what a deal!

2002-04-24 Thread Mishka

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1346937180r=0t=0showTu
torial=0ed=1019623536indexURL=0rd=1
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Re: Bummer! Anyone have any ideas what went wrong?

2002-04-24 Thread Antti-Pekka Virjonen

At 06:36 24.4.2002 -0400, you wrote:
I just had 3 rolls of slide film developed-- 1 roll of Provia F400 and 2 
rolls of Velvia.  I recently got the film via mail order from NY (first time 
for mail order film for me).  My camera is a PZ-1p and I was using 2 lenses, 
a macro lens and a Pentax 28-105.  The Provia slides turned out fine.  None 
of the Velvia slides turned out.  All were dreadfully underexposed.  Faint 

Did you use the Provia 400F first and then the rolls of Velvia ? Seems like
your camera is/was set to ISO 400 for the Velvia shots as well. Have you used
the manual override of the ISO setting ? Did you check that the ISO display
correctly showed ISO 50 when the Velvia was loaded ? 

I have seen the automatic ISO setting sometimes fail on my Z-1 due
to bad electrical contacts (the contacts in the film roll chamber).
I automatically check the ISO setting of my camera every time after 
loading a new roll of film (a habit which I have picked from using
the manual Pentax bodies like my LX) and sometimes check it again
if the body has been sitting unused a long time.

Antti-Pekka

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Re: OT: E6 processing at home: worth my trouble for30 rolls a year?

2002-04-24 Thread JGeoffreyStevens

   Sid, I do this for less than 30 rolls a year for the simple reason I 
haven't came 
across a satisfying lab. You may want to consider however the penalty of 
having to
wait till you gather 4-6 rolls (or maybe more ) to match the capacity of the 
E6 kit.

I've also considered doing this.  The 4-6 films 'problem' does not concern 
me.  What chemicals do you use and what means do you use of keeping the 
temperature constant  - do you use a (Jobo) processor or a washing up bowl 
filled with warm water ?  Also, I've done minimal BW processing so would 
this mean a long learning curve ?

TIA,
Geoff
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Re: Bummer! Anyone have any ideas what went wrong?

2002-04-24 Thread kleickly

I did use the 400 film first - then switched to Velvia.  I have never used 
the manual ISO setting, but I also never checked the ISO setting after I 
changed to the Velvia.  It never even occurred to me.  It makes sense that 
that is what might have happened.  I just put in a roll of 200 print film to 
see if that works, and the ISO setting does register as 200.  When I 
originally changed from 400 to Velvia, it was a very damp and cold day.  
Maybe that made a difference as far as the camera setting staying at 400.  
Thanks so much for getting back to me.  I will definitely check now each time 
I put new film in the camera.  

Kathy L.
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Re: OT: Agfapan APX 100 Pro film.

2002-04-24 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Tuesday, April 23, 2002, at 02:02  AM, Paul Stenquist wrote:

 I've found that almost any general purpose developer, like HC-110, will
 provide good results with almost all BW films. I'd bet they
 overdeveloped it. That'll give you contrasty and heavy for sure.

Sorry to chime in so late on this one, but it sounds like that to me, 
too.

Can you wrangle out of the lab their time/temp for APX 100?  Should be 
around 7 min.  21 C.

I processed a fair amount of 4x5 APX 100 in HC-110 dilution B, and the 
results were uniformly excellent, particularly tonal range.

How is the base density of the neg?  APX 100 should be virtually clear 
where there is no exposure.

-Aaron
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Re: close encounters of the bug knid

2002-04-24 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Tuesday, April 23, 2002, at 03:34  PM, Frantisek Vlcek wrote:

 Hmm, am I right to believe the middle P means portrait, therefore
 lowcontrast? And perhaps Standard, Highspeed and Zap! speed ;-)

Nope, cuz NPC is contrasty.  :)

-Aaron
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RE: Photos of Tulip Fields in Washington

2002-04-24 Thread Gaurav Aggarwal

Extremely beautiful!! I really enjoyed them. I also looked at
some other pictures and particularly liked the sunset picture
at:
http://www.geocities.com/harald_nancy/images/sunset.jpg

Was wondering if you could give me some tips on capturing sunsets.
How did you meter it? What is the best time to capture the sunset?
Did you need to bracket by large EV values? Any tips would be
much appreciated.

Gaurav

 -Original Message-
 
 Hi Pentaxians,
 I just spent a few days shooting in the tulip fields
 by La Conner, Washington state. 
 The expanse of colors in the tulip fields were spectacular!
 If anyone likes to view a few photos I scanned,
 go here:
 http://www.geocities.com/harald_nancy/Tulips_2002.htm
 Photos were taken with my trusty ZX-5, Pentax 50 macro,
 Pentax 28-70, Tokina 80-200, Tokina 20-35.
 slide film Kodak Elite Chrome 100.
 Harald
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RE: Website Update

2002-04-24 Thread Gaurav Aggarwal

I am just a beginner, who hardly manages to take a few shots worth
showing to anybody so probably I should not comment. In any case, I would
say that I was awestruck! The pictures are just amazing and the navigation
is convenient, easy and intuitive. Great site. It just encourages me to
spend more time on photography than the few hours that I spend with the
camera and less with the computer with which I dont spend few hours in
the day.

Gaurav

 -Original Message-

 Earlier this month I did a complete re-write of my website, and
 last night
 moved the project a little nearer to completion by adding a couple more
 galleries.  I really tightened up on the rather ramshackle nature of the
 earlier site, and have been more vigorous in editing images and have
 greatly reduced the number of photos, hopefully showing just the best of
 each category.  I still have one more gallery to add - general wildlife
 images (mostly squirrels, frogs, and a few deer) but otherwise
 the page is
 pretty complete.

 Except for a handful of images shot with a CP990, everything is done with
 Pentax gear. So - take a look. I'd appreciate any feedback about
 the layout
 and content. (I took Shel's advice and changed the background to an ~18%
 grey, which works pretty good I think.)

 The URL is:

 http://www.markcassino.com

 Tally-ho -

 MCC
 - - - - - - - - - -
 Mark Cassino
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Re: What M42 camera has the best viewfinder?

2002-04-24 Thread Bob Rapp

Hi Frank,
You will be disappointed as the screen for the Spotmatics is much larger
than that of the later cameras. I have a frame, pentaprism etc in front of
me. One thing I noticed, it is possible to convert the Spotmatic to a full
farme view finder (with the exception of the diagonal corners). You would
have to give up the meter mask (JCO yanks the batteries anyway), but it is
doable.

Bob Rapp

From: Frantisek Vlcek [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 trimmed modern focusing screen (e.g. LX screen) (I am already into the
 SP1000's innards as I am doing a bit of CLA to it)
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Re: Bummer! Anyone have any ideas what went wrong?

2002-04-24 Thread Antti-Pekka Virjonen

At 07:31 24.4.2002 -0400, you wrote:
I did use the 400 film first - then switched to Velvia.  I have never used 
the manual ISO setting, but I also never checked the ISO setting after I 
changed to the Velvia.  It never even occurred to me.  It makes sense that 
that is what might have happened.  I just put in a roll of 200 print film to 
see if that works, and the ISO setting does register as 200.  When I 
originally changed from 400 to Velvia, it was a very damp and cold day.  
Maybe that made a difference as far as the camera setting staying at 400.  
Thanks so much for getting back to me.  I will definitely check now each time 
I put new film in the camera.  

Also, you should have seen the same kind of exposure time / aperture settings
when you shot with Velvia compared to Provia 400F if the ISO setting was wrong.
Between ISO 50 and ISO 400, there is a 3 f-stop difference which is quite easy
to notice if you shot the both speeds within a short time of similar subjects
in similar light conditions.

Antti-Pekka

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* Computec Oy Turku* FIN-20750 Turku Finland * Fax: +358 10 264 0777 *
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Technical query: LX

2002-04-24 Thread mike wilson

Hi,

Having finally got some time to take more than the odd picture,
I discover a problem with my LX, recently (in terms of films
used but not time) serviced.

Using A or shutter speeds lower than X, the mirror locks up and
the shutter stays open.  Viewfinder LEDs do not flicker and
changing batteries does not change the behaviour.  It _seems_
that the batteries are losing power during storage, also.  This
may be due to me not noticing the syndrome at first and leaving
the camera with mirror up and shutter open.  Same effect with
different lenses.  To my embarrassment, I first noticed this
problem some months ago but did not realise how serious it was.

It seems to me that the electro part of the shutter is not
getting a close signal.  I assume this is a problem created
during the servicing.

It is _not_ normal sticky mirror or flat batteries.

Anyone got any other ideas?

mike
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Re: Henri Cartier-Bresson

2002-04-24 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

Why, the Pentax of course!  :)

Collin

**
From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

Which Ms are better?  Pentax M lenses or Leica M lenses? 

Collin Brendemuehl wrote: 
 
 Perhaps.  But are the lenses really that good? 
 I'll bet the M's are better! 

--

Collin Brendemuehl, KC8TKA

---
Get over it.
Dr. Laura

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Was anyone else paying attention to this one?

2002-04-24 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1346937180

Not a great body, but a good price for the lens,
despite cosmetics.

--

Collin Brendemuehl, KC8TKA

---
Get over it.
Dr. Laura

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Re: Technical query: LX

2002-04-24 Thread Antti-Pekka Virjonen

It still is the sticky mirror problem. I have seen this happen
on a couple of used LX bodies which I have tried. The mirror mechanism
sticks to the upper position.

Antti-Pekka

At 12:59 24.4.2002 +0100, you wrote:
Hi,

Having finally got some time to take more than the odd picture,
I discover a problem with my LX, recently (in terms of films
used but not time) serviced.

Using A or shutter speeds lower than X, the mirror locks up and
the shutter stays open.  Viewfinder LEDs do not flicker and
changing batteries does not change the behaviour.  It _seems_
that the batteries are losing power during storage, also.  This
may be due to me not noticing the syndrome at first and leaving
the camera with mirror up and shutter open.  Same effect with
different lenses.  To my embarrassment, I first noticed this
problem some months ago but did not realise how serious it was.

It seems to me that the electro part of the shutter is not
getting a close signal.  I assume this is a problem created
during the servicing.

It is _not_ normal sticky mirror or flat batteries.

Anyone got any other ideas?

mike
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* Computec Oy Turku* FIN-20750 Turku Finland * Fax: +358 10 264 0777 *
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Re: Vivitar Series 1 28mm F1.9

2002-04-24 Thread Steve Larson

Hi JCO,
 It is a sweet little gem. It`s my night wide. A little soft wide open,
but great contrast and color. Sharp as a Tak stopped down a
little. Flare resistance is real good. It has a two speed focus
mechanism, when you turn the focus ring all the way from
CF to infinity you can feel it engage about 2/3rds of the way,
that is normal, so don`t be alarmed. Vivitar made a 58mm
wide all metal round hood that works nicely on it, I have a pic
of the hood if you`re interested and want to try and find one.
As far as I know, all the VS1 28/1.9`s are VMC
multi-coated, and a pretty good coating it is.
Steve Larson
Redondo Beach, California
- Original Message - 
From: J. C. O'Connell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 7:43 PM
Subject: Vivitar Series 1 28mm F1.9


 Speaking of wide angles, I bought a Vivitar
 Series 1 28mm F1.9 VMC M42 off ebay today ($99).
 This lens should be quite a lot easier to focus
 than Pentax's 28 3.5 since its 1.5 stops faster.
 I've wanted one of these to try for a long time.
 
 Anyone else have any experience with this lens?
 Sharpness, contrast, flare resistance. It is multi-coated.
 JCO
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Re: Technical query: LX

2002-04-24 Thread Pål Audun Jensen

It is a switch that's broken. Fairly common with LX bodies. It happened to 
mine after being (mis)used for 19 years.
Fairly cheap to fix and should be within the cost of a regular CLA.

Pål



Mike wrote:


Having finally got some time to take more than the odd picture,
I discover a problem with my LX, recently (in terms of films
used but not time) serviced.

Using A or shutter speeds lower than X, the mirror locks up and
the shutter stays open.  Viewfinder LEDs do not flicker and
changing batteries does not change the behaviour.  It _seems_
that the batteries are losing power during storage, also.  This
may be due to me not noticing the syndrome at first and leaving
the camera with mirror up and shutter open.  Same effect with
different lenses.  To my embarrassment, I first noticed this
problem some months ago but did not realise how serious it was.

It seems to me that the electro part of the shutter is not
getting a close signal.  I assume this is a problem created
during the servicing.

It is _not_ normal sticky mirror or flat batteries.

Anyone got any other ideas?
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Re: Why Convert a Pentax Spotmeter V.....

2002-04-24 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Len Paris
Subject: Re: Why Convert a Pentax Spotmeter V.


 Isn't the V the current model?  I see them around for sale
brand
 new.  Yes, I know about the digital Spotmeter, but I thought
the
 V was still being produced.

Fred wants a Zone VI modified. If Calumet is no longer
converting Spotmeter V's, then the digital meter is the way to
go.
Fred, did you check to see if they will still convert a meter if
you send it to them?

William Robb
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Re: OT: Canadian customs information re broken gear

2002-04-24 Thread wendy beard

Rob Studdert wrote:
I've had stuff opened by customs.
When they stick their demand for money form on the parcel it will say 
either opened or unopened on the form.

Wendy

  Hi Guys,
 
  I have a problem. I sold my Polaroid SS4000 to a Canadian guy, it took 
ages to
  reach him, it was apparently stuck in customs. It left me working 
perfectly and
  in pristine condition. It now doesn't appear to work, however there was no
  signs of overly rough handling on the box (it was double boxed which 
made it a
  huge package overall) and there seems to be nothing rattling inside. It 
has a
  cold cathode tube (no filament AFAIK) for illumination which usually 
powers up
  when the on button is depressed, now nothing however the scanner is 
visible on
  the SCSI bus and controllable.
 
  It seems to me like customs may have had a peek inside to see if I was 
shipping
  more than a scanner? Does anyone know if they are in the habit of doing 
this as
  I just can't think of any other reason that it would stop working like 
this?
 
  Any suggestions?
 
  Cheers,
 
  Rob Studdert


---
Wendy Beard
Ottawa, Canada
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
home page http://www.beard-redfern.com
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Re: OT: E6 processing at home: worth my trouble for30 rolls a year?

2002-04-24 Thread Christian Skofteland

Hi Sid;

I posed this same question to the list last year and was told not to bother 
by all who responded.  I shoot 40 to 50 rolls a year.  My situation may be 
different because I use a local photo store for my processing and since they 
do E6 on the premisis my turnaround time is hours, not days at it used to be.

I do develop my own BW negatives because the chemical cost is much less and 
it is much easier.

Christian

On Friday 26 April 2002 04:27, Sid Barras wrote:
 Hi All,
 I've been  intermittently taking color photographs, mainly when I've got
 orchids in bloom, and it probably averages around 30 rolls a year. My
 question to those who may have personal experience and an opinion they'd
 like to share:

 Should I do this at home? I haven't researched even whether it's
 possible to do so.. I regard this letter as my pre-research

 The financial considerations are not insignificant, but if the start up
 cost for equipment, chemicals and processor, is less than say a couple
 of hundred bucks, I might be tempted  to start doing my own.

 I've bought several bulk rolls of slide film: a couple of my favorite,
 Velvia; but  also got a roll of Fuji MS100/1000 really cheap, as well as
 a couple of bulk rolls of Afga chrome cheap too.

 I paid handsomely for  a bulk roll of Provia, and I've still got lots of
 36 exposure rolls of Kodachrome 64 and 200 I bought from a large Kroger
 store that was discontinuing its sales of slide film (I got in date
 film, probably 75 or so rolls  for 50 cents each!! The manager's
 daughter is married to my son...)

 So, buying film is not going to be an issue in my lifetime, though space
 in my wife's freezer is

 So, can I ?   Should I?  If you were me, would you?  I do have a
 black and white darkroom, by the way, with absolutely no plans to ever
 start producing color prints in there. That's what my Mac G4, my Nikon
 LS 2000 scanner, and my epson  1280 printer are for.

 I welcome and appreciate any comments

 Sid B
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Re[2]: OT: E6 processing at home: worth my trouble for30 rolls a year?

2002-04-24 Thread Alin Flaider

JGeoffreyStevens wrote:

Jac I've also considered doing this.  The 4-6 films 'problem' does not concern
Jac me.

  Well, it does bother me, as I used to work with 14 rolls capacity
  kits. :o( 

Jac What chemicals do you use

  Till last year I used 3-step Photocolor, but I gather the
  respective British company doesn't make it anymore. Occasionally I
  use Kodak 4-step kits for 7 rolls.

Jac  and what means do you use of keeping the 
Jac temperature constant  - do you use a (Jobo) processor or a washing up bowl 
Jac filled with warm water ?

  I always used a simple bowl filled with ~40 celsius water to keep
  the temperature of the developer baths constant. It worked for me,
  the drop in temperature was negligible - around a third of degree.

Jac  Also, I've done minimal BW processing so would 
Jac this mean a long learning curve ?

  Not at all. A full round takes less than an hour. The truly critical
  step is the first development. Just make sure you pre-warm to 38
  celsius the film and developer and stir constantly. Consistency in
  this phase is the only trick.

  
  Servus, Alin
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Re: How much money spent on photography?

2002-04-24 Thread Evan Hanson

I don't know how much I've spent since 1982.  But I know I spent
a lot more before I got married and had kids ; ).

Evan

Frankie Lee wrote:
 
 Hi
 
 Just a curiosity. How much money you have spent on photography (equipment, 
accessories, film, etc.) since it became your hobby?
 
 I am a budget person and spent less than equivalent US$1500 on my gears in past few 
years. But I cannot estimate the large amount for print and slide films.
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Re: Take it back???

2002-04-24 Thread Steve Larson

SMCT 300/4 and VS1 90/2.5 macro in M42. I was funding the LX and the
K-mount stuff. The SMCT 300/4 still brings a tear to my eye.
Steve Larson
Redondo Beach, California
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 7:50 PM
Subject: Take it back???


 Here's a tough question I often ponder. What lens have you decided to sell
in
 the past  that you wish you could take back now.

 As for me, it's the 85mm F2 which might not get great results but I
wouldn't
 mind having it back and I know who has it, if I can just convince him
to
 sell it back to me
 Vic
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Re: Photos of Tulip Fields in Washington

2002-04-24 Thread Steve Larson

Simply gorgeous Harald!
Steve Larson
Redondo Beach, California
- Original Message - 
From: harald_nancy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 9:49 PM
Subject: Photos of Tulip Fields in Washington


 Hi Pentaxians,
 I just spent a few days shooting in the tulip fields
 by La Conner, Washington state. 
 The expanse of colors in the tulip fields were spectacular!
 If anyone likes to view a few photos I scanned,
 go here:
 http://www.geocities.com/harald_nancy/Tulips_2002.htm
 Photos were taken with my trusty ZX-5, Pentax 50 macro,
 Pentax 28-70, Tokina 80-200, Tokina 20-35.
 slide film Kodak Elite Chrome 100.
 Harald
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Re: Henri Cartier-Bresson

2002-04-24 Thread Paul Jones

Hi,

When i saw his exhibition from memory all the shots i saw had the sprocket
holes on the end of frame actualy on the print.  Not saying all his shots
were like this, just the ones i saw.

Regards,
Paul
- Original Message -
From: mike wilson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 5:40 PM
Subject: Re: Henri Cartier-Bresson


 Hi,

 Ann Sanfedele wrote:
  I think that is the essence of excellent photojournalism, actually.
  The photo of Bresson's that leaps into my mind first as being all those
  things is the one where a man is  is leaping above a flooded street and
  one foot is every so slightly above the water... that is a gross
oversimplification
  of what is happening, but one millisecond sooner or later and it would
  not be such a stunning picture.

 For information:  an article in (UK) Amateur Photographer some
 years ago showed that this was a crop, as were some of his other
 works.  I don't have any problem with that but it does somewhat
 explode the myth about HCB's skill in fitting all the parameters
 he (wanted/believed in) into the complete negative.

 Note:  I am _not_ belittling HCB's skill as a photographer - I
 _am_ somewhat sceptical about the promotional circus that has
 evolved around his work.

 mike
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Re: Was anyone else paying attention to this one?

2002-04-24 Thread Mishka

i did put a small bid on it, but then decided to pass since i didn't
really need this lens (although there was a great deal of temptation)

On Wed, 24 Apr 2002 07:56:05 -0400, Collin Brendemuehl
[EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1346937180
 
 Not a great body, but a good price for the lens,
 despite cosmetics.
 
 --
 
 Collin Brendemuehl, KC8TKA
 
 ---
 Get over it.
 Dr. Laura
 
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nice collectible?

2002-04-24 Thread ukasz Kacperczyk

Title says it all (it was in the rangefinder departament so maybe more
difficult to find)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1348413443
£ukasz
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RE: Henri Cartier-Bresson

2002-04-24 Thread ukasz Kacperczyk

Hear! Hear!
Lukasz

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On
Behalf Of mike wilson
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 9:40 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Henri Cartier-Bresson


Hi,

Ann Sanfedele wrote:
 I think that is the essence of excellent photojournalism, actually.
 The photo of Bresson's that leaps into my mind first as being all those
 things is the one where a man is  is leaping above a flooded street and
 one foot is every so slightly above the water... that is a gross
oversimplification
 of what is happening, but one millisecond sooner or later and it would
 not be such a stunning picture.

For information:  an article in (UK) Amateur Photographer some
years ago showed that this was a crop, as were some of his other
works.  I don't have any problem with that but it does somewhat
explode the myth about HCB's skill in fitting all the parameters
he (wanted/believed in) into the complete negative.

Note:  I am _not_ belittling HCB's skill as a photographer - I
_am_ somewhat sceptical about the promotional circus that has
evolved around his work.

mike
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Re: what a deal! (damaged P30 K135/2.5)

2002-04-24 Thread Rfsindg

Mishka,
All it takes is an ebay id to bid, and some perseverance.
I saw this yesterday and never checked the details...just let it float by!
For $46, it is a real deal for the 135mm.
Didn't you want one of those?
Regards,  Bob S.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1346937180 
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RE: Was anyone else paying attention to this one?

2002-04-24 Thread ukasz Kacperczyk

There was another post about it earlier today :)
Lukasz

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On
Behalf Of Collin Brendemuehl
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 1:56 PM
To: PDML
Subject: Was anyone else paying attention to this one?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1346937180

Not a great body, but a good price for the lens,
despite cosmetics.

--

Collin Brendemuehl, KC8TKA

---
Get over it.
Dr. Laura

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Re: Check this out

2002-04-24 Thread Steve Larson

Wow, that shot of 8 balloons is awesome!
Steve Larson
Redondo Beach, California
- Original Message - 
From: William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 10:24 PM
Subject: Check this out


 A friend of mine is back in university doing a fast track
 computer science degree.
 He just put together the following project for one of his
 classes.
 
 http://uregina.ca/~paton2sc/page1.html
 
 With fond memories of Ron, we miss you.
 
 
 William Robb
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Re: How much money spent on photography?

2002-04-24 Thread Stephen Moore

Malcolm Smith wrote:

 Way too much. My wife believes that a restoration of a Lamborghini would be
 cheaper. This would provide loads of pictures tooOuch!.Joking
 dear

If you find a nice Espada I'd be happy to team up on it...  ;-)


Stephen
__ 
You got a Zarg in here? Are you *nuts*???
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Take it back???

2002-04-24 Thread Albano_Garcia

My sold silver MX.
I miss you baby.

Albano

PS: Yes, yes, I need a girlfriend, I KNOW!
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Re: What M42 camera has the best viewfinder?

2002-04-24 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Aleksandar,

This subject arose earlier this year. I and a few others suggested thatyou consider 
the final models by Fujica. Search for Fujica in the archives. Viewfinder 
magnification was about 0.95X and some models offers LCD displays and modern metering.

[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Bring back the SMC Takumar 50/1.4 (was: Re: Henri Cartier-Bresson)

2002-04-24 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Rob Studdert wrote:  
The Leica R glass performs admirably but no better than the good Pentax glass from my 
experience. 

Several list members have remarked that the final one or two 50/1.4 Takumars were 
arguably the sharpest/best normal nonmacro lens ever made. Why didn't Pentax stick 
with this winning formula when it introduced the K mount? Why not bring out a PKA or 
FA version now and reclaim the title?

[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: Technical query: LX

2002-04-24 Thread mike wilson

Thanks, Paal.  It's what I suspect - pity it happened so shortly
(maybe only the one film, I'm not sure) after a CLA.

Haven't even had time to play with the FC/FB1 setup 8-

mike

Pål Audun Jensen wrote:
 
 It is a switch that's broken. Fairly common with LX bodies. It happened to
 mine after being (mis)used for 19 years.
 Fairly cheap to fix and should be within the cost of a regular CLA.
 
 Pål
 
 Mike wrote:
 
 Having finally got some time to take more than the odd picture,
 I discover a problem with my LX, recently (in terms of films
 used but not time) serviced.
 
 Using A or shutter speeds lower than X, the mirror locks up and
 the shutter stays open.  Viewfinder LEDs do not flicker and
 changing batteries does not change the behaviour.  It _seems_
 that the batteries are losing power during storage, also.  This
 may be due to me not noticing the syndrome at first and leaving
 the camera with mirror up and shutter open.  Same effect with
 different lenses.  To my embarrassment, I first noticed this
 problem some months ago but did not realise how serious it was.
 
 It seems to me that the electro part of the shutter is not
 getting a close signal.  I assume this is a problem created
 during the servicing.
 
 It is _not_ normal sticky mirror or flat batteries.
 
 Anyone got any other ideas?
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Re: Take it back???

2002-04-24 Thread Bill Owens

 Albano
 
 PS: Yes, yes, I need a girlfriend, I KNOW!

Cameras are cheaper!

Bill  KG4LOV
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Henri Cartier-Bresson

2002-04-24 Thread Rob Studdert

On 24 Apr 2002 at 5:54, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 In a message dated 24/04/02 05:33:44 GMT Daylight Time, Rob writes:
 
  All their R 
  glass
  is over sized and overweight IMHO. The Leica R glass performs admirably but no
  better than the good Pentax glass from my experience. 
 
 I have a 135mm F2.8 here, in R. Tipping the scales at only 720 grammes. 
 What's the weight on an 85 1.4 A*, Rob?

Hi Peter,

My scales put the A*85/1.4 at 559gm A*135f1.8 at 878gm, the K135f2.5 at 504gm 
and the Leica-M 90f2 APO ASPH at 480gm.

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: Vivitar Series 1 28mm F1.9

2002-04-24 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

JCO wrote, 
Anyone else have any experience with this lens? 
Sharpness, contrast, flare resistance. It is multi-coated. 
 
- 
JCO,
It doesn't take much to start me raving about this lens. On a recent roll of Fuji NPZ 
800 shot at 2000 and pushed 2 stops, I had taken five shots of coworkers at an indoor 
Christmas lunch. When I examined the JPEGs, I didn't feel that any tweaking was 
needed to their sharpness, contrast, or color.

I have the K-mount version, which is far harder to obtain. If anyone wants one, I have 
a URL at home to a Russian site that has one for, as I recall, about $120, maybe less.

The front element rotates, so forget about polarizers or noncircular hoods. Vivitar 
made a circular hood for it that says something like Auto Wide. Steve Larson sent me a 
photo. I use an Adorama-brand circular metal hood, but it's a big monster; a step-up 
ring may be a more appropriate choice for the camera bag.

Unfortunately, the focusing ring turns the wrong way from Pentax. Owning as I do 
several Vivitars and several Pentaxes, I've come to understand why some list members 
have decided not to buy such lenses; it does get confusing.

The SMC 28/2K might be sharper stopped down, but the Vivitar strikes me as sharper 
from f/2 to f/4. And the colors are simply beautiful, suffering not at all from the 
palish color evinced by other Kino-made lenses. I'm actually selling my Pentax SMC 
28/2K, which I had bought later. Sorry, there are two or three prospective buyers 
already (including the one who has been testing it against the Vivitarhint, hint).

[EMAIL PROTECTED]




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Re: Take it back???

2002-04-24 Thread Robert Harris

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 What lens have you decided to sell in 
 the past  that you wish you could take back now.

About 8 years ago I shifted to auto-focus to accommodate aging eyes. And 
I was moving to Russia and wanted to limit what I took with me. So I 
sold off most of my A lenses.

I am really sorry I unloaded a couple of gems  -- the A 85 f1.4, the A 
300 f 4.0 and the A 70-210 f4.0.

(Also sold the A135 f1.8, but since it was too heavy for me to ever 
carry and it did not see much use, I do not miss it.)

And when I look at current prices compared to what I got selling them I 
want to cry. :)

Bob
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Re: Why Convert a Pentax Spotmeter V.....

2002-04-24 Thread Shel Belinkoff

It is.

Len Paris wrote:
 
 Isn't the V the current model?  ...
 I thought the V was still being produced.

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/darkroom-rentals/index.html
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Tokina wide primes?

2002-04-24 Thread Debra Wilborn

How does Tokina's 24mm 2.8 stack up against other
primes?  I was thinking about picking one up and
obviously don't want a lemon.

Thanks,
Deb
Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more
http://games.yahoo.com/
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Re: RE: How much money spent on photography?

2002-04-24 Thread Pentxuser

Of course, way too much. It helps to make a little money on the side from the 
camera to help justify it. But this is a question I ask myself all the 
time... Am I spending too much. I spend a fraction compared to some of my 
friends in the Canon world that are always buying the latest and greatest. 
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Re: PUG ?

2002-04-24 Thread Ann Sanfedele

If you use the auto-pug submission I believe you can submit
for July now  - then you won't forget! :)
annsan the helpful


Antti-Pekka Virjonen wrote:
 
 At 14:10 23.4.2002 +0100, you wrote:
 Try 'Comets and Star Clusters, June 2006'
 
 ;-)
 
 Cotty
 
 Yea, I have already waited quite a many years to get anything
 scanned for the PUG, so a couple more will do fine ;-)
 
 I guess it will be the next free gallery then. If I don't forget...
 
 Antti-Pekka
 
 ---
 * Antti-Pekka Virjonen * Fiskarsinkatu 7 D   * GSM: +358 500 789 753 *
 * Computec Oy Turku* FIN-20750 Turku Finland * Fax: +358 10 264 0777 *
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Help w/ price on lens

2002-04-24 Thread TM

Hi-
Is $85 for a SMC-A 28mm f2.8 w/ caps in exc. condition a decent price?

KEH's bargain condition is $105, so

Thanks,
Taka
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Re: OT: E6 processing at home: worth my trouble for30 rolls a year?

2002-04-24 Thread JGeoffreyStevens

Alin,

Thanks for the info.

Well, it does bother me, as I used to work with 14 rolls capacitykits. :o( 

Have you tried the 
Tetenal kits ?  They look as though they area available in small pack sizes.

Geoff
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Re: Help w/ price on lens

2002-04-24 Thread Christian Skofteland

Well it's less than KEH's price  what condition is it in?

Christian

On Wednesday 24 April 2002 11:33, you wrote:
 Hi-
 Is $85 for a SMC-A 28mm f2.8 w/ caps in exc. condition a decent price?

 KEH's bargain condition is $105, so

 Thanks,
 Taka
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Re: Take it back???

2002-04-24 Thread Evan Hanson

Carl Zeiss 135M Sonnar and the Contax 159mm to which it was
attached.  That lens was one of the sharpest and most contrasty
I've ever used.

Evan 

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Here's a tough question I often ponder. What lens have you decided to sell in
 the past  that you wish you could take back now.
 
 As for me, it's the 85mm F2 which might not get great results but I wouldn't
 mind having it back and I know who has it, if I can just convince him to
 sell it back to me
 Vic
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RE: Help w/ price on lens

2002-04-24 Thread TM

Excellent condition, supposed to be mark-free. Looks decent in the photo
I saw, but
can't be certain.

Taka

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Christian Skofteland
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 11:40 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Help w/ price on lens


Well it's less than KEH's price  what condition is it in?

Christian

On Wednesday 24 April 2002 11:33, you wrote:
 Hi-
 Is $85 for a SMC-A 28mm f2.8 w/ caps in exc. condition a decent price?

 KEH's bargain condition is $105, so

 Thanks,
 Taka
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Re: Website Update

2002-04-24 Thread Evan Hanson

As always Mark great stuff, the only thing I miss is information
on which lens was used for the photographs.

Evan

Mark Cassino wrote:
 
 Earlier this month I did a complete re-write of my website, and last night
 moved the project a little nearer to completion by adding a couple more
 galleries.  I really tightened up on the rather ramshackle nature of the
 earlier site, and have been more vigorous in editing images and have
 greatly reduced the number of photos, hopefully showing just the best of
 each category.  I still have one more gallery to add - general wildlife
 images (mostly squirrels, frogs, and a few deer) but otherwise the page is
 pretty complete.
 
 Except for a handful of images shot with a CP990, everything is done with
 Pentax gear. So - take a look. I'd appreciate any feedback about the layout
 and content. (I took Shel's advice and changed the background to an ~18%
 grey, which works pretty good I think.)
 
 The URL is:
 
 http://www.markcassino.com
 
 Tally-ho -
 
 MCC
 - - - - - - - - - -
 Mark Cassino
 Kalamazoo, MI
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 - - - - - - - - - -
 Photos:
 http://www.markcassino.com
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Re: duplicate posts

2002-04-24 Thread Ann Sanfedele

Bob Rapp wrote:
 
 Ann,
 You can get duplicate posts if you manually disconnect prior to your
 programme clearing the downloaded messages off your email server. With a
 long list of messages, this can take some time. If you don't wait, they are
 still there waiting for your next access.
 
 Hope this helps,
 
 Bob

Bob, thanks!

Actually, it _did_ disconnect on it's own while I was downloading. GOt a
pop up message from the mail server and restarted it.  I thought I had
done that before with no dups coming up , but guess not. 

annsan

 - Original Message -
 From: Ann Sanfedele [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 2:02 AM
 Subject: Re:duplicate posts
 
  EVerything in my PUG folder just came up in duplicate
  anyone else have this problem?
  annsan
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Re: Help w/ price on lens

2002-04-24 Thread Christian Skofteland

In my opinion KEH is reasonable with their pricing.  I've bought Bargain 
grade stuff from them all the time and it has been in very good condition.

Looks like the price is right.  Of course, I know nothing about the lens in 
question so I'm not sure if there are better 28mm out there for less money.

Christian

On Wednesday 24 April 2002 11:46, you wrote:
 Excellent condition, supposed to be mark-free. Looks decent in the photo
 I saw, but
 can't be certain.

 Taka

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Christian Skofteland
 Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 11:40 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: Help w/ price on lens


 Well it's less than KEH's price  what condition is it in?

 Christian

 On Wednesday 24 April 2002 11:33, you wrote:
  Hi-
  Is $85 for a SMC-A 28mm f2.8 w/ caps in exc. condition a decent price?
 
  KEH's bargain condition is $105, so
 
  Thanks,
  Taka
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Re: Henri Cartier-Bresson

2002-04-24 Thread Ann Sanfedele

mike wilson wrote:
 
 Hi,
 

 For information:  an article in (UK) Amateur Photographer some
 years ago showed that this was a crop, as were some of his other
 works.  

I imagine I knew that at one time :)

 
 Note:  I am _not_ belittling HCB's skill as a photographer - I
 _am_ somewhat sceptical about the promotional circus that has
 evolved around his work.
 
 mike
 -
As with Adams.  The music goes round and round.

ann

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Re: The oddest 35mm body ...

2002-04-24 Thread Anthony Farr

Reducing to 35mm on a standard lens equipped MF camera is an economical way
to get a portrait camera.  This one was IMO probably used for shopping mall
baby portraits or school portraits, where the long roll would be a distinct
advantage.

Regards,
Anthony Farr


- Original Message -
From: Collin Brendemuehl [EMAIL PROTECTED]


 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1348399449

 This should especially interest those who are getting into medium format!

 But what would you use it for?

 KC8TKA
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RE: Help w/ price on lens

2002-04-24 Thread TM

My real hesitation is that I really want a 24mm lens and am also looking
at the Tokina AT-X 24-40mm f2.8 zoom.

According to the various lens review sites, the -A isn't anything to
write
home about, but considering the price, I'm tempted.

The 24mm f2.8s that KEH has are much more expensive- around $265-300.

Unfortunately, I haven't seen a 24mm f2.8 Pentax SMC for sale on ebay.

Taka
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Pentax PZ-1 tune-up

2002-04-24 Thread Joe Wilensky

I'm expecting my PZ-1 back from Pentax in Colorado today; I bought it 
used just a couple of months ago and sent it in primarily to replace 
the viewfinder eyepiece, which had multiple scratches on it in a 
rectangular pattern. I know this is typical of the PZ-1/PZ-1p 
eyepiece, since it is plastic, unfortunately, and not glass.

My question is, for other Z- and PZ-series owners: How do you clean 
the eyepiece without scratching it? Or do you clean it at all?

Also, on another note: One of the few advantages the PZ-1 has over 
the 1p (at least for some users) is the interval timer function. I'm 
wondering what people have used it for. What are some really 
interesting applications for this timer function?

Joe
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Pentax Program Plus

2002-04-24 Thread James Adams

I just won a really nice Pentax Program Plus on Ebay for $102.51. Just hope
it's as good as the photos.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1346999652

James
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OT: Mark's Website

2002-04-24 Thread T Rittenhouse

The reason it is recommended not to use strange typefaces is because, the
viewer probably does not have them on his computer and they will be changed
to some default you have no control over. However, in Mark's case he is
using .jpg images for those, so that is not a problem. He could also have
used transparent .gif images to desplay the type with out the black
background he has, as I did with my Logo(Title) on my home page. The
typeface fits the image of his site perfectly, and I imagine he thought long
and hard about what to use. OTOH, I tend to agree about the triangles.

The only other design decision I disagee with is that it is set up for an
800 pixel screen width, I would have set it up for 640 myself.

Ciao,
Graywolf
http://pages.prodigy.net/graywolfphoto



- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 10:14 AM
Subject: Re: Website Update


 Hi, Mark.
 I would change the tipography. Fantasy types should be used just with
 certain specific purposes, but avoided if possible. I would use a good.
 designed family type, and sans serif (Univers, Helvetica, etc), or a
 serif one, but good, and classic.
 I like the overall simple design, but I would change the type, and just as
 a suggestion, for the main home page, I wolud put the sections titles in a
 single line, over a black rectangle under the photos (like the one above
 the photos with the title, with same lenght, but not as tall). I hope you
 understand what I'm trying to say, it's hard to explain with words. Also,
I
 would quit the triangles in the title, but this is just my pov. They work
 well in the galleries with the functionality of arrows, but I don't think
 they add something in the title. FWIW, I'm an advanced university student
 of graphic design.

 In regard to your photos, they are simply superb. I loved the lighthouses,
 specially dappled rippled lights and the green green sand of home.
Also
 liked your landscapes, and the cat's photo vigilant, it's excellent.
Your
 macro work is tops too, great quality stuff.
 Nature is awesomely beautifull, isn't it?
 Regards and congrats

 Albano
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Re: duplicate posts

2002-04-24 Thread T Rittenhouse

When I tried out Pegasus the one thing I really liked about it is that it
deleted each message on the server after downloading it, before retrieving
the next message. That eliminated those kind of problems.

Ciao,
Graywolf
http://pages.prodigy.net/graywolfphoto



- Original Message -
From: Ann Sanfedele [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 11:51 AM
Subject: Re: duplicate posts


 Bob Rapp wrote:
 
  Ann,
  You can get duplicate posts if you manually disconnect prior to your
  programme clearing the downloaded messages off your email server. With a
  long list of messages, this can take some time. If you don't wait, they
are
  still there waiting for your next access.
 
  Hope this helps,
 
  Bob

 Bob, thanks!

 Actually, it _did_ disconnect on it's own while I was downloading. GOt a
 pop up message from the mail server and restarted it.  I thought I had
 done that before with no dups coming up , but guess not.

 annsan

  - Original Message -
  From: Ann Sanfedele [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 2:02 AM
  Subject: Re:duplicate posts
 
   EVerything in my PUG folder just came up in duplicate
   anyone else have this problem?
   annsan
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Re: T-Max is pink?

2002-04-24 Thread Anthony Farr

Fresh standard fixer shouldn't take longer than 3 minutes to clear film and
therefore 6 minutes to fix.  Used fixer is exhausted when the clearing time
reaches double the original time for fresh solution.  If your fixer took 8
minutes to clear (half of 16 minutes) then it was exhausted.  You didn't say
which dilution you use your Agefix at.  I use the stronger dilution (1:4
IIRC) which gives times in the rapid fixer range.

Rapid fixer works twice as fast so the times above need to be halved.  The
common wisdom is that Tmax films prefer rapid fixers in very fresh
condition.  I personally would reject the fixer if clearing time was more
than 50% over the original time (no scientific basis, just building in a
generous safety factor).  My Tmax negs are neutral grey and have clear
rebates.

Regards,
Anthony Farr


- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]



 Hi, gang
 Yesterday, I developed a roll of TMZ in HC-110. When I finished fixing it
I
 noticed it was pink. My friend told me that the base of T-Max emulsions is
 pink, and that it makes it looks as if it were not correctly fixed, and
 gives headaches to novices thinking they are doing it wrong. Is it true?
 I fixed it in Agefix for 16 minutes (I tested with the film leader and
gave
 twice that time to the roll).
 Regards

 AG
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Re: Hood depth

2002-04-24 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Andre wrote:
I checked at home and it has a 86mm thread.  No common step-up (to  
86mm) are made. Only the expensive Contax ones... 

The HN-13 is listed as a 72mm hood at 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1347563564

and it looks to be about the same diameter front and back. I thought I've seen it as 
72mm elsewhere, too. Are you sure about the 86mm? Are you saying it's 86mm if you 
don't use the polarizer, but 72mm if you do?

[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: Technical query: LX

2002-04-24 Thread andre

Using A or shutter speeds lower than X, the mirror locks up and
the shutter stays open.  Viewfinder LEDs do not flicker and
changing batteries does not change the behaviour.  It _seems_
that the batteries are losing power during storage, also.  This
may be due to me not noticing the syndrome at first and leaving
the camera with mirror up and shutter open.  Same effect with
different lenses.  To my embarrassment, I first noticed this
problem some months ago but did not realise how serious it was.

It seems to me that the electro part of the shutter is not
getting a close signal.  I assume this is a problem created
during the servicing.

It is _not_ normal sticky mirror or flat batteries.

Anyone got any other ideas?

mike

I'm following the discussion as one of my LX has been returned to 
Pentax after a CLA because it would stay anormally opened (a few 
seconds) at 1/75.  Quite often...

The body has been redone and now the problem is no more at 1/75 but 
with 1/60 and lower speeds.  It stays open a few or many seconds, 
occasionally.  I cannot predict it.   As it's not under warranty any 
more, I only use it over 1/75 (for shows with fast lenses).   Is 
there an easy (cheap) cure, or should I stick with my recipe (to use 
it only at higher speeds) as I have other fully functional bodies ?

Andre
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RE: Website Update

2002-04-24 Thread Cotty

Mark,

Had a look around your website. It's marvellous!

Very easily navigated, and some stunning work. I enjoyed everything, 
especially the landscapes. Your macro work is first class. I particularly 
like the website design. I'm so glad you didn't use light text on a dark 
(or black) background - am I the only guy in the world who hates this? It 
looks nice when the page pops up, but after a few minutes of reading, it 
makes my eyes go weird.

The grey bacground works really well, and you have a good eye for design: 
the layout is superb. In fact you have inspired me to do something 
similar, and I now plan to have a major session with my higgledy-piggledy 
site this summer.

Well done mate.

Cotty

PS - nice self portrait you handsome dog you.

___
Personal email traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
MacAds traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Check out the UK Macintosh ads 
http://www.macads.co.uk
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@ Lunch

2002-04-24 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

Picked up something neat today,
if anyone is interested. 
Twelve (12) rolls, 400ft, of 16mm film.
A couple of them are negative film, 
but most are Ektachrome.

$7 each.

Collin

--

Collin Brendemuehl, KC8TKA

---
Get over it.
Dr. Laura

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RE: OT: Canadian customs information re broken gear

2002-04-24 Thread Ryan Charron

Hi Wendy,

Well, guess what?
About 6 months ago, I sold my Nikon Coolscan III to
someone in the US from here in Canada and when it got
to him, he said it wasn't working. I forgot to place a
shipping screw in the area you place the film / slide 
holder, although the other shipping screw was in
place.
Turns out after a little checking up on my part, that
it was absolutely true and Nikon charged him over $300
to repair it and guess who was stuck with most of the
bill? Me, myself and I.
My replacement scanner was the Polaroid Sprintscan
4000.
No shipping screws are even needed with it.

The moral of the story is that Nikon Scanners Are Very
Delicate. I'm not so sure the missing shipping screw
did it, it was packed so well. 
So, Beware of Shipping Nikon Scanners or even bumping
them too hard for that matter.

I don't think Canada or US Customs was the problem,
unless they have a practice of giving boxes that say
Fragile a nice Big Kick.

A Fellow Pentaxian,
Ryan Charron 

Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 08:31:34 -0400
From: wendy beard [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT: Canadian customs information re
broken gear

Rob Studdert wrote:
I've had stuff opened by customs.
When they stick their demand for money form on the
parcel it will say 
either opened or unopened on the form.

Wendy

  Hi Guys,
 
  I have a problem. I sold my Polaroid SS4000 to a
Canadian guy, it 
took 
ages to
  reach him, it was apparently stuck in customs. It
left me working 
perfectly and
  in pristine condition. It now doesn't appear to
work, however there 
was no
  signs of overly rough handling on the box (it was
double boxed which 
made it a
  huge package overall) and there seems to be nothing
rattling inside. 
It 
has a
  cold cathode tube (no filament AFAIK) for
illumination which usually 
powers up
  when the on button is depressed, now nothing
however the scanner is 
visible on
  the SCSI bus and controllable.
 
  It seems to me like customs may have had a peek
inside to see if I 
was 
shipping
  more than a scanner? Does anyone know if they are
in the habit of 
doing 
this as
  I just can't think of any other reason that it
would stop working 
like 
this?
 
  Any suggestions?
 
  Cheers,
 
  Rob Studdert


- ---
Wendy Beard
Ottawa, Canada
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
home page http://www.beard-redfern.com
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Re[2]: OT: Agfapan APX 100 Pro film.

2002-04-24 Thread Bruce Dayton

Aaron,

I have sent the negative off to Shel, and hopefully he can ascertain
whether it was overdeveloped or not.  After that, I may be able to
find out from the lab more specifics.  I'll keep you posted.

Thanks,


Bruce



Tuesday, April 23, 2002, 3:58:24 PM, you wrote:

AR On Tuesday, April 23, 2002, at 02:02  AM, Paul Stenquist wrote:

 I've found that almost any general purpose developer, like HC-110, will
 provide good results with almost all BW films. I'd bet they
 overdeveloped it. That'll give you contrasty and heavy for sure.

AR Sorry to chime in so late on this one, but it sounds like that to me, 
AR too.

AR Can you wrangle out of the lab their time/temp for APX 100?  Should be 
AR around 7 min.  21 C.

AR I processed a fair amount of 4x5 APX 100 in HC-110 dilution B, and the 
AR results were uniformly excellent, particularly tonal range.

AR How is the base density of the neg?  APX 100 should be virtually clear 
AR where there is no exposure.

AR -Aaron
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Split Image Or Not Split Image

2002-04-24 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Hi Everyone,

Back after a nice break in NYC :) 

I've been recently trying out (i.e. I bought one but now I'm going to sell it) a 
Leica M6 and I've grown to thinking:

as a current K1000 owner I never gave much thought about split image finders but after 
using the Leica and my little Canonet I've thought more about the SLR Split Image 
finders.

Do any of you prefer the Split Image over the other finders ?
What cameras do you use that have the split image finders if any ?

I've been considering a second SLR body to go with the K1000 that may have this 
feature.

All responses appreciated

Cheers,
Dave


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Re: Split Image Or Not Split Image

2002-04-24 Thread Shel Belinkoff

I prefer the split image finder in many instances, but it really depends
on the lens and the speed of the lens.  With slower lenses the finder
sometimes blacks out.  However, the finders with a microprism grid
around them are especially useful.

The LX and the MX offer the option of changing focusing screens, so the
screen can almost always be changed to better match the lens being used
and the situation and subject.

I'm looking for an M6.  Please contact me off list with the details. 
Thanks!

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Hi Everyone,
 
 Back after a nice break in NYC :)
 
 I've been recently trying out (i.e. I bought one but now I'm going to sell it) a 
Leica M6 and I've grown to thinking:
 
 as a current K1000 owner I never gave much thought about split image finders but 
after using the Leica and my little Canonet I've thought more about the SLR Split 
Image finders.
 
 Do any of you prefer the Split Image over the other finders ?
 What cameras do you use that have the split image finders if any ?

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: Hood depth

2002-04-24 Thread Paris, Leonard

Is there a formula for calculating the maximum depth of the hood, given the
focal length of a lens in millimeters, it's maximum aperture diameter also
in millimeters, and the diameter of the hood in millimeters?

If there is, it would make it a lot easier to find the optimum hood for any
given lens.  I guess that it could be figured out graphically using the
angle of view of a lens, as well but, rather than reinventing the wheel,
perhaps someone already has the formulae at hand.

Len
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Re: Help w/ price on lens

2002-04-24 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: TM
Subject: RE: Help w/ price on lens


 My real hesitation is that I really want a 24mm lens and am
also looking
 at the Tokina AT-X 24-40mm f2.8 zoom.

Make sure you can live with barrel distortion. This lens has
plenty of it, at all focal lengths. I sold mine because it was
useless.

William Robb
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Re: Why Convert a Pentax Spotmeter V.....

2002-04-24 Thread Fred

 then does anyone know of a source for a Zone VI modified Pentax
 Spotmeter V ?

 Ebay???

Hi, William.

Yes, there always is (and will always be) eBay, I guess...  ;-)

However, I already have a Spotmeter V, and I was hoping to get it
converted, which I believe Zone VI would have done, but I don't
think Calumet will do it...

Fred
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Re[2]: OT: E6 processing at home: worth my trouble for30 rolls a year?

2002-04-24 Thread JGeoffreyStevens

Alin,

Thanks for the info.

Well, it does bother me, as I used to work with 14 rolls capacitykits. :o( 

Have you tried the Tetenal kits ? 
They look as though they are available in small pack sizes.

Geoff
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Re: Why Convert a Pentax Spotmeter V.....

2002-04-24 Thread Fred

 Isn't the V the current model?  I see them around for sale brand
 new.  Yes, I know about the digital Spotmeter, but I thought the
 V was still being produced.

Hi, Len.  Yes, I think the (analog) V is still available.  (I have
one already, though, so I wasn't actually looking to buy a new one.)
I had the thought of looking into having it modified into a Zone VI
spotmeter (which I think is something Zone VI used to do).  However,
it appears to me that Calumet (who, I guess, bought out Zone VI) is
only selling new modified Pentax ~Digital~ Spotmeters, and is not
handling the (analog) Pentax Spotmeter V at all.

Fred
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Re: Hood depth

2002-04-24 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Check out the Contax Hack page ... don't have the URL handy, but a
Google search should turn it up.  They have some lens hood information
there and, iirc, a way of determining optimum hood diameter/depth.

Paris, Leonard wrote:
 
 Is there a formula for calculating the maximum depth of the hood, given the
 focal length of a lens in millimeters, it's maximum aperture diameter also
 in millimeters, and the diameter of the hood in millimeters?

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: @ Lunch

2002-04-24 Thread James Adams

This 16mm camera - a Pentacon K-16 camera, is on sale from Melbourne  
in  Australia (6 days 11+  hrs to run):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1348500164


- Original Message - 
From: Collin Brendemuehl [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 10:01 AM
Subject: @ Lunch


 Picked up something neat today,
 if anyone is interested. 
 Twelve (12) rolls, 400ft, of 16mm film.
 A couple of them are negative film, 
 but most are Ektachrome.
 
 $7 each.
 
 Collin
 
 --
 
 Collin Brendemuehl, KC8TKA
 
 ---
 Get over it.
 Dr. Laura
 
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Re: Why Convert a Pentax Spotmeter V.....

2002-04-24 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Hi Fred,

Contact Richard Ritter at: http://www.lg4mat.net/

He may be able to modify your meter or point you in the direction of one
that you can purchase.  The web site lists his credentials, which are
probably adequate g.

Fred wrote:

 However, I already have a Spotmeter V, and I was hoping to get it
 converted, which I believe Zone VI would have done, but I don't
 think Calumet will do it...


-- 
Shel Belinkoff
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RE: Split Image Or Not Split Image

2002-04-24 Thread Paris, Leonard

With SLRs, how effective (accurate) split image finders are depends on the
focal length and aperture of the lens you are using. You'll find them pretty
much useless at extremes, long tele or ultra wide.  That's why cameras like
the LX allow you to change focussing screens so that you can use the optimum
type for the lens in use at the time.

With rangefinder cameras, it's a bit different, the rangefinder can be much
more accurate than any split image screen in an SLR.  Furthermore, it
retains its accuracy with all of the lenses that can be used directly on the
camera, and is totally independent of focal length and aperture.

Len
---

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 12:06 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Split Image Or Not Split Image


Hi Everyone,

Back after a nice break in NYC :) 

I've been recently trying out (i.e. I bought one but now I'm going to sell
it) a Leica M6 and I've grown to thinking:

as a current K1000 owner I never gave much thought about split image finders
but after using the Leica and my little Canonet I've thought more about the
SLR Split Image finders.

Do any of you prefer the Split Image over the other finders ?
What cameras do you use that have the split image finders if any ?

I've been considering a second SLR body to go with the K1000 that may have
this feature.

All responses appreciated

Cheers,
Dave
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Re: Why Convert a Pentax Spotmeter V.....

2002-04-24 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Fred
Subject: Re: Why Convert a Pentax Spotmeter V.



 However, I already have a Spotmeter V, and I was hoping to get
it
 converted, which I believe Zone VI would have done, but I
don't
 think Calumet will do it...

Give them a phone call. They might surprise you
Bill
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RE: Re[2]: OT: E6 processing at home: worth my trouble for30 rolls a year?

2002-04-24 Thread Malcolm Smith

I saw a piece of Kodak E6 processing equipment in a library book (since
returned) a few days back. You loaded one slide film into it in darkroom
conditions and closed the lid. An hour later the film was ready to mount.

The book was about 8 years old. The slide developer was aimed at the serious
amateur. Anyone have any experience with one? Were they OK, or were they
poor?

It seemed a good idea, for low volume development.

Malcolm
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RE: Why Convert a Pentax Spotmeter V.....

2002-04-24 Thread Paris, Leonard

That would be a shame because the new Zone VI meters are extremely
expensive, to me.  I can't justify sinking over $600 in a meter even though
it's the most accurate, color corrected meter available.  If I could send
them a V and get it modified for a reasonable price, I'd do it too.

Len
---

-Original Message-
From: Fred [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 6:48 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Why Convert a Pentax Spotmeter V.


 Isn't the V the current model?  I see them around for sale brand
 new.  Yes, I know about the digital Spotmeter, but I thought the
 V was still being produced.

Hi, Len.  Yes, I think the (analog) V is still available.  (I have
one already, though, so I wasn't actually looking to buy a new one.)
I had the thought of looking into having it modified into a Zone VI
spotmeter (which I think is something Zone VI used to do).  However,
it appears to me that Calumet (who, I guess, bought out Zone VI) is
only selling new modified Pentax ~Digital~ Spotmeters, and is not
handling the (analog) Pentax Spotmeter V at all.

Fred
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RE: Hood depth

2002-04-24 Thread Paris, Leonard

Great!  Thanks!  I'll head that way.

Len
---

-Original Message-
From: Shel Belinkoff [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 9:37 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Hood depth


Check out the Contax Hack page ... don't have the URL handy, but a
Google search should turn it up.  They have some lens hood information
there and, iirc, a way of determining optimum hood diameter/depth.

Paris, Leonard wrote:
 
 Is there a formula for calculating the maximum depth of the hood, given
the
 focal length of a lens in millimeters, it's maximum aperture diameter also
 in millimeters, and the diameter of the hood in millimeters?

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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More on E-6 processing

2002-04-24 Thread Bill Owens

The current thread has me wanting to get into E-6 processing again after not
doing it for nearly 30 years.

I've ordered a Photocolor E-6 kit from BH:

http://www.luminos.com/photocol.htm

I've always heard that an aquarium heater is a good method for controlling
the temperature. so I picked up an inexpensive 75 watt heater.  However, it
maxes out at about 32 degrees C, leaving me about 6 degrees short.  Any of
you folks have any other inexpensive (read cheap) ways of temperature
control?  I'm tempted to try a larger heater, but don't want to try again
and find out it doesn't work.

Bill  KG4LOV
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OT: Medium Format

2002-04-24 Thread James Adams

Today seems to be my lucky day, just won a second auction, it's for a
Russian Salyut-S - Hasselblad 1000 copy with 2 backs and case for US
$160.00.  Best it's in the USA, so less of a problem shipping wise.

I must now sell some of my cameras and lenses. I was thinking of listing
them on Ebay , but will offer them to the group first.
James
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RE: Hood depth

2002-04-24 Thread andre

Len, I do have it, but not at hand...  It's for round or rectangular 
hood.  It takes into account the diameter of the filter ring, the 
distance between the glass and the end of the hood, the diameter of 
the hood (or both diameters for rectangular hoods), and the focal 
lenght of the lens.  I should be able to find it in some reference 
book at home tonight. It may be from the book Elements of Photography 
by Paul Boucher.

Andre

Is there a formula for calculating the maximum depth of the hood, given the
focal length of a lens in millimeters, it's maximum aperture diameter also
in millimeters, and the diameter of the hood in millimeters?

If there is, it would make it a lot easier to find the optimum hood for any
given lens.  I guess that it could be figured out graphically using the
angle of view of a lens, as well but, rather than reinventing the wheel,
perhaps someone already has the formulae at hand.

Len
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LX/MX Screens: which is your favo(u)rite/most used

2002-04-24 Thread Christian Skofteland

Hono(u)rable Pentaxians;

The subject of split image focusing screens recently came up and several list 
members mentioned the interchangeable focusing screens of the LX and MX.

This feature was important to me in buying my LX and MX.  When I met Paul 
Stregevsky he was surprised that the standard screen in my LX was the SG20 
and in the MX the SD21.  

My reasons for the choices:  
1. I use long lenses and split screens are useless.
2. For macro work split screens are useless
3. The grid on the LX screen REALLY helps me with composition (my greatest 
challange).  Not only that, since using it, I've had fewer tilted horizons!

So, which screen is your favo(u)rite/most used?

Christian
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Portrait lens recommendations?

2002-04-24 Thread Mishka

hey all,
i am looking for a relatively lightweight and inexpensive lens 80 to
100mm, no macro, for portraits and general carry-around short tele. as
sharp as possible (i can blur it afterwards in photoshop as much as i
want, otoh the lost detail is lost forever). something that weights
under a pound and cost under $300. pentax 85mm lenses are out of
question (i find the prices ridiculous, no matter how good the glass
is). i tried M100/2.8 and wasn't impressed with it, besides i would
prefer something faster than f/2.8 
any recommendations?
  

-- 
http://fastmail.fm - No WWW (Wait-Wait-Wait) required
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Re: Split Image Or Not Split Image

2002-04-24 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

After flirting with several rangefinders, which use coincident-image RFs, my 
preferences are as follows, in descending order:

1. Any-brightness finder + 45-degree diagonally split image, a la Ricoh or special 
versions of the Pentax ME Super SE (and a K1000 SE?)
2. bright finder + 90-degree split image
3. bright finder (like an SE-60), no RF.
4. 90-degree split iamge with a not-so-bright finder (Super Program.
5. Not-so-bright finder, no RF (KX).
6. coincident-image RF, like Leica or Yashica, no matter how bright. Too darn slow, 
and frustrating when focusing on a cluttered background (like a heavily leaved tree).

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RE: Hood depth

2002-04-24 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Len wrote:

Is there a formula for calculating the maximum depth of the hood, given the 
focal length of a lens in millimeters, it's maximum aperture diameter also 
in millimeters, and the diameter of the hood in millimeters? 

Len,
At http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/flare.html#homebrew you'll find a link to a Hood 
Length Calculator in Excel.

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RE: Split Image Or Not Split Image

2002-04-24 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Len wrote:

With rangefinder cameras, it's a bit different, the rangefinder can be much 
more accurate than any split image screen in an SLR.  Furthermore, it 
retains its accuracy with all of the lenses that can be used directly on the 
camera, and is totally independent of focal length and aperture. 

Len,
It's been shown that, on average, coincident-image rangefinders are more precise than 
split-image rangefinders at focal lengths up to about 85mm. Longer than that, the 
SLR's split image is more precise. 

I think I've read this twice: once on the Web and once in a column on rangefinders by 
a now-deceased columnist of the old Modern Photography or Popular Photography--Nathan 
Rothchild, or some such name.

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RE: LX/MX Screens: which is your favo(u)rite/most used

2002-04-24 Thread Cesar Matamoros II

Christian Skofteland
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 2:17 PM

Hono(u)rable Pentaxians;

The subject of split image focusing screens recently came up and several
list
members mentioned the interchangeable focusing screens of the LX and MX.

This feature was important to me in buying my LX and MX.  When I met Paul
Stregevsky he was surprised that the standard screen in my LX was the SG20
and in the MX the SD21.

My reasons for the choices:
1. I use long lenses and split screens are useless.
2. For macro work split screens are useless
3. The grid on the LX screen REALLY helps me with composition (my greatest
challange).  Not only that, since using it, I've had fewer tilted horizons!

So, which screen is your favo(u)rite/most used?

Christian


Christian,

For the longest time I used the standard SC-21.  Did not know any better.
Two of my LXen still have them installed.  After getting my ZX-5 and then my
MZ-S I found that I could focus without the aid of a split-image center.

My two most used LXen - yes including the 'beat to hell' one - sport the
SE-20.  I have been tempted to find other screens to check out, I just have
not had the motivation to search.  Interesting, I used a SC-21 equipped LX
two weekends ago.  It was so strange to see the split-image center.  I found
myself relying on it rather than shooting normally.  It looks like it is
time to get better at swapping screens or get a couple more SC-21s.

César
Panama City, Florida
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Re: Hood depth

2002-04-24 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Andre,

I see what you mean about suitable stepup rings to the Nikon HN-13 or Contax No. 5 
hood being expensive. At 
http://www.2filter.com/prices/products/rings.html#52mm%20Rings%20to%20100mm the only 
step-ups from 67 to 82 or 77 to 82 are Heliopan brass rings, at $66.63!

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RE: Photos of Tulip Fields in Washington

2002-04-24 Thread Frits J. Wüthrich

Very nice Harald!
For a Dutch guy it is strange to see tulip fields with the typical US barns
in the background, somehow that doesn't fit in my expectations I guess.

Frits Wüthrich

harald_nancy wrote:
 Hi Pentaxians,
 I just spent a few days shooting in the tulip fields
 by La Conner, Washington state.
 The expanse of colors in the tulip fields were spectacular!
 If anyone likes to view a few photos I scanned,
 go here:
 http://www.geocities.com/harald_nancy/Tulips_2002.htm
 Photos were taken with my trusty ZX-5, Pentax 50 macro,
 Pentax 28-70, Tokina 80-200, Tokina 20-35.
 slide film Kodak Elite Chrome 100.
 Harald
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Re: Vivitar Series 1 28mm F1.9

2002-04-24 Thread Fred

 Unfortunately, the focusing ring turns the wrong way from
 Pentax. Owning as I do several Vivitars and several Pentaxes, I've
 come to understand why some list members have decided not to buy
 such lenses; it does get confusing.

This indeed can be an annoyance, Paul, but it's not fatal - g.

While I dearly love some of the really special lenses that Vivitar
has put out in times past, the focusing backwards characteristic
of all Vivitar lenses (at least, every Vivitar lens that I have ever
used) is a drawback.  Tokina lenses, on the other hand, focus the
correct Pentax way.  (Of course, correct Pentax is a somewhat
redundant expression...)

However, focusing backwards is only sometimes significant.  For
me, for a lot of wildlife shooting, where focusing is done almost
entirely close to infinity, and for scenic and macro shooting, where
there is plenty of time to focus anyway, going the wrong way once
in a while just doesn't matter.  Where focusing backwards becomes
more of a problem for me is in situations where I have to quickly
focus at a variety of distances from foreground to infinity - that's
when an occasional second here or there spent focusing the wrong way
can start to get in the way.

Nowadays, however, going from a Pentax (or Tokina) lens to a Vivitar
lens, I can usually manage to get myself turned around mentally,
so that mistakes are now fairly infrequent.  Still, I do wish that
those beautiful VS1 lenses focused in the right direction...

And then, just when I think I've got my brain attuned to the right
or wrong focusing direction, I can pick up the follow-focus
Novoflex rig, and get to remember to ~pull~ for infinity focus and
to ~not pull~ for closer focus...

Thank goodness that I don't use AF - I'd be having no fun at all -
g.

Fred
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Re: Split Image Or Not Split Image

2002-04-24 Thread Mark Erickson

Shel, 

You must be speaking about the Voigtlander Bessa-R.  The wacky Voigtlander 
Bessa-T has a dedicated rangefinder with a 58mm baseline according to the 
CameraQuest website (http://www.cameraquest.com/VCBessaT.htm). 

 --Mark 

 -Shel wrote-
The Voightlander, OTOH, had a much shorter effective base length, and
for this reason the camera is acknowledged to be almost useless for
focusing long, fast lenses, even though such lenses will fit on the
camera body.  For example, Voigtlander makes a 75mm/2.5 and a 90mm/3.5,
which are the fastest lenses made in those focal lengths as opposed to
the much faster Leica lenses. 
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RE: Hood depth

2002-04-24 Thread Paris, Leonard

Very good!  Thanks Paul!

This will do very nicely. It's a good article on flare, too.

Len
---


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 2:38 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Hood depth


Len wrote:

Is there a formula for calculating the maximum depth of the hood, given the 
focal length of a lens in millimeters, it's maximum aperture diameter also 
in millimeters, and the diameter of the hood in millimeters? 

Len,
At http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/flare.html#homebrew you'll find a link
to a Hood Length Calculator in Excel.

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RE: Hood depth

2002-04-24 Thread Paris, Leonard

That spreadsheet was contributed by our own JCO.

Thanks JC.

Len
---

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 2:38 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Hood depth


Len wrote:

Is there a formula for calculating the maximum depth of the hood, given the 
focal length of a lens in millimeters, it's maximum aperture diameter also 
in millimeters, and the diameter of the hood in millimeters? 

Len,
At http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/flare.html#homebrew you'll find a link
to a Hood Length Calculator in Excel.

[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re[2]: Henri Cartier-Bresson

2002-04-24 Thread Bob Walkden

Hi,

I think those shots, all from the early 1950s, were made with a
pre-production, experimental Leica M3. It has long been Leica's habit
to have Magnum photographers test them, and recently Klaus Bjorn
Larsen tested the M7 for them.

Some of Elliott Erwitt's contacts from the time show the same effect and
I recall that he mentioned the camera in a talk I went to last year. I
imagine the film gate (is that what it's called?) was slightly larger than
24x36cm, and corrected in the production model, which came out in 1954. The
exposed rectangle is not entirely centred either.

---

 Bob  

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Wednesday, April 24, 2002, 2:59:15 PM, you wrote:

 Not really. It could have been added in the same way you add a black border
 to your prints.
 Lukasz

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On
 Behalf Of Paris, Leonard

 Graphic evidence that the pictures were uncropped, I guess, right?

 -Original Message-
 From: Paul Jones [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

 When i saw his exhibition from memory all the shots i saw had the sprocket
 holes on the end of frame actualy on the print.  Not saying all his shots
 were like this, just the ones i saw.
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Re: Split Image Or Not Split Image

2002-04-24 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Yes ... I should have been more clear, but that just emphasizes the
point I was trying to make.  For an interesting chart about rangefinder
EBL, here's the page:  
http://cameraquest.com/leica.htm

A few of the figures are off by a millimeter or three, but the point
about rangefinder focusing is well made here.

Mark Erickson wrote:
 
 Shel,
 
 You must be speaking about the Voigtlander Bessa-R.  The wacky Voigtlander
 Bessa-T has a dedicated rangefinder with a 58mm baseline according to the
 CameraQuest website (http://www.cameraquest.com/VCBessaT.htm).

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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What is the most quiet body?

2002-04-24 Thread Familie Scheffler

Lately David Brooks wrote:  ... Super Program ...is a lot noisier than my
K1000 or Spotties... and Ken Archer ...Super Program. There was so much
mirror slap and shutter noise that I replaced the mirror pad which was about
gone and the light seals. That didn't help. Compared to my ME Supers and
Spotmatics,
the Super Program is a real klunker, at least that is what it sounds like.
You lose stealth mode after the first shot.

I just caught a P30t on ebay and used it first yesterday. The noise is ugly.
Making photos of people in front of the railway station I feared someone would
mention it, feel disturbed by me taking photos -probably of him- and snatch it
off. I mentioned the K1000 is quite loud, too. My MX (I don't own any more)
had a nicer noise. The MZ-5N makes some sound because of the motor. I have
never used any other camera body.

Which camera body would you recommend for doing rather quiet work?

Regards
Bernd
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Medium Format

2002-04-24 Thread James Adams

It occurred to me that if I sent a entry to the list with OT in front, some
may have their browser filter OT's out. I seem to remember recently seeing
this mentioned in a thread.
So I'm re-sending this again:
Today seems to be my lucky day, just won a second auction, it's for a
Russian Salyut-S - Hasselblad 1000 copy with 2 backs and case, for
$160.00 US.  Best it's in the USA, so less of a problem shipping wise.

 I must sell some of my cameras and lenses. I was thinking of listing
them on Ebay , but will offer them to the group first.

I may sell an SPF(maybe 2), an SP500 and 1 or 2 ME's, as I won the Super
Program today as well.  I'm keeping my ME Super.

Two of my SPF's had meters repaired and a CLA at $189 CDN(Plus Tax  14%)
The third SPF has the frame counter missing, but I've used it happily
without it for since I got it. If anyone is interested, let me know off
list.
James
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Re: Portrait lens recommendations?

2002-04-24 Thread Alan Chan

i am looking for a relatively lightweight and inexpensive lens 80 to
100mm, no macro, for portraits and general carry-around short tele. as
sharp as possible (i can blur it afterwards in photoshop as much as i
want, otoh the lost detail is lost forever). something that weights
under a pound and cost under $300. pentax 85mm lenses are out of
question (i find the prices ridiculous, no matter how good the glass
is). i tried M100/2.8 and wasn't impressed with it, besides i would
prefer something faster than f/2.8
any recommendations?

Used manual focus Tamron SP 90/2.5 1:2 macro (you said as sharp as 
possible?).

regards,
Alan Chan


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