Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions
Thanks, 'Bella! Armed with a copy of Denise Dreher's From the Neck Up: an illustrated guide to hatmaking and your helpful posts, we forged ahead with the 1908 hat project today. Using lightweight wool felt and a heavy non-fusible interfacing (possibly Pel-tex'… it was in my stash but not labeled), and hand stitching, we got a nice approximation of the turban in McCall Pattern No. 6260, Scotch Hats. (There are 3 views: a scotch cap which is fairly simple, a tam-o-'shanter which looks like a large Buster Brown hat, and the turban which is what took my student's fancy.) I haven't found any images for this pattern on teh interwebz -- it appears that McCall's has re-used that number at least 6 times in the intervening century -- so I'll try to get it posted on our Facebook page next week. :-) I couldn't find hat canvas in our small midwestern town, and I didn't want to use buckram (available at JoAnn's in the utility fabric section) because it's not water-proof, so that dictated the choice of materials. I'm going to try another version with a lightweight fashion fabric for comparison. The pattern directions assume that you know when to trim and clip the seam allowance, and when to stitch the center back seam, and how to apply the embellishments… it was an interesting exercise in historic interpretation. The next challenge is to figure out how to adapt the pattern for different head sizes (I think this one assumes that you'll be wearing it on top of big hair). We're jazzed now and thinking about ordering hat canvas and millinery wire online so we can tackle more complicated projects. Suzanne On Feb 15, 2013, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: Subject: Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions Date: February 14, 2013 9:50:30 PM CST To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com …. Your hat question has been on my mind for hours now, and I'm doing a little bit of surfing. (I've been unable to find a picture of the pattern you have though...poo!) Nevetheless, here's a little more hand-holding for ya! This page has a list of different types of hat canvas, and there's a paragraph toward the middle of the page that says for fabric suggestions, go to my homepage. http://www.millinerytechniques.com/covered-hat-requirements.html 'Bella ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions
Thank you for the update, Suzanne! I'd love to see pictures. :) I found treasure today, and I think you're realy going to like it! http://www.sewweekly.com/2011/04/10-free-hat-tutorials-patterns/ Mena, SewWeekly's blogger, did an excellent job pulling together a list of free tutorials on the web. I love that there is a of variety hats (that they weren't all variations on the same theme or year). I couldn't help but take at look at each tutorial as soon as I found the list! Each tutorial is written by different person. Some were dumbed down. A few assumed advanced experience. Most were in the middle, similar to a knowledge base expected for a big three commercial pattern. However, number 4 kind of blew me away. Just drafting your pattern requires an advanced degree in mathematics! I found one broken link, and it's most unfortunate. It went to a hat making book, from '52, posted online. Anyway, give it a looksee. I hope you're as tickled as I am and I couldn't wait to share it with you. 'Bella On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 6:07 PM, Suzanne sovag...@cybermesa.com wrote: Thanks, 'Bella! Armed with a copy of Denise Dreher's From the Neck Up: an illustrated guide to hatmaking and your helpful posts, we forged ahead with the 1908 hat project today. Using lightweight wool felt and a heavy non-fusible interfacing (possibly Pel-tex'… it was in my stash but not labeled), and hand stitching, we got a nice approximation of the turban in McCall Pattern No. 6260, Scotch Hats. (There are 3 views: a scotch cap which is fairly simple, a tam-o-'shanter which looks like a large Buster Brown hat, and the turban which is what took my student's fancy.) I haven't found any images for this pattern on teh interwebz -- it appears that McCall's has re-used that number at least 6 times in the intervening century -- so I'll try to get it posted on our Facebook page next week. :-) I couldn't find hat canvas in our small midwestern town, and I didn't want to use buckram (available at JoAnn's in the utility fabric section) because it's not water-proof, so that dictated the choice of materials. I'm going to try another version with a lightweight fashion fabric for comparison. The pattern directions assume that you know when to trim and clip the seam allowance, and when to stitch the center back seam, and how to apply the embellishments… it was an interesting exercise in historic interpretation. The next challenge is to figure out how to adapt the pattern for different head sizes (I think this one assumes that you'll be wearing it on top of big hair). We're jazzed now and thinking about ordering hat canvas and millinery wire online so we can tackle more complicated projects. Suzanne On Feb 15, 2013, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: Subject: Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions Date: February 14, 2013 9:50:30 PM CST To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com …. Your hat question has been on my mind for hours now, and I'm doing a little bit of surfing. (I've been unable to find a picture of the pattern you have though...poo!) Nevetheless, here's a little more hand-holding for ya! This page has a list of different types of hat canvas, and there's a paragraph toward the middle of the page that says for fabric suggestions, go to my homepage. http://www.millinerytechniques.com/covered-hat-requirements.html 'Bella ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions
Suzanne and Sybella, thank you both. Evidentually, I will follow up on what you posted, 'Bella. I, too, dabble in millinery but am no expert. And Suzanne, nothing like just plunging in and trying it, is there? Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Sybella mae...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 22:09 Subject: Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions Thank you for the update, Suzanne! I'd love to see pictures. :) I found treasure today, and I think you're realy going to like it! http://www.sewweekly.com/2011/04/10-free-hat-tutorials-patterns/ Mena, SewWeekly's blogger, did an excellent job pulling together a list of free tutorials on the web. I love that there is a of variety hats (that they weren't all variations on the same theme or year). I couldn't help but take at look at each tutorial as soon as I found the list! Each tutorial is written by different person. Some were dumbed down. A few assumed advanced experience. Most were in the middle, similar to a knowledge base expected for a big three commercial pattern. However, number 4 kind of blew me away. Just drafting your pattern requires an advanced degree in mathematics! I found one broken link, and it's most unfortunate. It went to a hat making book, from '52, posted online. Anyway, give it a looksee. I hope you're as tickled as I am and I couldn't wait to share it with you. 'Bella On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 6:07 PM, Suzanne sovag...@cybermesa.com wrote: Thanks, 'Bella! Armed with a copy of Denise Dreher's From the Neck Up: an illustrated guide to hatmaking and your helpful posts, we forged ahead with the 1908 hat project today. Using lightweight wool felt and a heavy non-fusible interfacing (possibly Pel-tex'… it was in my stash but not labeled), and hand stitching, we got a nice approximation of the turban in McCall Pattern No. 6260, Scotch Hats. (There are 3 views: a scotch cap which is fairly simple, a tam-o-'shanter which looks like a large Buster Brown hat, and the turban which is what took my student's fancy.) I haven't found any images for this pattern on teh interwebz -- it appears that McCall's has re-used that number at least 6 times in the intervening century -- so I'll try to get it posted on our Facebook page next week. :-) I couldn't find hat canvas in our small midwestern town, and I didn't want to use buckram (available at JoAnn's in the utility fabric section) because it's not water-proof, so that dictated the choice of materials. I'm going to try another version with a lightweight fashion fabric for comparison. The pattern directions assume that you know when to trim and clip the seam allowance, and when to stitch the center back seam, and how to apply the embellishments… it was an interesting exercise in historic interpretation. The next challenge is to figure out how to adapt the pattern for different head sizes (I think this one assumes that you'll be wearing it on top of big hair). We're jazzed now and thinking about ordering hat canvas and millinery wire online so we can tackle more complicated projects. Suzanne On Feb 15, 2013, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: Subject: Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions Date: February 14, 2013 9:50:30 PM CST To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com …. Your hat question has been on my mind for hours now, and I'm doing a little bit of surfing. (I've been unable to find a picture of the pattern you have though...poo!) Nevetheless, here's a little more hand-holding for ya! This page has a list of different types of hat canvas, and there's a paragraph toward the middle of the page that says for fabric suggestions, go to my homepage. http://www.millinerytechniques.com/covered-hat-requirements.html 'Bella ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions
Wayback Machine to the rescue! http://web.archive.org/web/20080723214521/http://vintagesewing.info/1950s/52-hmh/hmh-toc.html From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] on behalf of Sybella [mae...@gmail.com] I found one broken link, and it's most unfortunate. It went to a hat making book, from '52, posted online. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions
Oh, Emma...I think I love you!! :D I was looking at that Carnahan book on eBay and Amazon last night and so desperately wanted to see inside. I had no idea THAT was the broken link. LOL! (*Giggles* at Wayback Machine.) 'Bella On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 10:32 PM, e...@huskers.unl.edu e...@huskers.unl.edu wrote: Wayback Machine to the rescue! http://web.archive.org/web/20080723214521/http://vintagesewing.info/1950s/52-hmh/hmh-toc.html From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] on behalf of Sybella [mae...@gmail.com] I found one broken link, and it's most unfortunate. It went to a hat making book, from '52, posted online. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions
I use buckram for hats. It comes in different weights and can be found in black and white. From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Sybella [mae...@gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2013 9:11 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions Hat canvas is different than interfacing. It looks more like heavily stiffened gauze. (I have no clue what Timtex is but I do have a small roll of canvas for hats. Unfortunately, I have no packaging to identify it by brand.) Some of my vintage hats are wired too but most of them hold their shape with just the canvas. I would take canvas the brim to mean attach the interfacing, the interfacing being the hat canvas, of course. As for fabric choices, what will it be worn with? Perhaps a velveteen? 'Bella On Thu, Feb 14, 2013 at 5:37 PM, Suzanne sovag...@cybermesa.com wrote: I have a millinery question -- or maybe I just need some hand-holding while I talk through these instructions. I'm looking at a © 1908 McCall's pattern for a turban and it starts out, Canvas the brim. Does that simply mean 'attach interfacing'? What was canvas in 1908? (Will Timtex work?) This should be a simple project 'cause it's only 2 pattern pieces… but hats are definitely not my strong suit! The so-called brim is a shaped upright piece, similar to a Scotch bonnet; the crown is a soft, slightly gathered, oval. The glory of the turban is in the braid and feather trim, of course. But first we gotta' make the hat… and I have a student anxious for my help… I'm touched by her confidence but I really don't know what I'm doing! This hat has no lining, and the directions tell me to turn under the edge of the brim and stitch it down. What would be suitable fabrics? Do I need a wool felt, or can we do this with any tightly woven fashion fabric? (The yardage on the pattern envelope is for 27 wide fabric, but doesn't indicate what fabric.) Help! Suzanne in Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions
I have a millinery question -- or maybe I just need some hand-holding while I talk through these instructions. I'm looking at a © 1908 McCall's pattern for a turban and it starts out, Canvas the brim. Does that simply mean 'attach interfacing'? What was canvas in 1908? (Will Timtex work?) This should be a simple project 'cause it's only 2 pattern pieces… but hats are definitely not my strong suit! The so-called brim is a shaped upright piece, similar to a Scotch bonnet; the crown is a soft, slightly gathered, oval. The glory of the turban is in the braid and feather trim, of course. But first we gotta' make the hat… and I have a student anxious for my help… I'm touched by her confidence but I really don't know what I'm doing! This hat has no lining, and the directions tell me to turn under the edge of the brim and stitch it down. What would be suitable fabrics? Do I need a wool felt, or can we do this with any tightly woven fashion fabric? (The yardage on the pattern envelope is for 27 wide fabric, but doesn't indicate what fabric.) Help! Suzanne in Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions
Hat canvas is different than interfacing. It looks more like heavily stiffened gauze. (I have no clue what Timtex is but I do have a small roll of canvas for hats. Unfortunately, I have no packaging to identify it by brand.) Some of my vintage hats are wired too but most of them hold their shape with just the canvas. I would take canvas the brim to mean attach the interfacing, the interfacing being the hat canvas, of course. As for fabric choices, what will it be worn with? Perhaps a velveteen? 'Bella On Thu, Feb 14, 2013 at 5:37 PM, Suzanne sovag...@cybermesa.com wrote: I have a millinery question -- or maybe I just need some hand-holding while I talk through these instructions. I'm looking at a © 1908 McCall's pattern for a turban and it starts out, Canvas the brim. Does that simply mean 'attach interfacing'? What was canvas in 1908? (Will Timtex work?) This should be a simple project 'cause it's only 2 pattern pieces… but hats are definitely not my strong suit! The so-called brim is a shaped upright piece, similar to a Scotch bonnet; the crown is a soft, slightly gathered, oval. The glory of the turban is in the braid and feather trim, of course. But first we gotta' make the hat… and I have a student anxious for my help… I'm touched by her confidence but I really don't know what I'm doing! This hat has no lining, and the directions tell me to turn under the edge of the brim and stitch it down. What would be suitable fabrics? Do I need a wool felt, or can we do this with any tightly woven fashion fabric? (The yardage on the pattern envelope is for 27 wide fabric, but doesn't indicate what fabric.) Help! Suzanne in Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions
Your hat question has been on my mind for hours now, and I'm doing a little bit of surfing. (I've been unable to find a picture of the pattern you have though...poo!) Nevetheless, here's a little more hand-holding for ya! This page has a list of different types of hat canvas, and there's a paragraph toward the middle of the page that says for fabric suggestions, go to my homepage. http://www.millinerytechniques.com/covered-hat-requirements.html 'Bella On Thu, Feb 14, 2013 at 6:11 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote: Hat canvas is different than interfacing. It looks more like heavily stiffened gauze. (I have no clue what Timtex is but I do have a small roll of canvas for hats. Unfortunately, I have no packaging to identify it by brand.) Some of my vintage hats are wired too but most of them hold their shape with just the canvas. I would take canvas the brim to mean attach the interfacing, the interfacing being the hat canvas, of course. As for fabric choices, what will it be worn with? Perhaps a velveteen? 'Bella On Thu, Feb 14, 2013 at 5:37 PM, Suzanne sovag...@cybermesa.com wrote: I have a millinery question -- or maybe I just need some hand-holding while I talk through these instructions. I'm looking at a © 1908 McCall's pattern for a turban and it starts out, Canvas the brim. Does that simply mean 'attach interfacing'? What was canvas in 1908? (Will Timtex work?) This should be a simple project 'cause it's only 2 pattern pieces… but hats are definitely not my strong suit! The so-called brim is a shaped upright piece, similar to a Scotch bonnet; the crown is a soft, slightly gathered, oval. The glory of the turban is in the braid and feather trim, of course. But first we gotta' make the hat… and I have a student anxious for my help… I'm touched by her confidence but I really don't know what I'm doing! This hat has no lining, and the directions tell me to turn under the edge of the brim and stitch it down. What would be suitable fabrics? Do I need a wool felt, or can we do this with any tightly woven fashion fabric? (The yardage on the pattern envelope is for 27 wide fabric, but doesn't indicate what fabric.) Help! Suzanne in Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
