Re: Zinc levels in oil
On Sunday 24 December 2006 05:58, Marty McLeod wrote: Is there a web page or somewhere on the web that I can go to find out a breakdown of all the oil manufacturers and how much zinc each has in there oil. Also, what is the minimum amount required to run in our older engines. I want to look in to all before making a decision on what to run. Marty, The best place to start would be http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ M -- Mark Mullins USMC (ret.) Tucson, AZ
Re: Ebay Item
On Thursday 21 December 2006 20:17, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm thinking of bidding on this item on Ebay 130060816104 is this a 442? Greg At current bid ($510) it seems worth bidding on. I can't offer any clues other than a build sheet to see if it's a 442. The VIN (5th position) indicates that it was originally a 350, 4bbl, duals (M). This car obviously has a big block (blue most likely a 455) I also note the dual gate shifter, and either my bad eyes or monitor says that's a manual trans pedal setup in that car. So, a likely original 350, 4spd car... now with 455 auto (and dual gate shifter as a bonus) AND includes a spare parts car. Seems likely worth bidding on. M -- Mark Mullins USMC (ret.) Tucson, AZ
Re: Caring for a stored engine?
On Sunday 17 December 2006 18:00, Joe Vahabzadeh wrote: All, Hrm, well, while the 455 has been out of the donor vehicle for about a year now, frankly, it's just been sitting in the corner, under a blanket (keep it nice and cozy, don'cha know!) Joe, Just about anything you can do to improve the storage situation is good. However, if you're looking to use it just as a driver motor, I wouldn't worry too much. Just take some precautions when you fire it up. In 1981or '82, I pulled the 455 engine from a '70 Vista Cruiser with 20K miles or so on the odometer. (yard owner confirmed that the car had been there for 10 yrs or so). I sqirted some 3 in 1 (Marvel Mystery Oil) in the cylinders, and turned over by hand.. (OK i cheated... used a breaker bar). After I got it in the car, I again cranked (starter, this time) with the plugs out. We changed the oil 5 times in the first week I ran it, until it came out looking more like oil than tar. But I did manage to put another 50K miles on my junkyard engine until I sold the car. (My only other problem with this one, was a blown head gasket due to overheat (bad radiator hose)) If it's for a driver, don't worry too much... I can't imagine a performance build based on a core motor.. (unless ya put the 455 in a Mini Cooper) M -- Mark Mullins USMC (ret.) Tucson, AZ
Re: Heater Problems
On Saturday 11 November 2006 17:02, mark wrote: The return hose is hot as well. So much so that i cant tell if its somewhat less hot than the supply. i think it might be another problem thats causing it to blow less than warm air.Any suggestions? thankx John Simple system.. Not many things can go wrong. Hot water flows thru the heater core. Heater fan provides air flow... Air doors direct it to the right place. On a '77, the air doors are likely vacuum controlled, rather than cable. If you find a softball sized vacuum cannister underhood, I'd check for leaks. M -- Mark Mullins USMC (ret.) Tucson, AZ
Re: Numbers WHAT?
On Monday 30 October 2006 15:48, Christopher Witt wrote: writes: YOU MUST NOT AS GOOD AS YOU THINK YOU ARE... BECAUSE IF YOU WAS THEN YOU WOULD HAVE KNOWN THAT THIS PARTICULAR CAR IS #16 OF 900 PRODUCED WITH THE HURST OPTION... AND THAT THIS IS A NUMBERS MATCHING CAR MAYBE YOU SHOULD GIVE SOME THOUGHT TO CHANGING YOUR SREEN NAME BECAUSE YOU SURE ARE NOT THE ROCKET SCIENTIST... HAVE A GOOD DAY CINDY What a dolt. The car is obviously a 1970 She says the title and body tag say 1969 I say it has been VIN-altered then #16 of 900 (re)produced, forged VINs Maybe yer onto a big ring here... M -- Mark Mullins USMC (ret.) Tucson, AZ
Re: Numbers WHAT?
James, It is indeed a '70 sport coupe (post). That VIN 336879 is for a '68 Hardtop. Seems like a clean looking car, but this one is an obvious fraud. M On Tuesday 31 October 2006 16:22, James Hernandez wrote: I looked at the Auction, the car looks like a 1970 to me, but I'm no expert. But You can see by the dual tail-lights it's a '70. What does this prove? Q: hope you know this is a 70'not a 69'. good luck Oct-19-06 A: FOR EVERYONE OUT THERE MY CAR IS A 69 IT HAS BEEN CONFIRMED BY A HOLLANDER BOOK AND THE TAX COMMISSIONER THEY ARE NOT WRONG. BUT HERE IS SOME KNOWLEGE...more -- Mark Mullins USMC (ret.) Tucson, AZ
Re: RE dizzy
On Thursday 26 October 2006 12:28, Bill G wrote: Neil Whats a dizzy? Perhaps a dizzy stributor :D (distributor) M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: carb ID
On Monday 16 October 2006 19:21, Troy Provost wrote: 7037360 http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/leadfoot/qjet1.htm My best guess, 1967 California Pontiac. -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: A-Body Frame Rag Top
On Tuesday 26 September 2006 19:00, Ken Snyder wrote:
In a message dated 9/26/06 8:36:13 PM Central Daylight Time, Robert Barry
writes:
-- Just beware; the GP used a longer wheelbase than the other 2-doors. --
I noticed he mentions that in his listing (truthfulness, what an eBay
concept!), was the Grand Prix the only A Special (Cutlass Supreme, Grand
Prix and Monte Carlo) that used the longer wheelbase? I've always heard
the story that there were A Bodies that was different and local racers
that use the Chevelle frame get leery when you mention a Cutlass frame.
Where does the Tempest-A Body frame fall into this?
I've never noticed a difference between, say, the 442/Cutlass 'S' and the
Supreme -- am I right on this?
IIRC, the Grand Prix and Monte Carlo ('70-72) were actually G body cars. The
Cutlass Supreme (notchback car) shared the same frame as the S (fastback)
The GP and MC indeed had a longer frame, but shared many chassis parts with
the A body cars.
M
--
Mark Mullins
Tucson, AZ
Re: Karen's repair woes solution?
On Friday 22 September 2006 15:41, spddemun wrote: Chris--You said what I have been to embarrassed to say. With my limited mobility these days, it is hard to do a lot of things I used to. Lack of cash is a big problem. I could trade for pet sitting services :-) Karen, No need to ever be embarrassed. However, your pet sitting comment stirred my memory just a bit. A small local paper recently had an article about a local pet sitter. While the article is not available online, he does have a web site. See http://www.paulspetsitting.com/ . Looks like a viable business opportunity for not a lot of investment. If you want the newspaper article, send me a snail mail address and I'll send it along. The guy started his pet sitting career (as he calls it) at age 59. Mostly low stress and seems to have quite a bit of demand. M Also see http://www.petsit.com -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: Karen's oily mess
Karen, Try running the engine with the AC turned off. Does it still spray oil? M On Thursday 21 September 2006 12:42, Infinite Space Systems, Inc. wrote: But since someone replied that I could be asking for a fire, now I'm afraid to start her at all! That was only because I interpreted what you said as a fine oil mist. That meant the oil spray was under pressure. That would also mean the oil mist would leave a fine coating of oil on everything, not just oil droplets. It now looks like you have a bad front AC compressor seal, with the possibility of also a bad front compressor bearing. Those oil droplets will be just that, oil droplets. That also explains the oil spot pattern in your photos, which were made by oil droplets flung out. You do not have a fire problem now. -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: Olds spraying oil?
Karen, Estimated? It could get ridiculous, if it is indeed the AC compressor. The compressor itself should be under $150. But, since you have an R12 system, there's plenty of room for additional charges. I suspect that most shops would recommend that you upgrade to R134. There could be additional cash outlay for that for correct parts to do that. R12 refrigerant is about $25 a pound, and your system uses 3-4 pounds of it. If your AC is cold, then you probably still have most of the refrigerant however, I suspect most shops would either charge you for the entire quantity, or charge you for recycling the stuff you currently have. (a fine line here) If the AC proves to be the problem, then take it to someone you know and trust to do the maintenance. M On Thursday 21 September 2006 12:51, spddemun wrote: Estimated repair (not DIY)? Karen --- Infinite Space Systems, Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Okay, it's probably an AC compressor bad front seal. The screech might also be a bad front compressor bearing, which would knock out the front seal. The oil is from the compressor. -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: ROP Board
On Tuesday 19 September 2006 13:41, Infinite Space Systems, Inc. wrote: Can someone tell me how to contact ROP and straighten this out??? You re-registered AFTER the crash (iirc, to get the group discount on the RobbMc starter) At any rate, contact Rick, [EMAIL PROTECTED] or Russel, [EMAIL PROTECTED] They'll be able to get it fixed. M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: Crappy Olds weekend
I have indeed had the module quit with no other problems. This is common enough to warrant keeping a spare in the car. M On Sunday 10 September 2006 20:50, RickChiero wrote: I never seen a module fail while driving but I have seen the pickup coils fail. He may want to ohm that pickup or see if the wires are broke to it. And Joe Walters wrote: Ya, no fuel would do it for sure. I don't think I was ever driving when a module quit. Do GM modules always fail completely at once? And Greg Beaulieu wrote: Did you check for spark? I'm thinking ignition module might have fried in the heat if there is no spark. -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: UNBOUNCE: '70 4-4-2 Finishes
On Monday 10 July 2006 13:51, Greg Beaulieu wrote: Not on the list, respond to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you can assist. Anyone ever see this sort of thing published? That sounds like Mr Witt's department. : ) -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Archives (Olds related, of course)
As part of Project Gutenburg freebies for the month, I searched Olds video. Figured some would like a few of these. M http://www.archive.org/search.php?query=Oldsmobile%20AND%20mediatype%3Amovies%20AND%20collection%3Aprelinger or http://tinyurl.com/qqu2l -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: Pulleys was: funny hat
On Monday 03 July 2006 09:07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Chris, sorry I can`t help you with that pulley, but I was wondering if you can help me with something ? I have a bunch of pulleys on ebay. Where can I find the info that tells me the application, by the code on the pulley ? Dennis, Check the assembly manual (for '68 it was in Sec. 6-2) M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: REO!
On Monday 03 July 2006 16:28, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: SSgt (finally promoted after 23 years -- long story) Congrats Ken! M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: part? What Part?
On Wednesday 28 June 2006 09:02, Garth DeVries wrote: Also do you have the welting (I am not sure of the name) that is rubber that runs around the back window, top of front window and along the sides of a 1970-72 Holiday coupe? I need black, white or both. This is the stuff that trims out the head liner. One more thing I need black seat belts. Garth, Year One (and others) still carry this stuff. Look for windlace M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: 68-72 Accessory Bolts for w/ AC all sorted out?
I'd like to have a copy of that, if available. Not sure which WP boltstud you're referring to, but see the Assembley manual, section 6-0 page 112. Lots of pictures, part numbers and torque values. M On Monday 12 June 2006 18:59, Christopher Witt wrote: What a King Size PITA. At long last I believe I have sorted out all the fasteners required to put PS, Alt, and AC brackets on the '68-72 Olds V8. All but the PN of that long WP boltstud that does not exist. But, who needs that? SO, it's all in an Excel sheet, bolt and nut and spacer PN's and sizes and whatnot. Toro's and 88/98's not inlcuded. Turns out there's a danged lot of them. If anyone needs such info, it is available. Some of the required bracketry PN's in there too, and as many Group #'s as I could find. Even references to the Illustrations on the Part Number CD [what page to see, makes finding the dwg a LOT easier than hoping to get to the correct page by scanning thru them. -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: A Rallye 305 for sale
On Friday 16 June 2006 07:20, James Hernandez wrote: That should have said NEVER do that to my car. My fingers aren't as fast as my brain. James LMAO. James gets my best laugh of the day award. M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: 442 Achieva
On Monday 05 June 2006 08:32, steven pignataro wrote: What does that make my Rallye350? A bastard child? Redheaded stepson? Screaming yellow zonkers. M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: 68 vs '69 442 DOOR PANEL ROCKETS
On Monday 05 June 2006 17:21, Christopher Witt wrote: What about 1968 models? Rockets, S, nothing at all? No rockets (nothing at all) on the '68. M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: JWO
On Tuesday 30 May 2006 20:41, Joe Varley wrote: I get JWO first class and it just arrived today. Our mail service here sucks!! Obviously the Pony Express is alive and well in Arizona M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: Changing FIU gas filter
On Friday 26 May 2006 07:41, Christopher Witt wrote: LINE WRENCHES to avoid mangling the fitting nuts Not Taiwan units either, Craftsman or better [Mac, Snap-on, Matco, etc.] Barely on topic, but SK makes a decent line wrench at about 2/3 the snap on price. (any google search) M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: man seeks 68-9 convert R Qtr TRIM[S]
The Parts Place lists these. Rather pricey @ $260 each and the core charge. BODY SIDE MOLDING QUARTER PANEL CONVERTIBLE 3/8 WIDE (EXCHANGE - CORE CHARGE $150) http://www.thepartsplaceinc.com M On Thursday 25 May 2006 17:19, Christopher Witt wrote: From: Lisa Harrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: need help with part please Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 08:04:21 -0500 Dear Chris Witt, My name is Mel Harrell and I live in Texas. I am trying to find the molding that runs on top of the fender. the piece that i am missing is the passenger side rear fender molding. a metal strip that runs on top of the fender from the quarter window to the bumper. the vehicle is a 1969 cutlass S convertible. I hope you can help because I spent yesterday calling everyone from New York to California and nobody has this simple piece. Thank you---Mel Harrell 936-597-8552 --- Chris Witt *the* Rocket Scientist -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: riche loco
On Sunday 14 May 2006 07:33, Kurt Heinrich wrote: Because he says it's for a '69 442 and Hurst Olds, ergo worth $$$. Chris, you just have to abbreviate YOUR descriptions, HIS appears complete whereas you would have listed anything that was missing/damaged. Too many people have short attention spans or cannot read and therefore don't want to look at your auctions. 1971, 455, big car. M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
'68 442 Stripes
For those interested, I posted the pics of the correct stripes on my web page. Look in the Olds section. http://www.marineaviation.org M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: A real 68 442 with a dumb A$$ Owner
On Wednesday 10 May 2006 19:08, Gene Crowdis wrote: I did some digging in my reference books and here is what I find regarding the location of the Rally Stripe for the '68 442. Looking at the driver's side fender. From the end of the fender where it turns back under the windshield post the stripe should start approximately 4 1/2' from the point of the fender and is configured: 5/8 stripe, 5/8 space, 4 1/2 stripe, 5/8 space 5/8 space. The stripe starts immediately under the peak trim and goes 11 down, 2 1/2 space, then to the bottom of the fender. I believe that it is perpendicular to the bottom of the fender. Mirror these dimensions on the passenger side. I have photos for both sides, though I can't for the life of me recall who sent them to me. Anyway, the measurements are printed on the pics; dimensions from fender lines, hole spacing, stripe width, etc. Have shots of both sides of the car. If anyone needs 'em, hit me offline. Roughly 400Kb worth of pics M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: text too BIG?
On Friday 21 April 2006 16:22, Christopher Witt wrote: is it just me, or does the text get bigger and Bigger and BIGGER until not even one word fits the screen? Impossible to read at all. What's up w/ that? You're in luck. The ad contains a toll free number! 888-771-8812 I would prefer to see pics of his stuff. M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: 64-5-6-7 air cleaners: what happened to red= 4bbl, bk= 2bbl?
On Friday 07 April 2006 21:10, william grunblatt wrote: As a matter of fact I have decided to give the car to my son, as soon as I can get the 86 custom cruiser running.But in the mean time he wants to make some changes and I need some advice: If he's a teenager, I'd suggest a 2bbl and governor. I might also suggest... take up drinking My daddy said son yer gonna drive me to drinkin' if ya don't stop drivin' that hot rod (Oldsmobile???) linkin. M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: olds 400 block
On Thursday 06 April 2006 19:50, ron wrote: I can turn the 400 into a 455 and keep it looking original. Some modifications. Nothing radical You'll need to do some pretty radical things to turn a G-block 400 into a 455. M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: olds 400 block
On Thursday 06 April 2006 20:46, 77w30 wrote: I have never played with a 400 just pulled them and tossed in a 425 or 455. I thought all big block blocks were the same. All that was different was bore and stroke. So I figured internals off a 455 would work. So can you all educate me? Ron, Stroke is the same. Your biggest problem with the G-block is the 3.87 inch bore. I don't think you'll get a .256 overbore. Probably a few performance tricks, but nothing compared to the 455. I have read that a couple of the ROP crowd have done the 400-G by using the small valve C heads. (less valve shrouding) M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: Cordless Impact driver
On Wednesday 22 March 2006 20:10, Dan Roethel wrote: I was out at the local Costco store tonight and noticed they had an 18 volt impact driver/drill kit on sale for $69.00. They are advertised as having 5 times more torque than a regular cordless drill. Cordless impact would come in handy at the wrecking yard for removal of small rusted bolts or for those times you don't want to drag the air impact out. Has anyone used one of these on a car? I regularly use a 14.4 V DeWalt impact. Pretty fair tool for normal bolt removal. Depending on the quality for the brand name, it may be worth the price. As an example, I've been using my Craftsman 14.4v cordless drill for over 2 yrs., and just now in need of battery replacement. (Batteries for this one are only $23 each). The DW batteries are considerablly more expensive. Only had this one a couple months, so no clue as to long term reliability. -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: Build Sheet
On Sunday 19 March 2006 15:06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I looked under the backseat of a 1970 442 for the build sheet (not there). Where would be the other places in and out of the car, one might find this document? Appreciate your help. My '70 CS build sheet was under the seat cover... drivers side of the bench seat. M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: need driveshaft cut
On Friday 17 March 2006 16:56, 73H/O OLDSRIP wrote: There are many inexpensive angle finders to do just that. I think I have seen them in big part stores. I don't remember where mine came from. Yup... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34214 I know, it seems a rip-off at $3.99. Was on sale for $1.99 in my last sale circular. But it will work for what you need it for for less than the cost of the beer you consume while measuring. M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: 1961 olds starfire fuel gauge (fwd)
Lots of prayers and a case or 2 of beer sounds like a good start.. M On Monday 06 March 2006 15:28, Greg Beaulieu wrote: Not on the list, respond to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you can assist. -- Forwarded message -- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: 1961 olds starfire fuel gauge Hi, could someone tell me how to change the fuel gauge in the dash of a 61 starfire. Thanks Jim. -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: '78 98's Dashboard repair
On Monday 06 March 2006 15:29, spddemun wrote: The reply I got from recommended (from list) Legendary Auto Interiors is they DO not do my year Olds. Just FYI. They recommended I try Hemmings. Karen Karen, While they're not cheap, Just Dashes may be what you're looking for. http://www.justdashes.com/Index.htm M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: Header/manifold coatings/paint
On Friday 03 March 2006 18:55, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I need a sponsor$ and a brain doc. Randy H. I fancy myself as a decent brain surgeon... (but I only work for beer) M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: 700 R4 Transmission
On Monday 27 February 2006 17:51, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: However, the 400 is stronger than any of the others. I don't mean a little stronger, its 3 times as strong. Some will say another trans can be built up to be as strong as a 400, but you are talking kilobucks. The 400 will give the maximum strength for the minimum $ and minimum complexity. I have a 3:1 low gear set for a 400, but a switch pitch 400 will give more benefit. I suspect Bruce is very correct here. As a young dumb teenager, I toasted 3 TH350's in a year. After that, it took 2 years for me to trash a TH400. M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
Re: OT: I thought I was unique....
On Monday 27 February 2006 19:14, Joe Vahabzadeh wrote: I'd've thought that with my name, and being in the US, that there probably weren't any more Joe Vahabzadehs. I was wrong Consider yourself fortunate. There is another me in Glendale AZ. Nearly the same name (different middle initial) and exact same birthdate. I would've been happier if I'd never heard of him. But he has a penchant for not paying traffic tickets. So I learned of him, courtesy of the AZ DMV (who suspended my drivers license). Three of the tickets my license was suspended for were from 2-3 years before I ever had an AZ license. With the potential for identity theft these days, I'm tempted to have my name changed to Mohammed Bocephus Jones. M -- Mark Mullins Tucson, AZ
