Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

2012-12-03 Thread Danielle Nunn-Weinberg

Greetings,

Wow!  That sounds like quite the project you have there.  I haven't a 
clue about peasant costumes, sorry.  But one thing you might want to 
think about is, colour was used a lot more that it would appear 
now.  The statues pretty much appear to be a consistent mud shade, 
right?  Well, I was watching one documentary about these statutes (I 
admit it, the things fascinate me), and apparently they used to be 
painted incredibly colourfully but the paint didn't survive time as 
well as the terracotta.  There are only traces of the paint left, not 
enough that would show up on camera, so a German (or at least I think 
it was German) museum recreated one of the statues and then using the 
traces of paint found on it, painted as it would have been when it 
was buried and put it on display.  Most people are so blown away by 
the garishness of the colours they have difficulty believing that is 
what it would have looked like.  So after my long tangent...don't 
write off colours for the peasant kinds, because if those statues 
were anything to go by, apparently there wasn't a colour they didn't 
like in any combination.  LOL!  Just about enough to make your eyes 
bleed - as bad as the Greeks!


Cheers,
Danielle

At 08:18 PM 12/1/2012, you wrote:

...or Tales of a Band Mom.

This year's winter percussion piece is Terra Cotta Warriors and 
first order of business... peasant costumes for kids in the pit 
(stationary instruments like xylophones, chimes, etc.)


What the heck did Chinese peasants wear in 3rd century BC?  Our band 
director is proposing simple wrap-style tunics (like short kimonos) 
and scrub pants torn below the knee -- both dyed in earthy 
colors.  Semi-accurate?  Horrible?  Are conical hats appropriate? 
--although I can see them getting knocked off.  I'm clueless, and 
can find neither image nor description.


Part II will be terracotta soldier costumes to be worn by very 
active teenagers with drums, but I need to deal with the peasants first.


Help?



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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

2012-12-03 Thread WorkroomButtons.com
Thanks!  I think I found the statue you're describing:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PGdp__poAtM/T-LYMC-WgCI/L8Q/Nld5-rVqp7c/s1600/scan0004.jpg

You're right -- pretty garish... One does wonder what kind of dyes might have 
been used by Chinese peasants.  This may be irrelevant, but I read that 
European peasants' clothing was actually quite colorful, and that they 
frequently re-dyed them as the natural colors tended to fade.

Wow!  That sounds like quite the project you have there.  I haven't a clue 
about peasant costumes, sorry.  But one thing you might want to think about is, 
colour was used a lot more that it would appear now.  The statues pretty much 
appear to be a consistent mud shade, right?  Well, I was watching one 
documentary about these statutes (I admit it, the things fascinate me), and 
apparently they used to be painted incredibly colourfully but the paint didn't 
survive time as well as the terracotta.  There are only traces of the paint 
left, not enough that would show up on camera, so a German (or at least I think 
it was German) museum recreated one of the statues and then using the traces of 
paint found on it, painted as it would have been when it was buried and put 
it on display.  Most people are so blown away by the garishness of the colours 
they have difficulty believing that is what it would have looked like.  So 
after my long tangent...don't
 write off colours for the peasant kinds, because if those statues were 
anything to go by, apparently there wasn't a colour they didn't like in any 
combination.  LOL!  Just about enough to make your eyes bleed - as bad as the 
Greeks!

Cheers,
Danielle
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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

2012-12-03 Thread annbwass



Thanks!  I think I found the statue you're describing:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PGdp__poAtM/T-LYMC-WgCI/L8Q/Nld5-rVqp7c/s1600/scan0004.jpg

You're right -- pretty garish... One does wonder what kind of dyes might have 
been used by Chinese peasants.  This may be irrelevant, but I read that 
European 
peasants' clothing was actually quite colorful, and that they frequently 
re-dyed 
them as the natural colors tended to fade.

That is indeed interesting--I knew about the Greek statues, but not the 
warriors. But yes, the statues were colored with pigments--clothing would have 
to have been, in general, colored differently. So still raises the question 
whether the statues were an actual reflection of reality.


As to peasants' clothing--again, depends on the dyes available, as well as the 
labor to use them. The ubiquitous blue indigo is native to India (they used 
woad, which contains the same dye, in early Western Europe). Did the Chinese 
have indigo or woad? All kinds of plants give various yellows--did they use 
them? I don't even know if the peasants wore wool, cotton, flax, or some other 
bast fiber (ramie, also called China grass, does grow in parts of China.) 
This is relevant because the bast fibers, and, to a lesser extent cotton, are 
in general more difficult to dye than wool.


But China is such a massive territory that I'm sure what was worn varied 
greatly with both place and time.


Sorry, again, none of this helps WorkroomButtons, does it?


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: WorkroomButtons.com westvillagedrap...@yahoo.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Mon, Dec 3, 2012 6:56 am
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?


Thanks!  I think I found the statue you're describing:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PGdp__poAtM/T-LYMC-WgCI/L8Q/Nld5-rVqp7c/s1600/scan0004.jpg

You're right -- pretty garish... One does wonder what kind of dyes might have 
been used by Chinese peasants.  This may be irrelevant, but I read that 
European 
peasants' clothing was actually quite colorful, and that they frequently 
re-dyed 
them as the natural colors tended to fade.

Wow!  That sounds like quite the project you have there.  I haven't a clue 
about 
peasant costumes, sorry.  But one thing you might want to think about is, 
colour 
was used a lot more that it would appear now.  The statues pretty much appear 
to 
be a consistent mud shade, right?  Well, I was watching one documentary about 
these statutes (I admit it, the things fascinate me), and apparently they used 
to be painted incredibly colourfully but the paint didn't survive time as well 
as the terracotta.  There are only traces of the paint left, not enough that 
would show up on camera, so a German (or at least I think it was German) museum 
recreated one of the statues and then using the traces of paint found on it, 
painted as it would have been when it was buried and put it on display.  Most 
people are so blown away by the garishness of the colours they have difficulty 
believing that is what it would have looked like.  So after my long 
tangent...don't
 write off colours for the peasant kinds, because if those statues were 
anything 
to go by, apparently there wasn't a colour they didn't like in any combination. 
 
LOL!  Just about enough to make your eyes bleed - as bad as the Greeks!

Cheers,
Danielle
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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

2012-12-03 Thread WorkroomButtons.com
On the contrary; it's very helpful!  I hadn't even thought about cotton vs. 
linen vs. wool vs. ?

Hopefully, I can learn a little more about cheap clothing dyes commonly used in 
Ancient China.  According to Wikipedia, indigo has been used in China for 
centuries...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indigo_dye

At some point, though, I have to stop the interesting research and just come up 
with something!

With thanks,
Dede O'Hair (sorry, I thought my real name was coming up automatically)

That is indeed interesting--I knew about the Greek statues, but not the 
warriors. But yes, the statues were colored with pigments--clothing would have 
to have been, in general, colored differently. So still raises the question 
whether the statues were an actual reflection of reality.


As to peasants' clothing--again, depends on the dyes available, as well as the 
labor to use them. The ubiquitous blue indigo is native to India (they used 
woad, which contains the same dye, in early Western Europe). Did the Chinese 
have indigo or woad? All kinds of plants give various yellows--did they use 
them? I don't even know if the peasants wore wool, cotton, flax, or some other 
bast fiber (ramie, also called China grass, does grow in parts of China.) 
This is relevant because the bast fibers, and, to a lesser extent cotton, are 
in general more difficult to dye than wool.


But China is such a massive territory that I'm sure what was worn varied 
greatly with both place and time.


Sorry, again, none of this helps WorkroomButtons, does it?


Ann Wass
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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

2012-12-03 Thread Marjorie Wilser
Any chance of a link to the original? There's an iPad app I want to  
explore. . .  ;) This link goes to a photo, not a page (the link which  
shows on the photo isn't clickable).


 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW


On Dec 3, 2012, at 3:55 AM, WorkroomButtons.com wrote:


Thanks!  I think I found the statue you're describing:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PGdp__poAtM/T-LYMC-WgCI/L8Q/Nld5-rVqp7c/s1600/scan0004.jpg

You're right -- pretty garish... One does wonder what kind of dyes  
might have been used by Chinese peasants.  This may be irrelevant,  
but I read that European peasants' clothing was actually quite  
colorful, and that they frequently re-dyed them as the natural  
colors tended to fade.


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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

2012-12-03 Thread WorkroomButtons.com
Any chance of a link to the original? There's an iPad app I want to 
explore. . .  ;) This link goes to a photo, not a page (the link which 
shows on the photo isn't clickable).

         == Marjorie Wilser


My apologies... I'm not sure where the image was originally posted, but I got 
it from here:

http://jameszaworski.blogspot.com/2012/06/terra-cotta-warriors-of-xian-in-color.html

Hope that helps!

Dede
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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

2012-12-03 Thread Ginni Morgan
Um, the June 2012 issue of National Geographic Magazine has an article with 
color photographs on the colors of the Terra Cotta Army.  Check your local 
library (or your neighbors) for a copy.  The colors were stunning.  Definitely 
eye bleeding time.  As for peasants, see if you can google Chinese painting for 
that period and look for workers in the rice paddies or something like that.  
There are often travelogue paintings that sometimes have servants hauling 
everything up a mountain.

Ginni

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf Of WorkroomButtons.com
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2012 3:56 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

Thanks!  I think I found the statue you're describing:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PGdp__poAtM/T-LYMC-WgCI/L8Q/Nld5-rVqp7c/s1600/scan0004.jpg

You're right -- pretty garish... One does wonder what kind of dyes might have 
been used by Chinese peasants.  This may be irrelevant, but I read that 
European peasants' clothing was actually quite colorful, and that they 
frequently re-dyed them as the natural colors tended to fade.

Wow!  That sounds like quite the project you have there.  I haven't a clue 
about peasant costumes, sorry.  But one thing you might want to think about is, 
colour was used a lot more that it would appear now.  The statues pretty much 
appear to be a consistent mud shade, right?  Well, I was watching one 
documentary about these statutes (I admit it, the things fascinate me), and 
apparently they used to be painted incredibly colourfully but the paint didn't 
survive time as well as the terracotta.  There are only traces of the paint 
left, not enough that would show up on camera, so a German (or at least I think 
it was German) museum recreated one of the statues and then using the traces of 
paint found on it, painted as it would have been when it was buried and put 
it on display.  Most people are so blown away by the garishness of the colours 
they have difficulty believing that is what it would have looked like.  So 
after my long tangent...don't  write off colours for the peasan!
 t kinds, because if those statues were anything to go by, apparently there 
wasn't a colour they didn't like in any combination.  LOL!  Just about enough 
to make your eyes bleed - as bad as the Greeks!

Cheers,
Danielle
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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

2012-12-03 Thread Catherine Olanich Raymond

On 12/03/2012 03:53 PM, Ginni Morgan wrote:

Um, the June 2012 issue of National Geographic Magazine has an
articlewith color photographs on the colors of the Terra Cotta Army. Check your

local library (or your neighbors) for a copy. The colors were stunning.
Definitely eye bleeding time. As for peasants, see if you can google
Chinese painting for that period and look for workers in the rice
paddies or something like that. There are often travelogue paintings
that sometimes have servants hauling everything up a mountain.

Judging from the URL on that image, it is probably taken from the 
National Geographic article.




--
Cathy Raymond
ca...@thyrsus.com
(610) 805-9542

Remember that time is money.
--Benjamin Franklin
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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

2012-12-03 Thread Marion McNealy
You might also look for the book  5000 Years of Chinese Costumes  by Xun 
Zhou; Chunming Gao; in your local university library. I saw a copy today at a 
used bookstore and it looked like it could be useful for pattern shapes, etc.

- Marion
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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

2012-12-03 Thread WorkroomButtons.com
Judging from the URL on that image, it is probably taken from the National 
Geographic article.

-- Cathy Raymond
ca...@thyrsus.com
(610) 805-9542

Thanks -- I followed the URL, but it led to a dead end.  Luckily, the blog I 
linked had it.

-Dede
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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

2012-12-03 Thread annbwass



As for peasants, see if you can google Chinese painting for 
that period and look for workers in the rice paddies or something like that.  
There are often travelogue paintings that sometimes have servants hauling 
everything up a mountain.


Ooo, good idea!


Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Ginni Morgan ginni.mor...@doj.ca.gov
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Mon, Dec 3, 2012 3:54 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?


Um, the June 2012 issue of National Geographic Magazine has an article with 
color photographs on the colors of the Terra Cotta Army.  Check your local 
library (or your neighbors) for a copy.  The colors were stunning.  Definitely 
eye bleeding time.  As for peasants, see if you can google Chinese painting for 
that period and look for workers in the rice paddies or something like that.  
There are often travelogue paintings that sometimes have servants hauling 
everything up a mountain.

Ginni

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf 
Of WorkroomButtons.com
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2012 3:56 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

Thanks!  I think I found the statue you're describing:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PGdp__poAtM/T-LYMC-WgCI/L8Q/Nld5-rVqp7c/s1600/scan0004.jpg

You're right -- pretty garish... One does wonder what kind of dyes might have 
been used by Chinese peasants.  This may be irrelevant, but I read that 
European 
peasants' clothing was actually quite colorful, and that they frequently 
re-dyed 
them as the natural colors tended to fade.

Wow!  That sounds like quite the project you have there.  I haven't a clue 
about 
peasant costumes, sorry.  But one thing you might want to think about is, 
colour 
was used a lot more that it would appear now.  The statues pretty much appear 
to 
be a consistent mud shade, right?  Well, I was watching one documentary about 
these statutes (I admit it, the things fascinate me), and apparently they used 
to be painted incredibly colourfully but the paint didn't survive time as well 
as the terracotta.  There are only traces of the paint left, not enough that 
would show up on camera, so a German (or at least I think it was German) museum 
recreated one of the statues and then using the traces of paint found on it, 
painted as it would have been when it was buried and put it on display.  Most 
people are so blown away by the garishness of the colours they have difficulty 
believing that is what it would have looked like.  So after my long 
tangent...don't  write off colours for the peasan!
 t kinds, because if those statues were anything to go by, apparently there 
wasn't a colour they didn't like in any combination.  LOL!  Just about enough 
to 
make your eyes bleed - as bad as the Greeks!

Cheers,
Danielle
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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

2012-12-03 Thread Catherine Olanich Raymond

On 12/03/2012 05:14 PM, Marion McNealy wrote:

You might also look for the book  5000 Years of Chinese Costumes  by Xun
Zhou; Chunming Gao; in your local university library. I saw a copy today at a
used bookstore and it looked like it could be useful for pattern shapes, etc.


I have it; it's a great reference, but it doesn't say much of anything 
about peasant costume for early time periods.  It might be possible to 
infer basic clothing shapes from it, but it doesn't really answer 
questions about colors.


--
Cathy Raymond
ca...@thyrsus.com
(610) 805-9542

Remember that time is money.
--Benjamin Franklin
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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

2012-12-03 Thread lauren . walker


Hmm. Not a lot of easy pickings here on the museum search. If you could find an 
illustrated copy of the Rites of Zhou, there might be clothing illustrations in 
it. There seems to be a prevalent belief that peasant clothing was regional 
until the unification under the First Emperor, and then maybe he tried to 
standardize clothing while he was standardizing everything else? Which doesn't 
tell you what the standard *was*, alas. 



Here is a picture of two figures, listed as A female servant and male advisor 
in Chinese silk robes from the Western Han Period, 202 BC to 9 AD: 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:China.Terracotta_statues007.jpg 


Here's a dancer from the same period: 

http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/1992.165.19 



and a musician: 

http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/1994.605.85a-c 



My browser is not finding the image here, but maybe yours will. I t's supposed 
to be a figurine of a woman from the Warring States Period, 476–221 B.C. : 
http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/figurine-of-a-standing-woman-20272 



This piece seems to indicate that cotton was only introduced to China around 
200 BC. So your peasants wouldn't be wearing cotton. Maybe linen? 

http://www.sccfsac.org/textiles.html 



and, an interesting article on some ancient silk, cotton, and linen Chineses 
textile finds, including some surprisingly early dates for some dyes. 

http://history.cultural-china.com/en/56History9723.html 



If you want to use  movie costumes for refer ence, there's always Hero. 

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0299977/ 



Best, 

Lauren Walker 

- Original Message -


From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com 
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com 
Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2012 1:36:23 AM 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help? 

Any help in the movie Mulan? It's been a while since I saw it, but it may 
have some ideas. 
Sharon C. 

-Original Message- 
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On 
Behalf Of WorkroomButtons.com 
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2012 6:18 PM 
To: Historical Costume 
Subject: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help? 

...or Tales of a Band Mom. 

This year's winter percussion piece is Terra Cotta Warriors and first 
order of business... peasant costumes for kids in the pit (stationary 
instruments like xylophones, chimes, etc.) 

What the heck did Chinese peasants wear in 3rd century BC?  Our band 
director is proposing simple wrap-style tunics (like short kimonos) and 
scrub pants torn below the knee -- both dyed in earthy colors.  
Semi-accurate?  Horrible?  Are conical hats appropriate? --although I can 
see them getting knocked off.  I'm clueless, and can find neither image nor 
description. 

Part II will be terracotta soldier costumes to be worn by very active 
teenagers with drums, but I need to deal with the peasants first. 

Help? 
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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

2012-12-03 Thread lilinah
I recall reading how shocked people were when they discovered that those 
pristine white marble Greek sculptures had been brightly painted.

One thing to bear in mind is that artist's pigment palettes and dyer's palettes 
are often quite different.

Another thing is that paint colors often are not available in dyes. The 
beautiful ultramarine blue so commonly shown on clothing in the various Books 
of Hours painted for the Duc de Berry in the 14th c. was a color unavailable in 
dye.

Third, colors that are desirable in paint - for example, rare or expensive 
pigments - are often quite different from the colors that are rare or expensive 
in dyes. That ultramarine blue i mentioned came from lapis lazuli and was 
expensive and desirable in paintings. But blue in clothing came from woad or 
indigo and was not so desirable. One of the most desirable colors for wool 
and/or silk was the bright blue-red from kermes and other similar lac insects 
(and in the 16th c. from New World cochineal). There is a lake from a lac 
insect used in paint (alizarin), but it doesn't have the bright glow of the dye.

Additionally, what mordants are used to fixed the dyes effect the colors that 
result. Using different mordants -- for example alum, tannin, and iron -- 
results in three different colors -- alum fairly bright and true; tannin 
browned a bit; iron saddened, i.e. greyed, a bit. Not to forget that mordants 
often weaken fibers so that they don't survive the centuries well.

Further, what fibers are being dyed also effects that colors. Any cellulose 
fiber -- not just linen or cotton, but also various other bast fibers such as 
hemp, ramie -- do not take most colors well, so will be paler and fade more 
quickly. Whereas proteinaceous fibers such as wool and silk take colors very 
well. Silk tends to be reserved for the wealthy, but in many places common 
people wear wool, even in summer, if they have sheep, or other wool-type fiber 
bearing animals.

Finally, unlike Euro-American artists of the 19th and much of the 20th 
centuries, in many cultures, artists are NOT painting from life, and this goes 
for the colors they use to depict garments.

These points are true -- in general -- for many centuries and at least the 
continents of Asia and Europe, if not on other continents.

I can't speak specifically to the Chinese issue, but it is worth reminding 
ourselves that art is not photograph, and just because something is painted a 
certain way does not mean that people wore those colors. Maybe they did, but to 
back it up, we need more input than just pieces of art -- surviving textile 
fragments, textual descriptions, etc.

Anahita
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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

2012-12-03 Thread Heather Rose Jones
 At 08:18 PM 12/1/2012, you wrote:
 ...or Tales of a Band Mom.
 
 This year's winter percussion piece is Terra Cotta Warriors and first 
 order of business... peasant costumes for kids in the pit (stationary 
 instruments like xylophones, chimes, etc.)
 
 What the heck did Chinese peasants wear in 3rd century BC?  Our band 
 director is proposing simple wrap-style tunics (like short kimonos) and 
 scrub pants torn below the knee -- both dyed in earthy colors.  
 Semi-accurate?  Horrible?  Are conical hats appropriate? --although I can 
 see them getting knocked off.  I'm clueless, and can find neither image nor 
 description.
 
 Part II will be terracotta soldier costumes to be worn by very active 
 teenagers with drums, but I need to deal with the peasants first.
 
 Help?
 

I missed this question before due to zipping through a lot of e-mail.  For 
whatever use it might be, the exhibition Secrets of the Silk Road included a 
handful of garments from the period you're interested in from a territory that 
is now part of China (though not in central China).  It might give you some 
inspiration.  I don't know how easy it would be to get your hands on the 
exhibition catalog, but I took a lot of notes and sketches of the clothing that 
was part of the exhibit and have them posted on my website here:  
http://www.heatherrosejones.com/silkroad/index.html

(My index to the notes is arranged chronologically, which should help you focus 
in on the relevant items.)

To re-emphasize: this items come from a region that is on the very western edge 
of modern China and probably does not represent core Chinese culture of the 
time. But in combination with artistic evidence, it may give you a place to 
start.

Heather
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