Re: [RE-wrenches] Water system with Grundfos SQFlex

2024-05-26 Thread Allan Sindelar via RE-wrenches
Brad,For hand installation, especially with lower flow rates, my go-to solution, mentored to me by Windy Dankoff, was SDR9 high-pressure (140 psi max if I’m remembering correctly) flexible polyethylene pipe with bronze SDR9 compression couplers and connectors to MPT. They all used a stainless steel inner sleeve that fit inside the poly pipe. I carried the fittings in 3/4” and 1” sizes. Contact me off list if you’d like some of these fittings as I described. I’m retired and no longer need them. Allanal...@sindelarsolar.comOn May 26, 2024, at 12:39 PM, Bradley Bassett via RE-wrenches  wrote:Ray,Do you have a US supplier for either of these fittings? The Jentro fitting looks great, the Blueseal16 does not look like it would have much of a pressure rating. I did not find a specification.What do you all use for drop pipes for well pumps?  I have a 260ft deep well with galv, but the first batch corroded through, must have been a really bad batch. The second batch has been fine for many years. I can't bring myself to use PVC which is most common, I just have seen too many issues with it. Stainless is really expensive and hard to find threaded lengths, so I used very high pressure Poly. When it's rated for 300psi it has a very thick wall and is hard to get onto fittings, but is light weight and moderately flexible. BradOn Sun, May 26, 2024 at 11:17 AM Ray Walters via RE-wrenches  wrote:

  

  
  
Hi Brad;
I've seen a lot of leaks with barb fittings on poly pipe. I just
  replace most of the poly plumbing at my place, because I just
  couldn't get it to stop leaking. Black poly pipe is the lowest
  cost per foot, but not quite bomb proof.   Barb fittings are
  really more suited for irrigation under 40 psi, where leaks are
  just part of the irrigation system.  Also, if the pipe is exposed
  to sunlight, it can degrade and split open. Your described setup
  would have sections above 100 psi, and that will really drive
  leaks.  There are compression fittings for the poly pipe, which
  are better.  Here are some examples:


Barb fittings would probably be fine towards the top at the
  storage tanks, where the pressure is much lower, but at the pump,
  and top of the well, where the pressure is over 100 psi, I'd be
  using something better.
Good Luck,  

Ray Walters
  Remote Solar

On 5/26/2024 10:12 AM, Bradley Bassett
  via RE-wrenches wrote:


  
  Yes, lots of possibilities for leaks. I will be
exploring them today. Thanks for the tips for finding the
location. This setup uses 300psi 1" black poly pipe on a 25 ft
drop, and then about 1200 ft run of the same pipe up 220ft
elevation to the tanks up the hill with the house about 36ft
below the tanks with only gravity feed (16 psi). All connections
on the poly pipe are made with long stainless barb fittings with
T-bolt clamps, pretty bomb proof stuff. There is a pitless
adapter into the well casing, I will check that for sure under
pressure. I'll also fix the check valve in the pump house. I
seem to have a lot of issues with check valves, do they really
fail so often? We do not have high mineral water. I've
especially had issues with spring check valves and no longer use
them. The one in my pump house is a swing check valve
which I thought was pretty reliable. If I remember correctly,
the check valve in these pumps is not replaceable. Fortunately,
we actually have two wells, each with a 3SQF-2 pump that we can
alternate for supply.  I'll let you know what I find.

  
  
  Way back in the '90's we had a customer with a solar pump
that just would not perform. Even with a new pump, new
control, check this and that, it just would not pump much
water. It pumped fine when out of the well. The drop pipe
did not have any obstruction. They finally ran the pump
while it was out of the well with the drop pipe connected
and under pressure, and discovered a crack in the PVC pipe
that did not show up except under pressure. So leaks can
indeed be hard to find.
  
  
  Brad 




  

  
  
  
On Sun, May 26, 2024 at
  8:17 AM Jay via RE-wrenches 
  wrote:


  
Hi all


Yes the pump won’t go backwards but it’s
  possible there could be some leakage through the helical
  coil. 


But both check valves have to fail which is a
  low probability. 


 

Re: [RE-wrenches] TPM Search

2024-03-08 Thread Allan Sindelar via RE-wrenches
In my experience, trackers have never made sense in off grid residential applications. In general terms, an expensive dual-axis Wattsun tracker offers a ~35% potential increase in daily solar gain around the summer solstice, and only a 10-15% gain in winter, due to seasonal sunpath variation. Any off grid residence has maximum load in winter, not summer - for most folks summer produces an excess, if sized well for winter loads. If you need more solar input, add panels rather than a tracker.  With specific exceptions, I would design for winter loads, with a pole top rack for easy (and usually one-person) seasonal adjustment. I also advised clients to set the PT rack tilt angle to latitude from around the 10th of February to the 10th of November, and latitude +15 degrees for the six weeks either side of the winter solstice, December 22. This was instead of adjusting tilt angle on the equinoxes. My installations were in the desert southwest but the principles apply anywhere. Also, my experience with Solar Rackworks has been top tier for decades. Jeff Randall cut his teeth at Zomeworks in solar’s early days, was the engineer who designed Direct Power and Water’s racks, waited out his non-compete after PLP bought DP, then started SR with 30 years’ production experience. And he was always willing to modify a design for a specific client or project. Allan Sindelar Fully retired, finallyNABCEP & Journeyman licenses expiredOn Mar 8, 2024, at 3:50 PM, Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar via RE-wrenches  wrote:Spendy for the right client, Jeff and Kyle still support/sell the best trackers out there.
https://www.wattsun.com/
Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar
"we go where powerlines don't"
  https://offgridsolar1.com/ 
e-mail  offgridso...@sti.net
text 209 813 0060
On 2024-03-08 3:27 pm, Dave Tedeyan via RE-wrenches wrote:



Another one out there that is worth looking at is MT Solar. 
Cheers,
Dave

On Fri, Mar 8, 2024, 5:51 PM Kent via RE-wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:

Jeremy,I think the Solar RacksWorks TPMs are virtually identical to the DPW TPMs. My go to TPM is General Specialties; They are a solid design and I think they are easier to assemble. They also have UL listed TPMs but they have top mounting clamps, and for the life of me I don't understand the logic of of a top mount clamp on a TPM.Kent OsterbergBlue Mountain Solar
On 3/8/2024 2:30 PM, Jeremy Rodriguez via RE-wrenches wrote:

With news that PLP has dropped the TPM line, what are you all recommending for a good mount for up to 8 modules , 400 w range. 
I looked in the archives, but no luck. 
I thought there was someone formerly at DPW that was making them. 

Jeremy Rodriguez 
Solar Installation / Design
All Solar, Inc.
1453 M St. 
Penrose Colorado 81240

Sent by Jeremy's iPhone. Sorry for typos and shorthand. 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Lorentz pumps

2024-01-23 Thread Allan Sindelar via RE-wrenches
Rushi!(I still have it. It’s in storage now, as I don’t want to risk losing it. Stays on my nightstand, only one-handed operation I know… )On Jan 23, 2024, at 6:47 AM, Roy Butler via RE-wrenches  wrote:

  

  
  
Hi Jay,
  
  I get all my Lorentz replacement equipment from Genpro:
  
  https://genproenergy.com/solar-water-pump/
Roy Butler
Four Winds Renewable Energy, LLC


Education is when you read the fine print; experience is what you get when you don’t.

“The less people know, the more stubbornly they know it.”

Although no trees were killed in the sending of this message, 
a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.



On 1/22/2024 8:30 PM, Jay via
  RE-wrenches wrote:


  Does anyone know if Lorentz pumps still exist in the US. 

Someone is looking for a PS200 control box. 
It seems to be intermittent 

Thx
Jay
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Conergy solar module issues

2023-12-23 Thread Allan Sindelar via RE-wrenches
Chris, as an issue of concern for many on this list, don’t ask for replies to issues of this type off list, but rather here. In fashion typical of the solar coaster, Conergy was a Major Supplier for a few years before predictably imploding. Quite a few of us have installed systems with Conergy modules and could benefit from this information. Thanks! On Dec 23, 2023, at 4:48 PM, Chris Daum via RE-wrenches  wrote:Hi folks: About 10 years ago we sold some Conergy 250W solar modules.  Well, they aren’t holding up too well; does anyone have any possible warranty contact info?  I believe Soligent bought Conergy in 2014, but they are being largely unhelpful.   Please contact me off list if you have any information of use.  Happy holidays! Sincerely, Chris DaumOasis Montana Inc.406-777-4309 or 4321406-777-4309 faxwww.oasismontana.com  ___List sponsored by Redwood AlliancePay optional member dues here: http://re-wrenches.orgList Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.orgChange listserver email address & settings:http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.orgThere are two list archives for searching. When one doesn't work, try the other:https://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.orgList rules & etiquette:http://www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htmCheck out or update participant bios:http://www.members.re-wrenches.org___
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Home grid stacked battery heating

2023-11-05 Thread Allan Sindelar via RE-wrenches
I did this modification to a 16kW Blue Ion LiFP bank during installation, following this guide, Darryl. Blue Planet had sent me this. Shortly after initial installation a plumber had installed an electric space heater in an unheated space with water pipes, which of course soon drained the batteries to LVD, so the BMS had shut them down. The BMS won’t accept a charge until the batteries were about 1 1/2 degrees F above freezing. I did a winter service call and worked with BP tech support. I plugged the same space heater into a portable gennie and pointed it to the batteries, and as soon as the BMS registered above freezing it allowed recharge from the array. As I recall, besides the bubble/Mylar insulation (which was surprisingly easy to install) the system used an 18w terrarium heating pad in the bottom shelf under the batteries and a 9w pad on the upper shelf, controlled by an external freeze-prevention thermostat. With a sufficient whole-house array it’s proven to be a negligible load. It’s a standalone system. I don’t recall the low-temperature discharge limit; it’s quite a bit lower than the minimum charge temperature. And summer heating is irrelevant with the thermostat. The rest you can get from Blue Planet. AllanOn Nov 5, 2023, at 2:03 PM, Darryl Thayer via RE-wrenches  wrote:Great site, Allan, but many facts still need to be included.  Was there a discharge or charge going on? How much power was being drawn by the heaters?  If this is for a standalone system, energy consumption is very important. What is the lower temperature cell discharge limit of Blue Planet?   What concern was taken for the summer and overheating?   What are the blue planet-specific heat and weight of the batteries?  More questions, but I doubt if anyone else is interested.     Thank you.On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 11:49 AM Sindelar Solar via RE-wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:

  

  
  
You might be able to get some ideas from this. It's worked well for
me on one job.
Allan

On 10/25/2023 2:24 PM, Dana Orzel via
  RE-wrenches wrote:


  
  
  
  
I
know we have had this run thru before & wanted to see if
any new options for heating LI batteries.
 
I
have an 8 pack of Homegrid LI batteries that is off grid
with Radian 8048a. Originally, they were not going to be
there for the winter, now it is a possibility they may
visit. Plenty of solar 6KW+, hopefully generator back up
waiting on delivery currently.
Currently
located in main room high ceilings/log cabin.
Looking
at creating an insulated closet & using terrarium
heaters controlled if over 51volt heater on AC from
inverter. Or just boxing in with 3-4” of blue board
Styrofoam….
 
Has
anyone else done something similar?
Has
anyone done this & it did not work?
 
Thought
& suggestions…..
 
 
_
Dana
Orzel    GREAT
SOLAR WORKS!  
C
– 208.721.7003  E – d...@solarwork.com
W
- www. greatsolarworks.com www.solarwork.com
“Responsible
Technologies for Responsible People since 1988!”
 
  
  
  
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-- 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  RETIRED
 
  

  

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Magnum problem

2023-10-31 Thread Allan Sindelar via RE-wrenches
Ron,You didn’t say whether the 4448 is a PAE or the original AE; at 4,400 rated watts, I’m assuming that it’s a PAE, meaning split-phase 240. Your 2,000W Honda has a 120V output, and I suspect that the 3,800W Champion does too. Have you taken this into consideration?Many years ago, one of the selling points of the early PAE series was that it could charge from a 120V source. I have no idea if this is still true, but it’s worth verifying (along with the AC input connection and any specific charge input settings) before you make that 6-hour trip. Allan Sindelar-retired-On Oct 31, 2023, at 8:11 PM, Jerry Shafer via RE-wrenches  wrote:Wrenches RonFirst l would think tech support already asked you this but.I have seen this with outback, What is the incoming voltage and freq, the Honda should be fine but the other hard to say.  Frequency is very important to be right otherwise the inverter will sit and wait, voltage not as much. Your inverter is a 240 vac right, are the gennys also?You might want to make sure its in Gen input not grid input, gen is wider. With your little gennys it might latch up and disconnect quickly due to either going out of range.With gennys always use a pf of .8 and go down from there so a 3 k genny charging should be around 1200 watts.FuntimesOn Tue, Oct 31, 2023, 9:38 AM Ron Young via RE-wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:Hello Wrenches,I am completely stumped. I built a Magnum 4448 panel for a client and it was installed by an electrician. It was thoroughly tested before going out the door on all functions and pre-programmed for the off-grid site. Electrician just had to hang it on the wall and make 4 connections, AC IN, AC OUT, BATTERY, PV. Somehow the system wouldn’t go into charge mode. The site is a 3 hour trip each way. The electrician was baffled, he had experience installing solar but very limited so I went to the site to see what the problem was. After spending a day checking out the inverter with two different generators, checking all the connections, AC at the inputs at the inverter and at the outputs on the breakers, and even removed the cover from the inverter to make sure some connections had not shaken loose inside the box on the long bumpy road into the property. Everything checked out. So assuming the AC board in the inverter was faulty I ordered a new unit to replace and that has now been done. SAME PROBLEM! I’m wondering now if it’s possible that the Magnum remote monitor could be the problem. It functions properly on every setting but is it possible there is an internal fault? Could it prevent the automatic charge cycle from initiating? Seems unlikely to me because the inverter can go into charge mode even without the monitor. I also tried replacing the connection cable between the monitor and inverter but no luck. The generators are both small, one a Honda 2kW and the other a Champion 3.8kW. Neither is ideal but I have had no issues with these types of generators in the past and the client has ordered a larger 10kW unit but we don’t have it yet to test. Generators have been run with Eco Mode off. Output to the house on bypass is consistent and without problem.Any suggestions - this is just confounding.RonearthRight Products - Solareagle.com___
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Old Solar Modules

2022-09-12 Thread Allan Sindelar via RE-wrenches
The Photowatt is French. Early 80s most likely. Windy Dankoff imported them for 
a few years, late 70s - early 80s. They’re remarkable modules. I had (before I 
retired) several clients still using them. Every one is still putting out at or 
close to rated output, 40 years later. The only problem I ever encountered is 
the output studs breaking off. And years ago I used to solder leads to the 
ribbons with Big Bertha - a 100w soldering iron. I made clear up front that I 
wouldn’t guarantee my repair work, but it worked every time, and never 
shattered the glass. 
The 50w Arco would likely be late 80s, as before that they were 32-35w. 
The Solarex is likely a VLX53 from the mid-late 90s. The VLX had a thin frame. 
Hope that helps. Other old timers can correct me if I’m wrong with any of this. 
Allan Sindelar 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 12, 2022, at 4:29 PM, Amos Post via RE-wrenches 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I have a few old modules I am trying to date best I can.  One is an Photowatt 
> (Arco?) 55Watt silver frame yellow backsheet, one is a Solarex 53Watt silver 
> frame grey back sheet, and one Arco 50Watt black frame black back sheet.  
> Looking for help with dates and if anyone knows of good websites for looking 
> up specs and/or dates on these older modules?
> 
> Thanks,
> Amos
> 
> 
>Amos Post
>Integrity Energy
>   W 802.763.7023
>C 802.291.2188
> ienergyVT.com
> Facebook
> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Magnum Inverters

2022-07-23 Thread Allan Sindelar via RE-wrenches
One caution, Jeremy. The EVOs that I used are only available in 120V input and 
output, and Magnum PAEs are split phase 120/240. 
Allan

> On Jul 23, 2022, at 3:34 PM, Jeremy Rodriguez via RE-wrenches 
>  wrote:
> 
>  We’ve ordered one to try since we cannot get the PAEs.
> I hope Magnum can resume shipping orders in the 38 weeks I was told!
> 
> Jeremy Rodriguez 
> Solar Installation / Design Expert 
> All Solar, Inc.
> 1453 M St
> Penrose Colorado 81240
> 
> Sent by Jeremy's iPhone. Sorry for typos and shorthand. 
> 
>>> On Jul 23, 2022, at 1:24 PM, Sindelar Solar via RE-wrenches 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>  I have installed three of the Samlex EVO series in the last few years, all 
>> 24V units and all with Midnite E-Panels, and all have worked flawlessly. 
>> I've ordered all as preassembled units from Midnite.
>> Allan
>> 
>>> On 7/20/2022 4:34 PM, Bradley Bassett via RE-wrenches wrote:
>>> The Samlex EVO4248SP is a potential substitute. The only system panel is 
>>> the MidNite E-panel. This is a 4.2 kW split phase inverter. 
>>> Brad
>>> AEE Solar
>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Allan Sindelar
>>> al...@sindelarsolar.com
>>> New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
>>> Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
>>> 505 780-2738 cell
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Cable Ties

2022-03-13 Thread Allan Sindelar
Michael, I have had no known failures with Hellerman-Tyton’s line, which is 
quite extensive. 
Allan

> On Mar 13, 2022, at 4:12 PM, Michael Morningstar  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Wrenches,
> Who makes the best cable ties, and which part number for under PV wire 
> management? I keep going back to past projects where I used quality high-heat 
> resistant UV rated Panduit and Burndy ties that became brittle.
> Thanks,
> Michael
> 
> -- 
> Michael Morningstar
> 
> Morningstar Electric
> PO Box 1494
> Mount Shasta, CA 96067
> 530-921-0560
> mjmornings...@gmail.com
> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] SW4024 remote shut down switch

2021-11-12 Thread Allan Sindelar
How remote? I have just picked up a consignment Sw4024 remote with cable. 
Interested? 
I don’t think that there’s a remote switch option other than this. 
Allan

> On Nov 12, 2021, at 12:17 PM, Dana Orzel  wrote:
> 
> 
> Oh Wise Older Ones!
>  
> I have a client that wants to be able to turn off his SW4024 remotely, say 
> with a 2 wire  single gang switch?
> I cannot remember & it does not appear in the manual he has as to how this 
> can happen.
>  
> Any memories or suggestions?
>  
>  
>  
> Dana Orzel  Great Solar Works, Inc.
> C - 208.721.7003   d...@solarwork.com
> Idaho Contractor - # 028765 Idaho PV # 028374
> NABCEP # 051112-136   www.greatsolarworks.com
> "Responsible Technologies for Responsible People since 1988" 
> P Please consider the environment before printing this email.
>  
>  
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Generator recommendation request

2021-10-16 Thread Allan Sindelar
Mac, I appreciate your suggestion, thank you. Indeed, I called a longtime 
regional independent generator dealer about this before posting here. I was 
surprised that he has Kohler 12s and 14s in stock and available. I’ll go that 
route if I don’t hear better from our fellow Wrenches. 
Allan

> On Oct 16, 2021, at 7:29 PM, Mac Lewis  wrote:
> 
> Hi Allan,
> I suggest finding a local long-standing generator technician and see if they 
> can help provide the generator.  We see so many generators bought online with 
> no way to get service because there are no local and qualified service 
> technicians to service that brand.  If you buy from a local technician, or at 
> least ask for their advise, it may allow you to get service in the future 
> (maybe). 
> 
> We have had good success with Kohler 14 RESA or RCA machines, they do have 
> off grid warranties, but good luck getting them now. 
> 
> Let us know what you decide.
> Thanks
> 
>> On Fri, Oct 15, 2021, 4:42 PM MD Electric & Solar 
>>  wrote:
>> Check out Wildcat Generators, hand built in Kansas.
>> I just placed my first order for one. 10KW LPG 1800RPM liquid cooled, built 
>> to run 24/7. They even make a DC (battery direct) generator.
>> You can purchase through a master dealer in the Reno Nevada area, Freds 
>> Mountain Electric:
>> https://fredsmountain.com/
>> https://wildcatpowergen.com/
>> 
>>> On Fri, Oct 15, 2021 at 3:37 PM Sindelar Solar  
>>> wrote:
>>> Wrenches,
>>> Generators have become a moving target, especially for off grid 
>>> applications. Most are set up for grid backup, and I'm assuming that many 
>>> may simply be unavailable, given that half of most everything else is on 
>>> back-order with no expected delivery date... I'm seldom asked to recommend 
>>> a generator these days, but I am today, so I'm requesting recommendations 
>>> from other off grid-savvy Wrenches, please.
>>> 
>>> I'm working with an older (2014?) existing dual Outback VFX3524 system 
>>> which will be upgraded to dual VFXR-3648s to work with a 16kW Blue Ion LiFP 
>>> battery bank; 4kW array with upgrade infrastructure in place to later add 
>>> 2kW more if needed. Once the upgrade is done I expect relatively little 
>>> generator runtime. The customer would prefer LP fuel and 2-wire start (for 
>>> remote control). Pretty much any well-regarded model in the 8-14 kW @240 
>>> VAC rating range could work.
>>> 
>>> Thank you for your suggestions!
>>> Allan
>>> -- 
>>> Allan Sindelar
>>> al...@sindelarsolar.com
>>> NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
>>> New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
>>> Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
>>> 505 780-2738 cell
>>> 
>> -- 
>> Michael D Nelson
>> MD Electric & Solar Inc.
>> Office: 707-884-1862
>> Cell: 707-684-0064
>> www.mdelectricsolar.com
>> www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar
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Re: [RE-wrenches] 24-12v converter

2020-11-24 Thread Allan Sindelar
I have used several Meanwells and all have worked without fail. Watts in used 
Meanwells in the step-down converters for their trackers years ago and I never 
saw one of them fail either. 
IMHO, no thanks to adding another battery and panel; this approach is simpler 
and is maintenance free indefinitely. 
Allan

> On Nov 24, 2020, at 3:20 PM, Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar 
>  wrote:
> 
> a solar panel and a 12v deep cycle from Costco. Three year no questions
> warranty. Hard to beat for reliability compared to the junk out there.
> Gobble gobble!
> 
> 
> Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar
> "we go where powerlines don't"
> http://members.sti.net/offgridsolar/
> e-mail offgridso...@sti.net
> text 209 813 0060
> 
>> On Tue, 24 Nov 2020 15:23:07 -0500, Matthew Sherald 
>> wrote:
>> Samlex has worked well for me. 
>> I also have a 48-24V Meanwell that has held up well in an exterior
>> cabinet. 
>> 
>> -Matt
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
 On Nov 24, 2020, at 1:10 PM, jay  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi All,
>>> 
>>> Any recommendations for a small 5 amp or less at 12v  
>>> 
>>> 24v to 12v dc to dc converter? 
>>> 
>>> There are many  inexpensive ones out there but just checking to see if
>>> anyone has info on better ones:  high efficiency and reliability
>>> 
>>> thanks
>>> 
>>> jay
>>> 
>>> peltz power
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Small scale Maximisers/Optimisers.....

2020-08-02 Thread Allan Sindelar
Glenn, I don’t believe that UL listing is optional. I don’t believe it’s even 
available, nor even desirable, for a small component such as this. For an item 
that’s made in small quantities to serve a niche market, and low voltage DC at 
that, I can’t imagine what advantage UL listing would offer, especially if now 
a $150 product cost $250 to cover the cost of the listing process. 
Just sayin’...
Allan


> On Aug 2, 2020, at 5:48 PM, Glenn Burt  wrote:
> 
> 
> Ebay items – UL listing optional…
>  
> From: RE-wrenches  On Behalf Of Jay
> Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2020 5:22 PM
> To: RE-wrenches 
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Small scale Maximisers/Optimisers.
>  
> Hi John
>  
> Sunpumps makes a really good one. 
>  
> Here is a ebay link showing many of the new probably Chinese (not saying they 
> are bad) but they are way less expensive than the US versions. 
>  
> https://www.ebay.com/i/293234996712?chn=ps
>  
> I expect if you shop AliExpress you’ll find these exact items. 
>  
> Cheers
> Jay
>  
>  
>  
> 
> 
> On Aug 2, 2020, at 2:13 PM, John  wrote:
> 
> 
> Yes they are for positive displacement pumps – and the question was where can 
> you find them – who makes them…??
>  
> Thanks,  John
>  
> From: RE-wrenches  On Behalf Of 
> Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar
> Sent: Monday, 3 August 2020 3:10 am
> To: RE-wrenches 
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Small scale Maximisers/Optimisers.
>  
> Probably an RV water pump? And an LCB should work. Who makes a good LCB for 
> this Jay?
> 
>  
> Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar
> "we go where powerlines don't"
> http://members.sti.net/offgridsolar/
> e-mail  offgridso...@sti.net
> text 209 813 0060
> On Sun, 2 Aug 2020 07:34:34 -0700, Jay  wrote:
> 
> Hi john,
>  
> I'm not sure which pumps you are talking about. Are these positive 
> displacement, and if so then an LCB is what you need.
>  
> Jay
> 
> 
> 
> On Aug 2, 2020, at 6:26 AM, John  wrote:
> 
> Where can you find some small maximisers/optimisers for a solar-only pump.   
> This would be for a surface pump like the Flojet 11, 12 or 17 litre/min 
> pumps.  They tend to keep the pump operating when a cloud goes over or in 
> low-light conditions.I think they are available for the 9325 but its 
> probably over-kill for the Flojets.
> Cheers for suggestions – John Veix,N.Z.
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Two Dilemmas

2020-07-23 Thread Allan Sindelar
Howie, 
Your advice is misleading. You can’t add a ‘Grid Tie Interface’ to just any SW. 
it has to have the 4.10 firmware, and I think it also had an additional 
communication port and cable. The more common SWs had 4.01 firmware chipset, 
which was Trace’s best but wasn’t compatible with the GTI. 
It’s also a nonissue for Rick. If he’s just replacing batteries he doesn’t need 
to meet later or current Code, as the system is grandfathered. Besides, no 
Trace-branded inverter had to add the GTI to meet Code; that came only after 
Xanthrax - er, Xantrex - got a bit too uppity. 
Allan 

> On Jul 23, 2020, at 6:04 PM, Howie Michaelson  
> wrote:
> 
> If your in an area where you are inspected (our even if not) I believe you 
> are officially required to use a GTI box to sell back. As I remember it, it 
> really does next to nothing - it was just Trace's way to get UL listing for 
> selling back, since the SW failed a UL test at one point. It may be hard to 
> find one at this point.
> Howie
> 
> Howie Michaelson
> Sun Catcher
> NABCEP Certified Solar PV Installer™
> Solar Electric & Heat Pumps Systems Sales & Service
> 802-272-0004
> 
>> On Thu, Jul 23, 2020, 7:34 PM Tump  wrote:
>> Your missing the small writing on the black display bezel on the inverter….. 
>> “Hal 9000", “sorry Rick I can’t allow you to do that”. 
>> Your batteries, Have you removed or would like to know how to remove 
>> individual cells or are you trying to move the whole tray? If you want to 
>> call my cell # Ill be more then happy to offer my suggestions. I always try 
>> to use the larger cells so I have moved quite a few, and replaced quite a 
>> few cells too.
>> OR are you looking to find other options. 
>> The old SW 5548 was it working before you got there? depending on the year 
>> had a "grid inter tie box” . Are you expecting to see it sell after turning 
>> the unit on? Shorten up the Absorb time to 0, lower the sell voltage to 
>> below what the batteries are reading then see if it connects. remember it 
>> too has a grid lock out time if the “grid internee box is installed. 300secs 
>> i believe.
>> The sell mode was not to smooth w/ the “grid box” it would fluctuate from 
>> 1amp  to what the highest sell current setting, back n forth.
>> 
>>> On Jul 23, 2020, at 6:27 PM, Chris Sparadeo  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Dilemma #2 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On Thu, Jul 23, 2020 at 6:22 PM Jason Szumlanski 
  wrote:
 Chain hoist and muscle for the move. It's not easy. It can be hard to get 
 them out of the steel case. Slow and careful... I haven't done this a lot, 
 but the few times it was a dicey proposition.
 
 Jason Szumlanski
 
 
 
> On Thu, Jul 23, 2020 at 5:47 PM Rick Brown 
>  wrote:
> Wrenches,
> 
> Dilemma #1:
> 
> I’ve had to replace 4 sets of Solar One batteries (see pic). Each set 
> weighs in excess of 1000lbs. How have you all transported these? The 
> originals were placed into service prior to the room’s walls and roof 
> going up. 
> 
> 
> 
> Dilemma #2:
> 
> The above system is comprised of a Trace SW5548 along with two Outback 
> FM60s. After reprogramming the CCs and inverter with new charging 
> parameters, I can’t get the Trace to export excess production once the 
> batteries are charged. I do have the inverter set to “Sell” mode What am 
> I missing? I have had little experience with the Trace line. 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> rick brown
> SolShine Energy Alternatives, LLC
> Electrical & Solar Contracting Services
> www.SolShineEnergyAlternatives.com
> Check, Virginia 24072
> 540.808.9502
> 
> VA Class A Contractor Lic# 2705147660
> VA Master Electrician Lic# 2710062762
> VA Alternative Energy Systems Installer  
> NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional 110112-21
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Two Dilemmas

2020-07-23 Thread Allan Sindelar
Yes. That’s exactly what’s specified by NWES, and is a benefit of the 
nonconducting nylon strap.
Allan

> On Jul 23, 2020, at 5:25 PM, Rick Brown  
> wrote:
> 
> Allen,
> 
> Did you use the battery terminals to pull the cells? I don’t see any other 
> way to grab the cells. 
> 
> Great idea on the engine hoist!
> 
> rick brown
> SolShine Energy Alternatives, LLC
> Electrical & Solar Contracting Services
> www.SolShineEnergyAlternatives.com
> Check, Virginia 24072
> 540.808.9502
> 
> VA Class A Contractor Lic# 2705147660
> VA Master Electrician Lic# 2710062762
> VA Alternative Energy Systems Installer  
> NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional 110112-21
> 
>>> On Jul 23, 2020, at 7:03 PM, Allan Sindelar  wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> Rick:
>> 1) consider renting or buying an engine hoist to pull out the individual 
>> cells, and lowering each onto a hand truck for transport to your truck. I 
>> have done this several times - it’s actually not that difficult with a crew 
>> of two or three. 
>> Northwest Energy Storage (www.solarone com, I think) supplies a short, heavy 
>> nylon strap with clevises at each end for raising and lowering each cell. 
>> You might contact them to purchase one. 
>> At one remote site, the client suggested that I buy a cheap engine hoist 
>> from Harbor Freight, as it would be cheaper than renting a professional one. 
>> 
>> 2) the older Trace SW series is early technology in regards to its sell 
>> efficiency,  because of the lack of what was dubbed ‘silent sell’. The 
>> general number from when it was about the only game in town was about 55%. I 
>> would suggest upgrading to a modern unit if it’s primarily used for selling 
>> back. 
>> 
>> Allan Sindelar, Sindelar Solar
>> 
>>>> On Jul 23, 2020, at 3:47 PM, Rick Brown 
>>>>  wrote:
>>>> 
>>> Wrenches,
>>> 
>>> Dilemma #1:
>>> 
>>> I’ve had to replace 4 sets of Solar One batteries (see pic). Each set 
>>> weighs in excess of 1000lbs. How have you all transported these? The 
>>> originals were placed into service prior to the room’s walls and roof going 
>>> up. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Dilemma #2:
>>> 
>>> The above system is comprised of a Trace SW5548 along with two Outback 
>>> FM60s. After reprogramming the CCs and inverter with new charging 
>>> parameters, I can’t get the Trace to export excess production once the 
>>> batteries are charged. I do have the inverter set to “Sell” mode What am I 
>>> missing? I have had little experience with the Trace line. 
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> rick brown
>>> SolShine Energy Alternatives, LLC
>>> Electrical & Solar Contracting Services
>>> www.SolShineEnergyAlternatives.com
>>> Check, Virginia 24072
>>> 540.808.9502
>>> 
>>> VA Class A Contractor Lic# 2705147660
>>> VA Master Electrician Lic# 2710062762
>>> VA Alternative Energy Systems Installer  
>>> NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional 110112-21
>>> ___
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Two Dilemmas

2020-07-23 Thread Allan Sindelar
Rick:
1) consider renting or buying an engine hoist to pull out the individual cells, 
and lowering each onto a hand truck for transport to your truck. I have done 
this several times - it’s actually not that difficult with a crew of two or 
three. 
Northwest Energy Storage (www.solarone com, I think) supplies a short, heavy 
nylon strap with clevises at each end for raising and lowering each cell. You 
might contact them to purchase one. 
At one remote site, the client suggested that I buy a cheap engine hoist from 
Harbor Freight, as it would be cheaper than renting a professional one. 

2) the older Trace SW series is early technology in regards to its sell 
efficiency,  because of the lack of what was dubbed ‘silent sell’. The general 
number from when it was about the only game in town was about 55%. I would 
suggest upgrading to a modern unit if it’s primarily used for selling back. 

Allan Sindelar, Sindelar Solar

> On Jul 23, 2020, at 3:47 PM, Rick Brown  
> wrote:
> 
> Wrenches,
> 
> Dilemma #1:
> 
> I’ve had to replace 4 sets of Solar One batteries (see pic). Each set weighs 
> in excess of 1000lbs. How have you all transported these? The originals were 
> placed into service prior to the room’s walls and roof going up. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dilemma #2:
> 
> The above system is comprised of a Trace SW5548 along with two Outback FM60s. 
> After reprogramming the CCs and inverter with new charging parameters, I 
> can’t get the Trace to export excess production once the batteries are 
> charged. I do have the inverter set to “Sell” mode What am I missing? I have 
> had little experience with the Trace line. 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> rick brown
> SolShine Energy Alternatives, LLC
> Electrical & Solar Contracting Services
> www.SolShineEnergyAlternatives.com
> Check, Virginia 24072
> 540.808.9502
> 
> VA Class A Contractor Lic# 2705147660
> VA Master Electrician Lic# 2710062762
> VA Alternative Energy Systems Installer  
> NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional 110112-21
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Split Phase Load Rating

2020-05-26 Thread Allan Sindelar
I was referring only to the MS PAE series. 

> On May 26, 2020, at 1:51 AM, Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Which model magnum can do this please?
> 
>  
> 
> Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar
> "we go where powerlines don't"
> http://members.sti.net/offgridsolar/
> e-mail  offgridso...@sti.net
> text 209 813 0060
>> On Mon, 25 May 2020 19:26:07 -0600, Sindelar Solar  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I believe that Magnum can handle an imbalance of up to 85%. I haven't found 
>> this in the inverter manual, but believe that I got it from tech support.
>> 
>> Allan
>> 
>>> On 5/25/2020 4:03 PM, Jay wrote:
>>> Hi Mark
>>> This was a big advantage of the older FX inverters was the use of the 
>>> balancing transformer. The new FXR can't use it. 
>>> I can't find but I had to call OB to get some info on how much you could 
>>> out of balance a Radian inverter. It was like 60% ,could have been a bit 
>>> higher but wasn't 90-100% for sure. 
>>> Schneider xw is 75%
>>> I don't know about magnum. 
>>> And yea gotta try and figure out the load balance. 
>>> Jay
>>> Peltz Power. 
>> -- 
>> Allan Sindelar
>> al...@sindelarsolar.com
>> NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
>> New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
>> Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
>> 505 780-2738 cell
>> 
>>  
>> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] High Power Split phase inverter/chargers

2020-02-22 Thread Allan Sindelar
Jeff, according to Midnite’s website, their B-17 inverter can be up to 40 kW in 
2 kW increments. 
 Allan

> On Feb 22, 2020, at 8:05 PM, Jeff Clearwater  
> wrote:
> 
>  Ahh you're right all our 120/240 volt systems are less than 24 KW.  I was 
> thinking of 230 V 50hz systems with multi-cluster boxes.
> 
> How large can the Sol-Ark be stacked to?  Anyone with large Sol-Ark system 
> experience?
> 
> I hear Mornignstar and MidNite are working on surge capable off-grid 
> inverters.  Anyone have a insight as to their KW goals?
> 
> Best,
> 
> Jeff
> 
> wes kennedy wrote on 2/21/20 1:37 PM:
> 
>> Hi Jeff,
>> 
>> I think the biggest split phase sunny island system is 4 units, so that's 
>> 24KW. 
>> 
>> What do you do for larger systems? Segment the loads? Not always very 
>> practical. 
>> 
>> This latest opportunity is for an agricultural building that peaks at 75KW. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -Wes Kennedy 303-653-3073
>> 
>> 
>>> On Friday, February 21, 2020, 12:47:39 PM MST, Jeff Clearwater 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> All of my SMA Sunny Island Sunny Boy AC coupled systems greater than 12 KW 
>>> have worked flawlessly and delivered reliable power and good monitoring for 
>>> years.  Less excited about my Schneider and Outback systems due to 
>>> callbacks and hassles.  a bit more expensive but worth it IMHO.
>>> 
>>> Hope that helps!
>>> 
>>> Jeff
>>> 
>>> wes kennedy wrote on 2/21/20 9:41 AM:
>> 
>> Hi friends,
>> 
>> I keep running across opportunities with 50KW-300KW peak load requirements, 
>> on split phase services. Big homes, agriculture etc. 
>> 
>> Outback, Schneider, SMA can all gang/stack into the 30-50KW range, but north 
>> of there, I am not finding many (any?) options? 
>> 
>> Just found Aims Power 50 KW split phase unit with claims of higher power 
>> offerings by special order. Even the 50KW unit is $20K, so quite spendy. Any 
>> experience with these guys? 
>> 50kw - 50,000 WATT DC TO AC PURE SINE POWER INVERTER CHARGER 384 Vdc TO 
>> 220/230/240 Vac
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 50kw - 50,000 WATT DC TO AC PURE SINE POWER INVERTER CHARGER 384 Vdc TO ...
>> 50kw - 50,000 WATT DC TO AC PURE SINE POWER INVERTER CHARGER 384 Vdc Split 
>> Phase 220/230/240
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks for any input! 
>> 
>> -Wes Kennedy 303-653-3073
>> on this list since the 90's
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
>> -- 
>> ~~~
>> Jeff Clearwater
>> Village Power Design
>> linkedin 
>> www.villagepowerdesign.com
>> cell - 413-559-9763
>> ~~~
> 
> 
> -- 
> ~~~
> Jeff Clearwater
> Village Power Design
> linkedin 
> www.villagepowerdesign.com
> cell - 413-559-9763
> ~~~
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Re: [RE-wrenches] High Power Split phase inverter/chargers

2020-02-22 Thread Allan Sindelar

Jeff, according to Midnite’s website, their B-17 inverter can be up to 40 kW in 
2 kW increments. 
 Allan

>> On Feb 22, 2020, at 8:05 PM, Jeff Clearwater  
>> wrote:
>  Ahh you're right all our 120/240 volt systems are less than 24 KW.  I was 
> thinking of 230 V 50hz systems with multi-cluster boxes.
> 
> How large can the Sol-Ark be stacked to?  Anyone with large Sol-Ark system 
> experience?
> 
> I hear Mornignstar and MidNite are working on surge capable off-grid 
> inverters.  Anyone have a insight as to their KW goals?
> 
> Best,
> 
> Jeff
> 
> wes kennedy wrote on 2/21/20 1:37 PM:
> 
>> Hi Jeff,
>> 
>> I think the biggest split phase sunny island system is 4 units, so that's 
>> 24KW. 
>> 
>> What do you do for larger systems? Segment the loads? Not always very 
>> practical. 
>> 
>> This latest opportunity is for an agricultural building that peaks at 75KW. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -Wes Kennedy 303-653-3073
>> 
>> 
>> On Friday, February 21, 2020, 12:47:39 PM MST, Jeff Clearwater 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> All of my SMA Sunny Island Sunny Boy AC coupled systems greater than 12 KW 
>> have worked flawlessly and delivered reliable power and good monitoring for 
>> years.  Less excited about my Schneider and Outback systems due to callbacks 
>> and hassles.  a bit more expensive but worth it IMHO.
>> 
>> Hope that helps!
>> 
>> Jeff
>> 
>> wes kennedy wrote on 2/21/20 9:41 AM:
>> 
>> Hi friends,
>> 
>> I keep running across opportunities with 50KW-300KW peak load requirements, 
>> on split phase services. Big homes, agriculture etc. 
>> 
>> Outback, Schneider, SMA can all gang/stack into the 30-50KW range, but north 
>> of there, I am not finding many (any?) options? 
>> 
>> Just found Aims Power 50 KW split phase unit with claims of higher power 
>> offerings by special order. Even the 50KW unit is $20K, so quite spendy. Any 
>> experience with these guys? 
>> 50kw - 50,000 WATT DC TO AC PURE SINE POWER INVERTER CHARGER 384 Vdc TO 
>> 220/230/240 Vac
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 50kw - 50,000 WATT DC TO AC PURE SINE POWER INVERTER CHARGER 384 Vdc TO ...
>> 50kw - 50,000 WATT DC TO AC PURE SINE POWER INVERTER CHARGER 384 Vdc Split 
>> Phase 220/230/240
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks for any input! 
>> 
>> -Wes Kennedy 303-653-3073
>> on this list since the 90's
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
>> -- 
>> ~~~
>> Jeff Clearwater
>> Village Power Design
>> linkedin 
>> www.villagepowerdesign.com
>> cell - 413-559-9763
>> ~~~
> 
> 
> -- 
> ~~~
> Jeff Clearwater
> Village Power Design
> linkedin 
> www.villagepowerdesign.com
> cell - 413-559-9763
> ~~~
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Re: [RE-wrenches] combining 24v and 12v systems

2019-12-31 Thread Allan Sindelar
Agreed: no 12v tap. I’ll add (with modest experience, as this doesn’t come up 
as an upgrade very often any more) that Mean Well, despite the odd name, proved 
itself pretty reliable in some early Wattsun tracker drives and some other 
DC-DC applications. Available online; see 
https://www.meanwell-web.com/en-gb/dcdc-converters/
Allan

> On Dec 31, 2019, at 10:46 AM, Dan Fink  wrote:
> 
> I second everyone. Center-tapping a 24 or 48v battery bank for 12v SEEMS like 
> it should work just fine, especially for low load infrequent use like a 12v 
> water pressure pump for a greenhouse, a weather station, etc.. Nope, I've 
> been a loser every time, with that battery or pair always the first to go bad.
> 
> Samlex and Victron both make DC-DC converters I have had good luck with; they 
> are thermally protected and you can stack multiple units for more amperage.
> 
> Dan Fink
> Executive Director, Buckville Energy Consulting
> NABCEP PV Associate
> NABCEP Certified PV System Inspector
> IREC Certified Instructor™ for: 
> ~ PV Installation Professional
> ~ Small Wind Installer
> NABCEP Registered Continuing Education Providers
> danbo...@gmail.com
> 970-672-4342
> 
>  
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Dec 31, 2019 at 10:57 AM Ray  wrote:
>> Even with battery balancers, battery tapping is still a really bad idea.  I 
>> know, I did it on my own system in the 90s.  The DC/DC converters are the 
>> way to go, but be sure and over size it by a fair amount to handle the 
>> fridge starting surge.  Unfortunately my favorites are no longer available: 
>> made by Solar Converters in Canada. I've seen them last decades.  Iota 
>> should be good stuff, their chargers have long term reliability.  Samlex 
>> inverters have been around for quite a while too, but I don't have long term 
>> experience with their converters.  
>> 
>> Ray Walters
>> Remote Solar
>> 303 505-8760
>>> On 12/31/19 10:05 AM, Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar wrote:
>>> Tapping a battery bank is not a good practice. it will unbalance the bank. 
>>> Much better to add a 24V electronic converter for the 12V loads. Then 
>>> replace the 12V loads when time permits. They will need a spare converter 
>>> so buy 2. Amazon has tons of these converters. Your quote is great BTW. H N 
>>> Y !
>>> 
>>>  
>>> Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar
>>> "we go where powerlines don't"
>>> http://members.sti.net/offgridsolar/
>>> e-mail  offgridso...@sti.net
>>> text 209 813 0060
 On Tue, 31 Dec 2019 11:52:20 -0500, Chris Schaefer 
  wrote:
 
 G'day and Happy New Year to All,
  
 Recently came across this offgrid OB FX system. The first part is a 12v 
 battery system w/ 2 PV modules, 2 Trojan L16  batteries used to power a 
 frig and freezer about 6 years old. The second is a 24v with 3kw of PV, 4 
 Trojan L16's, twin OB FX inverters installed by an HVAC contractor back in 
 2016. This was their first offgrid project. Oh boy, lol. The client would 
 like to add more battery capacity to both. My thought here is since we are 
 powering only a 12v frig and freezer why not simplify the system by 
 creating a single battery bank and then tapping off of the 24v bank using 
 proper fusing and creating a 12v buss? Admittedly I live in a 48v world so 
 I'm asking our esteemed colleges as to options on how to address this. 
  
 Oh yeah, the installer is unresponsive (no surprise there) and they are 
 also having firmware issues with an old Mate 3 and would like me to 
 install a new Mate 3s but that's another issue I'll tackle when I head out 
 to site. 
  
 Thanks All,
 Christopher- 
 Chris Schaefer's
 
 Tel/Fax 585-229-2083 or Cell 585-748-1870 
 5115 South Hill Road ~ Canandaigua New York 14424
 www.solarandwindfx.com ~ E-mail: ch...@solarandwindfx.com
 
 
 
 Thomas Jefferson, the author of our great Constitution, once said, 
 "democracy" will cease to exist when you take away from those who are 
 willing to work and give to those who would not."
 
>>> -- 
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>>> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] HUP cell removal

2019-11-08 Thread Allan Sindelar
Agreed on all points, and one more. The Northwest Energy Storage 
(www.hupsolarone.com) website is unsurpassed, and set up so that I can send 
clients to it, for dimensions and weights, capacities, proper care, min/max 
charging rates... and retail prices, so no questions about what the cost will 
be. 
Allan
(P.S. - worst battery website: Ibe-inc.com for IBE industrial FLA batteries. 
Useless lack of info that hasn’t been updated since the WWW was invented.)

> On Nov 8, 2019, at 9:57 AM, Jeff Clearwater  
> wrote:
> 
> Yes I like the HUPS for many of the same reasons Ray wrote:  I also like that 
> depending on the site I can choose to move them in 900-1800 lb units (6 of 
> the 2V cells in one steel can depending on model) or remove them individually 
> (150-300lbs) and move them that way if needed.
> 
> The install time if moved in the cans is only 3 intertie cables.  I do 
> recommend that folks re-torque the factory installed interties though as they 
> seem to loosen with thermal cycling.
> 
> They also come with a great warranty and free shipping - the steel cases make 
> them great for shipping to developing world in a container.
> 
> And I've received nothing but the best service from NW Energy Storage.
> 
> They are my go-to battery for wet cell Pb-acid for sure for large systems.
> 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> Jeff Clearwater
> Village Power Design
> 
> 
> Ray wrote on 11/7/19 7:09 AM:
> 
>> They are made up of removable 2 v cells, and they are much better than the 
>> Surrettes.  They come with all the interconnects prewired, have a better 
>> warranty, longer cycle life, free shipping, and most importantly they 
>> Perform better.  They will outlast all of the batteries you listed, not just 
>> on paper, but in real life.  They also hold their voltage under load much 
>> better than the Surrettes.  Once customers go with the HUPs, we quit having 
>> to worry about them.  
>> 
>> We primarily have our power equipment in the garage of the house, then use a 
>> Bob cat to move the batteries straight off the truck and into their final 
>> resting place in under 30 minutes.  I sold and installed some of the other 
>> brands before settling on the HUPs many years ago. The previous install Pic 
>> was just demonstrating how they can be disassembled if needed, here's how we 
>> do it most of the time:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Ray Walters
>> Remote Solar
>> 303 505-8760
>>> On 11/7/19 7:27 AM, frenergy wrote:
>>> I'm with you, the replacement battery for these HUPs are Surrettes.
>>> 
>>>> On 11/7/2019 4:26 AM, Tump wrote:
>>>> My question is WHY do folks still install these steel cased Pain the A*& 
>>>> BBs when we have 2 volt cells (UnigiII/Surrette/Crown)that have up to 
>>>> 2400AH @20hr rate and are easily moved by hand, fork truck, shovel! 2 volt 
>>>> cells is always the way to go.
>>>>> On Nov 5, 2019, at 11:47 PM, Ray  wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> We've used an engine hoist before, but for tight spaces, we built a rig 
>>>>> out of unistrut with a small block and tackle.  Come along can be hard to 
>>>>> use, and puts dangerous metal parts over the battery.
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> I've since gone to a winch system, and also try to move the batteries on 
>>>>> rollers without taking the cells out.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Ray Walters
>>>>> Remote Solar
>>>>> 303 505-8760
>>>>>> On 11/5/19 6:36 AM, Michael Packard wrote:
>>>>>> I did this exact same thing for a 48v Hup one battery bank.  Engine 
>>>>>> hoist worked like a charm and my back was very thankful! 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 12:09 AM Allan Sindelar 
>>>>>>>  wrote:
>>>>>>> Bill, I just did that a month ago, and it went amazingly smoothly. 
>>>>>>> Earlier, on a similar HUP replacement, I told the (absentee) client 
>>>>>>> that I would rent an engine hoist to lift the cells out of the steel 
>>>>>>> cases, and he advised me that it would cost him less labor and travel 
>>>>>>> if I bought one of the Chinese engine hoists from Harbor Freight for 
>>>>>>> $90 and just kept it. Turned out to be a good application for CCC 
>>>>>>> (thanks, Bob-O). A concrete floor, the engine hoist, a simple hand 
>>>>

Re: [RE-wrenches] HUP cell removal

2019-11-04 Thread Allan Sindelar
Bill, I just did that a month ago, and it went amazingly smoothly. Earlier, on 
a similar HUP replacement, I told the (absentee) client that I would rent an 
engine hoist to lift the cells out of the steel cases, and he advised me that 
it would cost him less labor and travel if I bought one of the Chinese engine 
hoists from Harbor Freight for $90 and just kept it. Turned out to be a good 
application for CCC (thanks, Bob-O). A concrete floor, the engine hoist, a 
simple hand truck and a strong assistant to share the load made light work of 
both removal and installation - all 4,000 pounds of it, one 200 lb. cell at a 
time... so I went dancing that evening. 
Allan

> On Nov 4, 2019, at 9:46 PM, frenergy  wrote:
> 
> I'm going to have to remove the cells from 4 HUP Solar1 battery cases to 
> change-out the pack (no option, bad access).  Anyone ever had problems 
> come-a-longing from above the first cell and if so, what's the 
> solution?...and what are you doing tomorrow?
> 
> Thx,
> 
> Bill
> 
> Feather River Solar Electric
> Bill Battagin, Owner
> 4291 Nelson St.
> Taylorsville, CA 95983
> 530.284.7849
> CA Lic 874049
> www.frenergy.net
> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Off Grid Optimizers

2019-10-30 Thread Allan Sindelar
Drake, I must be old school - why use optimizers?
Allan


> On Oct 30, 2019, at 1:00 PM, drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org wrote:
> 
> Hello Wrenches,
> 
> What is the best combination of charge controller and optimizer to use with 
> an off grid, battery based system? What combinations are problematic? 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Drake
> Athens Electric
> 740-856-9648
> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] 24 volt LiFePO4 Battery options

2019-09-26 Thread Allan Sindelar
Howie, I’m fully in your court. Just today I replaced 2000 pounds of 18 year 
old HUPs with 1800 pounds of... HUPs. It’s a full rebuild of a 24v system from 
the mid-80s, and the scales on a system that vintage couldn’t justify a 48v 
system. 
I have asked Blue Planet more than once if they plan to one day develop a 24v 
Blue Zion package, and the answer has each time been no. So I’d like to hear if 
there’s a 24V option of equal quality and BMS sophistication. 
Thanks!
Allan Sindelar 
> On Sep 26, 2019, at 3:17 PM, Howie Michaelson  
> wrote:
> 
> I get what you are saying Jerry, but this client ( a retiring teacher in a 
> very rural, low wage school district, sadly) has lived very lightly off-grid 
> (1kW solar, 24v Rolls KS21s original batteries) for 18 years years and has no 
> pressing need to upgrade his VFX3524 inverter. I'd rather find a good 24volt 
> option to compare a straight KS21 replacement to.  I know the inverter could 
> crap out at any time, but if it ain't broke...
> Howie
> 
>> On Thu, Sep 26, 2019 at 5:03 PM Jerry Shafer  
>> wrote:
>> Dollars and sence, drop the 24 volt, BPI is a great battery. Once l show my 
>> customers all the benefits of a 48 volt upgrade it wins every time. I am not 
>> talking about busses, RV's and one night stands l am talking about off grid 
>> homes. 
>> 
>>> On Thu, Sep 26, 2019, 1:53 PM Howie Michaelson  
>>> wrote:
>>> Hi all,
>>> I've been using BlueIon batteries recently both on- and off-grid, and 
>>> really like them so far, although I have limited time on them so not a ton 
>>> of experience yet.  I am wondering what folks are liking for 24 v LiFePO4 
>>> battery options.  I have 24 volt off-grid clients who are not ready to swap 
>>> out to 48v, but might be interested in Lithium batteries. TIA,
>>> Howie
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Damaged in shipping

2019-07-02 Thread Allan Sindelar
Dave, 
Two more pieces... 
- keep notes and records of dates, times, activities and results for the entire 
process. 
- stay in regular communication with your clients, so that you’re working with 
them rather than for them. 
Allan Sindelar, Sindelar Solar

> On Jul 2, 2019, at 1:26 PM, Dave Tedeyan  wrote:
> 
> Hi All, 
> Thanks for the thoughts and opinions. It helps me a lot to get other opinions 
> from people who have been doing this much longer than I. I am leaning towards 
> the "don't charge any more until the issue is settled and then come up with a 
> fair price" with the customer. Fortunately, I know that they are good people, 
> who are also well connected in the area, so keeping a good relationship with 
> them is certainly important.
> Cheers, 
> Dave
> 
> Dave Tedeyan, PE
> Senior Engineer | Taitem Engineering, PC
> 
> 110 South Albany Street | Ithaca, NY 14850
> o. 607.277.1118 x121  f. 607.277.2119
> www.taitem.com
> 
> Solar • Sustainability • Energy • Design
> B-Corporation Best for the World 2018 Honoree
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Jul 1, 2019 at 3:03 PM Jerry Shafer  wrote:
>> Dave
>> Wow it really sounds like a mess, logically you would charge the customer 
>> for your time but ethically or morally or as a humanitarian you would 
>> discount the cost, l have been in your shoes and it is a difficult position. 
>> I would have a conversation with the customer detailing your time and costs 
>> and come up with a number. Sure you can say it's this much and that's it but 
>> we are all in business to stay in business so customer satisfaction and good 
>> words go a long way to referrals.
>> Jerry 
>> 
>>> On Mon, Jul 1, 2019, 8:32 AM Dave Tedeyan  wrote:
>>> Hi All, 
>>> I thought I would pick the hive mind to get some thoughts on whose 
>>> responsibility it is when you service a system and things go wrong beyond 
>>> your control.
>>> 
>>> Here is the situation:
>>> Outback Radian GS8048 inverter (out of warranty) goes offline and stops 
>>> working. Customer calls me to check it out, and in the meantime, they had 
>>> an electrician rewire the backed up loads to bypass the inverter (not 
>>> realizing there was a simple bypass switch...). By the time I get there the 
>>> inverter is working again. I wire the backed up loads back to the inverter, 
>>> educate them about the bypass switch, and call Outback. We see some 
>>> erroneous data on Optics, and so they suggest I replace all the ethernet 
>>> cables with shielded cat5e. I do that, and charge the customer for the 
>>> visit.
>>> 
>>> A few days later, the inverter goes stops working again. I go back out and 
>>> this time the issue is still active. Outback suspects it is one of the 
>>> control boards, which cannot be field replaced. So the choices are send the 
>>> whole inverter to Outback, or get a new Power stack for about $2500. So I 
>>> send the inverter in. I offer to the customer to not have them pay for my 
>>> labor this visit, since they already paid me to fix this issue and it did 
>>> not work.
>>> 
>>> Outback tests the inverter, finds no fault, although I ask them to replace 
>>> the board anyway, since the fault was intermittent. They tested it and it 
>>> was working then it left their facility. I receive it in a rough looking 
>>> box. I go reinstall it, and the mate3 sees it, and the communications are 
>>> okay, which is the original issue that I sent it in for. But now it will 
>>> not put out any AC voltage. So a completely different issue, but still a 
>>> useless piece of equipment in its current state. Tech support and I cannot 
>>> determine exactly what is wrong after running through some troubleshooting 
>>> steps, so they say I need to send it back to their facility. The best I can 
>>> come up with is that it got damaged during shipment on the way back. (I was 
>>> not excited to see that they left some poor Fedex driver to handle a 130lb 
>>> package on their own) So the inverter is currently in transit back to 
>>> Outback.
>>> 
>>> Here is the question:
>>> Would you all be charging the customer for all the time spent on 
>>> troubleshooting and shipping, or at some point do you eat some of these 
>>> costs? Even though (I am fairly certain) that I have done nothing negligent 
>>> and none of this is my fault... but I am still not sure if it is right to 
>>> charge the customer for all this back and forth when my actions have not 
>>> resulted in a fixe

Re: [RE-wrenches] Blue Planet Batteries

2019-04-04 Thread Allan Sindelar
Howie, 
I have installed these in two existing systems (one 48 kwhr, one 16 kwhr), with 
a third in the pipeline. So far excellent performance and dealer support. 
Allan Sindelar 

> On Apr 4, 2019, at 8:59 AM, Howie Michaelson  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> Anyone have any experience/knowledge about Blue Ion batteries?
> Thanks,
> Howie 
> Howie Michaelson
> Sun Catcher
> NABCEP Certified Solar PV Installer™
> 
> Solar Electric Systems Sales & Service
> 802-272-0004
> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Magnum Inverters - Digital Clocks Losing Time?

2019-04-01 Thread Allan Sindelar
Rich, this is a known flaw in the Magnum AE and PAE series. I have one longtime 
client for whom I supplied a 4448AE around 2009 who later told me that had he 
known of this frequency issue he wouldn’t have selected Magnum. 
Allan Sindelar 

> On Apr 1, 2019, at 6:56 AM, Christopher Warfel 
>  wrote:
> 
> I would think it has to be frequency. What else could shift the time?  Up 
> until about 2 years ago we were a grid isolated system and no one could use a 
> plug in the wall clock. It takes just a very little off 60 Hz for a clock to 
> keep incorrect time. Being off .5 Hz will result in 42,300 cycles in one day. 
> When I worked in power plants the frequency was a digital display to the 6th 
> place I think. The operator said if that decimal place was off by more than 2 
> from ISONE, it would trip off line. The steam turbines would be destroyed 
> otherwise. Chris
> 
>> On 4/1/2019 7:08 AM, Rich Nicol wrote:
>> Hello Wrenches
>> I have a site with two PAE 48v Magnum inverters stacked. System voltage 
>> fluctuates ~ +/- 4 volts ranging from 243 to 247. Evenly split on the two 
>> lines.
>> Site has a few electrical peculiarities I haven’t seen on the many other 
>> sites I have with Magnum inverters. Among those is three digital clocks on 
>> appliances that lose ~ 5 min per day consistently. A forth clock which is on 
>> a weather station with a transformer where it plugs into a receptacle keeps 
>> time and of course the computers do as they are web connected.
>> I checked all neutral connections and verified proper N-G bond.
>> All connections appropriately torqued.
>> My recollection is the modest voltage swings are within Magnum spec. But its 
>> constantly moving about which seems somewhat suspect to me.
>> Any suggestions?
>> Thanks
>> RIch
>> 
>> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] 48 V Coil 50 A contacts

2018-12-03 Thread Allan Sindelar
Have you checked out MDI mercury contractors? Available with a variety of dc 
cool voltages and 50A. 
Allan

> On Dec 3, 2018, at 4:01 PM, drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know where I might find a relay / contactor with a 48V DC coil 
> and 50 A 120/240 Vac contacts. Among the many suppliers I've contacted are 
> Grainger, Digi-Key, Mouser, the WWW, etc. The system I've ended up designing 
> with what I have found is a kluge to just have a Morning Star Relay Driver 
> disconnect the output of an inverter.. AC coupling 48 V inverters seems to 
> always have the glitch of finding a relay. 
> 
> Catalogues will show these, but suppliers don't have them. 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Drake 
> 
> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trackers

2018-09-06 Thread Allan Sindelar
What am I missing here, Bill? If the tracker costs $10,000 (plus installation) 
to carry 24 modules, that's $416 per module, which is more than the cost of the 
modules themselves. I don't get the point of doing this. It almost sounds like 
consumer vanity - "Folks do like to watch the slow dance of the modules". 
How can tracking be justified?

Allan Sindelar
Sindelar Solar
505 780-2738

> On Sep 6, 2018, at 1:26 PM, Bill Hennessy  wrote:
> 
> Chris--
> 
> We installed two 24-module AllEarth dual-axis trackers at the request of a 
> homeowner two years ago--"I like companies that are from Vermont."
> inspite of a higher cost as compared to a ground mount equivalent w Krinner 
> groundscrews.
> 
> You can buy either the tracker alone or complete kits. The 24-module tracker 
> is about $10,000. The concrete base was fairly easy to install. I think the 
> hole was 4x4x4 with rebar crosshatch. The frame is assembled on the ground 
> and lifted to the pole (you need about a18-foot lift). Our mini excavator was 
> barely tall enough. We did the frame layout and assembly on the excavator 
> trailer and it worked well. If you go to Vermont, they have a free two-day 
> training program where you assemble a tracker.
> 
> One of the trackers had an early issue with a stuck hydraulic valve. Warranty 
> service was prompt and knowledgeable and we haven't had issues since. We did 
> have to upsize the Fronius inverters. My design mistake. I typically oversize 
> the array to the inverter, but in the spring, the arrays were always 
> clipping. 
> 
> Folks do like to watch the slow dance of the modules.
>  
> Bill Hennessy
> Berks Solar, LLC
> 371 Centennial Rd
> Mertztown, PA 19539
> 
> o 610 682 4300
> c 484 560 4666
> NABCEP certified installer
> PA contractor #44411
> www.berkssolar.com
> 
> 
> From: "ch...@oasismontana.com" 
> To: 'RE-wrenches'  
> Sent: Thursday, September 6, 2018 3:37 PM
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Trackers
> 
> Hi Folks:  I appreciate the input but I am looking for TYPES of trackers that 
> you may be selling (and yes, I told him about adding more & cheaper solar 
> modules than investing in a tracker, but it’s the customer’s decision).  
> Zomeworks is not what the client wants; I would prefer dual axis; the 
> customer’s in north central CA with a good resource.  I say go with Array 
> Technologies but I would think there must be something new and improved by 
> now.
>  
> --Chris Daum/Oasis Montana
>  
>  
> From: RE-wrenches  On Behalf Of 
> Dana
> Sent: Thursday, September 6, 2018 9:18 AM
> To: 'RE-wrenches' 
> Subject: [RE-wrenches] Trackers
>  
> I second this observation.
>  
> I now live again off grid in a narrow N-S canyon in south central Idaho. 
> Having limited ground space [thanks to county regs] & not wanting roof 
> mounted arrays to have to clear snow from, trackers VS. fix top of pole 
> mounts enhance my output & they reduced the # of modules required for my 
> homes projected load design.
>  
> 6400 watts rated output on 2 Array Tech tracking arrays. Fixed would have 
> required 3 arrays & 6-8 more modules. Trackers are programed to full vertical 
> in winter to shed overnight snow dumps, this saves time & effort in the 
> morning when it’s a Powder day! Can’t miss those Powder mornings.
> 5400 watts per hour in the summer when hot.
> Up to 8400 watts per hour on a cold winter day. Exactly what I needed 31+% 
> additional output with a 4-hour window of sun at New Year’s Day. So far, my 
> generator has never started…
>  
> *A repeat from a previous RE conversation years ago, I had to see for myself 
> &:
> Last house in CO, I had [6] 250-watt mod on a tracker & [6] 250-watt mod on a 
> fixed roof array.
> The tracker consistently outproduced the fixed array by 32% averaged over the 
> year.
>  
> Trackers have their place and advantages. That said, with todays $/watt o 
> modules if you have the space fixed is a more cost-effective way to proceed.
>  
> Signed - A 25-year tracker advocate.
>  
> 
> Dana Orzel  Great Solar Works, Inc.
> C - 208.721.7003   d...@solarwork.com
> Idaho Contractor - # 028765 Idaho PV # 028374
> NABCEP # 051112-136   www.solarwork.biz
> "Responsible Technologies for Responsible People since 1988" 
> P Please consider the environment before printing this email.
>  
>  
> From: RE-wrenches  On Behalf Of 
> Chris Schaefer
> Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2018 8:27 AM
> To: RE-wrenches 
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Trackers
>  
&

Re: [RE-wrenches] Large off grid

2018-07-23 Thread Allan Sindelar
Aaron,
In thirty years my largest off grid residence (2005 install) had four Outback 
VFX3648s, with the inner two in the Quad Stack included primarily as slave 
battery chargers. Principle One still holds, even with today’s numerous 
exceptions: electricity is a high quality form of energy, best suited to 
specific uses - lighting, electronics, drive power. Shift (most) bulk uses of 
electricity to other forms of energy. 
I wouldn’t spend my unbilled hours designing a system to meet an arbitrary 200A 
service. 
Hope this helps,
Allan Sindelar, Sindelar Solar 

> On Jul 23, 2018, at 4:35 PM, Peter Giroux  wrote:
> 
> Aaron
>  
>   Can use up to 8 radians "stacked " through their hub. One mate should 
> control all of them. The Radians are solid and deliver a very good value.
>  
> thx
> peter 
> - Original Message -
> From: Aaron Mandelkorn
> To: RE-wrenches
> Sent: Monday, July 23, 2018 7:28 PM
> Subject: [RE-wrenches] Large off grid
> 
> What do you say to the person who wants "200 amp" electrical service from 
> their off grid system.  I generally use Schneider xw+ inverters.  Is it even 
> possible to put 4 or 6 of them together? How many radians can be put 
> together? I'm curious to know how others would proceed or is this to 
> unreasonable to spend my time on.
> 
> Aaron Mandelkorn
> President / Founder
> Renewable Energy Outfitters
> www.reosolar.com
> Off Grid Depot
> www.offgridnow.com
> 970-596-3744
> 
>
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Re: [RE-wrenches] adjustable back legs for mounts

2017-10-24 Thread Allan Sindelar
Try Jeff Randall at RC Fab in Albuquerque. j...@solarrackworks.com, 
‭(505) 288-5552‬. 

Allan

> On Oct 24, 2017, at 4:48 PM, jay  wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I’m having trouble finding adjustable slide style back legs for a client who 
> wants to adjust his low profile array.
> I can’t find them from Iron Ridge, Unirack, DPW, 
> 
> Where/who can I get them from?
> 
> thanks
> 
> jay
> 
> peltz power
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Re: [RE-wrenches] OFF-LINE REPLY - Re: Sanyo HIT210N dimensions

2017-08-23 Thread Allan Sindelar
You might also consider Solar Rackworks. Run in Albuquerque by Jeff Randall, 
formerly the engineer at DP Well built, clean design, easy to work with. 
Allan Sindelar,
Sindelar Solar 

> On Aug 23, 2017, at 10:48 AM, Jeremy Rodriguez <allsolarjer...@msn.com> wrote:
> 
> Me too !
> but DPW wants the horizontal hole to hole spacing as if the module is in 
> portrait mode. 
> 
> 
> Jeremy Rodriguez 
> Solar Installation And 
> Design Expert 
> All Solar, Inc.
> 1463 M St
> Penrose Colorado 81240
> 
> Sent by Jeremy's iPhone. Sorry for typos and shorthand!
> 
>> On Aug 23, 2017, at 9:24 AM, Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar 
>> <offgridso...@sti.net> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Attached screen shot! Is this enough? It is for me...--Dave Angelini
>> Offgrid Solar
>> 
>> 
>> Dave Jeremy RodriguezDave
>>> I have seen all the spec sheets. I need the horizontal, hole to hole
>>> dimensions.
>>> 
>>> Jeremy Rodriguez
>>> Solar Installation And
>>> Design Expert
>>> All Solar, Inc.
>>> 1463 M St
>>> Penrose Colorado 81240
>>> 
>>> Sent by Jeremy's iPhone. Sorry for typos and shorthand!
>>> 
>>>> On Aug 21, 2017, at 8:01 PM, Exeltech <exelt...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> OFF-LINE Reply:
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Jeremy,
>>>> 
>>>> The HIT210 and HIT 215 modules are mechanically identical.  The only
>>>> difference was (is) a slightly higher cell efficiency in the 215.
>>>> 
>>>> This PDF has the placement and diameter of the holes in the frame.
>>>> 
>>>> Enjoy.
>>>> 
>>>> Dan
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On Mon, 8/21/17, Jeremy Rodriguez <allsolarjer...@msn.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Subject: [RE-wrenches] Sanyo HIT210N dimensions
>>>> To: "re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org"
>>>> <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org>
>>>> Date: Monday, August 21, 2017, 8:13 PM
>>>> Hello
>>>> Does anyone happen to have access to a HIT210N module they could
>>>> measure?
>>>> I'm in need of the mounting hole dims. See below.
>>>> page1image480
>>>> 
>>>> Jeremy Rodriguez
>>>> Solar Installation And
>>>> Design Expert
>>>> All Solar, Inc.
>>>> 1463 M St
>>>> Penrose Colorado 81240
>>>> 
>>>> Sent by Jeremy's iPhone. Sorry for typos and shorthand!
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Jeremy Rodriguez
>>>> Solar Installation And
>>>> Design Expert
>>>> All Solar, Inc.
>>>> 1463 M St
>>>> Penrose Colorado 81240
>>>> 
>>>> Sent by Jeremy's iPhone. Sorry for typos and shorthand!
>>>> 
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>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar
>> "we go where powerlines don't"
>> http://members.sti.net/offgridsolar/
>> e-mail  offgridso...@sti.net
>> text 209 813 0060
>> <210N.PNG>
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Replacement for the Shurflo 9325 pump....

2017-01-16 Thread Allan Sindelar

John and Jay,
What Windy wrote didn't jive with me, so I called him to check. Indeed 
there's an error, and Windy can address it later, as he was rushing out 
the door when I called.


Sunpumps is the respected successor to Solarjack of years gone by. The 
SunRotor was developed and is distributed by Solar Power and Pump, 
http://www.solarpowerandpump.com. The rest of the info is OK.

Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 cell*

**

On 1/16/2017 4:30 PM, Windy Dankoff wrote:

Hi John / and Jay

Jay is correct to recommend that you consider Sunpumps or something 
like that. To be more specific, Sunpumps has a line called SunRotor 
www.sunrotor.com <http://www.sunrotor.com>.  Along with Lorentz HR and 
Grundfos SQF, these are HELICAL ROTOR (progressive cavity) pumps. 
Eventually, I believe they will send Shurflo and other diaphragm pumps 
packing to the scrap heap. They have one moving part / brushless motor 
/ easy to service and in general, far greater life expectancy without 
any demand for preventive maintenance like diaphragm pumps. Pump rotor 
and stator will last many years if water is generally clean.


I’m including much about this in my upcoming book, so I’m pretty up to 
date.


Lorentz and Grundfos are oversized when looking for replacement for 
Shurflo, and they run 48V nominal and up. (Shurflo is 24V) SunRotor 
has a niche in the low power end, starting at 24V. You may find 
something compatible or easy to adapt to the existing system.


Several Chinese companies are producing helical rotor (HR) subs, so 
you may find something if you search. When I search I get Alibaba 
pages, from which you can order (like Amazon), but they don’t give 
complete specs. They even get terminology mixed up and who-knows what 
else. But from there, you can search the manufacturers directly by 
name and make direct contact. OR You may find someone in your quarter 
of the planet who distributes them, which is ideal.


At least SOME of those Chinese pumps are good. I can’t say which.

Hope this helps.
Windy Dankoff // Co-author, upcoming book: Solar Water Pumping (Taylor 
& Francis, London)



On Jan 16, 2017, at 12:13 PM, 
re-wrenches-requ...@lists.re-wrenches.org 
<mailto:re-wrenches-requ...@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:


*From:*"John" <j...@gosolar.co.nz <mailto:j...@gosolar.co.nz>>
*Subject:**[RE-wrenches] Replacement for the Shurflo 9325 pump*
*Date:*January 15, 2017 at 3:04:07 PM MST
*To:*<re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org 
<mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org>>
*Reply-To:*RE-wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org 
<mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org>>



Hi all,   can any pumping guys recommend a simple straightforward 
replacement for the Shurflo 9325.   The one in question has worked 
faithfully for a number of years now and has already been repaired 
once, but they don’t last forever.

Of course replacement parts availability is always important.
The 9325 was a good all ‘round inexpensive workhorse but the 
application does not warrant replacing with a more expensive pump 
like Lorentz, etc.

Thanks for any suggestions – John Veix,   N.Z.



*From:*jay <jay.pe...@gmail.com <mailto:jay.pe...@gmail.com>>
*Subject:**Re: [RE-wrenches] Replacement for the Shurflo 9325 pump*
*Date:*January 15, 2017 at 3:08:55 PM MST
*To:*RE-wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org 
<mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org>>
*Reply-To:*RE-wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org 
<mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org>>



Hi John,

If you are looking for something similar to the 9325 but better then.
Check out Sunpumps.
Much better pump because of the superior case,  cheaper, more 
reliable and easier to repair


Also Sunpumps make some really nice LCB controls.

jay
peltz power





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Re: [RE-wrenches] Conext SW 4024 with bad firmware

2016-12-29 Thread Allan Sindelar

Lou,
I would add that this problem could be solved by removing any auto gen 
start function and controlling the generator manually. Then the default 
start/stop procedure is user-controlled: check monitor/start 
gennie/check operation; when done, turn off charging at SCP/cool 
down/shut off gennie. Voila! no low-hertz glitches. I have long 
discouraged auto-start in residential off grid systems, recommending 
instead user involvement and manual operation of the gennie.


I have installed several SW Conext systems, so far without a single 
issue after commissioning. I applaud Schneider's efforts to turn the 
wreckage that they paid Xantrex way too much for into a decent product 
line with good support.

Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 cell*

**

On 12/29/2016 1:35 PM, Ray Walters wrote:
I've seen  similar weirdness with many systems of various brands. The 
issue seems to be having the generator shutting down while still under 
load, with as you noted, the frequency and voltage dropping, and the 
inverter not transferring quick enough.

Basically I suggest to my customers having similar problems to:
A) First, wait for the charge rate to come down, then
B) shut down any other large loads, (ie wait for the water pump to 
finish pumping) then
C) manually switch the generator Breaker off,  which allows a cleaner, 
quicker transfer.


Some generators have a cool down period after being signaled to shut 
off, which solves the problem, too.  Having auto control just shut 
down the generator hard under load is always going to be rough. I 
wouldn't blame it all on Schneider, although it sounds like in your 
case the Conext is extending the low frequency time period, and making 
it even worse.
A relay might fix the problem too: first have the relay transfer the 
loads, and then send the signal to shut down the generator after.


Besides the firmware issue, I think you're noticing this problem more, 
because of all the new arc fault junk in the house.  IMHO, arc fault 
shouldn't even be required on off grid systems with less than 70 amps 
capacity.  Unless they've recently changed the UL testing, arc fault 
breakers need a min of 70 amp to even work properly.  Of course 
they're annoyingly easy to trip when the frequency and voltage get 
weird, so off grid all those arc fault breakers are Not going to trip 
when they should, but Will trip when they shouldn't.  More waste of 
time and money off grid. Again, just my opinion.

R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760
On 12/29/2016 12:27 PM, Lou Russo wrote:

Wrenches,

I recently installed a Schneider Conext SW 4024, Schnieder's DC 
Distribution panel, AC Distribution panel, SCP, and the AGS. It was 
to be a straightforward inverter swap, Xantrex 4024 to the Conext SW 
setup. The actual installation went fine. I did switch over the house 
wiring from 120 to 240  as well as the diesel genset.


After a steep learning curve with the client all seemed well. 1 week 
later she called and says the power behaves oddly as the generator is 
shutting down. Symptoms are some arc fault breakers trip and the 
compressor on her fridge sounds like its bogging down. I make the 45 
minute drive out and started my search. This is a site with 3 
buildings on 3 acres. I double checked all my wiring at the inverter, 
then moved onto the various buildings checking for redundant neutral 
to grounds, proper bonding, etc… Surprisingly although not great 
workmanship everything is where it is supposed to be. I decided to 
give the AC input on the inverter it's own dedicated neutral as at 
this point I was reaching for straws and the installation manual was 
unclear about this detail. Still nothing. A call to Schnieder 
confirmed that there was no setting I was missing.


I placed another call to Schnieder tech support. They did and have 
continued to answer the phone promptly. It did take a bit of chasing 
them but I finally got a answer that there Level 3 folks can 
reproduce the error. The inverter is following the frequency of the 
genset as it winds down down to 40hrtz. This is after the AC transfer 
inside the inverter has happened. During the cool down period 
everything is fine. This happens as the genset is actual shutting off 
and spinning down to a stop. They say this a firmware issue and that 
it will take months to push out as is needs to be UL listed. In the 
meantime I have a pissed off client, her oven went belly up on the 
low frequency voltage, there is concern about possible unseen damage 
to her new water pump, and I  wasted countless hours of my own time 
attempting to make the situation right. All of this due to a firmware 
that was released with a fata

Re: [RE-wrenches] Retrofit variable speed drive to old well pump?

2016-12-10 Thread Allan Sindelar

Dan,
I have never had to work with a two-wire pump, so I'm on shaky ground 
here, but I refer back to what I learned years ago from Windy. The third 
wire in a three-wire pump carries the starting surge from the capacitor. 
A two-wire pump lacks this, and thus gets its entire surge-under-load 
from the AC source. This will be intrinsically difficult for an 
inverter, as compared to grid. So Shasta's surge question below is 
relevant. I'd determine both instantaneous surge and voltage drop; it 
may be that the combination - of battery voltage leading to reduced AC 
from the Magnum, voltage drop on the wires, and simply using the Magnum 
- will keep it always problematic.


Years ago, when Dankoff Solar Products was in its prime as a 
distributor, Phil U did a load capacity test on various inverters of the 
time, including the Magnum MS4024. It had remarkably strong surge 
capacity, but did this by allowing a much greater voltage drop - down to 
around 80 VAC, if I recall, on a 120 VAC inverter.


You may be dealing with a structural issue, for which upgrading the pump 
may be the best solution.

Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 cell*

**

On 12/10/2016 11:06 AM, Shasta Daiku wrote:

Dan,
Have you measured start up current?

On Dec 10, 2016, at 9:39 AM, Drake 
<drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org 
<mailto:drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org>> wrote:


The usual wire I see running to most pumps is #10 UF cable. A 450 
foot run might create too much voltage drop. Maybe a buck boost 
transformer would help.


Drake

At 12:11 PM 12/10/2016, you wrote:
Hi Bob; I checked the connections for corrosion, and the wire size 
looks like "the usual" for up here in this area, it's only about 100 
feet and the usual well depth around here is 350 ft. Running stouter 
wire might be an option to consider...but that's a lot of digging. 
I'm just hoping VSD might be a quick and dirty solution.


Dan Fink
Adjunct Professor of Solar Energy Technology, Ecotech Institute
IREC Certified Instructorâ„¢ for:Â
~ PV Installation Professional
~ Small Wind Installer
Executive Director, Buckville Energy
NABCEP Registered Continuing Education Providers™
970.672.4342 

Â

On Sat, Dec 10, 2016 at 9:53 AM, RE Ellison <reelli...@gmail.com 
<mailto:reelli...@gmail.com>> wrote:


Don't know about the variable speed but are the wires feeding
the pump large enough for the distance?
Sounds like it might be voltage starved because of a high
resistance / bad connection or a long wire run and the need for
a larger wire ?

Just a thought,
Bob Ellison

On Dec 10, 2016, at 11:39 AM, Dan Fink <danbo...@gmail.com
<mailto:danbo...@gmail.com>> wrote:


Esteemed Wrenches;

I have a client in a very remote mountain location who is
having trouble with his inverter starting his well pump
when battery state of charge is below 75%. 24v system,
Magnum inverter.Â

It's a 2-wire pump, unknown age, model, horsepower, or well
depth. It has always given him trouble, that's why he
upgraded to 24v, and the situation is better, but not ideal
yet. I don't think adding a hard start capacitor would help
as there should be one inside the pump itself, though I
suppose it could be blown.

Because of the distance and the rough road, it would be
super expensive for a well company to come up there, pull
the old pump and set a new, modern soft-start one.

Has anyone here had any experience with retrofitting
variable speed drive units to an unknown pump? If so, what
models have you tried and what do you prefer?

Thanks;Â

Dan Fink
Adjunct Professor of Solar Energy Technology, Ecotech Institute
IREC Certified Instructor™ for:Â






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Re: [RE-wrenches] Fwd: RE: Grid neutral

2016-11-27 Thread Allan Sindelar

Mark and all,
Thank you for some very useful replies. You confirmed my understanding. 
You know how a customer can be so sure of (usually) himself...


Mark, I don't care that much about the structure of the utility. But 
it's this customer's understanding of utility structure that got me the 
consulting job for a system that would allow him to disconnect from it.

Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 cell*

**

On 11/26/2016 8:32 AM, Mark Frye wrote:


Allen,

Back when people used to read books to learn, at least you had to 
spend several hours studying something, then you could be 50% an 
expert. Now with the interwebs, watch only at least the first 20 
minutes of a YouTube video and you can have an unshakeable conviction 
in a new belief as truth.


If you are off grid, what do yo care about the structure of the 
utility anyway. None of use use "grid" power directly, but always 
through some form of power transformation.


Mark



On 11/25/2016 5:27 PM, Allan Sindelar wrote:

Wrenches,
Is there such a thing as a "grid neutral"? I have been providing 
design support to a client for a large off grid system; a prepper, 
rare in these parts. He claims that utility current is carried in 
part through the ground and in part through a neutral conductor, and 
such a "utility neutral" is deliberately undersized. At first I 
pushed back (see below). Now I just wonder what Wrenches more 
knowledgeable than I am will say.

Thank you,
Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
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[RE-wrenches] Fwd: RE: Grid neutral

2016-11-25 Thread Allan Sindelar

Wrenches,
Is there such a thing as a "grid neutral"? I have been providing design 
support to a client for a large off grid system; a prepper, rare in 
these parts. He claims that utility current is carried in part through 
the ground and in part through a neutral conductor, and such a "utility 
neutral" is deliberately undersized. At first I pushed back (see below). 
Now I just wonder what Wrenches more knowledgeable than I am will say.

Thank you,
Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
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**

 Forwarded Message 
Date:   Thu, 24 Nov 2016 11:25:36 -0700


Allan

Happy thanksgiving. Sorry for the slow reply; overwhelmed here.

All wet sorry. If you look at the power lines you will see two or three 
wires at top of pole and the one smaller one a little ways down the 
pole. This is the power station neutral.


The hots bidirectional is an explanation that helps people understand 
current but is not totally clear.


Even if you use that visualization in order for the electrons on the hot 
to oscillate they heed a path to oscillate into and out of


That is the “neutral”.

Bottom line is from the power station and in your home you have at least 
one hot and one neutral.


You can actually use the hot to light up a lite bulb by connecting the 
other side of the lite bulb to the earth.


This one way you can get electrocuted.

I touched the hot side of a 220 circuit and the current went thru me and 
into the earth…not much fun.


This has been openly publicly discussed and one of the electrical 
association advised the power companies to increase the size of the 
neutral to solve many issues, such as cows giving less milk and problems 
with electric current in homes. The power companies even openly discuss 
this.


In *remote rural areas* of Australia, I have seen electricity 
distribution using SWER (Single-Wire Earth Return); just one wire is fed 
to the property at a high voltage, with the current returning via the 
ground.  At the property, a transformer turns the high voltage into 
normal residential voltages on a pair of wires (230VAC in Australia vs 
2x115V in some other countries). But this SWER system is inefficient, 
and the supply voltage is poorly regulated; it is a rare exception - it 
is only done because of the high cost of delivering two wires in remote 
areas.


In *metropolitan areas*, you will typically see 4 wires passing down the 
street. This consists of three phases of "Active", plus a "Neutral". You 
could /imagine/ the Active carrying current "from" the power grid, and 
the Neutral carrying the current "back to" the power grid (even though 
the current flow is symmetrical).


There is lots of info online if you wish to learn more about this.

Take care, Robert

*From:*Allan Sindelar [mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com]
*Sent:* Sunday, October 23, 2016 10:18 PM

Robert,
I'm neither an electrical engineer or a utility employee, so I may be 
all wet here, and if so please dry me off with a straight-up 
explanation. But this whole argument seems specious to me, as it 
addresses a "grid neutral".


My reasoning is this - there is no such animal as a "grid neutral" in 
utility lines, so how is this issue even relevant? The "hots" are 
bidirectional; only when the utility power is stepped down at the 
transformer at the home is a reference neutral created. To say that the 
current "cannot all go back thru the neutral since it is not large 
enough BY DESIGN" seems to me an absurd concept since there is no 
neutral in utility power distribution.


Am I missing something?
Allan

On 10/2/2016 7:51 PM, Robert wrote:

   Allan

   Here is the info I said I would send:
   _https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJOB2FIqUiQ_. Listen about 20
   minutes at least.

   All current that goes “out” on the two residential or three
   commercial hots goes back on the grid neutral

   AND thru the ground'. It cannot all go back thru the neutral since
   it is not large enough  BY DESIGN. So…. That means we really don’t
   have a clean ground anymore.

   Thank you for your time today. It is enjoyable to speak with you.

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[RE-wrenches] Versatile remote monitoring component

2016-11-22 Thread Allan Sindelar

Wrenches,
I support the PV for several Access Point sites for a local wireless 
internet provider, a nonprofit that serves rural and remote areas around 
Santa Fe. Through working with them I learned of a product that others 
here may find useful at remote sites. It's a Web Based Remote Monitor 
and Control System.


Info is at 
https://www.streakwave.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=TPDINMONITORWEB===0. 
From the web page: The PowerSENS is a versatile tool which enables the 
equipment designer and installer to remotely monitor his equipment and 
site. The unit can be accessed via the network (web and SNMP) to 
remotely monitor up to 4 voltages (up to 80V DC), 4 currents (up to 
16A), 2 temperatures and control power to various equipment using 4 
on-board relays. The system has built-in surge protection to prevent 
damage from electrical surges.


Runs on 12-48V DC.
Allan
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Ring Connectors

2016-11-14 Thread Allan Sindelar

Will,
1/4" ring by whatever size wire you choose. Del City is a good source - 
www.delcity.net. #153145 is 1/4"/#10AWG; #254145 is same for #8 and 
#255145 for #6.
Standard indent crimper for non-insulated terminals, not the automotive 
type. Mine is a Klein.

Allan

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**

On 11/14/2016 10:34 AM, Will White wrote:

Hey Wrenches,

I'm doing an upgrade to an Outback VFX series off-grid system with the 
flexware boxes.  What type/brand of ring connectors and crimpers do 
you all use for the DC breakers with the post terminals?


Thanks,
Will


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Conduit in a slab

2016-10-30 Thread Allan Sindelar

Adam,
Over time earth can be corrosive to metal, which is why good practice 
here is to use PVC below grade and transition to EMT once the conduit is 
exposed above grade. I suspect that concrete would have similar effects. 
In New Mexico, state Code requires Schedule 80 if PVC is used above 
grade, I suspect primarily because of the intensity of our 
high-elevation sun, so by that logic you'd use a Sch. 80 90 sweep to 
exit the slab, then transition.

Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
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New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 cell*

**

On 10/29/2016 6:50 PM, AE Solar wrote:

Wrenches,
I have a project where the DC run is going through the wall system of 
the house, down through the slab, out the building underground and 
into another building. My preference would be to run PVC in the slab 
and then stub out of it with a metal 90.
I'm unclear if that is allowed. Is conduit in the slab considered to 
be inside the house and therefore should be metal? Thanks for any 
thoughts.

Adam


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Trace T220

2016-10-25 Thread Allan Sindelar

Ron,
Shooting from memory here... the T220 was rated at 2800 watts max, as 
compared to the later T240, which is rated at 3900 watts continuous. At 
240 VAC 2800W is just a bit over 10A. Given that use as a balancing 
autotransformer for a generator is continuous duty, this capacity rating 
is most likely due to how much heat it can tolerate. Given this the 15A 
fusing seems quite appropriate and I wouldn't change it.

Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
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Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 cell*

**

On 10/25/2016 5:53 PM, RM You wrote:

Hi Wrenches, looking for help from someone who remembers the old T220 
Autotransformer from Trace. I have a used one and it came with built in 15a 
fuses which seem small. I’m wondering if the size of the transformer actually 
changed with the T240 subsequent version or if the 25a breakers in the T240 
were just considered a more acceptable design component for the time. Bottom 
line is would it be advisable to change out the built in 15a for a higher 
rating to use this as a balancing transformer on 240v output from a generator.

Ron
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[RE-wrenches] Array/battery relationship (WAS Battery Watt hours FLA VS Iron Edison Batteries)

2016-10-14 Thread Allan Sindelar

Dana (and I'm curious if others agree),
I used to work with 4-5 days of storage, back with modules were 
expensive and batteries were relatively cheap. As in recent years these 
two have reversed - modules are cheap and batteries are dear - my 
fundamental design approach has changed. I now design around 2-3 days of 
storage with a larger array, as long as there's a backup generator in 
the system. I size to at least 100% of the projected winter average 
daily load.


The batteries recharge more quickly, including on partly cloudy days 
between storms. They spend more of their time full, thus keeping them 
happier and giving them as much or more life, even with more and deeper 
cycling. FLAs are easier to EQ, given the hotter charge rate. And the 
customer spends less.


You used to live in SW Colorado, a similar sunny winter climate. Is it 
the same in Idaho where you live now?

Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 cell*

**

On 10/14/2016 3:36 PM, Dana wrote:


I recommend 4 days backup min & 5 days backup if budget allows of 
storage and Iron Edison were saying that 2 days was sufficient. To 
clarify - I said “magical” as in wondering if there was something 
special, I-E did not say this.


__

Dana Orzel

Great Solar Works, Inc - NABCEP # 051112-136**

d...@solarwork.com <mailto:d...@solarwork.com> - www.solarwork.biz 
<http://www.solarwork.com>


*O*- 970.626.5253 *F* - 970.626.4140   c *- *208.721.7003**

*_"Responsible Technologies for Responsible People since 1988_**_" _*

*From:*RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] 
*On Behalf Of *Dan Fink

*Sent:* Friday, October 14, 2016 12:04 PM
*To:* RE-wrenches
*Subject:* Re: [RE-wrenches] Battery Watt hours FLA VS Iron Edison 
Batteries


Tom; I have never seen Iron Edison saying NiFe is "magical" -- do you 
have a specific webpage on their site that says this?


All batteries have advantages and disadvantages, and also myriad 
technical issues for the installer to overcome.



Dan Fink

Adjunct Professor of Solar Energy Technology, Ecotech Institute

IREC Certified Instructor™ for:

~ PV Installation Professional

~ Small Wind Installer

Executive Director, Buckville Energy

NABCEP Registered Continuing Education Providers™
970.672.4342 


On Fri, Oct 14, 2016 at 10:14 AM, Tom Duffy <t...@solar-biz.com 
<mailto:t...@solar-biz.com>> wrote:


Hi Dana

Two thoughts… how many days of autonomy are they quoting?

If nickel Iron were this magical how come nobody has noticed them for 
the past 100 years?


Kind regards

*Tom Duffy*

*Senior Solar Design Engineer*

Solar-Biz-new-logo-800X300

*E-Mail: **t...@solar-biz.com <mailto:t...@solar-biz.com>*

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*From:* RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org 
<mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org>] *On Behalf Of *Dana

*Sent:* Friday, October 14, 2016 8:56 AM
*To:* 'RE-wrenches' <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org 
<mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org>>

*Subject:* [RE-wrenches] Battery Watt hours FLA VS Iron Edison Batteries

Good Morning All,

I have a charity case client that needs 760 to 900 AHR at 24 VDC. I 
have installed HUP Solar One Batteries for 20+ years and do not have 
any experience with the Iron Edison battery. My client went to Iron 
Edison & was told that 360 AHR at 24 VDC would cover the same AHR as a 
760 to 900 AHR in FLA.  I understand you can use the IE deeper 
typically than a FLA.


Math is math to me & how I have sized [successfully for years] Is 
there something I am missing or has my client been misinformed?


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Re: [RE-wrenches] PV Recombiner

2016-10-10 Thread Allan Sindelar

Jerry,
I don't think that QOs or QOUs would work. I believe that all are rated 
only to 50V DC, unless that longtime dual rating has recently changed. 
As the Radian is only available in 48V, any DC conductors would exceed 
this.

Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 cell*

**

On 10/10/2016 8:40 PM, Jerry Shafer wrote:


You might want to look at the square D QO breaker line some are dc 
rated and voltage rated and are panel mounted.

Jerry


On Oct 10, 2016 3:00 PM, "jay" <jay.pe...@gmail.com 
<mailto:jay.pe...@gmail.com>> wrote:


I”ll chime in here.

Yes the GSLC is a piece of junk.
However it is UL listed for the job. And while you could put
together something that would work with Airpax breakers together,
but it wouldn’t be UL.

What I do is to swap out all the wires to Arctic ultra flex.  This
allows much better movement of the wires with significantly less
stress on the terminals. And if you want to not attach wires to
the back of the breakers then you can and I’ve seen outback do it,
install lay in lugs facing outwards so you can use a screwdriver
or allen key on them.  Allows for installation and removal of wire
without removal of the breaker or the plate/breakers.  With
thimbles of course. And I can’t find them but I know they make
them, shields that fit between each breaker so the lay in lugs are
insulated.

jay
peltz power



On Oct 10, 2016, at 4:40 PM, William Miller
<will...@millersolar.com <mailto:will...@millersolar.com>> wrote:

Chris:

Thank you for the reply.  I think you misunderstand me.  We
always use the GSLC cabinets.  I just don’t like the design
concept that clutters the cabinet with AC and DC breakers that
are difficult to access and block other components.  See photo
below of a prewired GSLC Cabinet we were asked to work in.  Not a
good scenario.

We have created an installation standard using the GSLC that
minimizes the problems inherent with the design.  We run all AC
leads to adjacent load centers and we try to minimize the DC
breakers in the cabinet.  It is our goal to completely eliminate
all breakers from the removable dead-front.  I think it is pretty
self-explanatory why one would not prefer to make connections in
a hard to reach location.

Our goal is to constantly improve our installation procedures to
create better, safer and more efficient installations.

Also, I don’t need someone to instruct me on how to make a
“finished” looking install. If you are familiar with my work you
know it is as clean as it gets.  Review my web site. Below is but
one example of one of our installs.

And lastly, “suck it up” is not a very complimentary phrase. 
Please, let’s keep it professional.


Sincerely,

William Miller



Figure 1 Factory wired GSLC



Figure 2 Miller Solar installed GSLC..


Lic 773985
millersolar.com <http://www.millersolar.com/>
805-438-5600 

*From:*RE-wrenches
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
<mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org>]*On Behalf
Of*Chris Mason
*Sent:*Monday, October 10, 2016 3:40 PM
*To:*RE-wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
<mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org>>
*Subject:*Re: [RE-wrenches] PV Recombiner

The GSLC gives the system a nice finished appearance that the
customer will understand. Suck it up and live with the imperfect
world we function in.

On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 5:55 PM, William Miller
<will...@millersolar.com <mailto:will...@millersolar.com>> wrote:

Friends:

I am looking for a PV recombiner.  I need to accept the outputs
from 3 remote PV Combiners, send those outputs through GFP
circuit breakers, into charge controllers, back thorough
breaker, into a bus bar, through a main breaker and onto a large
battery bank.

I am using 2 Outback Radian inverters, but I refuse to install
DC breakers on their dead-front because wiring to studs facing
away from the front is an inferior design.  Furthermore, I see
no need to run PV circuits through the GSLC cabinets.

I looked at the Midnite MNDC15 but again, these use panel
mounted breakers with studs on the back.

Anyone know of a more thoughtfully designed PV recombiner?

Thanks in advance,

William Miller


Lic 773985
millersolar.com <http://www.millersolar.com/>
805-438-5600 


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Real info for voltage

2016-09-25 Thread Allan Sindelar

Bill,
A true RMS meter shouldn't be necessary with a gennie in most cases, as 
the gennie is a rotating source, so the waveform is naturally true sine, 
or close. The true-RMS meter is more important with mod-square 
inverters, as cheap DMMs estimate RMS voltage as a proportion to peak 
voltage, and a mod-square inverter won't create the 164V waveform peak 
voltage necessary to read 117V by direct conversion.


There's an exception here, though, that may be in play. What's your 
elevation? Drawing off of one AC output leg on that Onan will give you 
at most 2000 watts, and that's reduced by (rule of thumb here) 3.5% per 
1000 feet above sea level. So if you're pulling 1.7 KW on that leg, 
whether or not the other house is also drawing, you may be overloading 
the Onan enough to pull down the voltage waveform peak voltage.


First, yes, try measuring with a true-RMS meter, as a 
process-of-elimination troubleshooting initial step. Then try reducing 
the VFX3648's input current and observing how the voltage changes. 
Third, add a PSX240 or equivalent to allow both gennie legs to feed the 
inverter.


I haven't run voltage drop calcs in making these recommendations, but I 
don't think that the #10 wire is the source of the troubles.

Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 cell*

**

On 9/25/2016 11:03 PM, frenergy wrote:

  Wrenches,
 I have a customer that is reading voltage with a non-RMS 
meter in the following scenario:  4000 watt Onan RV generator (older) 
at ~5500 foot elevation...its output is connected to the "AC in leg 1" 
of an OB VFX3648 using (customer installed, I came on this job 
after-the-fact) 10 gauge running about 75'.  Genny fires up, feeds AC 
IN in VFX, sends about 1.7 KW to the batts, while also running 
moderate loads in house /another/ 75' away, again through 10 gauge.


 She is complaining about the voltage reading ~95 volts at 
times in the house.  Voltage at genny is still around 120 (I am told) 
I suggest up sizing wire to 6 gauge, which they do but voltage is 
still in the 105 V range in the house, same scenario. As the batts 
come up to charge and input tapers, voltage also comes up some.  
Shouldn't the voltages be read with an RMS type meter to be accurate?  
She thinks the inverter is not working right though I've tried to 
explain to her that in standby the inverter is not inverting, its just 
passing genny power through, unchanged other than the load its pulling 
to charge the batts.


Other insights to voltage drop in this case other than an 
RMS meter?  Does it matter if the last loads are seeing just 105 volts?


Thanks,
Bill

--
Feather River Solar Electric
Bill Battagin, Owner
4291 Nelson St.
Taylorsville, CA 95983
530.284.7849
CA Lic 874049
www.frenergy.net


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Issue with DR1512 and oven

2016-09-20 Thread Allan Sindelar

Drake,
As far as I know these were never made available outside of Trace/Xantrex.
Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
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On 9/20/2016 9:31 AM, Drake wrote:
We are looking for a schematic for the DR series inverter. Does anyone 
have one they could send me?


Thank you,

Drake

Drake Chamberlin
/Athens Electric LLC
OH License 44810
CO License 3773
NABCEP Certified Solar PV
740-448-7328
/http://athens-electric.com/


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Issue with DR1512 and oven

2016-09-19 Thread Allan Sindelar

Kristopher,
Ray's advice is sound, and I'll add: that 14 year old inverter is likely 
to last forever, and that's not a reason to keep using it. It's almost 
certainly the crude waveform that's causing the issues.
If range replacement remains the only option, talk with Peerless-Premier 
(www.premierrange.com). As of my last contact with them a few years ago, 
they still make unadvertised models with circuit boards that were 
designed for original Trace mod-square inverters and have no glow bars 
for the oven. Our family home has a decent Pro series (stainless front 
with sealed burners) with electric igniters and no glow bar.

Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
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On 9/19/2016 4:46 PM, Kristopher Schmid wrote:

Thanks Ray,

This is a circa 2002 inverter.  I may just tell them to go to a pilot 
light stove model (hate to waste gas, ya know).


Kris

On Mon, Sep 19, 2016 at 5:39 PM, Ray Walters <r...@solarray.com 
<mailto:r...@solarray.com>> wrote:


Sounds like ovens have gotten more complicated over the years.  As
soon as I read "control board" and modified sine wave, I cringe.
The good old DR inverters worked great, I even ran my own shop on
one for several years back in the 90s.  I for the most part quit
selling them though, as even though most equipment worked on the
mod sine, we started noticing premature failures.  I would
attribute this to the extra heat generated by all the extra
harmonic distortion. Sorry I can't recommend an oven; they
probably would be better going to something older form Craig's
list with no AC connection at all.

R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760 <tel:303%20505-8760>

On 9/19/2016 4:35 PM, Kristopher Schmid wrote:

Hi Wrenches,

I have a client that has blown out 2 control boards on their oven
in the last few months.  The appliance is a Whirlpool Model
WFG515S0EW0 powered by a Xantrex DR1512.  Since this is an
off-grid home, i recommended that they get an LP stove with no
oven glow bar and this was the unit that the appliance company
supplied.

Has anyone seen this before (i am assuming incompatibility of the
circuitry with the modified sine wave output)?

Can you recommend another model that has been tried and true
(preferably Whirlpool)?

Thanks tons,
Kris

-- 
Shine On!


Kris Schmid
Legacy Solar, LLC
864 Clam Falls Trail
Frederic, WI 54837
www.legacysolar.com <http://www.legacysolar.com>
715-653-4295 
NABCEP Certified PV Installer
Licensed Wisconsin Master Electrician
BSEE


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Re: [RE-wrenches] FW: RE: home trackers

2016-09-19 Thread Allan Sindelar
Well, it wasn't a rumor... I was given this information as well by 
Michael. My post was about support and parts for existing residential 
trackers. I spoke this morning with Kyle Greulich: replacement 
controllers are available through them. It's now a plc-based unit with 
its own sensor, and uses a 24V DC supply. The set is expensive; I won't 
say the dealer price on this forum, but the retail (if someone sought a 
set for their own non-Wattsun use, for example) is $999.


Access is still through www.arraytechinc.com; select residential from 
the menu. There will be a www.wattsun.com website yet to come.

Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
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*505 780-2738 cell*

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On 9/19/2016 9:16 AM, toddc...@finestplanet.com wrote:


wrenches,

i did some follow-up with array technology regarding the sales and 
service of home scale trackers. the good news is these services are 
still available (see the forwarded message below).


todd

mount shasta energy services





On Monday, September 19, 2016 7:16am, "Michael Reed" 
<mr...@arraytechinc.com> said:


Todd,

Please dispel this rumor in the Wrenches Group if it exists there.

Array Tech took on some Utility Scale investors so we could expend 
into International Markets.We’ve done over 6 GW in the Utility Arena.


Ron spun off Residential and created Wattsun Solar Trackers LLC and it 
is now based in Ron’s “stomping grounds” in NJ.   He brought in a 
lifelong friend  - Jeff Gruelich – and his son Kyle to reinvigorate 
Wattsun.


I’m now in the Utility Group and doing a lot of quote coordination.

Contact info for Wattsun:

Greulich



Jeff





973-476-1256





jgreul...@arraytechinc.com

Greulich



Kyle





973-647-7751





kgreul...@arraytechinc.com

Take care!

Michael




Sent from Finest Planet WebMail.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Odd monitor readout Trace 4024

2016-09-15 Thread Allan Sindelar
Long shot, Ron, but did you shut down the DC supply? That requires 
reprogramming the unit, but is a "harder" reboot. 
Allan

> On Sep 15, 2016, at 5:11 PM, RM You  wrote:
> 
> Has anyone seen this kind of readout on a Trace 4024 inverter. Unit is 
> functioning but access to the menu is unavailable and I’m wondering if it’s a 
> monitor failure or something else. I did a factory reset but got the same 
> thing.
> 
> 
> 
> Ron Young
> 
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[RE-wrenches] Tracker controller service?

2016-08-31 Thread Allan Sindelar

Wrenches,
Array Technologies can no longer support their legacy controllers for 
their Wattsun residential trackers. Some internal parts are no longer 
available, and of course their business has expanded far beyond small 
individual units.
Does anyone know of either an easy replacement or an electronics service 
technician who repairs them? Michael, with whom I have worked and gotten 
great support for years, had no suggestions.
There are plenty of inexpensive Chinese controllers designed to work 
with linear actuators on Ebay. Has anyone tried one on a Wattsun tracker?

Thank you,
Allan
--

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Re: [RE-wrenches] [Following up on] Low array voltage stumper on legacy system

2016-08-29 Thread Allan Sindelar

Wrenches,
What a delight it is when a client is so fully able to understand and 
follow directions! Albert, the homeowner of the 1997 system with 16 BP 
75W modules on a tracker, sent the results below. In short, he isolated 
each string and measured input and output voltage and current as shown 
by the display on the MX60.


The results suggest that while two of the four strings are worse than 
the other two, all are severely degraded, and none put out close to 
original MPP voltage or current.


Given that the tracker has recently stopped operating (due to an 
obviously failed internal electronic component, most likely from 
lightning damage) and replacement controllers are no longer available, 
SunXtenders that have reached the end of their life after nine years of 
operation, and these modules, I'm not recommending rebuilding this 
system with new batteries and modules. I have suggested a batteryless 
grid-tied system, and either keeping this as a modest backup resource 
for occasional outages (with new batteries, of course) or using a home 
standby generator to meet backup needs.


And both the client and I would be interested in any observations and 
further conclusions that can be taken from the numbers below and in the 
attached spreadsheet. It appears that string three pulls down the 
overall output beyond what it contributes. We have one spare module, if 
the client chooses to keep the existing array in operation. The other 
three strings put out between 50% and 61% of original nameplate current 
rating. All have decidedly low Vmp, which at STC would be around 68V.


Thank you,
Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
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New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 cell*

**


 Forwarded Message 
Date:   Sun, 28 Aug 2016 09:11:31 -0600


Allan,
I completed the test yesterday during late morning sun.  Results are 
shown in the attached spreadsheet.  It appears that both strings 3 and 4 
gave lower Vmp, although 3 was worse.

Albert

PV Array Output 



Observation date:   8/27/16 


Observation time:   11:10 - 11:45   

Values displayed on MX-60 charge controller @ MPPT  







String* Input   Output

V   A   W   V   A






1   52  3.7 184 26  7.1
2   46  3.4 153 26  6
3   38  3.3 122 26.24.7
4   37  4.2 152 26.25.9






1+2+3+4 41  16  610 26.223.3
1+2+4   47  12.3544 26.220.9






*selected using breakers on combiner box at array   




Hi Allan,
I would try turning off string #3 and see what happens to the Vmp.
I'm guessing it'll go up to a more normal voltage.
Replacement is my thought.
Jay
Peltz power.


On Aug 25, 2016, at 7:04 AM, Allan Sindelar <al...@sindelarsolar.com 
<mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>> wrote:


Wrenches,
Here's one I haven't seen before. 1997 grid-tie battery backup system 
that was one of my first, although actual installation was by another 
before I was licensed. 16 BP 275, 36-cell 12V modules, the standard of 
that time. Early Outback MX60 replaced C40 around 2005; array rewired to 
four 48V strings of four modules at that time, serving a 24V battery 
bank. Tested with an end-of-life 9-year-old AGM battery bank in the 
system, but in Sell mode with a 26.4V Sell voltage setpoint.


At 11 am, 68ºF, 900W/m^2 on the Daystar, with the array under charge, I 
measured 3.5A, 3.4A, 2.4A, and 3.6A. Short-circuiting each string, I 
measured 4.0A, 3.7A, 3.8A, and 3.7A. Original rating was 4.45A, so 
except for the third string, current is what I'd reasonably expect from 
20-year-old module degradation. However, watching the periodic MPPT 
sweep from the MX60 at the array, the maximum power point voltage for 
the entire 48V array settled at 14.6A at 37.2V, or about 540 watts from 
a 1,200W (originally rated) array.


I have commonly seen the current reduce substantially with age-related 
degradation, while the MPP voltage remains fairly close to original. I 
have never seen the voltage drop this far - an average of 9.3V MPP per 
each 12V module. All of the cells are seriously browned. I have other 
systems out there with the same modules of similar age that don't 
exhibit this weird behavior. Can anyone help me understand why the MPP 
voltage would drop so far below what is typical?


There is a slight possibility of corroded buried input conductors, 
because of a serious but corrected issue of galvanic corrosion from a 
ground fault (a Romex connector pi

Re: [RE-wrenches] NRTL certification question

2016-08-26 Thread Allan Sindelar
Jerry, it is for off grid, but that's not synonymous with non permitted. 
This is a house being built with standard permits. Unlisted modules are 
only appropriate for "unpermitted owner-built homes too remote to be 
discovered by the AHJs". It's a specific category of its own.


We have determined that the specific TUV label on these modules isn't 
valid in the US. Buyer beware! $.60/watt!

Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 cell*

**

On 8/26/2016 1:11 PM, Jerry Shafer wrote:


Wrenches
No UL or ETL they sould like for off grid non permitted non warranty 
systems, years ago they used to be called "red label"

Jerry




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[RE-wrenches] NRTL certification question

2016-08-26 Thread Allan Sindelar

Wrenches,
And now for something completely different... are TUV Rheinland or CE 
module certifications valid yet in the US?


I was called to consult for an off grid client who had purchased 40 250W 
generic Chinese modules through a friend who got them on Ebay... yeah, 
right. I got to be the one to tell him that I didn't think his $6,000 
purchase ($.60/watt) could be used in a permitted/inspected system, as 
the modules lacked the proper NRTL certification on the label. I sure 
hope for his sake that I'm wrong, and I said I would ask here.


These are Qunsheng New Energy, model QS-250P. No UL, ETL, CSA 
certification, just the ones above plus ISO.


Where can one find a list of NRTLs?

Thank you,
Allan
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Low array voltage stumper on legacy system

2016-08-26 Thread Allan Sindelar

Mike,
Jay's suggestion to turn off string three, the low one, is good. Plus I 
can guide the homeowner by phone, thus avoiding the cost of another site 
visit, so that adds appeal.


I just spoke with him. While he lacks the DMM and DC amp clamp, he is 
going to record V and I in and out for each string, using the MX60 
display as his data source. I'll post any noteworthy results here. We're 
in monsoon season (afternoon cloud buildup and thunderstorms) so it may 
not be for a few days.


Re Jerry's comments: I think that you mean an I/V curve tracer test, 
rather than Solmetric, right? That's not a tool I have or will get for 
my current work, but it's a good idea, thanks. The client and I are 
pretty much in agreement that we're dealing with serious browning - 
indeed, more than I have ever seen with BP 75W modules of this vintage 
(my own home's 18 BP590 modules of similar age show very little browning 
and about 15% degradation, rather than 50%) and aren't worth the cost of 
a whole bunch of testing. Mostly, we're looking for any specific and 
correctable cause, as we have one spare matching module in storage, and 
I also simply posted to seek answers as to why the Vmp was so low.


Jerry, it was selling, so the voltage would be held around the sell 
level of 26.4V. The inverter is set to the default sell AC amps, 35A as 
I recall and the MX60 is defaulted to 60A output, so they aren't causing 
any restrictions. The batteries are known to be used up - indeed, we 
want to better understand the array issue in order to help determine 
whether to replace the SunXtender AGMs for backup power or just leave 
the system in a state of benign neglect. The client is considering our 
suggestion to install a separate grid-tied batteryless system once he 
has lived in the home for a year or so to determine consumption. This 
legacy system would pretty much just be backup, as with hardware that 
old a new array as well as batteries is hard to justify.


Thank you to all. More to come later if we learn anything worth sharing.
Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 cell*

**

On 8/26/2016 10:14 AM, Mike Kocsmiersky wrote:


Your measurements of the Isc for the four stings seems to be odd in 
string 3 with only 2.4A.  However, when you measure the circuit under 
load, you are getting 14.6A from all 4 strings, which averages 3.65A.  
I’d say check that string again, perhaps the current clamp wasn’t 
zeroed or something.


First I would try reading the MPPT voltage and current for each string 
individually connected to the load.  If one of the strings had a bad 
diode, I’m not sure it would show up in a Voc test.  Perhaps a bad 
bypass diode could give the MPPT algorithm a difficult time finding 
the MPPT of the array, and it gets stuck on curve of the one string 
that has a bad diode.


Also, it could be more of an issue with the MPPT controller thinking 
the array is a 24V Array, or some other controller failure.  I would 
look there.


Mike Kocsmiersky

Principal

Phone: 413 883-3144

*Spirit Solar*


Can you do a solmetric type test, when you performed the amp test the 
volts were at near "0" so the test does not show an accurate value, you 
said the modules are brown this is not good but are they checked because 
if so you are done needs new modules. I would suggest doing some 
additional testing, is it selling, and at what amount, whats going into 
or out of the batteries at that time, what inverter is it, trace 24 I 
would assume, if it is selling is the inverter capable of selling more 
than it is or is at the limit, I need more numbers to get a better 
understanding if there is even a problem. You can adjust "Sell" down to 
perform a test and see if the DC climbs, also you can set the MX amp 
down too.

Jerry
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Low array voltage stumper on legacy system

2016-08-26 Thread Allan Sindelar

Steve,
Yes, in the same sequence: 75.5V, 73.8V, 73.9V, 74.0V. All just about 
what I'd expect.


Brian,
I have seen that with KC120s over the years - good Voc and Isc but no 
MPP. That's a known failure that Kyocera (to their credit) continues to 
warrant 15 years out. But I haven't seen it with the many 75W BPs we 
installed in that same time period. So it's possible, but unlikely, 
especially with all four strings behaving in a similar manner.
Thank you. I'm off on field work now, will respond to any more replies 
tomorrow.


Allan

On 8/25/2016 8:24 AM, Steve Bell wrote:

Hello Allan,

Did you check the Voc of each string?  Is it possible that there could 
one or more shorted bypass diodes in the modules?


Just a thought.

Steve Bell
Morningstar tech support

On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 8:04 AM, Allan Sindelar 
<al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>> wrote:


Wrenches,
Here's one I haven't seen before. 1997 grid-tie battery backup
system that was one of my first, although actual installation was
by another before I was licensed. 16 BP 275, 36-cell 12V modules,
the standard of that time. Early Outback MX60 replaced C40 around
2005; array rewired to four 48V strings of four modules at that
time, serving a 24V battery bank. Tested with an end-of-life
9-year-old AGM battery bank in the system, but in Sell mode with a
26.4V Sell voltage setpoint.

At 11 am, 68ºF, 900W/m^2 on the Daystar, with the array under
charge, I measured 3.5A, 3.4A, 2.4A, and 3.6A. Short-circuiting
each string, I measured 4.0A, 3.7A, 3.8A, and 3.7A. Original
rating was 4.45A, so except for the third string, current is what
I'd reasonably expect from 20-year-old module degradation.
However, watching the periodic MPPT sweep from the MX60 at the
array, the maximum power point voltage for the entire 48V array
settled at 14.6A at 37.2V, or about 540 watts from a 1,200W
(originally rated) array.

I have commonly seen the current reduce substantially with
age-related degradation, while the MPP voltage remains fairly
close to original. I have never seen the voltage drop this far -
an average of 9.3V MPP per each 12V module. All of the cells are
seriously browned. I have other systems out there with the same
modules of similar age that don't exhibit this weird behavior. Can
anyone help me understand why the MPP voltage would drop so far
below what is typical?

There is a slight possibility of corroded buried input conductors,
because of a serious but corrected issue of galvanic corrosion
from a ground fault (a Romex connector pinching a conductor and
allowing seepage to ground). This was corrected years ago, but the
input conductors were direct burial for ~100' and there was never
a bonding conductor between the array and the house, so there is a
potential for corrosion damage. However, the voltage measured at
both ends while charging was identical, so I think that would
indicate that high conductor resistance isn't the issue.

As usual, thank you for the collective and individual wisdom
shared here.
Allan
    -- 


*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 <tel:505%20780-2738> cell*


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Ch

[RE-wrenches] Low array voltage stumper on legacy system

2016-08-25 Thread Allan Sindelar

Wrenches,
Here's one I haven't seen before. 1997 grid-tie battery backup system 
that was one of my first, although actual installation was by another 
before I was licensed. 16 BP 275, 36-cell 12V modules, the standard of 
that time. Early Outback MX60 replaced C40 around 2005; array rewired to 
four 48V strings of four modules at that time, serving a 24V battery 
bank. Tested with an end-of-life 9-year-old AGM battery bank in the 
system, but in Sell mode with a 26.4V Sell voltage setpoint.


At 11 am, 68ºF, 900W/m^2 on the Daystar, with the array under charge, I 
measured 3.5A, 3.4A, 2.4A, and 3.6A. Short-circuiting each string, I 
measured 4.0A, 3.7A, 3.8A, and 3.7A. Original rating was 4.45A, so 
except for the third string, current is what I'd reasonably expect from 
20-year-old module degradation. However, watching the periodic MPPT 
sweep from the MX60 at the array, the maximum power point voltage for 
the entire 48V array settled at 14.6A at 37.2V, or about 540 watts from 
a 1,200W (originally rated) array.


I have commonly seen the current reduce substantially with age-related 
degradation, while the MPP voltage remains fairly close to original. I 
have never seen the voltage drop this far - an average of 9.3V MPP per 
each 12V module. All of the cells are seriously browned. I have other 
systems out there with the same modules of similar age that don't 
exhibit this weird behavior. Can anyone help me understand why the MPP 
voltage would drop so far below what is typical?


There is a slight possibility of corroded buried input conductors, 
because of a serious but corrected issue of galvanic corrosion from a 
ground fault (a Romex connector pinching a conductor and allowing 
seepage to ground). This was corrected years ago, but the input 
conductors were direct burial for ~100' and there was never a bonding 
conductor between the array and the house, so there is a potential for 
corrosion damage. However, the voltage measured at both ends while 
charging was identical, so I think that would indicate that high 
conductor resistance isn't the issue.


As usual, thank you for the collective and individual wisdom shared here.
Allan
--

*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 cell*

**

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Legacy SW175

2016-08-11 Thread Allan Sindelar

Bruce,
If you don't find a match, Backwoods Solar has made an effort to locate 
and offer 72-cell 125mm-cell modules, primarily to serve off grid 
installers and client who need to match existing arrays with 36-cell and 
72-cell modules. These are in the familiar ~32" by 62" dimension 
profile. The Topoint 190s they currently offer may come close to a fit 
match.

Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 cell*

**

On 8/10/2016 12:37 PM, br...@willpowerelect.com wrote:

Hello All,

Does anyone have a Solarworld SW175 they would part with? Customer has 
broken glass in mid array making odd size substitution challenging, 
not to mention electrical characteristics on a string inverter...


Thanks!

Bruce Fiero-RMI

*Willpower Electric, LLC*
*4115 S Pacific Hwy*
*Medford, OR 97501*
*
*
*Phone: *541-535-3965
*Fax:*541-512-0061
*Email:*br...@willpowerelect.com <mailto:br...@willpowerelect.com>
*Web:*Willpower Electric, LLC 
<http://www.willpower-electric.com%3Cbr%20/%3E>



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Re: [RE-wrenches] Off grid

2016-07-28 Thread Allan Sindelar

Bill,
I concur with Jay. Some of the older top loaders, especially Maytag, 
were known as problem loads in the early days. In the 80s Windy Dankoff 
developed a kit to run the controls off of mod-square inverter AC but 
adapt a DC motor to spin the agitator and tub. Inverters of that time 
couldn't handle the surge. I would not expect any 
high-frequency-switcher inverter like the Samlex to handle an older 
toploader. A better modern washer makes more sense than an oversized 
transformer-based inverter for that one load.

Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 cell*

**

On 7/28/2016 11:43 AM, Jay wrote:

Spend $600 and get a front loader.
I just checked mine
150 watt max watt load
.11 kWh

VS

3000+ watt surge.
I've seen old top loaders bury a old stout trace U2512.
It will destroy the samlex

Jay
Peltz power.



Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 28, 2016, at 9:21 AM, frenergy <frene...@psln.com> wrote:

Off-gridders,

I've got a customer that wants to run a few very small loads (less 
than 200 watts) but also a 20 year old washing machine (vertical axis).  Any 
personal experiences with inverters smaller than the basic outback, Xantrex, 
trace, transformer type inverters?  I'm hoping to be able to run it with a 
1500-2000 watt Samlex.  Clue me in please.

Thanks,

Bill

Feather River Solar Electric
Bill Battagin, Owner
4291 Nelson St.
Taylorsville, CA 95983
530.284.7849
CA Lic 874049
www.frenergy.net


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Re: [RE-wrenches] PV output but no power

2016-07-02 Thread Allan Sindelar
Just got this thread. Mac and Larry are correct. As an old timer, this one 
example of great customer support (specifically understanding that installing 
dealers are their true customers) has given me cause to respect Kyocera and 
sell and approve them to my customer base. 

Allan Sindelar, Sindelar Solar

> On Jul 2, 2016, at 3:54 PM, Starlight Solar Power Systems 
> <la...@starlightsolar.com> wrote:
> 
> The dates of the defective KC-120-1 (and KC-80-1) are from late 1998 to Dec. 
> 2002. Any modules in the date period will be replaced at no cost by Kyocera. 
> Talk about amazing commitment to the customer, these modules only had a 1 
> year defect warranty. 15 years later and they are still replacing them with 
> remanufactured units. 
> 
> Bill, the typical failure is Voc of about 10 volts. However, the failure can 
> be intermittent. For this reason, any modules in the date period should be 
> replaced even though they appear to test OK.
> 
> Larry Crutcher
> Starlight Solar Power Systems
> 
> 
> On Jul 2, 2016, at 3:17 PM, Mac Lewis <maclew...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Kyocera had a batch of 120s and 85s that had bad solder connections from a 
> certain year. I'm not remembering the year at the moment but we are still 
> finding them.
> 
> Kyocera has been really amazing about honoring the warranty.
> 
> 
>> On Jul 2, 2016 2:52 PM, "Jerry Shafer" <jerrysgarag...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Wrenches
>> Bypass diods fail and may short 
>> Jerry
>> 
>>> On Jul 2, 2016 1:49 PM, "frenergy" <frene...@psln.com> wrote:
>>> I just came upon a small off-grid system: 12 volt, 4, Kyo 120's (I,mppt= 
>>> 7.1A; Voc = 21.7 or so), Trace C40 with display, etc.   The combiner has 
>>> fuses for each PV/landing.  At noon, output of the array is 10.5 amps.  
>>> Clamping the 4 pvs I get 5.5 amps on 2 PVs and 0.0 on 2 others.  I 
>>> disconnect leads from terminals in PV j-box of the 'dead' PVs and I get 
>>> Voc=18.5 (pretty hot day) and Isc= 6 amps. However when I reconnect these 
>>> same PVs to the combiner there is no change in combined amps.  Fronts and 
>>> backs of PVs look good, no burns, browns, bubbles in backsheet, under the 
>>> glass looks fine, its all good.  Inside the J-boxes look perfect/new.
>>> Ideas?
>>> Thx,
>>> Bill
>>> 
>>> Feather River Solar Electric
>>> Bill Battagin, Owner
>>> 4291 Nelson St.
>>> Taylorsville, CA 95983
>>> 530.284.7849
>>> CA Lic 874049
>>> www.frenergy.net   
> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Building strings of modules with variable voltages?

2016-06-23 Thread Allan Sindelar
Whoops, meant for another; posted here by mistake.
Allan

> On Jun 22, 2016, at 11:56 PM, Dan Fink <danbo...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Sorry, I don't understand the reference.
> 
>> On Jun 22, 2016 11:24 PM, "Allan Sindelar" <al...@sindelarsolar.com> wrote:
>> Ok, does that mean I should dial, oh, two of the ten digits of your number?  
>>  ;^}
>> 
>>> On Jun 22, 2016, at 11:17 PM, Dan Fink <danbo...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Dan; rough-and-tumble world indeed here off the grid! My understanding is 
>>> that Voc will still be additive, minus degradation over the years, but that 
>>> the larger Pmax modules will be current limited for Imp by the smaller 
>>> ones. So your 245w modules could only do 100w in the scenario you give.
>>> 
>>> My solution has always been just stick with PWM controllers in these 
>>> situations.
>>> 
>>>> On Jun 22, 2016 10:37 AM, "Daniel Tittmann" <dan...@greenwired.com> wrote:
>>>> In the rough and tumble world of off grid system management for people who 
>>>> have been piecing together systems for years it is not uncommon for our 
>>>> company to come to a project and find many different types of solar 
>>>> modules.  In most cases these modules are working fine and producing power 
>>>> but often have different output profiles.   In an effort to upgrade 
>>>> systems and increase production I have often had the idea of building 
>>>> string of these different modules and feeding them into an MPPT 
>>>> controller. 
>>>> 
>>>> Can anyone out there explain if this would be a good idea or a bad one?  
>>>> 
>>>> Let say we have 
>>>> 4 x 100 watt 17.5 Vmp modules 
>>>> 2 x 245 watt 30.5 Vmp modules
>>>> 
>>>> what would be the outcome of 2 strings of modules
>>>> both with: 2 x 100 watt + 1 x 245 watt  
>>>> would this cause issues with the MPPT controller (say OB FM60) or the 
>>>> modules? Obviously you need to build strings that will fit the profile of 
>>>> the controller and not over to the series string rating and voltage 
>>>> tolerance of the modules but from a production standpoint where does this 
>>>> land?
>>>> 
>>>> thanks for your advice
>>>> Cheers-
>>>> Daniel
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Daniel Tittmann 
>>>> CTO
>>>> Greenwired
>>>> www.greenwired.com
>>>> dan...@greenwired.com
>>>> 707-923-2001 (office)
>>>> 707-206-5088 (Cell)
>>>> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Building strings of modules with variable voltages?

2016-06-23 Thread Allan Sindelar
Ok, does that mean I should dial, oh, two of the ten digits of your number?   
;^}

> On Jun 22, 2016, at 11:17 PM, Dan Fink  wrote:
> 
> Dan; rough-and-tumble world indeed here off the grid! My understanding is 
> that Voc will still be additive, minus degradation over the years, but that 
> the larger Pmax modules will be current limited for Imp by the smaller ones. 
> So your 245w modules could only do 100w in the scenario you give.
> 
> My solution has always been just stick with PWM controllers in these 
> situations.
> 
>> On Jun 22, 2016 10:37 AM, "Daniel Tittmann"  wrote:
>> In the rough and tumble world of off grid system management for people who 
>> have been piecing together systems for years it is not uncommon for our 
>> company to come to a project and find many different types of solar modules. 
>>  In most cases these modules are working fine and producing power but often 
>> have different output profiles.   In an effort to upgrade systems and 
>> increase production I have often had the idea of building string of these 
>> different modules and feeding them into an MPPT controller. 
>> 
>> Can anyone out there explain if this would be a good idea or a bad one?  
>> 
>> Let say we have 
>> 4 x 100 watt 17.5 Vmp modules 
>> 2 x 245 watt 30.5 Vmp modules
>> 
>> what would be the outcome of 2 strings of modules
>> both with: 2 x 100 watt + 1 x 245 watt  
>> would this cause issues with the MPPT controller (say OB FM60) or the 
>> modules? Obviously you need to build strings that will fit the profile of 
>> the controller and not over to the series string rating and voltage 
>> tolerance of the modules but from a production standpoint where does this 
>> land?
>> 
>> thanks for your advice
>> Cheers-
>> Daniel
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Daniel Tittmann 
>> CTO
>> Greenwired
>> www.greenwired.com
>> dan...@greenwired.com
>> 707-923-2001 (office)
>> 707-206-5088 (Cell)
>> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Shurflo pump

2016-06-01 Thread Allan Sindelar

Gary,
What I suspect may be at issue is the wire. Shurflo requires jacketed 
cable (10 or 12 AWG) of a particulat dimensional range. The issue is 
that few suppliers carry the right cable. It's a Code issue - any pump 
with a metal case requires an equipment bonding conductor (silly, I 
know) which means three conductors, which won't fit in the cable gland. 
Having a nonconductive plastic case, the 9300 only needs two conductors, 
will only fit two conductors, and no pump or electrical supply house 
carries two-conductor cable because nothing they sell uses it. Sort of a 
catch-22.


Also, using unjacketed (yellow) multiconductor cable is a guaranteed way 
to get water into the motor.


Hope this helps.
Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 cell*

**

On 6/1/2016 12:53 PM, Gary Higbee wrote:

Drake and Wrenches,

Interesting timing as I experienced a failure with my 9300 a couple 
weeks ago. I originally installed the pump about 17 years ago for an 
off-grid cabin I had then. I put the pump in the well, tested it, then 
removed it after a year or so. In total it had about 30 minutes of run 
time. The pump sat around in the house for about 15 years before I 
tested it in a bucket, in preparation for installing it in a new well 
on a different piece of land. The test went fine though I decided to 
put a new gland connector on the wire, which was a royal pain. The 10 
ga submersible wire just met the maximum width noted in the 
documentation yet the hard plastic collar seemed to rub hard on the 
wire jacket when assembled and screwed in.


Down the new hole went the pump and we ran it solar-direct for 
testing. To our joy up came the water. Thirty minutes later, to our 
great dismay, the pump ran very slow then stopped (oh, from joy to 
despair in such a short time!). Testing showed module current around 
Isc for those conditions and only a couple volts, about 1 ohm with the 
module disconnected. Up came the works and we connected the module 
directly to the pump. No go. It seemed there may have been a little 
water where the gland connected to the pump socket, or it may have 
been a drip.


I haven’t taken the pump apart yet so don’t know if it’s got water in 
it (expect it does). My guess is either the new gland connection had 
some problem OR the pump seals deteriorated as it sat on the shelf all 
those years (argh, should have thought of this possibility and 
replaced the seals).


Currently I’m waffling a bit on whether to rebuild the 9300 and try 
again or go with a Grundfos SQFlex. I’m not excited about the ~ $2500 
for that (with controller, etc.), also am not excited about regular 
maintenance and maybe questionable reliability with the 9300.


I agree with the comments of others to run the pump solar-direct. If 
no success check the voltage and current with the module connected. It 
could be a short, as I experienced.


Then begs the question as to whether if rebuilt the Shurflo is worth 
putting back in the hole, or might better serve as a super-efficient 
water feature pump and spend the big bucks for a different well 
solution. The Grundfos I installed in a different well on the same 
land 16 years ago still runs flawlessly.


Gary

Gary Higbee
Windstream Solar
Oregon License 17LRT
Renewable Energy Consulting
Contracted with Energy Trust of Oregon and Emerald People's Utility 
District

g...@windstreamsolar.com <mailto:g...@windstreamsolar.com>
541-954-3881


Date: Tue, 31 May 2016 23:54:35 -0600
From: Allan Sindelar <al...@sindelarsolar.com 
<mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>>


Mac,
My experience is similar but slightly different. I have worked with the
Shurflo 9300 for nearly twenty years. I have closely followed the mfgr's
directions - even the temporary wrap of tape - and as far as I can
recall have had maybe one failure due to water penetration at the cable
gland. But I have seen a number of homeowner installs with this failure,
so it's easy to not get right. I agree that a fixed, sealed pigtail
would be a better approach, like a SunRotor, Grundfos or Lorentz.

The 9300 has a one-year warranty as I recall. Running open discharge
without float or time control, such as all day into a wildlife pond with
overflow, the pumps last about 1 1/2 years before needing the
diaphragm/drive kit and valve kit for a minor rebuild. If water never
reaches the motor, it will last through several of these lifetimes, but
usually folks don't do the service until the pump stops, and often a
failed diaphragm leads to water reaching the motor. But I have seen many
of these pumps go five or more years of intermittent duty needing nothing.

And the pump will run at less than half speed on a 12V battery. Standard
DC brush motor - speed and thus output vary directly wit

Re: [RE-wrenches] Shurflo pump

2016-05-31 Thread Allan Sindelar

Mac,
My experience is similar but slightly different. I have worked with the 
Shurflo 9300 for nearly twenty years. I have closely followed the mfgr's 
directions - even the temporary wrap of tape - and as far as I can 
recall have had maybe one failure due to water penetration at the cable 
gland. But I have seen a number of homeowner installs with this failure, 
so it's easy to not get right. I agree that a fixed, sealed pigtail 
would be a better approach, like a SunRotor, Grundfos or Lorentz.


The 9300 has a one-year warranty as I recall. Running open discharge 
without float or time control, such as all day into a wildlife pond with 
overflow, the pumps last about 1 1/2 years before needing the 
diaphragm/drive kit and valve kit for a minor rebuild. If water never 
reaches the motor, it will last through several of these lifetimes, but 
usually folks don't do the service until the pump stops, and often a 
failed diaphragm leads to water reaching the motor. But I have seen many 
of these pumps go five or more years of intermittent duty needing nothing.


And the pump will run at less than half speed on a 12V battery. Standard 
DC brush motor - speed and thus output vary directly with voltage.

Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 cell*

**

On 5/31/2016 1:30 PM, Mac Lewis wrote:

Hi Drake,

I'll second Kevin's suggestion that it may be the waterproofing 
gland.  I see this as a very weak part of this pumps design and won't 
ever use that pump again because of it.  The aquatec SWP-4000 is a 
very similar pump.  Pump manufacturers should take responsibility for 
the water-proofing into their unit.  Under water splices are super 
easy compared to the gland/grease mess routine required with these pumps.


As Kevin suggested, bypass the controller and put good ~ 24VDC down 
there (using batteries off of your cordless tools works well for this) 
 These pumps will pump off 18-20V.


Good luck

On Tue, May 31, 2016 at 10:58 AM, Kevin Pegg 
<kp...@energyalternatives.ca <mailto:kp...@energyalternatives.ca>> wrote:


Hi Drake,

We have a lot of these pumps in the field, operating without issue
for many years, though they are generally operating on some sort
of regular basis. But lots of customers with seasonal situations
that may have the pump idle for 10 months a year.

I would suggest applying 12/24VDC battery power directly to the
pump bypassing controller and see if you get any action, then can
narrow down if it is a pump issue or a controller issue. Another
issue is the waterproof gland if not done properly can result in
connection issues. Have had a few of those.

Kevin

*From:*RE-wrenches
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
<mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org>] *On Behalf Of
*Drake
*Sent:* May-31-16 8:27 AM
*To:* RE-wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
<mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org>>
*Subject:* [RE-wrenches] Shurflo pump

Hello Wrenches,

A couple years back we installed a Shurflo 9325-043-101 water
pump. It runs array direct. After installation, it worked fine.
Since then, it  has not been used. The client tried to operate it
recently,and it didn't work. A red light is showing in the controller.

How well do these systems hold up if not used?

I haven't gone out to the site yet, but wanted to get some
background from you water pumping guys about shelf life of idle
systems.

Thanks,

Drake

Drake Chamberlin
/Athens Electric LLC
OH License 44810
CO License 3773
NABCEP Certified Solar PV
740-448-7328 
/http://athens-electric.com/


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--



Mac Lewis

*

"Yo solo sé que no sé nada." -Sócrates

*


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Compressor motor/SW+5548

2016-05-30 Thread Allan Sindelar
Yes, the SW4024 and SW4048 could start larger surge loads than the 
SW5548, because both allowed the output voltage to dip farther under 
surge. The 5548 was more tightly regulated in order to reduce the 
flickering caused by the voltage dip of a large motor under load.


I learned this around 2002 when I was designing Jane Fonda's GTWB system 
for her ranch in Pecos NM. We used three inverters: an SW4048 for 
background fridges, pumps and mechanicals, an SW5548 for normal house 
loads, and an Exeltech MX series for clean A/V & computer circuits. The 
two SWs were not stacked, running to separate 120V load centers. Still 
working, although she's no longer the owner. Original battery bank, 
still (Surrette 1104 AH(?) KS-series, two strings)...

Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
al...@sindelarsolar.com <mailto:al...@sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 cell*

**

On 5/30/2016 1:24 PM, Dan Fink wrote:
boB, a spongey line on a load? Done it with windmills, never with a 
load. Makes complete sense to me, I'll add that to the old bag of tricks.


Dan Fink
Adjunct Professor of Solar Energy Technology, Ecotech Institute
IREC Certified Instructor™ for:
~ PV Installation Professional
~ Small Wind Installer
Executive Director, Buckville Energy
NABCEP Registered Continuing Education Providers™
970.672.4342 


On Mon, May 30, 2016 at 12:54 PM, b...@midnitesolar.com 
<mailto:b...@midnitesolar.com> <b...@midnitesolar.com 
<mailto:b...@midnitesolar.com>> wrote:



The (newer) SW5548 was harder on over current protection, mainly
because

it could put out more current than the SW4048...

One trick to try is to place a long(ish) extension cord between
the SW and the load to give it a wee bit of series resistance.

Doing this would often reduce that OCP and help motors to start.

boB


On 5/30/2016 11:03 AM, Dan Fink wrote:

Does your air compressor have an unloader valve, or can you
install one?
That should do the trick, sounds like you are just running into
the regular high surge current demand.
Off the grid, compressors are in about the same nasty league as
old well pumps as far as surge demand.




Dan Fink
Adjunct Professor of Solar Energy Technology, Ecotech Institute
IREC Certified Instructor™ for:
~ PV Installation Professional
~ Small Wind Installer
Executive Director, Buckville Energy
NABCEP Registered Continuing Education Providers™
970.672.4342 


On Mon, May 30, 2016 at 10:46 AM, Jeremy Rodriguez
<allsolarjer...@msn.com <mailto:allsolarjer...@msn.com>> wrote:

Hello
I've got an SW+5548 that will barley start my air compressor.
Once it does run it shows 17 Amps on the inverters loads
meter. During start up it reads 60+ amps.
Do you think better capacitors would help the situation?
BTW I've never ran the compressor off grid prior.
I even tried #8 from the Breaker to the pressure switch,
about 9ft, with no benefit. The compressor will only start
with the tank completely empty.

Jeremy Rodriguez
Solar Installation And Design Expert
All Solar, Inc.
1463 M St
Penrose Colorado 81240

Sent by Jeremy's iPhone. Sorry for typos and shorthand!
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Thermal Camera for PV Troubleshooting?

2016-05-16 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Bill,
If you are looking for a less sophisticated and less expensive unit,
I recently purchased (on Amazon) a Seek Compact Thermal Imager that
plugs into the port on my iPhone for $236. A downloaded app runs it,
and it shows thermal images on the phone's screen. To date I have
done little more than test it out; it showed thermal images very
well, and may be all you need for troubleshooting. I think the phone
can photograph the images for a record. 
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 5/16/2016 3:32 PM, Bill Loesch
  wrote:


  
  
  Fellow Wrenches,
  
  Has anyone made use of any InfraRed (Thermal) cameras for
  diagnosing module performance faults?
  
  Thanks,
  Bill Loesch
Solar 1 - Saint Louis Solar
314 631 1094
  
  
  

  

Virus-free. www.avast.com

  

  
  
  
  
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Off-grid generator update?

2016-05-04 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Lena and all,
I was watching this thread closely, as I have shared your concerns
and I was hoping to hear of any new solutions. In this thread I hear
of Gillette (always positively over the years that this question has
come up), one 5.5kW Onan RV set (120V only and too small for all but
an Outback VFX at close to sea level), and Hardy diesel units. I
have nothing to add to these suggestions.

I went out on a limb a few years ago in suggesting the Generac
EcoGen, hoping that this would fill this need and restore Generac as
a worthy name. I think now I have to just say "eh..." - yes, it
works, but too many problems have been noted here, and Generac's
dealer support system is poorly suited to the off grid market.

Thank you to all who replied. 
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
    Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 4/28/2016 10:19 AM, Lena Wilensky
  wrote:


  I did some searches on the list for what folks are
doing for off-grid propane generators these days, but all the
threads I found were from 5-6 yrs ago, so I was hoping to get
some more current info.


We're looking for about a 10kw+ propane unit (big derate at
  altitude), and we run into 2 main problem areas:


First is the warranty - either there are no units
  warranteed for off-grid use, or there are only a couple of
  models and the warranty is short (1 year).


Second, and perhaps larger, is all the loads that now come
  with the "off-grid" units.  The computer takes some, but
  mostly the "cold weather kit" aka carb heater must be
  installed in our climate (to actually start, but also for
  warrantee), and it's set up to be on a thermostat (read: "on
  all the time from Nov-April" here in the mountains). 
  According to the Kohler tech support it takes a steady 50W. We
  have set up older units to do battery charge only during the
  day, and have the carb heater on a manual switch, but it
  sounds like we can't really get at these circuits anymore
  since they're all pre-configured and pre-wired in the guts of
  the genset computer.


The Kohler and Onan support folks said both these issues
  are due to EPA considering off-grid use as prime power as
  opposed to standby, so they are held to tougher emissions
  standards.


Whatever the reasons, we're wondering what people are
  actually doing these days - still the standby units they
  kind-of warrantee for off-grid? 12RES from Kohler and the 13kw
  unit from Onan?  Generac?  Have folks been going back to the
  smaller gas units from Honda and running them more?  And how
  are cold climate folks dealing with the heating issue?


Any suggestions appreciated!

  

  

  Lena Wilensky

www.nunatakenergy.com
970-642-5554
NABCEP Certified PV Installer:
Cert. #R02907-17

  

  

  

  
  
  
  
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[RE-wrenches] Inverter/AC pump compatibility question

2016-04-25 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Wrenches,
Has anyone powered a Grundfos SQ or SQE series soft-start AC
submersible pump from a modified square wave inverter?
I need to run a 1/2 hp 115V AC sub on a 1990-era Heart EMS 2800-12.
The customer likes his equipment so I'm not encouraging an inverter
upgrade.
Thank you,
Allan
-- 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

  

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Re: [RE-wrenches] small inverters

2016-04-21 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Jay,
The Exeltechs can be routinely ordered with the Low Idle option,
which I think brings the idle draw down to 10W. In some small
applications, a remote on/off switch allows the user to manually (or
otherwise with additional external control, I suppose) turn the unit
on or off, further reducing the idle. 
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 4/20/2016 7:20 PM, jay wrote:


  Hi All,

I’ve got someone looking for a small inverter.  12 or 24v, 300-1000 watts is the range.

I’ve had such bad experiences with magnum that I am just not wanting to use them ever again.

Many of the small units ( samalex etc)  have a fan that runs, makes too much noise, high idle current.

I’d like pure sine wave.

Morning star 300 watt is a nice unit, would be on the small side.

Exeltech are nice but I think maybe have too much idle power.

Any other options out there than I folks can recommend?

Thanks

jay

peltz power



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Re: [RE-wrenches] float switch for grundfos submersible

2016-04-21 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Bill,
I have always used the CU200 ("Sorry, sir, that's what it costs to
give you what you want...") when a float switch is called for (which
is nine times out of ten) so I haven't done this, but:
The only alternative to their proprietary product would be a means
to break the incoming AC or DC feed to the pump. That means placing
the float switch in line with the power supply ahead of the pump. A
conventional float switch is likely to arc and soon fail, possibly
closed. A mercury-switch float switch, intended for non-potable
applications, would function at high DC voltages. I'm extrapolating
this from memories of MDI (Mercury Displacement Industries) being
used to control PV input DC on the APT/Ananda Powercenters of yore.
The catch is that by including mercury, they can't meet standards
for potable water. So if this is for a regulated facility like a
public well it won't fly, but for a private homeowner you might
offer it as a practical solution. (I used them a number of times in
other pump applications before I learned of the potable/non-potable
distinction, and never had one fail.)
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
    Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 4/20/2016 8:36 PM, Bill Hennessy
  wrote:


  
Hi folks--

  
Can
  anyone recommend a non-factory, inline float switch for a
  Grundfos pv-powered submersible? Not interested in paying the
  $350 for the Grundfos controller.
The
  float switch contacts will need to handle the arcing of about
  120 VDC.
  

  

 

  Bill Hennessy
Berks Solar, LLC
371 Centennial Rd
Mertztown, PA 19539

o 610 682 4300
c 484 560 4666
NABCEP certified installer
PA contractor #44411
www.berkssolar.com




  


  
 
  

  
  
  
  
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[RE-wrenches] Specific AC Coupling question

2016-04-04 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Wrenches,
Core question first: Will a ~2010 Fronius IG-4000 respond properly
to the frequency shift regulation supplied by a new Schneider
XW+5548 or XW+6848?

Situation: I haven't seen the Colorado site; I'm working as a
consultant to produce an upgrade component list and will later serve
as a resource during local installation of the upgrade equipment.
Customer has hired me to turn a hodgepodge system into a GTBB
system. The system has two key parts: an existing SW5548 with
batteries, never properly installed (only AC1 in was ever connected
to a main load center!) with 3.1 kW of tracker-mounted PV through an
Outback FM60; and a roof-mounted 4kW array feeding the grid panel
via the IG-4000. As currently installed, nothing will operate as
wired during a grid outage, and a 240V AC well pump isn't supported.

The simple plan is to replace the SW5548 with an XW+5548 or 6848
with Midnite E-Panel; replace batteries with Surrette FLAs; keep
existing arrays unchanged; use existing FM60 for smaller tracked
array; use existing Fronius IG-4000 but AC couple it to the output
of the XW. The customer understands that sell amperage is limited by
the inverter (to 20A @ 240V for the 5548, or 4,800W, or 27A @ 240V
for the 6848, or 6,480W) when the grid is up, but the full array can
charge the battery bank when the grid is down.

Schneider tech support assures me that the XW+ is good in this
application, but I need to get an OK from Fronius about
frequency-shift compatibility. Fronius tech support tells me that it
may or may not work: the 0.4 hz shift is within the the normal
frequency tolerance for this model. While the tolerance window may
be tightened up in the field, such tightening may cause nuisance
tripping, especially with reactive loads like a well pump or A/C.
The tech suggested that we first test the frequency-shift approach,
and add a DC-coil contactor between the output of the Fronius and
the XW+ if it doesn't.

Has anyone AC coupled these two units? Did it work? Any unexpected
problems? Did you add a voltage-controlled contactor? What should I
advise my client?
Thank you,
Allan
-- 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

  

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[RE-wrenches] 600V charge controller questions

2016-01-30 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Wrenches,
I am serving as a consultant for a homeowner with an array of solar
equipment that doesn't do what he wants, a common story. He wants
independence in the event of an extended utility outage. To cut to
the chase:

He has one array of 3,100 watts feeding through a controller into a
48V battery bank. No issues with this.
A second array of 4,230 rated watts (2 9-module strings of 235W
Sharp modules) currently feeds a Fronius IG-4000 inverter and the
grid. In the event of an outage this system shuts down, of course.
He is looking at replacing his existing pair of old SW5548s with a
single Schneider XW system, or possibly a Radian. 
I would like to give him the ability to switch from the Fronius
inverter to a 600V charge controller if either a) the grid went down
or b) the Fronius failed. 

I looked at Morningstar's TS-MPPT-600 controller with the DC
transfer switch, but its DC output is rated as limited to 60A, less
than the 4.2kW output of the array. The spec sheet gives a nominal
maximum wattage of 3,200W, although a note adds that "input power
can exceed Nominal Maximum Operating Power, but controller will
limit and provide its rated continuous maximum output current into
batteries. This will not harm the controller." 

I looked at Schneider's XW MPPT80 controller, which has the
necessary higher capacity. But beside lacking any built-in or
optional input metering, it lacks the transfer switch available with
the Morningstar.

So questions:
- Is there a good transfer switch to use with the Schneider unit, to
allow manual switching of the PV input between the Fronius (when the
grid is up) and the controller and batteries (when the grid is
down)?
- Should I use the Morningstar unit, recommending that the periodic
flatlining due to the excess wattage be simply accepted as a small
concession to being able to use the array during an extended outage?
- Is AC coupling simply a better approach?
- Any other solutions?

Thanks, Allan

-- 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
    Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

  

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Plastic washers

2016-01-28 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Chris,
As only the threads of all SS bolts need anti-seize, there's a much
neater method. Anti-seize is available in a solid twist-to-extend
tube that is neat and easy to use. One light swipe across the make
threads of each bolt - doesn't take much to prevent galling.
I checked in my toolbag - I'm holding a tube of Loctite Quickstix
Silver Grade Anti-Seize, product #37230. Probably got it through
Fastenal.
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 1/28/2016 11:35 AM, Chris Mason
  wrote:


  Our house is on the ocean,  in the Caribbean. If you
are using something like SnapNRack,  where a stainless bolt goes
through an aluminium channel nut, use Permatex or it will seize.
Other than that,  I have not seen racking corrosion in eight
years on the roof. Put all the clamps, bolts, nuts etc, in a
bucket and spray it all with Permatex anti seize. It will be
messy but very effective. You'll have fingerprints on the
modules but oh, well.
  On Jan 28, 2016 2:16 PM, "Ray Walters"
<r...@solarray.com>
wrote:

   I would use a SS washer
with integrated Neoprene rubber gasket.  We use them on roof
work, and Unirac uses them under the lag on their roof
flashings. 

https://www.copperstate.com/shop/429/neoprene-washers

Thanks,
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer, 
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760
On 1/28/2016 8:25 AM, Jay wrote:


  Hi Larry
  
  
  I wasn't planning on installing anything between al
and al. Just between SS and al. So the module will still
be bolted directly to the al rack material. I'm not too
worried about the grounding, and certainly not worried
enough to install lay in lugs with copper to each
module. 
  
  
  As lones pointed out, there are parts that would
insulate the bolt. 
  But as the owner hasn't requested that, not going to
suggest it!
  
  
  I sure didn't plan on stirring the pot like this. 
  Just really wanted some help on sourcing the washers
  
  
  Thanks
  
  
  Jay
  Peltz power
  
On Jan 28, 2016, at 6:49 AM, Starlight Solar Power
Systems <la...@starlightsolar.com>

wrote:

  
  
 Hey Jay,
  
  
  I’m still trying to picture this and had a
thought: If you isolate the module from the rack
electrically with these washers, and both are
grounded, and the two grounds are not at the same
potential (different length ground runs), you may be
creating a path for high voltage into the array in
event of a near lightning strike. 
  
  
  Also, if the washer is between the two metals,
how will you isolate the bolt that puts them
together from not touching the sides of the holes? 
Perhaps you need to look into non-conductive
fasteners as well.
  

  

  

  
Larry Crutcher
Starlight Solar Power Systems

  
  

  

  

  



  On Jan 27, 2016, at 6:44 PM, Jay <jay.pe...@gmail.com>
wrote:
  
  

  

Re: [RE-wrenches] Battery Box Construction

2016-01-28 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Ray,
Just a couple of weeks ago we installed a 24V HUP set in an existing
installation. We had an existing plywood battery box made of Baltic
Birch (the 9-ply 12mm thick plywood typically used for cabinet
drawer carcases) with a liner made of 40(?)-mil pond liner material.
We removed the six cells from the steel case, set the case in place
in the plywood box and lowered the cells into it. However, the box
had a non-removable 5" wide strip across the top rear, and we needed
to slide the entire 1100 pound case back about 8" in order to fit
both steel cases.

Before setting the steel case in the box I sprayed the floor of the
pond liner with a layer of the new spray pulling lube from Klein
Tools, then set the steel case in place and lowered the cells. Using
a Porta-Power and some blocking, we slid the case into place with
little effort. 

You might find that vinyl pond liner works well in a plywood box. We
found it at a Home Depot.
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
    Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 1/28/2016 3:25 PM, Ray Walters
  wrote:

Hi
  All;
  
  
  We're looking to improve our battery box construction, and are
  considering using 1/8" think polypropylene sheeting.  I've used
  small premade boxes before, but this will be for a HUP install,
  and we would want to build the box around the batteries after. 
  Does anyone have experience/ comments on welding plastic?  The
  alternative would be to just seal the seams with acid resistant
  caulking. (silicone, Geocell, ?)
  
  I've had good luck in the past just using 10 mil plastic sheeting
  stapled up on the inside of a plywood box, but we will be scooting
  1000 lb batteries around on it, so I don't think the sheeting will
  hold up.
  
  
  Thanks,
  
  


  

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Re: [RE-wrenches] LiFePO4; WAS Availability of Powerwall Batteries

2016-01-23 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Larry,
Thank you for correcting my post. As I have not signed an NDA I
didn't know this. The only term I recall hearing was "manufacture".
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
    Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 1/22/2016 3:46 PM, Starlight Solar
  Power Systems wrote:


  
  Hi Allan,
  
  
  I would like to challenge the use of the term
"locally manufactured". Mccune Solar Works does not manufacture
lithium batteries. They purchase battery cells from China and
package other third party components like EMS and relays to make
a lithium battery  system. Very similar to what we do except our
LFMP battery package EMS and CPU is designed by the manufacturer
exclusively for GBS batteries. Perhaps a better term would be
LFP battery dealer or integrator.
  
  
  

  

  

  Larry
Crutcher
Starlight Solar Power Systems
  
  
  
  
  

  

  


  On Jan 22, 2016, at 12:30 PM, Allan Sindelar
<al...@sindelarsolar.com>
wrote:
  
  

 Wrenches,
  A longtime off grid friend of mine, with whom both I and
  Positive Energy have collaborated on difficult
  installations over the years, just purchased a 24V 230AH,
  120 lb. LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron
  Phosphate) battery bank that is locally manufactured in
  Albuquerque. It's still too small and too expensive to run
  his entire home, so he has devised a battery switching
  system and is keeping his older FLAs in operation while he
  tests these and affords more strings. So far he's quite
  pleased with the performance, but there's not yet a track
  record for his set.
  
  So I want to pass on this low-key manufacturer: Chuck
  McCune, McCune Industries, http://www.mccunesolarworks.com,
  (866) 622-8630. I believe that a legal Non-Disclosure
  Agreement is necessary to get the real info.
  
  Contact me off list if you'd like to speak with my friend
  with the new set. I believe that he has set up as a
  regional dealer. 
  Allan
  
  










    
  Allan Sindelar
al...@sindelarsolar.com
NABCEP
  Certified PV Installation Professional
  NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
  New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
  Founder (Retired), Positive

Energy, Inc.
  505 780-2738 cell
  
  
   

  
  
  

  

  
  
  
  
  
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Re: [RE-wrenches] LiFePO4; WAS Availability of Powerwall Batteries

2016-01-22 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Wrenches,
A longtime off grid friend of mine, with whom both I and Positive
Energy have collaborated on difficult installations over the years,
just purchased a 24V 230AH, 120 lb. LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron
Phosphate) battery bank that is locally manufactured in Albuquerque.
It's still too small and too expensive to run his entire home, so he
has devised a battery switching system and is keeping his older FLAs
in operation while he tests these and affords more strings. So far
he's quite pleased with the performance, but there's not yet a track
record for his set.

So I want to pass on this low-key manufacturer: Chuck McCune, McCune
Industries, http://www.mccunesolarworks.com, (866) 622-8630. I
believe that a legal Non-Disclosure Agreement is necessary to get
the real info.

Contact me off list if you'd like to speak with my friend with the
new set. I believe that he has set up as a regional dealer. 
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 1/22/2016 9:26 AM, August Goers
  wrote:


  
  
  
  
I’m chiming in
a bit late on this one.
 
Solaredge is
compatible with SunPower. See the P400:
 
http://www.solaredge.us/groups/us/powerbox/module-add-on
 
Solarege has
been very popular in the Bay Area among SunPower and
non-SunPower dealers.
 
I’ve attended a
Tesla Powerwall training and the product is coming but it
will probably be a slow and limited rollout (just my gut
based on what I saw). The 400 volt battery output in
particular will be the most revolutionary part of the
product in my opinion. The Storedge product is their 1st
gen battery product (I believe) so only time will tell how
it works:
 
http://www.solaredge.us/groups/us/products/storedge
 
I’m not
convinced that any of the other lithium products are ready
for prime time. They are expensive and I don’t personally
want to spend the time or money to experiment with them at
this point. That said, we recently commissioned our first
dual Schneider XW+ system with AGMs and besides a few
hiccups, it looks like a very customizable and clean
package. I agree that storage is the future and certainly
the reduced size and increased cycling ability of lithiums
make them very appealing.
 
Cheers,
 
August
Luminalt
 
 

  
From:
RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org]
On Behalf Of Peter Parrish
Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2016 11:07 AM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Cc: peter.parr...@solargnosis.com
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Availability of Powerwall
Batteries
  

 
I
have a residential client who wants a grid tied PV system
with battery backup. The client wants everything to be top
of the line: Sunpower modules. Tesla Powerwall batteries. 
 
Unfortunately,
I have been spending time recently researching "smart energy
storage" for commercial applications focusing on peak demand
shaving. These are 480 V 3-phase systems with 30 kW
inverters and 48+ kWh Lithium technology batteries. I think
I am beginning to understand the performance trade-offs and
how these systems can complement PV to reduce demand charges
as well as usage charges.
 
My
problem, is that I have not spent as much time researching
the newer residential GTBB offerings. I have studied the
Juicebox offering – Schneider XW5548 plus NMC Lithium
batteries -- but that’s about it. I don’t know the default
vendor for the NMC batteries and if not Powerwall, could
Powerwall be a replacement? 
 
Otherwise,
does anyone know how to access the Powerwall offerings? 
Also has anyone had success getting a rebate in CA through
the SGIP/AES program? I know to qualify for SGIP one needs
to demonstrate load shifting 

Re: [RE-wrenches] Solarworld

2016-01-20 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Remember that anyone can view this list, so don't post prices in
your response.
Allan

  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
 
  

On 1/20/2016 5:59 PM, AE Solar wrote:

What's your definition of cheap...and for which size
  panels?
  


  

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Battery corrosion issue

2016-01-20 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Kristopher,
You might start with a smaller pilot hole and an easy-out or other
screw extractor. I have never seen this, so consider it just a
suggestion.
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 1/20/2016 2:53 PM, Kristopher Schmid
  wrote:


  Greetings,
  Do any of you battery gurus have a suggestion for a
method of removing a bolt remnant that is corroded into a flag
terminal.  Both sides snapped off flush with the flag.  I was
thinking try to drill it out or maybe a small gear pulling
tool?  I will never again use the non stainless hardware
supplied by the manufacturer...
  Picture attached for reference.
  Thanks!
  
  
  
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Surrette L-16 battereis

2015-12-27 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Following up on this earlier thread, Drake...
Now previously knowing these system details, my advice no longer
applies, simply because FLA industrial cells don't generally come
that small. This is a small bank. If his array is large enough to
properly charge a larger bank (the MX60 can handle around 3,200W at
48Vnom), smaller industrial cells would work. The smallest HUP 48V
system is rated at 845 A-hr and retails for just over $12K, about
what he planned for his nickel-irons. 
Any updates since this thread?
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 12/16/2015 6:17 AM, Drake wrote:


  Thanks for all the helpful responses.
  
  The battery bank is composed of 8 Trojan L-16E batteries in series
  with
  around 2.6 kW of PV on an older 48 V Outback system with one VFX
  3648 and
  one MX-60. I did not install the system, but I did supply the
  faltering
  bank of replacement L-16s. 
  
  
  At 12:37 PM 12/15/2015, you wrote:
  Drake,
Your request is missing specifics so my answer can only be
generic. Get
away from all L16s. Go to one string of industrial cells. There
are
numerous well-respected brands. I would put HUPs at about the
top.
www.hupsolarone.com.
Spend some
time on this website and it will become more clear.
Allan

Allan Sindelar
al...@sindelarsolar.com
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
505 780-2738 cell

 
On 12/15/2015 9:07 AM, Drake wrote:
Hello Wrenches,
  
  Even after my clients have learned to maintain their batteries
  properly,
  the Trojan L-16 batteries continue to crater, one cell at a
  time. One
  client is considering spending $12,000 on a nickel - iron
  battery bank he
  found on the web. This seems like a ridiculously large
  investment, but he
  is feeling desperate. We urgently need another option from the
  Trojan
  L-16s.
  
  How are the Surrette L-16s holding up? Would you recommend
  them as worth
  the extra investment?  
  
  What is the best battery to use in an off grid system these
  days.
  
  
  Thanks,
  
  Drake 
  
  Drake
  Chamberlin
  Athens Electric LLC
OH License 44810
CO License 3773
NABCEP Certified Solar PV 
740-448-7328
  http://athens-electric.com/
  
  
  
   This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected
  by
  Avast. 
  www.avast.com
  
  
  
  
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[RE-wrenches] Fwd: Refractometer reading has me stumped

2015-12-21 Thread Allan Sindelar
00
HBCO (V) 

70.0  64.4
Battery capacity
(AH)   

440 D 800
Max charge rate
(%)   

100 D 72
AC2 input Vmin
(V)      

80  

105
AC input
priority   

AC1   AC2
Charge control
and inverter EQ (V)  
64.0 D
62.2
CC and inverter
bulk & absorption voltage (V)
57.6 D 
58.8
CC and inverter
float (V)  

54.0 D
53.6

Given all of this, I can't explain the extremely low SG readings. I
tested about six or eight of the 48 cells, and all showed the same
range. I admit that I trust my refractometer, but given the other
readings, could I actually have completely dead cells, only three
months old, showing close to 60V with little current flowing in
while I measured them? WTF is going on here?
Thank you, as always,
Allan
-- 
Allan Sindelar
al...@sindelarsolar.com
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Surrette L-16 battereis

2015-12-15 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Drake,
Your request is missing specifics so my answer can only be generic.
Get away from all L16s. Go to one string of industrial cells. There
are numerous well-respected brands. I would put HUPs at about the
top. www.hupsolarone.com. Spend some time on this website and it
will become more clear.
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 12/15/2015 9:07 AM, Drake wrote:


  Hello Wrenches,
  
  Even after my clients have learned to maintain their batteries
  properly,
  the Trojan L-16 batteries continue to crater, one cell at a time.
  One
  client is considering spending $12,000 on a nickel - iron battery
  bank he
  found on the web. This seems like a ridiculously large investment,
  but he
  is feeling desperate. We urgently need another option from the
  Trojan
  L-16s.
  
  How are the Surrette L-16s holding up? Would you recommend them as
  worth
  the extra investment?  
  
  What is the best battery to use in an off grid system these days.
  
  
  Thanks,
  
  Drake 
  
  Drake Chamberlin
  Athens Electric LLC
OH License 44810
CO License 3773
NABCEP Certified Solar PV 
740-448-7328
  http://athens-electric.com/
  
  
  

  
  
This email has been sent
  from a virus-free computer protected by Avast. 
  www.avast.com

  

  
  
  
  
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Surrette L-16 battereis

2015-12-15 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
I should add that my response was not intended to implicitly
denigrate Surrette. They are good batteries in general. While I have
experienced some failures, they have come through with good support
when needed. And they also have Steve Higgins as their technical
representative, which is a Major Plus.

I have installed and replaced a fair number of L16s over the years,
and still do, as they fill a common niche. I use them but dislike
them, and this is about their fundamental topology, not specific to
any brand. In most cases in homeowners' systems I find that they
last about as long as golf carts, seldom longer under similar
conditions. Really. They're less forgiving of abuse than golf carts
and more expensive per amp-hour. Lots of cells to fill, not a lot of
reserve capacity for water, and you can't bypass a single failed
cell, so a single string only works in 48V, as you can limp along at
42V while a replacement battery or set is on order, but not at 18V.


Both L16s and golf carts make good training batteries, and good
replacements when it's time to sell the house with fresh batteries.
Otherwise industrial cells are the most cost-effective and
long-lasting choice among FLAs, especially when replacement labor
(and sometimes freight) are factored in.
Allan
 

  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 12/15/2015 11:08 AM, Howie
  Michaelson wrote:


  
While I have no experience with HUP, I do have many years
  of experience with Rolls/Surrette.  They are a robust battery,
  and in my opinion superior to Trojan and other mid-line
  flavors. I am not as adamant about staying away from L16s as
  Allan, although I'd whole-heartedly agree with keeping to one
  string wherever possible, and 2 at most. 
  
  Of course, going to the 2-volt batteries almost always allows
  for single strings, and give you a much more robust battery,
  and are often the right choice even for budget conscious
  clients.  However, they are a much larger investment and take
  a much more robust charging system.  Sometimes it makes sense
  to start a new off-gridder on a set of less expensive
  "training" batteries, depending on your assessment of their
  learning curve, motivation, and budget. 
  
  As with all batteries, there are occasional cell failures,
  likely attributable to manu defects.  But I've found with
  Rolls, this is less common (except with the T12250 12-volt
  batteries which I have seen a significant failure rate over
  with the years).  And I have never had trouble getting
  batteries covered under warranty from them if I determine that
  the failure was not likely operator error.  But this is
  probably dependent upon having a good, trusting relationship
  with ones supplier, which I've always had with RAE Battery.

Howie
  
  

  
Howie
  Michaelson
  NABCEP Certified Solar PV Installer™
  Sun Catcher,
  LLC
  Renewable Energy Systems Sales and Service
VT Solar Electric Incentive Partner
  802-272-0004
  


On Tue, Dec 15, 2015 at 12:37 PM, Allan
  Sindelar <al...@sindelarsolar.com>
  wrote:
  
 Drake,
  Your request is missing specifics so my answer can only be
  generic. Get away from all L16s. Go to one string of
  industrial cells. There are numerous well-respected
  brands. I would put HUPs at about the top. www.hupsolarone.com. Spend some time
  on this website and it will become more clear.
  Allan
  
  

      Allan Sindelar
al...@sindelarsolar.com
NABCEP Certified PV
  Installation Professional
  NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
  New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
  Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
  505 780-2738 cell
  

   

  
  On 12/15/201

Re: [RE-wrenches] Module recommendation for a specific off grid situation

2015-12-14 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Todd, thanks, but I rejected them. They'd be a traditional match as
36-cell modules, but they're way expensive (nearly $2/W Dlr.) and it
would take 6 or 8 of them (140W these days) to get the ~kilowatt I'd
like. It would work but I'm trying to keep the cost down. 
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 12/14/2015 2:29 PM,
  toddc...@finestplanet.com wrote:


how about two of these in
  series?
  
  todd
 
 


  
  On Monday, December 14, 2015 12:37pm, "Allan Sindelar"
  <al...@sindelarsolar.com> said:
  


  Wrenches,
I enjoy the good feeling when I successfully integrate new
with old - sort of a steampunk approach. Here's an example
for which I could use the Collective Wisdom:

A customer wants to upgrade a chronically small array on a
maybe 10yo small off grid system done reasonably well by
others. The array is four 165W Siemens (Solarworld) 72-cell
modules on a top-of-pole rack, feeding an Outback MX60
controller on a 24V battery bank. To save cost in our rocky
soil I'd like to add four large modern modules on a fixed
ground mount rack, set fixed at latitude +5° for
winter-focused gain. But most of the modern 72-cell modules
use 156mm cells and are around 300W or higher. 1200W plus
the existing 660W is 1860W, and that exceeds what the
original MX60 is rated to handle. 

I know I could replace the controller with a Classic, but I
wonder if there's a smaller compatible 72-cell module at a
reasonable price. Any suggestions?

I also think it would be best to use a module with a lower
Vmp than I'd expect from the older Siemens modules, given
that they're likely degraded a little in voltage over ten
years (originally 35.3 Vmp rated). Does that make sense? So
what if I used four 60-cell modules, expecting their higher
current to pull the voltage of the original modules back a
bit toward Isc. How much would that lose? I'll bet it
wouldn't be much, and the cost would be low for the common
modules, especially those with lower 240W rating or below.
Again, any thoughts, please? And any suggestions of
particular modules? 

Thanks,
Allan
-- 
  



  
    
      Allan Sindelar
al...@sindelarsolar.com
NABCEP Certified PV
  Installation Professional
  NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
  New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
  Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
  505 780-2738 cell
  
  
   

  

  
  
  
  Sent from Finest Planet WebMail.
  
  
  
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[RE-wrenches] Module recommendation for a specific off grid situation

2015-12-14 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Wrenches,
I enjoy the good feeling when I successfully integrate new with old
- sort of a steampunk approach. Here's an example for which I could
use the Collective Wisdom:

A customer wants to upgrade a chronically small array on a maybe
10yo small off grid system done reasonably well by others. The array
is four 165W Siemens (Solarworld) 72-cell modules on a top-of-pole
rack, feeding an Outback MX60 controller on a 24V battery bank. To
save cost in our rocky soil I'd like to add four large modern
modules on a fixed ground mount rack, set fixed at latitude +5° for
winter-focused gain. But most of the modern 72-cell modules use
156mm cells and are around 300W or higher. 1200W plus the existing
660W is 1860W, and that exceeds what the original MX60 is rated to
handle. 

I know I could replace the controller with a Classic, but I wonder
if there's a smaller compatible 72-cell module at a reasonable
price. Any suggestions?

I also think it would be best to use a module with a lower Vmp than
I'd expect from the older Siemens modules, given that they're likely
degraded a little in voltage over ten years (originally 35.3 Vmp
rated). Does that make sense? So what if I used four 60-cell
modules, expecting their higher current to pull the voltage of the
original modules back a bit toward Isc. How much would that lose?
I'll bet it wouldn't be much, and the cost would be low for the
common modules, especially those with lower 240W rating or below.
Again, any thoughts, please? And any suggestions of particular
modules? 

Thanks,
Allan
-- 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive


  Energy, Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

  

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Mixing battery sizes in the same bank

2015-11-20 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Larry,
Nobody has responded to your question: "How can this possibly be OK
for the 75AH battery? And why would a battery manufacturer say
this?" and like you, it goes against everything that I have assumed.
But to answer that first question: when I look at, I wonder why it
wouldn't work. With AGM batteries you can tolerate both high and low
charging C/ rates and long absorption times. So it makes sense that
as long as the voltage remains the limiting factor and the array is
large enough to allow routine long absorption periods, it oughtta
work just fine. 

Your thoughts?
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
    Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
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  Energy,
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On 11/18/2015 5:09 PM, Starlight Solar
  Power Systems wrote:


  Just when I thought I was becoming a battery guru, this came up: A customer asked me if he could purchase two different size 12 volt Lifeline (Concorde) AGM batteries and connect them in parallel. Of course I told him this was a bad idea and all his parallel batteries should be same make, age, size. A few days later he called me back and said he talked to Lifeline battery and they told him it was fine to mix any size of their batteries together. Knowing that people sometimes hear wrong, I called Lifeline to inquire. The answer, "yes, you can mix any of our batteries in parallel. We have tested that and Concorde tested it and it’s no problem”. 

Stunned, I asked him if this was in writing anywhere and he said no but I could test this myself. So battery wrenches, what will happen if I have an 8D at 255AH paralleled to a group 24 at 75 AH and discharge this to 80% DoD? How can this possibly be OK for the 75AH battery? And why would a battery manufacturer say this?

Larry



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Re: [RE-wrenches] Centex

2015-11-03 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Drake,
We (as Positive Energy) and now I (as Sindelar Solar) have for years
now. Exceptional service and support, high integrity, clear
communication.
So yes, without reservation.
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 11/3/2015 7:59 AM, Drake wrote:


  
  

  Hello Wrenches,
  
  Has anyone dealt with Centex Batteries?  
  
  
  http://centexbatteries.com/PVX-4050HT.html 

  Would you give a good recommendation?
  
  Thanks,
  
  Drake 
  
  Drake
  Chamberlin
  Athens Electric LLC
OH License 44810
CO License 3773
NABCEP Certified Solar PV 
740-448-7328
  http://athens-electric.com/
  
  
  



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Re: [RE-wrenches] Classic 150 100 amp output breaker tripping?????

2015-10-31 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
boB,
I appreciate your contribution to this discussion, but it brings up
a couple of issues for me.

- You have suggested that "A good wiring practice these days is
to...wire the controller's
battery terminals close or right at the battery terminals." This
goes against all modern good practices of which I'm aware. We have
long accepted as standard a single pair of battery cables, with all
DC input and distribution handled within the power center (I've
heard that some people refer to these things as 'E-Panels'). It's
the only way to effectively run all current through a shunt on the
negative, and through proper overcurrent protection/disconnects on
the positive.

I must not have understood what you meant, as it sounds like you're
suggesting abandoning the entire E-Panel approach. What am I missing
here?
Thanks, Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
    Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 10/29/2015 7:10 PM,
  b...@midnitesolar.com wrote:

On
  10/29/2015 5:02 PM, Jay wrote:
  
  boB,

Is the OCP still being used and does it work in both directions?

JAY, Peltz power

  
  
  Hi Jay.  Yes, the OCP you refer to is still there.  This
  particular OCP though is a hardware
  
  fast OCP intended to protect the controller against large load
  surges on the battery
  
  side of the controller...   This usually happens when battery
  cables are long and
  
  the inverter(s) are connected electrically close to the
  controller, thereby drawing
  
  huge amounts of current from the Classic than from the battery
  when the inverter
  
  is turned on, charging its input capacitors or something with huge
  AC loads.
  
  
  A good wiring practice these days is to, if convenient at least,
  wire the controller's
  
  battery terminals close or right at the battery terminals.  Then,
  when an inverter
  
  is either turned on and giving a momentary short circuit to the
  battery lines, that
  
  current will come from the battery rather than the controller's
  electronics.
  
  
    Larger cables won't necessarily fix the problem due to battery
  cable inductance.
  
  
  The 150s and 200s rarely need the OCP circuitry.  The 250 is the
  one the OCP was
  
  really designed for but we put it into all of the controllers.
  
  
  There is also over current protection going the other way but is
  not a microsecond
  
  timed protection.  Plain old fast or slow ramping up surges like
  we're talking about is easy to
  
  control, normally.
  
  
  Breaker tripping like this is extremely rare, IF it is from this
  kind of current spikes due to
  
  generator startup.   I would suggest to be safe and bring another
  controller up just in case.
  
  
  Might be a bad controller but I just don't know without logging or
  observing it happening
  
  with a scope and a current probe.  I've seen some very strange
  things happen.
  
  
  boB
  
  Sent from my iPhone
  
On Oct 29, 2015, at 4:19 PM,
  "b...@midnitesolar.com" <b...@midnitesolar.com> wrote:
  
  
  Larry, because these MPPT CC's are bi-directional (for
  efficiencies' sake), they can convert a large current
  
  at the battery side to a smaller current at the PV side if not
  adjusted right.  Normally this is just taken
  
  care of and reduced to a bare minimum by the controller
  watching the voltages and currents carefully.
  
  It is technically possible though for things to not work
  exactly correctly.  I am not saying that this is
  
  for sure happening, but it is possible.   The ramping up in
  battery voltage from the chargers should
  
  be plenty slow enough for this not to be a problem but I am
  wildly speculating that this could happen
  
  and cannot rule it out.  There may of course be something else
  completely different happening here
  
  though.
  
  
  If CBI breakers are being used, these are known to be
  extremely fast a

Re: [RE-wrenches] Battery recommendation WAS: Rolls batteries

2015-10-31 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Decisions thus made:
I'll spend about 1/2 of the donated funds on a single string of
high-capacity L16s. Beverly accumulated about $3,100 in pledges of
support. By going this way - smaller capacity at one string rather
than two let the string be the high capacity Surrette S-550s, with
428 claimed A/hr(C/20 rate). The savings lets me (for
now) add a good older 250W array (two Siemens SM55s and two PC4JFs
on a fixed ground mount rack), for roughly a 30-35% increase in PV
input, and still have enough left for some LED bulbs in her home.
Any remainder, she tells me, goes to canine restorative dental
services for one of her dogs.

I think that this will work fine for her. She is already overjoyed.
She asked whether a second string could be added next year. I said
yes, as in going from 4 to 8 batteries in each string we can match
two of the first set and two of the later set, so the resulting two
strings will operate reasonably well balanced. But I also said I
wouldn't add the second string without adding more array, to help
the two strings spend more of their time full with a good charge
rate.

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. This will be my last
post on the thread unless a further issue comes up.
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 10/23/2015 10:51 PM, frenergy wrote:


  
  
  Is the other side of the coin, though, use one string of high
capacity L-16's to: reduce the number of cables and their
connections to terminals (failure points, maintenance), reduce
the watering hassle (half as many cells to check, water, take
SGs), because there are less cells you're more likely to check
SG's, only dropping into the 90% range for the overnight
discharge sounds like she could do with one string, no worries
about fusing a second string.  
   
          I'm not discounting the usefulness of GC batteries,
but I'm not seeing L-16s having a worse track record.  I think
you guys have more experience in that regard than I do.
   
  Bill
  Feather River Solar Electric
   
  
- Original Message - 
From: Allan Sindelar 
To: RE-wrenches

Sent: Friday, October 23,
  2015 5:21 PM
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches]
  Battery recommendation WAS: Rolls batteries


Thanks, esteemed Wrenches,
I'm thinking that she would do fine with 440 A/hr of T105 REs. 
Jay asked about her loads. I emailed her this earlier today:
Beverly,
Back when the batteries were still strong, if you ended a
day's charging at 100%, what would the percentage be when
you awoke the next morning? I'm looking for typical, in
order to address a question about your replacement
batteries. 
  
And she replied "probably in the 90s...I think..." She can live
on nothing if she has to. So it's either two strings of good
golf carts or two strings of non-high-capacity L16s. 

And I like Jerry's suggestion to talk with my battery
distributor.
And I like Jay's suggestion re the box - yes, it was sized for 8
L16s, so it's either L16s or smaller unless we rebuild it.

I too have respect for golf carts - way more respect for golf
carts than for L16s in general. Golf cart batteries have a
greater capacity for absurd abuse then anything else I have ever
seen. I'd give Beverly three strings if the box had room. With
minimal care 5 years is safe, and she's not perfect but she's
pretty good. So at this point (unless Steve Higgins at Surrette
talks me otherwise) I'll go with 8 golf carts and save the rest
for the next set, or for more array.

Thank you!
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
    Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Battery recommendation WAS: Rolls batteries

2015-10-23 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Thanks, esteemed Wrenches,
I'm thinking that she would do fine with 440 A/hr of T105 REs.  Jay
asked about her loads. I emailed her this earlier today:
Beverly,
Back when the batteries were still strong, if you ended a day's
charging at 100%, what would the percentage be when you awoke
the next morning? I'm looking for typical, in order to address a
question about your replacement batteries. 
  
And she replied "probably in the 90s...I think..." She can live on
nothing if she has to. So it's either two strings of good golf carts
or two strings of non-high-capacity L16s. 

And I like Jerry's suggestion to talk with my battery distributor.
And I like Jay's suggestion re the box - yes, it was sized for 8
L16s, so it's either L16s or smaller unless we rebuild it.

I too have respect for golf carts - way more respect for golf carts
than for L16s in general. Golf cart batteries have a greater
capacity for absurd abuse then anything else I have ever seen. I'd
give Beverly three strings if the box had room. With minimal care 5
years is safe, and she's not perfect but she's pretty good. So at
this point (unless Steve Higgins at Surrette talks me otherwise)
I'll go with 8 golf carts and save the rest for the next set, or for
more array.

Thank you!
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
    Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 10/23/2015 8:31 AM, Drake wrote:


  Hi Allan and Jay,
  I second the golf cart battery option. Trojan T-105s seem to be
  the most
  bang for the buck. An 800 W array wouldn't stir up the electrolyte
  sufficiently in an L-16. Maybe the backup generator would. What
  all is
  she running?
  Drake 
  
  At 06:40 PM 10/22/2015, you wrote:
  Hi Allan,

A few questions.
how little energy?  amp hrs night/avg. and
is mx something this person does or would like to do without?

But given what you’ve said, I wouldn’t go with wet cell
industrial as
you’ll never get the C rate you need.  If the  8 x L-16’s have
done her well ( and probably the battery box is set up for that
form
factor) and with your budget I’d go with another set of  L-16’s
flooded or sealed if the budget/want allows. 

And if the need is really quite small, I”d consider golf cart. 
Yea
yea,I hear all the laughs, but where I live, golf carts seem to
have the
life they always have, but L-16’s ( all brands) seem to have a
shorter
and shorter life for reasons I don’t understand. 
jay, peltz power

On Oct 22, 2015, at
  11:19 AM,
  Allan Sindelar
  <al...@sindelarsolar.com
  > wrote:
  
  I have a related question, please. One of my longtime off grid
  clients is
  a single woman who maintains a nonprofit sanctuary for about
  30 rescue
  dogs, both adoptable and not adoptable (curious?
  www.bridgingtheworlds.org
  ). With that many animals, Beverly seldom leaves her remote
  land and her
  support and sustenance comes primarily from donations. Her
  existing
  system is a 18-year-old SW4024/Solar Boost SB50, with 800W of
  old array
  and eight L16s. 
  
  The L16s were takeouts from another job that I figured had
  some life left
  (used for two years in another contractor's Sunny Island GTBB
  system
  without telling the customer that he needed to add water
  regularly). I
  gave them to her at no cost and they lasted three years but
  are now dying
  fast.
  
  At my suggestion she has been running a GoFundMe campaign that
  has raised
  $2900. I have already told her that I'll do the swapout at no
  charge. I
  told her that the choice of her next set of batteries would
  depend on the
  money she raised: we have another 24V set of 820A/hr Rolls
  that I think
  has some life left, or we can afford 8 L16s, or with the most
  generous
  donation total I'll order a set of HUPs and they'll last her
  the rest of
  her life (or maybe not - she's healthy, beautiful and
  independent at 71

Re: [RE-wrenches] Current limiting fuse at battery bank

2015-10-23 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Dan,
That's right about the unprotected DC + main. Trace used the
inverter GJ, so turning off DC loads required turning off the DC to
the inverter - which meant reprogramming it afterward. And it used a
#10 tap pigtail. Stoopid.

If I have several DC loads I have sometimes fed the DC + buss
through a DC Main breaker as you write (I think), then the output is
bussed to the rest of the load breakers. 

I don't understand the self-destruct with PV. Modern MPPT
controllers won't exceed safe voltages. I don't do wind as a rule,
so what is at risk of self-destruction?

On the Class T question, I'm with you. If we accept that a GJ-type
50,000 AIC breaker (per Midnite) is used, and a 10,000A AIC panel
mount or DIN rail CBI breaker will handle battery fault current at
the disconnect, then what exactly would adding a class T
catastrophic fuse accomplish? Seems to me it protects only the
cables and the buss bars in the disconnect enclosure (e.g. E-Panel
or equivalent) ahead of any breakers. By Code it oughtta be in
conduit (sch. 80 in New Mexico) anyway. And the inside of the
disconnect enclosure is for Qualified Personnel only, so we oughtta
know what we're doing in there. 

In all my years I have once seen a class T fuse do its job, when an
an early SW4024 failed internally. But that was in 1995 and the
Boltswitch pull-out was the sole overcurrent protection. It worked
perfectly (can anyone visualize flames in the inverter when I did a
quick test override?).

I guess I'm missing the basic point of why we'd add a class T fuse
on the batteries anyway. I have put class T fuses on each parallel
string of a large battery bank before bussing them together. To me
that makes sense, either in the event of major cell failure or at
end-of-life of the batteries, when one of two or three strings might
be handling all of a big load profile. But in general, isn't the
fuse just redundant to the breakers while adding complexity and more
failure points? 

Unlike you, so far I haven't lost any sleep over this. Max, you say
ALWAYS good practice, but I don't get it. What am I missing?
Thanks, Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 10/23/2015 8:30 AM, Dan Fink wrote:


  Esteemed Wrenches;
This creeps me out too and sometimes causes lack of sleep.
The Midnite Solar power panel install manual shows no OCPD
  on in DC + main from battery bank to power panel. Easy to wire
  the main DC breaker to control those conductors, but then you
  have a "self destruct" switch if system shutdown and restart
  is not done in the proper order, IE PV and wind turbine shut
  down first before battery bank.
For a class T fuse on the battery bank, it's a big $ ordeal
  because it has to be outside the battery box in an enclosure
  per NEC. 
So, recently I've just been making sure the conduit from DC
  battery mains is sound up to the power panel. The only issue I
  can see is mice chewing 2/0 cable inside the battery box --
  which means the box wasn't designed right to exclude rodents,
  or the owner has a lazy cat.
I'd feel much  better if there was an OCPD NEC legal to
  attach right to the main battery DC + and wire from there to
  power panel, but I don't think that exists.

  

  

  
Dan
Fink
  Adjunct
Professor, Ecotech Institute
  IREC
Certified Instructor™ for: 
  ~ PV
Installation Professional
  ~ Small
Wind Installer
  Executive
Director, Buckville Energy
  NABCEP /
IREC / ISPQ Accredited Continuing Education
Providers™
970.672.4342
   
  

  

  
  On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 11:26 PM,
Mbalchowsky <m...@seesolar.com>
wrote:

  
It's ALWAYS good practice to i

Re: [RE-wrenches] off-grid water pump

2015-10-23 Thread Allan Sindelar
Kirk, 
This is on my iPhone and I'm barely literate on it compared to my kids, so 
it'll likely mess up...

Use 3/4" SDR-9 black 140 psi black poly pipe with sleeved compression 
connectors. This has been used for years for hand installation of submersibles, 
down to 250-350'. I would guess that it will probably work in a 3' or larger 
dug well.

Contact me off list if you need more. I have worked with it many times. 
Allan

> On Oct 23, 2015, at 1:52 PM, "Kirk Herander"  wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> I’m replacing an old Solarjack pump with a similar Sunpump in a tiled well 
> about 12’ deep. I’d like to find a flexible water pipe so I can leave enough 
> coiled in the well to pull the pump straight out to dry land without 
> disconnecting.  Standard poly pipe kinks too easy. Thanks.
>  
> Kirk Herander
> Owner|Principal, VT Solar, LLC
> Proven PV provider since 1991
> www.vermontsolarnow.com
> dba Vermont Solar Engineering
> NABCEPTM  2003 Inaugural Certificant
> VT RE Incentive Program Partner
> 802.863.1202
>  
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Battery recommendation WAS: Rolls batteries

2015-10-22 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
I have a related question, please. One of my longtime off grid
clients is a single woman who maintains a nonprofit sanctuary for
about 30 rescue dogs, both adoptable and not adoptable (curious?
www.bridgingtheworlds.org). With that many animals, Beverly seldom
leaves her remote land and her support and sustenance comes
primarily from donations. Her existing system is a 18-year-old
SW4024/Solar Boost SB50, with 800W of old array and eight L16s. 

The L16s were takeouts from another job that I figured had some life
left (used for two years in another contractor's Sunny Island GTBB
system without telling the customer that he needed to add water
regularly). I gave them to her at no cost and they lasted three
years but are now dying fast.

At my suggestion she has been running a GoFundMe campaign that has
raised $2900. I have already told her that I'll do the swapout at no
charge. I told her that the choice of her next set of batteries
would depend on the money she raised: we have another 24V set of
820A/hr Rolls that I think has some life left, or we can afford 8
L16s, or with the most generous donation total I'll order a set of
HUPs and they'll last her the rest of her life (or maybe not - she's
healthy, beautiful and independent at 71 years). 

So, my question: At $3,000 and 24V, what would you sell her? This is
bound to bring varied opinions, but I want to look beyond what I
would select based on price and get other Wrenches' suggestions.
I'll add that while the array is small and old, she lives well on
very little energy, and has a TriMetric and a backup generator. 

Thank you for your opinions.
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 10/22/2015 11:50 AM,
  penobscotso...@midmaine.com wrote:


  As with Tump, we have been using the KS series for over 20 years with
little issue. My own particular caveat is that we have now started to use
Crown as well and are finding them as rugged, easier to move (metal cases
with handles), with built in water miser caps, and a better warranty, and
with great success. I also echo Tumps sentiments with Roy at RAE. We have
been buying from him since our inception in 1988.

Daryl




  
The 5000 series are what we always recommend and install for my off grid
clients. 2 volt cells are the only way we go. Despite what folks believe,
we find it easier to handle the KS series then the L16.
We have been using them for many years and as with ANY manu, they have and
had issues BUT.. we feel w/ proper system sizing, education of the
client & record keeping we have yet to have an issue w/ warrantee claims.
That being said we have had a long relationship W/Jamie Surrette and his
supplier, Roy Early and his crew at RAE Battery,  one of the best
suppliers in our 27+ years.
On Oct 22, 2015, at 11:15 AM, Kristopher Schmid wrote:



  Hi Wrenches,

Anyone using Rolls Surrette batteries?  Happy with them?  Worth the
extra $$$?

Thanks for the feedback,
Kris

--
Shine On!

Kris Schmid
Legacy Solar, LLC
864 Clam Falls Trail
Frederic, WI 54837
www.legacysolar.com
715-653-4295
NABCEP Certified PV Installer
Licensed Wisconsin Master Electrician
BSEE
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  t...@swnl.net   www.SWNL.net
Solarwinds Northernlights
   Serving Mid Coast Maine & Northern California
 207-832-7574   Cl. 610-517-8401
  Blair "TUMP" May
     MAINE'S CHARTER 
  NABCEP"Certified PV Installer"

    MAINE'S CHARTER 
  Trace Xantrex "Certified" Dealer / Installer"





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Re: [RE-wrenches] Current limiting fuse at battery bank

2015-10-22 Thread Allan Sindelar
Tom,
Agree with Ray here. But more than that, if you consider a class T fuse good 
practice, include it. But do no more than offer it when you work on others' 
systems. The homeowner usually won't see the value in the same way that you do, 
it won't affect the system 's performance unless there's a catastrophic 
failure, and you risk being seen as someone they don't know trying to pad a 
sale with added bells and whistles. 

I haven't checked in recent years, but the original Heinemann GJ breakers in 
175 and 250A ratings had 10,000A AIC, which is difficult to achieve with normal 
cable and terminal resistances. Yes, the class T fuse in a Boltswitch pull-out 
disconnect offers better AIC protection than a CB, but the industry went the CB 
route about 15 years ago. 

> On Oct 22, 2015, at 6:46 PM, Ray Walters  wrote:
> 
> I agree installing a fuse at the battery bank is a good idea. However 
> actually doing it right is tough.  Putting the  class T fuse and holder in a 
> battery enclosure with flooded cells is going to cause more trouble than it 
> solves.  I've seen class T fuses oozing green goo out the ends, and the fuse 
> holder contacts get corroded to the point that they are causing significant 
> volt drop.
> If it is installed outside, then you need an enclosure.  Then there is the 
> requirement that fuses be serviceable, requiring disconnects on both sides.  
> The Boltswitch pullout system solves that problem, but then you have to 
> custom fabricate an enclosure for the Boltswitch disconnect.
> End of story, is we aren't usually ever installing that fuse at the battery.  
>  Instead we keep the distance from the DC Load center to the battery as close 
> as possible.  The number one danger is a wrench falling across the battery 
> terminals, and neither the breaker or a class T fuse at the main terminal is 
> going to stop that.  We would need fusing at each exposed positive terminal 
> of each battery to truly protect against short circuits.
> 
> R.Ray Walters
> CTO, Solarray, Inc
> Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
> Licensed Master Electrician
> Solar Design Engineer
> 303 505-8760
> 
>> On 10/22/2015 7:26 PM, Tom Ruscitti wrote:
>> On battery based systems I always install a Class T fuse as close to the 
>> battery bank as possible. 690.71(C) is a little vague in requiring a current 
>> limiting fuse only where the available short-circuit current from the 
>> battery bank exceeds the interrupting ratings of the inverter breaker. 
>> Inverter breakers vary in their interrupting ratings and battery banks are 
>> big current sources when things go wrong, so it's just a sensible best 
>> practice. My question is about service work on systems we didn't install. 
>> We're quoting the second job this year for battery replacement where there 
>> is no current limiting fuse installed. It's always a tough question to judge 
>> what extra work might be required when you touch another contractor's 
>> system, but does anyone have an opinion about recommending or requiring the 
>> installation of a fuse at the battery box as part of the battery replacement?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> - Tom
> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Racking for Steep Roofs

2015-10-15 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Garrison,
I'm here in a campground in the Emerald Triangle with Jeff Spies,
who works for Quick Mount PV, and so I read him your message. He
suggested that you take the engineering specs from UniRac and
IronRidge to the AHJ, showing her pullout and shear capacities and
calculate both for your site, including snow and wind loads. The
maximum applied load should be less than the published working load
rating.

If the AHJ doesn't accept this approach, the next step is to get a
structural engineer to review the same and wet-stamp the result.

This legitimately gets around the manufacturers' certification issue
on an individual case basis.

Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 10/15/2015 1:50 PM, Garrison Riegel
  wrote:


  
  
  
  
Thanks
for the responses.  
 
I
called UniRac and IronRidge who both confirmed they max out
at 45°. 
UniRac said anything over 45°
is considered a wall and requires different testing and
certification.  They said the primary concern is the end
clamp which holds the module by friction only.  Mid clamps
should hold no problem.  They suggested getting an engineer
to stamp a custom bolted end clamp solution and we should be
good.    
 
I’ve
been looking for a good excuse to try Snap n Rack…
 
Thanks,
Garrison
  
 

  
From:
RE-wrenches
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On
  Behalf Of Aram Alexander
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 7:39 PM
To: RE-wrenches
<re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org>
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Racking for Steep
Roofs
  

 

  Pro solar will work just fine.

Aram 


  
On Oct 14, 2015, at 2:56 PM, Jerry Shafer <jerrysgarag...@gmail.com>
wrote:


  
I would suggest calling unirac as it may be a software
  issue that uou are having but they will confirm eitherway
  Jerry

  On Oct 14, 2015 9:25 AM, "Garrison
Riegel" <garri...@solarserviceinc.com>
wrote:
  

  

  

  
Wrenches,
 
Can
anyone recommend a flush mount racking
system for really steep roofs?  I have
two projects coming up on 15/12 (~51°)
and none of the usual manufacturers we
use for flush mounts (IronRidge XR,
Unirac SolarMount, Schletter Solo, DPW
Powerrail) can handle this apparently…at
least according to their design tools
and manuals.
 
Any
advice would be much appreciated.
 
Thanks,
Garrison
  
  

  

 
Garrison
Riegel
PV
Operations Manager | Solar
  Service Inc
[p]
847-677-0950
| garri...@solarserviceinc.com
 
NABCEP
Certified PV Installation Professional™
 
 
 
 
  


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[RE-wrenches] Follow Up to the 5 6V batteries in a 24V string

2015-10-14 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Hey fellow graybeards,
At this point I can offer no follow up on the ten batteries.

The customers canceled the service call. $250 (by their reckoning)
was too much. I had sent them my Rates, which included $250 for a
site visit but T for a service call. They were 70 miles and 1
1/2 hours' drive time away, so I certainly didn't argue. Rather, I
wrote the reply below. I would have charged well more than $250 for
the service call, given the distance.

If I get the chance to learn anything more from this, I'll post it
to the List.
Allan


Hello,
I have canceled Friday's service call. Please call when you are
ready, if you see it as worthwhile. 

Please note that a visit to your home to review and possibly adjust
system settings on previously installed equipment would be a service
call, rather than a fixed-price site visit, and would thus be
charged as such on a time-and-materials basis. As such it may prove
to be more than $250 and a larger investment than you wish to make.


I had hoped to meet you, and to see your successful homegrown
system. I would have asked to measure voltage and specific gravities
of your ten batteries. This would be on my own time and nickel. I
had found your use of paralleled L16 batteries at the positive pole
quite intriguing, as I had never heard of that approach. I had
imagined it as possibly a valuable solution to a problem I had not
seen in my customers' systems, but figured I might have simply
missed. So I posted a description of your approach to a respected
national PV installers' technical forum, to ask what other long-time
installers of off grid systems thought of your approach.

As it turned out, none of the other graybeards had ever heard of
this solution, and several offered sound rationales for why the
details outweighed the potential benefits. If you're curious, let me
know, and I'll send you excerpts of some of their responses.

Thank you,
  Allan
-- 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


Hi Allan,
The $250 consulting trip fee has us pausing.  At
  that rate, I would prefer to bring you up when we have
  everything installed and you can go over it and make sure it
  is all functioning and connected correctly.
So, at this point, we would like to cancel. We will
  contact you again when we have the generator and system ready
  for you to look at.
Thanks, Talia 
  

  

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Re: [RE-wrenches] PV Tracker - Best available?

2015-10-03 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Bill's point is well made, and equally relevant in heating dominated
regions. These typically are northern latitudes, where winter days
are shorter, and mountain regions, where severe winter weather keeps
people indoors, meaning more lights, more indoor activities and more
boiler runtime. The greatest loads occur when the solar resource is
the least and tracking gives the least advantage.

May I suggest that you sell your client on being smarter than his
neighbor with the tracker? Present it well and you could end up with
a more productive array and fewer maintenance headaches.
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 10/3/2015 8:56 PM, William Dorsett
  wrote:


  Tracking not specific to the high Sierras but to Larry's point:  In cooling
dominated regions, the loads are shifted into the later afternoons. Of those
10% winter gains and especially the 40% summer, half is in the morning when
it makes much more sense to put the additional cost that would go to
tracking into fixed West or Southwest facing additional modules. Much less
cost and much higher value.

Bill Dorsett
Manhattan, KS

-Original Message-
From: RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On
Behalf Of Starlight Solar Power Systems
Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2015 2:05 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] PV Tracker - Best available?

Hello Eric,

With the low cost of PV solar modules, I would like to know why anyone would
choose to track the sun? It cost's much more and is a maintenance issue
compared to adding more PV modules to make up the difference. Tracking
winter gain is about 10% and summer about 40%. If there is no space
available for more PV it makes sense if you must have more production.

Larry Crutcher
Starlight Solar Power Systems



On Oct 3, 2015, at 9:49 AM, SunHarvest <e...@harvesthesun.com> wrote:

Given 310# snow load in the Sierras, what are some suggestions for a
superior pole-mounted tracking system? Right now I'm considering DHSolar,
but I'm unfamiliar with the product.

Eric Stikes
GoodSun Solar
A 501(C)(3) CA. Non-profit Corp.
NABCEP PV Pro
001.530.798.3738 (cell)
www.GoodSun.life
[sent via pigeon...or cell phone]
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Five L16s in a 24V string?

2015-10-01 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Jerry,
The five batteries aren't in series. I thought I made that clear,
but maybe not. Two are in parallel at 6V at the positive end, and
then that pair are in series with the remaining three.
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 9/30/2015 10:58 PM, Jerry Shafer
  wrote:


  I have18 on a 48 volt outback system just set the CC
and chargrr up a little. My concern about 5 on a 24 volt is how
deep the batteries really get charged,  7.5 v a battery is 37.5
and thats above the inverter operating range same issue with
nickle iron. There may not be good spec gravity for long life
and capasity.
Jerry
  On Sep 30, 2015 7:44 PM, "Allan Sindelar"
<al...@sindelarsolar.com>
wrote:

   Wrenches, especially the
grizzled ones,
I was referred to a couple for off grid service about 75
miles from here. They have an older homeowner-built 24V
system (that I haven't seen yet) and have lived with it for
decades. They have ten L16s in two parallel strings. I
questioned this when I first heard it, but the owner told me
that the most positive cell is the one that always fails
first, and he hates the effort of periodically rotating his
batteries, so the battery nearest the positive cable has
another L16 in parallel with only this battery. He explained
that he has lived this way for thirty years. I don't yet
know what life they have gotten from their battery sets, but
until recently they lived on 750W of PV, and now have around
1kW - not a large array.

I respectfully replied that in nearly thirty years in the
field, this is the first time I had heard of this approach.
My own experience is that while sometimes I had sometimes
seen marginally more water consumption in the lead positive
cells as they aged, when I had tested for failed cells in
old strings, the failed cells tended to be randomly located,
and not frequently enough at the positive end to suggest a
pattern. I had also long ago read (Surrette's manual?) that
rotating the lead cell is good practice, but unless a system
has a single series string, wired to make this possible,
nobody ever did this rotation, and it didn't appear to make
a noticeable difference in long-term performance.

Has anyone else heard of this approach? Is there validity to
the logic? What can I learn here that I didn't know?
Thank you,
Allan
-- 
  
    Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
505 780-2738 cell

  
 
  

  
  
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Rooftop DC disconnects

2015-09-27 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
Larry,
What relay have you found that can handle battery/inverter current
levels and would have a DC coil that could run off of the Classic's
Aux? Even MDI's mercury contactors only go up to 100A.
Thanks, Allan
 

  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 9/26/2015 4:49 PM, Starlight Solar
  Power Systems wrote:


  
  Hello Howie,
  
  
  I attached it to my email on 9-24-2015. In brief, a
HV relay disconnects the PV array and optional relay disconnects
the battery. Midnite plans to add the arc fault Aux feature.
Here it is again:




I asked Midnite about using the Aux
circuit for control for ground or arc faults. They said this
will (should) be added on the next firmware update. This
means if an arc fault is detected, the Classic will shut
down AND conductors leaving the array would be de-energized
by switching off the HV relay. All automatically. A second
relay could be connected to the battery for total system
shutdown. Should be easy to build a circuit to re-energize
everything after a fault.

  
Wouldn't this automatic method be
better than waiting for someone to throw a switch to shut
things down? You would have to run the low voltage control
wire and perhaps put the relays in an enclosure. A
disconnect switch could be in series for manual shutdown.
What am I missing?
  
  
  

  

  

  

  



  On Sep 26, 2015, at 9:20 AM, Howie
Michaelson <ho...@suncatchervt.com>
wrote:
  
  
Larry,
  Could you possibly sketch out a rough schematic for
  what you are talking about here? It would help me
  understand your suggestion better.
  Thanks, Howie

Howie Michaelson
  NABCEP Certified Solar PV Installer™
Catamount Solar
  Renewable Energy Systems Sales and Service
  VT Solar Electric Incentive Partner
  http://www.CatamountSolar.com
  802-272-0004


  

  

  
  
  
  
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Re: [RE-wrenches] panel failure

2015-09-15 Thread Allan Sindelar
Ron, 
The lack of response may indeed be your answer. I didn't reply because it 
hasn't happened on my watch and I have no idea what would cause what you 
describe. 
Allan

> On Sep 15, 2015, at 8:30 PM, RM You  wrote:
> 
> Just wondering if any esteemed wrenches have an idea what could cause this 
> problem? Customer says nothing unusual happened that he is aware of and the 
> panels had been working fine for many years but now 4 of 6 panels just quit. 
> Doesn’t appear to be a diode failure.
> 
> Ron
> 
>> On Sep 11, 2015, at 4:58 PM, RM You  wrote:
>> 
>> I have a customer who has 6 siemens 48w panels that are 20 years old (hooked 
>> in parallel to a 12v battery). He says that 4 of them have failed in that 
>> there is no output unless he bypasses the diodes. However he pulled the 
>> diodes and checked them on a diode check and separately on a battery with a 
>> light bulb and they appear to be functioning correctly. Any ideas what could 
>> be causing this anomaly?
>> 
>> Ron Young
>> 
> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Battery bank calculator

2015-09-15 Thread Allan Sindelar
David, 
Windy's system sizing spreadsheet was first developed in the 1990s or so, when 
PV was expensive and lead (and copper) were relatively cheap. In those days, 
"one panel per battery" was a standard rule of thumb -but panels were seldom 
more than 55 watts, so 110 watts (6 1/2 A) was about standard for a pair of 
golf carts. That's a C/34 charge rate, max. 

This past spring Windy and I revised that spreadsheet to reflect modern sizing 
and economics. It now works with any module cell count, for example. Contact me 
off list if you'd like a copy. (Be patient for the reply as I'm currently 
traveling.) 

> On Sep 15, 2015, at 6:04 PM, "Dave"  wrote:
> 
> The AEE catalog battery sizing template works well as it allows you to dial 
> back the days of autonomy needed. As I remember the old Dankoff Solar battery 
> sizing method pushed the watt hour size of battery banks to large, and 
> expensive, levels.
>  
> The collective experience of this group, and others, has emphasized designing 
> off grid pv system's where the primary consideration is ample PV array sizing 
> and where the storage battery is sized in the C/10 range. With lower module 
> prices this has been practical for a few years now and it has been 
> demonstrated that smaller watt hour battery banks have proven to be not only 
> cost savers but also perform well for years as they live in a system where 
> they are very likely to be fully charged on a regular basis.
>  
> Even here in northern Vermont where we experience late fall and winter daily 
> peak sun hours in the 1 hr/day average range, designing large battery banks 
> has been frowned on for many years out of my shop. Oversize the pv array and 
> run the generator when needed.
>  
> David Palumbo
> Independent Power LLC
> 462 Solar Way Drive
> Hyde Park, VT 05655
> 802-371-8678 cell
>  
>  
>  
> From: RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On 
> Behalf Of Chris Mason
> Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 5:39 PM
> To: RE-wrenches
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Battery bank calculator
>  
> Homer can do it but it is expensive.
> http://www.homerenergy.com
> 
> On Sep 15, 2015 9:31 AM, "RE Ellison"  wrote:
> I don't think it can be done accurately with a sizing tool i've actually 
> never heard of a tool at least not that I can remember
> 
> There's far too many variables.
> Everything from loads to solar isolation as well as the habits of the 
> individual occupants and the appliance selection in the home
> 
> The old joke used to be calculate what you needed for three days and then 
> double it as far as battery bank size
> 
> Just a few thoughts, batten five dollars will get your cuppa coffee and a lot 
> of convenient stores
> 
> Bob Ellison
> 
> 
> 
> > On Sep 15, 2015, at 9:21 AM, gary easton  wrote:
> >
> > anyone have a suggestion for a battery bank sizing tool?
> >
> > --
> > Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Battery bank calculator

2015-09-15 Thread Allan Sindelar
(Sent accidentally before ready) That offer to send the sizing spreadsheet was 
meant for anyone on the list, not just Dave. 
Allan

> On Sep 15, 2015, at 6:04 PM, "Dave"  wrote:
> 
> The AEE catalog battery sizing template works well as it allows you to dial 
> back the days of autonomy needed. As I remember the old Dankoff Solar battery 
> sizing method pushed the watt hour size of battery banks to large, and 
> expensive, levels.
>  
> The collective experience of this group, and others, has emphasized designing 
> off grid pv system's where the primary consideration is ample PV array sizing 
> and where the storage battery is sized in the C/10 range. With lower module 
> prices this has been practical for a few years now and it has been 
> demonstrated that smaller watt hour battery banks have proven to be not only 
> cost savers but also perform well for years as they live in a system where 
> they are very likely to be fully charged on a regular basis.
>  
> Even here in northern Vermont where we experience late fall and winter daily 
> peak sun hours in the 1 hr/day average range, designing large battery banks 
> has been frowned on for many years out of my shop. Oversize the pv array and 
> run the generator when needed.
>  
> David Palumbo
> Independent Power LLC
> 462 Solar Way Drive
> Hyde Park, VT 05655
> 802-371-8678 cell
>  
>  
>  
> From: RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On 
> Behalf Of Chris Mason
> Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 5:39 PM
> To: RE-wrenches
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Battery bank calculator
>  
> Homer can do it but it is expensive.
> http://www.homerenergy.com
> 
> On Sep 15, 2015 9:31 AM, "RE Ellison"  wrote:
> I don't think it can be done accurately with a sizing tool i've actually 
> never heard of a tool at least not that I can remember
> 
> There's far too many variables.
> Everything from loads to solar isolation as well as the habits of the 
> individual occupants and the appliance selection in the home
> 
> The old joke used to be calculate what you needed for three days and then 
> double it as far as battery bank size
> 
> Just a few thoughts, batten five dollars will get your cuppa coffee and a lot 
> of convenient stores
> 
> Bob Ellison
> 
> 
> 
> > On Sep 15, 2015, at 9:21 AM, gary easton  wrote:
> >
> > anyone have a suggestion for a battery bank sizing tool?
> >
> > --
> > Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Digital Hydrometer

2015-09-01 Thread Allan Sindelar

  
  
William,
OK, I get it, and what you want makes sense. I too checked out the
link. I see that if you do as much battery service as you say,
$2,500 isn't too much to pay. Thanks for explaining.
Allan


  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Allan Sindelar
  al...@sindelarsolar.com
  NABCEP Certified PV
Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive
  Energy,
  Inc.
505 780-2738 cell


 
  

On 8/31/2015 2:45 PM, William Miller
  wrote:


  
  
  
  
Allan:
 
I
know this has come up before on the list, but I was hoping
someone had gained experience since the last time this was
posted.
 
I
am familiar with the optical refractometers.  We order them
by the dozen.  I have taken thousands of readings with
them.  They have distinct difficulties in application:
 
Over
the years we have gained more large battery arrays to
maintain like this
one.  These arrays have lots of cells, up to three strings
at 48 volts nominal.  That is 72 cells.  Testing all of
these cells every month (and we test that often) is very
time consuming.  You have to pull a sample from each
battery, apply the sample, flip the cover carefully so as
not to spray acid, hold the device up to the eye, note the
reading, record the reading on paper, wipe down the
instrument with a shop towel (that has ever-increasing
toxicity), and then prepare another sample.  I don’t like
flipping acid around and putting it near my or my employees
eyes.  The display is hard to read with safety glasses.  The
display has poor resolution.  The sample easily runs off the
glass if you tilt the instrument.  Acid gets on the paper
and then vectors into the office.  The entries have to be
typed into a permanent record.  All considered, a time
consuming and dangerous process.
 
I
was hoping to hear from someone who actually uses one of the
higher end digital
  units.  It appears no one on this list has.
 
William
 
 
 

  
  Lic 773985
  millersolar.com
  805-438-5600

 

  
From:
RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org]
On Behalf Of Allan Sindelar
Sent: Sunday, August 30, 2015 10:29 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Digital Hydrometer
  

 
William,
  Why bother, when a refractometer is cheaper, does a better
  job, self-corrects for temperature, and won't be broken when
  you pull it off of your truck?
  Here's an example, quickly found on eBay, if you're not
  familiar with these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Robinair-75240-Coolant-and-Battery-Refractometer-/131591979786?hash=item1ea37e430a=131591979786=mtr
  
  This has come up before on this list.
  Allan

  Allan
  Sindelar
al...@sindelarsolar.com
NABCEP Certified PV
  Installation Professional
  NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
  New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
  Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
  505 780-2738 cell
   


  On 8/30/2015 5:08 PM, William Miller
wrote:


  Friends:
   
  We
  are maintaining more vented battery systems.  I am
  contemplating purchase of a digital hydrometer.  Does
  anyone have any experience with one of these?
   
  Thanks
  in advance,
   
  William
  Miller

  
  
  
  
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