[h-cost] Spanish costume/Alcega
I'm doing some tentative research for a 16th century Spanish woman's outfit. Looking through Alcega's pattern book, I'm a little confused as to the terminology and want to know whether it's a translation error or whether there are genuinely two different garments being described: For example, the translation for f. 57a-f. 58a are described as kirtles, but seem to show a skirt. Even the patterns for kirtles and bodies show what looks like a bodice and a detached skirt. I'm accustomed to a kirtle being an all-in-one gown or bodice with attached skirt. This is further confused by the fact that f. 55 - f. 57 are described as skirts - the pieces seem to have curved seams but otherwise look like skirts made to cover the lower half of the body only. So, I guess my question is whether for Spanish 16th century: is there a difference between skirts and kirtles, or are the words interchangeable for a woman's lower body garment? Thanks in advance, Allison T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Spanish costume/Alcega
I'm doing some tentative research for a 16th century Spanish woman's outfit. Looking through Alcega's pattern book, I'm a little confused as to the terminology and want to know whether it's a translation error or whether there are genuinely two different garments being described: There are very definitely two different garments and they almost certainly serve a different purpose, I just have yet to work out what they are! The Vasquina occasionally come with a bodice, but the diagram very clearly states when this is the case (Vasquina y cuerpo baxo) also remember the term kirtle means different things at different times and probably our use of the word to describe a bodiced garment for many periods isn't quite correct. Also remember when you kirtle your skirts it means to bunch it up at the hip;) The Vasquina are all cut as gored skirts you will notice, so the waist will be pleated/gathered. The fact that some come with a body... I'm not sure. Perhaps they were worn with the doublet type bodices you can see at the beginning of the diagrams (f 14.) Perhaps they were worn over the Verdugados as it is constructed in a similar manner. Or were a replacement for the Verdugados The Faldellin are all half circle in shape with a seam across the front. I personally wonder if these are mimicked by tucks in the fronts of court dress we see. Perhaps the style started as a practical cutting issue with these half circle skirts and then were used as decoration. I know I've seen similar fossilisation of features in ceremonial dress but I cna't think of many off the top of my head. Panniers under high waisted gowns is one that springs to mind. Maybe these were worn between vasquina and gowns to help acheive that cone shape of he skirt. Maybe these were worn with the doublet type bodice at the start of the book. I am going to look closer in the various Trachtenbuchen of the time to see if there is any representation of dress other than what we see in portraits of the time that may shed a light. They certainly helped me with my Koeln dress research. Michaela de Bruce http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com http://costumes.glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
