Re: Goodrich clutch line
I did the same with the Galpher. I got a compression fitting to go inside. I think it was called a donut fitting. = Thomas and Carrie Powell 1994 NOS Tourmaster "LAFGAS" [EMAIL PROTECTED] = - Original Message - From: Frederick Wilson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2000 4:13 PM Subject: Goodrich clutch line I just finished installing a new ssteel clutch line only to find that the fitting intended to attach to the slave cylinder is not a proper match. Although the new part is externally the same as the old one, internally it is not shaped properly to mate up with the slave cylinder fitting. It looks as if a compression fitting could be missing (it would make up for the difference between the two parts). What gives? Do I have the wrong part? My Max is a 1985. Thanks, Fred Wilson . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm . . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: MSD Shift light
The MSD has three little loops that stick out of the back. Cut all three loops and then hook it up like I said. Red to switched ground, Green to one of the coils and Black to ground. Easy. Any more let me know. = Thomas and Carrie Powell 1994 NOS Tourmaster "LAFGAS" [EMAIL PROTECTED] = - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2000 5:48 PM Subject: Re: MSD Shift light Hey Thomas my question about the wires was because I don't have any instructions I have two lights left over from drag cars I've built and figured its time to put one on the bike! Any more info would be great thanks! Kurt BURKHART 2000 VEE~MAX VMOA #1159 . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm . . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Goodrich clutch line
- Original Message - It appears as if a compression fitting could be installed to take up the slack. That would be the easy way out, but I am afraid J.C. Whitney's sold me the wrong part. Fred, There is a little brass donut or o-ring looking piece that goes in there. It must have got left out/lost out of the package. You may be able to find one at a local hardware store. Henry . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Three Spokes Mag Wheels
In a message dated 6/17/00 5:39:04 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: http://www.superbikeracing.com/ Jasee,,,Thanks...Gene 1985 Max . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: BRAKING rotors
annybody know of anny diference between Braking vs EBC rotors? dave r . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Goodrich clutch line
Fred; There should be a little a 'flying saicer' looking compression brass thing that goes inside the union of the fittings where the threads are. GALFER has those as well. I'm on vacation up here in NC so I don't have their number. Cheers. Patrick Ahearn VMOA # 570 Sarasota, Florida My V-MAX Page http://home.earthlink.net/~patahearn/ Where I work http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/ClassifiedsCt/floridacars/floridacars.html - Original Message - From: Frederick Wilson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2000 1:25 AM Subject: Goodrich clutch line Fitment problems are at the slave cylinder, not the master cylinder where the crush washers are used. The threaded fitting which attaches the clutch line to the slave cylinder appears to be the same as the oem part and, in fact, has the same thread, but is not properly shaped internally to mate with the flanged fitting from the slave cylinder. It appears as if a compression fitting could be installed to take up the slack. That would be the easy way out, but I am afraid J.C. Whitney's sold me the wrong part. Is there more than one style of clutch line/slave cylinder fitting? The line is installed on a 1985 model...perhaps it was intended for a later model.Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Fred Wilson . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm . . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Goodrich clutch line
Fred; If it is a GALFER they made a bunch with the wrong threads at the slave cylinder side. It happened to mine. Call them and they'll send you the right one. If you are nice and tell them it's deadline thing they will send you one before you return the one you have. Cheers. Patrick Ahearn VMOA # 570 Sarasota, Florida My V-MAX Page http://home.earthlink.net/~patahearn/ Where I work http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/ClassifiedsCt/floridacars/floridacars.html - Original Message - From: Vern Hathaway [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2000 12:32 AM Subject: Re: Goodrich clutch line Mine fit good, did you get 2 crush washers? Vern Frederick Wilson wrote: I just finished installing a new ssteel clutch line only to find that the fitting intended to attach to the slave cylinder is not a proper match. Although the new part is externally the same as the old one, internally it is not shaped properly to mate up with the slave cylinder fitting. It looks as if a compression fitting could be missing (it would make up for the difference between the two parts). What gives? Do I have the wrong part? My Max is a 1985. Thanks, Fred Wilson . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm . . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm . . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Dyno Kote
Anyone know if the Custom Chrome Dyno kote blueing prevention kit does anything? Tom . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Back in the saddle, almost.
Mark,
The 4 pot calipers off of the newer models, ('93 up US), will not bolt
directly onto the earlier forks; an adapter is required. The front
rotors as well as the fork tubes on the newer models are larger in
diameter. The master cylinder from any model will work fine.
There have been some very nice Nissan caliper conversions done on
earlier forks ... check out the RMSportmax site, (linked from Ingo's
or from most VMOA sites).
campbell
- Original Message -
From: "Mark Averett" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Back in the saddle, almost.
snip
will newer 4 pot brake calipers bolt on in place of the old
2 pots? Does the master cylinder dia. remain the same
between years? Are the rotors the same dia. and
thickness?
snip
.
To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm
.
Re: Dyno Testing
Rey, that's great info! you can also go to www.factorypro.com if you want to find out somemore about the eddy current dyno thing. seems they've been doing it for some time now. steve #1131 From: "Rey Kirkman" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Dyno Testing Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 21:15:59 -0700 There are dynos and there are other dynos. Received today a Buell magazine called Battle 2 Win. (I also have a Buell), which interviewed Gary Valine, who is runs Buell's special project dyno. There is a comparatively recent dyno development to the the Dynojet dyno. Dynojet dynos are relatively simple. Most of you know that the motorcycle drives a drum and the dyno's computer calculates hosepower and torque as the drum rotates. The recent development to the Dynojet dynamometer is an "Eddy Current Brake", which, according to Valine, is a Godsend in doing steady-state developemnt work. "The standard dyno is limited in that you can only do acceleration to full throttle runs because once you reach a steady state , the power required to keep the drum rolling is a fraction of that needed to accelerate it. And this is fine if what you're looking for is a horsepower and torque curve. However, if you'd like to tune and develop a motor at give rpm settings... a standard dyno won't help you. That's where the eddy current brake comes in. Think of it as a very large disc brake attached to the dyno's drum. But instead of being acted upon by friction pads, its rate of turn is controlled by large adjacent electric magnets. As the dyno operator increases the current flow to these magnets, the magnetic force - the eddy currents they procuce are also increased, retarding the speed of the brake and, consequently the drum. Let's say you want to tune the motor at 3000 rpm. Without the eddy brake, once you reach that figure, maintaining it would take only a fraction of a horsepoower... virturally no load on the motor. However, with the eddy brake, the operator can 'load' the motor to a point where it's tricked into thinking it's acelerating, the same as if it were being ridden on the street but, in our example, it is being held at 3000 rpm. Being able to do this allows the dyno operator to determine optimal ignition and fuel settings." Another tip to assure that your dyno readings are accurate and repeatable is to run your motor normally to operating temperature. Then, turn it off for fifteen minutes before begining the dyno run. The waiting period allows heat to permeate throughout the motor. Rey Kirkman VMOA #439 . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm . Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
V-max Starters
Thanks for the info on the 84 up Virago short sissy bars working on the V-max backrest. My 85 V-max has + - 12.5 compression and is hard to start, (no shit). I just bought a new battery last week 260 cca and it seems to work marginal. Luckily my bike will start hot if it turns over 1 time. Also I love the workout roll starting it. It is my understanding that the 94-2000 V-max starter has 4 brushes and is better. How much of a difference will this make for my application? What is the price, Used, Retail or Mail order? Will there be any problems bolting up? THANKS, Paul VMOA 1141. . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Dyno Testing
I hear that the Eddie current dyno's are very hard to calibrate. My friend Jim had his highly modified ZL1000 tuned on one. He said the operator could only do 6th gear roll on's and NOT AG's (all gear). How are you supposed to get main jetting close without AG's? Unless the dyno operator doesn't have a clue? More shops have the dynojet. Also, you can download Dynojet's "PEP" viewer and look at the dyno runs you have done with the same desktop as the Dyno operator's PEP4 software. This is were I stare at mine to figure things out until 4 in the morning.. Stan #843 steven detamore wrote: Rey, that's great info! you can also go to www.factorypro.com if you want to find out somemore about the eddy current dyno thing. seems they've been doing it for some time now. steve #1131 From: "Rey Kirkman" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Dyno Testing Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 21:15:59 -0700 There are dynos and there are other dynos. Received today a Buell magazine called Battle 2 Win. (I also have a Buell), which interviewed Gary Valine, who is runs Buell's special project dyno. There is a comparatively recent dyno development to the the Dynojet dyno. Dynojet dynos are relatively simple. Most of you know that the motorcycle drives a drum and the dyno's computer calculates hosepower and torque as the drum rotates. The recent development to the Dynojet dynamometer is an "Eddy Current Brake", which, according to Valine, is a Godsend in doing steady-state developemnt work. "The standard dyno is limited in that you can only do acceleration to full throttle runs because once you reach a steady state , the power required to keep the drum rolling is a fraction of that needed to accelerate it. And this is fine if what you're looking for is a horsepower and torque curve. However, if you'd like to tune and develop a motor at give rpm settings... a standard dyno won't help you. That's where the eddy current brake comes in. Think of it as a very large disc brake attached to the dyno's drum. But instead of being acted upon by friction pads, its rate of turn is controlled by large adjacent electric magnets. As the dyno operator increases the current flow to these magnets, the magnetic force - the eddy currents they procuce are also increased, retarding the speed of the brake and, consequently the drum. Let's say you want to tune the motor at 3000 rpm. Without the eddy brake, once you reach that figure, maintaining it would take only a fraction of a horsepoower... virturally no load on the motor. However, with the eddy brake, the operator can 'load' the motor to a point where it's tricked into thinking it's acelerating, the same as if it were being ridden on the street but, in our example, it is being held at 3000 rpm. Being able to do this allows the dyno operator to determine optimal ignition and fuel settings." Another tip to assure that your dyno readings are accurate and repeatable is to run your motor normally to operating temperature. Then, turn it off for fifteen minutes before begining the dyno run. The waiting period allows heat to permeate throughout the motor. Rey Kirkman VMOA #439 . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm . Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm . . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Goodrich clutch line
Tom got a number for Ernie??? . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Goodrich clutch line
should be on the tech list products page under Wurlitzer . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
solid mount install
Hi Charles, I was on vacation last week. I won't reiterate what larry already wrote. The instructions will make more sense when you are actually looking at the bike. If you have any questions at all let me know. Mike I installed the same mounts as Mike Lesicko (nicely manufactured by Scott McKelvey BTW) so perhaps I can clarify some things. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: When he states"ALSO LOOSEN TOP BANDS UNDER ALL 4 CARBS" does that mean I have to remove the carbs? and if not, why loosen them? No..just loosen the band clamps to allow removal of the air box. We're freeing up space so we can "move" the engine around. In point 3 you loosen the radiator and you pull forward, but how much? Is it supposed to just stay there hanging or what? Do you slacken the hose clamps at all? Just remove the mounting bolts and allow the hoses to support itit will spring forward and you can support it with a tie-wrap. I understand that all exhaust pipes have to be removed from the cylinder heads completely, but do you need new gaskets to replace the used ones? I purchased new onesyou might get lucky by turning them 180 degrees. An exhaust leak would be unpleasant after all this effort, though. "Twist and pull out lower left rubber mount"... the original mounts as far as I understand are made from two bushings with rubber solidly attached to them and the outer bushing should normally have a very tight fit on its housing, so how on earth can you just twist and pull them off? should you use a special extractor? I need to know before I embark myself in this ordeal. The original mounts are a steel tube encased in rubber. They will pull right out of the frame with minimal effort. "Use a pry bar to help move the engine around!! Slowly raise jack up, watch U-joint it will need to be turned so it hits the gas tank at an angle that will allow engine to be raised enough to pull old mount out. You may need to remove the U-joint". Three doubts here, move the engine around and You might need to remove the U-joint Could someone explain what moving the engine around means and the U-joint, is this the axle attaching the shaft to the engine output drive? and turned so it hits the gas tank, I need a bit more explaining. One thing is clear, when I do this mod I will take pictures of each step so someone else can benefit from my experience, the same way I use Mike's information right now. The rear mounts are the b*tch...You have to get the engine high enough so you can clear the tabs on the frame to remove the "old" and insert the sold mounts. The universal joint can be turned so that the motor can be lifted higher. I ended up loosening the gas tank to get the extra height...I wasn't comfortable removing the universal. joint.You need to "move" the engine around with prybars because you need to have the rear mounts drop in "together". You have to get both mounts lined up at same time. It's an extremely tight fit and you can't cheat by getting one side at a time. Also remember to pull the rubber plug on the swingarm when re-installing it. It will help you align the splines. Finally I would like more in detail what opinion you have (all that have done the modification ) about vibration and how you overcame it, mirror buzz, hands becoming numb after a long ride, feel the tingle on your feet and any other comments you care to have. Regarding high speed handling I have no doubts it will improve in a big manner. Just thinking about how it will lock the huge square motor cage, making the engine part of the frame, I'm sure it will be worth it. I would agree with the comments of Mike and Paulthe slight increase in vibration is only noticeable on the first ride. It's not an issue for me anymore. No regrets. Hope this helps, Charles. It's a lot of work...but I am certainly glad I did it. Best of luck!Regards,LarryVMOA#114 __ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/ . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
RE: Carb tuning with Mark's exhaust
Chris: I have also ordered a set from Mark. How was the installation?? Have you opened it yet and how do they sound?? Wayne H Pettipas Tel 613-596-9473 Fax 613-596-9969 E [EMAIL PROTECTED] VMOA--#1266 I just installed the Mark's Performance dual exhaust on a stock motor and would like to know from the others that have it what changes were necessary to the carbs for optimum A/F ratio. I ended up with 157 main jets(Mikuni), 3rd groove down on the needles and 3 turns out on the idle mixture screws. YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
CV Carb's can't get it right
Have made countless carb changes and can't get it right. FRUSTRATION! The mid-range circuit seems to studder (like a race car waiting to leave the line) when I roll the throttle wide open under 3k rpm's. The studder is throught the 5-6k rpm's and clears up at 7k and above. If I gradually open the throttle the bike will run well throughout the entire range.. Problem is only encountered when I wack it open. I have completely disassembled the carbs and found them to be very clean. No evidence of varnish or crud. I tried a bunch of mains, and moved the needle without sucess. Any thoughts. Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
No Subject
To the tech list: I want to remove the centre stand for a mod I have been considering. How does one get it off?? Is there a potential problem with the spring?? If my mod works I'll post it. Regards Wayne Wayne H Pettipas Tel 613-596-9473 Fax 613-596-9969 E [EMAIL PROTECTED] VMOA--#1266 winmail.dat
Volts, Amps, Watts?
Hey, you guys would not know the relationship with volts , amps, and watts. If my Air Force tec, school serves me I beleave it's: (Amps)X(Volts)=(Watts) Is this correct? I am trying to run duel stock headlights on that street fighter unit I built and want to know is the Gen/Fuse can handle the load. Thanks Again Kraig The "P-51" Long Range Max . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: (no subject)
Wayne remove the two bolts, one on each side. You can get the spring off easier then. Don "Old Man" Smith . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: V-max / Virago Short Sissy Bar
I'm told the Maxim bar works also and matches the brushed look of the Max. I haven't seen one to verify this though. Vern I have the Maxim on my 91. It is brushed aluninum, looks like stock, and bolts right on. Jerald Whit, VMOA #21, "Velocitas et Postestas." . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Goodrich clutch line
1-800-982-9367 He and many others are on Paul's website. Check them out. = Thomas and Carrie Powell 1994 NOS Tourmaster "LAFGAS" [EMAIL PROTECTED] = - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2000 3:48 AM Subject: Re: Goodrich clutch line Tom got a number for Ernie??? . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm . . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: CV Carb's can't get it right
Need more info.mods to bike.jets you have in now..Main/PAJ1/PAJ2/jet kit??? = Thomas and Carrie Powell 1994 NOS Tourmaster "LAFGAS" [EMAIL PROTECTED] = - Original Message - From: louis churukian [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2000 6:17 AM Subject: CV Carb's can't get it right Have made countless carb changes and can't get it right. FRUSTRATION! The mid-range circuit seems to studder (like a race car waiting to leave the line) when I roll the throttle wide open under 3k rpm's. The studder is throught the 5-6k rpm's and clears up at 7k and above. If I gradually open the throttle the bike will run well throughout the entire range.. Problem is only encountered when I wack it open. I have completely disassembled the carbs and found them to be very clean. No evidence of varnish or crud. I tried a bunch of mains, and moved the needle without sucess. Any thoughts. Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm . . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
READ THIS!!NEW POLICY
THE TECH LIST HAS A NEW POLICY! After being gone for a week and reading the posted mail, it appears some people just don't get it. THIS IS A MECHANICAL\TECH RELATED MAIL LIST !! Not a place for B.S. Those who violate the list policies at http://www.sayegh.org/V-Max_list_policy.htm will be immediately removed from the Tech list, their e-mail blocked from our server and no re-subscription will be allowed. No "last chance" warnings will be given. I apologize for such strict enforcement measures but they seem to be the only cure. There are other mail lists that are for "chatting" (or you can start your own). Please remember to: 1. Keep your discussions mechanical\technical related 2. Change the SUBJECT title when appropriate. 3. Don't post "Thanks" or "me too" messages (do it privately) 4. "Snip" or delete non related text out of messages you are replying to. 5. If your comments are only for one person, e-mail them privately. However if it would be of interest to many on the list, please post it. 6. No VMOA politics 7. No HTML formatted messages. 8. Read the archives and web site for info before asking a question. Let's keep this list informative and not a burden to read. Thanks! -- === Paul Sayegh V-Max Technical List Administrator VMOA Northwest Director V-Max web page http://www.sayegh.org/tips.htm === . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Back in the saddle, almost.
TC wrote: Mark, The master cylinder from any model will work fine. But a Nissin master cylinder will do the job 3 times better.. There have been some very nice Nissan caliper conversions done on earlier forks ... Nissan is a fine car, but the calipers are called NISSIN, and yes, they come in 4 piston configuration, the TOKICOS came in 4 and 6 piston calipers, but the NISSIN are more reliable and dissipate heat a lot better. check out the RMSportmax site, (linked from Ingo's or from most VMOA sites). I did the conversion on my bike (to the Nissin 4 pot) about 2 1/2 years ago, (I think it was the first one ever done) and the adapters were made by John Ganey at PCW (a piece of art!) The brakes showed A LOT of improvement, but after I fitted the Nissin master cylinder, (from a Honda 900RR, also) it didn't develop the full potential, it has now, it is absolutely AWESOME, it brakes, it trails and it feels like Superbike brakes. Mario . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Shock Spring Swap
I plan to install the chromed springs off my '87 on a pair of '98 (black spring) shocks. Aside from needing a spring compressor, are there any "dos" or "don'ts" involved with the dismantling/reassembly process that I should know about? Thanks, Jacques . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Volts, Amps, Watts?
Kraig, Yes ... your formula is correct ... campbell - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Volts, Amps, Watts? snip (Amps)X(Volts)=(Watts) Is this correct? . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Dyno Testing
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I hear that the Eddie current dyno's are very hard to calibrate. We have adopted several types of Eddie Current procedures to check the product in the company that I work for, and they have been nothing, but a pain in the ass... Mario . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: CV Carb's can't get it right
Louis, any kit stuff? what jets in which positions, what needles, what filter/airbox config., what carb float level? could be wrong but (since it's trouble when asking for power) and it will clear when you go easier on it, sounds like RICH. i suspect uneven and high floats as primary cause and make sure your sync. is dead on. go to atleast 16mm down from slide center if you still have a little of this prob. go to 17mm. i thrashed around with this for a month lately and nailed it just that easy. steve #1131 From: "louis churukian" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: CV Carb's can't get it right Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 09:17:48 PDT Have made countless carb changes and can't get it right. FRUSTRATION! The mid-range circuit seems to studder (like a race car waiting to leave the line) when I roll the throttle wide open under 3k rpm's. The studder is throught the 5-6k rpm's and clears up at 7k and above. If I gradually open the throttle the bike will run well throughout the entire range.. Problem is only encountered when I wack it open. I have completely disassembled the carbs and found them to be very clean. No evidence of varnish or crud. I tried a bunch of mains, and moved the needle without sucess. Any thoughts. Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm . Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: centerstand
Wayne, tell us what you're up to, it may have been tried with poss./neg. results and may save you the trouble. steve #1131 From: "Wayne H Pettipas" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 12:32:00 -0400 To the tech list: I want to remove the centre stand for a mod I have been considering. How does one get it off?? Is there a potential problem with the spring?? If my mod works I'll post it. Regards Wayne Wayne H Pettipas Tel 613-596-9473 Fax 613-596-9969 E [EMAIL PROTECTED] VMOA--#1266 winmail.dat Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: CV Carb's can't get it right
I don't want to feel like I'm misleading you. The bike has ram air intake, 168 mj and 42 sj. Factory Pro jet kit and an Ontario 4 into 1 race pipe. Didn't figure this would help much because it's on my CBR not my Max. From: "steven detamore" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: CV Carb's can't get it right Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 13:34:11 EST Louis, any kit stuff? what jets in which positions, what needles, what filter/airbox config., what carb float level? could be wrong but (since it's trouble when asking for power) and it will clear when you go easier on it, sounds like RICH. i suspect uneven and high floats as primary cause and make sure your sync. is dead on. go to atleast 16mm down from slide center if you still have a little of this prob. go to 17mm. i thrashed around with this for a month lately and nailed it just that easy. steve #1131 From: "louis churukian" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: CV Carb's can't get it right Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 09:17:48 PDT Have made countless carb changes and can't get it right. FRUSTRATION! The mid-range circuit seems to studder (like a race car waiting to leave the line) when I roll the throttle wide open under 3k rpm's. The studder is throught the 5-6k rpm's and clears up at 7k and above. If I gradually open the throttle the bike will run well throughout the entire range.. Problem is only encountered when I wack it open. I have completely disassembled the carbs and found them to be very clean. No evidence of varnish or crud. I tried a bunch of mains, and moved the needle without sucess. Any thoughts. Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm . Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm . Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Ignition questions
Have any of you advanced the base timing by rotatiing the pickups or by manipulating the CD box with additional circuitry? If so, did the motor respond if you had it dynoed? Also, MSD makes a 2 channel multispark ignition amplifier(MC-3). Anybody out there hooked up 2 of these to their MAX? YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: CV Carb's can't get it right
on 6/18/00 10:17 AM, louis churukian at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Have made countless carb changes and can't get it right. FRUSTRATION! The mid-range circuit seems to studder (like a race car waiting to leave the line) when I roll the throttle wide open under 3k rpm's. The studder is throught the 5-6k rpm's and clears up at 7k and above. If I gradually open the throttle the bike will run well throughout the entire range.. Problem is only encountered when I wack it open. I have completely disassembled the carbs and found them to be very clean. No evidence of varnish or crud. I tried a bunch of mains, and moved the needle without sucess. Any thoughts. While there's way too little info, my first guess is pilot circuits and slide springs, rather than mains. Since it sounds like you've played with the mains, but don't say anything about the pilots, you might try there. Also, some of the symptoms seem to indicate the slide springs might be off, either too soft or too hard for the rest of your setup. Have you tried pulling your plugs immediately after full throttle acceleration? (Wait for the bike to stop, though.. ;-)..) Don't let the bike idle, though. Hit the kill switch and close the throttle, coast to a stop and pull the plugs. That'll tell you what's happening during the weirdness, rather than what your idle circuits are like. best, Sat Tara . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Ignition questions
on 6/18/00 2:13 PM, Christopher G. Merring at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Have any of you advanced the base timing by rotatiing the pickups or by manipulating the CD box with additional circuitry? If so, did the motor respond if you had it dynoed? snip Check out TC's http://tcamp30.home.pipeline.com/ It describes a manual ignition advance circuit. best, Sat Tara . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: CV Carb's can't get it right
Louis, I guess the ram air is aftermarket. Does the kit include attaching the vent hoses to the air box? You need to pressurize both sides of the carbs, same as a turbo. Otherwise no go. Don "Old Man" Smith . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Ignition questions
Chris, Doug Nelson had this setup on his suprecharged bike for quite awhile before he converted to a late model ignition. Those MSD boxes are heavy and take alot of room. Don "Old Man" Smith . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
centerstand modification
Wayne, This makes perfect sense. I also suspect you might be having a hard time getting the bolts out if you have a stock exhaust. Assuming you somehow get the bolts out ... why not simply remove the entire stand and reattach it when you need it ?? (you don't need the spring if you are going to take it back off when you are through). This would allow you to dump some weight. campbell - Original Message - From: "Wayne H Pettipas" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: centerstand What I was thinking was to remove only the leg of the centre stand that sticks up. snip the leg could be removed and easily reinserted if one wanted to put the bike up on the stand. . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Ignition questions
You want more advance? Consider using the Venture ignitor box (no one has tried it yet to my knowledge). Ignition advance on the Venture is all in by 5000 rpm vs. the Max which takes until 9000 rpm to complete its advance. Also, check out TC's page for a cheap method of fooling the vacuum retard system. Rey Kirkman - Original Message - From: Christopher G. Merring [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2000 1:13 PM Subject: Ignition questions Have any of you advanced the base timing by rotatiing the pickups or by manipulating the CD box with additional circuitry? If so, did the motor respond if you had it dynoed? Also, MSD makes a 2 channel multispark ignition amplifier(MC-3). Anybody out there hooked up 2 of these to their MAX? YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm . . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Ignition questions
Rey, your right about the advance. Doug also had a adjustable flywheel to retard timing. A max motor has too much total advance on earlier models and reduced it on the later ignitions. Don "Old Man" Smith . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
no 1st gear
come on you guys, hook a brother up. Don,TC,Mario,Paul S., anybody and everybody, please let me know if you have any knowledge or experience with this thing. shift linkage does not proceed past nuetral to 1st, everywhere else is free and crisp. thanks for ANY replysteve #1131 Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Ignition questions for TC
TC, have you tried this Venture box in comparison to the stock V-Max item? Sam Blumenstein #795 Rey Kirkman wrote: You want more advance? Consider using the Venture ignitor box (no one has tried it yet to my knowledge). Ignition advance on the Venture is all in by 5000 rpm vs. the Max which takes until 9000 rpm to complete its advance. Also, check out TC's page for a cheap method of fooling the vacuum retard system. Rey Kirkman . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Volts, Amps, Watts?
Wforest (Whats your name) is correct. The actaul formula is P=I x V (or) I squared x R which is for a DC circuit only. P = power or Wattage, I = current or amperage,V = voltage At the point in the circuit you are dealing with the basic formula should work for determining a load factor for bulbs. Just remember that the headlights share that circuit with several other components.Bob H "The Wild Cherry Max" - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2000 5:02 PM Subject: Re: Volts, Amps, Watts? Only in DC current and not always... - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2000 1:03 PM Subject: Volts, Amps, Watts? . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: no 1st gear
This might be a dumb question, but, have you reversed your shift pattern? one-up, five-down. Kraig The "P-51" Long Range Max . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: no 1st gear
Steve, seems like awhile back someone else had a similar problem. In the tranny you have a drum that rotates, there are pins in the side that a lever with a fork push against to change gears. It has happened where the pins have came out and no shifting occurs. Possible one has came out preventing 1st gear engagement. You can inspect this without having to pull the motor. You might want to drain the oil first, you loose a little when taking the clutch cover off. Don "Old Man" Smith . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Volts, Amps, Watts?
I thought that the headlight itself has its own fuse? That is what the owner's manuel states. Again please correct me if I am wrong. Kraig The "P-51" Long Range Max . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: no 1st gear
Kraig, no, stock pattern. 1 down and 4 up. never had any problem before and no i wasn't power shifting it. thanks alot for the answer.steve #1131 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: no 1st gear Date: Sun Jun 18 18:07:42 2000 This might be a dumb question, but, have you reversed your shift pattern? one-up, five-down. Kraig The "P-51" Long Range Max . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm . Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: no 1st gear
Don, thanks for the reply. do i go in past the actual clutch basket, or the other side where the shift linkage exits? steve #1131 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (donald smith) Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: no 1st gear Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 17:10:23 -0500 (CDT) Steve, seems like awhile back someone else had a similar problem. In the tranny you have a drum that rotates, there are pins in the side that a lever with a fork push against to change gears. It has happened where the pins have came out and no shifting occurs. Possible one has came out preventing 1st gear engagement. You can inspect this without having to pull the motor. You might want to drain the oil first, you loose a little when taking the clutch cover off. Don "Old Man" Smith . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm . Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Headlamp Fuse
Kraig, I have a '93 ... and of course I have a headlamp switch ... (my '67 BSA had one so everything else gets one too). Since this was a '93 and there was a nice schematic in my manual for the E/EC model .. I believed it and wired my switch in-line with the "HEAD" fuse. If you check out this schematic you will see that the only thing it is "supposed" to power is the headlamp ... and also the "hi beam" lamp which is bridged onto the high beam filament lead. Well ... it wasn't a big shocker but the schematic is not accurate. I determined that by "removing" the fuse ... the headlamp will extinguish but so will the backlight lamps for the instrument console, (which are supposed to be served by the "SIGNAL" fuse). It is not a big deal to determine if your bike is wired in the same manner remove the "HEAD" fuse and see what doesn't light anymore. If your works in a similar fashion and it really bothers you ... then break the "brown" wire chain heading into the instrument console and put it back on the "SIGNAL" chain. campbell - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Volts, Amps, Watts? I thought that the headlight itself has its own fuse? That is what the owner's manuel states. Again please correct me if I am wrong. Kraig . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: no 1st gear
Steve, right behind the basket. Don "Old Man" Smith . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
no 1st gear
Steve, Weird things always happen to you ... sigh ... I think the very best picture of the shift forks and the "pins" that Don is referring to is on the parts microfiche at HLSM. Of course the shift cam actually makes the forks move in the correct direction to manipulate the gears and each fork has a little leg that runs in it's respective track on the shift cam. It sounds like the "little" fork may have lost it's guide pin and longer cares what the shift cam is doing ... I am assuming that when you push "down" on the lever past neutral that the lever does actually move. Of course if the little snap pins that Don is referring to have done something bad then I don't think you would be able to move the shift cam past a certain point ... so ... either condition sounds like it could cause the situation you are describing. Anyhow .. take a good look at these pictures .. they reveal much more that the manual. campbell . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Headlamp Fuse
Thanks! I am a elec. teck. in the Air Force and I never thought of pulling the fuse to see what goes out, adding up the watts, and seeing how much the fuse can take. It's either a 12Amps = 144W or a 15Amp Fuse = 180W. Thanks Kraig The "P-51" Long Range Max . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: no 1st gear
TC, thanks for the reply. been to the hlsm micro pic and see what we're talking about. the fact of the matter is that the shift linkage DOES NOT move atall toward the 1st gear possition from neutral. so i guess the pin is out of place. which is the subject of PeterRichards note about this from the archieve.(for some reason, back when he posted it i thought it was important enough to copy into my hard file. so it's not always BAD just frustrating. well now i know what to do next. thanks to everyone that answeredsteve #1131 From: "TC" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: no 1st gear Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 16:07:47 -0700 Steve, Weird things always happen to you ... sigh ... I think the very best picture of the shift forks and the "pins" that Don is referring to is on the parts microfiche at HLSM. Of course the shift cam actually makes the forks move in the correct direction to manipulate the gears and each fork has a little leg that runs in it's respective track on the shift cam. It sounds like the "little" fork may have lost it's guide pin and longer cares what the shift cam is doing ... I am assuming that when you push "down" on the lever past neutral that the lever does actually move. Of course if the little snap pins that Don is referring to have done something bad then I don't think you would be able to move the shift cam past a certain point ... so ... either condition sounds like it could cause the situation you are describing. Anyhow .. take a good look at these pictures .. they reveal much more that the manual. campbell . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm . Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Ignition questions for TC
Sam, N ... I haven't tried the Venture ignitor. I have an extra late model Vmax ignitor that has never been out of it's wrapper already so I am trying to keep my inventory in check. I have cut back to 5% on my "resistor" advance circuit though ... in order to stay closer to 35 degrees at the top. Of course "any" vacuum advance "fooling" that you do with the resistor bridge will give you more advance earlier in the RPM range than you would have see otherwise with heavy throttle. I would also like to note that I visited the "Factory" web site and was reading some "testimonials" in regard to some of the mechanical advancers that they sell for several different models of sport bikes. They point out that you may lose 1-2 hp on some of their kits with too much advance at the top of the RPM band. Otherwise .. they noted that "no" one could see any difference with the extra advance on an inertia dyno .. despite everyone claiming that it was great for coming out of corners etc .. s I still regard this modification as more of a driveablity thing and not something to aid top end dyno hp unless you are dealing with a special fuel like VP Red etc . I have been in such awe after the pilot jet changeout that I am still getting used to the new feel and watching closely to make sure everything really is OK ... I have also been trying to "inch" back up on the air jets to see how much of my gas economy I can get back without spoiling the fun. This has suspended other "things" for the time being ... I want to make sure I have done a "good" thing before fooling with anything else. campbell - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Ignition questions for TC TC, have you tried this Venture box in comparison to the stock V-Max item? Sam Blumenstein #795 . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: no 1st gear
Steve, do you get a "click" when trying to downshifting from second to first directly? If not, you might want to tighten-up the external shift linkage before taking things apart. Jacques -- From: steven detamore [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: no 1st gear Date: Sunday, June 18, 2000 5:50 PM please let me know if you have any knowledge or experience with this thing. Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm . . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: Headlamp Fuse
TC-Kraig Yes, this is what I was talking about.Also the starter shutoff circuit dims the headlight,shuts off the fuel pump and lights the panel lights up like a christmas tree.I'm going to have to get the schematic out to see why but that is like the elusive RMP limiter.It's there and in the manual but to try and trace it out is almost impossible.As far as headlights are concerned you can run (2) 55 watt halogen bulbs with no problem.Bob H "The Wild Cherry Max" - Original Message - From: TC [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: V-MAX TECH LIST [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2000 6:47 PM Subject: Headlamp Fuse Bob said Circuits connected to the head lamp. Campbell saidSee what doesn't work. remove the "HEAD" fuse and see what doesn't light anymore. If your works in a similar fashion and it really bothers you ... then break the "brown" wire chain heading into the instrument console and put it back on the "SIGNAL" chain. campbell . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
looking 4 k591
hello all, i was told that someone on the tech list posted a set of K591s for sale. if they are still available please contact me privately thank you Mike 863 . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
list
Back from Laconia, back on the List. Tyler Pennock, # 380 V max Owners Association Eastern-Canada Director 1987 V max 1260 Ottawa,ON,Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Re: no 1st gear
I've had the same problem only I couldn't get past 3rd or 4th. It turned out to be the pins in the shift drum like Don says. I was able to replace the ones that fell out and I was good to go. According to John Gainey at PCW, Yamaha beefed it up in '96 up. I have one in my Tourmaster but I can't see the difference. Vern steven detamore wrote: Hi guys, well ifinally got my engine allsorted and went out riding this morning. after leaving the house ,i went serveral blocks to the hiway(no problems) and when i came back to town went to drop to 1st at a stop sign and NOTHING under nuetral. it will shift up from there fine and go from second to nuetral but when i try to go to 1st the linkage don't move. is this the '85 tranny prob. everyone talks about? can someone give my a pointer on what to open up and look at? thankssteve #1131 Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm . . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
Shimming needles
I was going to shim my needles with .020 in. washer, but I have two tabs under my white nylon holder. One looks like an alignment tit and the other is flatter. Should I trim my washer around those obstacles? Or remove them? . To unsubscribe go to http://www.sayegh.org/unsubscribe.htm .
