Re: [h-cost] What to name a dressmaker's dummy

2010-03-04 Thread R Lloyd Mitchell
My 'guy' is AlCid His most recent outing was to do battle at the Heart Fund 
Ball modeling the Andy Worhal Cambell Soup Tee!
Kathleen
-Original Message-
From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com
Sent 3/3/2010 2:29:04 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] What to name a dressmaker's dummyKathy,
Here's a project I can get into: helping you name your dummy.  I'm
partial to the classics such as the Three Graces, Euphrosnia (my
dummy's name), Thalia  Aglaia. My guy dummy is Adonis, for his mythic
youth  beauty.
I'm sure others can make excellent suggestions,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com
On Wed, Mar 3, 2010 at 11:00 AM,  h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote:
 From: Kathy Hoover kath...@gmail.com
 My dummy (I'm ever-hoping that a flash of inspiration will bring her
 an appropriate/creative/amusing name--but alas, she remains headless
 and anonymous) is presently naked--
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Re: [h-cost] Experiences with this company?

2010-03-04 Thread Debloughcostumes
 
I ordered some buttons from them last year.
 
We had problems contacting them via e-mail, but had no problems contacting  
them over the phone (which was obviously in the evening allowing for the 
time  difference from the UK).
 
The buttons (naval ones) were delivered quite a bit later than they said  
they would be, and I'd had to put a temporary 'they'll do set on the uniform  
they were for, but when they did arrive they were very good.
 
 
Debbie
 
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 04/03/2010 04:12:04 GMT Standard Time,  
h-costume-requ...@indra.com writes:

On Wed,  Mar 3, 2010 at 10:42, Hanna Zickermann h.zickerm...@gmx.de  
wrote:
 Good afternoon,

 I have placed an order with  this company http://www.militaryheritage.com/
 last weekend. So far, I  only got an automatic respond e-mail. I tried to
 call them, but this  didn?t work either as they wanted me to confirm my 
call
 by entering a  10-digit-phone number (which we don?t have in Germany). Do 
I
 need to  worry? I gave them my credit card details...

 Best,
  Hanna




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Re: [h-cost] what to name a dressmaker's dummy

2010-03-04 Thread AVCHASE
Mine, presently wearing only a Viking helmet over its stump, had no name. It is 
a donated dial-a-size that shall be from now on, Breezy.

in the high boonies of Central Texas


PeoplePC Online
A better way to Internet
http://www.peoplepc.com
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[h-cost] Question: Regency trains?

2010-03-04 Thread A. Thurman
I'm looking to make my first (non-fantasy-tinged) Regency gown, out of
white on white windowpane cotton.

I am finding that during my target time period (1800-1810) many (all?)
dresses had a train, even for day.

I'm considering eliminating this to reduce wear and tear (it's fine
white fabric after all), but if I choose to make one, what can I do to
minimize damage? Is it documented to include a lining, or loop the
train up, or detach it in some way? Arnold and Bradfield aren't
showing much so far, except for looped-up riding gowns, which isn't
the style I'm after.

Thoughts?

And thanks in advance,

Allison T.
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Re: [h-cost] Question: Regency trains?

2010-03-04 Thread annbwass

Allison--many, but not all, day dresses had trains, and, at least in the US, 
trains were out of style for day dresses by 1805.  (I seem to remember a quote 
that they were out of style in England by then, too, but I can't remember the 
exact reference for that one.)  The train would have been cut as an extension 
of the skirt, so not detachable.  I think I would go without, if I were you, 
considering the extreme hassle it would be in a white cotton.

Ann Wass


-Original Message-
From: A. Thurman athur...@gmail.com
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Thu, Mar 4, 2010 1:17 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Question: Regency trains?


I'm looking to make my first (non-fantasy-tinged) Regency gown, out of
hite on white windowpane cotton.
I am finding that during my target time period (1800-1810) many (all?)
resses had a train, even for day.
I'm considering eliminating this to reduce wear and tear (it's fine
hite fabric after all), but if I choose to make one, what can I do to
inimize damage? Is it documented to include a lining, or loop the
rain up, or detach it in some way? Arnold and Bradfield aren't
howing much so far, except for looped-up riding gowns, which isn't
he style I'm after.
Thoughts?
And thanks in advance,
Allison T.
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=
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Re: [h-cost] Question: Regency trains?

2010-03-04 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker
I recently read (will try to hunt down the source, so this isn't official) 
that they normally wore the train over one arm.  The point was to bring the 
skirt close to the legs to emphasize the nearly naked look.


So trains didn't trail, they helped you look naughty.  ;-)

And they stayed clean!  The few trained muslin dresses I've seen had 
suspiciously unstained trains.  I'd wondered how the museums had gotten the 
mud out without damaging the fabric.


Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns, Renaissance 
to Victorian

  Now available:
 Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, 
Definitions  Uses

  www.mantua-maker.com
  http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com



I'm looking to make my first (non-fantasy-tinged) Regency gown, out of
white on white windowpane cotton.

I am finding that during my target time period (1800-1810) many (all?)
dresses had a train, even for day.

I'm considering eliminating this to reduce wear and tear (it's fine
white fabric after all), but if I choose to make one, what can I do to
minimize damage? Is it documented to include a lining, or loop the
train up, or detach it in some way? Arnold and Bradfield aren't
showing much so far, except for looped-up riding gowns, which isn't
the style I'm after.

Thoughts?

And thanks in advance,

Allison T. 


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Re: [h-cost] Question: Regency trains?

2010-03-04 Thread Käthe Barrows
I think I would go without, if I were you, considering the extreme hassle it 
would be in a white cotton.

And the fact that nobody seems to know how to behave around a train,
and if it ever hits the floor somebody will step on it.

-- 
Carolyn Kayta Barrows
--
“The future is already here, it is just unevenly distributed.”
-William Gibson
--
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Re: [h-cost] Question: Regency trains?

2010-03-04 Thread annbwass


I recently read (will try to hunt down the source, so this isn't official) that 
they normally wore the train over one arm. The point was to bring the skirt 
close to the legs to emphasize the nearly naked look. 
 
So trains didn't trail, they helped you look naughty. ;-) 
 
And they stayed clean! The few trained muslin dresses I've seen had 
suspiciously unstained trains. I'd wondered how the museums had gotten the mud 
out without damaging the fabric. 



I have seen one extant dress, almost certainly a day dress (cotton print, bib 
front) that has a train.  That train is not long enough to drape over the arm.

Ann Wass





-Original Message-
From: Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker d...@mantua-maker.com
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Thu, Mar 4, 2010 2:23 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question: Regency trains?


I recently read (will try to hunt down the source, so this isn't official) that 
they normally wore the train over one arm. The point was to bring the skirt 
close to the legs to emphasize the nearly naked look. 
 
So trains didn't trail, they helped you look naughty. ;-) 
 
And they stayed clean! The few trained muslin dresses I've seen had 
suspiciously unstained trains. I'd wondered how the museums had gotten the mud 
out without damaging the fabric. 
 
Happy sewing, 
  Deb Salisbury 
  The Mantua-Maker 
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns, Renaissance to 
Victorian 
  Now available: 
  Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, Definitions  
Uses 
  www.mantua-maker.com 
  http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com 
 
 
I'm looking to make my first (non-fantasy-tinged) Regency gown, out of 
white on white windowpane cotton. 
 
I am finding that during my target time period (1800-1810) many (all?) 
dresses had a train, even for day. 
 
I'm considering eliminating this to reduce wear and tear (it's fine 
white fabric after all), but if I choose to make one, what can I do to 
minimize damage? Is it documented to include a lining, or loop the 
train up, or detach it in some way? Arnold and Bradfield aren't 
showing much so far, except for looped-up riding gowns, which isn't 
the style I'm after. 
 
Thoughts? 
 
And thanks in advance, 
 
Allison T.  
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Re: [h-cost] Experiences with this company?

2010-03-04 Thread Hanna Zickermann

Thank you all,

I am very much relieved to hear that. I called 
the company with my mobile phone (which worked 
for some reasons, but thank you Rachel for your 
kind offer!) and left a message on the answering 
machine. I didn´t know it was such a small 
company, so I am fine with a bit of waiting!


Thank you!

Hanna

At 13:37 04.03.2010, you wrote:


I ordered some buttons from them last year.

We had problems contacting them via e-mail, but had no problems contacting
them over the phone (which was obviously in the evening allowing for the
time  difference from the UK).

The buttons (naval ones) were delivered quite a bit later than they said
they would be, and I'd had to put a temporary 'they'll do set on the uniform
they were for, but when they did arrive they were very good.


Debbie






In a message dated 04/03/2010 04:12:04 GMT Standard Time,
h-costume-requ...@indra.com writes:

On Wed,  Mar 3, 2010 at 10:42, Hanna Zickermann h.zickerm...@gmx.de
wrote:
 Good afternoon,

 I have placed an order with  this company http://www.militaryheritage.com/
 last weekend. So far, I  only got an automatic respond e-mail. I tried to
 call them, but this  didn?t work either as they wanted me to confirm my
call
 by entering a  10-digit-phone number (which we don?t have in Germany). Do
I
 need to  worry? I gave them my credit card details...

 Best,
  Hanna




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[h-cost] Odd Chatter

2010-03-04 Thread Stacey Dunleavy
I don't know if this is OT, but I was asked to chat with someone who is
absolutely obsessed with boys in dresses.  I was approached as a member of
an inactive Yahoo sewing group - I assumed the person just wanted to talk
construction and embroidery.  She (there is a female persona with this
chatter) has a link to an entire database of Victorian boys in frilly gowns,
interspersed with some contemporary kilts and third world boys in sarongs.
She claims to be Spanish, and her 8 year-old son is interested in wearing
that style.

It just seems to be a little fishy to me, and I wonder if this is a strange
fetishist using an avatar of a seamstress mother.

Any opinions?
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Re: [h-cost] Question: Regency trains?

2010-03-04 Thread Hope Greenberg
Sounds lovely. Answering the question of what to do with a train, both 
in terms of carrying it and in terms of protecting it, is a challenge. 
Here are some thoughts:


For the gowns just before 1800 that were fuller, women are shown 
twisting the train up behind their backs, holding a bit of it under 
their arms, or pulling the fullness of the skirt around towards the 
front. Here are some images from Heideloff's:


http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1795-03-0005.jpg
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1795-07-0005.jpg
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1795-10-0005.jpg
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1795-11-0002.jpg
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1797-08-0002.jpg
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1798-03-0005.jpg
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1799-05-0002.jpg
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1799-10-0002.jpg
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1800-10-0005.jpg

On the other hand, the fashionable ladies promenading at Kensington 
Gardens in 1804 allowed their trains to flow behind them, so elegantly. 
Notice, however, that their petticoats/undergowns also appear to be 
trained. This might be a clue as to how to protect the overgown from 
excessive soiling. A easy to wash plain cotton undergown beneath a 
diaphonous overgown would work well.

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/1804-fashionsoflondon-promenade-Kensingtongardens.jpg

By 1810 trains all but disappear, and even before that there are many 
images of gowns that have no trains.


And, as an aside, if making a formal gown for evening, be sure to 
differentiate between 'ball dress' and 'evening wear.' I have yet to 
find an image of a post-1810 ball gown that has a train. Up to and 
around 1810 there are plenty of 'full dress' or 'evening wear' or 'opera 
dress' gowns that do, but ball gowns, no.
Ball dress: 
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/1809-wu-ackermann-balldress.png
Evening full dress: 
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/1809-white-washington.jpg


By the way, I would be suspicious of claims that all women wrapped their 
gowns over their arms to pull them tight. SOunds like a modern 
interpretation!


- Hope
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Re: [h-cost] Odd Chatter

2010-03-04 Thread Tracy Thallas
  Hmmm.  I'd approach with caution, to be sure... while this could be
completely innocent (maybe just because her son wants to dress this way?) I
can easily see it as some sort of kiddie-porn as well.
Sigh.  Ain't NOTHIN' uncorrupted any more

   There is a photo of my grandfather c.1897, age about 2, scowling mightily
from beneath his beautiful blond curls  while wearing a really lovely frilly
little dress and button boots.  I think my sister has it now.  Thanks for
the reminder, I'm going to nag her to find it!!!

Liadain

You get a wonderful view from the point of no return... 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies
http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com
http://practicalblackwork.com   


-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Stacey Dunleavy
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 2:37 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Odd Chatter

I don't know if this is OT, but I was asked to chat with someone who is
absolutely obsessed with boys in dresses.  I was approached as a member of
an inactive Yahoo sewing group - I assumed the person just wanted to talk
construction and embroidery.  She (there is a female persona with this
chatter) has a link to an entire database of Victorian boys in frilly gowns,
interspersed with some contemporary kilts and third world boys in sarongs.
She claims to be Spanish, and her 8 year-old son is interested in wearing
that style.

It just seems to be a little fishy to me, and I wonder if this is a strange
fetishist using an avatar of a seamstress mother.

Any opinions?
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Re: [h-cost] Odd Chatter

2010-03-04 Thread cw15147-hcost00
I strictly avoid chat invites with people I don't know. Can't tell who they 
REALLY are or what the heck they REALLY want, and this iffy-er than any 
uninvited chats I've ever gotten.

Just my two (paranoid) pence.



Claudine



- Original Message 
 From: Stacey Dunleavy anastas...@gmail.com
 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
 Sent: Thu, March 4, 2010 1:36:56 PM
 Subject: [h-cost] Odd Chatter
 
 I don't know if this is OT, but I was asked to chat with someone who is
 absolutely obsessed with boys in dresses.  I was approached as a member of
 an inactive Yahoo sewing group - I assumed the person just wanted to talk
 construction and embroidery.  She (there is a female persona with this
 chatter) has a link to an entire database of Victorian boys in frilly gowns,
 interspersed with some contemporary kilts and third world boys in sarongs.
 She claims to be Spanish, and her 8 year-old son is interested in wearing
 that style.
 
 It just seems to be a little fishy to me, and I wonder if this is a strange
 fetishist using an avatar of a seamstress mother.
 
 Any opinions?
 ___
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 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Re: [h-cost] Question: Regency trains?

2010-03-04 Thread Lavolta Press




And, as an aside, if making a formal gown for evening, be sure to
differentiate between 'ball dress' and 'evening wear.' I have yet to
find an image of a post-1810 ball gown that has a train. Up to and
around 1810 there are plenty of 'full dress' or 'evening wear' or 'opera
dress' gowns that do, but ball gowns, no.
Ball dress:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/1809-wu-ackermann-balldress.png
Evening full dress:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/1809-white-washington.jpg



Generally, I agree with you that early 19th-century ball gowns were 
often shorter than other evening dresses.  However, Jane Austen does 
interestingly say in _Northanger Abbey_ that Catherine and her friend 
Isabella called each other by their Christian name, were always arm in 
arm when they walked, pinned up each other's train for the dance, and 
were not to be divided in the set.


Fran
Lavolta Press
Books on historic clothing, including:
The Lady's Stratagem: A Repository of 1820s Directions for the Toilet, 
Manuta-Making, Stay-Making, Millinery  Etiquette

http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Re: [h-cost] Question: Regency trains?

2010-03-04 Thread Hope Greenberg
It is an interesting question, isn't it? My take on that phrase has 
always been that when she wrote Northanger Abbey in 1798-1799, pinning 
up a train would have been necessary, particularly in the crowded 
assembly rooms at Bath. It would have still been an accurate statement 
when Austen revised the manuscript for potential publication in 1803. 
The manuscript was revised again just before it's actual (and 
posthumous) publication in 1817, but it's hard to imagine that anyone 
would have a train on any gown by that time, so I had always assumed 
that Austen simply left the earlier phrase stand during that last 
revision. It captures Catherine and Isabella's relationship so 
beautifully that I'm glad she left it in...


- Hope



Lavolta Press wrote:


Generally, I agree with you that early 19th-century ball gowns were 
often shorter than other evening dresses.  However, Jane Austen does 
interestingly say in _Northanger Abbey_ that Catherine and her friend 
Isabella called each other by their Christian name, were always arm 
in arm when they walked, pinned up each other's train for the dance, 
and were not to be divided in the set.



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[h-cost] Piece of vintage baleen stay

2010-03-04 Thread Wicked Frau
Hi all, I am looking for a piece of vintage baleen stay. I had a piece and
have lost it.  I use it in my lectures to show people what it really was
like.  If anyone knows of anyone willing to part with a piece I would be
very grateful - and willing to pay for it.

Saragrace
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Re: [h-cost] Piece of vintage baleen stay

2010-03-04 Thread SPaterson
I know in Canada you can be gifted with baleen, but there may be issues in 
the selling/buying of it (unless already in a garment) - leastwise it was 
when I was on the hunt for it over 10 years ago..you may have better luck at 
your friendliest costume museum.


Bess Darnley / Sarah Paterson

- Original Message - 


Hi all, I am looking for a piece of vintage baleen stay. I had a piece and
have lost it.  I use it in my lectures to show people what it really was
like.  If anyone knows of anyone willing to part with a piece I would be
very grateful - and willing to pay for it.

Saragrace
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Re: [h-cost] Piece of vintage baleen stay

2010-03-04 Thread Judy Mitchell
I know someone in the US who bought a long chunk off ebay. fascinating 
stuff. No, it wasn't vintage. I don't believe.

-Judy Mitchell

SPaterson wrote:
I know in Canada you can be gifted with baleen, but there may be issues 
in the selling/buying of it (unless already in a garment) - leastwise it 
was when I was on the hunt for it over 10 years ago..you may have better 
luck at your friendliest costume museum.


Bess Darnley / Sarah Paterson

- Original Message -
Hi all, I am looking for a piece of vintage baleen stay. I had a piece 
and

have lost it.  I use it in my lectures to show people what it really was
like.  If anyone knows of anyone willing to part with a piece I would be
very grateful - and willing to pay for it.

Saragrace

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Re: [h-cost] Question: Regency trains?

2010-03-04 Thread AnnBWass
 
In a message dated 3/4/2010 5:55:30 PM Eastern Standard Time,  
hope.greenb...@uvm.edu writes:

in 1817,  but it's hard to imagine that anyone 
would have a train on any gown by  that time


Rosalie Stier Calvert, who lived in Prince George's County, Maryland,  
received clothing from her sister in Antwerp for her daughter's  introduction 
into society in 1817.  I've not checked the original  French of her letter, 
but The English translation is that Rosalie regrets  that her full-dress blue 
gown is trailing, as no one was wearing them like  that here.  I believe 
that means it has a train, and they must still have  been fashionable on the 
Continent at that time. 
 
Ann Wass
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Re: [h-cost] Piece of vintage baleen stay

2010-03-04 Thread Lavolta Press
Victorian bodices often have baleen stays. You can probably buy a really 
damaged one off eBay and take out the bones. The bones I have, have all 
become brittle with age, but if you want baleen, it's pretty easy to 
find that way.


Fran
Lavolta Press
Books on Historic Clothing
http:///www.lavoltapress.com

On 3/4/2010 4:10 PM, Judy Mitchell wrote:

I know someone in the US who bought a long chunk off ebay. fascinating
stuff. No, it wasn't vintage. I don't believe.
-Judy Mitchell

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Re: [h-cost] Question: Regency trains?

2010-03-04 Thread A. Thurman
Just wanted to thank everyone for their replies. Hope, thank you for
the images (your post below), and the difference between ball and
opera gowns. FWIW, I'm going for a basic day gown that might I might
accessorize in future for evening, if possible.

Based on your responses. I think I'm going to leave off the train - I
am a klutz walking in long skirts at the best of times, and it might
be a modern conceit, but I have no interest in walking around holding
up my train or bunching it under my arms :P Perhaps I'll create an
open robe or similar to dress it up, and IT can have the train!

Allison T.

 Message: 6
 Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2010 16:47:09 -0500
 From: Hope Greenberg hope.greenb...@uvm.edu
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question: Regency trains?
 Message-ID: 4b902a5d.20...@uvm.edu
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 Sounds lovely. Answering the question of what to do with a train, both
 in terms of carrying it and in terms of protecting it, is a challenge.
 Here are some thoughts:

 For the gowns just before 1800 that were fuller, women are shown
 twisting the train up behind their backs, holding a bit of it under
 their arms, or pulling the fullness of the skirt around towards the
 front. Here are some images from Heideloff's:

 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1795-03-0005.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1795-07-0005.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1795-10-0005.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1795-11-0002.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1797-08-0002.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1798-03-0005.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1799-05-0002.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1799-10-0002.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1800-10-0005.jpg

 On the other hand, the fashionable ladies promenading at Kensington
 Gardens in 1804 allowed their trains to flow behind them, so elegantly.
 Notice, however, that their petticoats/undergowns also appear to be
 trained. This might be a clue as to how to protect the overgown from
 excessive soiling. A easy to wash plain cotton undergown beneath a
 diaphonous overgown would work well.
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/1804-fashionsoflondon-promenade-Kensingtongardens.jpg

 By 1810 trains all but disappear, and even before that there are many
 images of gowns that have no trains.

 And, as an aside, if making a formal gown for evening, be sure to
 differentiate between 'ball dress' and 'evening wear.' I have yet to
 find an image of a post-1810 ball gown that has a train. Up to and
 around 1810 there are plenty of 'full dress' or 'evening wear' or 'opera
 dress' gowns that do, but ball gowns, no.
 Ball dress:
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/1809-wu-ackermann-balldress.png
 Evening full dress:
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/1809-white-washington.jpg

 By the way, I would be suspicious of claims that all women wrapped their
 gowns over their arms to pull them tight. SOunds like a modern
 interpretation!

 - Hope

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Re: [h-cost] Question: Regency trains?

2010-03-04 Thread Käthe Barrows
 I believe
 that means it has a train, and they must still have  been fashionable on the
 Continent at that time.

Or maybe, if someone gave uit to her, it's an older trained dress that
was out of fashion and the donor thought it could be remodeled by the
recipient.

-- 
Carolyn Kayta Barrows
--
“The future is already here, it is just unevenly distributed.”
-William Gibson
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Re: [h-cost] Question: Regency trains?

2010-03-04 Thread Paula Praxis

This post seems to have lots of images to show what you are talking about;  
however I can not access any of them - I ge a forbiden note at the top of 
every page.  Is there another way to see these images?

 

Paula

 


 
 Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 16:47:09 -0500
 From: hope.greenb...@uvm.edu
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question: Regency trains?
 
 Sounds lovely. Answering the question of what to do with a train, both 
 in terms of carrying it and in terms of protecting it, is a challenge. 
 Here are some thoughts:
 
 For the gowns just before 1800 that were fuller, women are shown 
 twisting the train up behind their backs, holding a bit of it under 
 their arms, or pulling the fullness of the skirt around towards the 
 front. Here are some images from Heideloff's:
 
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1795-03-0005.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1795-07-0005.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1795-10-0005.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1795-11-0002.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1797-08-0002.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1798-03-0005.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1799-05-0002.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1799-10-0002.jpg
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/heideloff-1800-10-0005.jpg
 
 On the other hand, the fashionable ladies promenading at Kensington 
 Gardens in 1804 allowed their trains to flow behind them, so elegantly. 
 Notice, however, that their petticoats/undergowns also appear to be 
 trained. This might be a clue as to how to protect the overgown from 
 excessive soiling. A easy to wash plain cotton undergown beneath a 
 diaphonous overgown would work well.
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/1804-fashionsoflondon-promenade-Kensingtongardens.jpg
 
 By 1810 trains all but disappear, and even before that there are many 
 images of gowns that have no trains.
 
 And, as an aside, if making a formal gown for evening, be sure to 
 differentiate between 'ball dress' and 'evening wear.' I have yet to 
 find an image of a post-1810 ball gown that has a train. Up to and 
 around 1810 there are plenty of 'full dress' or 'evening wear' or 'opera 
 dress' gowns that do, but ball gowns, no.
 Ball dress: 
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/1809-wu-ackermann-balldress.png
 Evening full dress: 
 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/1800train/1809-white-washington.jpg
 
 By the way, I would be suspicious of claims that all women wrapped their 
 gowns over their arms to pull them tight. SOunds like a modern 
 interpretation!
 
 - Hope
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