Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread lres1
Are we lucky or what?

The cost of compost is quite cheap here and as such is not sterilized or
cooked just mixed and left for the worms and nature with some mechanical
help. Good compost most times.

Have used some local and some of my own compost to grow grape vines, 8
vines, of different sorts. The vines are now doing extremely well and have
formed a shade over a walk way. The shade in the last few days has been
decreasing through voluntary addition of some real fat bugs of the multi
legged type nibbling away at my prized grape vines. Never thought that grape
vines would grow here. High humidity, very hot and very wet in the wet
season and very dry in the dry season. However for some reason this is my
first spot of luck with growing grape vines as shade. What such a benefit if
by some freak twist the vines might produce some grapes this will be the
ultimate in my many years of grape sagas. Never ever eaten one of my own
home grown grapes as never seem to be able to have grown them before. I
would like to get rid of the bugs, like compost them or some such. Any one
know of a non chemical way of dislodging such unwelcome lodgers/habitants or
encouraging them to migrate/immigrate to other sources of fattening away
from my precious grape vines?

My Norfolk pines are doing real well on local compost as are many other
plants/trees.

Have had zero luck at this level with radiata pine no matter what soils, I
think this is more due to the heat and humidity changes.

Doug

- Original Message - 
From: robert and benita rabello [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 5:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic


 Chris Lloyd wrote:

 Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I got caught
 out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It was
 supposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked good,
smelt
 good and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to start
adding
 chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got washed out of
it
 but I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year.   Chris
 
 

 I've found that the commercial composts are sterilized with heat to
 kill weed seeds.  This also kills all of the soil fauna, which is
 responsible for fertility.  I made that mistake once, and since then
 I've relied on my own compost.  My trees are happier (though I'm STILL
 have insect and fruit problems) and look far more lush than they have in
 the past.


 robert luis rabello
 The Edge of Justice
 Adventure for Your Mind
 http://www.newadventure.ca

 Ranger Supercharger Project Page
 http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread Chris Lloyd
 If you get rotted horse manure next year (rotted being a word that
covers a host of sins) use it to make compost.

We used to have a nice local farmer who used straw to bed the horses down in 
and he just piled the old bedding up in one long 25 ton heap so the old end 
was about 5 years old. Great for growing tomatoes and full of tasty rabbits 
but this winter the district council said it was an  environmental hazard 
because it was only 50 yards from the highway and had to be cleared away. It 
is getting bloody silly here in the UK these days.   Chris. 


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[Biofuel] Questions about Raw vegetable oil

2006-06-19 Thread Dada Sipri
To all the members of the list,I am new to the list, and new also to the area of biofuels.I hope to receive answers to my following queries.1. How raw vegetable oil (non- edible like Jatropha or Pongamia) can be stored for long time. I heard that these oils cannot be stored for more than a few weeks.2. Is there any simple process to neutralize the raw oils (removal of acids and wax).Thanks and regards,Dada Sipri 
	
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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread Steve Racz
I have to agree here. I kept an organic lawn  for 10 years. I used a mulching 
mower to put the clippings back into the lawn and used  the mower on its 
tallest setting. The rare time I watered (which wasn't often even though I 
lived in Dallas with its 100F avg temps in the summer), I watered deeply - 
but mostly I let the lawn go dormant in the summer. None of the neighbors 
complained and not that I would have cared anyway. In the fall all the leaves 
from the trees went into compost piles and then in the spring or fall or 
whenever it suited, it was sifted through a 1/2 sifter, shovelled into a 
spreader and on it went on top of the grass.

Compost is a great 'fertiliser'. It is slow releasing and is nicely balanced 
in all nutrients. You don't need to water it in and you can never overapply. 
There are no worries from any runoff.

Contrary to some misconceptions about compost - it can never get too hot - the 
heat is from the micro-organisms who are doing the work of breaking the 
organic material down. They thrive on moisture and air and they produce heat 
as a by-product. The more heat, the faster the breakdown.

There is no need to apply heat. The heat is a byproduct, not an input to 
compost.. Blowing hot air through compost, is, well, a lot of hot air.

If anyone is in doubt of the power of compost, try this for a summer project: 
sneak out to a sports field with a spreader full of compost and in huge 
letters, spell out your favorite team's name ( or whatever!) on the pitch and 
then watch what happens for the rest of the season!

Compost is a natural product. As long as the source is organic, home made 
compost is better than anything you would have normally used instead.

Steve




On Monday 19 June 2006 06:11 am, DB wrote:
you don't have to grind compost really fine to spread it on your
lawn...break it down to about 1/2 in particles and rake it in with a wide
rake. I have a one acre lot with lots of grass, orchard and garden. I only
weed the garden and only mow the grass. living in the city means your lawn
needs to be as nice or better than your neighbors, but that is  really just
an ego problem. my lawn looks just fine to me...Your lawn probabily
would look just fine to me too.DB
- Original Message -
From: robert and benita rabello [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 7:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

 JJJN wrote:
Hello folks, any organic lawn experts out there?  I have been
encroaching out  75% of my lawn with food plants  for both wildlife and
humans, but I still have this 25% and living in town  I  need to  keep
it lawn.  the question is how does one raise a great lawn without weed
killers etc?  I have been wondering , can you take compost and grind it
really fine and spread it on the lawn water it in?  Would this be good?

I don't think this is off topic, as it relates directly to the
 mentality of dirt as a growing medium that is so pervasive and lies at
 the root of much difficulty in our society.  I've actually had a lawn
 professional suggest that I rip out my lawn and replace it with
 garden.  You seem to be more successful at growing vegetables than
 grass, he said.

I've aereated my lawn this year and watered with mixture of compost
 tea and organic compost enhancement liquid.  It's much greener and
 healthier than it's been in the past, but this method still smacks of
 replacing chemical fertilizers with non chemical fertilizers.

It's not that I hate grass, but I'm NOT pleased with the monoculture
 mentality that insists it must be of a uniform species.  When we first
 bought this property it was covered in grasses that were long and made a
 lovely sound as the seed heads touseled in the wind.  But now, I keep
 the motley collection of grasses that pass for lawn on my property
 trimmed to 55 millimeters.  If anyone has better ideas for lawn
 maintenance that will not raise the ire of my neighbors (who already
 think I'm weird), please let me know.

 robert luis rabello
 The Edge of Justice
 Adventure for Your Mind
 http://www.newadventure.ca

 Ranger Supercharger Project Page
 http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread Fred Finch
Jim, Instead of ammonia, get a pack of chewing tobacco. Soak it in a gallon of water for a day in the sun. Strain the tobacco out and then add the dish soap. Spray it on the buggies. The nicotine is absorbed into the little critters and they die. The plants don't care either way about the stuff. I do this on the roses that I have. Works great.
Another thing that I have done is grabbed the coffee can of butts that my nieghbor had. He thinks I am nutz anyway but the look on his face when I asked him for them was priceless. I soaked that for a day then strained that. Worked as well as the chewing tobacco and was free. Smelled nasty but did the trick just the same.
fredOn 6/18/06, JJJN [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Robert,I was told that if you take one cup Lemon dish soap and mix with one cuplemon ammonia and spray like you would with a pesticide bottle that youhook on the end of a garden hose.At first I thought the idea sounded
good but then what is in all that stuff? and if it kills the bad guyswhats it doing to the good ones. Have you heard of this? What do youthink?I tested a tiny bit on some catipillers and it sure killed them
and quick, but again that would not be the entire goal if the productscrews up 10 other cycles to do so. I wish I knew more about bugs.Isuppose you may have some luck if you can apply it in a way that was to
the single point missing everything else.Jimrobert and benita rabello wrote:Chris Lloyd wrote:Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I got caught
out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It wassupposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked good, smeltgood and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to start adding
chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got washed out of itbut I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year. ChrisI've found that the commercial composts are sterilized with heat to
kill weed seeds.This also kills all of the soil fauna, which isresponsible for fertility.I made that mistake once, and since thenI've relied on my own compost.My trees are happier (though I'm STILL
have insect and fruit problems) and look far more lush than they have inthe past.robert luis rabelloThe Edge of JusticeAdventure for Your Mind
http://www.newadventure.caRanger Supercharger Project Pagehttp://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/___
Biofuel mailing listBiofuel@sustainablelists.orghttp://sustainablelists.org/mailman/listinfo/biofuel_sustainablelists.org
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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread lres1



Will this kill the bugs busy eating away my 
precious grape vines and shade area without harming the vine. That is used 
tobacco and some soap liquid mixed with water and pump it from a hand sprayer? 
Got sunlight soap here for the dishes, lemon scent even.

Summary.
1/ 1 gallon of water/juice extracted from 
cigarette butts.
2/ 1 cup of liquid soap normally used for 
dishes.
3/Mix, strainand spray on my 
grape vine.
4/ Do not do this in the kitchen with other 
cooks present.

Doug 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Fred 
  Finch 
  To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org 
  
  Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 7:47 PM
  Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off 
  topic
  Jim, Instead of ammonia, get a pack of chewing 
  tobacco. Soak it in a gallon of water for a day in the sun. Strain 
  the tobacco out and then add the dish soap. Spray it on the 
  buggies. The nicotine is absorbed into the little critters and they 
  die. The plants don't care either way about the stuff. I do this 
  on the roses that I have. Works great. Another thing that I have 
  done is grabbed the coffee can of butts that my nieghbor had. He thinks 
  I am nutz anyway but the look on his face when I asked him for them was 
  priceless. I soaked that for a day then strained that. Worked as 
  well as the chewing tobacco and was free. Smelled nasty but did the 
  trick just the same. fred
  On 6/18/06, JJJN 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  wrote: 
  Robert,I 
was told that if you take one cup Lemon dish soap and mix with one 
cuplemon ammonia and spray like you would with a pesticide bottle that 
youhook on the end of a garden hose.At first I thought the 
idea sounded good but then what is in all that stuff? and if it kills 
the bad guyswhats it doing to the good ones. Have you heard of this? 
What do youthink?I tested a tiny bit on some catipillers and 
it sure killed themand quick, but again that would not be the entire 
goal if the productscrews up 10 other cycles to do so. I wish I knew 
more about bugs.Isuppose you may have some luck if you can 
apply it in a way that was tothe single point missing everything 
else.Jimrobert and benita rabello wrote:Chris Lloyd 
wrote:Some compost has virtually no 
ability to fertilise anything, I got caught out this year with 
the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It wassupposed to be 
composted household waste and tree leaves, looked good, 
smeltgood and will probably make a good soil improver but I had 
to start adding chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the 
nutrients got washed out of itbut I'm going back to rotted horse 
manure next year. 
ChrisI've 
found that the commercial composts are sterilized with heat to kill 
weed seeds.This also kills all of the soil fauna, which 
isresponsible for fertility.I made that mistake once, 
and since thenI've relied on my own compost.My trees are 
happier (though I'm STILL have insect and fruit problems) and look 
far more lush than they have inthe 
past.robert luis rabello"The Edge of 
Justice"Adventure for Your Mind 
http://www.newadventure.caRanger Supercharger Project 
Pagehttp://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/___ 
Biofuel mailing listBiofuel@sustainablelists.orghttp://sustainablelists.org/mailman/listinfo/biofuel_sustainablelists.org 
Biofuel at Journey to Forever:http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.htmlSearch 
the combined Biofuel and Biofuels-biz list archives (50,000 messages): 
http://www.mail-archive.com/biofuel@sustainablelists.org/___Biofuel 
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the combined Biofuel and Biofuels-biz list archives (50,000 messages): 
http://www.mail-archive.com/biofuel@sustainablelists.org/
  
  

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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread lres1
Maybe out of line/subject here.

Would like to know where to find the Pros and Cons about Silage as an animal
feed in comparison to dry hay and non processed fodder.

Seems some silage makes for a bad smell once the heap is opened, not savory
at all, and yet cows will eat it okay. How does this compare with dry hay,
licks and molasses. Is this a worm free base? Seems to be full of rotten
grass and nothing but.

As below I can agree for sure some composting materials will reach 80 + Deg
C especially in dry ground pit decomposition, this in turn is used to kill
off some of the bad bugs like parasites and such in some waste disposal
systems where bacterial action causes the heat. Example, the snail shell
type toilets constructed as pit toilets in some parts were designed not only
for the bacteria to break down the occupying mass but was also used to kill
the mosquitoes in the down draft caused by the chimney height through the
long drop hole. (the mosquitoes were killed in the heat of the chimney as it
was blocked with a mosquito screen stopping the poor mozzy from escaping the
cooking.
Doug

- Original Message - 
From: Steve Racz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 6:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic


 I have to agree here. I kept an organic lawn  for 10 years. I used a
mulching
 mower to put the clippings back into the lawn and used  the mower on its
 tallest setting. The rare time I watered (which wasn't often even though I
 lived in Dallas with its 100F avg temps in the summer), I watered deeply -
 but mostly I let the lawn go dormant in the summer. None of the neighbors
 complained and not that I would have cared anyway. In the fall all the
leaves
 from the trees went into compost piles and then in the spring or fall or
 whenever it suited, it was sifted through a 1/2 sifter, shovelled into a
 spreader and on it went on top of the grass.

 Compost is a great 'fertiliser'. It is slow releasing and is nicely
balanced
 in all nutrients. You don't need to water it in and you can never
overapply.
 There are no worries from any runoff.

 Contrary to some misconceptions about compost - it can never get too hot -
the
 heat is from the micro-organisms who are doing the work of breaking the
 organic material down. They thrive on moisture and air and they produce
heat
 as a by-product. The more heat, the faster the breakdown.

 There is no need to apply heat. The heat is a byproduct, not an input to
 compost.. Blowing hot air through compost, is, well, a lot of hot air.

 If anyone is in doubt of the power of compost, try this for a summer
project:
 sneak out to a sports field with a spreader full of compost and in huge
 letters, spell out your favorite team's name ( or whatever!) on the pitch
and
 then watch what happens for the rest of the season!

 Compost is a natural product. As long as the source is organic, home made
 compost is better than anything you would have normally used instead.

 Steve




 On Monday 19 June 2006 06:11 am, DB wrote:
 you don't have to grind compost really fine to spread it on your
 lawn...break it down to about 1/2 in particles and rake it in with a wide
 rake. I have a one acre lot with lots of grass, orchard and garden. I only
 weed the garden and only mow the grass. living in the city means your lawn
 needs to be as nice or better than your neighbors, but that is  really
just
 an ego problem. my lawn looks just fine to me...Your lawn
probabily
 would look just fine to me too.DB
 - Original Message -
 From: robert and benita rabello [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
 Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 7:46 AM
 Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

  JJJN wrote:
 Hello folks, any organic lawn experts out there?  I have been
 encroaching out  75% of my lawn with food plants  for both wildlife and
 humans, but I still have this 25% and living in town  I  need to  keep
 it lawn.  the question is how does one raise a great lawn without weed
 killers etc?  I have been wondering , can you take compost and grind it
 really fine and spread it on the lawn water it in?  Would this be good?
 
 I don't think this is off topic, as it relates directly to the
  mentality of dirt as a growing medium that is so pervasive and lies at
  the root of much difficulty in our society.  I've actually had a lawn
  professional suggest that I rip out my lawn and replace it with
  garden.  You seem to be more successful at growing vegetables than
  grass, he said.
 
 I've aereated my lawn this year and watered with mixture of compost
  tea and organic compost enhancement liquid.  It's much greener and
  healthier than it's been in the past, but this method still smacks of
  replacing chemical fertilizers with non chemical fertilizers.
 
 It's not that I hate grass, but I'm NOT pleased with the monoculture
  mentality that insists it must be of a uniform species.  When we first
  

Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread robert and benita rabello




lres1 wrote:

  
  
  
  Will this kill the bugs busy eating
away my precious grape vines and shade area without harming the vine.
That is used tobacco and some soap liquid mixed with water and pump it
from a hand sprayer? Got sunlight soap here for the dishes, lemon scent
even.
  
  Summary.
  1/ 1 gallon of water/juice
extracted from cigarette butts.
  2/ 1 cup of liquid soap normally
used for dishes.
  3/Mix, strainand spray on my
grape vine.
  4/ Do not do this in the kitchen
with other cooks present.
  
  Doug 


	We have a plant nursery nearby that is run by an old German fellow.  He sprays his trees with soap, which he says kills the bugs and prevents deer from eating his trees.  I tried this technique and it works, BUT, care must be taken because the soap dries out the tree leaves.

	He said to be sure to use soap, not detergent, and he didn't say anything about ammonia.  However, I don't see how ammonia would hurt anything.


robert luis rabello
"The Edge of Justice"
Adventure for Your Mind
http://www.newadventure.ca

Ranger Supercharger Project Page
http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread Keith Addison
Hello Doug

Maybe out of line/subject here.

Why so?

Would like to know where to find the Pros and Cons about Silage as an animal
feed in comparison to dry hay and non processed fodder.

Seems some silage makes for a bad smell once the heap is opened, not savory
at all, and yet cows will eat it okay. How does this compare with dry hay,
licks and molasses. Is this a worm free base? Seems to be full of rotten
grass and nothing but.

It's not rotten, it's fermented. It's usually better feeding value 
than hay, but that's only because hay is usually poorly made, much of 
the value is lost in the drying.

For sound information on this, see Newman Turner (fell text online):
Fertility Farming by Newman Turner
http://journeytoforever.org/farm_library.html#turner1

More information here:
http://www.soilandhealth.org/
Soil and Health Library
Agriculture Library
Sykes, Friend. Humus and the Farmer. London: Faber and Faber Limited, 1946

These two books should answer your questions fully.

Actually silage vs hay is not an either/or, they're complementary, use both.

More resources here:
http://journeytoforever.org/farm_pasture.html
Pasture for small farmers: Journey to Forever

As below I can agree for sure some composting materials will reach 80 + Deg
C especially in dry ground pit decomposition, this in turn is used to kill
off some of the bad bugs like parasites and such in some waste disposal
systems where bacterial action causes the heat.

Any thermophilic compost will kill parasites, as long as it spends 
some time above 55 deg C or so, and as long as all of it goes through 
that heat process (in other words turn it so what was at the edges 
gets heated up the second time). Hotter is better but not essential - 
it won't improve the product much, if at all, just the speed of 
breakdown. We've already bmn through this recently, here:
Re: [Biofuel] Crude Glycerin and Hot Compost
http://snipurl.com/rymc

Best

Keith


Example, the snail shell
type toilets constructed as pit toilets in some parts were designed not only
for the bacteria to break down the occupying mass but was also used to kill
the mosquitoes in the down draft caused by the chimney height through the
long drop hole. (the mosquitoes were killed in the heat of the chimney as it
was blocked with a mosquito screen stopping the poor mozzy from escaping the
cooking.
Doug

- Original Message -
From: Steve Racz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 6:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic


  I have to agree here. I kept an organic lawn  for 10 years. I used a
mulching
  mower to put the clippings back into the lawn and used  the mower on its
  tallest setting. The rare time I watered (which wasn't often even though I
  lived in Dallas with its 100F avg temps in the summer), I watered deeply -
  but mostly I let the lawn go dormant in the summer. None of the neighbors
  complained and not that I would have cared anyway. In the fall all the
leaves
  from the trees went into compost piles and then in the spring or fall or
  whenever it suited, it was sifted through a 1/2 sifter, shovelled into a
  spreader and on it went on top of the grass.
 
  Compost is a great 'fertiliser'. It is slow releasing and is nicely
balanced
  in all nutrients. You don't need to water it in and you can never
overapply.
  There are no worries from any runoff.
 
  Contrary to some misconceptions about compost - it can never get too hot -
the
  heat is from the micro-organisms who are doing the work of breaking the
  organic material down. They thrive on moisture and air and they produce
heat
  as a by-product. The more heat, the faster the breakdown.
 
  There is no need to apply heat. The heat is a byproduct, not an input to
  compost.. Blowing hot air through compost, is, well, a lot of hot air.
 
  If anyone is in doubt of the power of compost, try this for a summer
project:
  sneak out to a sports field with a spreader full of compost and in huge
  letters, spell out your favorite team's name ( or whatever!) on the pitch
and
  then watch what happens for the rest of the season!
 
  Compost is a natural product. As long as the source is organic, home made
  compost is better than anything you would have normally used instead.
 
  Steve
 
 
 
 
  On Monday 19 June 2006 06:11 am, DB wrote:
  you don't have to grind compost really fine to spread it on your
  lawn...break it down to about 1/2 in particles and rake it in with a wide
  rake. I have a one acre lot with lots of grass, orchard and garden. I only
  weed the garden and only mow the grass. living in the city means your lawn
  needs to be as nice or better than your neighbors, but that is  really
just
  an ego problem. my lawn looks just fine to me...Your lawn
probabily
  would look just fine to me too.DB
  - Original Message -
  From: robert and benita rabello [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
  Sent: Sunday, June 

Re: [Biofuel] question regarding versus unreacted oil

2006-06-19 Thread Keith Addison
Hello jdnt

how do you tell the difference between soap and unreacted oil.. we 
are using used beef tallow for our base stock and having problems 
with a third layer forming in our settling tank...we are using the 
two stage base base method any help would be great.

What's the titration of the used beef tallow?

What temperature did you process it at, and what is the temperature 
it settles at?

Best

Keith


thanks,
jdnt


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread Keith Addison
Will this kill the bugs busy eating away my precious grape vines and 
shade area without harming the vine. That is used tobacco and some 
soap liquid mixed with water and pump it from a hand sprayer? Got 
sunlight soap here for the dishes, lemon scent even.

Summary.
1/  1 gallon of water/juice extracted from cigarette butts.
2/  1 cup of liquid soap normally used for dishes.
3/  Mix, strain and spray on my grape vine.
4/  Do not do this in the kitchen with other cooks present.

Doug

Nicotine will kill everything else too, including the bugs that eat 
the bugs eating your grapevines. It won't kill the vines though.

Best

Keith


- Original Message -
From: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Fred Finch
To: mailto:biofuel@sustainablelists.orgbiofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

Jim,

Instead of ammonia, get a pack of chewing tobacco.  Soak it in a 
gallon of water for a day in the sun.  Strain the tobacco out and 
then add the dish soap.  Spray it on the buggies.  The nicotine is 
absorbed into the little critters and they die.  The plants don't 
care either way about the stuff.  I do this on the roses that I 
have.  Works great.

Another thing that I have done is grabbed the coffee can of butts 
that my nieghbor had.  He thinks I am nutz anyway but the look on 
his face when I asked him for them was priceless.  I soaked that for 
a day then strained that.  Worked as well as the chewing tobacco and 
was free.  Smelled nasty but did the trick just the same.

fred

On 6/18/06, JJJN mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Robert,
I was told that if you take one cup Lemon dish soap and mix with one cup
lemon ammonia and spray like you would with a pesticide bottle that you
hook on the end of a garden hose.  At first I thought the idea sounded
good but then what is in all that stuff? and if it kills the bad guys
whats it doing to the good ones. Have you heard of this? What do you
think?  I tested a tiny bit on some catipillers and it sure killed them
and quick, but again that would not be the entire goal if the product
screws up 10 other cycles to do so. I wish I knew more about bugs.  I
suppose you may have some luck if you can apply it in a way that was to
the single point missing everything else.
Jim

robert and benita rabello wrote:

 Chris Lloyd wrote:
 
 
 
 Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I got caught
 out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It was
 supposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked 
good, smelt
 good and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to start adding
 chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got 
washed out of it
 but I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year.   Chris
 
 
 
 
 
 I've found that the commercial composts are sterilized with heat to
 kill weed seeds.  This also kills all of the soil fauna, which is
 responsible for fertility.  I made that mistake once, and since then
 I've relied on my own compost.  My trees are happier (though I'm STILL
 have insect and fruit problems) and look far more lush than they have in
 the past.
 
 
 robert luis rabello
 The Edge of Justice
 Adventure for Your Mind
 http://www.newadventure.ca http://www.newadventure.ca
 
 Ranger Supercharger Project Page
 http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread robert and benita rabello
Keith Addison wrote:

Nicotine will kill everything else too, including the bugs that eat 
the bugs eating your grapevines. It won't kill the vines though.

Best

Keith


  

This is why the whole  pest management approach is fundamentally 
flawed.  Plants should be able to tolerate mild infestation, and a 
system in balance should provide predators to keep the overall pest 
numbers down.  I don't want to kill the wasps and ladybeetles that feed 
on the aphids infesting my plum trees.  I want the trees healthy enough 
to deal with insect pests on their own.

We have fruit on our plum trees for the first time!  (Yeah!)  But 
the ONE pear on our pear tree has fallen off, and the cherry tree has 
produced two cherries this year, one of which also fell off.  The pink 
dogwood I planted for my sweetheart in our front yard looks far 
healthier than ever, and there's a ring of very dark grass around its 
drip line.  That grass sends its side roots into the compost I've put 
beneath the dogwood tree, and as a result, has become the best looking 
grass on my property!

My saintly mother-in-law came over for a visit yesterday and 
commented on how good our yard is looking.  I haven't sprayed any of our 
trees this year because I want to see how well compost treatment works 
to strengthen them.  She thinks we've learned a lot about soil 
remediation, and the evidence can be seen in vigorous growth and blossoming.

Now, if only I could make enough compost to cover the entire lawn . . .

robert luis rabello
The Edge of Justice
Adventure for Your Mind
http://www.newadventure.ca

Ranger Supercharger Project Page
http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/


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Re: [Biofuel] Help needed!

2006-06-19 Thread Thomas Kelly
Charles,
 I think you would get a split, whether your chemicals were pure or 
somewhat contaminated. The problem would be more a matter of achieving a 
complete reaction.
i.e. You would get biodiesel, but it might not pass quality tests.

  I admit to being as perplexed as you

  Is it correct to say that your first problems arose when you 
started using the creamy canola oil?
   (150 L batch and now w. 70L and even 1L batches).

 When I hear creamy oil I think animal fat and/or water buzzed into the 
oil by the impelled in a pump.

 Do you pre-heat it before processing? If so, does it turn clear? You 
mention that the oil turns solid at 10C (50F). This suggests that the oil 
contains some animal fat . from cooking. The canola oil I've used 
remained liquid below 10C.
 How does the color of the oil, after heating, compare to the color of 
the biodiesel you made?  I've made some very dark BD from very dark WVO. 
(see archives: Very Dark Biodiesel, help needed  Oct 20/05) I couldn't see 
the split w/o very bright light.

  Let's just consider one or two things:
1.  You have done several successful test batches using virgin oil and then 
WVO so that you are on solid ground as to the measurements and procedure. In 
fact you have been successful scaling up to 40L. (I assume you used a 
different WVO)

 2. Re: your recent 1 L test batch:
   You cannot see any split even when viewed w. a bright
light?
Remove a sample from the top and a sample from the bottom. (Keep them 
separate.)
Perform a wash test on each sample. Do the samples behave differently 
(from each other) when you perform a wash test on them?

 What did you get for a titration on the oil?

 If all else fails, you may have to go to other sources of WVO. You had 
success up to 40L. You got clear cut splits, BD that washed, and may well 
have passed quality tests. Before frustration overwhelms you it might be a 
good idea to go back to where you were successful. Scale up using the same 
WVO that you were successful with and perform quality test to fine tune your 
process. If this creamy canola still fascinates you, do some 1L. test 
batches with it.
 You mentioned New Zealand; winter on your doorstep. Gotta get you 
making heating fuel. I'm on the other side of the equator  summer's 
heating up.
 Good luck, and let me know how it goes.
 Tom



- Original Message - 
From: Charles List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Help needed!


 Hi Tom

 Thanks for that, I tried 70l at the weekend and end-product still
 black, so I tried a 1l batch, still black!! I am using new KOH and
 new methanol (as I'm scaling up I bought in bulk for the first time)
 so could it be one of these that's the problem? If so, how do I test
 if they're any good? I'm getting some kind of reaction as the black
 product is liquid at zero Celsius, and my oil is solid at 10 degrees,
 but I can't see any split at all and, as I said, the product is very
 very dark brown, almost black!!

 Charles


 On 17/06/2006, at 1:59 AM, Thomas Kelly wrote:

 Charles,
  I think that if you drop back to 80 L you are still making a
 goodly bit
 of fuel. You still may have to tweak the process  ... increase time
 and or
 temp. Get it right there and then go up in 5 or 10L increments,
 testing each
 batch, and again, tweaking, if necessary.
  I went from small test batches and slowly increased volume up
 to 20 -
 25 L batches. I then jumped up to 130L batches.
 When I discovered that the biodiesel wasn't as good as I
 thought, I
 dropped back to 76L (20 gal)batches. After increasing processing
 time and
 then increasing temp to 140F (60C) , I finally began to
 consistently make BD
 that passed the methanol solubility test and did not drop out
 additional
 glycerine when I reprocessed 1L of finished product.
  The limitation on my system seems to be about 91L (24 gal) and is
 probably the volume limit of my pump, a 1 Clearwater pump.
  I still quality test each batch, not just to be sure of the
 fuel, but
 as a maintenance test for the processor and the materials being
 used. Is my
 recovered methanol pure enough? (If I use the first 4 gal I
 recover, the BD
 passes the quality test. When I use the first 6 gallons, little
 buggers show
 up in the methanol sol. test).
  Slow and methodical pays off.
  Best of luck.
  Let me know how it goes,
 Tom



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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread Thomas Kelly
Jim,
 Robert and Keith had a great exchange earlier in the year about 
gardening and composting. It really got me going. I've gone back to 
vegetables/fruits. Flowers had been taking over.
 A neighbor dropped off a load of horse manure just yesterday and 
promised another today. I was out early and prepared a big drum of manure 
tea. The plants love it.
Have no fear about harvesting those Jerusalem artichokes. I've dug up 
whole sections of ground where they grew. I pulled out every tubers I could 
find. A week or two later they were back, and the following year, in full 
force. It was as if I have only thinned them out.
Off topic...???  Talk about soil around here and you get a response, 
huh?
   Tom
- Original Message - 
From: JJJN [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 12:03 AM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic


 Hi Thomas,
 Thanks, I will start putting compost on soon.  Every thing is going well
 except my gourds, they dont seem to like this latitude or something.  My
 jeruselum artichokes are going crazy they are already 4-5 feet tall.  I
 hope we get a late summer as last year they blossomed - a rare thing
 here.  The tubers are exceptional eating.  I went containers with
 Tomatoes and Peppers to save space.  I am just amazed at how responsive
 plants are to real soil.  How are your gardening ventures doing?

 Jim

 Thomas Kelly wrote:

Jim,
 My lawn is in the middle of pasture land, so grasses of one type or
another grow pretty well. I use sifted compost to bring back areas that 
have
been damaged
(after a winter of dogs pee-ing on the grass just out the back door).
 I have two sifters: a large one with 1/2 hardware cloth and a 
 smaller
one w. 1/4  hardware cloth. I sift a large amount of compost w the larger
one, let some of it dry a  day or two. Then I sift the dried siftings 
with
the smaller screen. This finely sifted compost is great for lawns/potting
plants. I use it in trouble areas  - to bring them back. It's much too
valuable to me to use on large areas of lawn.
 How's the garden coming?
  Tom
- Original Message - 
From: JJJN [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: BIO Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 10:46 PM
Subject: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic




Hello folks, any organic lawn experts out there?  I have been
encroaching out  75% of my lawn with food plants  for both wildlife and
humans, but I still have this 25% and living in town  I  need to  keep
it lawn.  the question is how does one raise a great lawn without weed
killers etc?  I have been wondering , can you take compost and grind it
really fine and spread it on the lawn water it in?  Would this be good?

Jim

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 messages):
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[Biofuel] Since we're on the topic, ...Re: Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread Mike Weaver
I live in Virginia and my yard is infested with small red bugs - about 
the size of a lentil.  Any idea what they are?

Or, can someone point to a good resource for looking them up?

robert and benita rabello wrote:

Keith Addison wrote:

  

Nicotine will kill everything else too, including the bugs that eat 
the bugs eating your grapevines. It won't kill the vines though.

Best

Keith


 



This is why the whole  pest management approach is fundamentally 
flawed.  Plants should be able to tolerate mild infestation, and a 
system in balance should provide predators to keep the overall pest 
numbers down.  I don't want to kill the wasps and ladybeetles that feed 
on the aphids infesting my plum trees.  I want the trees healthy enough 
to deal with insect pests on their own.

We have fruit on our plum trees for the first time!  (Yeah!)  But 
the ONE pear on our pear tree has fallen off, and the cherry tree has 
produced two cherries this year, one of which also fell off.  The pink 
dogwood I planted for my sweetheart in our front yard looks far 
healthier than ever, and there's a ring of very dark grass around its 
drip line.  That grass sends its side roots into the compost I've put 
beneath the dogwood tree, and as a result, has become the best looking 
grass on my property!

My saintly mother-in-law came over for a visit yesterday and 
commented on how good our yard is looking.  I haven't sprayed any of our 
trees this year because I want to see how well compost treatment works 
to strengthen them.  She thinks we've learned a lot about soil 
remediation, and the evidence can be seen in vigorous growth and blossoming.

Now, if only I could make enough compost to cover the entire lawn . . .

robert luis rabello
The Edge of Justice
Adventure for Your Mind
http://www.newadventure.ca

Ranger Supercharger Project Page
http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/


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[Biofuel] The solution to Iran Venezuela...

2006-06-19 Thread D. Mindock






  
  
THOUGHT OF THE DAY:

"When someone asked 
Abraham Lincoln, after he was elected president, what he was going to do about 
his enemies, he replied, 'I am going to destroy them. I am going to make them my 
friends.' "
- Abraham 
Lincoln 
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Re: [Biofuel] 90 litre reactor details published.

2006-06-19 Thread Joe Street
Hi Mike;

I taught a course over the weekend at a local organic farm and we built 
one of my 90 litre vacuum processors.  I would have liked to have a CD 
like that to hand out.  I couldn't get into process much as it took the 
whole weekend for us to build a system.  I will teach a second course on 
processing but I think in future I would like to combine build and 
process workshops and I think I can do this if we have the reactor frame 
welded by someone outside the course ahead of time. It would be nice if 
everyone was able to walk away with a CD that contained all the reactor 
building documentation as well as a reference on process. At this point 
I feel like I am running out of steam and I want some of the summer to 
do some flying but even if I was to sit down and write something out 
myself it would still end up being a regurgitation of all the wisdom I 
have garnered here and on J2F.  Not direct plagiarism perhaps but on the 
other hand I don't have the hart at the moment to sit down and start 
writing. I need to sky out for a while. If anyone on the list is 
interested in compiling something for free distribution, it would be 
great and I'd like to know about it.

Joe

Mike Weaver wrote:

 In all seriousness, I wonder if we could just offer a cheap CD or PDF of 
 open source plans on Ebay for 2.00 or 3.00 dollars.
 I personally buy free software on CD for 5-7 dollars just because it's 
 easy and saves me money and time.  I don't begrudge someone charging a 
 nominal fee to download, burn a CD, and package it it with 
 documentation.  I am willing to pay for the convenience.  What is wrong 
 is passing of JtF stuff as your own, and charging a fortune for it.  The 
 key is that you can't charge for the info, just the CD and printing.  
 Have a look at http://www.cheapbytes.com/
 
 I made my own BD notebook of info from all over the 'net - some JtF, 
 some other places.  Whatever made sense.  I wouldn't sell it, though.
 people can copy it for free.
 
 -Weaver
 
 raymond greeley wrote:
 
 
Hello, i believe you can offer multiple instructions at a determined price 
on ebay, i have seen things this way. where is your teachingfacility. i 
would be interested assuming i would need to travel.
I will review the online plans before i write back. I am in chicago and did 
have several travel plans
scheduled this summer and might be able to include a stop to visiit your 
work. I have people here that woudl be interested in doing a cooperative 
reactor in chicago.
are you doing any diesel auto adaption for wvo.
thanks, ray


 


From: Joe Street [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] 90 litre reactor details published.
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 14:30:14 -0400

I don't know anything about ebay or how it works.  Could I auction it to
the lowest bidder?

;)
Joe

Mike Weaver wrote:

   


You could post a copy of the plans on Ebay but offer it for a penny.
That would put a stop to the ripoffs.

Joe Street wrote:


 


Hello everyone;

I have finally published the details and construction manual for the 90
litre version of my system which I have upscaled from the 30 litre
prototype. All info is copylefted of course but I hope people will check
it out and give me some feedback. If anyone on this list ever notices my
work being sold anywhere (like ebay) please let me know so I can take
action. Here is the link:

http://www.nonprofitfuel.ca/90%20Liter%20Reactor%20build%20manual.pdf

This is the system we are going to use in our local cooperative. I am
teaching a course this weekend based on this system.  15 students are
registered.  I hope it goes well.

Joe


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread Doug Turner



Hi 
Doug,

I've 
used amixture of soap and isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) with good 
results. This mixture is a contact poison that only works while wet. 
That means you actually have to get the spray on to the beasties and repeated 
applications are usually necessary.I would suggest is that you 
reduce the liquid soap to about 1 to 2 tbsp (15 - 30ml) and add 1 cup 
ofalcohol - don't know if methanol will work. The alcohol helps to 
get rid of the hard bodied bugs;you know, the ones that work out 
regularly. Good Luck

 Doug

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of 
  lres1Sent: June 19, 2006 9:27 AMTo: 
  Biofuel@sustainablelists.orgSubject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question 
  off topic
  Will this kill the bugs busy eating away my 
  precious grape vines and shade area without harming the vine. That is used 
  tobacco and some soap liquid mixed with water and pump it from a hand sprayer? 
  Got sunlight soap here for the dishes, lemon scent even.
  
  Summary.
  1/ 1 gallon of water/juice extracted from 
  cigarette butts.
  2/ 1 cup of liquid soap normally used for 
  dishes.
  3/Mix, strainand spray on my 
  grape vine.
  4/ Do not do this in the kitchen with other 
  cooks present.
  
  Doug 
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Fred 
Finch 
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org 

Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 7:47 
PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question 
off topic
Jim, Instead of ammonia, get a pack of chewing 
tobacco. Soak it in a gallon of water for a day in the sun. 
Strain the tobacco out and then add the dish soap. Spray it on the 
buggies. The nicotine is absorbed into the little critters and they 
die. The plants don't care either way about the stuff. I do this 
on the roses that I have. Works great. Another thing that I 
have done is grabbed the coffee can of butts that my nieghbor had. He 
thinks I am nutz anyway but the look on his face when I asked him for them 
was priceless. I soaked that for a day then strained that. 
Worked as well as the chewing tobacco and was free. Smelled nasty but 
did the trick just the same. fred
On 6/18/06, JJJN 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote: 
Robert,I 
  was told that if you take one cup Lemon dish soap and mix with one 
  cuplemon ammonia and spray like you would with a pesticide bottle that 
  youhook on the end of a garden hose.At first I thought the 
  idea sounded good but then what is in all that stuff? and if it kills 
  the bad guyswhats it doing to the good ones. Have you heard of this? 
  What do youthink?I tested a tiny bit on some catipillers 
  and it sure killed themand quick, but again that would not be the 
  entire goal if the productscrews up 10 other cycles to do so. I wish I 
  knew more about bugs.Isuppose you may have some luck if 
  you can apply it in a way that was tothe single point missing 
  everything else.Jimrobert and benita rabello 
  wrote:Chris Lloyd 
  wrote:Some compost has virtually no 
  ability to fertilise anything, I got caught out this year with 
  the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It wassupposed to 
  be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked good, 
  smeltgood and will probably make a good soil improver but I 
  had to start adding chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps 
  the nutrients got washed out of itbut I'm going back to rotted 
  horse manure next year. 
  ChrisI've 
  found that the commercial composts are sterilized with heat to 
  kill weed seeds.This also kills all of the soil fauna, 
  which isresponsible for fertility.I made that mistake 
  once, and since thenI've relied on my own compost.My 
  trees are happier (though I'm STILL have insect and fruit 
  problems) and look far more lush than they have inthe 
  past.robert luis rabello"The Edge of 
  Justice"Adventure for Your Mind 
  http://www.newadventure.caRanger Supercharger Project 
  Pagehttp://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/___ 
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Re: [Biofuel] Since we're on the topic, ...Re: Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread Paul S Cantrell
Mike,
Sounds like 'Red Bugs' or Chiggers to me.  We have those here in
South Carolina, too.

Google either for many results.

Red bug bites itch worse than flea or mosquito (skeeter) bites.  They
are a mite.

This site has a picture:
http://www.enature.com/fieldguides/detail.asp?fotogID=606curPageNum=16recnum=IS0151

Also, http://beaufortusa.com/chigger.htm

Is that it?

On 6/19/06, Mike Weaver [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I live in Virginia and my yard is infested with small red bugs - about
 the size of a lentil.  Any idea what they are?

 Or, can someone point to a good resource for looking them up?




-- 
Thanks,
PC

He's the kind of a guy who lights up a room just by flicking a switch

We don't know a millionth of one percent about anything. - Thomas A Edison

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Re: [Biofuel] Since we're on the topic, ...Re: Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread Mike Weaver
Hi Paul,

I come from chigger country and these guys are bigger. Believe me, I 
know a chigger!  Are there more than one kind of chigger?

-Mike

Paul S Cantrell wrote:

Mike,
Sounds like 'Red Bugs' or Chiggers to me.  We have those here in
South Carolina, too.

Google either for many results.

Red bug bites itch worse than flea or mosquito (skeeter) bites.  They
are a mite.

This site has a picture:
http://www.enature.com/fieldguides/detail.asp?fotogID=606curPageNum=16recnum=IS0151

Also, http://beaufortusa.com/chigger.htm

Is that it?

On 6/19/06, Mike Weaver [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  

I live in Virginia and my yard is infested with small red bugs - about
the size of a lentil.  Any idea what they are?

Or, can someone point to a good resource for looking them up?






  



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[Biofuel] Al Gore interview

2006-06-19 Thread mark manchester
Ha-HAH!  Same post, new title.  This is a fantastic interview, guys, to
which there has been no response at all~!  Read!  Or else let's talk about
our lawns.  (Lawns are important too, don't get all biofuelly on me..)

Al Gore interview, last month, about his global warming platform and movie.
I missed it, maybe you did too.  Jesse

http://www.macleans.ca/culture/films/article.jsp?content=20060522_127258_127
258


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Re: [Biofuel] Since we're on the topic, ...Re: Lawn question off topic

2006-06-19 Thread bob allen
Howdy Mike, I agree.  I have lived most of my life in chigger country, 
Oklahoma and Arkansas, and the chiggers here are essentially invisible.  
nothing but nothing itches more or lasts as long as a chigger bite, 
which are invariably in embarassing locations on ones body.   It is the 
larval form of the chiger which bites people.

http://insects.tamu.edu/extension/bulletins/L-1223.html


Mike Weaver wrote:
 Hi Paul,

 I come from chigger country and these guys are bigger. Believe me, I 
 know a chigger!  Are there more than one kind of chigger?

 -Mike

 Paul S Cantrell wrote:

   
 Mike,
 Sounds like 'Red Bugs' or Chiggers to me.  We have those here in
 South Carolina, too.

 Google either for many results.

 Red bug bites itch worse than flea or mosquito (skeeter) bites.  They
 are a mite.

 This site has a picture:
 http://www.enature.com/fieldguides/detail.asp?fotogID=606curPageNum=16recnum=IS0151

 Also, http://beaufortusa.com/chigger.htm

 Is that it?

 On 6/19/06, Mike Weaver [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  

 
 I live in Virginia and my yard is infested with small red bugs - about
 the size of a lentil.  Any idea what they are?

 Or, can someone point to a good resource for looking them up?




   
  

 


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Re: [Biofuel] Help needed!

2006-06-19 Thread Charles List
Hi Tom

Right, feel I'm making some progress. After a very cold night (-6C) I  
can now see three layers in my 1l test batch of creamy canola if I  
shine a light behind it. Bottom layer (20%) is solid and dark redy- 
brown (glycerine I hope) then thin layer (5%) what looks like  
unreacted oil, then rest is dark brown bio.  It passes the wash  
test and the third wash leaves clean water underneath and brown bio  
on top. The bio also leaves about 20-30% residue in the methanol test.

So, from this, if I assume my KOH is at fault (Occum's razor) then is  
there an easy way I can tell how much more KOH to add to compensate?

In answer to your questions, the pre-treated oil turns very dark  
brown, almost black on heating past 25 degrees C and it titrates at  
3.6ml (I use KOH for the titration too).

My supply of normal canola has dried up as the restaurant owner has  
sold up and it is changing into an Indian take-away- so creamy canola  
is all I have to work with!!

Best

Charles



On 20/06/2006, at 4:25 AM, Thomas Kelly wrote:

 Charles,
  I think you would get a split, whether your chemicals were  
 pure or
 somewhat contaminated. The problem would be more a matter of  
 achieving a
 complete reaction.
 i.e. You would get biodiesel, but it might not pass quality tests.

   I admit to being as perplexed as you

   Is it correct to say that your first problems arose when you
 started using the creamy canola oil?
(150 L batch and now w. 70L and even 1L batches).

  When I hear creamy oil I think animal fat and/or water buzzed  
 into the
 oil by the impelled in a pump.

  Do you pre-heat it before processing? If so, does it turn  
 clear? You
 mention that the oil turns solid at 10C (50F). This suggests that  
 the oil
 contains some animal fat . from cooking. The canola oil I've used
 remained liquid below 10C.
  How does the color of the oil, after heating, compare to the  
 color of
 the biodiesel you made?  I've made some very dark BD from very  
 dark WVO.
 (see archives: Very Dark Biodiesel, help needed  Oct 20/05) I  
 couldn't see
 the split w/o very bright light.

   Let's just consider one or two things:
 1.  You have done several successful test batches using virgin oil  
 and then
 WVO so that you are on solid ground as to the measurements and  
 procedure. In
 fact you have been successful scaling up to 40L. (I assume you used a
 different WVO)

  2. Re: your recent 1 L test batch:
You cannot see any split even when viewed w. a bright
 light?
 Remove a sample from the top and a sample from the bottom.  
 (Keep them
 separate.)
 Perform a wash test on each sample. Do the samples behave  
 differently
 (from each other) when you perform a wash test on them?

  What did you get for a titration on the oil?

  If all else fails, you may have to go to other sources of WVO.  
 You had
 success up to 40L. You got clear cut splits, BD that washed, and  
 may well
 have passed quality tests. Before frustration overwhelms you it  
 might be a
 good idea to go back to where you were successful. Scale up using  
 the same
 WVO that you were successful with and perform quality test to fine  
 tune your
 process. If this creamy canola still fascinates you, do some 1L.  
 test
 batches with it.
  You mentioned New Zealand; winter on your doorstep. Gotta get you
 making heating fuel. I'm on the other side of the equator   
 summer's
 heating up.
  Good luck, and let me know how it goes.
  Tom



 - Original Message -
 From: Charles List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
 Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 4:29 PM
 Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Help needed!


 Hi Tom

 Thanks for that, I tried 70l at the weekend and end-product still
 black, so I tried a 1l batch, still black!! I am using new KOH and
 new methanol (as I'm scaling up I bought in bulk for the first time)
 so could it be one of these that's the problem? If so, how do I test
 if they're any good? I'm getting some kind of reaction as the black
 product is liquid at zero Celsius, and my oil is solid at 10 degrees,
 but I can't see any split at all and, as I said, the product is very
 very dark brown, almost black!!

 Charles


 On 17/06/2006, at 1:59 AM, Thomas Kelly wrote:

 Charles,
  I think that if you drop back to 80 L you are still making a
 goodly bit
 of fuel. You still may have to tweak the process  ... increase time
 and or
 temp. Get it right there and then go up in 5 or 10L increments,
 testing each
 batch, and again, tweaking, if necessary.
  I went from small test batches and slowly increased volume up
 to 20 -
 25 L batches. I then jumped up to 130L batches.
 When I discovered that the biodiesel wasn't as good as I
 thought, I
 dropped back to 76L (20 gal)batches. After increasing processing
 time and
 then increasing temp to 140F (60C) , I finally began to
 consistently make BD
 

[Biofuel] Freakonomics

2006-06-19 Thread Darryl McMahon
There is an oblique reference to this in the archives.  I have just 
finished reading the book, and recommend that people put it on their 
reading lists.  (No time like the present to get on your public 
library's waiting list.)

I thoroughly enjoyed the book, even learned a thing or two.  I was aware 
of the gun-related items, but I had not previously made the crime rate 
drop connection in the U.S. with Roe vs. Wade.  I passed the book to my 
16-year-old son.  His impression was also favourable.

Nice piece of de-spinning work.  So many more subjects need more such 
treatment.

 From the epilogue:
But the fact of the matter is that iFreakonomics/i-style thinking 
simply doesn't traffic in morality.  As we suggested near the beginning 
of this book, if morality represents an ideal world, then economics 
represents the actual world.
The most likely result of having read this book is a simple one: you 
may find yourself asking a lot of questions.  Many of them will lead to 
nothing.  But some will produce answers that are interesting, even 
surprising.

-- 
Darryl McMahon  http://www.econogics.com
It's your planet.  If you won't look after it, who will?


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Re: [Biofuel] Freakonomics

2006-06-19 Thread robert and benita rabello
Darryl McMahon wrote:

There is an oblique reference to this in the archives.  I have just 
finished reading the book, and recommend that people put it on their 
reading lists.  (No time like the present to get on your public 
library's waiting list.)
  


Yes, I think I'm the one who referenced it.  This is one of my 
stockbroker sister's favorite books.

I thoroughly enjoyed the book, even learned a thing or two.  I was aware 
of the gun-related items, but I had not previously made the crime rate 
drop connection in the U.S. with Roe vs. Wade. 


The causal relationships the author mentions are tangential, at 
best.  I'm sure a correlation can be made with the drop in crime rate 
versus GDP too.  In fact, I'll bet you could correlate a drop in crime 
rate with the introduction of Viagra . . .

Nice piece of de-spinning work.  So many more subjects need more such 
treatment.
  


It's a great book for NeoCons.

 From the epilogue:
But the fact of the matter is that iFreakonomics/i-style thinking 
simply doesn't traffic in morality.  As we suggested near the beginning 
of this book, if morality represents an ideal world, then economics 
represents the actual world.
  


If only we had reliable numbers . . .  If only we could tabulate how 
much it REALLY costs to rape the environment, destroy human life and 
elevate the welfare of the wealthy over the welfare of the poor.  At its 
core, morality IS economics, but the paradigm is upside down.

The most likely result of having read this book is a simple one: you 
may find yourself asking a lot of questions.  Many of them will lead to 
nothing.  But some will produce answers that are interesting, even 
surprising.
  


Or entirely stupid.  Take your pick!

Sorry Darryl, but I'm simply NOT impressed . . .

 
robert luis rabello
The Edge of Justice
Adventure for Your Mind
http://www.newadventure.ca

Ranger Supercharger Project Page
http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/


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