Re: [h-cost] Techniques Used?
Dear All, I am a lurker and sporatic one at that, so I apologize if this has already been suggested-- I have sewn shaped pintucks by machine using a twin needle. Below is a link to a child's dress using the technique. By clicking on the small photos, you can see a larger version. http://fwebb.com/children/budget.html These are corded twin-needle pintucks. They were stitched on white cotton batiste and simultaneously corded with pink pearl cotton which shadowed through the white batiste. I have also stitched wavy and scalloped twin-needle pintucks successfully on silk dupioni and handkerchief linen. For the first pintuck, trace the shape using a water-erasable marker or chalk pencil. Follow your shape. At pivot points, stop with the needles down, lift the presser foot, gently pivot, then continue. The needles twist slightly but straighten out when you begin sewing again. For additional tucks, use the grooves in your pintuck foot just as you would for straight pintucks. Twin-needle pintucks look different if they are stitched parallel to the selvage or from selvage to selvage. You can also change the depth of the tuck by adjusting your needle tension. My machine (Pfaff) has a little attachment that goes just in front of the pintuck foot to make the tucks deeper. Have fun experimenting! And please let me know if you have questions. Thanks, Frances in Virginia --- On Tue, 8/12/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Message: 4 Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 07:34:41 -0700 From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: technique used? To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Probably, but in this case I think you'd have problems with the serger seam showing through on the bottom. The pin tucks appear larger than those made by specialized feet on most machines But the seam itself could be done with a straight stitch...(but not too tight-might be too stiff)...and then pulled into the scallop shape by hand Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Historic Textiles Examination from Burgos Cathedral, Madrid Spain
This is fabulous! Thank you both for sharing this. Monica Spence -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 2:08 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Historic Textiles Examination from Burgos Cathedral,Madrid Spain http://www.middelaldercentret.dk/pdf/burgosrapport.pdf My friend Camilla Louise Dahl sent this link to me to share. Enjoy Sg Sorry if this is a repeat - it didn't appear to come through on H-costume. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae
Thanks! I never thought of it before this morning, and now I HAVE to find out as much as possible...am gleefully gathering portraits Liadain Jussst a little OCD THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO You get a wonderful view from the point of no return... wildernesse, the Outlands http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ginni Morgan Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 2:18 PM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae A friend of mine was able to photograph the Elizaethan era smock at the museum in Manchester last year. I'll ask her and get back to the list. Ginni ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae - additional information
In the meantime, I looked at the one photograph she gave me and it appears that the garment has a yoke with a square neck and a slit opening on the back side. The yoke is fully lined with the seam turned to the inside and what appears to be a line of topstitching worked along the edge just inside the neckline. I would guess the topstitching is only about a * or less from the edge. There is a band of blackwork (about 1 wide) that runs completely around the neck and does not show through on the facing. The sleeves have three bands of blackwork running the length of each sleeve. Ginni Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8/13/08 1:24 PM Has anyone on the list laid hands on an extant 16th-century square-necked ladies' smock? If so, can you tell me how the neck is finished? Facing? Applied needlework? Rolled hem? Someone asked me, and I suddenly realized I have no basis in fact for how I do mine... Liadain THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO You get a wonderful view from the point of no return... wildernesse, the Outlands http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This communication with its contents may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. It is solely for the use of the intended recipient(s). Unauthorized interception, review, use or disclosure is prohibited and may violate applicable laws including the Electronic Communications Privacy Act. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender and destroy all copies of the communication. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle
You mentioned that they only had two patterns in their line. I only know of one-the Regency wardrobe. What was the other? Thanks Carol Chicagoland Costumer's Guild www.chicostume.org Costume Midwest http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumemidwest/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae - additionalinformation
Kewl! So far I haven't gone off the historical path with mine, unless this one hnas been re-worked at some point (though I'm sure museum would note that.) Why the slit, I wonder? In the neckline? Is the neck smaller that we would expect, or about what we see in portraits? And BTW, do you know the approximate year of this smock? Thanks for sharing! Liadain Gonna start saving up for that trip to England... THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO You get a wonderful view from the point of no return... wildernesse, the Outlands http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ginni Morgan Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 2:31 PM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae - additionalinformation In the meantime, I looked at the one photograph she gave me and it appears that the garment has a yoke with a square neck and a slit opening on the back side. The yoke is fully lined with the seam turned to the inside and what appears to be a line of topstitching worked along the edge just inside the neckline. I would guess the topstitching is only about a * or less from the edge. There is a band of blackwork (about 1 wide) that runs completely around the neck and does not show through on the facing. The sleeves have three bands of blackwork running the length of each sleeve. Ginni ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae
Quoting Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Thanks! I never thought of it before this morning, and now I HAVE to find out as much as possible...am gleefully gathering portraits Have you looked at Jane Stockton's embroidery page? I think that there's lots of links to blackwork stuff there. Or google for blackwork . (but then you've done that already, right?) Liadain Jussst a little OCD nah. I'm a little OCD. I wound up with a PhD because I wanted to identify my Trillium pictures! jerusha/ susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae
Haven't been much of anywhere yet, since must keep taking time out for Little Orphan Kitteh, but plan to do a lot of surfing later! L And I ain't even gonna get a degree out of all this! THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO You get a wonderful view from the point of no return... wildernesse, the Outlands http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Susan Farmer Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 2:44 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae Quoting Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Thanks! I never thought of it before this morning, and now I HAVE to find out as much as possible...am gleefully gathering portraits Have you looked at Jane Stockton's embroidery page? I think that there's lots of links to blackwork stuff there. Or google for blackwork . (but then you've done that already, right?) Liadain Jussst a little OCD nah. I'm a little OCD. I wound up with a PhD because I wanted to identify my Trillium pictures! jerusha/ susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae
Quoting Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Haven't been much of anywhere yet, since must keep taking time out for Little Orphan Kitteh, but plan to do a lot of surfing later! L And I ain't even gonna get a degree out of all this! Conservation of Textiles .. ducking and running now, jerusha/ susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae -additionalinformation
The shift is part of the Filmer Collection at Platt Hall in Manchester. You can go online at http://www.manchestergalleries.org/the-collections and search the collection. You need to specify costume in the main section and linen (for material) and shift (for item type) in the detailed search. That will pull of a page on which this particular shift appears. It is dated to 1560-1580. Ginni Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8/13/08 3:41 PM Kewl! So far I haven't gone off the historical path with mine, unless this one hnas been re-worked at some point (though I'm sure museum would note that.) Why the slit, I wonder? In the neckline? Is the neck smaller that we would expect, or about what we see in portraits? And BTW, do you know the approximate year of this smock? Thanks for sharing! Liadain Gonna start saving up for that trip to England... THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO You get a wonderful view from the point of no return... wildernesse, the Outlands http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ginni Morgan Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 2:31 PM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae - additionalinformation In the meantime, I looked at the one photograph she gave me and it appears that the garment has a yoke with a square neck and a slit opening on the back side. The yoke is fully lined with the seam turned to the inside and what appears to be a line of topstitching worked along the edge just inside the neckline. I would guess the topstitching is only about a * or less from the edge. There is a band of blackwork (about 1 wide) that runs completely around the neck and does not show through on the facing. The sleeves have three bands of blackwork running the length of each sleeve. Ginni ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This communication with its contents may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. It is solely for the use of the intended recipient(s). Unauthorized interception, review, use or disclosure is prohibited and may violate applicable laws including the Electronic Communications Privacy Act. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender and destroy all copies of the communication. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae
That would be a great job, except for maybe the Taking Clothes Off Dead People thing...G And I prolly have to go to high school before they'll let me in college, alas. THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO You get a wonderful view from the point of no return... wildernesse, the Outlands http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Susan Farmer Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 3:19 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae Quoting Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Haven't been much of anywhere yet, since must keep taking time out for Little Orphan Kitteh, but plan to do a lot of surfing later! L And I ain't even gonna get a degree out of all this! Conservation of Textiles .. ducking and running now, jerusha/ susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae
Quoting Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]: That would be a great job, except for maybe the Taking Clothes Off Dead People thing...G And I prolly have to go to high school before they'll let me in college, alas. Yeah, well, There's the GED and there's the credit for life kinda thing. There's all kinda of ways. As an open access institution, we can't turn anybody away with a GED. They don't have to take ACT/SAT at all. Susan, that professor person - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle
They carry our books, and they just placed an e-mail order with us. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Carol Mitchell wrote: You mentioned that they only had two patterns in their line. I only know of one-the Regency wardrobe. What was the other? Thanks Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle
Re: [h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle Don't confuse the two businesses. Nancy's Sewing Basket on Queen Anne Ave North in Seattle is still open and a thriving business: a great resource for patterns, books, buttons, ribbons and all sorts of fabrics. It's La Mode Bagatelle that quit making patterns, their 2 patterns were the Regency Wardrobe and the Artistic Reform Tea Gown - the stock that was printed is still being sold by Ravenrook. http://www.ravenrook.com/bagatelle/ Agnes Message: 13 Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 15:38:04 -0700 From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed They carry our books, and they just placed an e-mail order with us. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Carol Mitchell wrote: You mentioned that they only had two patterns in their line. I only know of one-the Regency wardrobe. What was the other? Thanks Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle
Yes, sorry. Nancy's Sew Basket carries our books. One of the women who owns or used to own La Mode Bagatelle worked for Nancy's and has been in charge of placing orders to us for Nancy's. La Mode Bagatelle also carried them at a vintage clothing show or two, but has not for some years. Fran Agnes Gawne wrote: Re: [h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle Don't confuse the two businesses. Nancy's Sewing Basket on Queen Anne Ave North in Seattle is still open and a thriving business: a great resource for patterns, books, buttons, ribbons and all sorts of fabrics. It's La Mode Bagatelle that quit making patterns, their 2 patterns were the Regency Wardrobe and the Artistic Reform Tea Gown - the stock that was printed is still being sold by Ravenrook. http://www.ravenrook.com/bagatelle/ Agnes Message: 13 Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 15:38:04 -0700 From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed They carry our books, and they just placed an e-mail order with us. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Carol Mitchell wrote: You mentioned that they only had two patterns in their line. I only know of one-the Regency wardrobe. What was the other? Thanks Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume