Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-08 Thread Kevin Custer
wb6dgn wrote:
 There is a process I use to easily see which stage is 
  bad.  Reply if you need more help.

 Maybe you'd consider posting it here?  Always looking for better ways to do 
 things.
 Tom DGN

Verify you have drive to the PA by looking to see how much is coming out 
of it or any filters that follow.  Then take the watt meter and put it 
on the antenna connector and terminate the meter with a suitable load.  
I use a Bird 43 with matching 100 watt dummy load.  I usually start with 
a 10 or 25 watt slug no matter the size of the PA.

If the correct drive is coming from the exciter, make sure the correct 
voltages are present on the stages of the PA.  PNP RF transistors are 
used in the MICOR VHF PA, so put your thinking cap on upside down. 

If you have a hand-held radio, tune it to the frequency of the 
transmitter, and remove the rubber duck and set it off to the side - out 
of arms reach.

Key the defective radio and touch the base of the first transistor in 
the PA with the metal blade of the Motorola MICOR tuning tool.  Watch 
the S-Meter on the hand-held or listen for quieting.  On my Yaesu FT530, 
I normally get about 1/2 scale S-Meter reading on the base of the first 
stage.  Keeping the radio keyed, touch the collector - the S-Meter 
reading should be considerably stronger and quieter.  If not, you might 
have found your problem.

Anyway, continue doing this down through the stages until you find the 
bad one - moving the hand-held radio back away as need to add loss.  
Once you find the stage that has no apparent gain, take a small 
capacitor (a few hundred pF) and trim the leads so you can use it to 
bridge across the base to the collector.  The leads only need to be long 
enough to be able to go across the transistor to couple energy at the 
base to the collector.  If the stage is bad, you will see the PA make 
*some* power  - there will be some indication on the watt meter.  The 
transistor, when bridged shows output power, is likely bad and needs 
replaced.  This method can generically to troubleshoot other makes and 
models of PA's. 

DISCLAIMER:  I have worked on some ill engineered equipment that will go 
spurious and blow up if you touch one of the RF transistor conductors 
with some metallic object.  This has never happened to me with a MICOR 
or MASTR II PA, but has with Spectrum and some other junk.  Do This At 
Your Own Risk!!

In the MICOR, the first or second stages are usually the culprit, unless 
something has taken out the final stages, which should only be replaced 
as a whole, with matched units, if one or more are found to be bad.

Kevin Custer





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-07 Thread skipp025
 Bill jawjabill...@... wrote:
 Apparently no one here got the moto memo on working with 
 giant heat-sinks. 

I never did during my tenure... memo's usually floated in 
well after the fact or damage done... 

 First you only need a 30-40 watt iron to work on them 
 as moto did at the factory  The secret is
 .. raising  the heat-sink to about 3-400 degrees while 
 you are working on what needs to be done. 

We Moto types in the field... never had the luxury of 
all the factory recommended service tools. Half the time 
I was happy the heater or AC actually worked... 

 : PS .. don't touch it with fingers or arms.  This 
 technique also lowers possibility of cracking the 
 ceramics. I usually lay out everything that has to 
 be done in advance with extra planning.  Hey, I didn't 
 say it was going to be quick...
 Bill
 Atlanta

The best way to pre-heat up any PA heat-sink is to place 
it in Taxi Cab Full Duplex Base-Station service in any 
large city. Those of you who have experienced the 
application know exactly what I mean. 

Yeah, watch your fingers... 

cheers, 
s. 



[Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-06 Thread skipp025
 Tom Parker t...@... wrote:
 Why has no one suggested replacing the guts of this beast 
 with a Mitrek PA?

Only if the Mitrek VHF PA is the same animal as some Micor 
PA's are reported to be. 

... and that you can a used Mitrek (with the matching parts) 
as easily as you can find a used Micor parts radio.  Or the 
converse... 

s. 



[Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-06 Thread wb6dgn


There is a process I use to easily see which stage is 
 bad.  Reply if you need more help.

Maybe you'd consider posting it here?  Always looking for better ways to do 
things.
Tom DGN

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Custer kug...@... wrote:

 radi...@... wrote:
 
 
  Sucess!
  I completely cleaned and re tinned my Weller 8100 tip, added some 
  solder, and got heat transfer to pop it up. I was not aware of the 
  fish paper that the wires came thru. Now to troubleshoot the amp. It 
  probably has some blown transistors as well as the cooked caps and 12 
  ohm resistors across some of the finals. We do have a Motorola test 
  set, I have done component level work in the past, but this is out of 
  my league. Kevin, I may take you up on your offer for further help.
  Thanks to all who responded.
  73, Marty
 
 Consider obtaining a used MICOR mobile (usually can be gotten for $5 to 
 $50) having a power amplifier board of the desired size and transplant 
 it onto your heatsink.  The PA assembly for this mobile radio is 
 identical to the one(s) used on the continuous duty MICOR and MSR2000 
 power amplifiers.
 
 Or, just figure out which stage is bad and replace the transistor(s) 
 that have failed.  There is a process I use to easily see which stage is 
 bad.  Reply if you need more help.
 
 Kevin





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-03 Thread wb6dgn


I'm told C4 is much more effective and you need less of it!
T.

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gordon Cooper zl...@... wrote:

Maybe a little Black Powder might be needed?
 
 Gordon ZL1KL
 Tauranga N.Z.





Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-03 Thread wd8chl
On 8/2/2010 11:15 PM, skipp025 wrote:

 ... The entire project including obtaining the parts from
 recycled radios takes me about 4.5 hours with beverage of
 choice and some decent AM Talk-Radio playing at low back-ground
 volume level (no, not the right-wing whack job stuff).

As opposed to the left-wing whack job stuff? ;cD

 Once you've had to do this type of Motorola PA repair, you
 more fully appreciate trying to keep the amplifier happy
 and cool.

Boy, ain't that the truth!!!

My only other comment-it's not absolutely mandatory, but if you can get 
silver solder, use it.


[Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-03 Thread Bill
Apparently no one here got the moto memo on working with giant heat-sinks. 
First you only need a 30-40 watt iron to work on them as moto did at the 
factory  The secret is.. raising  the heat-sink to about 3-400 
degrees while you are working on what needs to be done.  PS .. don't touch 
it with fingers or arms.  This technique also lowers possibility of cracking 
the ceramics. I usually lay out everything that has to be done in advance with 
extra planning.  Hey, I didn't say it was going to be quick...
.
Bill
Atlanta
.
.

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, wd8chl wd8...@... wrote:

 On 8/2/2010 11:15 PM, skipp025 wrote:
 
  ... The entire project including obtaining the parts from
  recycled radios takes me about 4.5 hours with beverage of
  choice and some decent AM Talk-Radio playing at low back-ground
  volume level (no, not the right-wing whack job stuff).
 
 As opposed to the left-wing whack job stuff? ;cD
 
  Once you've had to do this type of Motorola PA repair, you
  more fully appreciate trying to keep the amplifier happy
  and cool.
 
 Boy, ain't that the truth!!!
 
 My only other comment-it's not absolutely mandatory, but if you can get 
 silver solder, use it.





Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-03 Thread Kevin Custer
Bill wrote:
 Apparently no one here got the moto memo on working with giant 
 heat-sinks. First you only need a 30-40 watt iron to work on them as moto 
 did at the factory  The secret is.. raising  the heat-sink to 
 about 3-400 degrees while you are working on what needs to be done.  PS 
 .. don't touch it with fingers or arms.  This technique also lowers 
 possibility of cracking the ceramics. I usually lay out everything that has 
 to be done in advance with extra planning.  Hey, I didn't say it was going to 
 be quick...
 .
 Bill
 Atlanta

The amplifier in question is a MSR2000 VHF, not  UHF - no ceramics to 
worry about - no oven required.

Kevin


[Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-03 Thread skipp025


 The amplifier in question is a MSR2000 VHF, not 
 UHF - no ceramics to worry about - no oven required.
 Kevin

Don't know what you'd really use the Oven for... For 
the VHF PA (like the Micor) I switch from the mondo 
iron to the trusty Weller 550 and 8200 guns. I feel
it's better get on and off a section as quick as 
possible. Weller also makes a decent size iron like 
the WP-60. 

s. 





RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-03 Thread Kevin King
 

 

I use the mass of an old martial-aid size soldering iron, which 
are often passed over by uninformed souls shopping at Ham Flea 
Markets. 

s. 

 

Skipp, you kill me!

 

They used those in sheet metal shops and doing rain gutters. Got one and it
is amazing on touch and ping off it comes!. The solder iron anyway..

 

 





RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-03 Thread Kevin King
Hmmm my comments were lost.

 

Oh well I just commented you kill me Skipp.

 

  _  

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Kevin King
Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 2:54 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty
amp. How?

 

  

 

 

I use the mass of an old martial-aid size soldering iron, which 
are often passed over by uninformed souls shopping at Ham Flea 
Markets. 

s. 





[Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-02 Thread skipp025

  martinfriedman67 radi...@... wrote:
 Our Amateur radio club's Motorola MSR 2000 continuous 
 duty amp needs repair. I cant figure out how to remove 
 the amp board from the heat sink. I removed all screws 
 from corners as well as the transistors. It seems to be 
 held by the center,  just below the tall air variable 
 cap. I tried heating the  solder in the area but, no joy. 
 I don't want to crack the board. The drawings in the 
 manual I found here do not show even the screw holes.
 Thanks in advance, 73, Marty (WB2BEW)

Been there, done that, coffee mug and T-shirt 

It's not easy... I'm doing two MSR-2000 PA's right now 
(just in the door yesterday) and I completed my last MSR 
UHF PA repair a year or two back. 

Everyone has a different technique and mine depends on the 
specific failed stage/parts. 

I use a very large mass soldering iron (better than a gun) to 
quickly get on and off the portions I need to deal with. 

I reflow the solder in most of the anchor places using a 
small amount of new (solder) and lots of quick on/off, well 
spaced long-time to slowly cool down...  between applying 
the iron to repeat locations. 

Then comes a decent amount of quick on/off Solder Wick to 
remove much of the original and added solder, then flat 
blade X-acto knives (and razors) to carefully wedge up the 
securing contact surfaces. 

Sometimes I can and do reflow a bit of solder back into the 
cleaned section during the flat blade lift process as a method 
of quickly transferring heat to a very localized area/spot.  

The key is to get/keep the ceramic substrate as cool as 
possible. The MSR Power Supply pins poke up into the substrate(s) 
... The entire project including obtaining the parts from 
recycled radios takes me about 4.5 hours with beverage of 
choice and some decent AM Talk-Radio playing at low back-ground 
volume level (no, not the right-wing whack job stuff). 

Once you've had to do this type of Motorola PA repair, you 
more fully appreciate trying to keep the amplifier happy 
and cool. 

cheers, 
skipp 



[Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-02 Thread skipp025


 radi...@... wrote:
 OK Kevin,
 I had already tried the desoldering with a really good 
 Pace unit, but the heat did not transfer well. 

Yep, not enough heat available from most solder suckers, irons 
and guns. 

 I will get a buddy to help and use my Weller guns. I have 
 a big 250 watt one here somewhere.
 Marty

The Weller 550D gun is probably the smallest gun you can 
realistically get away with using. 

I use the mass of an old martial-aid size soldering iron, which 
are often passed over by uninformed souls shopping at Ham Flea 
Markets.  

s. 



Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-02 Thread Gordon Cooper
   Maybe a little Black Powder might be needed?

Gordon ZL1KL
Tauranga N.Z.