[Biofuel] soap titration

2008-06-20 Thread Steve Moran
I don't think I've seen anything on this aspect, and as I'm kind of new
to make BD, I don' t know if knowing how much soap you're producing
would help correct the problem or not, but the place I get my
isopropanol from has a link now mentioning soap titration, so I thought
I'd share.

 

http://www.sciencecompany.com/biodiesel/index.htm

 

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Re: [Biofuel] Soap formation

2006-12-29 Thread Ken Provost


On Dec 28, 2006, at 7:31 PM, Logan Vilas wrote:



If you have a complete reaction to biodiesel will soap form from
the biodiesel? I mean if you put lye and water into it would it form
soap or would it be incapable of forming soap?



Hmmm...no firsthand experience of that happening, but I think
lye should be able to break off the methanol from the biodiesel
just as it can break off the glycerol from a triglyceride in normal
soap production.

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Re: [Biofuel] Soap formation

2006-12-29 Thread JAMES PHELPS
This is, I believe, precisely why you do not want more lye than is required 
and why measurement of lye in proportion is fundamental.  I find it is 
better to undershoot a reaction and add more to complete than end up with 
too much to start.

Jim


From: Logan Vilas [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Subject: [Biofuel] Soap formation
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2006 21:31:26 -0600

If you have a complete reaction to biodiesel will soap form from the
biodiesel? I mean if you put lye and water into it would it form soap or
would it be incapable of forming soap?

Logan vilas


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[Biofuel] Soap formation

2006-12-29 Thread Joe Neo
Hi guys,

I just reprocessed a batch using 10% methanol and 5.79g of KOH per
litre. After settling for 15 hrs, it turned out well, no more
glycerine drops out, and the bididiesel was crystal clear.. So i took
about 100ml of BD and added 100ml of fresh water for test wash. I
shook it violently for 10 secs. Thick emulsion was formed with no sign
of separation (even after waited for almost 2 hrs). It was worse than
before it was reprocessed (before i got BD and  emulsion.. well, at
least there was separation). Now what i have is total emulsion..

Anyone care to advise?

Thanks,
Joe N.

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[Biofuel] Soap formation

2006-12-28 Thread Logan Vilas
If you have a complete reaction to biodiesel will soap form from the
biodiesel? I mean if you put lye and water into it would it form soap or
would it be incapable of forming soap?

Logan vilas


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Re: [Biofuel] soap or mono- and diglycerides

2006-09-11 Thread Tonomár András
Hi Rafal,

Do not overcomplicate yourself.

1. Make sure that your oil is dry.
2. Make sure that your methanol dry, and lye fresh
3. Reaction parameters - time, temperature, agitation are OK.
4. Settlig time 24 Hours +
5 Wash test from the upper layer of reaction wessel. - If failed try +1gr
lye.
For example 5.5gr / liter wash test faild, try 6.5 then 7.5 ... (if more
then 10gr, then something else is really bad)

DO more test batches at a time with 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 gr lye and see wash
test.
A washtest is only passed when separating within minutes no matter how long
and hard you shake it.

and the best advice, read JTF website :)))

If you are unconfy with titration try base - base 2 stage. (not for
testbatch)
But You HAVE TO LEARN TITRATION.

Let me know how it goes,
Andrew



 On Sat, Sep 09, 2006 at 05:05:59PM -0700, Ken Provost wrote:
 
  On Sep 9, 2006, at 4:31 PM, Rafal Szczesniak wrote:
 
 
   I'm talking about the result I get from the washing test. I know the
   soap formation is only possible in presence of water dissolving
   the lye. That's probably why aggresive mixing in the test
   could produce the soap in my case.
 
 
  Except by the time you're washing, the NaOH will be so dilute it
  shouldn't produce any additional soap. I think all your glycerides
  and all your soap will be present already -- if you want to know
  the relative proportions, an FFA assay or gas chromatogram
  are possible ways.

 One of the reasons I raised this question is that I'd like to know for
 sure, after my product fails the wash test, whether I should increase
 the amount of lye or decrease it.


 --
 cheers,

  Rafal Szczesniak  **mir[at]diament.iit.pwr.wroc.pl
  Samba Team member mi***[at]samba.org
 +-+
  *BSD, GNU/Linux and Samba  http://www.samba.org
 +-+


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Re: [Biofuel] soap or mono- and diglicerides

2006-09-11 Thread Joe Street
Try vacuum dewatering the feedstock before processing and be good and 
sure about having anhydrous chemicals and you won't have soap.  If you 
are then still getting emulsions, your process is not going far enough.

Joe

Rafal Szczesniak wrote:

Hi all,

Could you tell me how can I tell the difference between emulsion
caused by unfinished process (glicerides left in the product) and
caused by soap formation (too much lye) ?

I have a feeling I misinterpret the result I get from the wash
test...


  



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Re: [Biofuel] soap or mono- and diglycerides

2006-09-11 Thread Rafal Szczesniak
On Mon, Sep 11, 2006 at 07:14:40AM +0200, Tonom?r Andr?s wrote:
 Hi Rafal,
 
 Do not overcomplicate yourself.
 
 1. Make sure that your oil is dry.
 2. Make sure that your methanol dry, and lye fresh
 3. Reaction parameters - time, temperature, agitation are OK.
 4. Settlig time 24 Hours +
 5 Wash test from the upper layer of reaction wessel. - If failed try +1gr
 lye.
 For example 5.5gr / liter wash test faild, try 6.5 then 7.5 ... (if more
 then 10gr, then something else is really bad)
 
 DO more test batches at a time with 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 gr lye and see wash
 test.

I guess I need to do that ie. process small samples with increasing
amount of lye. Or do the poor man's titration. Or both...

 A washtest is only passed when separating within minutes no matter how long
 and hard you shake it.

It did - much quicker than my previous tests - but there's still about
1 centimeter (in 0.5 litre PET bottle) of white foam layer between water
and biodiesel.

 and the best advice, read JTF website :)))

I have, and I'm still reading it back again after each test I make :)

 If you are unconfy with titration try base - base 2 stage. (not for
 testbatch)
 But You HAVE TO LEARN TITRATION.

Titration is not a problem. My last two batches had increased lye amount
after I titrated the oil. I surely still need a bit of practice and feel
of it, but I've titrated about ten samples so far, and I'm not scared of
it.

 Let me know how it goes,

I can assure you I will let everybody know once I succeed :)

I'm just surprised that it looks I need much more lye. I didn't expect,
when titrating with phenolophtalein, the colour should be so intensive.
For me it was clear enough last time (1.35g KOH more / 1l).

Thanks for word of advice.

-- 
cheers,

 Rafal Szczesniak  **mir[at]diament.iit.pwr.wroc.pl
 Samba Team member mi***[at]samba.org
+-+
 *BSD, GNU/Linux and Samba  http://www.samba.org
+-+


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Re: [Biofuel] soap or mono- and diglicerides

2006-09-11 Thread Rafal Szczesniak
On Mon, Sep 11, 2006 at 10:11:35AM -0400, Joe Street wrote:
 Try vacuum dewatering the feedstock before processing and be good and 
 sure about having anhydrous chemicals and you won't have soap.  If you 
 are then still getting emulsions, your process is not going far enough.

Yes, it looks like. Processing time is 2h, temperature in range of
60-64 degC, agitation using medium-size aquarium water pump - I think it's
enough for 5l test container. Maybe I should redesign the container's
inlet and outlet (both in the same lid - two plastic pipes of different
length).


-- 
cheers,

 Rafal Szczesniak  **mir[at]diament.iit.pwr.wroc.pl
 Samba Team member mi***[at]samba.org
+-+
 *BSD, GNU/Linux and Samba  http://www.samba.org
+-+


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Re: [Biofuel] soap or mono- and diglicerides

2006-09-11 Thread Joe Street




If possible connect the pump to an external oil source and time how
long it takes to fill the 5 litre process container when lifting from
the same height as it usually would during a process. This should give
you an idea of the pumping speed. Also if I imagine your setup
correctly you probably have a tube going to the bottom and another near
the top of your process container. If possible try to arrange it so
the upper line goes to your mixing pump inlet and the return is to the
bottom of the container. Methanol tends to separate from the oil and
collects near the top so better to pump it from there for best mixing.

Joe

Rafal Szczesniak wrote:

  On Mon, Sep 11, 2006 at 10:11:35AM -0400, Joe Street wrote:
  
  
Try vacuum dewatering the feedstock before processing and be good and 
sure about having anhydrous chemicals and you won't have soap.  If you 
are then still getting emulsions, your process is not going far enough.

  
  
Yes, it looks like. Processing time is 2h, temperature in range of
60-64 degC, agitation using medium-size aquarium water pump - I think it's
enough for 5l test container. Maybe I should redesign the container's
inlet and outlet (both in the same lid - two plastic pipes of different
length).


  



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Re: [Biofuel] soap or mono- and diglycerides

2006-09-10 Thread Rafal Szczesniak
On Sat, Sep 09, 2006 at 05:05:59PM -0700, Ken Provost wrote:
 
 On Sep 9, 2006, at 4:31 PM, Rafal Szczesniak wrote:
 
 
  I'm talking about the result I get from the washing test. I know the
  soap formation is only possible in presence of water dissolving
  the lye. That's probably why aggresive mixing in the test
  could produce the soap in my case.
 
 
 Except by the time you're washing, the NaOH will be so dilute it
 shouldn't produce any additional soap. I think all your glycerides
 and all your soap will be present already -- if you want to know
 the relative proportions, an FFA assay or gas chromatogram
 are possible ways.

One of the reasons I raised this question is that I'd like to know for
sure, after my product fails the wash test, whether I should increase
the amount of lye or decrease it.


-- 
cheers,

 Rafal Szczesniak  **mir[at]diament.iit.pwr.wroc.pl
 Samba Team member mi***[at]samba.org
+-+
 *BSD, GNU/Linux and Samba  http://www.samba.org
+-+


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[Biofuel] soap or mono- and diglicerides

2006-09-09 Thread Rafal Szczesniak
Hi all,

Could you tell me how can I tell the difference between emulsion
caused by unfinished process (glicerides left in the product) and
caused by soap formation (too much lye) ?

I have a feeling I misinterpret the result I get from the wash
test...


-- 
cheers,

 Rafal Szczesniak  **mir[at]diament.iit.pwr.wroc.pl
 Samba Team member mi***[at]samba.org
+-+
 *BSD, GNU/Linux and Samba  http://www.samba.org
+-+


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Re: [Biofuel] soap or mono- and diglycerides

2006-09-09 Thread Ken Provost

On Sep 9, 2006, at 11:12 AM, Rafal Szczesniak wrote:

 Hi all,

 Could you tell me how can I tell the difference between emulsion
 caused by unfinished process (glycerides left in the product) and
 caused by soap formation (too much lye) ?


I suppose you could use gentle acidification followed by assaying
the resulting FFA (soap will produce FFA, mono- and diglycerides
won't). Sounds complicated. In general, soap formation is a result
of too much water in the reaction, not too much lye. The concentra-
tions of NaOH you're working with (even when somewhat excess-
ive) are not high enough to saponify the oil itself -- in the absence
of water, only the FFA originally present will form soap.

-K

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Re: [Biofuel] soap or mono- and diglycerides

2006-09-09 Thread Rafal Szczesniak
On Sat, Sep 09, 2006 at 02:18:17PM -0700, Ken Provost wrote:
 
 On Sep 9, 2006, at 11:12 AM, Rafal Szczesniak wrote:
 
  Hi all,
 
  Could you tell me how can I tell the difference between emulsion
  caused by unfinished process (glycerides left in the product) and
  caused by soap formation (too much lye) ?
 
 
 I suppose you could use gentle acidification followed by assaying
 the resulting FFA (soap will produce FFA, mono- and diglycerides
 won't). Sounds complicated. In general, soap formation is a result
 of too much water in the reaction, not too much lye. The concentra-
 tions of NaOH you're working with (even when somewhat excess-
 ive) are not high enough to saponify the oil itself -- in the absence
 of water, only the FFA originally present will form soap.

Yes, I know that. I'm talking about the result I get from the washing
test. I know the soap formation is only possible in presence of water
dissolving the lye. That's probably why aggresive mixing in the test
could produce the soap in my case. I'm trying to find out whether
emulsion I get comes from soap or unfinshed reaction. The product seems
to have pH  7 (tested with the litmus paper).


-- 
cheers,

 Rafal Szczesniak  **mir[at]diament.iit.pwr.wroc.pl
 Samba Team member mi***[at]samba.org
+-+
 *BSD, GNU/Linux and Samba  http://www.samba.org
+-+


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Re: [Biofuel] soap, glycerine by-product and how my farm is

2005-04-11 Thread Rob



Actually my land is real flat, so underground will not work.  I have 
looked into solar dehydrators, but with my normal humidity of 80%, it is 
hard to dry anything.  We run the hot water through the towel rack while 
having our showers in order to heat and dry the towels.  They naturally 
soak up moisture from our environment.  If you know how to dehydrate 
with high humidity, I would love to learn.

Would you like plans for a VERY cheap dehumidifier (probably less than $20) 
that can take out over a gallon of water a day (depending on humidity) ??

Incidently we are having an underground (Earth Sheltered) house built, and 
below 4' the tempreture is around 50 oF (coldest)in Winter and 64 oF (warmest) 
in summer, so maybe even a Storm Cellar type structure built into the ground 
may work.

Rob



 
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Re: [Biofuel] soap, glycerine by-product and how my farm is

2005-04-11 Thread Kim Garth Travis



Rob wrote:




Would you like plans for a VERY cheap dehumidifier (probably less than $20) 
that can take out over a gallon of water a day (depending on humidity) ??

I would very much like the plans.  How much energy does it use?  We do 
have an electric humidifyer, but it sucks powers like an AC unit. 
Necessary to use, at times, but I hate plugging the darn thing in.



Incidently we are having an underground (Earth Sheltered) house built, and below 4' the 
tempreture is around 50 oF (coldest)in Winter and 64 oF (warmest) in summer, so maybe 
even a Storm Cellar type structure built into the ground may work.

Must be nice.  With our heavy clay, heavy rains and flat land that is 
slightly lower than all our neighbors, this is not a good idea.



Rob


Bright Blessings,
Kim

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RE: [Biofuel] soap, glycerine by-product and how my farm is

2005-04-11 Thread Steve Hess

Rob
I have a very damp basement and would be interested in your plans for
the dehumidifier.
Steve Hess

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Kim  Garth Travis
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2005 8:35 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] soap, glycerine by-product and how my farm is


Greetings Rob,

Rob wrote:


 
 Would you like plans for a VERY cheap dehumidifier (probably less than

 $20) that can take out over a gallon of water a day (depending on 
 humidity) ??
 
I would very much like the plans.  How much energy does it use?  We do 
have an electric humidifyer, but it sucks powers like an AC unit. 
Necessary to use, at times, but I hate plugging the darn thing in.

 Incidently we are having an underground (Earth Sheltered) house built,

 and below 4' the tempreture is around 50 oF (coldest)in Winter and 64 
 oF (warmest) in summer, so maybe even a Storm Cellar type structure 
 built into the ground may work.
 
Must be nice.  With our heavy clay, heavy rains and flat land that is 
slightly lower than all our neighbors, this is not a good idea.

 Rob
 
Bright Blessings,
Kim

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Re: [Biofuel] soap, glycerine by-product and how my farm is doing

2005-04-10 Thread Kim Garth Travis



Keith Addison wrote:

   I do want to make some liquid soap, but not from by-product, I
 want good   soap (shower soap). I made some a couple of times
 before with olive oil,   not too bad, but not that good either.
 I've read that you really need   coconut oil to make good liquid
 soap, and I can't get coconut oil here.   What do you use?
I only use coconut oil in my dishwashing soap.  Castor bean oil is good, 
but I am heavy on the tallow usage.  I do make a 100% olive for shampoo, 
but I superfat it 5% and lately have been using both NaOH and KOH 
together to get a creamy soap.  I have really enjoyed using goat tallow, 
but now I am out.  I do use lots of emu oil, but I used to own a bunch 
of them.  [The last of them is on their way to the freezer as we speak.] 
 Lard is one of the best soap ingredients there is.  I also really like 
lamb tallow.  I was in an exotic oil soap swap and got some fantastic 
soaps, including one called 'Road Kill'.  Quite exotic.

 snip


 Good luck Kim, please keep us advised.

I will certainly do so.  I have a 55 gal drum of used oil just waiting 
for me to learn what to do with it.  This summer will see a building go 
in to house a generator and biofuel lab.  Now, just have to find time to 
actually learn how to make the fuel.


snip
 But you've learnt from that now, you won't make those mistakes next
 time, and it'll give you better insight on other things too, don't you
 think?
I hope so.  I am so tired of finding out after I build the darn thing 
that I have done it wrong.  By now I have gotten smarter, as soon as I 
have something to test, I test it!  I don't wait for the thing to be 
completely finished to find out my booboos.

Snip

 If it's efficient (buried inside a hill?) and you have sufficient
 on-farm energy it might be worthwhile. Do you smoke meat, or make
 pemmican (biltong)? Sun-dried fruit? Some veggies sun-dry well too.
 Ferments are probably best.

Actually my land is real flat, so underground will not work.  I have 
looked into solar dehydrators, but with my normal humidity of 80%, it is 
hard to dry anything.  We run the hot water through the towel rack while 
having our showers in order to heat and dry the towels.  They naturally 
soak up moisture from our environment.  If you know how to dehydrate 
with high humidity, I would love to learn.


A smoke house is on the list of things to build, but when I am not sure. 
 Fermented food still has to be stored at around 50F or it spoils. 
That is what I did with last years harvest and we love it.  Much better 
for us, no more bought condiments either.  I now make them all myself 
and like them better.


 Well, chores are calling.
As always  the above is true again.  I have a chicken loose that the dog 
scared so, by now she should have calmed down and I can go and catch 
her.  If I leave her out for the night, she will be something's dinner.


 Thanks Kim, strength to yer arm!

Thanks Keith, and much health and energy to you as well as Bright Blessings,
Kim



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Re: [Biofuel] soap, glycerine by-product and how my farm is doing

2005-04-09 Thread Keith Addison




Greetings,
Keith I make soap with KOH and/or NaOH depending on what I want.  A 
liquid soap, bar soap or cream soap.


The trouble, if it is one, is that we use KOH in the first place for 
the process, so the by-product is liquid. I doubt that using NaOH in 
a subsequent soapmaking process would solidify it. But I'm planning 
to try it, just for interest's sake. Maybe it'll gel. I've done the 
first test with KOH (it has to cure for a couple of weeks now, if it 
cures), I'll do some more in the next few days.


I do want to make some liquid soap, but not from by-product, I want 
good soap (shower soap). I made some a couple of times before with 
olive oil, not too bad, but not that good either. I've read that you 
really need coconut oil to make good liquid soap, and I can't get 
coconut oil here. What do you use?


I don't know what you have available for animals tallows, but goat, 
emu and pig are all wonderfully hydrating, so using them in addition 
to your leftovers could remove the caustic qualities.


Interesting Kim. I do rather wonder just what exactly one would be 
trying to make soap out of in producing soap from glyc by-product, as 
people claim to do. All the vegoil (triglycerides) is gone already, 
it's in the biodesel now; you do have FFAs, not the ideal feedstock 
for soapmaking, but it's already been converted to soap-of-sorts; and 
there's probably about 40% or so crude glycerine in there, though 
about 13% would be ideal, and you can't make soap out of glycerine. 
So it had occurred to me that the secret of making *good* soap out of 
the stuff might be to add triglycerides, tallows being a good 
candidate. Depending where you live (no need in Texas it seems), you 
should probably settle out tallows and lards from the WVO anyway for 
winter fuel (heat it up then cool it right down and they'll settle), 
which might be a good source.


I would love to hear how things work out on using the byproduct in 
biogass production.  Since I use a grey water system, I don't thing 
dumping it down the drain will help.grin


I said I'd also be doing soil tests, and I'd like to do grey water 
tests too. We'll see. The biogas option is very interesting. It'll 
work, I'm sure, but as Pannirselvam said, optimising it will need 
investigation. It's be good if some other members took this on too so 
we could all collaborate.


Making biodeisel has been moved up in our priority list.  I walked 
the aisles of the store yesterday looking for a HPDE bottle with 2 
lids, they don't exist in this part of Texas.


Two lids aren't essential.


I guess I will have to syphon off the good stuff when I am done.


Or pour it off carefully. You'll find a good way.

I will be using my soaping crock pot and my drill press to make my 
first production unit.  I just need to make the mixing blade and to 
pick up some methanol.  I have been preparing for the next few 
learning lessons as well by picking up a ph meter and some lab 
equipment for titration.  Now, if I can find the time off from the 
farm to do it.


Good luck Kim, please keep us advised.

For the last year we had our rabbits directly over the compost pile. 
This sure saved a lot of work on a weekly basis, but what a 
nightmare to move!  Shoveling out a 16'x4'x4' compost pile from 
inside a building is not a job I ever want to do again.


Um, yes... I've seen that movie before. :-(

We are in the middle of a rabbitry rebuild and I have found that I 
am a really lousy engineer.  The first design did not allow the 
rabbit cage doors to open, the second one had the back of the drain 
tray so shallow that everything washed right over and onto the 
floor.  I think I have it right this time.


But you've learnt from that now, you won't make those mistakes next 
time, and it'll give you better insight on other things too, don't 
you think?


Our third attempt at a chicken tractor has worked out perfectly.  We 
love it and so do the chickens.  The change in the pasture where we 
have run them is fantastic!


The research into traditional food storage in this area has led to 
an understanding that it was not done.  Food storage is either 
walking on its legs or still in the ground.  Fruit was turned into 
jams, jellies and wine to preserve it.  Even if you have a hill to 
go underground in, the best you will get is 70F.  Nice living 
temperature but not sufficient for cool storage.  We are looking a 
expanding the green houses, in the plans and doing quite a bit of 
experimenting with what will actually grow when.  We will do a small 
solar ac cool storage, but we are going to try to avoid the need for 
it.


If it's efficient (buried inside a hill?) and you have sufficient 
on-farm energy it might be worthwhile. Do you smoke meat, or make 
pemmican (biltong)? Sun-dried fruit? Some veggies sun-dry well too. 
Ferments are probably best.



Well, chores are calling.


Thanks Kim, strength to yer arm!

Regards

Keith



Bright Blessings,
Kim

Keith Addison wrote:


snip


[Biofuel] soap, glycerine by-product and how my farm is doing

2005-04-08 Thread Kim Garth Travis


Keith I make soap with KOH and/or NaOH depending on what I want.  A 
liquid soap, bar soap or cream soap.  I don't know what you have 
available for animals tallows, but goat, emu and pig are all wonderfully 
hydrating, so using them in addition to your leftovers could remove the 
caustic qualities.


I would love to hear how things work out on using the byproduct in 
biogass production.  Since I use a grey water system, I don't thing 
dumping it down the drain will help.grin


Making biodeisel has been moved up in our priority list.  I walked the 
aisles of the store yesterday looking for a HPDE bottle with 2 lids, 
they don't exist in this part of Texas.  I guess I will have to syphon 
off the good stuff when I am done.  I will be using my soaping crock pot 
and my drill press to make my first production unit.  I just need to 
make the mixing blade and to pick up some methanol.  I have been 
preparing for the next few learning lessons as well by picking up a ph 
meter and some lab equipment for titration.  Now, if I can find the time 
off from the farm to do it.


For the last year we had our rabbits directly over the compost pile. 
This sure saved a lot of work on a weekly basis, but what a nightmare to 
move!  Shoveling out a 16'x4'x4' compost pile from inside a building is 
not a job I ever want to do again.  We are in the middle of a rabbitry 
rebuild and I have found that I am a really lousy engineer.  The first 
design did not allow the rabbit cage doors to open, the second one had 
the back of the drain tray so shallow that everything washed right over 
and onto the floor.  I think I have it right this time.


Our third attempt at a chicken tractor has worked out perfectly.  We 
love it and so do the chickens.  The change in the pasture where we have 
run them is fantastic!


The research into traditional food storage in this area has led to an 
understanding that it was not done.  Food storage is either walking on 
its legs or still in the ground.  Fruit was turned into jams, jellies 
and wine to preserve it.  Even if you have a hill to go underground in, 
the best you will get is 70F.  Nice living temperature but not 
sufficient for cool storage.  We are looking a expanding the green 
houses, in the plans and doing quite a bit of experimenting with what 
will actually grow when.  We will do a small solar ac cool storage, but 
we are going to try to avoid the need for it.


Well, chores are calling.

Bright Blessings,
Kim

Keith Addison wrote:


snip

I'm sceptical of claims that people make soap out of it of a high enough 
quality to sell. Anyway we use KOH, not NaOH, so the by-product is 
always liquid and I don't think it could be made into a solid bar soap. 
No doubt you can make soap out of it that works okay but isn't good 
enough to sell, but that would be far more soap than we could ever use. 
As a cleaner and degreaser it's effective but it's very caustic, rough 
on the hands. We're working on a soapmaking process that we hope will 
give us a liquid product that's as effective as a degreaser but won't be 
so harsh.





snip

But if that's what you do or want to do, you should check with your 
local water department first.


Best wishes

Keith Addison
Journey to Forever
KYOTO Pref., Japan
http://journeytoforever.org/



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Re: [Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-21 Thread Keith Addison



http://wwia.org/pipermail/biofuel/Week-of-Mon-20050214/005984.html
[Biofuel] Soap  aerated concrete



Met  dank en vriendelijke groet,
Pieter Koole
Netherlands

- Original Message -
From: Martin K [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 11:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Soap  aerated concrete




 Keith Addison wrote:
  Hi Martin
 
  Hi Keith et al,
  I used Perlite mixed with refractory cement in my aluminum casting
  furnace. The walls saw temperatures surpassing 2000F, it was working
  well. The mixture was 50/50, and the perlite is very light-weight,
  reducing the overall mass of the structure.
  --
  Martin K
 
 
  Perlite gives very similar results to rice husk ash. Michael Allen and I
  discussed Perlite in this context when I made that page on rice husk
  ash. You used the same ratio of cement as I do with RHA, after trying it
  20 different ways in tests.
 
  Regards
 
  Keith
 

 I wouldn't mind using RHA for such a thing, but I don't think I'm within
 1000 miles of a rice field.


 --
 Martin K
 http://wwia.org/sgroup/biofuel/


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Re: [Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-21 Thread Pat Straley

Keith,
Perlite is a generic term for naturally occurring siliceous rock.  I am most 
familiar with the expanded form which I use as packing to hold my dormant, 
tropical plants during winter storage.  Check out http:wwwmperlite.net
Regards,
Pat

Keith wrote:
“What is perlite?”
Sent via BlackBerry from EarthLink 
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[Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-21 Thread Keith Addison




Keith,
Perlite is a generic term for naturally occurring siliceous rock.  I 
am most familiar with the expanded form which I use as packing to 
hold my dormant, tropical plants during winter storage.  Check out 
http:wwwmperlite.net

Regards,
Pat


Well, thanks anyway Pat, but, um...


Keith wrote:


No I didn't, Pieter Koole did. On the contrary, I provided one of the 
explanations the first time someone asked, and this time round I 
provided the archives link to that explanation - THAT is what I 
wrote. See:

http://wwia.org/pipermail/biofuel/Week-of-Mon-20050221/006170.html
[Biofuel] Soap  aerated concrete

This is always happening, here and on other lists. Members forward 
news reports and, though their reason for forwarding them might be 
strong disagreement rather than endorsement, they get accused of 
having written them because other members' non-smart emailers are 
defaulted to quote the previous message by starting with the sender's 
name followed by wrote. Someone's going to get sued over this one 
of these days.


PLEASE, if your emailer does this, reset it! Thankyou!

Keith



What is perlite?
Sent via BlackBerry from EarthLink Wireless.


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Re: [Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-21 Thread DHAJOGLO

Martin,

I wouldn't mind using RHA for such a thing, but I don't think I'm within
1000 miles of a rice field.


--
Martin K

Are you anywhere near Minnesota?  We have quite the rice industry here.  After 
all these posts I though I might look into it this summer.


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Re: [Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-20 Thread Pieter Koole

What is Perlite ?

Met  dank en vriendelijke groet,
Pieter Koole
Netherlands

- Original Message -
From: Martin K [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 11:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Soap  aerated concrete




 Keith Addison wrote:
  Hi Martin
 
  Hi Keith et al,
  I used Perlite mixed with refractory cement in my aluminum casting
  furnace. The walls saw temperatures surpassing 2000F, it was working
  well. The mixture was 50/50, and the perlite is very light-weight,
  reducing the overall mass of the structure.
  --
  Martin K
 
 
  Perlite gives very similar results to rice husk ash. Michael Allen and I
  discussed Perlite in this context when I made that page on rice husk
  ash. You used the same ratio of cement as I do with RHA, after trying it
  20 different ways in tests.
 
  Regards
 
  Keith
 

 I wouldn't mind using RHA for such a thing, but I don't think I'm within
 1000 miles of a rice field.


 --
 Martin K
 http://wwia.org/sgroup/biofuel/
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Re: [Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-18 Thread Martin K



Keith Addison wrote:

Hi Martin


Hi Keith et al,
I used Perlite mixed with refractory cement in my aluminum casting 
furnace. The walls saw temperatures surpassing 2000F, it was working 
well. The mixture was 50/50, and the perlite is very light-weight, 
reducing the overall mass of the structure.

--
Martin K



Perlite gives very similar results to rice husk ash. Michael Allen and I 
discussed Perlite in this context when I made that page on rice husk 
ash. You used the same ratio of cement as I do with RHA, after trying it 
20 different ways in tests.


Regards

Keith



I wouldn't mind using RHA for such a thing, but I don't think I'm within 
1000 miles of a rice field.



--
Martin K
http://wwia.org/sgroup/biofuel/
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Re: [Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-15 Thread John Miggins


polystyrene pellets into his concrete mix.  You know the shipping peanuts. 
However he had to cut them down to about the size of MM's



John Miggins
Harvest Solar  Wind Power
renewable solutions to everyday needs
www.harvest-energy.com
Phone/Fax 918-743-2299
Cell: 918-521-6223

- Original Message - 
From: Greg Harbican [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2005 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Soap  aerated concrete



I don't know about using soap, but, professionals make it by mixing in
aluminum chips.

The aluminum reacts with the calcium hydroxide, and produces aluminum
hydroxide and H2 gas.

Greg H.

- Original Message - 
From: Doug Foskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2005 12:52
Subject: [Biofuel] Soap  aerated concrete


Hi,
I am searching for information on making aerated concrete. For those
interested, basically foam is added to a mortar mix, and the mortar can be
up
to double the quantity, with reduced strength, but added insulation.
This is achieved with an organic soap (from what I have found), but I was
wondering if anyone had seen info on using home made soap?

http://pelagic.wavyhill.xsmail.com/cellcrete_how.html is a site I found
with
a home made processor


From my search on the web, protein hydrolisation seems to be the

soap/additive
that is used for making the foam. I have not found any more info on how 
this

is made though.

Can anyone help me??

regards Doug

(I am interested in making tilt up concrete panels for a building.)
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Re: [Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-15 Thread Keith Addison




Hi Keith et al,
I used Perlite mixed with refractory cement in my aluminum casting 
furnace. The walls saw temperatures surpassing 2000F, it was working 
well. The mixture was 50/50, and the perlite is very light-weight, 
reducing the overall mass of the structure.

--
Martin K


Perlite gives very similar results to rice husk ash. Michael Allen 
and I discussed Perlite in this context when I made that page on rice 
husk ash. You used the same ratio of cement as I do with RHA, after 
trying it 20 different ways in tests.


Regards

Keith




Keith Addison wrote:

Hi Doug

Nothing to do with soap, but do you know about this?

http://journeytoforever.org/at_woodstove-allen.html
Rice-husk stoves - Appropriate technology: Journey to Forever

This stuff is great! We're using it to build charcoal-burning 
stoves, it's an excellent insulator. Have a look at this picture:


http://journeytoforever.org/bflpics/rhahand2.jpg

Those coals are really hot!

Reduced strength, as you say, but we find that a mix of 1:3 up to 
1:1 cement to rice husk ash by weight is pretty strong, and since 
the RHA is much lighter than the cement, in fact you don't use a 
lot of cement. It's a bit like pumice or something. Doesn't weigh 
very much.


The rice husk burner works very well, but if you want to put it in 
a 55-gal/200 litre oil drum, as we did, you'll have to make the 
cage slightly smaller.




Hi,
I am searching for information on making aerated concrete. For those
interested, basically foam is added to a mortar mix, and the 
mortar can be up

to double the quantity, with reduced strength, but added insulation.
This is achieved with an organic soap (from what I have found), but I was
wondering if anyone had seen info on using home made soap?

http://pelagic.wavyhill.xsmail.com/cellcrete_how.html is a site 
I found with

a home made processor

From my search on the web, protein hydrolisation seems to be the 
soap/additive

that is used for making the foam. I have not found any more info on how this
is made though.

Can anyone help me??

regards Doug

(I am interested in making tilt up concrete panels for a building.)


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Re: [Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-15 Thread Doug Foskey

The process you mention is the process to make Hebel. The problem with using 
that process, is you need heat (ie Autoclave), and the product is reactive, 
so requires epoxy coated re-inforcing.
  The process I am interested in uses externally generated bubbles of less 
than 1mm diameter, mixed with (fine sand) mortar. This creates a product 
similar to Hebel, but with better (from my searching, anyway) water 
properties. (Hebel cannot be wet as it looses strength)
  Proper aerated concrete retains much of the strength of normal concrete.

regards Doug

On Tuesday 15 February 2005 8:03, Greg  Harbican wrote:
 I don't know about using soap, but, professionals make it by mixing in
 aluminum chips.

 The aluminum reacts with the calcium hydroxide, and produces aluminum
 hydroxide and H2 gas.

 Greg H.

 - Original Message -
 From: Doug Foskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Monday, February 14, 2005 12:52
 Subject: [Biofuel] Soap  aerated concrete


 Hi,
  I am searching for information on making aerated concrete. For those
 interested, basically foam is added to a mortar mix, and the mortar can be
 up
 to double the quantity, with reduced strength, but added insulation.
  This is achieved with an organic soap (from what I have found), but I was
 wondering if anyone had seen info on using home made soap?

 http://pelagic.wavyhill.xsmail.com/cellcrete_how.html is a site I found
 with
 a home made processor

 From my search on the web, protein hydrolisation seems to be the

 soap/additive
 that is used for making the foam. I have not found any more info on how
 this is made though.

  Can anyone help me??

 regards Doug

 (I am interested in making tilt up concrete panels for a building.)
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Re: [Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-15 Thread Doug Foskey

No problem, Caroline. I would be more likely to posr any results on the list, 
as there are others probably interested. Others are welcome to use the Delete 
key!

regards Doug

(I really like the group because we have such diverse interests  views!)

On Tuesday 15 February 2005 7:33, grahams wrote:
 At 02:52 PM 2/14/2005, you wrote:
 Hi,
   I am searching for information on making aerated concrete. For those
 interested, basically foam is added to a mortar mix, and the mortar can be
  up to double the quantity, with reduced strength, but added insulation.
  This is achieved with an organic soap (from what I have found), but I was
  wondering if anyone had seen info on using home made soap?

 There are many recipes for how people make/use homemade soap for dishes. I
 would suggest you make a batch of concrete as the directions state to get
 an idea how the consistency is supposed to be at each stage and then
 experiment substituting with homemade soap -whatever recipe you decide to
 use.  Perhaps you will need to adjust your soap recipe (or quantities
 needed)  to end up with a similar outcome.

 I would love to hear of your results, email me privately if you don't mind
 when you experiment.

 Caroline

 Caroline

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Re: [Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-15 Thread Guag Meister

Hi All ;

Could I ask a stupid question?  What is Perlite?

Best Regards,
Peter G.
Thailand

--- Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi Martin
 
 Hi Keith et al,
 I used Perlite mixed with refractory cement in my
 aluminum casting 
 furnace. The walls saw temperatures surpassing
 2000F, it was working 
 well. The mixture was 50/50, and the perlite is
 very light-weight, 
 reducing the overall mass of the structure.
 --
 Martin K
 
 Perlite gives very similar results to rice husk ash.
 Michael Allen 
 and I discussed Perlite in this context when I made
 that page on rice 
 husk ash. You used the same ratio of cement as I do
 with RHA, after 
 trying it 20 different ways in tests.
 
 Regards
 
 Keith
 
 
 
 Keith Addison wrote:
 Hi Doug
 
 Nothing to do with soap, but do you know about
 this?
 

http://journeytoforever.org/at_woodstove-allen.html
 Rice-husk stoves - Appropriate technology: Journey
 to Forever
 
 This stuff is great! We're using it to build
 charcoal-burning 
 stoves, it's an excellent insulator. Have a look
 at this picture:
 
 http://journeytoforever.org/bflpics/rhahand2.jpg
 
 Those coals are really hot!
 
 Reduced strength, as you say, but we find that a
 mix of 1:3 up to 
 1:1 cement to rice husk ash by weight is pretty
 strong, and since 
 the RHA is much lighter than the cement, in fact
 you don't use a 
 lot of cement. It's a bit like pumice or
 something. Doesn't weigh 
 very much.
 
 The rice husk burner works very well, but if you
 want to put it in 
 a 55-gal/200 litre oil drum, as we did, you'll
 have to make the 
 cage slightly smaller.
 
 
 Hi,
 I am searching for information on making aerated
 concrete. For those
 interested, basically foam is added to a mortar
 mix, and the 
 mortar can be up
 to double the quantity, with reduced strength,
 but added insulation.
 This is achieved with an organic soap (from what
 I have found), but I was
 wondering if anyone had seen info on using home
 made soap?
 

http://pelagic.wavyhill.xsmail.com/cellcrete_how.html
 is a site 
 I found with
 a home made processor
 
  From my search on the web, protein
 hydrolisation seems to be the 
 soap/additive
 that is used for making the foam. I have not
 found any more info on how this
 is made though.
 
 Can anyone help me??
 
 regards Doug
 
 (I am interested in making tilt up concrete
 panels for a building.)
 
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 http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/
 




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Re: [Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-15 Thread Phillip Wolfe

Perlites and found with the Borates and all part of
the volcanic geological evolution. We have a lot of
Perlites in our Sierra Nevadas in California. Same
with borates (borax).  Borates, perlites, colemanites,
- all that stuff can be found anywhere you have an
escarpment of raised mountains due to ancient volcanic
magma scarns and earthquake activity especially next
to an arid desert bowl. 

What is Perlite? 
http://www.perlite.info/hbk/0034409.htm
Perlite is not a trade name but a generic term for
naturally occurring siliceous volcanic rock. The
distinguishing feature which sets perlite apart from
other volcanic glasses is that when heated to a
suitable point in its softening range, it expands from
four to twenty times its original volume.

This expansion process is due to the presence of two
to six percent combined water in the crude perlite
rock. When quickly heated to above 1600 F (870 C) the
crude rock pops in a manner similar to popcorn as the
combined water vaporizes and creates countless tiny
bubbles in the softened glassy particles. It is these
tiny glass-sealed bubbles which account for the
amazing lightweight and other exceptional physical
properties of expanded perlite.

The expansion process also creates one of perlite's
most distinguishing characteristics: its white color.
While the crude perlite rock may range from
transparent to light gray to glossy black, the color
of expanded perlite ranges from snowy white to grayish
white.

Expanded perlite can be manufactured to weigh from 2
lbs/ft3 (32 kg/m3) to 15 lb/ft3 (240 kg/m3) making it
adaptable for numerous uses, including filtration,
horticultural applications, insulation, inert carriers
and a multitude of filler applications.


--- Guag Meister [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi All ;
 
 Could I ask a stupid question?  What is Perlite?
 
 Best Regards,
 Peter G.
 Thailand
 
 --- Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
 
  Hi Martin
  
  Hi Keith et al,
  I used Perlite mixed with refractory cement in my
  aluminum casting 
  furnace. The walls saw temperatures surpassing
  2000F, it was working 
  well. The mixture was 50/50, and the perlite is
  very light-weight, 
  reducing the overall mass of the structure.
  --
  Martin K
  
  Perlite gives very similar results to rice husk
 ash.
  Michael Allen 
  and I discussed Perlite in this context when I
 made
  that page on rice 
  husk ash. You used the same ratio of cement as I
 do
  with RHA, after 
  trying it 20 different ways in tests.
  
  Regards
  
  Keith
  
  
  
  Keith Addison wrote:
  Hi Doug
  
  Nothing to do with soap, but do you know about
  this?
  
 

http://journeytoforever.org/at_woodstove-allen.html
  Rice-husk stoves - Appropriate technology:
 Journey
  to Forever
  
  This stuff is great! We're using it to build
  charcoal-burning 
  stoves, it's an excellent insulator. Have a look
  at this picture:
  
  http://journeytoforever.org/bflpics/rhahand2.jpg
  
  Those coals are really hot!
  
  Reduced strength, as you say, but we find that a
  mix of 1:3 up to 
  1:1 cement to rice husk ash by weight is pretty
  strong, and since 
  the RHA is much lighter than the cement, in fact
  you don't use a 
  lot of cement. It's a bit like pumice or
  something. Doesn't weigh 
  very much.
  
  The rice husk burner works very well, but if you
  want to put it in 
  a 55-gal/200 litre oil drum, as we did, you'll
  have to make the 
  cage slightly smaller.
  
  
  Hi,
  I am searching for information on making
 aerated
  concrete. For those
  interested, basically foam is added to a mortar
  mix, and the 
  mortar can be up
  to double the quantity, with reduced strength,
  but added insulation.
  This is achieved with an organic soap (from
 what
  I have found), but I was
  wondering if anyone had seen info on using home
  made soap?
  
 

http://pelagic.wavyhill.xsmail.com/cellcrete_how.html
  is a site 
  I found with
  a home made processor
  
   From my search on the web, protein
  hydrolisation seems to be the 
  soap/additive
  that is used for making the foam. I have not
  found any more info on how this
  is made though.
  
  Can anyone help me??
  
  regards Doug
  
  (I am interested in making tilt up concrete
  panels for a building.)
  
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  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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  Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
  http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html
  
  Biofuel archives at Infoarchive.net (searchable):
  http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/
  
 
 
 
   
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 Meet the all-new My Yahoo! - Try it today! 
 http://my.yahoo.com 
  
 
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 Biofuel archives at Infoarchive.net (searchable):
 

Re: [Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-15 Thread Phillip Wolfe

Guag - 
One of my favoite borates is called Ulexite. Ulexite
is called a natural fiber optic by scientists and
TV rock by children. It exists in oxidized form as a
rock but you can see throught the rock because it
allows light to pass through its crystalline structure
- thus transmistting the light. Take a look:

http://www.gc.maricopa.edu/earthsci/imagearchive/ulexite.htm

The natural world is a great.

Phillip Wolfe

--- Phillip Wolfe [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Perlites and found with the Borates and all part of
 the volcanic geological evolution. We have a lot of
 Perlites in our Sierra Nevadas in California. Same
 with borates (borax).  Borates, perlites,
 colemanites,
 - all that stuff can be found anywhere you have an
 escarpment of raised mountains due to ancient
 volcanic
 magma scarns and earthquake activity especially
 next
 to an arid desert bowl. 
 
 What is Perlite? 
 http://www.perlite.info/hbk/0034409.htm
 Perlite is not a trade name but a generic term for
 naturally occurring siliceous volcanic rock. The
 distinguishing feature which sets perlite apart from
 other volcanic glasses is that when heated to a
 suitable point in its softening range, it expands
 from
 four to twenty times its original volume.
 
 This expansion process is due to the presence of two
 to six percent combined water in the crude perlite
 rock. When quickly heated to above 1600 F (870 C)
 the
 crude rock pops in a manner similar to popcorn as
 the
 combined water vaporizes and creates countless tiny
 bubbles in the softened glassy particles. It is
 these
 tiny glass-sealed bubbles which account for the
 amazing lightweight and other exceptional physical
 properties of expanded perlite.
 
 The expansion process also creates one of perlite's
 most distinguishing characteristics: its white
 color.
 While the crude perlite rock may range from
 transparent to light gray to glossy black, the color
 of expanded perlite ranges from snowy white to
 grayish
 white.
 
 Expanded perlite can be manufactured to weigh from 2
 lbs/ft3 (32 kg/m3) to 15 lb/ft3 (240 kg/m3) making
 it
 adaptable for numerous uses, including filtration,
 horticultural applications, insulation, inert
 carriers
 and a multitude of filler applications.
 
 
 --- Guag Meister [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Hi All ;
  
  Could I ask a stupid question?  What is Perlite?
  
  Best Regards,
  Peter G.
  Thailand
  
  --- Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  wrote:
  
   Hi Martin
   
   Hi Keith et al,
   I used Perlite mixed with refractory cement in
 my
   aluminum casting 
   furnace. The walls saw temperatures surpassing
   2000F, it was working 
   well. The mixture was 50/50, and the perlite is
   very light-weight, 
   reducing the overall mass of the structure.
   --
   Martin K
   
   Perlite gives very similar results to rice husk
  ash.
   Michael Allen 
   and I discussed Perlite in this context when I
  made
   that page on rice 
   husk ash. You used the same ratio of cement as I
  do
   with RHA, after 
   trying it 20 different ways in tests.
   
   Regards
   
   Keith
   
   
   
   Keith Addison wrote:
   Hi Doug
   
   Nothing to do with soap, but do you know about
   this?
   
  
 

http://journeytoforever.org/at_woodstove-allen.html
   Rice-husk stoves - Appropriate technology:
  Journey
   to Forever
   
   This stuff is great! We're using it to build
   charcoal-burning 
   stoves, it's an excellent insulator. Have a
 look
   at this picture:
   
  
 http://journeytoforever.org/bflpics/rhahand2.jpg
   
   Those coals are really hot!
   
   Reduced strength, as you say, but we find that
 a
   mix of 1:3 up to 
   1:1 cement to rice husk ash by weight is
 pretty
   strong, and since 
   the RHA is much lighter than the cement, in
 fact
   you don't use a 
   lot of cement. It's a bit like pumice or
   something. Doesn't weigh 
   very much.
   
   The rice husk burner works very well, but if
 you
   want to put it in 
   a 55-gal/200 litre oil drum, as we did, you'll
   have to make the 
   cage slightly smaller.
   
   
   Hi,
   I am searching for information on making
  aerated
   concrete. For those
   interested, basically foam is added to a
 mortar
   mix, and the 
   mortar can be up
   to double the quantity, with reduced
 strength,
   but added insulation.
   This is achieved with an organic soap (from
  what
   I have found), but I was
   wondering if anyone had seen info on using
 home
   made soap?
   
  
 

http://pelagic.wavyhill.xsmail.com/cellcrete_how.html
   is a site 
   I found with
   a home made processor
   
From my search on the web, protein
   hydrolisation seems to be the 
   soap/additive
   that is used for making the foam. I have not
   found any more info on how this
   is made though.
   
   Can anyone help me??
   
   regards Doug
   
   (I am interested in making tilt up concrete
   panels for a building.)
   
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   Biofuel mailing list
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   

Re: [Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-15 Thread Keith Addison



Perlite is made from a siliceous volcanic rock for  horticultural use 
and also for insulation. When heated to a suitable point in its 
softening range, it expands from four to twenty times its original 
volume. This expansion is due to the presence of two to six percent 
combined water in the crude perlite rock. When quickly heated to 
above 1600¡F (871¡C), the crude rock pops in a manner similar to 
popcorn as the combined water vaporizes and creates countless tiny 
bubbles which account for the amazing light weight and other 
exceptional physical properties of expanded perlite.


So it's very similar to rice husk ash, which, when properly prepared, 
consists mainly of myriad tiny glass bubbles.


A major difference is that Perlite is a product, rice husk is one of 
the world's most underutilised waste materials.


Perlite is very fragile and makes an unpleasant dust. Wear a 
breathing mask. Reject perlite of a suitable  grade can often be 
obtained free of charge (or at low cost) from the manufacturers.


Best wishes

Keith



Perlites and found with the Borates and all part of
the volcanic geological evolution. We have a lot of
Perlites in our Sierra Nevadas in California. Same
with borates (borax).  Borates, perlites, colemanites,
- all that stuff can be found anywhere you have an
escarpment of raised mountains due to ancient volcanic
magma scarns and earthquake activity especially next
to an arid desert bowl.

What is Perlite?
http://www.perlite.info/hbk/0034409.htm
Perlite is not a trade name but a generic term for
naturally occurring siliceous volcanic rock. The
distinguishing feature which sets perlite apart from
other volcanic glasses is that when heated to a
suitable point in its softening range, it expands from
four to twenty times its original volume.

This expansion process is due to the presence of two
to six percent combined water in the crude perlite
rock. When quickly heated to above 1600 F (870 C) the
crude rock pops in a manner similar to popcorn as the
combined water vaporizes and creates countless tiny
bubbles in the softened glassy particles. It is these
tiny glass-sealed bubbles which account for the
amazing lightweight and other exceptional physical
properties of expanded perlite.

The expansion process also creates one of perlite's
most distinguishing characteristics: its white color.
While the crude perlite rock may range from
transparent to light gray to glossy black, the color
of expanded perlite ranges from snowy white to grayish
white.

Expanded perlite can be manufactured to weigh from 2
lbs/ft3 (32 kg/m3) to 15 lb/ft3 (240 kg/m3) making it
adaptable for numerous uses, including filtration,
horticultural applications, insulation, inert carriers
and a multitude of filler applications.


--- Guag Meister [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi All ;

 Could I ask a stupid question?  What is Perlite?

 Best Regards,
 Peter G.
 Thailand

 --- Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:

  Hi Martin
 
  Hi Keith et al,
  I used Perlite mixed with refractory cement in my
  aluminum casting
  furnace. The walls saw temperatures surpassing
  2000F, it was working
  well. The mixture was 50/50, and the perlite is
  very light-weight,
  reducing the overall mass of the structure.
  --
  Martin K
 
  Perlite gives very similar results to rice husk
 ash.
  Michael Allen
  and I discussed Perlite in this context when I
 made
  that page on rice
  husk ash. You used the same ratio of cement as I
 do
  with RHA, after
  trying it 20 different ways in tests.
 
  Regards
 
  Keith
 
 
 
  Keith Addison wrote:
  Hi Doug
  
  Nothing to do with soap, but do you know about
  this?
  
 

http://journeytoforever.org/at_woodstove-allen.html
  Rice-husk stoves - Appropriate technology:
 Journey
  to Forever
  
  This stuff is great! We're using it to build
  charcoal-burning
  stoves, it's an excellent insulator. Have a look
  at this picture:
  
  http://journeytoforever.org/bflpics/rhahand2.jpg
  
  Those coals are really hot!
  
  Reduced strength, as you say, but we find that a
  mix of 1:3 up to
  1:1 cement to rice husk ash by weight is pretty
  strong, and since
  the RHA is much lighter than the cement, in fact
  you don't use a
  lot of cement. It's a bit like pumice or
  something. Doesn't weigh
  very much.
  
  The rice husk burner works very well, but if you
  want to put it in
  a 55-gal/200 litre oil drum, as we did, you'll
  have to make the
  cage slightly smaller.
  
  
  Hi,
  I am searching for information on making
 aerated
  concrete. For those
  interested, basically foam is added to a mortar
  mix, and the
  mortar can be up
  to double the quantity, with reduced strength,
  but added insulation.
  This is achieved with an organic soap (from
 what
  I have found), but I was
  wondering if anyone had seen info on using home
  made soap?
  
 

http://pelagic.wavyhill.xsmail.com/cellcrete_how.html
  is a site
  I found with
  a home made processor
  
   From my search on the web, protein

Re: [Biofuel] Soap

2005-02-14 Thread Jan Warnqvist

Hell Pieter et al,
soap making is transforming an oil into a metal salt. There are tables over
the saponification numbers for most oils, based upon the average molecule
mass for each oil. When using KOH or NaOH , it«s the K+ and Na+ parts that
creates the soap together with the fatty acids of the oil. It does not
matter if there are free fatty acids or not. In order to saponify an unknown
oil correctly, you have to establish its average molecule weight first, but
a good guess would be to use the molecule mass of palm oil, since WVO mostly
has that origin.
Jan Warnqvist
AGERATEC AB

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

+ 46 554 201 89
+46 70 499 38 45
- Original Message - 
From: Pieter Koole [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2005 7:48 PM
Subject: [Biofuel] Soap


 Hi all,
 The more I read the messages about soap making, the more I realize that I
 don't understand the principle of soap making.
 Can anybody tell me (or give a link) what exactly is saponification ? Do
 only the FFA's saponify, or the total oil ?
 If this saponification is well known, why isn't it possible to find out
how
 much lye is needed in an unknown oil (mixture) like WVO ? If somebody ever
 found out
 how much lye one needs to saponify (is that the right word ?) for example
 olive oil, how did he or she do that ? Can't we replicate that method with
a
 mixture of used oils ?
 Mike wrote that coconut oil could dry out the skin if used to much. Why
does
 it do that ? What happens ? Why doesn't olive oil do that ? Somewhere I
also
 read, that glycerin moisturizes the skin, but if one would use to much in
 soap, it would work the other way round and dry out the skin. Why is that
?

 Met  dank en vriendelijke groet,
 Pieter Koole
 Netherlands

 - Original Message -
 From: Anti-Fossil [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2005 3:52 AM
 Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Glycerine soap making


  I have been making my own soap for about 14 years now.  The only real
  secret that I have found in regards to fantastic foaming action of
your
  soaps is the inclusion of coconut oil (c.o.) in your recipe.  I am aware
  that a few of the more popular websites, and even books written on the
  subject, warn against using too high a percentage of c.o. because of its
  drying effects on the skin.  However, I keep the percentage of c.o. in
my
  soap between 20% and 40%, and haven't had any problems with excessively
 dry
  skin.  Common sense must also come in to play of course.  If you start
 with
  dry skin, you would definitely want to stay on lower end of those
  percentages with c.o., and increase the hydrating oils like olive, and
  settle for less foaming soap.
 
  AntiFossil
  Mike Krafka USA
 
 
  - Original Message -
  From: Phillip Wolfe [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Friday, February 11, 2005 12:21 PM
  Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Glycerine soap making
 
 
   Dear Legal Eagle,
  
   There is an industrial and commercial method of using
   refined glycerin for the manufacturing of natural
   soaps and detergents (and the harsher soaps too).
  
   As JFT advocates, there is a personal quest too -
   making your own stuff.
  
   In the industrial and commercial world there is a
   worldwide glut of glcyerin! compared to a couple
   years ago. I've been following this recently.
  
   But on the personal level, me thinks the idea of
   making homegrown soaps is pretty neat.
  
   It can be Family get together like making ice cream!
  
   Take care and good luck!
  
   --- Legal Eagle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
What to do with the copious amounts of glycerine by
product ? We can follow
through with the seperation of the components an get
a close to pure
glycerine, providing we have a market for it, or we
can use it to make soap.
JtF has a few good articles on that too.
http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_glycerin.html
I am in the process of experiementing with a couple
recipes that, I hope,
will give a fairly decent usable product. I have
used some as a body soap
and it works great, however very little foamong
action and that is a problem
in most circles, so I am trying three diffenrent
approaches.
1) 100ml water with 10gr NaOH per liter of glycerine
by product
2) 150ml water with 15gr NaOH per liter of glycerine
by product
30 200ml water with 20gr NaOH per liter of glycerine
by product
   
Firstly the methanol must be removed/recovered by
raising the temps above
65C (148.5F) and then the NaOH disolved into a
little more than warm water.
Once the glycerine has cooled a bit, to about 43C
(110F) then mix in the
water/NaOH while stirring for about a minute or two.
Pour into a mold and
let settle. How long will be subject of another post
when I have it figured
out :-)
The first one has had two weeks to settle out
anything that was going

[Biofuel] Soap

2005-02-14 Thread cuneytm

   Dear Sir/Madams,
   Is there any body who can help me making my biodiesel in house.
   Which way iste cheapest way to make biodiesel.
   I have read nearly all the web pages.
   regards,
   Seref

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Re: [Biofuel] Soap

2005-02-14 Thread Keith Addison




Hell Pieter et al,
soap making is transforming an oil into a metal salt. There are tables over
the saponification numbers for most oils, based upon the average molecule
mass for each oil. When using KOH or NaOH , it«s the K+ and Na+ parts that
creates the soap together with the fatty acids of the oil. It does not
matter if there are free fatty acids or not. In order to saponify an unknown
oil correctly, you have to establish its average molecule weight first, but
a good guess would be to use the molecule mass of palm oil, since WVO mostly
has that origin.


Is that the case in Sweden Jan?

I don't think it's universal. Here in Japan it's usually canola or 
soy, in Australia I think cottonseed oil and beef tallow are common. 
I'm not sure what other countries use. Sunflower, corn, safflower, 
peanut, olive, sesame, coconut... We had a member from Greece asking 
about processing olive oil WVO.


I'd like to know who gets what WVO where - any volunteers?


Jan Warnqvist
AGERATEC AB

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

+ 46 554 201 89
+46 70 499 38 45
- Original Message -
From: Pieter Koole [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2005 7:48 PM
Subject: [Biofuel] Soap

 Hi all,
 The more I read the messages about soap making, the more I realize that I
 don't understand the principle of soap making.
 Can anybody tell me (or give a link) what exactly is saponification ? Do
 only the FFA's saponify, or the total oil ?
 If this saponification is well known, why isn't it possible to find out
how
 much lye is needed in an unknown oil (mixture) like WVO ? If somebody ever
 found out
 how much lye one needs to saponify (is that the right word ?) for example
 olive oil, how did he or she do that ? Can't we replicate that method with
a
 mixture of used oils ?
 Mike wrote that coconut oil could dry out the skin if used to much. Why
does
 it do that ? What happens ? Why doesn't olive oil do that ? Somewhere I
also
 read, that glycerin moisturizes the skin, but if one would use to much in
 soap, it would work the other way round and dry out the skin. Why is that


Glycerin is a moisturiser up to a point, and beyond that point it's a 
hydrophiliac - ie it loves water, or water loves it. So when there's 
too much glycerin it will extract all the water from your skin.


Best wishes

Keith



 Met  dank en vriendelijke groet,
 Pieter Koole
 Netherlands

 - Original Message -
 From: Anti-Fossil [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2005 3:52 AM
 Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Glycerine soap making


  I have been making my own soap for about 14 years now.  The only real
  secret that I have found in regards to fantastic foaming action of
your
  soaps is the inclusion of coconut oil (c.o.) in your recipe.  I am aware
  that a few of the more popular websites, and even books written on the
  subject, warn against using too high a percentage of c.o. because of its
  drying effects on the skin.  However, I keep the percentage of c.o. in
my
  soap between 20% and 40%, and haven't had any problems with excessively
 dry
  skin.  Common sense must also come in to play of course.  If you start
 with
  dry skin, you would definitely want to stay on lower end of those
  percentages with c.o., and increase the hydrating oils like olive, and
  settle for less foaming soap.
 
  AntiFossil
  Mike Krafka USA
 
 
  - Original Message -
  From: Phillip Wolfe [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Friday, February 11, 2005 12:21 PM
  Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Glycerine soap making
 
 
   Dear Legal Eagle,
  
   There is an industrial and commercial method of using
   refined glycerin for the manufacturing of natural
   soaps and detergents (and the harsher soaps too).
  
   As JFT advocates, there is a personal quest too -
   making your own stuff.
  
   In the industrial and commercial world there is a
   worldwide glut of glcyerin! compared to a couple
   years ago. I've been following this recently.
  
   But on the personal level, me thinks the idea of
   making homegrown soaps is pretty neat.
  
   It can be Family get together like making ice cream!
  
   Take care and good luck!
  
   --- Legal Eagle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
What to do with the copious amounts of glycerine by
product ? We can follow
through with the seperation of the components an get
a close to pure
glycerine, providing we have a market for it, or we
can use it to make soap.
JtF has a few good articles on that too.
http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_glycerin.html
I am in the process of experiementing with a couple
recipes that, I hope,
will give a fairly decent usable product. I have
used some as a body soap
and it works great, however very little foamong
action and that is a problem
in most circles, so I am trying three diffenrent
approaches.
1) 100ml water with 10gr NaOH per liter of glycerine
by product
2) 150ml water

[Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-14 Thread Doug Foskey

Hi,
 I am searching for information on making aerated concrete. For those 
interested, basically foam is added to a mortar mix, and the mortar can be up 
to double the quantity, with reduced strength, but added insulation.
 This is achieved with an organic soap (from what I have found), but I was 
wondering if anyone had seen info on using home made soap?

http://pelagic.wavyhill.xsmail.com/cellcrete_how.html is a site I found with 
a home made processor

From my search on the web, protein hydrolisation seems to be the soap/additive 
that is used for making the foam. I have not found any more info on how this 
is made though.

 Can anyone help me??

regards Doug

(I am interested in making tilt up concrete panels for a building.)
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Re: [Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-14 Thread Keith Addison



Nothing to do with soap, but do you know about this?

http://journeytoforever.org/at_woodstove-allen.html
Rice-husk stoves - Appropriate technology: Journey to Forever

This stuff is great! We're using it to build charcoal-burning stoves, 
it's an excellent insulator. Have a look at this picture:


http://journeytoforever.org/bflpics/rhahand2.jpg

Those coals are really hot!

Reduced strength, as you say, but we find that a mix of 1:3 up to 1:1 
cement to rice husk ash by weight is pretty strong, and since the RHA 
is much lighter than the cement, in fact you don't use a lot of 
cement. It's a bit like pumice or something. Doesn't weigh very much.


The rice husk burner works very well, but if you want to put it in a 
55-gal/200 litre oil drum, as we did, you'll have to make the cage 
slightly smaller.




Hi,
I am searching for information on making aerated concrete. For those
interested, basically foam is added to a mortar mix, and the mortar can be up
to double the quantity, with reduced strength, but added insulation.
This is achieved with an organic soap (from what I have found), but I was
wondering if anyone had seen info on using home made soap?

http://pelagic.wavyhill.xsmail.com/cellcrete_how.html is a site I found with
a home made processor

From my search on the web, protein hydrolisation seems to be the 
soap/additive

that is used for making the foam. I have not found any more info on how this
is made though.

Can anyone help me??

regards Doug

(I am interested in making tilt up concrete panels for a building.)


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Re: [Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-14 Thread grahams



Hi,
 I am searching for information on making aerated concrete. For those
interested, basically foam is added to a mortar mix, and the mortar can be up
to double the quantity, with reduced strength, but added insulation.
 This is achieved with an organic soap (from what I have found), but I was
wondering if anyone had seen info on using home made soap?


There are many recipes for how people make/use homemade soap for dishes. I 
would suggest you make a batch of concrete as the directions state to get 
an idea how the consistency is supposed to be at each stage and then 
experiment substituting with homemade soap -whatever recipe you decide to 
use.  Perhaps you will need to adjust your soap recipe (or quantities 
needed)  to end up with a similar outcome.


I would love to hear of your results, email me privately if you don't mind 
when you experiment.


Caroline

Caroline  


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Re: [Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-14 Thread Greg Harbican

I don't know about using soap, but, professionals make it by mixing in
aluminum chips.

The aluminum reacts with the calcium hydroxide, and produces aluminum
hydroxide and H2 gas.

Greg H.

- Original Message - 
From: Doug Foskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2005 12:52
Subject: [Biofuel] Soap  aerated concrete


Hi,
 I am searching for information on making aerated concrete. For those
interested, basically foam is added to a mortar mix, and the mortar can be
up
to double the quantity, with reduced strength, but added insulation.
 This is achieved with an organic soap (from what I have found), but I was
wondering if anyone had seen info on using home made soap?

http://pelagic.wavyhill.xsmail.com/cellcrete_how.html is a site I found
with
a home made processor

From my search on the web, protein hydrolisation seems to be the
soap/additive
that is used for making the foam. I have not found any more info on how this
is made though.

 Can anyone help me??

regards Doug

(I am interested in making tilt up concrete panels for a building.)
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Re: [Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-14 Thread Martin Klingensmith


I used Perlite mixed with refractory cement in my aluminum casting 
furnace. The walls saw temperatures surpassing 2000F, it was working 
well. The mixture was 50/50, and the perlite is very light-weight, 
reducing the overall mass of the structure.

--
Martin K

Keith Addison wrote:

Hi Doug

Nothing to do with soap, but do you know about this?

http://journeytoforever.org/at_woodstove-allen.html
Rice-husk stoves - Appropriate technology: Journey to Forever

This stuff is great! We're using it to build charcoal-burning stoves, 
it's an excellent insulator. Have a look at this picture:


http://journeytoforever.org/bflpics/rhahand2.jpg

Those coals are really hot!

Reduced strength, as you say, but we find that a mix of 1:3 up to 1:1 
cement to rice husk ash by weight is pretty strong, and since the RHA is 
much lighter than the cement, in fact you don't use a lot of cement. 
It's a bit like pumice or something. Doesn't weigh very much.


The rice husk burner works very well, but if you want to put it in a 
55-gal/200 litre oil drum, as we did, you'll have to make the cage 
slightly smaller.




Hi,
I am searching for information on making aerated concrete. For those
interested, basically foam is added to a mortar mix, and the mortar 
can be up

to double the quantity, with reduced strength, but added insulation.
This is achieved with an organic soap (from what I have found), but I was
wondering if anyone had seen info on using home made soap?

http://pelagic.wavyhill.xsmail.com/cellcrete_how.html is a site I 
found with

a home made processor

From my search on the web, protein hydrolisation seems to be the 
soap/additive
that is used for making the foam. I have not found any more info on 
how this

is made though.

Can anyone help me??

regards Doug

(I am interested in making tilt up concrete panels for a building.)



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Re: [Biofuel] Soap aerated concrete

2005-02-14 Thread Andrew Lowe



Hi,
 I am searching for information on making aerated concrete. For those 

[snip]
...
...
[snip]


 Can anyone help me??

regards Doug

(I am interested in making tilt up concrete panels for a building.)


	A word of warning - get professional advice on this ie a structural 
engineer, before you actually use it. I had some experience with this 
type of technology in the early '90's and if I remember correctly, the 
strength of the aerated concrete, is between 0.1  0.2 that of normal 
concrete - 4.5MPa Vs 20 - 40MPa. If in turn you are doing tilt-up 
construction, this lower strength could cause problems when the panels 
are tilted - unless you get your reinforcment right, the panel will snap 
when being lifted, or are you tilting the whole forming bed?


	You might want to have a look at this site, they have some info there, 
CAD drawings etc that might be of interest:


http://www.hebelaustralia.com.au/

Regards,
Andrew Lowe
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[Biofuel] Soap

2005-02-13 Thread Pieter Koole

Hi all,
The more I read the messages about soap making, the more I realize that I
don't understand the principle of soap making.
Can anybody tell me (or give a link) what exactly is saponification ? Do
only the FFA's saponify, or the total oil ?
If this saponification is well known, why isn't it possible to find out how
much lye is needed in an unknown oil (mixture) like WVO ? If somebody ever
found out
how much lye one needs to saponify (is that the right word ?) for example
olive oil, how did he or she do that ? Can't we replicate that method with a
mixture of used oils ?
Mike wrote that coconut oil could dry out the skin if used to much. Why does
it do that ? What happens ? Why doesn't olive oil do that ? Somewhere I also
read, that glycerin moisturizes the skin, but if one would use to much in
soap, it would work the other way round and dry out the skin. Why is that ?

Met  dank en vriendelijke groet,
Pieter Koole
Netherlands

- Original Message -
From: Anti-Fossil [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2005 3:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Glycerine soap making


 I have been making my own soap for about 14 years now.  The only real
 secret that I have found in regards to fantastic foaming action of your
 soaps is the inclusion of coconut oil (c.o.) in your recipe.  I am aware
 that a few of the more popular websites, and even books written on the
 subject, warn against using too high a percentage of c.o. because of its
 drying effects on the skin.  However, I keep the percentage of c.o. in my
 soap between 20% and 40%, and haven't had any problems with excessively
dry
 skin.  Common sense must also come in to play of course.  If you start
with
 dry skin, you would definitely want to stay on lower end of those
 percentages with c.o., and increase the hydrating oils like olive, and
 settle for less foaming soap.

 AntiFossil
 Mike Krafka USA


 - Original Message -
 From: Phillip Wolfe [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Friday, February 11, 2005 12:21 PM
 Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Glycerine soap making


  Dear Legal Eagle,
 
  There is an industrial and commercial method of using
  refined glycerin for the manufacturing of natural
  soaps and detergents (and the harsher soaps too).
 
  As JFT advocates, there is a personal quest too -
  making your own stuff.
 
  In the industrial and commercial world there is a
  worldwide glut of glcyerin! compared to a couple
  years ago. I've been following this recently.
 
  But on the personal level, me thinks the idea of
  making homegrown soaps is pretty neat.
 
  It can be Family get together like making ice cream!
 
  Take care and good luck!
 
  --- Legal Eagle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
   What to do with the copious amounts of glycerine by
   product ? We can follow
   through with the seperation of the components an get
   a close to pure
   glycerine, providing we have a market for it, or we
   can use it to make soap.
   JtF has a few good articles on that too.
   http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_glycerin.html
   I am in the process of experiementing with a couple
   recipes that, I hope,
   will give a fairly decent usable product. I have
   used some as a body soap
   and it works great, however very little foamong
   action and that is a problem
   in most circles, so I am trying three diffenrent
   approaches.
   1) 100ml water with 10gr NaOH per liter of glycerine
   by product
   2) 150ml water with 15gr NaOH per liter of glycerine
   by product
   30 200ml water with 20gr NaOH per liter of glycerine
   by product
  
   Firstly the methanol must be removed/recovered by
   raising the temps above
   65C (148.5F) and then the NaOH disolved into a
   little more than warm water.
   Once the glycerine has cooled a bit, to about 43C
   (110F) then mix in the
   water/NaOH while stirring for about a minute or two.
   Pour into a mold and
   let settle. How long will be subject of another post
   when I have it figured
   out :-)
   The first one has had two weeks to settle out
   anything that was going to do
   that and it did. Some gelatenous substance caked a
   portion of the hardened
   glycerine and had to be scrapped off, but the result
   was still solid bars.
   The second and third recipes are yet to be finished
   however they already
   show more potential, primarily the third which began
   solidifying almost
   immediately and shows good promise.
   I shall keep you posted as to the success/failure of
   this as we go along. No
   sense throwing away a perfectly good product if it
   can be used eh? I am
   determined that it will.
   Luc
  
  
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Re: [Biofuel] Soap

2005-02-13 Thread Appal Energy



Some definitions:
http://www.lipid.co.uk/maintest.html
http://www.snowdriftfarm.com/fatproperties2.html

A cursory explanation of saponification:
http://chemistry.about.com/library/glossary/bldef825.htm


Do
only the FFA's saponify, or the total oil ?


Presuming the amount of caustic in the reaction is sufficient to match the 
number of fatty acid carbo chains in the oil mixture, all the carbon chains 
of the tri-, di- and mono-glycerides snap off and bond with the caustic to 
make soap. If FFAs are present  in the mix (FFAs are carbon chains that have 
already been snapped off a mono-, di- or triglyceride) they immediately 
attach to the metal ion (potassium, sodium, etc.) to form soap as well.


Each carbon chain from a fat or oil molecule is a fatty acid. It's called a 
FFA when it's roaming around unattached to anything else. It's a soap when 
attached to a metal ion (potassium, sodium, calcium, magnesium, aluminum, 
etc.). It's a glyceride when a glycerol molecule is still attached to it. 
Mono-glycerides are one fatty-acid (one carbon chain) attached to a glycerol 
molecule. Di-glycerides are two fatty-acids (two carbon chains) attached to 
one glycerol molecule. Tri-glycerides are three fatty-acids (three carbon 
chains) attached to one glycerol molecule.


One thing you  need to be aware of is that all oils and fats possess 
different types of fatty acid chains in varying combinations and ratios.


An oil or fat is defined by what ratios of particular fatty acids exist 
within its entire makeup. For instance, palm oil is comprized of 
approximately 42.7% oleic fatty acids, 40.1% linoleic fatty acids, 10.3 
stearic fatty acids and 1.4 myristic fatty acids. Within that ratio, a 
single tri-glyceride of palm oil might have one myristic fatty acid (one 
myristic carbon chain), one stearic fatty acid (one stearic carbon 
chain) and one oleic fatty acid (one oleic carbon chain). The 
tri-glyceride next to it might have a completely different set of fatty 
acids or a different ratio of some of the same.


A completely different oil will have a completely different ratio of fatty 
acids. Some of those acids are largely universal in all fats and oils 
Others are found only in a specific few or perhaps single oil.


A short list of fatty acids include arachidic, behenic, capric, caproic, 
caprylic, lauric, lignoceric, linoleic, linolenic, monoethenoic, myristic, 
myristoleic, oleic, palmitic, palmitioleic, ricinoleic, stearic.


Here is a chart that gives sap values and an idea of what the saponified 
characteristics of some oils are.

http://www.tlcsoaps.com/oilsapval.htm

There are other charts out there. Just Google sap value or saponification 
chart.


If you can locate a copy of The Soapmaker's Companion, by Susan Miller 
Cavitch, published by Storey Books, you'll find most of your answers to 
soapmaking, a vast percentage of which are equally applicable to making 
biodiesel.


It's well worth the coin.

Todd Swearingen

- Original Message - 
From: Pieter Koole [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2005 1:48 PM
Subject: [Biofuel] Soap



Hi all,
The more I read the messages about soap making, the more I realize that I
don't understand the principle of soap making.
Can anybody tell me (or give a link) what exactly is saponification ? Do
only the FFA's saponify, or the total oil ?
If this saponification is well known, why isn't it possible to find out 
how

much lye is needed in an unknown oil (mixture) like WVO ? If somebody ever
found out
how much lye one needs to saponify (is that the right word ?) for example
olive oil, how did he or she do that ? Can't we replicate that method with 
a

mixture of used oils ?
Mike wrote that coconut oil could dry out the skin if used to much. Why 
does
it do that ? What happens ? Why doesn't olive oil do that ? Somewhere I 
also

read, that glycerin moisturizes the skin, but if one would use to much in
soap, it would work the other way round and dry out the skin. Why is that 
?


Met  dank en vriendelijke groet,
Pieter Koole
Netherlands

- Original Message -
From: Anti-Fossil [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2005 3:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Glycerine soap making



I have been making my own soap for about 14 years now.  The only real
secret that I have found in regards to fantastic foaming action of your
soaps is the inclusion of coconut oil (c.o.) in your recipe.  I am aware
that a few of the more popular websites, and even books written on the
subject, warn against using too high a percentage of c.o. because of its
drying effects on the skin.  However, I keep the percentage of c.o. in my
soap between 20% and 40%, and haven't had any problems with excessively

dry

skin.  Common sense must also come in to play of course.  If you start

with

dry skin, you would definitely want to stay on lower end of those
percentages with c.o., and increase the hydrating oils like olive

Re: [biofuel] Soap from KoH derived glycerine

2003-09-02 Thread Keith Addison

Hello Peter

Hi Folks,Just joined up to your group and now produce my own biofuel
using methanol and KoH, and have worked my formula down now to 160
ml of methanol and 12 grams of KoH, per liter which works for the
used soy oil that I get locally..

Do you wash your biodiesel?

However as many of you have the same problem of what to do with the
risidual glycerine, or glycerol and I would like to lightly process
the glycerol to make a nice liquid soap that I could sell back to
the resturants, as most resturants now use liquid soap.

It's not just glycerine, probably not even mostly glycerine. At that 
rate of KOH, depending on strength, you're titrating at about 5ml, 
right? Probably most of the by-product is FFA converted to soaps, 
plus glycerine, plus the catalyst, plus most of the excess methanol 
(though you don't have much of that, only 28% excess).

Using KOH, the by-product should be liquid rather than solid, as it 
can be with NaOH.

The problem is I cannot find any recipies to make a liquid, or a
hard  soap from my KoH derived glycerol..

KOH makes liquid soap.

There's a recipe here:

http://www.eline2000.com/eline/articles/barsoap/barsoap.htm
Making bar soap from glycerin

Looks like it probably works, you may have to experiment with the 
quantities recommended.

I realize that the
glycerol is dark but can't it be doctored up to make even a crude
liquid soap.??

My thinking is that by selling them back liquid soap that they would
have to buy anyway, I can offset my Methanol and KoH cost's
considerably.

Don't think I'd buy soap like that. Don't think I'd sell it either. 
Still, give it a try, tell us how you go.

Best wishes

Keith

So any idea's on a liquid or a hard soap made from KoH glycerol...???

Peter


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[biofuel] Soap from KoH derived glycerine

2003-09-01 Thread petercarlich

Hi Folks,Just joined up to your group and now produce my own biofuel 
using methanol and KoH, and have worked my formula down now to 160 
ml of methanol and 12 grams of KoH, per liter which works for the 
used soy oil that I get locally..

However as many of you have the same problem of what to do with the 
risidual glycerine, or glycerol and I would like to lightly process 
the glycerol to make a nice liquid soap that I could sell back to 
the resturants, as most resturants now use liquid soap.

The problem is I cannot find any recipies to make a liquid, or a 
hard  soap from my KoH derived glycerol.. I realize that the 
glycerol is dark but can't it be doctored up to make even a crude 
liquid soap.??

My thinking is that by selling them back liquid soap that they would 
have to buy anyway, I can offset my Methanol and KoH cost's 
considerably.  

So any idea's on a liquid or a hard soap made from KoH glycerol...???

Peter



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[biofuel] Soap Floaties in Biodiesel

2001-12-13 Thread Benjamin Alan Ramseth

Everyone,

I made some small batches of bio-diesel about a month ago.  Now when I look at 
them in the clear containers there are white floaties in the fuel which I 
believe to be soap.  Is filtering the best way to remove these particles from 
the bio-diesel?  If so what inexpensive methods would you recommend and where 
to look for the supplies to do it?

Ben


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[biofuel] soap in BD

2001-10-17 Thread Martin R.

Hi all

Made a batch of BD and after letting it sit for a while ,put the BD in the 
wash tank
and started to wash it and then went away for six hours only
to find that the soap suds had over flown and ended up all over the floor
This is the first time that this has happened to me . what happened to
my BD from this batch and how can I fix my Bubbles so they don't bubble
all over the floor again ???
I thought of reheating the BD and let it settle of a few days then scoop of 
the
top layer again  and re wash as per normal , would this work???
or is there some other trick to my BUBBLES ???

Martin R. 


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Re: [biofuel] Soap product/glycerol$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

2001-06-26 Thread Dana Linscott

Holy cow!

I just saw concentrated liquid degreaser soap for
sale at a discount store for US$4.80 a gallon! I had 
to pop the top to do a quick visual/nasal/tactile
field test and to my surprise it was so similar to the
waste product we are constantly trying to find a use
for that I think I should open up a degreaser
factory which produces biodiesel as a waste
byproduct. I am going down to the local carwash today
to see what they pay for the 50-100 gals of liquid
soap they run through each week...and how similar it
is to the stuff we are composting. Any suggestions?
Dana Linscott


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