Re: [Phono-L] Great Rust Removal Method - Electrolytic Rust Removal...
I came across this post, which I had saved from 2011, and have a question about this method. I've seen a lot of suggestions to use a car battery charger as the power source. How about a filtered and regulated, high-current DC supply? I figure the purer the DC the better and wonder about using a 12 volt, 25 amp Astron supply. Should I add a load of some sort (such as a light bulb) in series to prevent the fuse from blowing? Chris On 7/15/2011 2:43 AM, clockworkh...@aol.com wrote: This is well known to car restorers and has been used on iron or steel for years. Sodium hydroxide will also work. Sodium hydroxide is Drano but without the aluminum flakes that would mess up the process. Sodium hydroxide is commonly called lye and eye protection is advised. It works a bit better than 'washing soda' or soda ash which is sodium carbonate, Na2CO3. For a gas tank an electroplated coating of zinc is suggested immediately after the process. For a phonograph body any pits should quickly be filled and a coat of paint put on if it is an exposed part. Motor frames and the like can be dipped into an oil bath that has a paraffin base or given a dip into shellac or lacquer to keep the rust off. If the part is to be plated then the next immediate step is to copper plate the part before any oil or oxide can contaminate the pristine surface. Even a fingerprint is a problem. Cast iron needs a copper plating then tin plating before nickel can be put on. Electrolytic rust removal has been used by museums and restorers for ages. Bill Harrah had a huge bath when he was restoring old rust buckets into great antique cars for his collection. Harrah had an Edison Opera, a Triumph, an Amberola 30, and other Edison machines on display but never felt they needed restoration. Boy, did they! Happy Bastille Day to all, Al ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org
Re: [Phono-L] Great Rust Removal Method - Electrolytic Rust Removal...
Just about any DC source will work; the process usually takes just a few amps maximum. I usually use whichever car battery charger comes to hand. I'd strongly recommend using washing soda (sodium carbonate) rather than sodium hydroxide. You'll have body parts fairly close to the process periodically, and while a splash of washing soda is harmless, sodium hydroxide can do serious damage. Newly de-rusted parts can also be protected with a coat of paste wax if they're not to be painted or plated. Bill On 1/12/2014 12:20 PM, Chris Kocsis wrote: I came across this post, which I had saved from 2011, and have a question about this method. I've seen a lot of suggestions to use a car battery charger as the power source. How about a filtered and regulated, high-current DC supply? I figure the purer the DC the better and wonder about using a 12 volt, 25 amp Astron supply. Should I add a load of some sort (such as a light bulb) in series to prevent the fuse from blowing? Chris On 7/15/2011 2:43 AM, clockworkh...@aol.com wrote: This is well known to car restorers and has been used on iron or steel for years. Sodium hydroxide will also work. Sodium hydroxide is Drano but without the aluminum flakes that would mess up the process. Sodium hydroxide is commonly called lye and eye protection is advised. It works a bit better than 'washing soda' or soda ash which is sodium carbonate, Na2CO3. For a gas tank an electroplated coating of zinc is suggested immediately after the process. For a phonograph body any pits should quickly be filled and a coat of paint put on if it is an exposed part. Motor frames and the like can be dipped into an oil bath that has a paraffin base or given a dip into shellac or lacquer to keep the rust off. If the part is to be plated then the next immediate step is to copper plate the part before any oil or oxide can contaminate the pristine surface. Even a fingerprint is a problem. Cast iron needs a copper plating then tin plating before nickel can be put on. Electrolytic rust removal has been used by museums and restorers for ages. Bill Harrah had a huge bath when he was restoring old rust buckets into great antique cars for his collection. Harrah had an Edison Opera, a Triumph, an Amberola 30, and other Edison machines on display but never felt they needed restoration. Boy, did they! Happy Bastille Day to all, Al ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org
Re: [Phono-L] Great Rust Removal Method - Electrolytic Rust Removal...
If you use a high current source you will severely pit the metal you are attempting to clean. I use a 36v DC supply that has an adjustable voltage output and keep the current between 1 and 2 amps. On 01/12/2014 11:20 AM, Chris Kocsis wrote: I came across this post, which I had saved from 2011, and have a question about this method. I've seen a lot of suggestions to use a car battery charger as the power source. How about a filtered and regulated, high-current DC supply? I figure the purer the DC the better and wonder about using a 12 volt, 25 amp Astron supply. Should I add a load of some sort (such as a light bulb) in series to prevent the fuse from blowing? Chris On 7/15/2011 2:43 AM, clockworkh...@aol.com wrote: This is well known to car restorers and has been used on iron or steel for years. Sodium hydroxide will also work. Sodium hydroxide is Drano but without the aluminum flakes that would mess up the process. Sodium hydroxide is commonly called lye and eye protection is advised. It works a bit better than 'washing soda' or soda ash which is sodium carbonate, Na2CO3. For a gas tank an electroplated coating of zinc is suggested immediately after the process. For a phonograph body any pits should quickly be filled and a coat of paint put on if it is an exposed part. Motor frames and the like can be dipped into an oil bath that has a paraffin base or given a dip into shellac or lacquer to keep the rust off. If the part is to be plated then the next immediate step is to copper plate the part before any oil or oxide can contaminate the pristine surface. Even a fingerprint is a problem. Cast iron needs a copper plating then tin plating before nickel can be put on. Electrolytic rust removal has been used by museums and restorers for ages. Bill Harrah had a huge bath when he was restoring old rust buckets into great antique cars for his collection. Harrah had an Edison Opera, a Triumph, an Amberola 30, and other Edison machines on display but never felt they needed restoration. Boy, did they! Happy Bastille Day to all, Al ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org
Re: [Phono-L] Great Rust Removal Method - Electrolytic Rust Removal...
I love to use a product called Evaporust. I have done the electrolysis method too and prefer the ease of Evaporust. You can google it and find all kinds of praise for it. Buy it at an auto parts store. Dave From: Bill Burns bi...@ftldesign.com To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2014 1:18 PM Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Great Rust Removal Method - Electrolytic Rust Removal... Just about any DC source will work; the process usually takes just a few amps maximum. I usually use whichever car battery charger comes to hand. I'd strongly recommend using washing soda (sodium carbonate) rather than sodium hydroxide. You'll have body parts fairly close to the process periodically, and while a splash of washing soda is harmless, sodium hydroxide can do serious damage. Newly de-rusted parts can also be protected with a coat of paste wax if they're not to be painted or plated. Bill On 1/12/2014 12:20 PM, Chris Kocsis wrote: I came across this post, which I had saved from 2011, and have a question about this method. I've seen a lot of suggestions to use a car battery charger as the power source. How about a filtered and regulated, high-current DC supply? I figure the purer the DC the better and wonder about using a 12 volt, 25 amp Astron supply. Should I add a load of some sort (such as a light bulb) in series to prevent the fuse from blowing? Chris On 7/15/2011 2:43 AM, clockworkh...@aol.com wrote: This is well known to car restorers and has been used on iron or steel for years. Sodium hydroxide will also work. Sodium hydroxide is Drano but without the aluminum flakes that would mess up the process. Sodium hydroxide is commonly called lye and eye protection is advised. It works a bit better than 'washing soda' or soda ash which is sodium carbonate, Na2CO3. For a gas tank an electroplated coating of zinc is suggested immediately after the process. For a phonograph body any pits should quickly be filled and a coat of paint put on if it is an exposed part. Motor frames and the like can be dipped into an oil bath that has a paraffin base or given a dip into shellac or lacquer to keep the rust off. If the part is to be plated then the next immediate step is to copper plate the part before any oil or oxide can contaminate the pristine surface. Even a fingerprint is a problem. Cast iron needs a copper plating then tin plating before nickel can be put on. Electrolytic rust removal has been used by museums and restorers for ages. Bill Harrah had a huge bath when he was restoring old rust buckets into great antique cars for his collection. Harrah had an Edison Opera, a Triumph, an Amberola 30, and other Edison machines on display but never felt they needed restoration. Boy, did they! Happy Bastille Day to all, Al ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org
Re: [Phono-L] Great Rust Removal Method - Electrolytic Rust Removal...
This is a very good alternative for most things and it works very well. On 01/12/2014 12:33 PM, David Dazer wrote: I love to use a product called Evaporust. I have done the electrolysis method too and prefer the ease of Evaporust. You can google it and find all kinds of praise for it. Buy it at an auto parts store. Dave From: Bill Burns bi...@ftldesign.com To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2014 1:18 PM Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Great Rust Removal Method - Electrolytic Rust Removal... Just about any DC source will work; the process usually takes just a few amps maximum. I usually use whichever car battery charger comes to hand. I'd strongly recommend using washing soda (sodium carbonate) rather than sodium hydroxide. You'll have body parts fairly close to the process periodically, and while a splash of washing soda is harmless, sodium hydroxide can do serious damage. Newly de-rusted parts can also be protected with a coat of paste wax if they're not to be painted or plated. Bill On 1/12/2014 12:20 PM, Chris Kocsis wrote: I came across this post, which I had saved from 2011, and have a question about this method. I've seen a lot of suggestions to use a car battery charger as the power source. How about a filtered and regulated, high-current DC supply? I figure the purer the DC the better and wonder about using a 12 volt, 25 amp Astron supply. Should I add a load of some sort (such as a light bulb) in series to prevent the fuse from blowing? Chris On 7/15/2011 2:43 AM, clockworkh...@aol.com wrote: This is well known to car restorers and has been used on iron or steel for years. Sodium hydroxide will also work. Sodium hydroxide is Drano but without the aluminum flakes that would mess up the process. Sodium hydroxide is commonly called lye and eye protection is advised. It works a bit better than 'washing soda' or soda ash which is sodium carbonate, Na2CO3. For a gas tank an electroplated coating of zinc is suggested immediately after the process. For a phonograph body any pits should quickly be filled and a coat of paint put on if it is an exposed part. Motor frames and the like can be dipped into an oil bath that has a paraffin base or given a dip into shellac or lacquer to keep the rust off. If the part is to be plated then the next immediate step is to copper plate the part before any oil or oxide can contaminate the pristine surface. Even a fingerprint is a problem. Cast iron needs a copper plating then tin plating before nickel can be put on. Electrolytic rust removal has been used by museums and restorers for ages. Bill Harrah had a huge bath when he was restoring old rust buckets into great antique cars for his collection. Harrah had an Edison Opera, a Triumph, an Amberola 30, and other Edison machines on display but never felt they needed restoration. Boy, did they! Happy Bastille Day to all, Al ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.org
Re: [Phono-L] Great Rust Removal Method - Electrolytic Rust Removal...
This is well known to car restorers and has been used on iron or steel for years. Sodium hydroxide will also work. Sodium hydroxide is Drano but without the aluminum flakes that would mess up the process. Sodium hydroxide is commonly called lye and eye protection is advised. It works a bit better than 'washing soda' or soda ash which is sodium carbonate, Na2CO3. For a gas tank an electroplated coating of zinc is suggested immediately after the process. For a phonograph body any pits should quickly be filled and a coat of paint put on if it is an exposed part. Motor frames and the like can be dipped into an oil bath that has a paraffin base or given a dip into shellac or lacquer to keep the rust off. If the part is to be plated then the next immediate step is to copper plate the part before any oil or oxide can contaminate the pristine surface. Even a fingerprint is a problem. Cast iron needs a copper plating then tin plating before nickel can be put on. Electrolytic rust removal has been used by museums and restorers for ages. Bill Harrah had a huge bath when he was restoring old rust buckets into great antique cars for his collection. Harrah had an Edison Opera, a Triumph, an Amberola 30, and other Edison machines on display but never felt they needed restoration. Boy, did they! Happy Bastille Day to all, Al ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
Re: [Phono-L] Great Rust Removal Method - Electrolytic Rust Removal...
Hmmm, Thought you could plate nickel right over copper. Drat. Ron L -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of clockworkh...@aol.com Sent: Friday, July 15, 2011 2:44 AM To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Great Rust Removal Method - Electrolytic Rust Removal... This is well known to car restorers and has been used on iron or steel for years. Sodium hydroxide will also work. Sodium hydroxide is Drano but without the aluminum flakes that would mess up the process. Sodium hydroxide is commonly called lye and eye protection is advised. It works a bit better than 'washing soda' or soda ash which is sodium carbonate, Na2CO3. For a gas tank an electroplated coating of zinc is suggested immediately after the process. For a phonograph body any pits should quickly be filled and a coat of paint put on if it is an exposed part. Motor frames and the like can be dipped into an oil bath that has a paraffin base or given a dip into shellac or lacquer to keep the rust off. If the part is to be plated then the next immediate step is to copper plate the part before any oil or oxide can contaminate the pristine surface. Even a fingerprint is a problem. Cast iron needs a copper plating then tin plating before nickel can be put on. Electrolytic rust removal has been used by museums and restorers for ages. Bill Harrah had a huge bath when he was restoring old rust buckets into great antique cars for his collection. Harrah had an Edison Opera, a Triumph, an Amberola 30, and other Edison machines on display but never felt they needed restoration. Boy, did they! Happy Bastille Day to all, Al ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
