to seem greedy.) If it's too much trouble then never mind Suzanne (You may use the address I'm posting from, OR [EMAIL PROTECTED]) - Original Message - From: Helen Pinto [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 11:18 PM Subject: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin In the process of (finally) unpacking my books, I've been finding things that could use a home other than mine. I have a Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin from back in the days when they sent members these glossy books every quarter. It's from the costume collection and contains large, high-quality pictures of garments from 1695 through the early 1950's, including microphotographs of some of the embroidered detail of the garments. It's nice to look at, but way past anything I'm really interested in. So... I will scan and send photos of anything that someone fancies, and the whole thing can belong to the first person who asks for it. (You have two weeks to ask for the pictures, then I'll mail it.) The highlights: - Complete embroidered woman's dress from 1695 - Four men's 18th c embroidered coats, one uncut, one with original embroidery cartoon, one with pants and vest - Men's banyans - Assorted women's 18c dresses, one with panniers, most sack- backed, all embroidered or hand-painted, 1740's - 1795 - Assorted women's 19c outfits, day dresses, evening wear, several from each decade - Assorted women's 20c outfits, evening wear, suits, etc, up to the 50's -Helen/Aidan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Costume history text
I know we've discussed this before, but not in terms of cost. I will be teaching a costume history class at a community college next semester and would like to order textbooks for the students to buy. Cost is really a factor at community colleges, so I was wondering if any of you could recommend a good reasonably priced text.Has anyone used Doug Russell's book before? He was one of my first costume profs and I loved the way he taught. I have 2 of the books he wrote and am tempted to use one of them, as I like it and think it might be less expensive than some others, but I thought I'd get your opinions. Sylrog ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mode di Firenzie
Hi Wanda, I am trying to get the Henry VIII book for my Christmas present from my husband. Must remember to sweet talk him tonight after the kids are in bed. And oh, my, I am glad I got my copy of the Moda book. Thanks for the heads up. Kimiko Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You know that lovely Italian/English book that we all wanted because of the Eleonora of Toledo stuff? snip By the way. The Inventories of Henry VIII (Starkey ed.) have been marked back down to $72 on their website. snip The publisher tells us that the book is out of print! So, buy one if you get the chance (whatever the cost!). Yikes! Best, Ian - Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume history text
Sylrog, What time period are you covering in the class? Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com www.costumelibrary.com www.costumeclassroom.com www.costumeencyclopedia.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] question about a book
Ann, The newer addition is a lot better. In my class I just refer to certain pages in the book. My class starts in 1840 and ends at 1970. Those sections are good in the book for an overview. I just remembered that I bought the book used on Amazon not eBay. My book was used and was in perfect condition. When I was a student, I used my book for three costume history classes. So I got my money out of it. Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com www.costumelibrary.com www.costumeclassroom.com www.costumeencyclopedia.com - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:43 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] question about a book In a message dated 12/10/2006 7:27:38 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Found this book. Its rather expensive, and it doesnt say much about the book. Do any here know it? This is one of the standard history of costume texts used here in the U.S. I haven't seen the latest edition--I have the last one. It is just that, a very general survey. I'm not sure, Bjarne, whether you would find it very useful. I would say that, if you do not have any of the general survey books, you ought to have at least one. How expensive is it? Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Tardis
Dianne Greg Stucki wrote: At 04:53 PM 12/11/2006, you wrote: I have one in my garage (don't ask), -C. Now you KNOW we have to ask! No, if she said she had one in her kitchen, asking would be imperative. Garage, not so much. (and I know why at least one person would have a police box in their kitchen) andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Mode di Firenzie
just go to the http://www.oxbowbooks.com website and click on the $ and do the search for the Inventories. Warning, Warning Will Robinson. The books that are on the same page are DANGEROUS to your pocketbook! Wanda Hi Wanda, I am trying to get the Henry VIII book for my Christmas present from my husband. Must remember to sweet talk him tonight after the kids are in bed. And oh, my, I am glad I got my copy of the Moda book. Thanks for the heads up. Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
