[Phono-L] removing turn table cleaning lead screw half nut
I have a Victor VV IV table top that the turn table does not want to come off. Any suggestions? Also what is a good method of cleaning the lead screw and half nut on an Edison cylinder machine? Thanks in advance, Charles cdra...@ipa.net EarthLink Revolves Around You. From lhera...@bu.edu Wed Jan 24 09:40:59 2007 From: lhera...@bu.edu (Ron L) Date: Wed Jan 24 09:41:44 2007 Subject: [Phono-L] removing turn table cleaning lead screw half nut In-Reply-To: 410-220071324172238...@ipa.net Message-ID: 007601c73fde$d1b83b30$b6d42...@ad.bu.edu I had a parts motor with a turn table so stuck that I had to loosen the brass gear on the center spindle, pull the entire shaft out of the motor and then beat the shaft out of the TT while I supported the hub. I ended up flattening the end of the shaft a bit but I was able to reshape it adequately on a lathe. I had been soaking it with PB Blaster and before that, WD 40 for ages and it would not loosen up. I even tried heating the TT a bit. When the method outlined below did not work, I resorted to what I described above. Usually, if you have someone hang on to the TT evenly a tap on the center spindle delivered by a second person will get the tt to separate. Don't let the motor drop too far or too fast. Ron L -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of cdra...@ipa.net Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 12:23 PM To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: [Phono-L] removing turn table cleaning lead screw half nut I have a Victor VV IV table top that the turn table does not want to come off. Any suggestions? Also what is a good method of cleaning the lead screw and half nut on an Edison cylinder machine? Thanks in advance, Charles cdra...@ipa.net EarthLink Revolves Around You. ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
[Phono-L] removing turn table cleaning lead screw half nut
On Jan 24, 2007, at 9:22 AM, cdra...@ipa.net wrote: I have a Victor VV IV table top that the turn table does not want to come off. Any suggestions? This is generally a two person job. While a helper is lifting the turntable evenly, gently tap the top of the spindle with a hammer. Don't miss and hit the turntable... you may learn new vocabulary from your helper! Regards, Loran From john9...@pacbell.net Wed Jan 24 11:35:00 2007 From: john9...@pacbell.net (john9...@pacbell.net) Date: Wed Jan 24 11:36:32 2007 Subject: [Phono-L] removing turn table cleaning lead screw half nut Message-ID: 20070124193620.868b72a4...@mail.intellitechcomputing.com I usually use a rubber mallet. It shouldn't flatten the top of the spindle like a hammer (I speak from experience)... John Robles -Original Message- From: Loran Hughes lo...@oldcrank.com Subj: Re: [Phono-L] removing turn table cleaning lead screw half nut Date: Wed Jan 24, 2007 10:44 am Size: 499 bytes To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org On Jan 24, 2007, at 9:22 AM, cdra...@ipa.net wrote: I have a Victor VV IV table top that the turn table does not want to come off. Any suggestions? This is generally a two person job. While a helper is lifting the turntable evenly, gently tap the top of the spindle with a hammer. Don't miss and hit the turntable... you may learn new vocabulary from your helper! Regards, Loran ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
[Phono-L] removing turn table cleaning lead screw half nut
If using a lubricant on the hub, becareful that it does not make contact with the felt - I am sure we have all seen turntables with nice original felt that has a 4 or 5 inch wide oil stain from sucking up excess lubricant from the hub area... Walt waltsomm...@comcast.net wrote: Try good penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench or some other oil that is specifically intended as a solvent rather than WD-40 which is chiefly a lubricant. Apply a few drops in against the top of the hub where the spindle passes through and also from under the motor board if you can get to it. Once you apply the oil, let it soak in for a few minutes to penetrate and then carefully and lightly tap the spindle with a nylon hammer if you have one. If it doesn't come off after that, put a few more drops of penetrating oil in and let it sit overnight and then try it again. (The longer you wait and the more penetrating oil you apply, the better the hopes get. I have let some impossible turntables that were badly rusted sit for months and eventually they fell right off. I have had the same success with seized pot metal reproducers and tone arms, especially Columbia, and have avoided any damage whatsoever. But the trick is to wait, wait, and wait some more, which, admittedly, is not typically that practical.) If that doesn't work, use Ron's recommendation of loosening the spindle drive gear and then working the shaft free by pulling upward. Once free, use a nylon headed hammer rather than steel (or rubber). The nylon is hard and resilient, won't tear up like a rubber mallet, and will not damage the spindle. You might want to squirt some oil (any oil) on the shaft and gear before you try to pull it up because the old Vaseline, dust, hair and whatever else worked its way around the shaft will probably make it gummy and difficult to just slide up through the casting. If you use the two-person technique that Poppa Loarn mentioned just be careful that you don't wind up bending the turntable (very easy to do) or splitting the motor board seams...I speak from experience long ago . Whatever you do, take good care to avoid flexing and bending the turntable or exerting force against the motor board. Few things, except perhaps being 15 miles out in the Atlantic on a 20-foot boat with 18 foot swells, is as unpleasant to me as watching a turntable spin with a pronounced wobble - and balancing them once they are distorted can be tricky. The hammering of any shaft end (spindles, gears, mandrel shafts, leadscrews, etc.) with a regular old steel hammer invites not only the potential for mushrooming the end (I'm sure we have all done this, or almost, at least once), but also the possibility of bending or breaking it. I actually had a customer send me a turntable with the lower end of the shaft still seized into place but he had beaten the end and caused the spindle tip to fracture off. Until I saw that I didn't believe it was possible, but people invent all sorts of new ways to break stuff I suppose. On The Subject of Penetrating Oils: Penetrating oils are not really the same as WD-40, although WD-40 like most any oil can often work, and WD-40 is better than most. But WD-40 is higher in viscosity than actual penetrating oil. Penetrating oils are formulated specifically with high concentrations of mineral spirits to make the viscosity extremely low but most importantly to facilitate the wicking of trace amounts of lubricants into nooks and crannies that WD-40 can only dream about getting into - It's simple physics. The longer you wait, the more oil is able to migrate into the area you want to loosen. Walt Sommers Gettysburg Antique Phonographs 717-334-0862 -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Ron L Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 12:41 PM To: 'Antique Phonograph List' Subject: RE: [Phono-L] removing turn table cleaning lead screw half nut I had a parts motor with a turn table so stuck that I had to loosen the brass gear on the center spindle, pull the entire shaft out of the motor and then beat the shaft out of the TT while I supported the hub. I ended up flattening the end of the shaft a bit but I was able to reshape it adequately on a lathe. I had been soaking it with PB Blaster and before that, WD 40 for ages and it would not loosen up. I even tried heating the TT a bit. When the method outlined below did not work, I resorted to what I described above. Usually, if you have someone hang on to the TT evenly a tap on the center spindle delivered by a second person will get the tt to separate. Don't let the motor drop too far or too fast. Ron L -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of cdra...@ipa.net Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 12:23 PM To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: [Phono-L] removing turn table cleaning lead screw half nut I have a Victor VV IV table top that the turn table does
[Phono-L] removing turn table cleaning lead screw half nut
General Motors Heat Riser spray is an effective and fast penetrating oil. Dave cdra...@ipa.net wrote: I have a Victor VV IV table top that the turn table does not want to come off. Any suggestions? Also what is a good method of cleaning the lead screw and half nut on an Edison cylinder machine? Thanks in advance, Charles cdra...@ipa.net EarthLink Revolves Around You. ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
[Phono-L] removing turn table cleaning lead screw half nut
The secret is proper jobsite preparation, proper use of the tools, and the proper tools. If it will not come off with a gentle tap with a nylon or brass hammer while lifting up on the rim then total disassembly and removal is indicated. Almost anything else runs the real risk of damaging or ruining an irreplaceable part(s). Heat source Arbor press peneumatic hammer brass drift punches lead hammer Kroil mechanics' assistant On Wed, 24 Jan 2007 13:53:24 -0800 (PST), john robles wrote: If using a lubricant on the hub, becareful that it does not make contact with the felt - I am sure we have all seen turntables with nice original felt that has a 4 or 5 inch wide oil stain from sucking up excess lubricant from the hub area... Walt waltsomm...@comcast.net wrote: Try good penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench or some other oil that is specifically intended as a solvent rather than WD-40 which is chiefly a lubricant. Apply a few drops in against the top of the hub where the spindle passes through and also from under the motor board if you can get to it. Once you apply the oil, let it soak in for a few minutes to penetrate and then carefully and lightly tap the spindle with a nylon hammer if you have one. If it doesn't come off after that, put a few more drops of penetrating oil in and let it sit overnight and then try it again. (The longer you wait and the more penetrating oil you apply, the better the hopes get. I have let some impossible turntables that were badly rusted sit for months and eventually they fell right off. I have had the same success with seized pot metal reproducers and tone arms, especially Columbia, and have avoided any damage whatsoever. But the trick is to wait, wait, and wait some more, which, admittedly, is not typically that practical.) If that doesn't work, use Ron's recommendation of loosening the spindle drive gear and then working the shaft free by pulling upward. Once free, use a nylon headed hammer rather than steel (or rubber). The nylon is hard and resilient, won't tear up like a rubber mallet, and will not damage the spindle. You might want to squirt some oil (any oil) on the shaft and gear before you try to pull it up because the old Vaseline, dust, hair and whatever else worked its way around the shaft will probably make it gummy and difficult to just slide up through the casting. If you use the two-person technique that Poppa Loarn mentioned just be careful that you don't wind up bending the turntable (very easy to do) or splitting the motor board seams...I speak from experience long ago . Whatever you do, take good care to avoid flexing and bending the turntable or exerting force against the motor board. Few things, except perhaps being 15 miles out in the Atlantic on a 20-foot boat with 18 foot swells, is as unpleasant to me as watching a turntable spin with a pronounced wobble - and balancing them once they are distorted can be tricky. The hammering of any shaft end (spindles, gears, mandrel shafts, leadscrews, etc.) with a regular old steel hammer invites not only the potential for mushrooming the end (I'm sure we have all done this, or almost, at least once), but also the possibility of bending or breaking it. I actually had a customer send me a turntable with the lower end of the shaft still seized into place but he had beaten the end and caused the spindle tip to fracture off. Until I saw that I didn't believe it was possible, but people invent all sorts of new ways to break stuff I suppose. On The Subject of Penetrating Oils: Penetrating oils are not really the same as WD-40, although WD-40 like most any oil can often work, and WD-40 is better than most. But WD-40 is higher in viscosity than actual penetrating oil. Penetrating oils are formulated specifically with high concentrations of mineral spirits to make the viscosity extremely low but most importantly to facilitate the wicking of trace amounts of lubricants into nooks and crannies that WD-40 can only dream about getting into - It's simple physics. The longer you wait, the more oil is able to migrate into the area you want to loosen. Walt Sommers Gettysburg Antique Phonographs 717-334-0862 -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Ron L Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 12:41 PM To: 'Antique Phonograph List' Subject: RE: [Phono-L] removing turn table cleaning lead screw half nut I had a parts motor with a turn table so stuck that I had to loosen the brass gear on the center spindle, pull the entire shaft out of the motor and then beat the shaft out of the TT while I supported the hub. I ended up flattening the end of the shaft a bit but I was able to reshape it adequately on a lathe. I had been soaking it with PB Blaster and before that, WD 40 for ages and it would not loosen up. I even tried heating the TT a bit. When the method outlined below did not work, I resorted to what I described above. Usually, if you
[Phono-L] removing turn table cleaning lead screw half nut
Oh, just the common tools that ALL us hobbyists have :-) -Original Message- From: Rich rich-m...@octoxol.com Subj: RE: [Phono-L] removing turn table cleaning lead screw half nut Date: Wed Jan 24, 2007 2:26 pm Size: 4K To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org The secret is proper jobsite preparation, proper use of the tools, and the proper tools. If it will not come off with a gentle tap with a nylon or brass hammer while lifting up on the rim then total disassembly and removal is indicated. Almost anything else runs the real risk of damaging or ruining an irreplaceable part(s). Heat source Arbor press peneumatic hammer brass drift punches lead hammer Kroil mechanics' assistant On Wed, 24 Jan 2007 13:53:24 -0800 (PST), john robles wrote: If using a lubricant on the hub, becareful that it does not make contact with the felt - I am sure we have all seen turntables with nice original felt that has a 4 or 5 inch wide oil stain from sucking up excess lubricant from the hub area... Walt waltsomm...@comcast.net wrote: Try good penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench or some other oil that is specifically intended as a solvent rather than WD-40 which is chiefly a lubricant. Apply a few drops in against the top of the hub where the spindle passes through and also from under the motor board if you can get to it. Once you apply the oil, let it soak in for a few minutes to penetrate and then carefully and lightly tap the spindle with a nylon hammer if you have one. If it doesn't come off after that, put a few more drops of penetrating oil in and let it sit overnight and then try it again. (The longer you wait and the more penetrating oil you apply, the better the hopes get. I have let some impossible turntables that were badly rusted sit for months and eventually they fell right off. I have had the same success with seized pot metal reproducers and tone arms, especially Columbia, and have avoided any damage whatsoever. But the trick is to wait, wait, and wait some more, which, admittedly, is not typically that practical.) If that doesn't work, use Ron's recommendation of loosening the spindle drive gear and then working the shaft free by pulling upward. Once free, use a nylon headed hammer rather than steel (or rubber). The nylon is hard and resilient, won't tear up like a rubber mallet, and will not damage the spindle. You might want to squirt some oil (any oil) on the shaft and gear before you try to pull it up because the old Vaseline, dust, hair and whatever else worked its way around the shaft will probably make it gummy and difficult to just slide up through the casting. If you use the two-person technique that Poppa Loarn mentioned just be careful that you don't wind up bending the turntable (very easy to do) or splitting the motor board seams...I speak from experience long ago . Whatever you do, take good care to avoid flexing and bending the turntable or exerting force against the motor board. Few things, except perhaps being 15 miles out in the Atlantic on a 20-foot boat with 18 foot swells, is as unpleasant to me as watching a turntable spin with a pronounced wobble - and balancing them once they are distorted can be tricky. The hammering of any shaft end (spindles, gears, mandrel shafts, leadscrews, etc.) with a regular old steel hammer invites not only the potential for mushrooming the end (I'm sure we have all done this, or almost, at least once), but also the possibility of bending or breaking it. I actually had a customer send me a turntable with the lower end of the shaft still seized into place but he had beaten the end and caused the spindle tip to fracture off. Until I saw that I didn't believe it was possible, but people invent all sorts of new ways to break stuff I suppose. On The Subject of Penetrating Oils: Penetrating oils are not really the same as WD-40, although WD-40 like most any oil can often work, and WD-40 is better than most. But WD-40 is higher in viscosity than actual penetrating oil. Penetrating oils are formulated specifically with high concentrations of mineral spirits to make the viscosity extremely low but most importantly to facilitate the wicking of trace amounts of lubricants into nooks and crannies that WD-40 can only dream about getting into - It's simple physics. The longer you wait, the more oil is able to migrate into the area you want to loosen. Walt Sommers Gettysburg Antique Phonographs 717-334-0862 -Original Message- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Ron L Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 12:41 PM --- message truncated ---
[Phono-L] removing turn table cleaning lead screw half nut
On Jan 24, 2007, at 2:22 PM, Rich wrote: Heat source Propane torch Arbor press Old jack duct taped to 4x4 post peneumatic hammer Carpenter's hammer hanging next to air compressor brass drift punches Old screwdrivers lead hammer Same hammer (hanging next to air compressor) Kroil Crisco mechanics' assistant Wife or girl friend I learned everything I need to know from Mike Stitt. ;) Loran
[Phono-L] removing turn table cleaning lead screw half nut
Bwaahhahahaha! Hey, I have more tools than I thought. - Original Message - From: Loran Hughes lo...@oldcrank.com To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 5:00 PM Subject: Re: [Phono-L] removing turn table cleaning lead screw half nut On Jan 24, 2007, at 2:22 PM, Rich wrote: Heat source Propane torch Arbor press Old jack duct taped to 4x4 post peneumatic hammer Carpenter's hammer hanging next to air compressor brass drift punches Old screwdrivers lead hammer Same hammer (hanging next to air compressor) Kroil Crisco mechanics' assistant Wife or girl friend I learned everything I need to know from Mike Stitt. ;) Loran ___ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org From rich-m...@octoxol.com Wed Jan 24 15:50:57 2007 From: rich-m...@octoxol.com (Rich) Date: Wed Jan 24 15:51:14 2007 Subject: [Phono-L] removing turn table cleaning lead screw half nut In-Reply-To: 20070124223432.759fc2a4...@mail.intellitechcomputing.com Message-ID: 20070124235102.4a1092a4...@mail.intellitechcomputing.com Well, yes. I gave up on the set of Harly hammers years ago. On Wed, 24 Jan 2007 14:34:00 -0800, john9...@pacbell.net wrote: Oh, just the common tools that ALL us hobbyists have :-) -Original Message- From: Rich rich-m...@octoxol.com Subj: RE: [Phono-L] removing turn table cleaning lead screw half nut Date: Wed Jan 24, 2007 2:26 pm Size: 4K To: Antique Phonograph List phono-l@oldcrank.org The secret is proper jobsite preparation, proper use of the tools, and the proper tools. If it will not come off with a gentle tap with a nylon or brass hammer while lifting up on the rim then total disassembly and removal is indicated. Almost anything else runs the real risk of damaging or ruining an irreplaceable part(s). Heat source Arbor press peneumatic hammer brass drift punches lead hammer Kroil mechanics' assistant On Wed, 24 Jan 2007 13:53:24 -0800 (PST), john robles wrote: If using a lubricant on the hub, becareful that it does not make contact with the felt - I am sure we have all seen turntables with nice original felt that has a 4 or 5 inch wide oil stain from sucking up excess lubricant from the hub area... Walt waltsomm...@comcast.net wrote: Try good penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench or some other oil that is specifically intended as a solvent rather than WD-40 which is chiefly a lubricant. Apply a few drops in against the top of the hub where the spindle passes through and also from under the motor board if you can get to it. Once you apply the oil, let it soak in for a few minutes to penetrate and then carefully and lightly tap the spindle with a nylon hammer if you have one. If it doesn't come off after that, put a few more drops of penetrating oil in and let it sit overnight and then try it again. (The longer you wait and the more penetrating oil you apply, the better the hopes get. I have let some impossible turntables that were badly rusted sit for months and eventually they fell right off. I have had the same success with seized pot metal reproducers and tone arms, especially Columbia, and have avoided any damage whatsoever. But the trick is to wait, wait, and wait some more, which, admittedly, is not typically that practical.) If that doesn't work, use Ron's recommendation of loosening the spindle drive gear and then working the shaft free by pulling upward. Once free, use a nylon headed hammer rather than steel (or rubber). The nylon is hard and resilient, won't tear up like a rubber mallet, and will not damage the spindle. You might want to squirt some oil (any oil) on the shaft and gear before you try to pull it up because the old Vaseline, dust, hair and whatever else worked its way around the shaft will probably make it gummy and difficult to just slide up through the casting. If you use the two-person technique that Poppa Loarn mentioned just be careful that you don't wind up bending the turntable (very easy to do) or splitting the motor board seams...I speak from experience long ago . Whatever you do, take good care to avoid flexing and bending the turntable or exerting force against the motor board. Few things, except perhaps being 15 miles out in the Atlantic on a 20-foot boat with 18 foot swells, is as unpleasant to me as watching a turntable spin with a pronounced wobble - and balancing them once they are distorted can be tricky. The hammering of any shaft end (spindles, gears, mandrel shafts, leadscrews, etc.) with a regular old steel hammer invites not only the potential for mushrooming the end (I'm sure we have all done this, or almost, at least once), but also the possibility of bending or breaking it. I actually had a customer send me a turntable with the lower end of the shaft still seized into place but he had beaten the end and caused the spindle tip to fracture off. Until I saw that I didn't believe
