{S-Scale List} Turnouts and dead frogs
If you're building turnouts where the points are wired with the same polarity as the stock rails and the frog is totally isolated, must an effort be made to route power to the frog or can you get by reliably with a dead frog? DCC is planned, mechanical, push rod type turnout throws will be used, and the shortest loco wheelbase is an SHS SW-1. Can you rely on 8-wheel pickup to power the loco through the dead frog? Is running at low switching speeds in anyway compromised? If a whisker type microswitch to route DCC power to the frog is recommended, any suggestions for source/part number? Thanks. Stan Furmanak Annville, PA [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
{S-Scale List} Re: Turnouts and dead frogs
--- In S-Scale@yahoogroups.com, Furmanak, Stan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: If you're building turnouts where the points are wired with the same polarity as the stock rails and the frog is totally isolated, must an effort be made to route power to the frog or can you get by reliably with a dead frog? DCC is planned, mechanical, push rod type turnout throws will be used, and the shortest loco wheelbase is an SHS SW-1. Can you rely on 8-wheel pickup to power the loco through the dead frog? Is running at low switching speeds in anyway compromised? If a whisker type microswitch to route DCC power to the frog is recommended, any suggestions for source/part number? Thanks. Stan Furmanak Annville, PA _ Stan: As the World's Leading Proponent of Using Converted Atlas Switches in S scale Trackwork, I hope I can give you a satisfactory answer to your questions. Eight-wheel pick-up will, of course, lower the odds of stalling on dead frogs, or anywhere else electrical contact could be open to question. Of course, like anything else where gremlins, etc. are always dreaming up new ways to frustrate reliable operation, there are no guarantees! To power the dead frog, use an SPST micro-switch, such as those sold by Radio Shack, etc. You can mount it (later) under the layout and contro it lvia a linkage made from 1/16 brass tubing extending through the roadbed and .030 steel rod. Drill a hole in the switch throw rod, and bend a U in the steel rod for a smooth fit. At the bottom, end the wire horizontal, and determine how much travel it will need to activate the microswitch. This is where you mount the microswitch. Now, run a wires from the stock rails to the microswitch, then run a wire to the frog. Voila! powered insulated frog and proper polarity to boot. This can go further - insulate the frog from the rail extending from it on the secondary route, i.e., a stub-end yard track, etc., and run another wire from the frog to that rail, and Voila! again, you now have selective control on the yard track. It can get even simpler in the doing, if not the telling. Bob Nicholson [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: {S-Scale List} Turnouts and dead frogs
Dear Stan, When the CJSS built our original 16' module, we had insulated frogs. In those pre-American Models days (pre-NASG standards too), motive power was brass models or Miller switchers. Those without all wheel pickup on occasion would die on the frogs, but all wheel pickup changed all of this and problems with stalling engines are rare. Don PS Furmanak, Stan wrote: If you're building turnouts where the points are wired with the same polarity as the stock rails and the frog is totally isolated, must an effort be made to route power to the frog or can you get by reliably with a dead frog? DCC is planned, mechanical, push rod type turnout throws will be used, and the shortest loco wheelbase is an SHS SW-1. Can you rely on 8-wheel pickup to power the loco through the dead frog? Is running at low switching speeds in anyway compromised? If a whisker type microswitch to route DCC power to the frog is recommended, any suggestions for source/part number? Thanks. Stan Furmanak Annville, PA [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: {S-Scale List} Re: 21th century box car
Excellent work! Show us more! Tell us how you do it? Charlie San Antonio --- G. Elems [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: --- In S-Scale@yahoogroups.com, jpexteam [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: hi, i've post some pictures of my first work of my future S scale layout. This is two wathered boxcars with tags. Regards JP Hi JP, Very nice modeling of modern railroading. The use of telephone poles getting in the way of picture taking makes your pictures look all the more realistic. Is this a diorama or part of a layout? I don't think I'm the only one who would like to see more. Cheers, Greg Elems [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
{S-Scale List} Re: Turnouts and dead frogs
--- In S-Scale@yahoogroups.com, Furmanak, Stan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: If you're building turnouts where the points are wired with the same polarity as the stock rails and the frog is totally isolated, must an effort be made to route power to the frog or can you get by reliably with a dead frog? DCC is planned, mechanical, push rod type turnout throws will be used, and the shortest loco wheelbase is an SHS SW-1. Hi Stan, If all the locos you plan to run have all wheel pick up then they will probably be fine without powered frogs but if some pick up power only on alternate sides of the front and rear trucks( or steam loco and tender) then you may have problems. To increase your chances of success I'd recomend cutting the frog gaps as close to the frog as possible, run a wheel over it and see where the clearance point is for both routes and cut just clear of that. The smaller the frog number the shorter the dead spot will be. You could add slide switches to your pushrod controls to power the frogs. The slide switches can also provide the stops to key the turnout point positions. Another way that is quite simple is to use a toggle switch for the switchstand and use it to throw the points and power the frog, if you can find a photo of Roger Nultons previous Monon layout you can see some of these. There's a new switch controler on the market that provides frog polarity and mechanical point throw from below the table, it is operated from the fascia with a somekind of linkage, I think it's called blue something or other? I haven't seen one in person but they look promising on paper.dave Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
{S-Scale List} Re: Turnouts and dead frogs
Stan et al -- In these days od DCC, it is more important than ever to provide continuous electrical connectivity (continuity) as well as complete elimination of short-circuit opportunities. I strongly recommend powering your frog via contacts on your switch-throw mechanism. Many styles of switch motors (e.g., Tortoise) have built-in electrical contacts to accomplish frog-powering. And Caboose Industries makes a manual ground-throw with a built-in spdt switch. You have already eliminated the short-circuit possibility by grounding each closure rail to its adjacent stock rail. For those out there contemplating this, be sure to use an insulated throw bar so you don't get a chort circuit between the two switch points. Note that you have to alter commercial turnouts to achieve DCC compatibility. Shinohara and Tomalco turnouts must be altered to electrically isolate the points from each other (requiring replacement of the throwbar) and to gap each closure rail between the points and the frog. Failure to make these changes can result in the backs of metal wheels rubbing against the open point rail, causing a short circuit that shuts down your layout. More on this can be found in Ed Loizeaux's excellent book Digital Command Control (Allt om Hobby AB, Sweden; available through the NMRA) as well as yours truly's article series on building DCC-compatible open-frog turnouts in S/Sn3 Modeling Guide, Vol. 8 Nos. 5 6. Dick Karnes Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: {S-Scale List} Re: Turnouts and dead frogs
Dick, Could you explain why DCC needs special short circuit protections? It would seem that the backs of metal wheels could rub against the open point rail on a conventionally powered layout as well. Looks like the probablility of such a short is determined by the wheel sets check gause and the gap between the open point rail and the stock rail it is near, a purely mechanical set of variables, so why the different electrical concern in the case of DCC? Is it because DCC is more short sensitive than a typical DC power pack or is there something else that I'm missing here? I have a couple of Tom's Turnouts that I am about to put into service on my DCC equipped layout, so I'd like to have a better understanding of the issues. Regards... Peter Gagnon --- Paste Note that you have to alter commercial turnouts to achieve DCC compatibility. Shinohara and Tomalco turnouts must be altered to electrically isolate the points from each other (requiring replacement of the throwbar) and to gap each closure rail between the points and the frog. Failure to make these changes can result in the backs of metal wheels rubbing against the open point rail, causing a short circuit that shuts down your layout. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: {S-Scale List} Re: Turnouts and dead frogs
Tomalco switches all have a gap cut in the throwbar so there is no need to
replace it. As far as isolating the frog, we do that for you if requested. Many
DC guys don't want the frog isolated, so I make them both ways.
Tomalco Track
Larry Morton
289 Orchard Circle
Hendersonville, NC 28739
828-694-3858
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.tomalcotrack.com
- Original Message -
From: Richard Karnes
To: S-Scale@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 1:04 PM
Subject: {S-Scale List} Re: Turnouts and dead frogs
Stan et al --
In these days od DCC, it is more important than ever to provide
continuous electrical connectivity (continuity) as well as complete
elimination of short-circuit opportunities. I strongly recommend
powering your frog via contacts on your switch-throw mechanism. Many
styles of switch motors (e.g., Tortoise) have built-in electrical
contacts to accomplish frog-powering. And Caboose Industries makes a
manual ground-throw with a built-in spdt switch.
You have already eliminated the short-circuit possibility by grounding
each closure rail to its adjacent stock rail. For those out there
contemplating this, be sure to use an insulated throw bar so you don't
get a chort circuit between the two switch points.
Note that you have to alter commercial turnouts to achieve DCC
compatibility. Shinohara and Tomalco turnouts must be altered to
electrically isolate the points from each other (requiring replacement
of the throwbar) and to gap each closure rail between the points and the
frog. Failure to make these changes can result in the backs of metal
wheels rubbing against the open point rail, causing a short circuit that
shuts down your layout.
More on this can be found in Ed Loizeaux's excellent book Digital
Command Control (Allt om Hobby AB, Sweden; available through the NMRA)
as well as yours truly's article series on building DCC-compatible
open-frog turnouts in S/Sn3 Modeling Guide, Vol. 8 Nos. 5 6.
Dick Karnes
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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{S-Scale List} VESTIBULES FOR BUDD CARS
I am looking for the rubber enclosed vestibules that fit onto the AM Budd passenger cars. Can anyone point me to place(s) where I can find these? Thanks W. A. Evans Crescent City S Gaugers New Orleans Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
{S-Scale List} Re: Turnouts and dead frogs
--- In S-Scale@yahoogroups.com, Peter Gagnon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Dick, Could you explain why DCC needs special short circuit protections? It would seem that the backs of metal wheels could rub against the open point rail on a conventionally powered layout as well. Looks like the probablility of such a short is determined by the wheel sets check gause and the gap between the open point rail and the stock rail it is near, a purely mechanical set of variables, so why the different electrical concern in the case of DCC? Is it because DCC is more short sensitive than a typical DC power pack or is there something else that I'm missing here? I have a couple of Tom's Turnouts that I am about to put into service on my DCC equipped layout, so I'd like to have a better understanding of the issues. Regards... Peter Gagnon --- Paste Note that you have to alter commercial turnouts to achieve DCC compatibility. Shinohara and Tomalco turnouts must be altered to electrically isolate the points from each other (requiring replacement of the throwbar) and to gap each closure rail between the points and the frog. Failure to make these changes can result in the backs of metal wheels rubbing against the open point rail, causing a short circuit that shuts down your layout. That's because DCC is one of those prime examples of the kind of gigantic headaches you can buy with enough money. If DCC got the same attention in the press that S scale gets, where do you think it would be? Bob Nicholson [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: {S-Scale List} Re: Turnouts and dead frogs
One of the little understood consequences of the power capabilities of the DCC systems is that insuficiently sized layout wiring can impede the DCC system from detecting the short. With too small wiring it will keep pumping electricity thinking that there is only a heavy load because of the resistance of the wire itself. The automotive bulb does essentially the same thing... Bill Winans Prescott Valley, AZ Note that you have to alter commercial turnouts to achieve DCC compatibility. Shinohara and Tomalco turnouts must be altered to electrically isolate the points from each other (requiring replacement of the throwbar) and to gap each closure rail between the points and the frog. Failure to make these changes can result in the backs of metal wheels rubbing against the open point rail, causing a short circuit that shuts down your layout. That's because DCC is one of those prime examples of the kind of gigantic headaches you can buy with enough money. If DCC got the same attention in the press that S scale gets, where do you think it would be? Bob Nicholson ___ I just had some correspondance with another S gauger to the effect that a circuit breaker is not fast enough to protect DCC equipment (Sing to the tune of Heartaches By The Number = Headache number one is when I bought you...) How much money does something that can't survive a momentary short cost, anyway? But for the benefit of all the DCC proponents out there, I am offering an old, old solution to that problem as well. Simply put a 12V auto lamp in series between the power supply and the throttles. In the event of a short, the protection is instantaneous. Bob [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
{S-Scale List} PRS Kit Questions
Hi All: Tonight's project thus far has been getting acquainted with PRS kits. I'm working on an AAR boxcar. Great looking model. Have already noted that they are slightly larger than the AM models boxcar. I assume the PRS proportions are correct? Anyway, I have a couple questions about these kits: Appears all the PRS boxcar kits in my possession have plastic wheelsets. The PRS steel reefers have metal wheelsets. Were earlier kits supplied with plastic wheelsets and later kits metal, or has PRS migrated to plastic wheels? Are metal wheelsets available that will fit the PRS trucks? I'd like to have metal wheelsets on all rolling stock if possible. Also, no doubt these kits will need weight to be added. Recommendations? A cheap source of weights? How much weight? FWIW: After several years of modeling inactivity, re-educating my fingers to do small-piddly modeling has been interesting! For some reason, installing brake shoes on a prototype GP38 doesn't require quite the same finese' that installing a PRS brakeshoe requires! Hope my S scale car knocker's won't look too closely... gonna' have a boxcar running around with a brake shoe missing. That's a Bad Order car for sure! (SSssh! Don't tell anyone!) Andre What? Me A Fumble Fingers? Ming Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: {S-Scale List} PRS Kit Questions
Hi, Andre,
I use North West Short Line wheels on all my cars. They are nickel silver
so are non-magnetic in case you are using Kadee uncouplers. The model that
fits PRS cars is 37767-4 for 33 wheels. I assume your kits were the John
Verser variety. The new ones coming from Des Plaines will come ready to
run. All the older ones I have came with a slice of metal that goes between
the floor layers for weight. Didn't these come with yours?Wally Collins
-Original Message-
From: S-Scale@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Andre Ming
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 8:29 PM
To: S-Scale@yahoogroups.com
Subject: {S-Scale List} PRS Kit Questions
Hi All:
Tonight's project thus far has been getting acquainted with PRS kits. I'm
working on an AAR boxcar. Great looking model. Have already noted that
they are slightly larger than the AM models boxcar. I assume the PRS
proportions are correct? Anyway, I have a couple questions about these
kits:
Appears all the PRS boxcar kits in my possession have plastic wheelsets.
The PRS steel reefers have metal wheelsets. Were earlier kits supplied with
plastic wheelsets and later kits metal, or has PRS migrated to plastic
wheels?
Are metal wheelsets available that will fit the PRS trucks? I'd like to
have metal wheelsets on all rolling stock if possible.
Also, no doubt these kits will need weight to be added. Recommendations? A
cheap source of weights? How much weight?
FWIW: After several years of modeling inactivity, re-educating my fingers to
do small-piddly modeling has been interesting! For some reason, installing
brake shoes on a prototype GP38 doesn't require quite the same finese' that
installing a PRS brakeshoe requires! Hope my S scale car knocker's won't
look too closely... gonna' have a boxcar running around with a brake shoe
missing. That's a Bad Order car for sure! (SSssh! Don't tell anyone!)
Andre What? Me A Fumble Fingers? Ming
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Re: {S-Scale List} PRS Kit Questions
Andre,
I had a great mailbox day as well and received several SHS cars plus a
group of PRS kits. In going through the kits I see what you're talking
about. Some metal wheelsets but mostly plastic...all trucks unsprung.
{:( Looks like we'll both be spilling a little glue (Tenax 7R
solvent in my case) this weekend.
I'll need to visit the NASG or NMRA site for weight recommendations
because I don't remember (It's been 5 years since my last PRS kit)
what S scale cars are suppose to weigh anymore. Maybe one of the
forum members can jump in here and comment.
As far as adding weight I've always used large flat metal washers
contact-cemented to the inside floor over each truck on any O or S
scale boxcar or Reefer I build. Because they're flat with lots of
surface area they never break loose once glued in. Figure out how much
weight you need and go down to your local ACE Hardware store. They
have scales right in the nut/bolt/screw department so you can weight
the washers until you find the ones you need. I've never had to use
more than one washer (half-dollar size) over each truck and once the
roof's attached you can't see the washer even with the doors glued
open.
I'm going to try SHS trucks on my first few PRS kits since they'll add
weight metal wheelsets and they're sprung. I've never been able to
prove sprung trucks track better than unsprung but I sure like the
looks of real springs better.
Enjoy your PRS kit building weekendI will!
Butch H.
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Re: {S-Scale List} PRS Kit Questions
Hi Butch, Fellow Okie! Good for you on the S scale banner day! Your idea of hitting Ace Hardware for big flat washers is excellent! I shall do so at my earliest available time. Looks like we'll both be spilling a little glue (Tenax 7R solvent in my case) this weekend. Good ol' Testor's Liquid for me. Though they quit making the toxic stuff, I found a cache of it some time ago and purchased the whole lot. I'm going to try SHS trucks... I have yet to start purchasing their stuff... but there's quite a bit of their rolling stock that are must haves. I've read some great things about their rollingstock. Ah well, all in good time! Enjoy your PRS kit building weekendI will! Well, tomorrow I've got to go to an annual rules recertification class to be held about 2.5 hrs drive from here. (Railroads are all about rules, you know.) I will be getting up in about 6 hours from now to begin the trip. S... this trip and class on the slate, I doubt I'll get much modeling done tomorrow. Bummer. You have fun building, though! Andre Ming Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: {S-Scale List} PRS Kit Questions
Wally: Thanks for the tip about NWSL wheelsets. I've used their stuff in my HO days. Quality throughout. I didn't realize they also made some S stuff! Oh, and no slice of metal in any of my PRS kits. :-( Andre Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: {S-Scale List} PRS Kit Questions
Andre Ming wrote: Are metal wheelsets available that will fit the PRS trucks? I'd like to have metal wheelsets on all rolling stock if possible. I believe that the metal wheelsets are SHS. Also, no doubt these kits will need weight to be added. Recommendations? A cheap source of weights? How much weight? Lead. You can get scrap lead pretty cheap. Hammer it out flat and then cut it up into squares. Then cut off what you need, weighing it as you go. Use contact cement to glue it in. FWIW: After several years of modeling inactivity, re-educating my fingers to do small-piddly modeling has been interesting! For some reason, installing brake shoes on a prototype GP38 doesn't require quite the same finese' that installing a PRS brakeshoe requires! Hope my S scale car knocker's won't look too closely... gonna' have a boxcar running around with a brake shoe missing. That's a Bad Order car for sure! (SSssh! Don't tell anyone!) Ah yes, those bloody brake shoes. They just don't seem to quite go in easily and then if you press on them and you are on a slight angle, snap goes the mounting tab. I try to ream out the holes in the sideframes with a drill just slightly larger than the hole. Don't ask me which number because I just test fit. I had to actually drill out a 0.020 hole in a couple of them and then fit some 0.020 brass wire to be able to mount them. I am glad that there is someone out there who can share the misery. cheers, Andy Malette Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: {S-Scale List} PRS Kit Questions
From my experience (and I sold 100's of PRS cars) they never came with weights
included.
I DO use NWSL wheel sets in almost all non-SHS cars, and even some of those got
the NWSL wheels designed for them. FYI, I find that the original AM 50 ton
srpung truck with NWSL wheels is the best overall truck for 50's era standard
cars that are 40' or less and not heavy duty. I do like the SHS trucks under
cars that are more heavy duty -- 50 feet and up -- and more than one brass
car has gotten their trucks! Naturally, if I have an SHS car with SHS trucks
that appear correct for the car, I leave them alone. As anyone who has seen
my rolling stock knows, I mix and match!
One last note -- I have tried the new Plastruct liquid styrene cement (white
label) with fantastic results. My use of Tenax has decreased dramatically,
but it is still great for the itty-bitty parts...
Have fun!
Bill Winans
- Original Message -
From: up148
To: S-Scale@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 8:18 PM
Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} PRS Kit Questions
Andre,
I had a great mailbox day as well and received several SHS cars plus a
group of PRS kits. In going through the kits I see what you're talking
about. Some metal wheelsets but mostly plastic...all trucks unsprung.
{:( Looks like we'll both be spilling a little glue (Tenax 7R
solvent in my case) this weekend.
I'll need to visit the NASG or NMRA site for weight recommendations
because I don't remember (It's been 5 years since my last PRS kit)
what S scale cars are suppose to weigh anymore. Maybe one of the
forum members can jump in here and comment.
As far as adding weight I've always used large flat metal washers
contact-cemented to the inside floor over each truck on any O or S
scale boxcar or Reefer I build. Because they're flat with lots of
surface area they never break loose once glued in. Figure out how much
weight you need and go down to your local ACE Hardware store. They
have scales right in the nut/bolt/screw department so you can weight
the washers until you find the ones you need. I've never had to use
more than one washer (half-dollar size) over each truck and once the
roof's attached you can't see the washer even with the doors glued
open.
I'm going to try SHS trucks on my first few PRS kits since they'll add
weight metal wheelsets and they're sprung. I've never been able to
prove sprung trucks track better than unsprung but I sure like the
looks of real springs better.
Enjoy your PRS kit building weekendI will!
Butch H.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: {S-Scale List} PRS Kit Questions
I think we have ALL been miserable about the brake shoes!
Bill Winans
- Original Message -
From: Andrew_Malette
To: Andre Ming ; S-Scale@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 9:00 PM
Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} PRS Kit Questions
Andre Ming wrote:
Are metal wheelsets available that will fit the PRS trucks? I'd
like to have metal wheelsets on all rolling stock if possible.
I believe that the metal wheelsets are SHS.
Also, no doubt these kits will need weight to be added.
Recommendations? A cheap source of weights? How much weight?
Lead. You can get scrap lead pretty cheap. Hammer it out flat and then cut
it up into squares. Then cut off what you need, weighing it as you go. Use
contact cement to glue it in.
FWIW: After several years of modeling inactivity, re-educating my
fingers to do small-piddly modeling has been interesting! For some
reason, installing brake shoes on a prototype GP38 doesn't require
quite the same finese' that installing a PRS brakeshoe requires!
Hope my S scale car knocker's won't look too closely... gonna' have
a boxcar running around with a brake shoe missing. That's a Bad
Order car for sure! (SSssh! Don't tell anyone!)
Ah yes, those bloody brake shoes. They just don't seem to quite go in
easily and then if you press on them and you are on a slight angle, snap
goes the mounting tab.
I try to ream out the holes in the sideframes with a drill just slightly
larger than the hole. Don't ask me which number because I just test fit.
I had to actually drill out a 0.020 hole in a couple of them and then fit
some 0.020 brass wire to be able to mount them.
I am glad that there is someone out there who can share the misery.
cheers,
Andy Malette
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