Re: [h-cost] Techniques Used?

2008-08-13 Thread Frances Webb
Dear All,
 
I am a lurker and sporatic one at that, so I apologize if this has already been 
suggested--
 
I have sewn shaped pintucks by machine using a twin needle.  Below is a link 
to a child's dress using the technique.  By clicking on the small photos, you 
can see a larger version.
http://fwebb.com/children/budget.html
 
These are corded twin-needle pintucks.  They were stitched on white cotton 
batiste and simultaneously corded with pink pearl cotton which shadowed through 
the white batiste.
 
I have also stitched wavy and scalloped twin-needle pintucks successfully on 
silk dupioni and handkerchief linen.
 
For the first pintuck, trace the shape using a water-erasable marker or chalk 
pencil.  Follow your  shape.  At pivot points, stop with the needles down, lift 
the presser foot, gently pivot, then continue.  The needles twist slightly but 
straighten out when you begin sewing again.  For additional tucks, use the 
grooves in your pintuck foot just as you would for straight pintucks.
 
Twin-needle pintucks look different if they are stitched parallel to 
the selvage or from selvage to selvage.  You can also change the depth of the 
tuck by adjusting your needle tension.  My machine (Pfaff) has a little 
attachment that goes just in front of the pintuck foot to make the tucks deeper.
 
Have fun experimenting!  And please let me know if you have questions.
 
Thanks,
Frances in Virginia

--- On Tue, 8/12/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 07:34:41 -0700
From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: technique used?
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Probably, but in this case I think you'd have problems with the serger seam
showing through on the bottom.  The pin tucks appear larger than those made by
specialized feet on most machines  But the seam itself could be done with a
straight stitch...(but not too tight-might be too stiff)...and then pulled into
the scallop shape  by hand

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] Historic Textiles Examination from Burgos Cathedral, Madrid Spain

2008-08-13 Thread monica spence
This is fabulous! Thank you  both for sharing this.
Monica Spence

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 2:08 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Historic Textiles Examination from Burgos
Cathedral,Madrid Spain


http://www.middelaldercentret.dk/pdf/burgosrapport.pdf
 
My friend Camilla Louise Dahl sent this link to me to share.  Enjoy

Sg

Sorry if this is a repeat - it didn't appear to come through on H-costume.

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Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae

2008-08-13 Thread Frank A Thallas Jr
  Thanks!  I never thought of it before this morning, and now I HAVE to find
out as much as possible...am gleefully gathering portraits

Liadain
Jussst a little OCD

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 You get a wonderful view from the point of no return...
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Ginni Morgan
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 2:18 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae

A friend of mine was able to photograph the Elizaethan era smock at the
museum in Manchester last year.  I'll ask her and get back to the list.  

Ginni  


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Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae - additional information

2008-08-13 Thread Ginni Morgan
In the meantime, I looked at the one photograph she gave me and it
appears that the garment has a yoke with a square neck and a slit
opening on the back side.  The yoke is fully lined with the seam turned
to the inside and what appears to be a line of topstitching worked along
the edge just inside the neckline.  I would guess the topstitching is
only about a * or less from the edge.  There is a band of blackwork
(about 1 wide) that runs completely around the neck and does not show
through on the facing.  The sleeves have three bands of blackwork
running the length of each sleeve.


Ginni


 Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8/13/08 1:24 PM 
Has anyone on the list laid hands on an extant 16th-century
square-necked
ladies' smock?  If so, can you tell me how the neck is finished? 
Facing?
Applied needlework? Rolled hem?  Someone asked me, and I suddenly
realized I
have no basis in fact for how I do mine...

Liadain

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 You get a wonderful view from the point of no return...
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies 


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[h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle

2008-08-13 Thread Carol Mitchell
You mentioned that they only had two patterns in their line. I only know of 
one-the Regency wardrobe. What was the other?
Thanks
Carol

 Chicagoland Costumer's Guild www.chicostume.org  Costume 
Midwest http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumemidwest/ 

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Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae - additionalinformation

2008-08-13 Thread Frank A Thallas Jr
Kewl!  So far I haven't gone off the historical path with mine, unless
this one hnas been re-worked at some point (though I'm sure museum would
note that.)  Why the slit, I wonder?  In the neckline?  Is the neck smaller
that we would expect, or about what we see in portraits?  And BTW, do you
know the approximate year of this smock?

  Thanks for sharing!

Liadain
Gonna start saving up for that trip to England...

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 You get a wonderful view from the point of no return...
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Ginni Morgan
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 2:31 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae -
additionalinformation

In the meantime, I looked at the one photograph she gave me and it
appears that the garment has a yoke with a square neck and a slit
opening on the back side.  The yoke is fully lined with the seam turned
to the inside and what appears to be a line of topstitching worked along
the edge just inside the neckline.  I would guess the topstitching is
only about a * or less from the edge.  There is a band of blackwork
(about 1 wide) that runs completely around the neck and does not show
through on the facing.  The sleeves have three bands of blackwork
running the length of each sleeve.


Ginni



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Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae

2008-08-13 Thread Susan Farmer

Quoting Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


  Thanks!  I never thought of it before this morning, and now I HAVE to find
out as much as possible...am gleefully gathering portraits


Have you looked at Jane Stockton's embroidery page?  I think that  
there's lots of links to blackwork stuff there.  Or google for  
blackwork . (but then you've done that already, right?)



Liadain
Jussst a little OCD


nah.  I'm a little OCD.  I wound up with a PhD because I wanted to  
identify my Trillium pictures!


jerusha/ susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae

2008-08-13 Thread Frank A Thallas Jr
  Haven't been much of anywhere yet, since must keep taking time out for
Little Orphan Kitteh, but plan to do a lot of surfing later!

L
And I ain't even gonna get a degree out of all this!

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 You get a wonderful view from the point of no return...
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Susan Farmer
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 2:44 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae

Quoting Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

   Thanks!  I never thought of it before this morning, and now I HAVE to
find
 out as much as possible...am gleefully gathering portraits

Have you looked at Jane Stockton's embroidery page?  I think that  
there's lots of links to blackwork stuff there.  Or google for  
blackwork . (but then you've done that already, right?)

 Liadain
 Jussst a little OCD

nah.  I'm a little OCD.  I wound up with a PhD because I wanted to  
identify my Trillium pictures!

jerusha/ susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae

2008-08-13 Thread Susan Farmer

Quoting Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


  Haven't been much of anywhere yet, since must keep taking time out for
Little Orphan Kitteh, but plan to do a lot of surfing later!

L
And I ain't even gonna get a degree out of all this!



Conservation of Textiles ..

ducking and running now,
jerusha/ susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae -additionalinformation

2008-08-13 Thread Ginni Morgan
The shift is part of the Filmer Collection at Platt Hall in Manchester.  You 
can go online at http://www.manchestergalleries.org/the-collections  and search 
the collection.  You need to specify costume in the main section and linen 
(for material) and shift (for item type) in the detailed search.  That will 
pull of a page on which this particular shift appears.  It is dated to 
1560-1580.

Ginni

 Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8/13/08 3:41 PM 
Kewl!  So far I haven't gone off the historical path with mine, unless
this one hnas been re-worked at some point (though I'm sure museum would
note that.)  Why the slit, I wonder?  In the neckline?  Is the neck smaller
that we would expect, or about what we see in portraits?  And BTW, do you
know the approximate year of this smock?

  Thanks for sharing!

Liadain
Gonna start saving up for that trip to England...

THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 You get a wonderful view from the point of no return...
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Ginni Morgan
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 2:31 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae -
additionalinformation

In the meantime, I looked at the one photograph she gave me and it
appears that the garment has a yoke with a square neck and a slit
opening on the back side.  The yoke is fully lined with the seam turned
to the inside and what appears to be a line of topstitching worked along
the edge just inside the neckline.  I would guess the topstitching is
only about a * or less from the edge.  There is a band of blackwork
(about 1 wide) that runs completely around the neck and does not show
through on the facing.  The sleeves have three bands of blackwork
running the length of each sleeve.


Ginni



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Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae

2008-08-13 Thread Frank A Thallas Jr
  That would be a great job, except for maybe the Taking Clothes Off Dead
People thing...G
   And I prolly have to go to high school before they'll let me in college,
alas.



THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO
 You get a wonderful view from the point of no return...
wildernesse, the Outlands 
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Susan Farmer
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 3:19 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae

Quoting Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

   Haven't been much of anywhere yet, since must keep taking time out for
 Little Orphan Kitteh, but plan to do a lot of surfing later!

 L
 And I ain't even gonna get a degree out of all this!


Conservation of Textiles ..

ducking and running now,
jerusha/ susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae

2008-08-13 Thread Susan Farmer

Quoting Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


  That would be a great job, except for maybe the Taking Clothes Off Dead
People thing...G
   And I prolly have to go to high school before they'll let me in college,
alas.


Yeah, well,  There's the GED and there's the credit for life kinda  
thing.  There's all kinda of ways.  As an open access institution, we  
can't turn anybody away with a GED.  They don't have to take ACT/SAT  
at all.


Susan, that professor person
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College
Division of Science and Math
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle

2008-08-13 Thread Lavolta Press

They carry our books, and they just placed an e-mail order with us.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Carol Mitchell wrote:

You mentioned that they only had two patterns in their line. I only know of 
one-the Regency wardrobe. What was the other?
Thanks
Carol

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Re: [h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle

2008-08-13 Thread Agnes Gawne

Re: [h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle

Don't confuse the two businesses.

Nancy's Sewing Basket on Queen Anne Ave North in Seattle is still open and a 
thriving business: a great resource for patterns, books, buttons, ribbons 
and all sorts of fabrics.


It's La Mode Bagatelle that quit making patterns, their 2 patterns were the 
Regency Wardrobe and the Artistic Reform Tea Gown - the stock that was 
printed is still being sold by Ravenrook. 
http://www.ravenrook.com/bagatelle/



Agnes


Message: 13
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 15:38:04 -0700
From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

They carry our books, and they just placed an e-mail order with us.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Carol Mitchell wrote:
You mentioned that they only had two patterns in their line. I only know 
of one-the Regency wardrobe. What was the other?

Thanks
Carol





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Re: [h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle

2008-08-13 Thread Lavolta Press
Yes, sorry. Nancy's Sew Basket carries our books.  One of the women who 
owns or used to own La Mode Bagatelle worked for Nancy's and has been in 
charge of placing orders to us for Nancy's.  La Mode Bagatelle also 
carried them at a vintage clothing show or two, but has not for some years.


Fran

Agnes Gawne wrote:

Re: [h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle

Don't confuse the two businesses.

Nancy's Sewing Basket on Queen Anne Ave North in Seattle is still open 
and a thriving business: a great resource for patterns, books, buttons, 
ribbons and all sorts of fabrics.


It's La Mode Bagatelle that quit making patterns, their 2 patterns were 
the Regency Wardrobe and the Artistic Reform Tea Gown - the stock that 
was printed is still being sold by Ravenrook. 
http://www.ravenrook.com/bagatelle/



Agnes


Message: 13
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 15:38:04 -0700
From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nancy's in Seattle-La Mode Bagatelle
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

They carry our books, and they just placed an e-mail order with us.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Carol Mitchell wrote:
You mentioned that they only had two patterns in their line. I only 
know of one-the Regency wardrobe. What was the other?

Thanks
Carol





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