Re: [Biofuel] Piedmont Biofuels

2005-10-20 Thread Joe . Guthrie

I was wondering if there has been any
research by you folks or others as to the emissions of SVO vs dyno vs biodiesel.
My 79 MBZ burns fairly clean on 65% VO/35 dyno, but I feel it still
smells more than it should and much more than a modern gasoline car. ___
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Re: [Biofuel] alternative biodiesel process

2005-09-29 Thread Joe . Guthrie

Hi to all,

I was thinking that the most important
thing in the business of electrically catalizing a reaction is the current
flowing through a given area of chemical. If this reaction is as
fast as mentioned in the patent, then a larger area with closer spacing
between anode and cathode and lower voltages should be tried first, before
going to potentially lethal voltages. I hope to do some experiments
with this process to. I will be looking forward to your results,
Joe.






Joe Street [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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   Re: [Biofuel] alternative biodiesel
process

Hi All;

Just an update. I now have a variable 0-4Kv DC power supply capable
of 
delivering 350 mA current. Now on to the electrode holder. :-)

Joe


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Re: [Biofuel] Biodiesel, smoking exhausts and fuelling volume levels.

2005-09-27 Thread Joe . Guthrie

I also noticed that the black smoke
is gone on my 79 300TD, but I am using 50 WVO/50 dyno. I can't make
it smoke now.___
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Re: [Biofuel] Cross Posted: Fwd: [DIYGasTurbines] Re: I'd like to try something...but first, your opinions (please).

2005-09-01 Thread Joe . Guthrie

Gas terbine cars that were tested 20
or 30 years ago had very poor mileage and gas terbine generators are usually
reserved for peak power use only not long term use from what I recall.___
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RE: [Biofuel] Burning glycerol for heat / Acrolein

2005-07-19 Thread Joe . Guthrie

Nitrogen is not explosive, infact it
is used as a non flamable protective gas where oxidation is to be prevented.


I'm no expert but I think nitroglycerin
is produced by the action of nitric acid on glycerin. This is a very dangerous
experiment to mess with. Really has nothing to do with internal combustion
engines.






Chris Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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   RE: [Biofuel] Burning glycerol for heat
/ Acrolein

 How about combining the glycerin
with nitrogen to create nitroglycerin? I know, nitrogen is explosive
but so is hydrogen. 

Nitro-glycerine is a high explosive;
the shock wave expands faster than the speed of sound. Not a good idea
inside an enclosed space. Chris. 

Wessex Ferret Club (http://www.wessexferretclub.co.uk)





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Re: [Biofuel] Dewatering WVO with vacuum and heat

2005-05-13 Thread Joe . Guthrie





Normal atmospheric pressure is 760 mm or 76 cm or 30 inches.   150 mm is about 
150/760 atmospheres absolute.
24'Vacuum is 30 minus (150mm/25.4mm/in)

Handbook of chemistry and physics, crc publishing or probably many places on 
the net.

google vapor pressure of water.



 
  Pieter Koole  
 
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Vapor pressure at 140 F for water is 150 mm Hg or equiv of 24 in vacuum but
you will need to go

Isn't the normal atmospheric pressure 76 mm HG ??
If yes, I don't understand what is written above.
If no, I also don't understand.
Is it possible to give a little explanation ? (because I have been thinking
on this subject also ).
Is there a table or so, where one can find at what pressures water boils ?



Pieter Koole
Netherlands

- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 11:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Dewatering WVO with vacuum and heat







Rob,  I think a water heater will stand the vacuum easily since it is at the
most 15 PSI compression on the steel, compared to 150 or more in tension
when in normal use.  Not sure it will save energy.  Vapor pressure at 140 F
for water is 150 mm Hg or equiv of 24 in vacuum but you will need to go
lower  to get the water to burst into foamy bubbles. (or higher temp)
Probably will be easier on the oil, than doing it at atmospheric
pressure.___
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Re: [Biofuel] Dewatering WVO with vacuum and heat

2005-05-12 Thread Joe . Guthrie






Rob,  I think a water heater will stand the vacuum easily since it is at the 
most 15 PSI compression on the steel, compared to 150 or more in tension
when in normal use.  Not sure it will save energy.  Vapor pressure at 140 F for 
water is 150 mm Hg or equiv of 24 in vacuum but you will need to go
lower  to get the water to burst into foamy bubbles. (or higher temp)
Probably will be easier on the oil, than doing it at atmospheric 
pressure.___
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Re: [Biofuel] Isopropyl questions and a few other questions

2005-04-16 Thread Joe . Guthrie





I have been using 70% iso from the drugstore and it works fine.  Since we add a 
water solution to it anyway, why is 100% needed??
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[Biofuel] Re: Drying WVO - Is there a simple way?

2005-03-09 Thread Joe . Guthrie






Hello to all:
I'm wondering if anyone is using WVO and drying it before use.  I filter it and 
it looks brite and clear but I worry that there may be water disolved
in the oil. Is there a simple test for water content?  Is there a simple method 
of removing moisture?  I don't want to heat 50 gallons to 150C.
Searching..___
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Re: [Biofuel] Is It Time For A Corporate Death Penalty Act?

2005-02-03 Thread Joe . Guthrie






Hi To All,

I guess I sort of misread this thread and got excited about the idea that a 
corporation could face the death penelty, and not just the officers.

When you think about it, if a corporation has the rights of a person such as 
the protections offered by the bill of rights, then why not have the
death penalty, (we as persons face), extend to corporations too.  The 
corporation could face dissolution and termination of it's imortal status.

Then we would find out if the death penalty is really a 
deterant.___
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Re: [Biofuel] I need filters

2004-12-22 Thread Joe . Guthrie





Hello to all:
Thought I would put out how I have been filtering WVO.
First I should say that my wvo is very clean and lightly used.  One day or at 
the most two days and filtered on the job.
It starts as pure degummed corn oil with no addatives and comes from COSTCO.
I collect it and let it settle for a month or so.  At which point it is very 
clear and brite.
Some dark carbonated flakes or dust sized particles have settled out.
I bought a dual canister water filter from a local hardware store. About 30$. 
The filter elements are of two types.
Twenty micron synthetic yarn wound nominal 20 micron particulate filter, with 
no charcoal impregnation or any other special characteristics, 2 for 5$.
The 5 micron filter is similar, also synthetic but not yarn wound, more like 
spun rayon or nylon fiber, 2 for 10$.
These are household water filters, not oil filters so I don't really know what 
the micron size would really be.
I'm just happy if they don't dissolve or become slimy. So far so good.
I run the oil through the 20 then the 5 at a pressure of 60 to 80 psi and the 
oil flows at a rate of 40 liters in 12 minutes.
The pump I used at first was a recycled pump from a carpet cleaner, steam 
extraction unit.  This worked OK but I burned it out by accident.
It only went to 50psi.
I shopped for other pumps in Granger etc and everything was 2 to 400 $ for a 
durable hi pressure pump.
Then I was at Kragen auto supply and there was a pressure washer on sale for 
80$.
It went up to 1300psi and claimed to be only usable for pure water.  Well I 
bought one thinking I would try it and return it if it didn't work.
I have been using it for 2 months so far.  I leave it set up and with oil in 
it. I have a pressure tank with an air bladder in it. which I pump into.
I manually regulate the pressure by turning the pump on and off by hand(sort of 
a pain)
The only problems I have had are that it is not a great suction pump. It will 
suck oil from a depth of a few feet but only if there is no back
pressure.
So I have a few valves set up so that when it is priming, there is a free flow 
or oil back to the dirty oil vesel.
I run the pump until all the air is out of the system then direct the oil to 
the pressure resevor and close the purge valve.
So far I have filtered about 60 gallons or so with this pump setup. I only use 
about 5 to 10 gallons a week.
I mix 50/50 with dyno diesel since my MB300TD is not converted yet.
I have had no trouble with my regular stock filter, though I am getting ready 
to take a look at it to see if it is getting fouled.
I think a used airless paint sprayer would also be a good bet for filtering.

Thats my story and I'm stickin to it.

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Re: [Biofuel] microbatches and centrifuging

2004-11-17 Thread Joe . Guthrie






John, I like where you are going.  Design Of Experiments is great for this kind 
of thing.  We use DOE here at my work all the time and have had some
good clear results on some nonintuitive experiments.  I don't know about the 
mixing.  I would just make up a high concentration and then dilute as
needed for each treatment combination.  If you have not studied DOE, then you 
owe it to yourself to read up on it.  There is free software on the
web and experimental design info too.  A government supported site and I don't 
remember where it is but is associated with Department of Health or
something has a free ware called DOE KISS which is a cut down version that is 
handy to use and simple.


   
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I am starting to make lots of little batches so that I can test the
effects of all of the variables. I was wondering if anyone had any
experience with using a centrifuge to speed separation and using
something like an agitation table to do the mixing. I would like to be
able to make 10-20 50-100mL batches at a time so that I can vary things
in small increments. also does anyone have any experience with premixing
methoxide to a high concentration and then adding methanol to the
solution to get the correct ratio? I have a much easier time measuring
small amounts of liquid than I do measuring small amounts of solids.

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Re: [Biofuel] GLOP!?

2004-11-06 Thread Joe . Guthrie





Buck, what is the status of your GLOP?




  Buck Corrigan   

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Thanks Keith (and the many others who've taken the time to respond) !

I made up a small batch (20 L)using the 6 grams per litre and 20% methanol
solution.  It seemed to work fine with good seperation and a nice product,
however,...when I bubble washed I got GLOP!!  Looks a bit like melted ice
cream, (yuck!)

Obviously the water bonded with the biodiesel.  Can this Glop-like product
be seperated by heat, time, or does it go to the dump? (down the drain?)
I'm on a septic system as I live in the sticks, so I'm not sure I want it in
my septic tank!!

I currently have it in a holding tank with an immersion heater in it hoping
it will settle out and I can still work with this product.

Thanks,

Buck

PS. finally got the pics of Luc's processor,  RIGHT ON LUC!!


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[Biofuel] where to buy KOH and Ethanol

2004-11-05 Thread Joe . Guthrie





Hi to all, I'm looking for a good supply place in the sf bay area to buy 
chemicals.  Or elsewhere if necessary. Any suggestions would be welcome.
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Re: [Biofuel] Fw: Biodiesel output to galvanized settling tankw/site tube

2004-11-01 Thread Joe . Guthrie






Hi All.  My experience with 5 minute epoxie in the acid process was not too 
good.  I had made a fiberglass braded tube (as used for electrical
insulation but not coated with silicone) into a stirrer propeller and attached 
it to a steel rod.  It was incontact with the mix over night during and
after the first acid stage.  I guess the sulfuric acid attacked the epoxie cuz 
the whole thing turned to jelly.  I had cured the epoxie for several
days before use.  The 5 minute stuff is not famous for durability in any case.  
But I would do a test on anything you planned to do in a big way.
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Re: [Biofuel] methanol recovery/first batch results

2004-10-22 Thread Joe . Guthrie






John, I am a novice at this too so others should feel free to criticize my 
remarks.

 I would suggest you titrate.  This is not so easy at this stage because any 
free fatty acids in your fuel as you went into the base process are now
soap, that is they are neutralized with Na.To convert them back to free 
fatty acids, I have taken say 10 ml of the product, and mixed it with
vinegar strong enough to drop the pH back down to say 3 or 4. This will strip 
off the sodium.  Separate  this 10 ml of oil from the vinegar. Now you
can titrate as if it were any waste or new oil.  I think you are correct in 
assuming that you should have titrated in the first place.  If you find
that the free fatty acid is above 1 g/l equivalent NaOH then you will need to 
be careful when washing not to add much water to the first few washes.
Check out the University of Idaho process.  They use 5.5% to start out with and 
mix it up before the glycerin phase is separated off. Then settle for
as long as it takes to get clear.  But that process assumes you have the 
correct amount of NaOH or KOH added to your mix in the first place.  Since
you did not titrate first, you may not have added enough NaOH to neutralize the 
FFA's as well as catalyze the reaction.  So the reaction may not have
gone to completion. If you think that that is a possibility,  You could always 
separate the glycerin, titrate as above, add 1/4 the original methanol
and enough NaOH to both neutralize as well as catalyze. Then re-react.  This 
second product will probably not drop any glycerin unless there was a lot
of unreacted oil.

I would probably let this batch settle and make a new batch with proper 
titration.  You will learn from the new batch how to deal with the old.



   
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what kind of a methanol recovery rate can I expect once I start doing that?

I got the product of my first conversion this morning and it looks straw
yellow but a bit cloudy, should I let it sit to clarify or should I wash
it? will the cloudiness wash out?  does that mean that my reaction is
incomplete? should I add more lye and methanol and reprocess? should I
have titrated in the first place?

John Guttridge

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[Biofuel] Looking for a group to brew with in the North SF bay area.

2004-10-20 Thread Joe . Guthrie





Hi to all.  I am looking for a group of people who want to make bio diesel on a 
modest scale for personal use.

I live in Sonoma and work in Petaluma CA.

I am willing to join an existing group or start a new group.

I can scrounge up most of the hardware for 160 l per batch scale operation.

I currently do not have a place to set-up.

Please respond to this message on the list or contact me by email.

I hope this is a proper use of the list.
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Re: [Biofuel] Dualistic thinking

2004-10-20 Thread Joe . Guthrie






Much of the US propraganda machine may put forth the idea of a just  war of 
good and evil,

but I don't think many thinking people actually believe it.

 Isn't this what Empire has always been about?

 Has a major Empire ever invadad just to eradicate evil in a place where there 
was nothing to be gained.

No natural resources.

No strategic value.
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[Biofuel] oil price over the years

2004-10-19 Thread Joe . Guthrie





Hi to all.  I thought this was interesting.  Adjusted for inflation, the 
record price for oil is $81.30 a barrel.

Which is the peak of the spike on the graph below.  Forwarded to me from a 
fellow worker, Peter Sieck.  I have not verified the data.


Peter Sieck
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Re: [Biofuel] FFA testing in the acid part of the Foolproof process

2004-09-29 Thread Joe . Guthrie





Thanks for your advise.  I read the referred to passages and the cautinary 
notes on using ethanol too before I started.  We all learn in our own
preferred ways.  Mine is to jump in at the level I anticipate being able to 
handle.  I do this for education and fun.

I would still like to know if there is a test for success in the first part of 
the process to determine if FFA are being esterfied.  My shake test
using the WVO makes a milkshake.  After the acid part of the process, if I do 
the same test with the product, it seperates within 10 minutes to
dishwater on the bottom and murkey oil on top.  Maybe the presence of some 
slight acid content is inhibiting the froth from forming, and the FFA's are
just as bad as they were to begin with.

Just wondering if there is a way to test.

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[Biofuel] FFA testing in the acid part of the Foolproof process

2004-09-24 Thread Joe . Guthrie





Hi All,

I have been fooling around with the Foolproof process and have a few 
questions/observations. I do not get an emulsion when I add the alcohol to the
WVO.  I am using store bought denatured alcohol which is quite dry by my tests, 
and seems to have 10 to 20% methanol in it.

I have gotten plenty of soap in the final fuel even after a good separation of 
glycerin.  I know there is plenty of FFA in my starting oil.  Is there
a test to determine if the acid stage is working or how far along the 
esterification is.?  I did the shake with water test and the original oil
becomes a milkshake. The acid stage product separates quickly but is murky.

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Re: [Biofuel] Creating a cool room storage in a hot climate - solar.

2004-09-24 Thread Joe . Guthrie





Hi All, Check out ice caves on the web.   There are many in the US and probably 
around the world.  They are natural north facing holes with the
correct angle and moisture conditions to have ice in them all year around.  By 
adding a little intelligence to the design and proper doors that shut
at the right times you could have your ownMaxwell's demon could 
work for a cool room, even in Texas.

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Re: [Biofuel] Creating a cool room storage in a hot climate - solar.

2004-09-17 Thread Joe . Guthrie





Hi all,

As I understand it, the nighttime sky looks like a 4 degree Kelvin source. 
(going from memory here) A well designed solar panel is insulated so that
the ENERGY goes in and out only by RADIATION from the front and by CONDUCTION 
to the working fluid.  ENERGY that leaves a black body (the solar panel)
is balanced by the ENERGY coming to it when at equilibrium. If the panel was in 
outer space and not facing the sun it would cool down to 4 degrees
above absolute zero when there was no heat input from the working fluid.  Here 
on earth the atmosphere reflects heat energy radiated from the earth,
back to the earth (the green house effect) so a perfect black body at night 
with a perfectly transparent window and perfect insulation would still not
get down to 4 degrees K.  But it will defiantly get well below freezing.  In 
fact most solar panels need to be protected from freezing even in the
summer.So it will make ice, the question is how much and is it worth the 
investment.  If solar heat is needed during the day, then this would be
an added use for the collectors.  Air could be the working fluid and the 
thermal mass of the cool room could be the storage medium (instead of ice)
then the system gets simpler.




  Doug Younker

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  09/15/2004 03:12  

  PM

  Please respond

  to biofuel






Hi,

But, to create ice wouldn't that require the night time temperatures to
get to freezing? Even if the goal was to cool a heat sink, power is still
would be required.
Doug

- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 11:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Creating a cool room storage in a hot climate -
solar.


:
:
:
:
: Greetings to all.
:
: A new member here.
:
: If you have clear skies at night most of the time, solar panels can be
used in reverse to radiate heat all night long. Circulate anti freeze from
them
: to your block of ice during the night and use the ice in the usual way.
Not shure how much heat you can get rid of in this way.  A calculation or
: experiment is in order.  The panels could be used for heat gain during the
day in their usual way.  Mount on top of your dirt mound for shade.
:
:
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Re: [Biofuel] Creating a cool room storage in a hot climate - solar.

2004-09-14 Thread Joe . Guthrie





Greetings to all.

A new member here.

If you have clear skies at night most of the time, solar panels can be used in 
reverse to radiate heat all night long. Circulate anti freeze from them
to your block of ice during the night and use the ice in the usual way.  Not 
shure how much heat you can get rid of in this way.  A calculation or
experiment is in order.  The panels could be used for heat gain during the day 
in their usual way.  Mount on top of your dirt mound for shade.


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