[Repeater-Builder] Re: Decibel Z-Matcher Replacement Feed-Thru?
If anyone can help out with this feed thru part, I have the same issue and need one as well. Thanks, Travis AA9NV --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, k7icu k7...@... wrote: I have a sick Decibel DB4330 Z-Matcher with a crushed and mangled feed-thru capacitor (looks more like a ceramic non-capacitor feed-thru to me). Anyone know if the original feed-thru part is still available out there? Rough details: 10-32 x 3/8 body; 1 long 15 AWG wire ; ceramic insulator; 0.22 mounting hole; 5/16 flat hex-shaped outside end and a 10-32 nut inside the box. James K7ICU
[Repeater-Builder] Re: [rfamplifiers] Return Loss Bridge Kit
First thing I would say is that if Rick is selling it, assume it works. I run an Eagle unit and would be glad to do comparison testing if someone would like. I have run a number of tests with the Eagle on various pieces of equipment and could repeat some of the same tests with the Amtronix unit. The Eagle unit came in a complete kit for the HP service monitor including cables, precision load and short and two attenuators. http://www.eagle-1st.com/kits.nsf/F221!OpenFrameSet My experience with the Eagle is also tied to the RFT-1000 program / HP service monitor. http://aa9nv.r2i.net/HP8924C.htm The Eagle unit has performed flawlessly on the HP and the IFR service monitors even after traveling between DC and Wisconsin on many trips. Should buy Rick's unit and leave it up North. :) Travis AA9NV --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Don Kupferschmidt dkupf...@... wrote: It would be nice if *someone or many* on the list would be nice to respond to this. There were other discussions in the past about the RLB, but know one ever responded. I'm hoping that others looking on can gain an education. Thanks, Don, KD9PT - Original Message - From: Don Kupferschmidt To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 1:58 PM Subject: Fw: [rfamplifiers] Return Loss Bridge Kit Cross posted to rb list. - Original Message - From: Don Kupferschmidt To: rfamplifi...@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 1:57 PM Subject: Re: [rfamplifiers] Return Loss Bridge Kit Jeff Skipp, There's an EBAY auction right now selling Eagle RF return loss bridges for $489.00. Here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/EAGLE-RLB150X3-RETURN-LOSS-BRIDGE-5MHZ-1300MHZ_W0QQitemZ380211935016QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Analyzers?hash=item588665b728 You know the old saying, you get what you pay for. Just wondering how the Eagle brand stacks up against the one that Amtronix is selling. Also, are there other comparable units out there for less money? Maybe the list members will chime in with ideas. 73, Don, KD9PT - Original Message - From: skipp025 To: rfamplifi...@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 11:18 AM Subject: [rfamplifiers] Return Loss Bridge Kit Group Member Jeff posted this at another location and the info is well worth sharing here. Amtronix (a Test Equipment Repair Facility near Buffalo, NY) is offering a kit form Return Loss Bridge. http://www.amtronix.com/rlb.htm ... and you'll notice the source/reference article/web page. http://www.wetterlin.org/sam/Reflection/Bridge_BalunPlusBeads.pdf I think this is a pretty neat idea/kit. cheers, skipp
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Power Connectors - spectras/GM/Maxtrac/...
Tim, You might like the prices and various units posted here: http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/116/Cables-2-Cond.-Waterproof/1.html For short pigtails I have used the double-ended units and snipped them in half, careful of the wrong colored lead at that point. I have purchased the doubles and singles, they came in quickly and were nice units. Travis AA9NV --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n4...@... wrote: Try tower. www.pl259.com Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry® -Original Message- From: tahrens301 tahr...@... Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:48:54 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Power Connectors - spectras/GM/Maxtrac/... Hi Folks, I'm looking for some power connectors for the above types of radios. I don't need much more than pigtails, as I am doing a special cabling project. I've looked at both Mouser Digikey, but they don't seem to carry anything similar. I have seen 'generic' types before... somewhere! If anybody has some ideas, please let me know. I need about 20 of them. Thanks, Tim
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola Maratrac...
One of my UHF repeaters functioned with a Maratrac transmitter for over a year, very light duty cycle and the wattage was turned down. Well, it eventually went out so I installed a second, the output was set as it came in at about 100 watts, didn't last 3 days. The UHF Maratracs were cooled by three large fans, doesn't matter, they are designed for a light duty cycle. Unless you are sure about the duty cycle and lower wattage output, using a Maratrac wouldn't be recommended. I tried both the RICK and a standard controller, didn't like the rick unit for the interface or the audio. My preference is a small controller like the RC1000 by MCC. The Maratrac is easy to interface as a repeater transmitter if you have the A7 control head. Travis AA9NV --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris WA6ILQ wa6...@... wrote: At 03:11 PM 06/19/09, you wrote: I have a VHF Moto Maratrac and was thinking about using it for a mobile repeater since it is programable. Can I change the relayed SO-239 to a regular SO-239 for recieve and add another SO-239 in the side for Transmit and it work like that. If this will work I am looking at purching several more VHF and UHF Maratrac for a EMCOMM Trailer. Thanks, Grady Evans When you get down to the basics a Maratrac is a Maxtrac with a power amp and a fancy control head. As such it is a single synthesizer radio and will never duplex. It is also a limited duty cycle radio - the heat sink is too small for continuous duty. I suggest you review the basic Maratrac info at http://www.repeater-builder.com/motorola/maratrac/maratrac.html and then (since the receiver and exciter in a Maratrac is a Maxtrac) look at the Maxtrac info at http://www.repeater-builder.com/maxtrac/maxtrac-index.html The Maratrac will function as a repeater transmitter but only in a LOW duty cycle environment (in fact, the manual for the RICK repeater controller box specifically mentions that - but as the M400, which is a Maratrac in Radius drag). Mike WA6ILQ
[Repeater-Builder] Re: E.F Johnson Repeaters
Danny, There is some quoted text from ICM in blue, and pictures, showing which channel elements that ICM will re-crystal here: http://aa9nv.r2i.net/equipment.htm Go to the Johnson repeater section. I sent you my correspondence from ICM direct. Last quote I had was $115.45 each element or $20.95 each crystal if you know someone willing to do the job. Travis AA9NV --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, D. n5...@... wrote: -- Thanks Tony, I will do just that. Thats the best news that i have had on the E.F. Jhohnson machines in a while. Cheers Mate, Danny - In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, tonyn2mft TonyN2MFT@ wrote: Danny ICM rerocked a pair for me last year. Not a problem. They were for the CR1010 from 450 to 444Mhz. From the thread Eric suggested you contact ICM and send them the whole elements. That was exactly what I did and the cost was $168.65 shipped. Turn around time was less than 10 days. Call ICM. They were very helpful. Tony N2MFT
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Astron P/S question
Have you contacted Astron directly? I blew mine up, yup, dangling keys touching one of the transistors and the case will let the smoke out in a hurry...and have an incredible heating effect on the key. º Afterwards, I called Astron and talked to a tech. He was excellent and walked me through various tests on the unit and what were considered probable parts failures along with recommended replacements and upgrades. I did as he suggested and after the parts were installed, he again walked me through a post install test sequence to assure it was working. It does and has worked well ever since with zero issues. The unit is quieter, doesn¡¦t bang so obnoxiously on start up and maintains excellent voltage stability. One of the last posts regarding voltages and some of the others regarding the SCR triggered a recall that this was one of the same areas of discussion I had with the tech about a year ago. May be worth a call, they seemed very nice and accommodating when I called in and may have had calls on what you are trying to remedy. A side note about the common transistors used on many of the Astrons, like the 20 and 50RM¡¦s I have, work great in the Motorola R100 repeater. If your R100 runs warm even without transmitting, power supply fails, or seems to act strange at times, try changing out the two power transistors mounted in the heat sink. Most will slide right out, some have a dab of over zealous solder to remove but the reward is a cold heat sink until it is put to work and even then, at a much reduced heat than before. Travis AA9NV --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n9wys n9...@... wrote: For the learned group here. I know there has been some discussion on one the list regarding Astron Power supplies. Unfortunately, searching hasn't revealed what I am looking for, so I pose my query here and apologize in advance if this was a subject that was discussed at length in the past. I will describe my problem in detail, so forgive me for being so verbose right off the bat; but I figure if I provide a lot of info now, it will avoid a lot of question and answer exchanges later in order to get an understanding of my problem. I have a UHF ham repeater system (TKR-820 as transmitter, MICOR SpectraTAC receiver and comparator, Astron RM-70 Power Supply, and Crescend 150W P/A) that is experiencing issues with the power supply. Seems that when the repeater is on the air for any time (for example, over three minutes key-down) the power supply blows a fuse. The first time this happened, I changed out the P/S with a MICOR supply I had from a 100W continuous duty station. It also blew THAT fuse. The Astron supply that blew the fuse had two bad diodes in the rectifier, so that was repaired. There was nothing found wrong with the Motorola supply, other than the main fuse had blown. I took the PA back to Crescend, but they found nothing wrong with the P/A. The station was put back on the air with the repaired Astron supply. Was on the air for about two weeks, and failed again while I was talking to another ham. Went back to the tower and found the fuse blown again in the supply. I took the PA offline and brought it back to Crescend, told them of the issue with the P/S, and that I needed them to check the PA for problems. Their service tech called me and said he'd had the PA running on his workbench as we spoke, and had it transmitting for about 45 minutes with no problems - all operating within spec (~32A nominal - 38A max draw @ 165W output). After we talked some more, he said he'd leave it run all night. If it was OK, he'd ship it back. I got the PA back the following Tuesday. I put the station back on the air. In the meantime, I spoke with an engineer from Crescend who told me that they had some experience with RF getting into Astron supplies. so when I took the PA back to the tower, I put ferrites on the A+ and ground leads to the P/S from the PA. (There are about 10 wires altogether in the power cable going to the PA - two bundles of three A+, and four Grounds.) I put three ferrites altogether on the DC lines, and made three turns through the ferrites with each bundle. These were installed as close as physically possible to the power supply. I also put one turn on a ferrite for the entire bundle at the PA end. (Couldn't do more than that - was running out of cable length for hook-up.) I replaced the fuse again, and got the station back on the air. Worked for about 45 minutes (or long enough for me to be far enough away from the tower where I couldn't make a return trip that day) and promptly blew the fuse again. (Or so I suspect.) I haven't had a chance to go back to examine the cause of the failure this time - yet. Now - here's the WEIRD part. when I was at the tower with another tech and replaced the fuse the time before the last failure, we
[Repeater-Builder] IFR A-7550 manual
Hello group, I am looking for an Operations manual for an IFR A-7550. Paper, CD or electronic. Service manual would be nice as a second find. Would also consider paying for scanning, copying and postage. Thank you, Travis AA9NV
[Repeater-Builder] WTB GE test set
My first 50MHz Mastr II station has arrived. :) I am looking for a GE test set. Some model numbers are: 4EX8K10, 4EX8K11 but there may be others that are similar, new to tuning GEs. Would prefer to have the cable with the red and black connectors as well. Travis AA9NV
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Rackmount clips/screws
There may be other good sources for some of the hardware needs including screws, nuts and fasteners. I used CopperState while in Flagstaff, AZ. http://www.copperstate.com/ Since then Fastenal has generally been a great option. Even our small town in Wisconsin has one. They usually have a huge variety of standard, metric, steel, plated and stainless items. Worth a phone call to check it out. http://www.fastenal.com/ Travis AA9NV --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Milt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Not a bad idea Bob. The Lowes store nearby has M6x1x10 hex heads at 0.23 each. Other suppliers probably have better pricing. Motorola's pricing looks like 0.15 each. Milt - Original Message - From: Bob M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 11:00 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws I found that it's very easy to use one of the existing M6x1 T30 self-tapping screws to tap any other virgin holes in the rack, then an ordinary M6x1 Phillips-head machine screw can be used in its place. I bought a box of 100 of them from a local hardware company for about $5 and replaced all the missing screws. OK, they're not black, they're not original, and they're not T30, but it's easier to put the new screws into the old holes in the most used locations and just use the Phillips driver from then on. Bob M. == --- On Mon, 8/25/08, Milt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Milt [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, August 25, 2008, 6:38 AM Now Motorola cabinets on the other hand mostly have 1/4 holes for the tinnerman nuts he was talking about... The current Motorola floor mount cabinets how have rack rails that are predrilled for metric screws. The size is M6x1. The screws are a T30 Torx head and are self threading. Based on a quick check of Lowes' pricing for metric hardware it's cheaper to purchase the self threading screw from Motorola. Milt N3LTQ Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Rackmount clips/screws
Doug, The clips are called a variety of names. The ones I purchased, after some research, were called Rack Cage Nut Slide On :) Item number for a hunderd of each: 3303 for the screws with washers, 10-32 by 3/4 black steel The durable little plastic washers protect the equipment and give it a finished look. 9306 for the cage nut, silver/metal colored Both of them are nice quality, not the best but nice and the cost is very reasonable. They look good in the rack, they stay put, they tighten nicely, they are removable and still work. http://www.stayonline.com/rack-cage-nuts.aspx Stay Online 3301 Bramer Drive Raleigh, NC 27604 (919) 510-5464 Ordered items showed up within a few days. This site also has a lot of neat items for cable management, racks, shelves, etc. For me, how I am treated and the quality of merchandise I receive is what warrants being passed on for others to enjoy. 73's group Tnks for being here. Travis AA9NV --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, souryatlexcomincdotnet [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello Everyone, Does anybody have a source for the spring clips and screws for the rackmount cabinet rails. Either type (that was used with the GE and Motorola cabinets) will work. What few I have are used up and needing additional to mount more equipment. 73 and thanks, Doug N4TZD
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola R100
Yes, many R100's have been moved into the ham band. Yes, they need to be retuned. They perform quite well, in my opinion. A service manual will do wonders at this point. They are available on the web, please find one. The transmitter and receiver both need to be retuned. Transmit is easy, just need a good VOM. The receiver is more difficult and would be best with a signal generator although with some ingenuity you could produce some weak signal scenarios that could get the rx close once the helicals are loose. !!!WORDS OF CAUTION!!! !!!BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE HELICALS IN THE RECEIVER!!! Last I checked, the helicals are unavailable and it is easy to ruin them. 1) PATIENCE 2) Use a perfect fitting screwdriver to adjust them 3) PATIENCE 4) Work them carefully until loosened with a steady but firm downward (not too firm)pressure back and forth slowly and steadily Every one that I have done has had tight helicals, especially the well painted ones, usually red. Be patient and work them back and forth until they are movable. Look around on the web. Posts have mentioned the soldering in the PA section not being very good. Thankfully, haven't run into that yet. My own experience has the power supplies going out in a few. First indicator the transistors are going out, HEAT. The black heat sink will be warm even without transmitting. Here is a what we did: replaced the power transistors in the black heat sink with ones for an Astron power supply, still working great. The transistors were for the 20 and 50 amp. Some of the transistors are partially soldered on the back of the pins so don't be surprised if they don't pull out easily. If you have to unsolder things, a digital picture beforehand can save a lot of searching later on. :) After transistor replacement the voltage was very stable and the heat sinks remain relatively cool even with extended transmit times. The repeater works fine stand alone but for Ham use, an IDer or controller would be good. Wiring in a controller is a different issue. An IDoMatic wired into the back board works great. Fits in the case and draws very little power. Hmmm, be careful where you wire things in, especially audio. There is DC voltage on some of the audio lines. The JAUX, if you have one, has a few available audios. I think you don't want deskset audio but don't quote me. Check the voltages on your lines. COS is available at the back board as well. Grey wire in the connector I think. Neat little machine overall. Running 10 watts into Henry amps the 25 watt repeaters barely warm up. We are running ARR preamps tuned to our repeater frequencies with pass cans and BPBR duplexers. We have had zero problems with interference using this configuration. Hope this helps. 73 Travis AA9NV --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, kd7yuw [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have the hacked software to program out of band for the Motorola R100 but wondered if there would be any retuneing to be done once I move it to 444-449 area of the band . Just would like to know if any one has done this and how well the repeater preforms ? Thanks Andy KD7YUW
[Repeater-Builder] Re: 6 meter repeater Identification and help
Group, Thank you very much for the information. A few people contacted me off list and of course, Eric's response helps tremendously. Will start looking for someone, organization or individual, that may be able to help or do the conversion on these units. Have 4 of them. And another two meter unit although not as concerned with it for now. The duplexers, same thing. Also, looking for conversion notes. May have found a manual but will be looking if not. Willing to pay for help, manuals, notes, etc. If anyone has a contact or knows of someone that may have converted or worked on these units before, please let me know. Thank you group, your help is greatly appreciated. Travis AA9NV --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Travis, The Motorola Reference Manual describes the B61LPY-3100DT as a Repeater (RT) Station for the 25-50 MHz band. It is rated as 100 watts continuous duty, with Private-Line squelch and DC remote control. The service manual for the station is 6881003E65 which, unfortunately, is long out of print and not available from Motorola Parts. You may be able to locate that manual on an auction site. Armed with the service manual, you should be able to convert that station's receiver to the 6m band by changing out some capacitors in the front end and local oscillator stages. The transmitter section will take a lot more work, but it can be done with the appropriate tools and test equipment. You might consider contacting a firm that specializes in such conversions for suggestions and cost. Repeater-Builder (the Company) is one such firm. The Sinclair R-103G duplexer is a very good unit, but it will take some serious sheet-metal work to make it perform well in the 6m band. The conversion involves shortening both the outer cylinder and the internal elements, and changing the cable harness. You might consider contacting Sinclair tech support for suggestions, at www.sinctech.com Although they are somewhere around 30 years old, such Motorola stations seem to keep running... 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of travis8303 Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 8:23 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] 6 meter repeater Identification and help Hello group, I have four Motorola repeaters in the 48-49 MHZ range. The fifth is high VHF. 1) Can anyone tell me what they are? 2) Any leads for information or people that might know how to convert the equipment for ham use? The repeater model is B61LPY 3100DT SPL (it looks like) The duplexers are model R-103G Pictures are posted on my site: hteeteep://aa9nv.r2i.net/Repeaters6M.htm hteeteep://aa9nv.r2i.net/Repeaters6M.htm take out the extra ee's :) Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Travis AA9NV
[Repeater-Builder] 6 meter repeater Identification and help
Hello group, I have four Motorola repeaters in the 48-49 MHZ range. The fifth is high VHF. 1) Can anyone tell me what they are? 2) Any leads for information or people that might know how to convert the equipment for ham use? The repeater model is B61LPY 3100DT SPL (it looks like) The duplexers are model R-103G Pictures are posted on my site: hteeteep://aa9nv.r2i.net/Repeaters6M.htm take out the extra ee's :) Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Travis AA9NV
